Part 2

“He was a godly man and an ancient professor in the wayes of Christ. Hee was one of the first comers into this land and was the last man that was left of those that came over in the Shipp called the Mayflower that lived in Plymouth.” (Plymouth Records.)

No. 44—Stone at grave of William Crowe bearing dates 1683-84.

For complete story of Burial Hill and detailed guide map showing name and location of all the graves the reader is referred to The Pilgrim Guide to Burial Hill and Its Epitaphs, available at most Plymouth stores. The map is indispensable in locating the graves.

No. 40—Stone to Thomas Clark 1697. Stone to Hannah Clark 1697.

Near the stone of Thomas Clark is stone to Nathaniel Clark, his son. The latter was a councilor to Sir Edward Andros, Governor of New England.

No. 38—Stone to John Cotton 1699.

Graves of the Cottons. Three sons of Rev. John Cotton and seven sons of Josiah Cotton.

The Cushman gravestone 1691. This noted gravestone is one of the six bearing date in the seventeenth century. This ancient landmark was removed by the descendants of Elder Thomas Cushman to make room as they say “for a more enduring memorial.”

The Cushman monument on the north side of the hill was erected in 1858 in memory of Robert Cushman, his wife Mary, and Thomas Cushman, the latter for many years a ruling elder in the First Church.

The foregoing are the oldest stones on the hill.

Others are: No. 31—Thomas Faunce 1646-1745. Elder First Church 1699-1745. Town Clerk 1685-1723.

No. 36 is the grave of Nathaniel Jackson. The stone is the oldest Masonic stone on the hill. It is dated 1743.

No. 37—Stone over the grave of Francis LeBaron 1704. The “Nameless Nobleman.”

No. 41—Grave of sailors from brig Gen. Arnold who perished in Plymouth Harbor. James Magee of Boston was the unfortunate commander of this ill-fated ship. The site is marked by a monument erected through the generosity of Stephen Gale of Portland, Maine. This is on the west side of the hill.

No. 42—Tabitha Plasket, June 10, 1807. (Epitaph on following page).

No. 43—Gen. James Warren lot. Patriot and Soldier.

No. 45—Site of fort built in 1622; the lower part was used for a church; also fort built in 1675—100 ft. square with palisades 10½ ft. high.

There are many peculiar epitaphs, some in prose and some in verse, and expressive of about every shade and degree of sentiment. A few of these follow:

(Blue stone, slate. Top and right-hand corner gone) Capt. Ellis Brews—— and Nancy —— wife died Dec. 13, 189— aged —4 years (where lines appear letters and figures are obliterated). The name, however, is Brewster, and originally read—Son of:

“He listen’d for a while to hear Our mortal griefs then turned his ear To angel harps and songs and cried To join their notes celestial sigh’d and dyed.”

(Low blue slate. Sound and compact. Symbol). In memory of Frederic, son of Mr. Thomas Jackson and Mrs. Lucy, his wife who died March 15, 1788, aged 1 year and 5 days.

O! happy Probationer! accepted, without being exercised!—It was thy peculiar Privilege not to feel the slightest of these Evils, which oppress thy surviving kindred.

(Blue slate; pyramidal; good condition. At top bust of female under curtain drapery. The epitaph is from Young’s Night Thoughts, “Narcissa.”)

Fanny Crombie, daughter of Mr. Calvin Crombie and Mrs. Naomi, his wife. Departed this life June 25th, 1804, in the 8th year of her age.

As young as beautiful and soft as young And gay as soft and innocent as gay.

Note: In quoting these epitaphs the writer has referred to book compiled in 1894 by the late Benjamin Drew of Plymouth.

(Blue slate. Good condition. Weeping willow and urn.)

To the memory of ISAAC COAL, son of Mr. Isaac Coal and Mrs. Sarah, his wife, who died Aug. 28, 1825, in the 17th year of his age.

Friends and Physicians could not save His mortal body from the grave Nor can the grave confine him here When CHRIST shall call him to appear.

(Blue slate. Good condition. Weeping willow and urn).

In memory of Mrs. Tabitha Plasket, who died June 10, 1807, aged 64 years.

Adieu vain world I have seen enough of thee And I am careless what thou say’st of me Thy smiles I wish not; Nor the frowns I fear I am now at rest my head lies quiet here.

(Stone of blue slate. Moss grown. Defaced. Cleft Broken Symbol.)

—ere lyes Buried—body of Mrs. Sarah Atwood, wife of Deacon John —— died Jan. ye 22d 1725 in ye 37th year of her age.

(Purplish blue slate. Nearly covered with moss. Symbol surrounded with blossoms.)

The memory of the Just is Blessed.

