Part 3
Continuing along Court Street to Chilton Street we come to Pilgrim Hall, stopping at the Tabitha Plasket House on the way.
This house, pictured above, was built in 1722 by Consider Howland, great-grandson of John Howland, who came in the Mayflower. A considerable part of the original structure still remains. It was occupied for some years by Tabitha Plasket, said to have been the first woman school teacher, and a person of strong personality and rigorous discipline. It is recorded that she hung unruly scholars to the wall by placing a skein of yarn under the arms as a corrective measure. The house is located on the east side of Court Street, between the Court House and Pilgrim Hall.
One is awakened to the realism of the early life of the Colony with a visit to Pilgrim Hall, that shrine of all lovers of Pilgrim history, where repose many articles brought over in the Mayflower and closely associated with the daily life of the Pilgrims.
This building on the easterly side of Court Street, a short distance north of the Court House, was erected by the Pilgrim Society in 1824 in memory of the Pilgrims and as a depository for historical relics; In 1880 material improvements were made in the original structure, largely through the generosity of the late Joseph Henry Stickney of Baltimore who had always taken an intense interest in matters concerning the early colony. At the time, the top portion of Plymouth Rock, which had for 46 years been resting at one side of the entrance to the hall, the latter part of the time enclosed by an iron fence, was moved back to its original bed and placed on the base where it has since remained. Later in 1911-12 the Pilgrim Society spent approximately $15,000 in completing the work already inaugurated by Mr. Stickney, making the building practically fireproof with its steel beams, terra cotta and cement tiles, marble floors, etc. Its Doric portico is impressive in its dignity and will be easily recognized as one approaches from either direction.
AN HISTORICAL COLLECTION
The following are only a few of the interesting treasures within the hall:
Picture of the “Landing,” in vestibule of Hall. Given by R. G. Shaw of Boston.
Picture of the “Landing,” 13 x 16 feet, by Henry Sargent of Boston and presented by him in 1834. On east wall of hall.
Copy of Weir’s Embarkation from Delft Haven. Painted by Edgar Parker. South wall of hall.
Departure from Delft Haven, by Charles Lucy. Presented by Alexander H. Rice, former governor of Massachusetts. This picture won first prize of one thousand guineas at an exhibition in England. Of great value. West wall.
Original of Weir’s Embarkation of the Pilgrims from Delft Haven. Purchased by the Society in 1914 (Weir’s picture in the rotunda of the Capitol at Washington is an enlargement from this study).
W. F. Halsall’s fine painting of the Mayflower in Plymouth Harbor hangs on the north wall inclosed by portraits of the Winslow family.
Many engravings of historic interest, including the Signing of the Compact.
Patent of the Plymouth Colony. This is the oldest state document in New England. It bears the date of June 1, 1621, was granted to John Peirce and came over in the ship Fortune in November, 1621. It shows the seals and signatures of the Duke of Lenox, the Marquis of Hamilton, the Earl of Warwick, Lord Sheffield and Sir Fernando Gorges. Several parts of this ancient document have broken away, including the seal of Hamilton and the seal and signature of John Peirce, the party of the second part thereto. This charter includes the territory in and around Cape Cod Bay, outside that allotted in the first charter which had covered the territory to the south in the neighborhood of the Virginia Capes. This second charter was granted by the Council for New England, which had been created by royal authority after the departure of the Pilgrims from Plymouth, England.
Bible of Governor William Bradford printed in Geneva in 1592.
Chairs of Elder Brewster, Gov. Carver and Gov. Winslow.
Carved back of pew taken from parish church at Scrooby, Eng.
The famous sword of Captain Myles Standish dating back several centuries before the Christian era; captured from the Persians by the Saracens in 637 at Jerusalem and bearing the inscription in Arabic, “With peace God ruled His slaves (creatures) and with the judgment of his arm He troubled the mighty of the wicked.”
Portraits of Dr. James Tucker, first secretary of the Pilgrim Society; Joseph Henry Stickney, generous contributor to the Society, hanging over bronze tablet; George Washington; Edward Everett; Edward Winslow, Governor of Plymouth Colony in 1633-36-44; Josiah Winslow, son of Edward Winslow, Governor, 1673-1680; Penelope Winslow, wife of Governor Josiah; Gen. John Winslow (great grandson of Edward); Dr. Isaac Winslow. These portraits are grouped about the picture of the Mayflower (by Halsall), hanging on the north wall of the hall.
Portrait of the Hon. Daniel Webster.
Original manuscript, including Miss Felicia Heman’s “The Breaking Waves Dashed High.”
In the fireproof annex, which holds the library, are over three thousand volumes of great value, dating back as far as 1559.
