Part 12

=White Lawn.=--Lawn is a plain-weave light-weight cotton fabric of soft finish made from yarns varying from 1/40's to 1/100's. Lawn has a soft, smooth feel, which is due to the absence of sizing or starching and to the process of brushing and calendering, _i.e._, passing the fabric through heavily weighted steam-heated rollers. Lawns vary in quality and weight similarly to other fabrics, their weight varying between 1¼ and 2¼ ounces per yard; in width they vary from 27 to 46 inches and in length from 12 to 42 yards per piece. Lawn in plain white is coarser than a Cambric. The yarn used in the weaving of Lawn is generally of fine Egyptian cotton. White Lawns are also made of linen yarn, and when so made would be called Linen Lawn. India Lawn is a calendered fabric, about 12 yards to the pound and 28 to 36 inches wide in book-fold or 40 inches in long-fold. Victoria Lawn has a very stiff finish. Bishop's Lawn is slightly heavier in weight than "Linon" or "India Linon," bleached and finished to a bluish tint, and derives its name from the style of finish. The same fabric finished differently would be known under other names. White Lawn is a bleached material.

=White Muslin.=--Muslin is a light-weight, open, plain-weave cotton fabric made generally of low-count yarns, that is to say, of fairly coarse yarn. Muslins, Lawns, and Cambrics are all materials which are similar in construction but vary by their quality, Muslin being the lowest grade of the three. A very common kind of Muslin is known as Butter Muslin or Cheese Cloth. Muslins vary in width from 32 to 46 inches and in length from 12 to 40 yards per piece. Foundation Muslin, Book Muslin, and Butcher's Muslin are varieties of Muslin so dissimilar to the true Muslin that they should not be considered as coming under the classification of true Muslin, which, whilst it varies considerably, should always answer to the description of "a fine, soft, thin, open, plain-woven cotton fabric." White Muslin is a bleached material.

=White Sheetings.=--A bleached light or medium weight plain-woven all-cotton fabric. Under the heading "Grey Sheeting" will be found a description of the two distinct varieties of fabric known as Sheeting. Where such Grey Sheetings have been rendered white by being bleached and are no longer in their loom state, they are known as White Sheetings.

=White Shirtings.=--Essentially a bleached all-cotton fabric woven with a plain one-under and one-over weave, having the warp and weft threads approximately equal in number of threads and counts. It differs from Grey Shirtings only in finish, White Shirting having been subjected to a bleaching process after leaving the loom, whereas Grey Shirting remains in its loom state, _i.e._, in the same condition as when it was taken off the loom. The same remarks as to the similarity between a Grey Shirting and a Grey Sheeting applies to White Shirtings and White Sheetings. Similarly, a White Shirting may be termed a White Calico, which is a term used to designate practically any cotton cloth coarser than Muslin. Varying in width and weight, they are generally put up in pieces of from 36 to 40 yards. The length marked on the outside of the piece may not always correspond to the number of yards in the piece if the yard is taken as one of 36 inches.

=White Spotted Shirtings.=--Like White Striped Shirtings, the ornamentation in this class of fabric would be produced by combination of weave and would not be the result of printing or be due to the presence of coloured yarns. The essentials of this class of fabric are similar to those of White Striped Shirtings, _i.e._, the fabric is all cotton and the ornamentation due to weave and weave only.

=White Striped Shirtings.=--The fabric which would properly come under this classification would be essentially all-cotton fabrics containing stripes, produced by a combination of weave and not the result of printing or due to the presence of coloured yarns. A plain-weave ground may be combined with a sateen-weave stripe. Such a fabric would not be called a Fancy Shirting, which in the trade is generally understood to be "either printed on the woven, bleached fabric, or of fast colours, dyed upon the warp, or combination of each." White Striped Shirtings are mostly made on a Jacquard loom, and in the white condition the woven pattern constitutes the only effect or ornamentation in the finished cloth.

=White T-Cloth.=--A bleached all-cotton fabric, plain woven from low-quality yarns. An ordinary _T_-Cloth which has been bleached. Generally sold in lengths of 24 yards and varying in width from 32 to 36 inches. The name is said to be derived from the mark @T@ of the original exporters.

