Part 9

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Plain (with finish). { 3. Brocades. { 4. Brocades (with finish). { 5. Striped or Spotted Shirting. 2. White Cottons. { 6. Striped or Spotted Shirting { (with finish). { 7. Crimps and Crapes. { 8. Crimps and Crapes (with { finish). { 9. Lenos. { 10. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Plain (with finish). { 3. Furnitures. { 4. Crapes. { 5. Crimps. 3. Printed Cottons. { 6. Muslins, Lawns, and Cambrics. { 7. Lenos and Balzarines. { 8. Duplex or Reversible. { 9. Blue and White _T_-Cloth. { 10. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Plain (with finish). { 3. Crimps. { 4. Crimps (with finish). { 5. Drills, Twills, and Jeans. 4. Dyed Plain Cottons. { 6. Lawns, Muslins, and Cambrics. { 7. Hongkong-dyed. { 8. Lenos and Balzarines. { 9. Native. { 10. Native (with finish). { 11. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Figured. { 2. Figured (with finish). 5. Dyed Figured Cottons { 3. Native. { 4. Native (with finish). { 5. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Dyed. { 3. Printed. { 4. Duplex Printed. 6. Raised Cottons. { 5. Dyed and Printed. { 6. Dyed and Duplex Printed. { 7. Yarn-dyed. { 8. Figured White. { 9. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Plain (with finish). { 3. Figured. { 4. Figured (with finish). 7. Coloured Woven { 5. Crimps. (_i.e._, yarn-dyed) { 6. Crimps (with finish). Cottons { 7. Plain Native. { 8. Plain Native (with finish). { 9. Figured Native. { 10. Figured Native (with finish). { 11. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Plain (with finish). { 3. Crimps. { 4. Crimps (with finish). 8. Dyed and Printed Cottons { 5. Figured. { 6. Figured (with finish). { 7. Native. { 8. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Printed or Embossed. 9. Velvets and Velveteens { 3. Embroidered. (Cotton). { 4. Dyed Cords and Corduroys. { 5. Undyed Moleskins. { 6. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain Pure Silk. { 2. Figured or Embossed. { 3. Silk Seal (with cotton back). { 4. Silk with cotton back. 10. Plushes and Velvets { 5. Silk mixed with other fibrous { materials (with cotton { back). { 6. All-cotton Plush (including { with finish). { 7. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Figured. { 3. Plain Native. 11. Silk Piece Goods { 4. Figured Native. { 5. Ribbons (all silk and mixtures). { 6. Not specially enumerated.

12. Silk and Cotton Fabrics { 1. Plain. { 2. Figured.

{ 1. Plain. { 2. Figured. { 3. Poncho Cloth. 13. Woollen and Cotton { 4. Spanish Stripes. Mixtures { 5. Union Cloth. { 6. Plain Lustres. { 7. Figured Lustres. { 8. Not specially enumerated.

{ 1. Habit, Medium, Russian, and { Broad Cloth. { 2. Bunting. { 3. Camlets, Dutch. 14. Woollen Fabrics { 4. Camlets, English. { 5. Flannel. { 6. Lastings (all kinds). { 7. Spanish Stripes. { 8. Long Ells. { 9. Not specially enumerated.

15. Linen and Linen Unions { 1. Plain. { 2. Figured.

16. Hemp and Hemp Mixtures { 1. Plain and Figured. { 2. Yarn-dyed.

17. Miscellaneous.

Whether the loose-leaf system with folders to contain the samples is used or whether they are entered into special books is a matter for the individual, but the loose-leaf or card-index system with folder is infinitely preferable, admitting of the removal of any given sample for reference or comparison. The index to such a collection of samples would be alphabetical (even though not absolutely so), and if a sample of Italian (of the plain variety) were added to the collection, it would be added under section 4, Dyed Plain Cottons. If the sample of Italian thus added to the collection was the fifth sample of Dyed Plain Cottons (with finish), it would appear in the index to the sample collection under 1 and would be entered as follows:--

NAME OF FABRIC. SECTION SUB-SECTION SAMPLE NUMBER. NUMBER. NUMBER. ---- ---- ---- ---- Italian 4 2 5

A sample of Bunting, on the other hand, would be filed under section 14, sub-section 2; and if it were the thirty-first sample filed under that sub-section, it would be indexed under the letter B as Bunting, 14: 2: 31.

This decimal system of numbering and classifying samples lends itself to a refinement of subdivision unattainable in any other.

Generally speaking, samples, unless accompanied by certain descriptive information, are of little value, and care should be taken to describe briefly any salient feature connected with the fabric. This information may concern either the trade-mark, the importer, the value, or the date when the sample was entered into the collection, and brief particulars of the shipment of which it is a sample. This kind of information is of material value where the sample concerns a class, style, or quality of fabric not hitherto met with. With a comparatively small amount of trouble it would be possible to get together very valuable collections of samples. And if the individual would but give a little time and thought to the question of textile samples, and but a tithe of the time devoted to any hobby he may have, he will be amply repaid by the added knowledge he will acquire. All samples should be of uniform size (7 inches by 4 inches will be found a very useful size) and should invariably be in duplicate--one to use in obtaining all particulars necessary for classification and the other for the actual sample collection. Weave structure, nature of yarns, etc., may be studied and tests for components made and recorded.

Nothing will give a better idea of relative values of fabrics than knowledge of components, style of weave, etc. This, of course, does not apply to extrinsic values, _i.e._, values due to fashion, exclusive designs, or proprietary articles. There is nothing to go by in such cases better than market values; but in the plainer staples knowledge of construction, finish, etc., means ability to classify fabrics and estimate their approximate relative values.

Provisions for an index to sample collection have been made at the end of this book, enabling the ready adoption of the system now advocated.

=Sateens.=--This material is a light-weight cotton fabric finished to imitate Silk Satin. In weaving Cotton Sateens the same style of weave is adopted as in weaving Silk Satin, the object aimed at being an even, close, smooth surface and one capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. In a "warp sateen" weave the warp only appears on the surface, the filling or weft threads being effectually and completely hidden by the warp threads. In passing over the filling the warps do not interweave at regular, but at irregular, intervals--thus they may pass over five, eight, ten, twelve, or sixteen, then under one and over eight more, and so on. Sateens average 30 inches wide and from 30 to 60 yards in length per piece.

Sateens are woven on the same principle as Italians. The common Sateen cloth is produced on a "five threads and picks" system. Sateens are woven either as "Warp Sateen" or "Weft Sateen"; the peculiarities of these weaves are given under those headings.

=Satin.=--A term applied to silk goods woven on the same principle as Sateens, either Warp Sateens or Weft Sateens. In weaving most silk fabrics the warp and weft, or filling, are made to intersect each other every alternate time (as in plain weaving) or every third or fourth time in regular order (as in ordinary or plain twill weaving). In weaving Satin the same style of weave is adopted as in weaving Cotton Sateens, the object aimed at being an even, close, smooth surface and one capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. In a warp-weave Satin the warp only appears on the surface, the filling or weft threads being effectually and completely hidden. In passing over the filling the warps do not interweave at regular intervals; thus, they may pass over five, eight, ten, twelve, or sixteen, then under one and over eight more, and so on. Common Satin is what is technically known as an eight-leaf twill, the order in which the filling thread rises being once in eight times. The filling in the better qualities of Satin is of silk, whilst in the lower grades of this fabric cotton is generally used for the filling. Rich Satins may be woven on almost any number from five to twenty leaf twills. Satin at the time of leaving the loom has a somewhat flossy and rough surface--this is removed by passing the fabric over heated metal cylinders, which destroy the minute fibrous ends and increase the brilliance of the silk. Black Satins are often woven with a selvedge which is of a different colour to the piece.

=Satin Drill.=--When a Drill is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave it is known as a Satin Drill, to distinguish it from a Drill woven with a twill weave, which is known as a Florentine Drill.

=Satin Weave.=--In weaving a satin design the filling thread is made to pass under one and over eight, ten, twelve, or a greater or lesser number of warp threads, and the order in which this is done is irregular. The filling by this process is thus placed practically all on the face of the cloth, and this style of weave is sometimes called a filling-face satin weave. By reversing the process and bringing practically all the warp to the surface or face of the cloth a warp-face satin is produced. Cloth produced by this system of weave has a close, smooth surface reflecting light to a high degree and giving it the appearance of Satin Cloth, a fabric which is best described as a cloth made of silk woven with a satin weave.

=Satinet or Satinette.=--An imitation of the true or Silk Satin woven from mercerised cotton or other yarns. It is similar to Sateen, but somewhat lighter in weight. The term is used to describe the four-shaft satin weave, which does not fulfil the conditions of the real Satin as regards the order of intersection of warp and weft.

=Schreiner Finish.=--This, like all other special finishes, is the result of a process through which a fabric is passed with the view of rendering its face more lustrous, _i.e._, capable of better reflecting light and hence having a more silky appearance. A Schreiner finish is given to a woven cloth by means of a specially engraved steel roller. This roller is engraved with minute lines running parallel to each other. When this roller has been suitably heated and set with the right amount of pressure the cloth is run between it and a plain backing roller. The engraved roller which comes in contact with the cloth impresses on it minute lines, which can readily be distinguished by means of a counting-glass.

In America a Schreiner finish is often known as a "milled" finish.

=Scribbled.=--When any two or more kinds of fibres have been thoroughly mixed together prior to being spun into a thread they are said to be "scribbled."

=Seamless.=--Applied to hosiery knitted in one piece on a circular machine, leaving an opening at the toe to be looped together. The shaping of the leg, heel, and toe is done by steaming and then drying on boards of proper form.

=Seamless Bags.=--All-cotton bags woven on looms which automatically measure the length of what is practically a tubular cloth required for each bag. What are virtually two cloths are "condensed" and woven together to form the bag bottom. In forming the body of the bag the loom weaves two fabrics, one over the other, and in weaving the bottom these are combined into one.

=Selvedge.=--The edge of any piece of woven fabric. The term is synonymous with "list." The warp threads which go towards the weaving of selvedges are in some cases made of a stronger material than that used for the bulk of the fabric. Folded yarns are often used for this purpose, because during the process of weaving single selvedge yarns are liable to break out oftener than any other, generally on account of the pulling action of the weft thread in the shuttle as it is "picked" across. This is more particularly the case with cottons. Selvedges are that part of the fabric by which it is held out in a stretched position in many of the stages of finishing. In the textile trade generally it is often stated that "a good selvedge shows a good cloth." Velvets and Velveteens that are mounted on iron frames, to which they are attached by means of series of hooks penetrating the selvedges, have these selvedges reinforced by stronger warp threads.

Selvedges, or lists, of a colour different but of a material similar to that of the bulk of the fabric denote that the fabric has been woven of dyed yarns and that it has not been piece-dyed. Obviously, if piece-dyed, the selvedge would be of the same colour as the bulk of the fabric. Distinctive styles of selvedges have given rise to special names of fabrics, such as Spanish Stripes. The actual quality of a fabric cannot be always told by the selvedge, but other conditions being equal, it then becomes a good guide to quality. A silk selvedge thread or threads, or the initials of the manufacturer in silk, appearing on the selvedge of an all-wool fabric generally denotes a superior quality of fabric. The following, from a work dealing with cotton fabrics, shows the generally accepted value of selvedges as an indication of quality: "Advertising has educated the retail dealers and consumers to the fact that cotton warp goods with a white selvedge, the ground being of colour, are more to be depended upon not to crock than similar cloths of solid colour."

=Serge (Cotton).=--All all-cotton fabric woven with a decided twill and having a special finish imitating wool; usually printed with hair-line stripes to imitate woven effects.

=Shadow Cretonne.=--A fabric of comparatively recent creation having as a distinctive feature the design printed on the warp threads. The filling is generally white, but is sometimes yarn-dyed to a shade approximating the general tone of the large floral decorations which are generally used in this class of fabric. The warp threads take the colouring matter in such a way that when woven the design or pattern appears equally on both sides of the fabric in somewhat blurred and softened tones. From the fact that the fabric is reversible, _i.e._, shows a design on both sides, it has sometimes been called a Reversible Cretonne, but the true Reversible Cretonne is the result of printing on a woven fabric and not on the warp threads only prior to weaving. The blurred effect, resembling that of a fabric which might have run in the washing, is at times intensified by the introduction here and there of yarn-dyed warp threads of solid colour. They are not always an all-cotton fabric; flax enters sometimes into their composition.

=Shantung.=--The real Shantung is a Chinese silk fabric of the Pongee class. This fabric has now been imitated in cotton yarns suitably finished. The yarns used in imitation Shantung are spun with thick soft places at irregular intervals in the yarn; this irregularity is more noticeable in the filling yarns.

=Sheeting.=--A light or medium weight plain-woven all-cotton fabric woven from coarse or medium yarns. The name applies to both bleached and unbleached cloth. Under the heading "Grey Sheeting" will be found a description of the two distinct varieties of fabric known as Sheeting. In the trade it would appear that, should a Sheeting be dyed or printed, it is never sold as a Sheeting, but under some other name.

=Shirtings.=--A generic term applied to any material originally and usually employed for the making of shirts and covering such varieties as Grey, Harvard, Oxford, Zephyr, Sateen, Grandelle, etc. The term Shirting, if used by itself, would in most instances be used with reference to the Grey Shirting so largely exported from England and America. This Grey Shirting is a plain-woven cloth of low-quality and heavily sized yarns which has not been bleached.

=Short Stick.=--This term implies a yard of precisely 36 inches, in opposition to the term "long stick," which is by trade custom a yard of 36½ inches in length.

