Part 4

=Dyed Figured Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all such fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) are figured by having any design, large or small, woven or embossed, on their surface, (_c_) are dyed in any colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the style of finish. The ribs or reps of such fabrics, which are known as "Reps" or "Ribs," do not in themselves constitute figures. Printing produces a style of ornamentation which does not rightly belong to this class of goods, in which it must only be the result of weaving or embossing.

=Dyed Figured Cotton Italians.=--This name is used to designate an all-cotton fabric having the characteristic even, close, smooth surface of the plain Italian Cloth, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., this figuring having been produced either by means of extra threads, or by combining the warp and weft threads, or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a "dyed" fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom.

=Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings.=--This fabric is essentially an all-cotton twill or kindred weave material firmly woven from hard-twisted yarn, which has been figured or ornamented in the weaving by the introduction of a small floral or geometrical design. The fabric, being a "dyed fabric," is piece-dyed. Like Plain Lastings, this material enters largely into the manufacture of uppers for boots and shoes.

=Dyed Figured Cotton Reps.=--This name is used to designate an all-cotton material which is primarily a Rep fabric. It combines the prominent reps or ribs running transversely across the face of the cloth, which is the distinctive feature of a Plain Rep fabric, with certain small figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., which are introduced for the purpose of ornamentation. This figuring may be produced either by means of extra threads on the surface of the cloth, by the mode of interlacing the warp and the weft threads on the surface of the cloth, or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. This kind of material averages 32 inches in width and 32 yards in length per piece.

=Dyed Figured Ribs.=--This name is used to designate a fabric which is primarily a rib material having the characteristic rep or rib running from selvedge to selvedge, or, in some cases, lengthways of the fabric, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical designs. This ornamentation constitutes the figuring and is produced either by means of extra threads or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. A Dyed Figured Cotton Rib would be an all-cotton material with an average width of 32 inches and averaging 32 yards to the piece.

=Dyed Fustians.=--Fustians embrace two classes of finished goods, some of which are characterised in finishes by a nap raised on the fabric, such as Moleskins, Beaverteens, etc. The other class comprises cut pile fabrics, variously known in the trade by distinctive names, such as Velveteen and Corduroy. Fustians are essentially all-cotton fabrics. Dyed Fustians are piece-dyed fabrics and not woven from coloured yarns.

=Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds.=--The fabric of which this class of goods is an imitation is generally a twill-faced all-cotton cloth piece-dyed with a cochineal dye, which is fast to light and washing. The Dyed Imitation Turkey Red is similar in construction of fabric, but depends for its colouring upon a chemical or synthetic dye which, while it resembles cochineal, has not the same qualities of fastness.

Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds are piece-dyed fabrics averaging in width 32 inches and in length 25 yards per piece. Fabrics coming under this heading are invariably plain, _i.e._, unornamented either through weave combination, printing, or embossing.

=Dyed in the Piece or Piece-dyed.=--These terms virtually explain themselves. When a fabric is impregnated with a uniform colour over its whole surface it is said to be dyed in the piece or piece-dyed.

Piece-dyeing is open to produce cloud spots, stains, etc., which would not appear if the yarn had been dyed previously to being woven, for in that case even if the yarn had in parts got stained it would not show as a clearly defined stain in the fabric once woven. Piece-dyed fabrics may sometimes be distinguished from yarn-dyed fabrics by unravelling threads of each kind. In the case of yarn-dyed fabrics, the dyestuff has penetrated through the yarn, while in the case of piece-dyed fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of penetrating yarn as completely. The term "dyed in the grey" (_see under_ Union Cloth) has a similar meaning to "dyed in the piece" or "piece-dyed."

=Dyed Lawns= are plain-woven light-weight cotton fabrics of soft finish which have been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with a uniform colour over their whole surface after leaving the loom. They vary in weight from 1¼ to 2¼ ounces per square yard and in width from 27 to 46 inches. They answer to descriptions of White Lawns (which see), and differ from them only in regard to the fact that they are piece-dyed.

=Dyed Lenos.=--This fabric or class of fabric is an all-cotton material woven with a gauze and Leno weave and subsequently piece-dyed. The description of Leno fabrics given in a United States Government publication reads: "A term frequently used where various weaves or combination of weaves also have warp threads crossing over one or more warp threads instead of lying parallel to one another throughout the fabric. The warp threads which thus appear in a zig-zag way either on the surface or closely interwoven in the fabric, are, in addition to interlacing with the filling threads, also crossing their neighbouring warp threads that continue in a parallel line with the selvedges."

Leno fabrics generally show stripe effects, the exception to this being the All-over Leno, which resembles in weave the ordinary Cellular Cloth.