=White Venetians.=--What has been said of White Italians holds good _mutatis mutandis_ of White Venetians. Such fabrics are in reality White Warp-faced Sateens, and, white not being considered a colour, they do not come under the classification of Dyed Plain Cottons.

=Widow's Lawn.=--A better quality of Lawn made from linen, well woven, very clear and even in texture.

=Width.=--The practice has grown up in the trade to refer to the width of a fabric either as "actual" or "nominal." The former term explains itself and means that the width as given is actually that of the piece referred to, and that it is not less than stated. "Nominal," on the other hand, is understood to mean that the fabric referred to may vary by as much as half an inch below the width specified on the contract.

=Window Holland.=--A plain-woven all-cotton cloth, stiffened after weaving with about one-fifth of its weight in starch or other sizing material. It is used as window shades.

=Wolsey.=--A proprietary name applied to certain all-wool materials, especially underwear.

=Wool.=--Wool is the soft, curly covering which forms the fleecy coat of the sheep and other similar animals, such as the goat, alpaca, llama, vicuña, and camel.

The chief characteristic of wool is its felting or shrinking power. This felting property, from which wool derives its chief value and which is its special distinction from hair, depends in part upon the kinks in the fibre but mainly upon the scales with which the fibre is covered. The process of felting consists in the fibres becoming entangled with each other, and the little projecting scales hooking into each other and holding the fibres closely interlocked.

The wool of commerce is divided into three great classes:--

1. Short wool, or clothing wool (also called carding wool), seldom exceeds a length of 2 to 4 inches.

2. Long wool, or combing wool, varying from 4 to 10 inches.

3. Carpet and knitting wools, which are long, strong, and very coarse.

Combing wools take their name from the process of "combing" which they undergo when being prepared for spinning into yarn. Combing wools are longer than carding wools; they are also harder or more wiry and less inclined to be spiral or kinky.

Carding wools--made to cross and interlace and interlock with one another--are shorter than combing, and, in addition, they possess the power of felting (that is to say, of matting together in a close, compact mass) to a much greater degree.

The first and finest clip of wool is called lamb's wool; it is taken from the young sheep at the age of eight to twelve months and, never having been clipped before, it is naturally pointed at the end. All subsequent cut fleeces are known as wether wool and are less valuable than the first clip. The ends of such wool are thick and blunted on account of having been previously cut.

Wool, unlike cotton, is not capable of being worked into a yarn without first being thoroughly cleansed of its impurities.

=Wool-dyed.=--A term applied to fabrics dyed in the loose or top form--as distinct from yarn-dyed or piece-dyed.

=Woollen.=--This term is used in contradistinction to worsted, and implies difference of material and method of manufacture. Wastes, shoddy, and blends of material other than wool are referred to as "woollen," in opposition to "all wool."

=Woollen and Cotton Flannel.=--A fabric answering to the description of true Flannel, usually woven with either a plain or twill weave, soft finished, but which is made from carded union yarn, _i.e._, yarn composed of wool and cotton in varying proportions according to the quality of the material it is intended to produce. If a Woollen and Cotton Flannel were described as a Union Flannel it would be composed of distinct yarns, some of which were all cotton and some all wool. In its broad acceptance the term is applicable to any fabric woven partly of wool and partly of cotton to resemble true All-wool Flannel.

=Woollen and Cotton Mixtures.=--This term is used to designate fabrics which are composed of the fibres of wool and cotton which have been blended or scribbled together rather than to fabrics composed of distinct threads which are all-cotton and all-wool yarns woven together. A cotton warp and wool weft fabric is a union, not a mixture. Mixtures may be recognised, when dyed, by a careful examination of the fibres constituting the yarn. When such fibres are not of the same colour, it will be found to have been due to the difference of affinity for the dye between cotton and wool. The burning test is not close enough. Carbonising is the surest test that can be applied to determine the presence and percentage of cotton in any Woollen and Cotton Mixture fabric.

