Chapter 2

RYDE, FROM THE PIER.--The situation of the town is favourable as a principal entrance to the Island, the passage from Portsmouth by steamboat occupying about twenty minutes. The Pier (toll 2d.) is 4,000 feet in length, and is in three portions--for pedestrians and boating, electric railway, and the Isle of Wight Railway. There is a fine pavilion and bandstand at the end. Crowds of people find a never failing source of interest on the pier, yachting, boating, and fishing. On summer afternoons it is a gay and charming scene. The town is built on a gentle slope, and the houses command fine and extensive views. It has the largest population of any town in the Island, about 11,000 inhabitants.

APLEY TOWER, RYDE.--Within one and a half miles of Ryde the wall is a continuation of the Esplanade in the direction of Spring Vale and Sea View. The wall furnishes a means of defence against the encroachment of the sea, as well as a thoroughfare for pedestrian traffic. Bicycles are also used on it to some extent. When the tide is out a wide stretch of sands is exposed, and crowds of children use it as a pleasure ground, finding beautiful seaweed and shells. The walk can be continued round the further point into Sea View.

TOTLAND BAY.--This charming resort has sprung into prominence and grown very fast during the last few years. Many of the houses are very picturesque and beautiful for situation, most of them with red-tiled roofs, which when toned a little more by time will be very beautiful among the trees. There is a pier, and during summer a regular service of boats from Lymington, as well as excursion traffic. The beach is steep and so you can bathe at any state of the tide. A reading-room on the shore is much patronised. The Green Cliff Walk is very delightful, and as the channel here is narrow there is a never-failing interest in the ships that pass in and out quite near. The front lacks shade in the hottest days of summer. It has great interest for the geological student, being close to Headon Hill and Alum Bay.

SANDOWN, LOOKING WEST.--Sandown is celebrated for its fine stretch of sands which are easy of access, and forms an extensive pleasure ground for the children. There is also a fine esplanade for promenading, which in the season is well patronised. In this view the grounds of Ferncliff can be seen behind the Arcade Bazaar, and there is a cliff path to Shanklin on the top. The picturesque fishing village lies under the cliff, slightly to the west. Sandown Railway Station is a junction with the Isle of Wight and I.W. Central Railway. Near the station is the celebrated Secondary School of the Isle of Wight Education Authority.

TENNYSON'S AVENUE, FRESHWATER.--Leading from the main road, near Stark's Hotel, is a lane giving access to the Downs and leading to the Avenue, across which is a small wooden bridge connecting Lord Tennyson's grounds. A quiet, secluded spot yet visited by crowds of admirers of the late Laureate. Tennyson loved retirement, and in scenes like these, surrounded with the loveliness of Nature, the breathings of his genius found full and free expression. The lane may be pursued under the bridge past the farm into the Alum Bay Road.

FRESHWATER BAY.--To those who desire to escape from the noise and traffic of the city, Freshwater Bay affords a delightful retreat. During the bright days of summer the sea breaks in gentle murmur on the sand and shingle of the beach, but in winter when lashed by S.W. Gales "it tumbles a billow on chalk and sand." The roar of the ocean can be heard for miles inland. The esplanade shown in the picture has been destroyed by the breakers. Temporary repairs have been effected, but a fierce controversy is still raging as to the ultimate solution of the question, how to prevent further encroachment, and the L.G.B. has been appealed to for help.

FARRINGFORD, FRESHWATER, LORD TENNYSON'S RESIDENCE.--The residence of the late Laureate is in the neighbourhood between freshwater Gate and Alum Bay, secluded by trees almost to invisibility. The front is covered with greenery, a fine magnolia growing round and over the front door. From under the lateral branches of a fine spreading cedar tree the Poet could look into Freshwater Bay and yet himself not be seen. The park-like grounds are pleasant to walk in, and are open to the inspection of visitors on Thursdays at certain seasons. In his poem of invitation to Rev. F. D. Maurice in 1854 he well describes it:

"Where far from smoke and noise of town, I watch the twilight falling brown, All round a careless order'd garden, Close to the ridge of a noble down."

GODSHILL CHURCH.--Built in a striking and conspicuous situation, Godshill Church is visible from many distant points of the surrounding country--a good example of Early Perpendicular architecture, a cruciform structure having two equal aisles of its whole length, with a fine pinnacled tower and sancte-bell turret in the south transept gable. The tower has been recently rebuilt, having been shattered in a thunderstorm in January, 1904, when the clock face was torn out and thrown out into the churchyard. It contains monuments to the Worsley family and the tomb of Sir John Leigh; also a fine painting, of the school of Rubens, of Daniel in the Lions' Den. There are tea-gardens in the village for the accommodation of the numerous visitors who throng there from Shanklin, Sandown, and other places in the vicinity. There is also the old village inn, the Griffon.

