Perfumes and their preparation

CHAPTER XXXI.

Chapter 384,063 wordsPublic domain

THE UTENSILS USED IN THE TOILET.

In the toilet, besides combs and hair brushes, use is made of powder puffs, tooth brushes, and bath sponges. Powder puffs are made from swan skins, but should be used rather for the even division of the powder or paint than for its application. For the latter purpose a piece of soft glove or chamois leather is best.

The commercial tooth brushes are almost without exception objectionable owing to the stiffness of the bristles. A suitable tooth brush should be made of very soft, flexible bristles, lest it wear away the enamel.

Particular attention should be devoted to bath sponges. Their value is proportionate to the fineness of the pores, their softness and elasticity, and their spherical shape. Crude sponges are best cleansed by being placed in dilute hydrochloric acid which dissolves the calcareous particles adhering to them.

They are bleached as follows.

Free them as far as possible from sand and other foreign matters. Then wash them thoroughly with water, and press them. Next introduce them into a solution of permanganate of potassium containing one ounce of the salt in a gallon; leave them in this liquid two or three minutes; then take them out, express the liquid (which can be several times used over again), wash them with water until no more violet-tinted liquid runs from them, and then immerse them in a solution of one part of hyposulphite of sodium in twenty parts of water, to which immediately before dipping the sponges one part of hydrochloric acid has been added. When the sponge’s are white, remove them and wash them thoroughly with water.

After prolonged use, bath sponges lose their elasticity and softness. These properties can be restored by dipping the sponges into a mixture of one part by measure of glycerin and eight parts of water, pressing out the excess of the liquid and allowing them to dry. The small quantity of glycerin which they contain prevents their hardening.

INDEX.

À la mode perfume, 186

Absorption, 101

Acacia farnesiana, 26

Acetic ether, 80

Acid, acetic, 76 benzoic, 74 carbonic, apparatus, 112 carbonic, for absorption of odors, 102 perfumes, 202 pyrogallic, 84 salicylic, preservation of fats by, 79

Acorus Calamus, 50

Adulteration of essential oils with alcohol, 144 of essential oils with fixed oils, 144 of essential oils with other essential oils, 143 of essential oils with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, 145

Adulterations of essential oils and their recognition, 139

Alcohol, 63 absolute, manufacture of, 68 amyl, 71 percentage tables of, 70 source of, influence on perfumes, 72

Alcoholometer, Tralles’, 69

Alkanet, 299

Alloxan, 73, 274

Allspice, 21

Allspice, essence of, 159

Almond and honey paste, 234 balls, 244 cold-cream, 243 cream, 230 meal, 234 paste, simple, 233

Almonds, bitter, 24 sweet, 50

Aloysia citriodora, 54

Amandes amères, 24

Amandes douces, 50

Amandine, 230

Ambergris, 57 tincture of, 151

Ambra grisea, 57

Ammonia, 73 carbonate of, 74

Ammoniacal perfumes, 199

Amygdala amara, 24 dulcis, 50

Amyl alcohol, 71

Ananas, 44

Ancients, perfumery among the, 2

Andropogon citratus, 30, 35 laniger, 30 muricatus, 30, 54 Nardus, 29 Schoenanthus, 30

Aneth, 31

Anethum graveolens, 31

Animal substances used in perfumery, 57

Anise, 21

Anti-Odorin, 278

Apple ether, 81

Aromatic substances, division of, according to their origin, 8 substances in general, 6 substances, relative strength of, 7 substances, special characteristics of, 118 substances, vegetable, chemical constitution of, 15 substances, vegetable, employed in perfumery, 20 vinegar, 203 waters, 113, 167

Aspic, 35

Attar of rose, 133

Auricome, 291

Badiane, 48

Baguettes encensoires, 216

Baisers du printemps, 170

Balm, 22

Balsamodendron Kafal, 41 Myrrha, 39

Balsamum peruvianum, 43 tolutanum, 51

Bandolines, 296

Barium sulphide, 293

Baume de Milan pour les cheveux, 283 du Pérou, 43 de Tolou, 51

Bay rum, 284 sweet, 22 West Indian, 22

Beard producer, 284 wax, 295

Bear’s-grease pomade, 250

Beef-marrow pomade, 251

Benjoin, 23

Benzene, 66

Benzin, 66

Benzoated oil, 255

Benzoic acid, 74 acid, sublimed, manufacture of, 75

Benzoin, 23 and benzoic acid, use of, for preventing rancidity of fats, 79 pomade, 248 tincture of, 151

