Part 5

=Folded Yarn.=--Folded Yarn is produced by twisting together two or more single yarns. When two single threads are twisted together the Folded Yarn produced would be called a "two-fold." If the single yarn used in producing the "two-fold" yarn was of 40's count (that is to say, of yarn of which it took 40 hanks of 840 yards to weigh 1 pound), the "two-fold" yarn produced would really become equivalent to 20's count (that is to say, it would take 20 hanks to weigh 1 pound); however, it would not be referred to as being a 20's count, but as a two-fold forties and designated 2/40's. All Folded Yarns are designated by two sets of figures separated by a line, which shows on one side the number of threads folded together and on the other the "count" of the single threads thus folded together. By dividing the number of the single threads into the counts the actual number of hanks of the Folded Yarn per pound is ascertained thus:--

Two-fold 40's, written 2/40 = 20 folded hanks per pound. Three-fold 30's, " 3/30 = 10 " " " " Three-fold 60's, " 3/60 = 20 " " " " Four-fold 60's, " 4/60 = 15 " " " " Four-fold 120's, " 4/120 = 30 " " " "

All Folded Yarn is not composed of single threads of the same count. Where such Folded Yarns are met with, and when it is desired to ascertain the number of hanks of such Folded Yarn per pound, the simplest way to proceed is to take the highest count and divide it first by itself and the other counts in succession, then divide the sum of the various quotients into the highest count, and the answer will be hanks per pound:--

30 ÷ 30 = 1 30 ÷ 20 = 1½ -- 2½ ) 30 -- 12 Answer. --

In folding yarn part of the length of the original threads folded is taken up in the twist; hence, when folded, they will no longer measure the regulation 840 yards per hank, but slightly under.

=Foulard.=--A soft twilled silk, usually printed.

=French Foot.=--A hosiery term meaning having only one seam, and that in the centre of the sole.

=Full Regular= (sometimes called Looped).--A term applied to hosiery or underwear in which the seams have been connected by hand knitting.

=Full-fashioned.=--A term used to designate hosiery knitted in a flat web, which is shaped by the machine so as to fit the foot, leg, or body. The webs, or sections, are sewn together to form hosiery, underwear, etc.

=Fustian.=--This name is given to designate low grades of cotton fabrics woven with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, Corduroys, Moleskins, Cordings, etc. Fustian is also applied to such fabrics when they are made in a combination of cotton and flax or other vegetable fibre. It is more used as a generic term designating a class of fabrics than to designate one particular kind of fabric. One class of Fustians has a raised "nap" on one or both sides, and includes Cantoons or Diagonals, which have a pronounced weft twill on the face side and are used for riding breeches.

=Galatea.=--A cotton fabric having coloured stripes; the weave is usually a three-shaft, but sometimes a four-shaft, warp twill weave. The stripes may be either simply coloured, whilst retaining the twill weave, or they may be plain woven as well as coloured. This material is often used for washing uniforms for nurses and hospital attendants. The weave of Galatea is similar to that of Jean, Nankeen, or Regatta Twill.

=Gauge.=--Applied to the number of meshes or wales to the inch in underwear or hosiery. For example, a 16-gauge fabric will have 16 wales or ribs to the inch.

=Gauze Weave.=--In gauze weaving all the warp threads are not parallel to each other, but are made to intertwist more or less amongst themselves. This style of weaving produces light, open fabrics allowing the introduction of many lace-like combinations. The warp is double, one set being the usual or ground warp and the other the "douping," or warp that intertwines itself on the ground warp. Gauze weaving produces fabrics which are peculiar for their openness, lightness, and strength. When gauze is combined with plain weaving it is styled "Leno."

=Gingham.=--Gingham is an all-cotton fabric, always woven with a plain weave--a yarn-dyed cotton cloth in stripes or checks. It is woven in various grades, having from 50 to 76 ends per inch in the reed and of 1/26's to 1/40's cotton yarn in both warp and weft. It is a washing fabric made in both checks and plaid patterns, into which a great variety of colour combinations are introduced. Ginghams are made with from two colour warp and filling to eight colour in warp and six in filling. During the finishing process the loom-state fabric is sewed end on piece to piece until a continuous length of cloth of several hundred yards is obtained (this is done to facilitate handling). It is damped by a sprinkler to make it more readily take up the starch size with which it is liberally treated. One variety of Gingham known as Madras Gingham is distinctly a Shirting fabric. Ginghams, when having a highly variegated colouring, are described as Checks.

=Glacé.=--Originally applied to a fabric having a glossy, lustrous surface. Now often applied to "shot" silks, that is, plain weaves wherein the warp and filling are of different colours.

=Granité.=--A weave in which the yarns are so twisted as to create a pebbled surface.

=Grenadine.=--A somewhat elastic term used to describe an openwork, diaphanous material of silk, wool, or cotton.

=Grey, in the Grey, or Grey Cloth.=--These terms are used to designate fabrics that are in the loom state and that have been woven from yarn that was neither bleached nor dyed. A Grey Shirting would no longer be called a Grey Shirting after it had been bleached. In the woollen industry the term "grey" is applied to the web in its loom state previous to its being put through the various necessary processes to make it into a finished cloth.

=Grey Drills.=--Grey Cotton Drills are all-cotton medium and heavy weight single cloths woven from unbleached yarns as a three-shaft twill (two warp and one weft) which have not been bleached, dyed, or printed from the time they left the loom. Varying in weight according to quality, they are, however, generally put up in pieces measuring 31 inches in width by 40 yards in length. They are more fully described under Drills.

The Pepperell Drill is a Grey Drill of superior quality made from high-class yarns and exceedingly well woven.

=Grey Jeans.=--This name is given to an all-cotton fabric woven as a three-shaft twill having either (_a_) each weft thread passing over one and under two warp threads, or (_b_) each weft thread passing over two and under one warp thread, the warp and weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective positions each time a pick of weft is inserted.

When woven as a warp-faced twill fabric from strong yarns, the cloth is often called a Drill, and is used for suitings, boot linings, corseting, etc; when woven from lighter yarns as a medium-weight weft-faced twill fabric, the cloth is largely used for linings. In width it varies from 28 and under to 31 or more inches and in length from 30 to 40 yards per piece. A "Grey" Jean is a Jean in the loom state, _i.e._, which has not been bleached by being treated with bleaching powders, etc.

=Grey Sheeting.=--There are two distinct varieties of Grey Sheeting. The first kind is used for bed sheeting and is a stout cotton cloth woven from coarse yarns, usually in a four-shaft two-and-two twill weave, and having a width of as much as 120 inches. The weave of this material being a twill weave having an equal number of warp and weft threads to the inch, the twill lines or diagonal produced will be at an angle of 45 degrees to a line drawn across the width of the material. This diagonal effect is produced by the warp and weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective positions each time a pick or weft is inserted. This kind of Sheeting is known as Bolton Sheeting, which is a grey material, _i.e._, unbleached. In length the piece may measure up to 80 yards. The second kind of Sheeting is Waste Sheeting, made from waste and condenser wefts, _i.e._, wefts made from certain waste cotton which accumulates during the process of spinning yarn. This waste is treated by special machinery, which prepares it and spins it into a full, level, and soft yarn, which is used for weft in the weaving of Sheetings. Waste Sheetings are woven like Bolton Sheeting, with the exception of the lower qualities, which are often plain or calico woven. The lower grades of Grey Sheeting are often simply grey Calico cloths of about 36 inches in width and resembling very closely Grey Shirtings, the only difference being that they are slightly heavier in the yarn than the ordinary Grey Shirting. Grey Sheeting is generally made up into pieces of from 40 to 80 yards in length and varying in weight according to count of yarn used.

=Grey Shirting.=--A Grey Shirting is an unbleached cotton cloth woven with a plain weave and having the warp and weft approximately equal in number of threads and counts; the fabric has a plain, even surface, which, when the threads are evenly spaced, is said to be well "covered." Grey Shirting, a staple import into the Eastern markets, is made up in pieces measuring from 36 to 40 yards in length, a width of from 36 to 45 inches, and weighing from 7 to 11 pounds and over per piece, according to the count of the yarn and the amount of size used. This class of fabric has the warp threads heavily sized. The exact difference between Grey Shirtings and certain grades of Grey Sheetings is at times non-apparent. Again, a Grey Shirting may be termed a Calico, which in the trade has become a general term used to designate practically any cotton cloth coarser than Muslin.

=Grey T-Cloths.=--All-cotton plain-woven unbleached fabric of low quality and heavily sized yarns nearly always put up in 24-yard lengths. The name is said to be derived from the mark @T@ of the original exporters.

=Grosgrain.=--A silk fabric having a small ribbed effect from selvedge to selvedge. When the rib runs lengthways the fabric is known as a Millerayes.

=Habit Cloth (Woollen).=--An all-wool cloth similar to Medium, Broad, and Russian Cloth. Average width, 54 to 74 inches. In the better grades it is a high-priced fabric generally used for riding habits. Met with in dark shades of green or else in black.

=Habutai.=--A plain-weave silk, of smooth and even texture, originally made in Japan on hand looms.

=Hair-cord Muslin.=--A plain-weave fabric having stripes or checks formed by coarse threads, which stand out in a clearly defined manner.

=Hand Looms and Power Looms.=--The difference between these two kinds of looms lies in the fact that in the former (hand loom) the weaving is the result of the loom being worked and controlled by hand and foot, whereas in the power loom, whether belt driven or driven by electric motor, the power transmitted to the loom works all the essential parts, which are:--

1. Warp beam. 2. Heddles. 3. Shuttle. 4. Reed or beater-in. 5. Cloth roll.

When a power loom has been suitably tuned up, _i.e._, timed so that the various movements necessary for the forming of the "shed" and the passing of the shuttle and the beating-in occur in the right sequence and at a correct interval of time, the weaver (who, in the case of power looms, is oftener called the overlooker) only has to attend to the broken warp threads or replenishing of the weft shuttle. With a hand loom the weaver controls the heddles which form the shed, throws the shuttle carrying the weft thread through the shed, and as fast as each filling thread is interlaced with the warp beats it in close to the previous one by means of a reed which is pulled by hand towards, and recedes from, the cloth after each passage of the shuttle. This is done to make the cloth firm. The movement of the reed in the hand-power loom (or, more correctly, in the hand and foot power loom) being controlled by the weaver and not mechanically, accounts for irregularity in firmness of weave not found in fabrics woven on a power loom.

=Handle.=--This term is used either as a "wool term" in connexion with wool or as a general textile term in connexion with fabrics. As a wool term it refers or designates all the attributes which determine quality, _i.e._, softness, fineness, length, and elasticity--noticeable when wool is judged by the feel. Easier to define than to acquire, "handle" also enters into the judging of woven fabrics. It is then used to denote the hardness, harshness, softness, smoothness, etc., which similarly are factors of quality and which are often best appreciated by the sense of touch.

=Harvard Shirting.=--This style of Shirting is generally recognised by its broken twill effect, which may be combined with plain stripes, small diamond patterns, etc., woven from dyed yarns. The salient feature of Harvard Shirtings is the above effect in different colours. The ground weave is generally a two-and-two twill.

=Henrietta.=--A soft, lustrous, twilled fabric of wool; similar to a Cashmere, but finer and lighter.

=Herring-bone.=--A binding often used in facing the neck and front opening of undershirts. Also applied to the stitching which is made to cover the edge of the split sole in hosiery. Used in connexion with textiles, it is applied to striped effects produced by alternating a left-hand and a right-hand twill-weave stripe.

=Hessian.=--A strong, coarse, plain-woven packing or wrapping cloth made from jute or hemp yarns. A standard make of this material weighs 10½ ounces to the yard, is 40 inches wide, and averages 13 shots per inch.

=Hog, Or Hoggett Wool=, is another name for lambs' wool; it is the product of the first clipping of the young sheep and can be distinguished by the fact that its ends are pointed, whereas subsequent clippings yield wether wool with blunt and thickened ends.

