Chapter 19

Buas, battle of, between the Aus and Kharaj tribes, i. 349; ii. 59, n. Bokhari, Al-, celebrated divine, i. 106, n. Books, Moslem, those read in schools in Egypt, i. 105 Works on Moslem divinity, 105, et seq. Books on logic and rhetoric, 108, n. Algebra, 108, n. History and philosophy, 108, n. Poetry, 108, n. Abundance of books at Al-Madinah, ii. 24 Borneo, pilgrims from, to Meccah, i. 179 Botany of the Arabian Desert, ii. 137 Bouda, the Abyssinian malady so called, ii. 175, n. Brahui nomads, i. 246, n. Bravado, its effect in Arabia, ii. 264 Bread in Arabia, i. 245 That called Kakh, 245 Fondness of Orientals for stale unleavened bread, 245, n. Breakfast, an Arab, i. 298 “Breeding-in,” question of, ii. 84 Brigandage, held in honour among the Badawin, ii. 101 Britain, probable origin of the name, ii. 239, n. Bughaz, or defile, where Tussun Bey was defeated, i. 262, n. Bukht al-Nasr (Nebuchadnezzar), invasion of, i. 347 Bulak, the suburb of, i. 31 “Bulak Independent,” the, i. 109, n. Buraydat al-Aslami, escorts Mohammed to Al-Madinah, i. 354 Burckhardt, his grave near Cairo, i. 84, n. Error in his Map of Arabia, 253 Reference to his “Travels,” i. 286, n. His account of the curtain round the Prophet’s tomb, 321, n. Extracts from his descriptions of the Bayt Ullah, ii. 294, et seq. [p.427] Burial-places in the East and in Europe, ii. 183 Burma, or renegade, derivation of the word, i. 23 Burnus, i. 193 Burton, Lieut., what induced him to make a pilgrimage, i. 1 His principal objects, 3 Embarks at Southampton, 5 His Oriental “impedimenta,” 5 His eventless voyage, 6 Trafalgar, 7 Gibaltar, 7 Malta, 7 Lands at Alexandria, 8 Successfully disguises himself, 11 Supposed by the servants to be an ’Ajami, 11 Secures the assistance of a Shaykh, 11 Visits Al-Nahl and the venerable localities of Alexandria, 11 His qualifications as a fakir, magician, and doctor, 12 Assumes the character of a wandering Darwaysh as being the safest disguise, 13 Adopts the name of Shaykh Abdullah, 14 Elevated to the position of a Murshid, 14 Leaves Alexandria, 16 His adventures in search of a passport, 19 Reasons for assuming the disguise, 22 His wardrobe and outfit, 23 Leaves Alexandria, 28 Voyage up the Nile, 29 Arrives at Bulak, 31 Lodges with Miyan Khudabakhsh Namdar, 35 Life in the Wakalah of Egypt, 41 Makes the acquaintance of Haji Wali, 43 Becomes an Afghan, 45 Interposes for Haji Wali, 48 Engages a Berberi as a servant, 62 Takes a Shaykh, or teacher, Shaykh Mohammed al-Attar, 67 The Ramazan, 74 Visits the “Consul-General” at Cairo, 86 Pleasant acquaintances at Cairo, 122 Account of the pilgrim’s companion, Mohammed al-Busyani, 123 Lays in stores for the journey, 125 The letter of credit, 126 Meets with difficulties respecting the passport, 127 Interview with the Persian Consul, 129 Obtains a passport through the intervention of the chief of the Afghan college, 131 An adventure with an Albanian captain of irregulars, 132, et seq. Departure from Cairo found necessary, 140 A display of respectability, 141 Shaykh Nassar, the Badawi, 141 Hasty departure from Cairo, 142 The Desert, 144, et seq. The midnight halt, 154 Resumes the march, 154 Rests among a party of Maghrabi pilgrims, 156 Adventure on entering Suez, 159 An