=Dyed Leno Brocade.=--This term is used to designate a fabric woven in the Leno style, that is to say, in a combination of "gauze weaving" and any other style of weave, and the term Brocade shows that it is a figured fabric having a figure chiefly constructed by weft threads floating on the surface of the material. As in this class of fabric the threads are not dyed prior to weaving, the term "dyed" shows that the material has been dyed after it has left the loom. _See also_ Lenos.

=Dyed Muslins.=--Dyed Muslin is an all-cotton fabric of light weight, plain woven, which has been piece-dyed, _i.e._, impregnated with a uniform colour over its whole surface. There is a difficulty in describing Muslins, for the term Muslin, according to one Government publication, is "a generic term for thin plain-woven cotton cloth. The name, however, is frequently used in conjunction with such names as dotted, fancy, figured, spot, check, Swiss, etc., which in each case would denote some combination weave, or as containing stripes or checks, but the fabric still preserving a light weight." From this, however, it seems clear that a Muslin is a plain non-figured fabric of light weight.

=Dyed Plain Cottons.=--Under this heading may be grouped all such fabrics which (_a_) are made of all cotton, (_b_) have a surface which has not been ornamented by the introduction of any small figures, floral or geometrical designs, whether produced by means of extra threads or by the mode of interlacing the warp and weft threads on the surface of the cloth or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, (_c_) are dyed in any colour, and (_d_) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the style of finish.

=Dyed Plain Cotton Italians.=--The fabric answering to this description is primarily an all-cotton Italian Cloth whose surface does not show any ornamentation produced either by weaving, printing, embossing, or any other process. The fact that the fabric has been specially finished, to improve its appearance, by being mercerised, schreinered, gassed, silk or electric finished, does not alter its nature of a "plain" cloth. The fabric, being a "dyed" fabric, is one which has been coloured after leaving the loom. As Italian Cloths are generally woven from a black warp and grey weft and, after weaving, dyed in the piece, they are really "cross-dyed."

=Dyed Real Turkey Reds.=--Turkey Reds are a class of staples whose salient distinctive feature is the fact that the dye used in their manufacture is cochineal dye. Real Turkey Reds are absolutely fast dyed, the colour will not run when washed, and it will not appreciably fade when exposed to the action of the sun.

Turkey Reds are piece-dyed, that is to say, the cotton fabric is woven, generally a twill-faced cloth, and the piece is dyed. It is not woven of yarn previously dyed. There does exist a yarn dyed with turkey red; this, however, is principally used for weaving in to the ends of pieces of White Shirting or Sheeting certain distinguishing red weft threads, markings that are placed there by the manufacturer of the grey goods (1) to facilitate recognition of his goods when they come back from the bleacher, (2) to denominate quality of goods by acting as a distinctive mark, (3) to prevent the piece being cut at either end and the part cut off stolen whilst at the bleachers. This yarn is also used for markings which are to withstand washing without running. The cost of dyeing the grey or white fabric into a Turkey Red is often greater than the original value of the fabric.

=Dyed Reps= are fabrics which have as a predominant feature a rep or rib running transversely across the face of the cloth from selvedge to selvedge and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. Even without the term "dyed" being used the term Rep by itself would generally be used to designate a dyed plain cotton fabric of the Rep variety. For particulars of weave, _see under_ Rep.

=Dyed Ribs.=--Fabrics which are either warp or weft ribbed, _i.e._, having ribs running either from selvedge to selvedge as in warp ribs, or lengthways of the material as in weft ribs, and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. For particulars of distinctive weave, _see under_ Warp Ribs and Weft Ribs.

=Dyed Sheetings.=--It would appear that when a true Cotton Sheeting fabric has been dyed it is no longer known as a "Sheeting," and this is supported by the remark under the heading Sheetings which appears in a United States Government publication to the effect that "should a Sheeting be dyed or printed, it is never sold as Sheeting, but under some other name." A Dyed Sheeting would, of course, be a stout all-cotton fabric answering to the description of a Bolton Sheeting, woven from coarse yarns, as a four-shaft two-and-two twill, and measuring in width up to 120 inches; but the fabric most likely to be described as a Dyed Sheeting is the narrower variety, which is most often plain woven, measuring 36 inches by 40 to 80 yards, and slightly heavier than Shirtings of the same measurements which, subsequent to weaving, has been piece-dyed.

=Dyed Shirtings.=--The term in its narrower sense is used to designate what is virtually an all-cotton cloth, woven with a plain weave and having the warp and weft approximately equal in number of threads and counts, which has been coloured by being piece-dyed after weaving. The actual fabric, apart from the dyeing, is that of a Grey Shirting or Grey Sheeting, which are more fully described under their respective headings.