=Woollen Fabric.=--The typical woollen is a full-handling fabric in which structure and colouring cannot always be defined on account of the threads and picks, and even the fibres, having become thoroughly intermingled in passing through the operations of finishing. Strictly speaking, a woollen fabric should be made of fine wool (possibly noils included); but in the English Law Courts a definition of "woollen" fabrics as being composed of mungo, shoddy, cotton, etc., has been accepted.

=Woollen Lastings, Craped.=--A fabric similar in the main to a Plain Lasting, but which, owing either to special process of weaving, chemical process during finishing, or to the action of suitably engraved rollers through which the material is made to pass, has a face finish resembling Crape Cloth, Plain, under which heading will be found the distinctive characteristics of Crape Cloth.

=Woollen Lastings, Figured.=--Like Cotton Lastings, this fabric is essentially a plain twill or kindred weave fabric, firmly woven from hard-twisted yarns. It is woven from strong wool and can be described as a fine, durable fabric of a somewhat hard handle, but smooth in appearance and ornamented by the introduction of a figure, pattern, or design produced either by means of an extra thread or by combination of warp and weft threads.

=Woollen Lastings, Plain.=--A plain twill or kindred weave fabric firmly woven from hard-twisted yarns. It is woven from strong wool and can be described as a fine, durable fabric of a somewhat hard handle, smooth in appearance, and free from any ornamentation produced either by weaving or printing. Used extensively in the manufacture of boot and shoe uppers.

=Woollen Yarn= in appearance possesses a fringe-like covering which gives it a fuzzy appearance. This is arrived at by using shorter wool than in the manufacture of worsted yarn and by giving it a twist. This fuzzy appearance distinguishes it from worsted yarn, which is a straight yarn in which the component fibres lie smoothly and parallel to each other. Woollen yarn is particularly suitable for the manufacture of cloths in which the colourings require to be blended, the fibres napped, as in Tweed, Cheviot, Doeskin, Broadcloth, Beaver, Frieze, Chinchilla, Blanket, and Flannel. Woollen yarn may be said to be a thread in which all the component fibres are entangled into each other and are in all different directions: this results in a yarn which is rough in appearance, non-lustrous, and more irregular than worsted yarn. It is only in this type of yarn that low-grade materials, such as mungo, shoddy, or extract, can be utilised. The fibres which constitute a woollen yarn are not as readily separated from the body of the yarn or cloth as in the case of worsted.

In the case of woollen yarn there are numerous systems for denoting the count, varying with the locality in which it is spun and the character of the product. In the United States there are two systems employed, but the one in most general use is known as the "American run counts." This is based on the number of "runs," each containing 1,600 yards, to the pound. Thus, a yarn running 8,000 yards to the pound is called a "5-run" yarn, a yarn with 5,200 yards to the pound is equal to a "3¼-run." In the vicinity of Philadelphia woollen yarn is based on the "cut," each cut consisting of 300 yards, and the count is the number of cuts in a pound. Thus, No. 30 cut yarn consists of 9,000 yards to the pound. A similar system prevails in England, where 200 yards go to the "cut," and the number of "cuts" per pound equals the count. In certain parts of England (Yorkshire) 256 yards go to the hank. The count is also arrived at on the basis that the number of yards per dram equals the count.

=Worsted Diagonal.=--The name explains itself and is applied to a worsted cloth having as its chief characteristic a prominent weave effect running diagonally--from left to right--across the face of the cloth. Generally in solid colours and finished so as to bring the weave into prominence.

=Worsted Lastings.=--A smooth, warp-faced, sateen-weave fabric woven from worsted warp and weft, having a plain-weave effect on the back of the fabric. Generally piece-dyed black. Worsted Lastings average 30 to 31 inches in width and 29 to 30 yards in length per piece. Met with in three grades of quality. Average Bradford price for the best grade was, for the 10 years ended 1914, about 31_s._ 5_d._ per piece.