LITTLE JANE'S COTTAGE, BRADING.--This cottage still retains its original appearance with thatched roof and diamond window-panes, a real old-fashioned Isle of Wight cottage, many of which are fast disappearing. The little forecourt and garden are well kept. The greenery covering the front, of plants of great variety, from the yellow jessamine to the red fuchsia, with flowers under and around the windows, combine in completing a picture of great beauty. Here Jane the young cottager lived when Rev. Legh Richmond was Vicar of Brading in the early part of last century. Her tombstone is at the back of Brading Church.

THE SUNDIAL, BRADING.--When clocks and watches were not common, a sundial was of great service to the public. This old dial, with its well-worn steps, is situated in the churchyard at the back of the Church, close to the footpath leading to the Vicarage. The view from the churchyard across to Bembridge Down is very pleasing.

THE PIER, SEA VIEW.--This pretty little watering-place is rapidly rising into prominence as a fashionable resort. The Pier is an elegant structure suspended from piles, and affords an easy and rapid approach from Portsmouth and Southsea by steamboat, and during the summer there is a regular service of boats, as well as excursion traffic. There are also many coach and motor excursions from various parts of the island. Sea View is three miles from Ryde. Many pretty villas have recently been built to accommodate the increasing number of visitors.

VIEW IN VENTNOR PARK.--The acquisition by the town of the site of the Park was a wise and good thing. The differences of level afford many advantages: those who like the sea breezes can walk on the upper promenade green where enchanting views of sea and land meet the eye at every point. Quiet nooks like that of the picture can be found in the lower and more sheltered grounds. The visitor can choose shade or sunshine at command. Alongside of careful culture of flowers and shrubs, wild nature also asserts itself, not having been ruthlessly suppressed.

MONK'S BAY, BONCHURCH.--This quiet retreat is at the Ventnor end of the Landslip and within a short distance of Old Bonchurch. The two thatched cottages are almost grown in, and the bright red cliff which forms the prominent feature consists of the topmost beds of the lower Greensand. The lower beds behind the cottage are of geological interest from the diversity of colour in the beds. The sands are white and firm, and there are rocks and pools where children love to play. Close by is the path leading through the Landslip to Shanklin.

THE DOWNS, VENTNOR.--The elevation of the Downs above Ventnor affords an opportunity of enjoying most romantic and charming scenery, and of being refreshed with health-giving breezes. There are paths leading to Wroxall, also to Shanklin, unfolding a succession of views it would be difficult to rival. When the golden gorse and purple heather are in bloom it presents a glorious prospect to the vision. The footpath leading to the Downs is by the railway station, or access may be had from near the Cemetery. The prospect from the slopes of the Down toward the town and sea is very extensive and impressive.

THE CASCADE, VENTNOR.--It was a happy thought when the town acquired the triangle which includes the Cascade, the water of which once went to supply Ventnor Mill. By the planting of creeping plants, of monkey musk and a number of other beautiful flowers, this neglected corner has been turned into a garden of loveliness. It is like a little corner of Switzerland, and all within sight of a busy thoroughfare. The band plays on the green below to the sound of falling water. In the heat of summer the very sound of it is refreshing.

SHANKLIN ESPLANADE, FROM RYLSTONE.--This favourite view, which shews nearly the whole of Shanklin Pier, also includes in the distance the Culver Cliff. Taken from the Garden of Rylstone, overlooking the foot of the Chine, it forms a most attractive scene. The cliff pathway on the green to the right, the winding road and broad esplanade, with the wide expanse of sands, furnish a characteristic view of the principal features of Shanklin front. The level sands form a safe and pleasant bathing-ground when covered by the sea. Boating too is popular, it being within easy reach of beautiful bays in the direction of Luccombe.

THE OLD CHURCH, BONCHURCH.--In addition to the beautiful situation and the essential loveliness of the subject, Old Bonchurch has many associations of attraction. It is no longer used for services, except an occasional funeral. In the churchyard John Sterling's grave and the grave of the Rev. J. Adams, author of the "Shadow of the Cross," interest a great many visitors, the latter having a raised horizontal cross, which casts a shadow on the stone when the sun shines. The old porch is an object of beauty, crowned with roses and honeysuckle, the red tiled roof relieved with thick masses of ivy, while over it the tall elm-trees stand, as though to shelter it from every stormy blast.

End of Project Gutenberg's Pictures in Colour of the Isle of Wight, by Various