There is a basement in which are stored relics of a somewhat later period. In fact, the building is so filled with interesting reminders of the early Colonial days that it would be useless to enumerate them here. There is a complete catalogue obtainable at the hall which will be a great aid to the visitor as each article is described in detail. The Hall is open daily to visitors. Admission twenty-five cents.
THE PILGRIM SOCIETY
The Pilgrim Society held its first meeting after incorporation in the Court House in Plymouth on May 18th, 1820, and elected Mr. Joshua Thomas its first president. It was the result of a previous meeting of Plymouth gentlemen at the home of Mr. Thomas, who were inspired with a desire to perpetuate the memory of the first settlers.
Four years later the original home of the society was erected upon its present location and upon plans of Alexander Parris, architect of the Boston Cathedral of St. Paul. This building as before stated was remodeled in 1880 and the wing which now houses the library and other Pilgrimiana was added in 1904. The present granite facade was a gift of the New England Society in New York in 1922.
Across the street from Pilgrim Hall and a little to the north is the Armory previously referred to, while a few steps beyond is St. Peter’s Catholic Church. At this point on the east side of Court Street is the Plymouth Memorial Building, also previously described. This building stands on the lot formerly occupied by the colonial residence built in 1809 by Major William Hammett and later and for many years occupied by Mr. Thomas Hedge and family. When the erection of the Memorial Building was decided upon, this house was moved back and now faces Water Street and the harbor. It is reminiscent of the early 19th century and is maintained and kept open to visitors during the summer by the Plymouth Antiquarian Society.
WATSON’S HILL
Market Street, which parallels Main Street Extension, runs from Town Square southward, converging with Sandwich and Pleasant Streets at its base. Beyond and to the right is Watson’s Hill from which place Massasoit and his braves approached the settlement, crossing the brook at the ford below on their way to the Common House where the famous treaty was consummated. An excellent view of the town is to be had from this elevation, originally a corn field and for generations a section of attractive homes.
SUMMER STREET AND MORTON PARK
Summer street leads westerly from Market Street, being one of the first streets laid out. Here may be seen two of the oldest houses in Plymouth, viz.: the Richard Sparrow House on the left of the street and a short distance from Market Street and the Leach House a few steps beyond at the Corner of Spring Street, once known as Spring Lane. This house was built by George Bonum in 1679.
The Sparrow House is presumed to have been built by Richard Sparrow in 1640. If so, it is the oldest house in Plymouth. Inside it is distinctive of the early 17th century era with its great fireplace and its brick oven.
Note: Spring Street has been referred to as Spring Lane and Baptist Hill, the latter designation derived from the fact that a Baptist chapel occupied a lot for many years on the west side a few steps from Summer Street.
This house is now used as craftsman’s shop by the Plymouth Potters, and is open to visitors.
Plymouth Pottery is unique in that it is made up of local red-firing clay by former pupils of a State Vocational Project—now organized into a co-operative guild.
Many pieces have an early American flavor and the hand-ground glazes give interesting and unusual effects. Many persons have called these pieces “heirlooms of the future.”
Summer Street follows the brook along which were many manufacturing concerns a short generation ago. It leads to the wooded area of the town past Oak Grove and Pine Hills Cemeteries to Morton Park, a woodland sanctuary of nearly 340 acres situated about a mile from the town’s center. This land was given to the town by a group of Plymouth citizens in 1889, headed by Mr. Nathaniel Morton, who was himself a generous contributor.
The Park includes two lakes of sparkling fresh water, Little Pond which covers approximately 40 acres and where accommodations are provided for picnics and bathing, and Billington Sea, covering an area of over three hundred acres.
THE TRAINING GREEN
Lying just below Watson’s Hill between Pleasant Street on the west and Sandwich Street on the east, is an open square known as Training Green, from the fact that in the earlier days companies of militia were trained there in the manual of arms. In the center stands the Soldiers’ Monument, erected in 1869 to the memory of Plymouth men who served in the army and navy and who gave their lives during the Civil War. This tract of land was used before the arrival of the Pilgrims by the Indians for growing corn. It has contributed its share of arrow heads and other Indian relics, as have the other hills and fields in the immediate neighborhood.
SANDWICH STREET, OLD HOUSES
Sandwich Street runs southeasterly from the foot of Market Street, formerly Spring Hill. Near this point on the west side of Sandwich Street, near the head of Water Street, is the Howland House, built in 1666. It was the home of Jabez Howland, son of John Howland of the Mayflower, who died in 1672.
This house is now owned by the Society of Howland Descendants which holds annual reunions for the purpose of keeping alive the family intercourse and the traditions of the early colonial days.
THE HARLOW HOUSE
Just beyond on the west side of Sandwich Street (No. 119) is the William Harlow House, built in 1677.