=Shot.=--A weaving term having the same value as "pick." When a fabric is described as having so many "shots" to the inch it means that there are so many weft threads to the inch. When used to describe a colour effect in fabrics, it applies to fabrics which are woven with different coloured warp and weft, and which, according to the way they are held when looked at, appear to change in colour.

=Sicilienne.=--A Mohair of heavy weight.

=Silence Cloth.=--A heavy all-cotton backed fabric, used to cover the table under the linen cloth, to withstand heat or to prevent damage to the finish of the table. Made in widths from 54 to 64 inches. The fabric is a double fabric, reversible, and made from coarse yarns; it is also known as Table Felting.

=Silesia.=--A cotton fabric woven with a twill or sateen weave, usually printed in stripes and highly finished. The high finish found in this class of fabric is often a "Beetle" finish imparted to the fabric after weaving by subjecting it to a rapid succession of elastic blows from a series of hammers whilst the fabric is wound upon a cast-iron beam. Generally woven as a three-shaft twill from single 30's to 40's in warp and filling so as to produce a 45-degree right-hand twill. Silesia is essentially a tailoring fabric used for linings. A variety of yarn-dyed striped Silesia is also on the market.

=Silk Beaver.=--Silk Beaver is a pile fabric woven so as to imitate the prepared fur of the beaver. Like many other fabrics of this style the pile is all silk and the foundation cloth or back is all cotton. This fabric appears to be dyed invariably a rich brown, and this differentiates it from such similar fabrics as Silk Seal, which are dyed black. The quality of Silk Beaver depends upon the depth and closeness of pile. If looked at from behind, the pile threads will distinctly show as small shiny spots where they are bound into the back. The closer these little silk dots are to each other the heavier the pile and the better the quality. The value prior to 1914 ranged from 5_s._ to 12_s._ per yard but has since increased. The pile may have a length of as much as half an inch in the best grades. Generally framed in lengths of from 30 to 33 yards. As this is bulky material when framed, the landed cost in the East is greatly increased. Average width, 48 to 50 inches.

=Silk Gingham.=--This class of fabric is similar to Gingham, Madras, Madras Gingham, Zephyr, etc., except that the fabric contains more or less silk in the filling. It sometimes happens that through inadvertence such material is found described simply as a Gingham, hence the presence of silk should be looked for in goods so described.

=Silk Mull.=--Like Mull, this fabric is a plain-woven, soft-finished material, but is made from cotton warp and silk filling and is generally finished undyed. Silk Mull is finer in texture than Cotton Mull. The silk filling used in this fabric is raw silk, viz., tram silk.

=Silk Pongee.=--A light-weight fabric made of the silk produced by wild silkworms that feed on oak leaves.

Pongee is a soft, unbleached, washable silk, shipped from China to Europe in large quantities, where it is bleached, dyed, and ornamented in various styles of designs. The name is also applied to a variety of dress goods made in Europe woven with a wild-silk warp and a fine worsted weft. This material is of comparatively recent make and is made mostly with narrow stripes, produced by the insertion of certain yarn-dyed threads.

=Silk Seal (Cotton Back).=--This is an imitation fur fabric made in a range of quality, length, and closeness of pile. In this fabric the pile only is of silk, the foundation cloth being all cotton.

Silk Seal might be mistaken for Silk Beaver if not judged from the point of view of colour. Silk Seal is black, Silk Beaver is brown. There is a variety of this fabric known as a Fancy Silk Seal, similar in construction and components but having stamped in outline by means of rollers a design resembling the irregular scales on a crocodile's skin. Along the lines demarcating these scales the pile has been crushed and fixed down by heat. This fabric is not a true Silk Seal. Quality in this, as in other pile fabrics, depends on the closeness and depth of the pile. There is a possibility of mistaking Silk Seal with cotton back for a Silk Plush with cotton back, but generally the pile of Plush is shorter than that of Silk Seal. Average width, 48 to 50 inches.

=Silk Yarns.=--There are two distinct classes of silk yarns, _i.e._, (_a._) pure, or net, silk and (_b._) spun silk.

(_a._) _Net Silk Yarns._--These are constructed from fibres reeled straight from the cocoon, and in the case of organzine (or warp) yarns three to eight fibres are lightly twisted together; subsequently, two or more of these compound threads ("singles" as they are termed) are folded together to form the silk yarn employed as warp. Weft yarns, known as tram silk, are made from two or more strands, each made from three to twelve cocoon fibres, which have not undergone any preliminary twisting, so that tram silk is much straighter, softer, and more lustrous than organzine.