uncomfortable night, 159 Interview with the governor of Suez, 160 Description of the pilgrim’s fellow-travellers at Suez, 161, et seq. Advantages of making a loan, 165 Suspicion awakened by a sextant, 166 Passports a source of trouble, 168 Kindness of Mr. West, 169 Preparations for the voyage from Suez, 172 Society at the George Inn, 172 The pilgrim-ship, 186 A battle with the Maghrabis, 191 Leaves Suez, 194 Course of the vessel, 195 Halts near the Hammam Bluffs, 197 The “Golden Wire” aground, 200 Re-embarkation, 201 Reaches Tur, 201 Visits Moses’ Hot Baths, 203 Leaves Tur, 207 Effects of a thirty-six hours’ sail, 209 Makes Damghah anchorage, 213 Enters Wijh Harbour, 214 Sails for Jabal Hassani, 217 Nearly wrecked, 219 Makes Jabal Hassani, 220 Wounds his foot, 221 The halt at Yambu’, 225 Bargains for camels, 230 An evening party at Yambu’, 232 Personates an Arab, 234 His Hamail or pocket Koran, 239 Departure from Yambu’, 241 The Desert, 242 The halting-ground, 244 Resumes the march, 244 Alarm of [p.428] “Harami” or thieves, 249 Reaches Bir Sa’id, 251 Encamps at Al-Hamra, 253 Visits the village, 254 A comfortless day there, 255 Attempt of the Badawin to levy blackmail, 261 Encamps at Bir Abbas, 264 A forced halt, 271 Prepares to mount and march, 272 Scene in the Shuab al-Hajj, 273 Arrives at Shuhada, 274 The favourite halting-place, Bir al-Hindi, 274 Reaches Suwaykah, 275 Has a final dispute with Sa’ad the Demon, 276 Disappearance of the camel-men, 277 First view of the city of Al-Madinah, 279 Poetical exclamations and enthusiasm of the pilgrims, 280 Stays at the house of Shaykh Hamid, 288 The visitors and children there, 291 The style of living at Al-Madinah, 296 View from the majlis’ windows, 297 Visits the Prophet’s tomb, 304 Expensiveness of the visit, 331 Reasons for doubting that the Prophet’s remains are deposited in the Hijrah, 339. Visits the Mosque of Kuba, 398 Sums spent in sightseeing, 411 His “Kayf” at Al-Kuba, 412 Arrival of the “Damascus pilgrimage” at Al-Madinah, 416 The visitation of Ohod, 419 Attends at the Harim in the evening, 433 Visits the cemetery of Al-Bakia, ii. 31 Prepares to leave Al-Madinah, 51 Adieus, 54 The last night at Al-Madinah, 55 The next dangers, 57 The march from Al-Madinah, 59 The first halt, 59 A gloomy pass, 61 Journey from Al-Suwayrkiyah to Meccah, 124 A small feast, 127 A night journey, 132 An attack of the Utaybah, 143 The pilgrim sights Meccah, 152 His first visit to the House of Allah, 160 His uncomfortable lodging, 171 Returns to the Ka’abah, 172 Ceremonies of the day of Arafat, 192 et seq.; and of the Day of Victims, 202 Accident at the Great Devil, 204 Revisits the Ka’abah, 206 The sacrifices at Muna, 217 The sermon at the Harim, 225 Life at Meccah, and the Little Pilgrimage, 227 The pilgrim’s contemplated resolution to destroy the slave trade, 252 Description of a dinner at Meccah, 256 Leaves Meccah, 260 Events on the road, 261, et seq. Enters Jeddah, 265 End of the pilgrim’s peregrinations, 276 Busat, Bir al-, at Kuba, i., 414, n. Business, style of doing, in the East, i. 27 Bassorah, i. 266, n. Butter, clarified (Samn in Arabia, the Indian ghi), used in the East, i. 182, 245 Fondness of Orientals for, ii. 11 Buza’at, Bir al-, at Kuba, i. 414, n.