A transfer of land on which this house stands is in the town records under date of July 29, 1669, as follows: “att this meeting a quarter of an acre of land was granted to William Harlow being a little Knowle or smale psell of land lying nere his now dwelling house on the westerly syde of the Road Way To sett a new house upon.” (sic) Timbers used in the construction of this house were taken from the old fort on Burial Hill.
The Plymouth Antiquarian Society acquired this property with the object of preserving a fine example of the homes of the early settlement. Here may be seen the spinning wheel, the pots and kettles and other articles of domestic use necessary to the family upkeep three centuries and over ago.
The Society also maintains the Antiquarian House on Water Street, which is preserved as it was in early Colonial days and is well worth a visit.
THE KENDALL HOLMES HOUSE
This house was built by William Harlow in 1654 and later acquired by Kendall Holmes. It is located on Winter Street, east of Sandwich Street. The house stands as originally built except for the ell which was added later. In both furnishings and construction it provides a fine example of the houses of the early colonial period.
A short distance beyond is Jabez Corner. Here the roads diverge, the road to the right leading to Chiltonville, once known as Eel River, an attractive community village one and one-half miles distant.
Straight ahead Warren Avenue follows the shore. This is one of Plymouth’s most picturesque and delightful residential sections with its view of harbor and bay, and its expanse of unbroken terrain as it slopes toward the water, all within easy access to the business center.
One mile to the south is the Plymouth Beach Club and a short distance beyond at the point where Plymouth Beach extends along the inner harbor and Eel River enters the harbor, are the splendid facilities for public bathing provided by the Town of Plymouth. A half mile beyond, near Hotel Pilgrim, is the 18-hole golf course of the Plymouth Country Club, one of the finest in the country.
Here the roads diverge again. The road to the left follows the shore, although at points high above the water, while the road to the right runs directly over the Pine Hills.
These hills were included in the early division of land designated as the “Great Lots” in 1711-12, and later transferred by deed at various times and to various ownerships. At points they reach an altitude of 400 feet above sea level. The roads running nearly parallel, meet at the point three miles south where the Manomet church stands at the southeast corner of the intersection.
One-half mile to the east is White Horse Beach which, during the past few years, has developed into a large summer colony. The beach between White Horse and Manomet Point affords excellent bathing, and boats with tackle for sea fishing are readily obtainable.
Nearby to the south is Hotel Mayflower, and at the “Point” below, the Manomet Coast Guard Station. Manomet Village lies to the west, and on the bluff overlooking the bay is Hotel Idlewild (formerly the Barstow House).
Southward stretch wide acres of fields and meadows, hills and vales dotted here and there by farms and gardens, a variation of landscape that is typical of New England. Hundreds of acres devoted to cranberry culture may be seen from the highway, an indication of the high state of development this industry has reached.
From many points of vantage along the entire shore, coastwise traffic via the Cape Cod Canal may be seen heading north and south.
The Town of Plymouth is fortunate in having this wide expanse of adaptable terrain within its confines. The entire area with its scenic beauty, its woods, its lakes, its bay, its beaches, its rocks, its foliage and flowers, is a natural heritage, which, combined with man’s handiwork, is becoming more and more inviting, not only as a haven of rest and recreation, but as the ideal American homesite.
THE MAYFLOWER PASSENGERS
Prepared by George Ernest Bowman Editor of “The Mayflower Descendant”
There were only one hundred and four (104) Mayflower Passengers. Every one of them is included in the two lists following. There were no other passengers.
The 50 passengers from whom descent can be proved:
John Alden Isaac Allerton wife Mary daughter Mary daughter Remember John Billington wife Eleanor son Francis William Bradford William Brewster wife Mary son Love Peter Brown James Chilton wife —— daughter Mary Francis Cooke son John Edward Doty Francis Eaton wife Sarah son Samuel Edward Fuller wife —— son Samuel Dr. Samuel Fuller Stephen Hopkins 2nd wife, Elizabeth son Gyles (by 1st wife) daughter Constance (by 1st wife) John Howland Richard More William Mullins wife Alice daughter Priscilla Degory Priest Thomas Rogers son Joseph Henry Samson George Soule Myles Standish John Tilley, and wife —— daughter Elizabeth Richard Warren William White wife Susanna son Resolved son Peregrine Edward Winslow
The 54 passengers from whom descent cannot be proved.
Bartholomew Allerton John Allerton John Billington Dorothy Bradford (1st wife of William) Wrestling Brewster Richard Britterige William Butten Robert Carter John Carver Katherine Carver (wife of John) Maid servant of the Carvers Richard Clarke Humility Cooper John Crakston son John —— Ely Thomas English Moses Fletcher Richard Gardiner John Goodman William Holbeck John Hooke Damaris Hopkins Oceanus Hopkins John Langmore William Latham Edward Leister Edmund Margeson Christopher Martin wife —— Desire Minter Ellen More Jasper More (a boy) More Joseph Mullins Solomon Prower John Rigdale wife Alice Rose Standish (1st wife of Myles) Elias Story Edward Thomson Edward Tilley wife Ann Thomas Tinker wife —— son —— William Trevore John Turner son —— son —— Roger Wilder Thomas Williams Elizabeth Winslow (1st wife of Edward) Gilbert Winslow
The migration of the Pilgrim company was the result of years of friction between the adherents of the established Church of England with its perfunctory ritualisms and those who demanded the right to worship according to their conscience and the simplicity of the gospel as exemplified in the scriptures.
This determined attitude on the part of the dissenters was met by arbitrary rulings on the part of the reigning monarch, King James I, of England and the bishops who received their support from the crown. The oppression became so great that in 1608 the congregation of the Pilgrim Church at Scrooby moved to Amsterdam, Holland, whence in 1609 they moved to Leyden, twenty-two miles distant. Here they remained for twelve years. It was a temporary refuge, however. There was the constantly growing fear of assimilation into Dutch life and habits as well as the absorption of a language foreign to themselves and their posterity. They preferred to remain English men and women although their relations had been friendly with the Dutch who commended their industry and their peaceful contacts. Nevertheless, King James was beginning to exercise his influence in the low countries again much to their discomfiture.
Finally deciding to leave Leyden, application was made to the Virginia Company which had been established in 1606, and held patents to land along the Atlantic coast of North America from the 34th to 45th degrees of north latitude, for a patent to land suitable for settlement.
Having secured their patent, estates were liquidated and, with the proceeds therefrom, together with money subscribed by the London company, styled the Merchant Adventurers, with whom they had formed a business alliance, the Speedwell, a small vessel of sixty tons, was secured and sent to Delfthaven to transport the colonists to Southampton where the Mayflower, a vessel of one hundred and eighty tons, was to join them.
On the 15th of August, 1620, both vessels left Southampton, but the Speedwell proving unseaworthy, they were obliged to return, putting into the harbor of Dartmouth for repairs. A second attempt resulted in abandoning the Speedwell at Plymouth, from which port the Mayflower sailed alone on the 16th of September. After a tempestuous voyage of sixty-six days, refuge was taken in Cape Cod harbor (Provincetown) on November 21st, 1620.
From here exploring parties set out in the shallop (small boat) to locate a suitable home site and on December 21st a landing was made at Plymouth, the Mayflower following on December 26th. And here a permanent settlement was established.
As the patent they held covered land in the vicinity of the Virginia capes, and settlement was made outside the limits defined therein, a second patent was obtained covering land contiguous to Cape Cod Bay. This second patent was brought over in the Fortune in 1621 and is now preserved in Pilgrim Hall.
It was while the Mayflower lay in Provincetown harbor that, to quote from Mourt’s Relation under date of November 23rd, 1620, “Our people went on shore to refresh themselves and our women to wash as they had great need.” This was on Monday, and is supposed to be the origin of our national “Wash Day.”
It was here also that the famous document referred to by Bradford as a “combination” but later known as the Compact was drawn and signed. This document has often been referred to as the genesis of our present form of constitutional government as expounded in the Constitution of the United States and later expressed by Lincoln as “of the people, by the people and for the people.” It anticipates future growth and development and the enactment of laws necessary to meet changing conditions as “by vertue hereof to enacte, constitute and frame such just & equall lawes, ordinances, Acts, constitutions & offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meete & conuenient for ye generall good of ye Colonie.” (sic)
It has been said of the Pilgrims that “They builded better than they knew.” This should not be interpreted too literally. They laid a solid foundation upon which future generations could and did build, and upon this foundation rests the security of the structure that is our present form of government.
The literal text of this immortal document follows:
THE COMPACT (Copied from Bradford’s “History of Plymouth Plantation”)
In ye name of God Amen. We whose names are underwriten, the loyall subjects of our dread soueraigne Lord King James, by ye grace of God, of Great Britaine, Franc, & Ireland king, defender of ye faith, &c. Haueing undertaken, for ye glorie of God, and aduancemente of ye christian faith and honour of our king & countrie, a voyage to plant ye first colonie in ye Northerne parts of Virginia, doe by these presents solemnly & mutualy in ye presence of God, and one of another; couenant, & combine our selues togeather into a ciuill body politick; for our better ordering, & preseruation & furtherance of ye ends aforesaid; and by vertue hereof to enacte, constitute, and frame such just & equall lawes, ordinances, Acts, constitutions, & offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meete & conuenient for ye generall good of ye Colonie; unto which we promise all due submission and obedience. In witness whereof we haue hereunder subscribed our names at Cap-Codd ye .11. of Nouember in ye year of ye raigne of our soueraigne Lord King James of England, France, & Ireland ye eighteenth, and of Scotland ye fiftie fourth. Ano: Dom. 1620.