=Worsted Yarn= is a straight yarn, _i.e._, a yarn produced from straight fibres; it is invaluable in the production of textile fabrics in which lustre and uniformity of surface are the chief characteristics. They enter into the manufacture of Zephyr, Saxony, Serge, Bunting, Rep, etc. Yarn is measured by a system of "counts"--the number of yards of yarn to the pound. It is put up in hanks of 560 yards each, and the number of such hanks that are necessary to weigh 1 pound determines the count, so that if No. 30 yarn is mentioned, it is a yarn 30 hanks of which, or 16,800 yards, weigh 1 pound. The main characteristic of worsted yarn is the arrangement of the fibres, which are so arranged that they are parallel to each other in a longitudinal direction.

The yarn thus produced is a smooth, lustrous, and level yarn, these qualities being absent in woollen yarn. The fibres which constitute a worsted yarn are more readily separated from the body of the yarn or cloth than in the case of a woollen yarn.

=W-Pile.=--This term is used to designate a fast pile and originates in the form taken by a piece of fast pile when removed from the fabric. In a fast-pile fabric the pile cannot be driven out through the back of the fabric by pressure applied to the pile, owing to the fact that the pile is virtually bound into the material and held in place by two threads from the top and one from behind. _See_ Pile Weave.

=Wright's Underwear, Imitation.=--This class of underwear is essentially a knit cotton underwear made from a combination of bleached cotton yarn and dyed yarn. The knit fabric is raised on the inside. The dyed yarn used in the manufacture of this class of underwear is often of a blue or brown colour.

=Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached.=--In its unqualified form the term Cotton Yarn is used to describe "single" yarns, and Cotton Yarn, Grey or Bleached, is understood to be cotton thread and carded yarn, warps or warp yarns, in singles, whether in bundles, skeins, or cops, not advanced beyond the condition of singles by grouping or twisting two or more single yarns together and not advanced beyond the condition of bleached by dyeing, colouring, printing, gassing, or mercerising.

Cotton yarn is subdivided into three groups,--coarse, medium, and fine--according to count:--

No. 20's count and under = coarse. Nos. 21's to 40's = medium. No. 41's and over = fine.

Cotton yarn is sometimes found as a Mercerised Grey Yarn. The fact that cotton yarn is in the unbleached state does not necessarily mean that it has not been advanced beyond that stage; it may be in the grey and at the same time be mercerised. _See_ "Cabled Yarns" and "Folded Yarn."

=Yarn-dyed.=--Yarn-dyed goods are made of yarns that are dyed before being woven or yarns spun from wool that has previously been dyed. Yarn-dyed may be distinguished from piece-dyed fabrics by unravelling the threads of each kind. Yarn-dyed fabrics show that the dye-stuff has penetrated through the yarn, while in the case of piece-dyed fabrics the dye-stuff has not the same chance of penetrating the yarn as completely.

=Zephyrs.=--Lightly constructed, coloured, plain-woven cloths, well finished, in the pure state, principally woven from fine cotton yarns. There are also silk and cotton woven Zephyrs and woollen Zephyrs. _See_ Madras.

=Zibeline.=--The French name for Sable, used to designate a dress or cloaking material having a hairy surface.

INDEX.

INDEX.

A.

_Page._

Actual, 1

Agaric, 1

Albatross, 1

Alhambra Quilt, 1

All Wool; _see_ Woollen, 108

All-over Leno; _see_ Dyed Lenos, 29

Alpaca, 1

Alpaca Wool, 1

Alpacianos, 2

American Run Counts; _see_ Woollen Yarn, 109

American Sheetings, 2

Angola, 2

Angola Yarn or Wool, 2

Angora, 2

Angora Goat, 2

Animalised Cotton, 2

Armure, 3

Artificial Silk, 3

Astrakhan, 3

B.