=Honeycomb.=--This designates a style of weave and not an actual fabric. Marked ridges and hollows, which cause the surface of the fabric to resemble that of a honeycomb, are the salient characteristics of this style of weave. The term is also applied to leno weaves when consecutive crossing ends cross in opposite directions.

=Huckaback.=--This name designates a class of weave mainly used in the weaving of towels or Towelling, which combines a small design with a plain ground. The short floats of warp and weft and the plain ground of these weaves give a rough surface combined with a firm structure. The small design entering into this class of weave varies, but is always a geometrical design and not floral.

=Imitation Rabbit Skin.=--Generally an all-cotton pile-weave fabric having a long pile, which has not the same amount of lustre as either a silk or mohair pile, being duller in appearance. This kind of fabric may be distinguished from a silk or mohair pile material by the fact that its pile will crush more readily than either. Its pile will not spring back into place readily, more especially when the pile is long. Generally 48 to 50 inches wide and 60 yards long, it is shipped on frames, on which it is fastened by a series of hooks. These hooks hold the material by the selvedges, which are made specially strong. Two 60-yard frames are generally packed in one box or case.

=Ingrain.=--A term for knitted goods applied to raw material or yarn dyed before knitting.

=Irishes.=--This generic name is applied to linen fabrics, which are a speciality of Ireland. Irishes have been imitated in cotton, and when such a fabric is met with it should be designated as a Cotton Irish. The term Irishes would cover such fabrics as Irish Cambric, Irish Duck, and Irish Linen.

=Irish Cambric.=--This fabric, like all true Cambrics, is an all-linen fabric, plain woven, without a selvedge. It has been imitated in cotton, and the name is now currently used to designate an all-cotton plain-woven fabric finer than lawn, in which the warp yarn is often of a different thickness from that used for the filling and is finished with a smooth glazed surface.

=Italian Cloth.=--A plain cloth generally made of standard materials, _i.e._, fine Botany weft and a cotton warp. Italian cloth is usually a weft-faced fabric. Like all fabrics woven with a weft-faced satin weave, the weft or filling threads are practically all on the surface of the cloth, producing an even, close, smooth surface capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. Italian cloth is generally cross-dyed, that is to say, woven from a black warp and grey weft, afterwards dyed in the piece. It may be woven either as an all-cotton, a cotton and worsted, a cotton and wool, or a cotton and mohair fabric. Its chief characteristic is its smooth, glossy, silky appearance obtained by various processes of finishing given to the cloth after it is woven. All finishes have the same tendency and purpose, which is to improve the appearance and enhance the value of the cloth. Whilst Italian Cloth may be either plain, figured, embossed, printed, etc., or a combination of these varieties, the name is applied to a "plain dyed cotton fabric."

=Italian Cloth, Figured, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft.=--This fabric, in addition to the characteristics of the plain Italian Cloth woven from cotton warp and wool weft, has had its surface ornamented by the introduction of figures or floral or geometrical designs produced either by combination of weave or by means of certain extra threads known as "figuring threads." These figures may be produced by means of either extra warp or extra weft threads. In this class of material, where the weft is wool, the extra figuring thread is generally a weft thread. The figuring thread, after having served the purpose of ornamenting the face of the cloth, is allowed to lie loosely or "float" underneath the ground cloth structure. Where the figuring is produced by combination of weave no such floating threads appear.

=Italian Cloth, Plain, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft.=--Under the heading "Italian Cloth" it will be seen that such a fabric is essentially a weft-faced satin-weave material having practically the whole of the weft or filling threads on the surface. When it is woven from a wool weft and a cotton warp the material shows the face of the cloth as a wool face, the main bulk of the cotton warp showing on the back of the fabric. When woven with cotton warp and wool weft, Italian Cloth still retains the characteristic smooth surface of all weft-faced satin-weave fabrics. Very simple tests by burning will show the nature of both warp and weft, and this class of fabric illustrates clearly, by contrast between the two sets of threads, the nature of weft-faced satin or kindred weave fabrics. Such Italians are generally cross-dyed, _i.e._, woven with dyed warp and grey weft, and then piece-dyed.