CAGLIOSTRO, Count (Guiseppe Balsamo), the impostor, his settlement of Greeks at Al-Madinah, i. 292; ii. 25 Cain, his burial-place under Jabal Shamsan, ii. 160, n. Cairo, its celebrated latticed windows, i. 35 Medical practitioners in, 54 Expenses of a bachelor in, 65 A Cairo druggist described, 67 The Abbasiyah palace, 78 Scene from the Mosque of Mohammed Ali by moonlight, 84 A stroll in the city at night, 88 Immense number of Mosques at, 96 Once celebrated [p.429] for its libraries, 101, n. Fanatic Shaykhs of, 113, n. The corporations, or secret societies of, 113 Description of the festival following the Ramazan, 115 The “New Year Calls” at Cairo, 117. Meaning of the name Cairo, 117 The Pressgang in, 117 The inhabitants panic-stricken at the rumours of a conspiracy, 118 Scenes before the police magistrate, 119 Vulgar arabesques on the tombs outside the Bab al-Nasr, 335, n. Gardens in the Mosques of, 337 Magician of, 388, n. Cambay, Gulf of, i. 212 Camel-grass of the Desert, i. 252 Camels, remarks on riding, i. 142 The “nakh,” 152 n. The Shaykh or agent of (the Mukharrij), 230 His duties, 230, n. Loading camels in Arabia, 234 The mas’hab, or stick for guiding, 237 The Arab assertion that the feet of the camel are pained when standing still, 241, n. Mounting a camel, 241 Travelling in Indian file, 243 Pace at which camels travel, 244, n. Method of camel-stealing in Arabia, 250, n. The celebrated camels from Nijd, i. 266, n. Camel-travelling compared with dromedary-travelling, 281 The she-camel which guided Mohammed, 354, 355, 360 Carthartic qualities of camels’ milk, 390 The huge white Syrian dromedary, 418 The Dalul, 418 The Nakah, 418, n. The camels of Al-Madinah, ii. 16 Camel hiring at Al-Madinah, 32 Camel’s sure-footedness, 68 A night-journey with, in the Desert, 132 Specimens of the language used to camels, 133, n. Mode of sacrificing camels, 217, n. Canaanites, identified with the Amalik of the Moslems, i. 343, n. Canal, the proposed, between Pelusium and Suez, i. 143 Capparis, the wild, in Arabia, ii. 72 Caramania, i. 191 Caravan, i. 249 The escort, 249 The Tayyarah, or flying Caravan, ii. 50 The Rakb, or dromedary Caravan, 50 Principal officers of the Caravan to Meccah, ii. 71 Caravanserai, of Egypt. See Wakalah Caste in India, observations on, i. 36, n. Castor-plant, i. 403 Cathedrals, of Spain, proofs of their Oriental origin, i. 307, n. The four largest in the world, 364, n. Catherine, St., convent of, on the shores of the Red Sea, i. 202, n. Cattle, breeding of, among the Badawin, ii. 107 Cautery, the actual, used in cases of dysentery, i. 389 And for the cure of ulcers, 390 Cavalry, Albanian irregular, i. 266 English cavalry tactics defective, 268 Reference to Captain Nolan’s work, 268 Ancient and modern cavalry, 268 The Chasseurs de Vincennes, 269 Cave, of Mount Ohod, i. 423 Celibacy in the East, pernicious effects of, ii. 79, n. Cemetery of Al-Bakia. See Bakia Cemetery of Meccah (Jannat al-Ma’ala), visit to the, ii. 248 Cephren, pyramid of, i. 30 Cereals, of the Madinah plain, i. 404 “Chains, Affair of,” (Zat al-Salasil), ii. 89 [p.430] Chaldæans, in Arabia, ii. 77 Charity, water distributed in, i. 6 Chasseurs de Vincennes, i. 269 Chaunting the Koran, i. 106 Cheops, pyramid of, i. 30 Children of the Arabs, i. 292 Their bad behaviour and bad language, 292 Causes of this, 292, n. Children entrusted to Badawin, ii. 89 Chivalry, Arab, ii. 92 Songs of Antar, 95 Chivalry of the Caliph Al-Mu’tasim, 96 Chob-Chini. See Jin-seng Cholera Morbus in Al-Hijaz. See Rih al-Asfar Christ, personal suffering of, denied by all Moslems, i. 326, n. Christians, colony of, on the shores of the Red Sea, i. 202 Civilisation, the earliest, always took place in a fertile valley, with a navigable river, i. 344 n. Circumambulation. See Tawaf Circumcision, ceremony of, ii. 19 Among the Badawin, ii. 110 The two kinds, Taharah and Salkh, 110. Method of proceeding, 110, n. Cleopatra’s Baths, i. 10 Cleopatra’s Needle, i. 10 Called Pharaoh’s packing-needle by the native