Back Cloth, 3

Backed Cloth, 4

Baffetas, 4

Baize, 4

Balbriggan, 4

Bale of Cotton, 4

Baline, 4

Balzarine Brocades, Dyed, 4

Balzarines, 5

Bandanna, 5

Barré, 5

Basket Cloth, 5

Batiste, 5

Bayadère, 6

Bayetas, 6

Beavers, 6

Beaverteen, 6

Bedford Cords, 6

Beetle Finish; _see_ Silesia, 83

Beige, 6

Bengal Stripes, 6

Bengaline, 6

Binding Cloth, 7

Bishop's Lawn; _see_ White Lawn, 104

Bleached, 7

Bleached Domestics, 7

Bolting Cloth; _see_ Étamine, 33

Bolton Sheeting; _see_ Grey Sheeting, 39

Bombazine, 7

Book Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

Book-fold Muslin, 7

Botany, 7

Bouclé, 7

Bourette, 7

Broadcloth, 8

Brocade, 8

Brocades, White; _see_ White Brocades, 103

Brocatelle, 8

Broché, 8

Broken Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Brown Sheeting, 8

Brown Shirting, 8

Bugis, 8

"Bump" Yarns, 9

Bundle; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

Bunting, 9

Burlaps, 9

Butcher's Linen, 9

Butcher's Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

C.

Cabled Yarns, 9

Cabot, 9

Cabot; _see_ American Sheetings, 2

Calico, 9

Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103

Cambrics, Dyed; _see_ Dyed Cambrics, 26

Camel's Hair, 10

Camlets (Woollen), 10

Camlets, Dutch (Woollen), 10

Camlets, English (Woollen), 11

Caniche, 11

Canton Flannel, 11

Canvas, 11

Carbonising, 12

Carded Union Yarns; _see_ Union Yarns, 96

Carding Wools; _see_ Wool, 107

Casement Cloth, 12

Cashmere, 12

Cashmere Double, 12

Cashmere Wool, 12

Castor, 13

Cellular Cloth, 13

Ceylon or Ceylon Flannel, 13

Challis, 13

Chambray, 13

Charmeuse, 13

Checks, 13

Cheese Cloth, 13

Cheviot, 14

Chiffon, 14

China Grass; _see_ Ramie, 71

Chinchilla, 14

Chiné, 14

Chinese Customs Definition of Nankeen; _see_ Nankeen, 55

Chintz, 14

Classification of Samples; _see_ Samples, 74

Clip Spots, 14

Coated Cotton Cloths, 14

Collarette, 15

Coloured, 15

Coloured Crimp Cloth, 15

Coloured Lists, 15

Coloured Sateens; _see_ Printed Sateens, 68

Coloured Woollen and Worsted Yarns, 15

Combination Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Combing Wool; _see_ Wool, 107

Continuous or Pad-dyeing Process; _see_ Dyeing, 25

Corduroy, 15

Corkscrew Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Côtelé, 16

Cotton, 16

Cotton, Animalised; _see_ Animalised Cotton, 2

Cotton Duck, 16

Cotton Flannel, 16

Cotton Plush, 17

Cotton Velvet, Plain; _see_ Plain Velvet (Cotton), 62

Cotton Yarn, Coarse, Medium, and Fine; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, 111

Cotton Yarn, Grey or Bleached; _see_ Yarn, Cotton, Grey or Bleached, 111

Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

Counts, 17

Counts of Spun Silk; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Coutil, 18

Covert, 18

Crabbing, 18

Crape Cloth, Plain, 18

Crape Weave; _see_ Crape Cloth, Plain, 18

Crash, 19

Cravenette, 19

Crêpe de Chine, 19

Crêpe Meteor, 19

Crepoline, 19

Crépon, 19

Cretonne, 19

Cretonne, Shadow; _see_ Shadow Cretonne, 82

Crimp Cloth, Plain, or Crimps, 20

Crinkle, or Seersucker, 20

Cross-dyed, 20

Crossover, 20

Cut; _see_ Woollen Yarn, 109

Cut Goods, 20

Cuttling, 21

D.