=Dyed T-Cloths.=--Piece-dyed all-cotton plain-woven fabric, woven from low-quality yarns, generally put up in 24-yard lengths.

=Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton).=--This fabric differs from Dyed Velveteen Cords only as regards the length of the pile, which is longer or deeper in Dyed Velvet Cords than in Dyed Velveteen Cords. The difference between this fabric and Corduroys is that Corduroys have perfect half-round regular pile ribs, separated by a dividing line between each stripe or pile rib, showing both warp and filling threads, whilst Velvet Cords have no such dividing line.

=Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton).=--Like the plain Velveteen, this fabric is essentially an all-cotton pile fabric in which the distinguishing effect is formed by the points of the fibres in the filling yarns, termed the pile, being presented to the vision, and not the sides of the yarns as in the majority of cases. The cords are produced by a process of cutting away the pile so as to form raised cord-like corrugations running lengthways of the piece. Being a dyed fabric, it is coloured uniformly all over the piece in some solid colour. It differs from Dyed Velvet Cords only as regards the length of pile, which in the Velveteen variety is shorter. The difference between this class of material and a Corduroy is that Corduroy has a dividing line between each stripe or cord of pile, showing both warp and filling threads, whilst Velveteen Cords have no such dividing line.

=Embossed Velvet (Cotton).=--The term Cotton Velvet is generally recognised in the manufacturing and distributing trade to be a misnomer, and the material or fabric which would appear to come under this classification is in reality an Embossed Velveteen, which see.

=Embossed Velveteen (Cotton).=--This term is used to designate an all-cotton pile-weave fabric generally woven as a weft-pile weave, the pile surface, consisting of threads or fibres in the filling yarn which forms the pile, standing up at right angles to the back of the fabric. The distinctive feature of this class of fabric is the embossed design or pattern, which is essentially an indented ornamentation produced by pressure and heat. The embossing machine for giving an indented ornamentation to Velvet or Velveteen and other fabrics has engraved copper rollers, which are heated by enclosed red-hot irons or series of gas jets when operating on dampened goods. The engraved rollers have designs in intaglio, which confer a cameo ornamentation upon the fabric being embossed.

=Embroideries.=--When applied to woven fabrics this name is used to designate a fine plain-woven cloth made from fine yarns and used for embroidery purposes. Generally a linen fabric.

=End.=--When the word "end" is used in connexion with weaving it signifies the warp threads, while each filling or weft thread is called a "pick." When used to designate a class of twill-weaving such as "a five-end twill," it refers to the total number of warp and weft threads in the twill pattern; thus, "a five-end twill" designates the interlacing of four warp and one weft. Under "Twill Weave" will be found the generally recognised ways of arranging the order of interweaving.

=English Foot.=--A stocking having two seams in the foot, one on each side of the sole.

=Eolienne.=--A sheer silk and wool material. Also in silk and cotton.

=Éponge.=--A French term for Sponge Cloth.

=Equestrienne Tights.=--Tight-fitting knitted drawers for women's use, made of ribbed cloth, either with or without feet.

=Étamine.=--French name for Bolting or Sifting Cloth, generally made of silk yarn and used for the purpose of sifting flour. The term is used in America to designate mesh or net weaves.

Étamine, though often made of silk, is found also in wool, cotton, linen, etc. Plain weave and open-work structure are its salient features. It is equally used for sifting powdered solids and filtering liquids.

=Extract= is a comprehensive term used to indicate a special class of fibres which have been obtained by "pulling" or beating to pieces material which may have been milled or unmilled, but which was partly composed of cotton, this cotton being got rid of or destroyed by the treatment which is known as carbonising.

=Extracted.=--Goods in which the pattern has been printed, first applying the design with a material which, after dyeing, permits the colour, as it affects the design, to be washed out or "extracted."

=Façonné.=--Having a figure or design raised on the surface.

=Faille.=--A soft flat-ribbed silk.

=Fancies.=--Fancy is a term used to designate those fabrics which are not woven in the same way year after year, but which show variations in weave, colour, or both colour and weave. The principal Fancies of the dress goods variety are Brocades, Cuspettes, Meliores, Hopsacking, Stripes, Checks, Plaids, Mélanges, and Mixtures.

=Fents.=--When a full-sized piece of cloth is found to be imperfectly woven in parts or damaged through stains, etc., and unsaleable as a whole piece, it is cut up into short lengths; these short lengths are called "fents." The name also is applied to short lengths cut from piece ends and is equivalent to the term "remnant." The value of fents is much less per yard than for similar cloth in the full piece.