=Jaconet.=--There are two varieties of Jaconets, both of which, however, are all-cotton fabrics. One is a hard-finished fabric similar in weight to Victoria Lawn, having a smooth, lustrous, Cambric finish. The other is a soft-finished material which can hardly be distinguished from a heavy soft-finished Nainsook. Jaconet is a plain-woven fabric which has been variously described as a "thin, soft Muslin," or as a "plain-woven cotton fabric lightly constructed, composed of light yarns." Bleached, dyed, or printed in the grey piece length, similar to Mulls, Nainsooks, Cambrics, etc. It is also spelt Jaconettes.

=Jacquards= is a loose term applied to elaborate designed fabrics produced by means of a machine called a Jacquard, the distinctive feature of which is an apparatus for automatically selecting warp threads and moving them independently of each other. Jacquards are the produce of what is termed figure weaving, in which complicated figures are woven into the fabric.

=Jaeger.=--This name is used to designate the products of a certain manufacturer whose material is described as being an "all-wool" material. Generally applied to underwear and fabrics into whose composition camel wool is said to enter largely.

=Jean.=--A Jean is an all-cotton fabric woven as a three-shaft twill similar to a Dungaree. Good-quality Jeans, woven from coloured warp, are often used as sailors' collars and for children's clothing. Woven in the grey as a weft-faced twill and subsequently dyed, they are used for lining cloths. The weave of a Jean fabric, which is its salient characteristic, is described under "Grey Jeans," which is the kind of Jean most often met with.

=Jeanette.=--A three-shaft weft twill fabric having warp and weft threads about equally proportioned in number and thickness.

The name "Jeanette backed" is applied to certain pile fabrics that have a three-end twill back.

Applied to a cotton material, it would correspond to a Jean type fabric not as stoutly woven as a Jean. One authority, however, claims that it is "a similar fabric to the Jean in which the warp predominates."

=Jouy.=--Printings in small floral effects on silk or cotton, similar to Pompadour designs. Named after a Frenchman who established a plant for such work during the reign of Louis XV.

=Kerseymere.=--Seldom met with under this name. Kerseymere is a fine woollen cloth of a serge-like character, woven with a three-shaft weft-faced twill weave.

=Khaiki.=--A Japanese silk of plain weave, not so fine as Habutai.

=Khaki.=--A colour resembling that of the ground. This word is derived from the Hindustani word for "earth." A term applied to a special shade of brown or greenish brown largely employed in soldiers' uniforms.

Ladies' Cloth.--A dress fabric of plain weave, similar to a Flannel in construction, but with a high-finished surface, which gives the fabric a Broadcloth effect.

=Lappet Weave.=--Lappet weaving is used to produce on a light fabric small designs which have the appearance of having been embroidered upon the fabric, such as the detached spots in dotted Swiss, or narrow and continuous figures running more or less in stripes. This form of weaving is used mainly on plain and gauze fabrics, and the figures are practically stitched into the fabric by means of needles in a special sliding frame. The yarn which produces the figured design is an extra warp thread known as a "whip yarn." Lappet weaving produces the design on one side only of the fabric, and this feature will enable this style of weave to be recognised from other processes, such as Swiss Embroidery. The loose threads existing between the figures when the goods leave the loom are usually cut away, leaving a somewhat imperfect figure or spot with a bit of the figuring thread protruding at either extreme edge of the figure or spot. Lappet-figured fabrics are not Brocades.

=Lastings.=--A plain twill or kindred weave fabric firmly woven from hard-twisted wool or cotton yarns. Smooth in appearance but having a somewhat hard handle, Lasting is a fine, durable, generally piece-dyed, material, of which there are several varieties, such as the Printed and the Figured. It is sometimes employed in the making of uppers for boots and shoes.

=Leas.=--A term used to denote the count of linen yarn, each lea being a measure of length equal to 300 yards. When used with reference to cotton yarn, it is a measure of length equal to 4,320 inches, or 120 yards. _See under_ Cotton Yarn Measures.