Ciceroni, 10, n. Cleopatra, her introduction of Balm of Gilead into Egypt, ii. 148, n. Coffee-house, description of an Eastern, i. 215 Good quality of the coffee drunk at Al-Madinah, i. 290 Filthiness of that of Egypt, 290, n. The “Kishr” of Al-Yaman, 291, n. The coffee-houses of Al-Madinah, 392 Coffee-drinking on the march, ii. 63 The coffee-houses at Muna, 222 Coffee-houses on the road near Meccah, 261 Cole, Mr. Charles, Vice-Consul at Jeddah, his account of the population of the principal towns of Arabia, i. 393, n. His straightforwardness and honesty of purpose, ii. 267 His letter on the trade of Jeddah, 268, n. Colleges (Madrasah), the two, of Al-Madinah, ii. 24 Colligation, system of, in battle, ii. 89. The “Affair of Chains” (Zat al-Salasil), 89, n. Coloquintida, its growth in the Deserts of Arabia, ii. 137 Used as a medicine by the Arabs, 137, n. Comet, apprehensions of the Madani at the appearance of one, ii. 29 Commerce, of Suez, i. 179 Communist principles of Mazdak the Persian, ii. 3, n. Consular dragoman, a great abuse in the East, i. 128, n. Instances of the evils caused by the tribe, 128, n. Hanna Massara, 128, n. Remedies proposed, 128, n. Consular abuses, 129 Conversation, specimen of Oriental, i. 87 Coptic Christians, good arithmeticians, i. 108, n. Coptic artists employed on the Mosque of Al-Madinah, i. 365 Probably half-caste Arabs, ii. 78, n. Coral reefs of the Red Sea. i. 218 Corinthians, fair, not any at Al-Madinah, ii. 19 Those of Jeddah, ii. 270 Cosmetic, Badawi, ii. 81, n. [p.431] Cot, column of the, in the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 336 Cotton seed (Bizr al-Kutn), used as a remedy in dysentery, i. 389 Courtship, Abyssinian style of, i. 59 Covetousness of the Arab, its intensity, ii. 103 Cressets (Mashals), of the East, ii. 132 The Pasha’s cressets, 132, n. Cressy, reference to the battle of, i. 267, n. Crown of Thorns, i. 405, n. Curtain, of the Prophet’s tomb, i. 321

DABISTAN al-Mazahib, i. 344, n. Daggers of the Badawin, ii. 106 Dajjal, Al- (Antichrist), the Moslem belief respecting, i. 378, n. Dakhl, or protection, among the Arabs, ii. 97 Dakkat al-Aghawat, or eunuch’s bench, at Al-Madinah, i. 316, n. Dakruri, Al-, the shrine of the saint, i. 155 Damascus, cathedral of, i. 364 Its eminence among Moslem cities, ii. 133, n. Epithets applied to it, 133, n. Sayings of the Prophet respecting, 133, n. Said to be the burial place of Abel, 160, n. Damascus Caravan, i. 321, n. Brocade of Damascus, 322, n. Rejoicing at Al-Madinah on the arrival of the Caravan, 334 Description of the arrival of at Al-Madinah, 416 The Emir al-Hajj, 420 Number of pilgrims in the, 334 Quarrel between it and that from Baghdad, ii. 128 Stopped in a perilous pass, 143 Grand spectacle afforded by the, on the plain of Arafat, 181 Damghah, Marsa, on the Red Sea, i. 213 Dancing of the Badawin, its wildness, ii. 223 Daniyal, al-Nabi (Daniel the Prophet), tomb of, i. 12 Dar al-Bayda, the viceroy’s palace in the Desert, i. 154 Daraj, Al- (the ladder), at the Ka’abah, ii. 311 Darb al-Sharki, or Eastern road, from Al-Madinah to Meccah, ii. 58 Darb Sultani (the Sultan’s road), i. 260; ii. 58 Dates, the delicious, of Tur, i. 204 Those of the hypæthral court of the Prophet’s Mosque, 337 The date “Al-Sayhani,” 337 The date-groves of Kuba, 381 The fruit of Nijd, 383 The Tamr al-Birni kind used as a diet in small-pox, 385 Celebrity of the dates of Al-Madinah, 400 Varieties of the date-tree, 400 Al-Shelebi date, 400 The Ajwah, 401 Al-Hilwah, 401 Al-Birni, 401 The Washi, 401 The Sayhani, 401 The Khuzayriyah, 401 The Jabali, 401 The Laun, 401 The Hilayah, 402 Fondness of the Madani for dates, 402 Rutab, or wet dates, 402 Variety of ways of cooking the fruit, 402 The merry-makings at the fruit gatherings, 403 Causes of the excellence of the dates of Al-Madinah, 403 The date-trees of Kuba, ii. 338 Da’ud Pasha, his palace at Al-Madinah, i. 394 Daughters of the Prophets, tombs of the, ii. 38 Daurak, or earthern jars, used for cooling the holy water of Zemzem,