Here lyes the Body of Mr. John Atwood who died on the 6th of August A D 1754 AEtatis 70 years. He was a Man of Piety & Religion Adorned with every Christian grace & virtue & therefore well qualified for ye office of a Deacon which he discharged in ye first Church of Christ in this Town for about 40 Years with Honesty & uprightness and in the Course of his Life adorned the Doctrine of His Saviour by a well ordered Conversation.

Some are truly inspirational as shown by the following:

(White marble, fair condition, Urn.)

Patience C. Holmes, Daug. of Nathan and Ruth Holmes. Died April 1, 1845, in her 24 y’r.

“Shed not for her the bitter tear Nor give the heart to vain regret, ’Tis but the casket that lies here; The gem that fill’d it sparkles yet.”

Monument

In memory of Seventy two seamen who perished in Plymouth harbour on the 26 and 27 days of December 1778, on board the private armed Brig, Gen. Arnold, of twenty guns, James Magee of Boston, Commander, sixty of whom were buried on this spot.

(On the northwesterly side.)

Capt. James Magee died in Roxbury, February 4, 1801; aged 51 years.

Note: This monument was erected by Stephen Gale of Portland, Maine, a stranger to them, as a memorial to their sufferings and death.

One of the most recent burials here was that of Judge Thomas Russell who was buried here at his special request.

Judge Russell was a native of Plymouth, the son of Thomas and Mary Ann (Goodwin) Russell. He was a noted jurist, was appointed by President Grant United States Minister to Venezuela and was President of the Pilgrim Society on the occasion of General Grant’s visit to Plymouth. His stone of native granite bears the inscription: Thomas Russell, born Sept. 26, 1825, Died Feb. 9, 1887.

The brass cannons shown above are on the east side of Burial Hill near the site of the old fort. They were presented to the Town of Plymouth by the British Government as an expression of Good Will during the Tercentenary period and were transmitted through the Ancient and Honourable Artillery Company of London to the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company of Massachusetts. On the right is a “Minion.” On the left a “Sakeret,” both of the mid-16th century era. They were formerly in the collection of the British National Artillery Museum and are similar to the cannons mounted on the first fort to protect the colony from attack of Indians.

TOWN SQUARE AND CHURCHES

Leaving the hill at the southeast slope and following down the terraced brick and granite walk, we step into Town Square. This is the logical center of the town and it may well be said, for generations the seat of government with the Town House on the south side, bearing its descriptive tablet. Just ahead is the first street leading to the water and reaching to the north is Main Street.

Let us here face about. As we look up the square we face the First Church (Unitarian), so called by virtue of its succession of unbroken records, the oldest volume of which may be seen in Pilgrim Hall. This church was dedicated on Dec. 21, 1899. Its arched portal is an elaborate copy of the portal of the church at Austerfield, England, in which Gov. Bradford was christened. A tablet near the entrance bears the following inscription:

The Church of Scrooby, Leyden, and the Mayflower gathered on this hillside in 1620, has ever since preserved unbroken records and maintained a continuous ministry, its first covenant being still the basis of its fellowship. In reverent memory of its Pilgrim founders this fifth meeting house was erected A. D. MDCCCXCVII.

At the east end of the church is a memorial window representing John Robinson delivering his farewell address to the Pilgrims. This window is an artistic masterpiece. It was designed by Edward P. Sperry and since its installation it has been an object of much interest to visitors to Plymouth. Numerous other windows are commemorative of historic events.

The wood church of Gothic design occupying this site previous to erection of the present edifice, was built in 1830 and was destroyed by fire on Nov. 22, 1892.

On the right of the square is the Congregational Church, or Church of the Pilgrimage, erected in 1840, on which is a tablet with the following inscription:

This tablet is inscribed in grateful memory of the Pilgrims and of their successors who, at the time of the Unitarian controversy in 1801, adhered to the belief of the Fathers, and on the basis of the original creed and covenant perpetuated, at great sacrifice, in the Church of the Pilgrimage, the evangelical faith and fellowship of the Church of Scrooby, Leyden, and the “Mayflower” organized in England in 1606.

The first meeting house was erected in 1637 near the Gov. Bradford House. This building contained a bell, as did the more pretentious building erected in 1683 with its diamond leaded windows, Gothic roof, etc. In 1744 still another place of worship was erected nearer the site of the present First Church, and this remained until 1830, when the church that preceded the present church was built.

Considering Town Square as a focal point, there are several divergent routes one may take, each contributing its legacy of historical interest.

LEYDEN STREET

Let us now leave Town Square and wend our way along Leyden Street, so named in 1823, originally called First Street and later Great and Broad Street. On the right as we move easterly toward the water we see, on the site of the Elder Brewster homestead, the new Federal Building, in which is located the Customs House and Post Office. This is on the corner of Leyden Street and Main Street Extension, the latter extending over Town Brook referred to in Bradford’s History as “a very sweete brooke,” and which runs parallel with Leyden Street, emptying into the harbor just below.