Damask, 21

Damassé, 21

Delaine, 21

Denim, 21

Derby Rib, 22

Descriptions of Standard Cloth; _see_ Market Descriptions of Standard Cloth, 50

Diagonal, 22

Diaper, 22

Diced; _see_ Diaper, 22

Dimity, 22

Discharge Printing, 22

Dobbie, or Dobby, 22

Domestics, 23

Domet, 23

Dorneck; _see_ Diaper, 22

Double Cloth Weave, 23

Double Sole, Heel, and Toe, 23

Double Warps, 23

Drap d'Été, 23

Dresden, 23

Drill, Pepperell; _see_ Pepperell Drill, 60

Drills, 23

Drills, Grey; _see_ Grey Drills, 39

Drillette, 24

Drilling; _see_ White Drills, or Drilling, 104

Duchesse, 24

Duck, 24

Dungaree, 24

Duplex Prints, 24

Dyeing, 25

Dyed and Printed, 25

Dyed Alpacianos, 25

Dyed Balzarines, 26

Dyed Cambrics, 26

Dyed Corduroys (Cotton), 26

Dyed Cotton Lastings, 26

Dyed Cotton Spanish Stripes, 26

Dyed Crimp Cloth, 27

Dyed Drills, 27

Dyed Figured Cottons, 27

Dyed Figured Cotton Italians, 27

Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings, 27

Dyed Figured Cotton Reps, 28

Dyed Figured Ribs, 28

Dyed Fustians, 28

Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds, 28

Dyed in the Grey; _see_ Dyed in the Piece, 29

Dyed in the Grey; _see_ Union Cloth, 95

Dyed in the Piece, or Piece-dyed, 29

Dyed Lawns, 29

Dyed Lenos, 29

Dyed Leno Brocade, 29

Dyed Muslins, 30

Dyed Plain Cottons, 30

Dyed Plain Cottons; _see_ White Italian, 104

Dyed Plain Cotton Italians, 30

Dyed Real Turkey Reds, 30

Dyed Reps, 31

Dyed Ribs, 31

Dyed Sheetings, 31

Dyed Shirtings, 31

Dyed _T_-Cloths, 32

Dyed Velvet Cords (Cotton), 32

Dyed Velveteen Cords (Cotton), 32

E.

Elongated Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Embossed Velvet (Cotton), 32

Embossed Velveteen (Cotton), 32

Embroideries, 33

End, 33

English Foot, 33

English System of Silk Cords; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Eolienne, 33

Éponge, 33

Equestrienne Tights, 33

Étamine, 33

Extract, 33

Extracted, 33

F.

Face-finished Cashmere; _see_ Velour, 96

Façonné, 33

Faille, 33

Fancies, 34

Fancy Shirtings; _see_ White Striped Shirtings, 106

Fancy Silk Seal; _see_ Silk Seal, 84

Fancy Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Fast Pile; _see_ Pile Weave, 61

Fents, 34

Figured, 34

Figured Cretonne; _see_ Cretonne, 19

Figured Muslin, 34

Figured Twill; _see_ Twill Weave, 93

Figure Weaving, 34

Filled Cotton Cloth, 35

Filling, 35

Filling (finishing term), 35

Flannel (Woollen), 35

Flannel, Cotton; _see_ Cotton Flannel, 16

Flannelette, 35

Flat Underwear, 36

Fleece-lined, 36

Flocks; _see_ Waste and Flocks, 100

Floconné, 36

Florentine Drills, 36

Folded Yarn, 36

Foulard, 37

Foundation Muslin; _see_ White Muslin, 105

French Cambric; _see_ White Cambric, 103

French Foot, 37

French System of Cotton Counts; _see_ Cotton Yarn Measures, 17

French System of Silk Counts; _see_ Silk Yarns, 85

Full Regular, 37

Full-fashioned, 37

Fustian, 37

G.

Galatea, 38

Gauge, 38

Gauze Weave, 38

Genoa Plush; _see_ Cotton Plush, 17

Gingham, 38

Gingham, Madras; _see_ Madras Gingham, 49

Gingham, Silk; _see_ Silk Gingham, 84

Glacé, 38

Granité, 39

Grenadine, 39

Grey, in the Grey, or Grey Cloth, 39

Grey Drills, 39

Grey Jeans, 39

Grey Sheeting, 39

Grey Shirting, 40

Grey _T_-Cloths, 40

Grosgrain, 40

H.

Habit Cloth (Woollen), 40

Habutai, 41

Hair-cord Muslin, 41

Hand Looms and Power Looms, 41

Handle, 41