=Figured.=--When used with reference to textiles the term "figured" means that for the purpose of ornamentation certain extra threads--known as figuring threads--have been introduced on the surface of a plain ground structure or on other ground structural weaves, and afterwards allowed to lie loosely or "float" underneath the ground cloth structure. When the extra threads introduced run lengthways in the piece the figured fabric produced is known as an "extra warp" figured cloth. When, similarly, the figured effect is obtained by the introduction of extra threads running across the face of the material, the figured fabric produced is known as an "extra weft" figured cloth. The most elaborate effects, however, are produced by means of the extra warp effects. A cloth may be figured without the addition of any extra warp or weft thread but by combination of weave.

=Figured Muslin.=--When an ordinary plain-weave fabric of the Muslin variety has been ornamented by means of combination of weave or an extra thread, whilst still retaining the characteristic light weight, etc., of the true Muslin fabric, it is known as a Figured Muslin. Unless specially designated, a Figured Muslin would be an all-cotton fabric.

=Figure Weaving.=--When complicated and elaborate designs are required the cloth must be woven with the aid of a Jacquard, which is an apparatus for automatically selecting warp threads and manipulating them to facilitate the passage of the filling. This style of weave produces figured effects on the face of the fabric and is generally used to produce patterns of great width. Such figured and elaborate designs are classed under the name of Jacquards.

=Filled Cotton Cloth.=--This form of cloth has the interstices between the threads filled with glue, china clay, white lead, chalk, plaster of paris, glauber salts, glucose, or other filling substances.

=Filling.=--This term is given to the process of adding weight to a fabric by subjecting it to an operation, whereby it will have been made to absorb certain chemicals or substances. The principal filling agents are zinc chloride, magnesium sulphate, magnesium chloride, glue, gelatine, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali silicate). The term "filling" is also used to designate the material used in weighting the fabric and has the same value as "loading" or "weighting."

When the word "filling" is used in connexion with weaving it always signifies the weft threads, each of which is also called a "pick."

=Flannel (Woollen).=--The true Woollen Flannel should be an all-wool fabric, into the making of which no fibres other than wool enter. Woven with either a plain or twill weave, Flannel is a soft-finished material, which, in the better grades, should be of a non-shrinking character. When a very small percentage of cotton is found in so-called all-wool Flannel, it is sometimes due to cotton having remained in the machines used for the carding of the wool prior to making it into yarn. In some countries as much as 1 per cent. of cotton is allowed in an all-wool Flannel. When a higher percentage is found the fabric is no longer considered an all-wool Flannel. When cotton is made to form part of Flannel it is scribbled or carded with the wool to increase the strength of the thread and improve its spinning properties. Such yarns are known as Carded Unions and when woven will produce a Woollen Flannel, which is distinct from an all-wool Flannel. Inasmuch as the term "woollen" is commonly used in opposition to "all-wool," and that it is recognised in England that wastes, shoddy, and blends of material other than wool are referred to as "woollen," the term Woollen Flannel is applicable to a fabric that is not an all-wool material.

=Flannelette.=--Like Cotton Flannel, this fabric is woven from soft mule-spun yarn, which is more suitable for a raised material than a ring-spun yarn. Flannelette may be either plain or twill woven and may be either piece-dyed or woven with coloured warp and weft yarns to form either stripes or checks.

Flannelette is a cloth produced to imitate Flannel and has, owing to its raised surface, a "woolly" feel. By being subjected to a special treatment, Flannelette can be rendered "fireproof"; if untreated, it is a highly inflammable material. The better qualities of Flannelette are distinguished from the lower grades by the former being more closely woven in the warp, and the raised nap is shorter in the better grades. Flannelettes are sometimes printed, in which case they would be more correctly described as "Printed Flannelettes," the ordinary Flannelette of commerce not being as a rule "printed." Whereas in certain countries it is not legal to sell as "pure wool Flannel" a material containing cotton, there is nothing to prevent a manufacturer from selling as Flannelette a material in whose composition a certain amount of wool may enter. Unlike Cotton Flannel, which from its very name shows that the material is of cotton, and by inference cotton only, the term Flannelette may not always designate an all-cotton material, although by general acceptance in the trade Flannelette should be an all-cotton fabric.

=Flat Underwear.=--Goods knitted in plain stitch.

=Fleece-lined.=--Applied to a variety of heavy-weight undergarments knitted with three threads--namely, face yarn, backing yarn, and a third thread of yarn tying the face and back together. The heavy nap or fleece is produced by running the cloth through wire rolls, called brushers. The term "fleece-lined" is often misapplied to ordinary single-thread underwear which has been run through the brushing machine for the purpose of raising a light nap on the inner surface.

=Floconné.=--Having small flakes, in white or colour.

=Florentine Drills.=--When a Drill is woven with a twill weave it is known as a Florentine Drill, to distinguish it from Satin Drill, which is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave.