Part 6

The name, however, is pure Saxon, like the German Kalt Herberg, and the surviving French Auberge for a small place of rest and refreshment. Mr. Unthank, a friend and church-worker of mine in Walworth, enlisted my interest in the name a dozen years ago, and since he has written learnedly on the subject in _Notes and Queries_ (1914) and the _Home Counties Magazine_ (1912). He calls them “the leanest shadows of our cheerful inns,” and though bare walls and a bit of a roof would be better than nothing to a traveller over Barham Downs, yet, compared with the “warmest welcome in an inn” experienced elsewhere, he would no doubt call it a cold harbour. Later, and in Middle English, the Heribeorg, shelter for a host, became as Herberg a synonym for any inn, and later still Harbourers or harbingers were the caterers or victuallers, who at last gained the right to sell ale in competition with the more normal hostelries. Then the trade-name became a surname, and John le Herberger appears, and perhaps the Harpers of to-day indicate an innkeeper rather than a musician as their ancestor.

Of course, the perverse ingenuity of some has invented strange derivations for the name. Stow suggests that they were coal-stations! Another writer (who apparently only knew of one Cold Harbour near London Bridge) that it was where the Köln or Cologne merchants had their headquarters! Another derives from Col (ubris) arbor—the tree or staff round which a serpent twines. This is the emblem of Mercury the messenger of Jupiter, and may have been therefore the sign of the Roman posting-stations!

Anderida.

As I have already said, Kent was once mainly either dense primæval forest, or marshland, which fringed nearly all its coastal border from Sussex to London. The greater part of the forest was that which extended along the northern border of the South Saxons with a breadth of thirty and a length of one hundred and twenty miles. But the royal forest of Blean (in which I was born) is continuous with Anderida, although it bears a separate name in a charter of King Offa in 791. This would make the forestal land extend from Whitstable through East and Mid Kent, Northern Sussex, Southern Surrey, and Eastern Hampshire, right down to Petersfield. Distinct, but contiguous, was the Cestmwarowalth or Cestersetta Wald, of which part remains in the woods between Rochester and Maidstone, although some would place it near Lyminge.

This primæval forest is still marked by a great survival of woodland and parks, as a coloured map of Kent would show, and also by the abundance of the characteristic terminations of burst, den, ley, holt, and feld. It names the Weald (Teutonic Wad—wood), although therein more cleared than anywhere else, and the less known Roman road, Well Street, which ran through it from Maidstone, should be probably the Wald road.

Generally called Anderida from the name the Romans gave to their fort and garrisoned place near Pevensey, this is only a change from the earlier Andred. Coed-Andred was its Celtic name, from Coed, a wood, which word appears also in Ked Coed (the hollow dolman in the wood), which was corrupted into Kits Coty House; while the Cotswolds give the Saxon addition to the Celtic name, so that the meaning is Wood-wood, just as Durbeck or the Ravensbourne mean Water-water by the Saxon surnaming of a Celtic name. In early Saxon charters, which are written in Latin, it appears as Saltus-Andred, Silva-Andred, Saltus communis, or Silva regalis, while in Saxon it is Andred, Andredsleage, or Andredsweald.

As to the meaning of the name, Edwards thinks it a proper name, which is very improbable considering its extent. Lambarde says Andred in the Celtic means great, which is simplest and best, provided that such a word is proved to exist. Dr. Guest refers it, less probably, to a Celtic negative an and dred, a dwelling, and Lewin to “an” for the “deni,” for oak-forest, and by a “dhu” for black.

It may be here interesting to give a list of the names borne nearly a thousand years ago by some towns and villages in Kent, especially those in the Weald. In a map in Furley’s _Weald_, he gives the manors and places mentioned in the Domesday Book (A.D. 1086), and by this it appears that settlements and cultivation were nearly all on the north and east edges of the great forest of Anderida. The only exceptions are Tivedale (now Tudely), Benindene (Benenden), Tepindene (Tiffenden), and Belicedene, which are deeper in the forest.

Taking the line of the Kentish Weald from west to east, we find fringing the primæval wood, Distreham (Westerham), Briestede (Brasted), Sondresse (Sundridge), Brotenham (Wrotham), Nargourde (Mereworth), Pecheham (W. Peckham), Pecheham (East Peckham), Otringebury (Wateringbury), Nedstede (Nettlestead), Hallinges (Yalding), Meddestane (Maidstone), Boltone Monchensei (Boughton Monchelsea), Certh (Chart Sutton), Suttone (Sutton Valence), Sudtone (East Sutton), Olecumbe (Ulcombe), Boltone Archiepiscopi (B. Malherbe), Bogelei (Bewley in B. Malherbe), Piventone (Pevington), Pluckelei (Pluckley), Rotinge (Roting in Pluckley), Litecert (Little Chart), Certh Mill, Certh (Great Chart), Eshetesford or Estefort (Ashford), Merseham (Mersham), Aldingtone (Aldington), Limes (Lymne), Boningtone (Bonnington), Bilsvitone (Bilsington), Rochinges (Ruckinge), Orleverstone (Orleston), Werahorne (Warehorne), Tintintone Dene (Tinton in Warehorne), Apeldres (Appledore), Palestre (Palster in Wittersham), Newedene (Newenden).

In the rest of Chenth (Kent) the chief places mentioned in Domesday were Bromlei (Bromley), Lolingstone (Lullingstone), Tarenteforte (Dartford), Gravesham (Gravesend), Rovescestre (Rochester), Esledes (Leeds), Scapige (Sheppey), Favershant (Faversham), Wi (Wye), Goversham (Godmersham), Cantuaria (Canterbury), Forewic (Fordwich), Roculf (Reculver), Tanet (Thanet), Sandwice (Sandwich), Estrei (Eastry), Addelam (Deal), Douere (Dover), Fulchestan (Folkestone), Heda (Hythe), and Romene (Romney).

One thing that strikes one at once is the proof any list of Kentish villages gives of the forestal character of Kent. As one of my aims is to save trouble on the part of some future writer who shall produce the long overdue History of Kentish Place-Names, I will here transcribe all which indicate a woodland origin. About a few I am doubtful, but probably others which I have in ignorance left out would balance them. There are in this list 20 of the characteristic dens, although far more survive as the names of manors or now uninhabited parts; there are 15 hursts and 35 woods—some of the last being no doubt modern as names of places. I make 174 of these forestal names as under:—

Abbey Wood, Ackhold (Oakwood), Acol (alias Wood), Acrise? (Oakridge), Appledore, Arnold’s Oak, Ash, Ashenden, Ashford, Ashley, Ashurst, Bargrove, Bellegrove (Benenden), Betteshanger, Bircholt, Boghurst Street, Bough Beech, Boughton (four), Boxhurst (Boxley), Bredhurst, Broad Oak, Brogueswood, Broome, Broomfield, High Brooms, Broomstreet, Bush, Challock Wood, Chart (four), Chartham, Chartham Hatch, Cheriton, Chesnut Street, Cobham Wood, Cowden, Cockham Wood, Colds Wood, Comp Woods, Crookhurst Street, Denstead, Denstroud, Denton (three), Denwood, Dingleden, East Malling Woods, Eastwood, Eggringe Wood, Elmley, Elmley Ferry, Elmstead (two), Elmstone, Eyehorne Hatch, Eyhorne Street, Eythorne, Hawkenhurst, Filmer’s Wood, Five Oak Green, Forest Hill, Four Elms, Frogholt, Goathurst Common, Gore Wood, Forsley Wood, Goudhurst, Grove, Grove End, Grove Ferry, Grove Green, Hatch Green, Hawkhurst, Hazelwood Hill, Hengrove, Henhurst, Henwood, Heronden, Hoaden, Hockenden, Hollingbourne, Hollanden, Holm Mill, Holmstone, Holt Street, Holwood Hill, Hookstead Green (Oakstead?), Horsmonden, Hurst, Ivy Hatch (Ileden), Kidbrooke?, King’s Wood, Kingsnorth, Knockhall, Knockholt, Lamberhurst, Leywood, Maiden Wood, Maplescombe, Marden, Mark Beech, Marwood, Mereworth Woods, Molash, Mussenden, Nagden, Northwood, Norwood (two), Nurstead (old Nutstead), Oakhurst, Oakley, Old Tree, Otterden, Oxenden Corner, Paddock Wood, Penenden Heath, Penshurst, Perry Street, Perry Wood, Pickhurst Green, Pinden, Plumstead, Plumpton, Quarry Wood, Rainden, Ringwould, Rolvenden, Saltwood, Sandhurst, Sevenoaks, Shadoxhurst, Sibertswold, Shottenden, Silcox Wood, Sissinghurst, Smarden, Snoll Hatch, Snoad Street, Southernden, Southwood, Speldhurst, Standen, Staplehurst, Swanscombe Wood, Tenterden, Thornham, Three Beeches, Eickenhurst, Waldershare, Waltham, Warden, Weald, Westenhanger, Westwood (two), Wissenden, Womenswould, Woodchurch, Woodcut Hill, Woodlands (two), Woodruff, Woodside Green, Wouldham.

Land Divisions of Kent.

Uninterruptedly from Saxon times Kent has been divided into districts called Lathes, and these into Hundreds, and these again into Borowes or Townes, the last being in Kent synonymous and used to the exclusion of the name parish down to the times of Elizabeth.

First, as to the meanings and uses of these three words.

Lathe takes us back to the Saxon Læth for land, and in Latin documents appears as Lestus or Lastus, _e.g._, “In Lasto Sanctii Augustini” in a deed of 1347. Lambarde, however, derives it from a verb gelathian, to assemble; while Latham, following the German writer Zeuss, says the Terræ lœticæ were lands given to the Lœti. Lœti is the Roman form of Leute, _i.e._, People, _i.e._, the Teutonic mercenaries who were imported to defend the Litus Saxonicum—the eastern and south-eastern coast—which was especially open to the attacks of Scandinavian pirates. The abstruse and involved explanation will hardy be preferred. It is a purely Kentish word.

Hundred.—This familiar word, first found in the Laws of King Edgar, 1000 A.D., comes from the old High German (Allemannisch), Huntare or Huntre. The Huntares in N. Europe were the sub-divisions of the Gau, the primary settlement with independent jurisdiction, a word to be traced in such place-names as Spengay and Wormegay, and even in Ely, for its earliest form was Eligabirig. But why Hundred? Some say each contained an hundred hides of land (but hundreds vary much in size). Some say each was a district wherein 100 soldiers had to be forthcoming in war—this approves itself to Lambarde and Spelman. Some refer it to the original settlement of 100 Jutish warriors, as sub-divisions of the Teutonic army which conquered the Britons. Brampton thinks each was to contain 100 villages. But in view of the historical and legal use of the word one may prefer the number of the freeholders in an area as constituting the Hundred. Thus the great legal authority, Blackstone, says: “As 10 families of freeholders made a town or tithing, so 10 tithings made an Hundred.” Each had its Hundred Court for civil and criminal jurisdiction; each its Hundred man or constable; each its Hundred Mote or assembly or parliament; each its Hundred-penny, or local tax on and in the Hundred. Most English counties were, and are, divided into Hundreds, wapentakes, or wards. So Caxton, writing in 1485, says: “In Yorkshire ben xxii hondredes.” Of these words Wapentake indicates the defensive military organisation of the Danish intruders, and Hundred the more peaceful settlements of Jutes and Saxons. A synonym peculiar to Sussex is the word Rape, the origin of which is said to be that lands seized by the Conqueror were plotted out by the hrepp or rope.

Tithings were the divisions of the Hundred or Wapentake or Ward or Rape, and the term is used in most counties. But in Kent Borowe or Ton or Towne is used instead. A Tything, Freeburgh or Decennary, was a district containing ten householders, who were answerable to the King for each other’s good behaviour. Each tything formed a little commonwealth, and chose its own dean (decanus or chief man of ten) or head, who was sometimes called Alderman on account of his age and experience. Most commonly, however, he was called the Borsholder from the Anglo-Saxon Bohr a surety, and Ealder, head or chief. The members of each tything formed a court of justice in which disputes were heard. Right down to 1836 the inhabitants of an Hundred where damage was done were each liable to pay compensation for it. The tendency of small bodies to take petty and shortsighted views in social matters is evidenced in John Bunyan’s _Pilgrim’s Progress_, where, quoting a much earlier proverb, he speaks of “Mr. Penny-wise-pound-foolish,” and “Mr. Get-i’-th’ Hundred and lose i’ the Shire.”

Originally there were seven Lathes in Kent—Borowart, Estrei, Middletune, Wiwarlet, Limowart, Sudtone, and Elesford, of which the first five covered East Kent and the last two West Kent. Each derived its name from the chief town in each. Those in East Kent had previously been Roman Villas or towns, while Sutton-at-Hone and Aylesford were of great antiquity.

Later Borowart and Estrei were united under the name of S. Augustine’s, and Middletune and Wiwarlet together formed the Lathe of Sherwinhope, which again, by the addition of the Seven Hundreds of the Weald and the Hundred of Marden, received its present territory and name of the Lathe of Scray.

One finds also a Lestus de Hedelynge containing the three Hundreds of Eastry, Quernilo and Beawesberghe. In this district an old wood in Waldershare is still Hedlinge.

Since the time of Henry the Third there have been but five Lathes, named S. Augustine’s, Shepway, Scray, Aylesford, and Sutton-at-Hone.

Now as to their names.

Borowart, Boro-wara-lest, was named from Canterbury, the chief borough in Kent, and so means the people of the borough, the chief one. Later it was named from S. Augustine’s Abbey in Canterbury, to which a great part of the land in the Lathe belonged.

Estrei, or Estre Last, named from the ancient town of Eastry (which may enshrine the name of the Saxon goddess of Spring, Eastre—whence our Easter, from the Christian festival coinciding in time with the heathen festival) was absorbed into the Lathe of S. Augustine.

Middletune (Middeltuna both in the _Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_ and in Domesday) is our Milton by Sittingbourne, and is said to be named from being the central town of Kent, as it was then populated and of importance.

Wiwarlet (Wi-wara-lest), the lest of the people of Wye, together with Middletune, became later part of the Lathe of Sherwinhope (Scrawynghop, temp. Hen. 3, and Shewynghope 1347). This name was later changed into that of Scray. What is the meaning of Sherwinhope? Hope in Saxon denotes a river valley, and Sands, in his _Memorials of Old Kent_, speaks of the brook Sherway, which falls into the Beult. But what of Scray?

Limowart, or Limea, denotes the people of Lymne, the old Roman Portus Lemanis, called Limene in 1291, then Lymene, Lymen 1396, Limne 1475, and Lymne 1480. I do not find the intrusive and erroneous p in the name earlier than 1504. The name was changed to Shippeway or Shipway, temp. Henry III., and a place in Lymne is still called Shipway Cross.

Sudtone, _i.e._, the town south of Dartford, distinguished from other Suttons by the later addition of “at Hone,” which is said to mean low in the valley.

Elesford, our Aylesford, is so spelled in Domesday, but in the _Saxon Chronicle_ it is Egelsford, and in Nennius Egisford. It may very well have been named by the Saxons after the Teutonic hero-archer or demigod Eigil, though the Celtic Eglwys, a church, has been suggested. It also appears as Ægelesthrep, and for this a personal name (_e.g._, Ecglaf), with threp or thorp for town has been suggested. But thorp we get from the Danes, and find chiefly in the N.E. There are none in Kent.

The place-name difficulty, however, is intensified when we find, according to Lambarde in 1570, 13 Hundreds in S. Augustine’s, 14 in Shepway, 18 in Scray, 14 in Aylesford, and 8 in Sutton-at-Hone, many of them being long obsolete names, such as Cornilo in S. Augustine’s, Franchesse in Shepway, Calehill in Scray, Eythorde in Aylesford, and Coddeshethe in Sutton-at-Hone. And then in some places there are Half-Hundreds, which, however, did not exist before the reign of Edward II.

As a matter of nearer local interest I may quote the divisions and assessments in the time of the Black Prince of the boroughs of the Hundred of Maydstone.

£ s. d.

Borough of Maydestone was assessed at 19 9 2 Westre (now West Borough) at 44 2 Stone (now Stone St. Ward) at 78 2 Loose at 34 4 Detlinge at 58 4 (These two villages were attached to Maidstone ecclesiastically until the reign of Elizabeth).

£ s. d.

Lynton and Crookherst at 50 8 East Farleyghe at 45 1 Boxley at 4 3 4 Sum £38 18 3

I do not understand the omission of the borough of Week or Wyke—whence Week Street—of which the old manor house still remains in Week Street, unless it was then included in Boxley.

The study of the place-names of a county (as has been well done for our neighbour Sussex) mainly confines itself to the derivation and meaning of existing towns and villages, rivers, and hills, and I have done little more in these notes. But the subject is not then exhausted, for there is much of great interest to be gathered from the names of Hundreds, of Manors, and even of separate farms, and their consideration would largely extend the enquiry. For example, the Hundred Eyhorne in 1347 had the manors of Herbyltone (Harbledown in Harrietsham), Rissheforde in Hedcorne, Bromfield and Ledes, Sutton Valence, Olecombe, Heryetesham, Thorneham, Eynton, Bengebery, Wrensted, Frensted, Yoke, Wytchlinge, Aldington Septvance, Bocton, Malherbe-cum-Wormsell, Fokeham, Stockberye, Langele, Bygnor, Aldington Cobham, Otteham, B. Monchelsey alias Westboltone, West Farnebourne, Shelve in Lenham, Leneham, Downe, Berghestede, Bugeley, Cherletone, and Bressinge, many of these names being very unfamiliar now.

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.