BREWSTER GARDENS A BEAUTY SPOT

A spot both picturesque and historical lies to the south of Leyden Street bordering Town Brook. It covers land first allotted to William Brewster, John Goodman and Peter Brown in the original lay-out. The gardens in the rear extended downwards to the brook.

In the early days the estuary at the mouth of the stream was sufficiently wide and deep at high tide to permit the passing of fishing boats to what is now the third bridge. Many small craft “tied up” here during the winter months and periods of bad weather. Later a dam was built at the mouth of the stream and for generations water extended over an area of several acres.

The reclamation of this area was a part of the Tercentenary program. It was drained and graded, and the brook now follows its natural course through the park, now known as Brewster Gardens. The old English or Dutch gardens in the rear of the houses fronting on Leyden Street present a decided contrast.

Near the brook stands Henry H. Kitson’s statue of the Pilgrim Maiden mounted upon a native boulder and impressive in its sublimity. It seems to symbolize the courage and determination with which the adversities confronting the colonists were met and overcome. It was presented to the town by the National Society of New England Women, and bears the inscription—“To those intrepid English women, whose courage, fortitude and devotion brought a new nation into being, this statue of the Pilgrim Maiden is dedicated.”

Close at hand is the spring that supplied “sweete water” in the days of the Pilgrims. Water from this spring has been piped to the street above and supplies a drinking fountain near the Post Office.

A flight of stone steps designed by Fletcher Steele leads to this park.

Another memorial not to be overlooked is the stone seat also designed by Fletcher Steele and presented to the town by the National Society of Daughters of the American Colonists who came in the ship Ann in 1623.

Much of the credit for reclaiming this area so closely associated with the lives of the Pilgrims and developing this beautiful park is due Mrs. William H. Forbes of Milton whose father, Ralph Waldo Emerson, married Miss Lidian Jackson, daughter of Charles Jackson, in the old Winslow House shown on another page. This park is reached from both Water Street and Main Street Extension.

The points of greatest historical interest are so closely related in regard to location that to attempt to prescribe a definite route would be extremely difficult.

The most important points of interest are within easy walking distance. As a suggestion, however, one might follow Water Street from Brewster Gardens north and find the historic Rock within a two minutes’ walk.

During the Tercentenary celebration many changes were made in this section. The old wharves and buildings that had characterized this spot for generations, are gone and the immediate surroundings have been converted into a state reservation. It is a ground made sacred to the memory of the Pilgrims as is evidenced by the many memorials and markers in the vicinity, gifts of the various historical societies throughout the country.

PLYMOUTH ROCK

The magnificent peristyle shown here was designed by the architects McKim, Mead & White and was a gift of the National Society of the Colonial Dames of America on the 300th anniversary of the Landing of the Pilgrims.

It encloses the historic “Rock” on which the Pilgrims first set foot. The foundation wall is open on the water side allowing the free wash of the flood tides around the rock as it lies in its original bed.

Plymouth Rock, emblematic and suggestive of the Pilgrim associations has been viewed by countless thousands of people, not only from our own states, but the world over. It has been photographed, painted, and reproduced in bronze. On this rock the Pilgrims first stepped foot, December 21st, 1620. To those who may be prone to scepticism it can be stated that its interesting history has been handed down from generation to generation from Elder Thomas Faunce, who was born in Plymouth in 1647, and who died in 1746, aged 99 years. A few years before his death, at a time when removal or covering up of the rock was under contemplation, he made vigorous protest at what he termed the desecration of an object of deep veneration, stating that his father, John Faunce, who came over in the Ann in 1623, had told him that it was on that rock that the forefathers landed, as stated by them to him.

It is further possible that an early age some of the eldest of the Mayflower passengers may have imparted this information to Elder Faunce directly. During the war of the Revolution, an attempt was made to remove the rock to Town Square, there to be viewed as an emblem of liberty, civic and religious. In the operation of lifting, the upper portion split away, leaving the base in its original bed. This top portion was, however, transferred to the square, where it remained until 1834, when it was taken to Pilgrim Hall and placed within an iron fence at the left of the entrance. In 1880 it was moved back and cemented to its original base.

In the vicinity where the Rock now rests there were once many wharves and industrial enterprises. Plymouth was then an active and busy seaport but all this was changed when the Commonwealth of Massachusetts bought this land in 1920 and made it into a reservation.

The memorial pictured below, standing close to the Rock and Peristyle, is symbolic of the part played by the women of the Plymouth Colony in shaping the destinies of this, the first permanent settlement. Their courage and fortitude fill a glorious page in the annals of American colonization.

COLE’S HILL

Rising directly back of the landing place is Cole’s Hill, named after James Cole who settled here in 1633 and who died in Plymouth in 1692. Here lie those who died the first fateful winter. The hardships of the voyage and the lack of proper accommodations after the landing developed much sickness, which made frightful inroads on the little colony, their number being reduced one-half during the first few months, and those remaining being “scarce able to bury the dead.”

They were reduced so fast and to such an extent that it was deemed wise to conceal the graves, so they planted corn that Indians might remain in ignorance of their great losses. At various times in the process of excavating, human remains have been uncovered. These were carefully re-interred and a granite slab bearing an appropriate inscription now marks the spot and conveys to the visitor a mute attest to the sacrifices of those who contributed their part in shaping the destinies of our country.

Remains that were found during excavations for a water main on Carver Street in 1855 were, upon their identification as those of the Caucasian race as distinguished from the native Indians, placed in a vault on Burial Hill. Later, upon completion of the canopy over Plymouth Rock in 1867, they were placed in a receptacle in the top of that memorial. They now repose in the Sarcophagus erected under the direction and at the expense of the General Society of Mayflower Descendants.

During the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812 batteries were implanted on the brow of the hill to protect the town from approach by water.

A memorial seat on Cole’s Hill was erected in 1917 by the descendants and to the memory of James Cole, born in London, England, 1600. Died Plymouth, 1692. First settled on Cole’s Hill, 1633. A soldier in Pequot War, 1637.

Occupying a commanding position on Cole’s Hill is the statue of Massasoit, chief of the Wampanoags and friend of the colonists.

It was done in bronze by Cyrus Dallin and is mounted upon a native boulder with a tablet bearing the following inscription:

Massasoit Great Sachem of the Wampanoags Protector and Preserver of the Pilgrims 1621 Erected by the International Order of Red Men as a Grateful Tribute 1921

Winslow Street curves north from lower North Street and enters Water Street a short distance beyond. At the apex of the curve stands the house built in 1754 by Edward Winslow, great-grandson of Gov. Edward Winslow of the Plymouth Colony. The timbers used in its construction were brought from England. As shown, the house is an elaboration of the house in its original form. The trees in front of the house were planted by Edward Winslow’s daughter in 1760.

This property has been acquired by the National Society of Mayflower Descendants.

The above picture shows the Winslow House in its reconstruction. It was in this house that Ralph Waldo Emerson married Miss Lidian Jackson, daughter of Charles and Lucy (Cotton) Jackson who, at the time, occupied the house. It was later the residence of Rev. George Ware Briggs, long identified with the First Church in Plymouth.

Passing up North Street, shaded by its arch of lindens, we come to the house of Gen. John Winslow, built in 1730. This building stands at the corner of Main and North Streets and is now a business block. It was upon Gen. Winslow, who was a brother of Edward Winslow, that fell the unpleasant burden of removing the neutral Arcadians from Nova Scotia. This historic building was later the home of James Warren, President of the Provincial Congress, who married Mercy Otis, sister of James Otis, the brilliant champion of American rights.

We are now in Shirley Square, the town’s business center.

It may be observed that North Street and Leyden Street run parallel toward the water, Carver Street following the curve on Cole’s Hill connecting with both streets at the north and south sides of the hill. Middle Street, starting at Main, runs between North and Leyden Streets and ends at the hill.

To those who have not visited Plymouth in recent years, the transition of Court and North Streets from their quiet residential charm, to avenues of commercial enterprise, will be noticeable. It is the inevitable contribution to expansion and progress.

Let us turn right here and proceed north on Court Street. A few steps takes us to the Plymouth County Court House and the Registry of Deeds.

The Plymouth County Court House stands between North and South Russell Streets with its wide expanse of lawn extending to Court Street. From here one looks down Brewster Street to the harbor. On the northerly corner of Brewster and Court Streets is the Methodist Church. On the southerly corner, the home of the Old Colony Club.

The Court House was erected in 1820 and was remodeled in 1857. It contains, beside the court rooms, accommodations for the various county offices.

During recent years the houses on the south side of South Russell Street running westerly from School Street have been removed and Burial Hill has been extended to the corner. This change brings the historic hill into view across the Court House lawn as one approaches from the north.

THE REGISTRY OF DEEDS

On North Russell Street stands the Registry of Deeds, a fireproof building erected in 1904. To the antiquarian and those interested in historical data, this building would rank next to Pilgrim Hall, if not first in importance. It contains papers of unusual interest, including many signed by Pilgrim hands, as well as those bearing the identifying signs or marks of the native Indians.

There are deeds in the native language, Gov. Bradford’s order for trial by jury, various laws pertaining to the guidance of the colony and of the division of land, including a plan of the laying out of the first street (now Leyden Street).

The second patent, dated 1629, granted by the Earl of Warwick, may be seen in the original box in which it came from England.

The distribution of milk from the cows imported from England is even provided for. This was a matter of much concern as the supply was short and the demand great, to which these papers bear attest. The Registry of Probate occupies the second floor of the building.