Benzol, 66

Bergamot, 24 essence of, 152

Bisamkörner, 38

Bismuth, subnitrate of, 86

Bismuth white, 86, 271

Bisulphide of carbon, 66

Bitter almond, essence of, 152 almond milk, 238 almonds, 24

Black color, 301

Blanc de bismuth, 86 de perles, 86, 278 français, 271 perle liquide, 271

Bleu végetal pour les veines, 273

Blossom pomade, 250

Blue colors, 300

Bois de camphre, 25 de cèdre, 27 de rose, 45

Borated tooth powder, 262 tooth tincture, 266

Borax, 75

Bouquet à la maréchale, 186 cosmopolite, 180 court, 173 d’Andorre, 171 de Chypre, 172 de fleurs, 172 de flore, 176 de la cour, 171 de l’Alhambra, 169 de l’amour, 169 de Stamboul, 194 d’Esterhazy, 173 de Virginie, 195 des chasseurs, 171 des délices, 172 d’Irlande, 177 du Bosphore, 171 du Japon, 178 heliotrope, 194 leap-year, 184 Royal Horse-Guard’s, 177

Bouquets, manufacture of, 167

Brillantines, 296

Bromelia Ananas, 44

Brown color, 301

Bruges ribbons, 219

Buckingham flowers, 170

Cachous aromatisées, 263

Cajuput leaves, 25

Calamus, essence of, 152

Calcium sulphide, 292

Camphor, 121 balls, 241

Camphor cold-cream, 240 ice, 240 wood, 25

Camphorated chalk tooth powder, 262 Cologne water, 266

Canelle, 27

Cantharidal pomade, 248

Cantharides, tincture of, 281

Caramel, 301

Carbon, bisulphide of, 66

Carbonate of ammonia, 74

Carbonic acid apparatus, 112 acid for absorption of odors, 102

Carmine, 299

Carthamin red, 299

Carum Carvi, 25

Carvi, 25

Caryophylli, 30

Caryophyllus aromaticus, 30

Cascarilla bark, 26 gratissima, 26

Cassia, 28

Cassie, 26, 28 extract of, 151

Castor, Castoreum, 58 tincture of, 152

Castor-oil pomade, 252

Cedar, essence of, 152 perfume, 174 tincture of, 152 wood, 27

Cèdre du Libanon perfume, 174

Cedrus libanotica, 27

Ceylon sachet powder, 209

Chalk, prepared, manufacture of, 261 Venetian, 271

Chapped skin, lotion for, 275

Characteristics, special, of aromatic substances, 118

Charcoal objectionable as a tooth powder, 259 tooth powder, 263

Cheiranthus Cheiri, 55

Chemical constitution of vegetable aromatic substances, 15 products used for the preparation of perfumes, 68 products used in perfumery, 63

Chemicals used for the extraction of aromatic substances, 64

Cherry salve, 243

Cherrylaurel leaves, 29

Chèvre-feuille, 33

China rose perfume, 192 roses, extract of, 161

Chinese gelatin, 80 tooth powder, 264

Chloral mouth wash, 267

Chloroform, 65

Chlorophyll, 300

Cinchona bark tooth powder, 262 pomade, 251

Cinnamomum, 27

Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, 31 zeylanicum, 28

Cinnamon, 27 Chinese, 28 tincture of, 165

Circassian pomade, 248

Cire à moustaches, 295

Citron, 28 flowers, 29

Citronella, 29 essence of, 153

Citrus Aurantium, 41 Bergamia, 24 limetta, 35 Limonum, 35 medica, 28 vulgaris, 41

Civet, 62 tincture of, 165

Civetta, 62

Clous de girofle, 30

Clove, 30 essence of, 157

Cold-creams and lip salves, 238

Cologne cold-cream, 242 water, 180

Colors used in perfumery, 87, 297

Concombre, 31

Convallaria perfume, 172

Convolvulus floridus, 45 scoparius, 45

Cortex Aurantii, 41 Cascarillæ, 26 Culilavan, 31

Cosmetic perfumery, 225, 269

Cosmetics, hair, 280 skin, and face lotions, 270 skin, red, 272 skin, white, 271

Couronne de fleurs, 173

Court bouquet, 173

Craie venétienne, 271

Crême de Cologne, 242 de moëlle, 251 de ricine, 252 de vanille, 253 de violettes, 244

Crinochrom, 290

Crisp mint, 38

Croton Eluteria, 26

Crystallized oil, 249

Cucumber, 31 cold-cream, 242 extract of, 154 milk, 237

Cucumis sativus, 31

Culilaban bark, 31

Cuminum Cyminum, 26

Curcuma, 298

Currant, black, 27

Cuscus, 30, 54

Cuttlefish-bone tooth powder 263

Cyprian sachet powder, 209

Dandelion milk, 237

Depilatories, 292

Dianthus caryophyllus, 44

Dill, 31

Dipteryx odorata, 52

Displacement, 111

Distillation, 92 fractional, 143

Divine pomade, 241

Dog-rose perfume, 193

Double pomades, 249

Drop presses, 90

Dry perfumes, 207

Dye, black, 288 brown, 288 vegetable, 287

Eau anathérine, 265 d’Afrique, 290 d’anges, 39 d’Athènes, 281 de Berlin, 170 de Botot, 265 de Cologne, 180 de fleurs, 281 de fontaine de jouvence, 291 de laurier, 282 de lavande à mille fleurs, 184 de lavande ambrée, 183 de lavande double, 184 de Leipsic, 184 de Lisbonne, 185 de Luce, 202 de Mialhe, 267 de Milan, 266 de mille fleurs, 186 de mille fleurs à palmarose, 187 de perles, 276 de romarin, 282 de rose triple, 160 de roses, 283 de salvia, 268 de violettes, 268 du Portugal, 190 glycerinée aux cantharides, 281 hongroise, 195 japonaise, 178 lenticuleuse, 275 saponique, 282 Victoria, 282

Eaux aromatisées, 113 encensoires, 220

Ecorce culilaban, 31 d’oranges, 41

Eglantine perfume, 193

Elais guineensis, 42

Elder flowers, 32

Emulsions, 227, 230

Encens, 40

Enfleurage, 101

Esprit de roses triple, 161

Ess. bouquet, 175

Essence de roses blanches, 162

Essence de roses jaunes, 161 de roses jumelles, 162 de styrax, 162 definition of, 150 des bouquets, 175 meaning of the French term, 14 of mirbane, 83

Essences dentifrices, 265 directions for making, 150 employed in perfumery, 146 fruit, 82 removal of fat from, 149

Essential oil a misnomer, 14 oils, adulteration of, with alcohol, 144 oils, adulteration of, with fixed oils, 144 oils, adulteration of, with other essential oils, 143 oils, adulteration of, with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, 145 oils, adulterations of, and their recognition, 139 oils, chemical and physical properties of, 16 oils, final purification of, 112 oils, oxygenation of, 18 oils, preservation of, 19 oils, table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points of, 141 oils, yield of, 113

Esterhazy bouquet, 173

Ether, 64 acetic, 80 apple, 81 nitrous, 81 œnanthic, 71 pear, 81 petroleum, 65 pine-apple, 81

Ethers, fruit, 81, 82

Eugenia Pimenta, 21

Excelsior extraction apparatus, 107

Extract, definition of, 150

Extraction, 103 apparatus, 103 et seq. of aromatic substances, chemicals used for, 64 of odors, 87

Extracts, directions for making, 150 employed in perfumery, 146

Extrait d’amande, 152 d’ambre, 169 d’ambregris, 151 d’ambrette, 152 de baume de tolou, 162 de benjoin, 151 de bergamotte, 252 de bois de cèdre, 152 de canelle, 165 de cassie, 151 de castoreum, 152 de cèdre, 152 de chèvre-feuille, 153, 176 de civette, 165 de clous de girofles, 157 de concombre, 154 de fleurs d’oranges, 158 de gaulthérie, 165 de giroflé, 155, 184 de glaïeul, 152 d’églantine, 161 de héliotrope, 154, 176 de jasmin, 155 de jonquille, 157, 179 de lavande, 155 de lilas, 153, 174 de limon, 156 de lys, 156, 185 de magnolia, 156, 185 de menthe, 156 de mignonette, 159 de musc, 156, 188 de myrte, 157, 189 de narcisse, 157, 189 d’encens, 165 de néroli, 158 de patchouli, 158, 191 de Pérou, 159 de piment, 159 de pois de senteur, 159, 190 de rosa théa, 162 de rose, 159 de roses mousseuses, 161 de roses triple, 161 de santal, 162 de Schoenanthe, 153 de tonka, 163 de tuberose, 163 de vanille, 163 de verveine, 163, 196 de vétiver, 165 de violette, 163 de volcameria, 164 d’iris, 163 d’oeillet, 158, 190 d’oliban, 165 végétal, 281

Fabæ Tonkæ, 52

Face lotions, 274

Farine d’amandes, 234 de pistaches, 235

Fats, 77 purification of, 77, 246 rancidity of, prevention of, 79

Fennel, 32

Fenouil, 32

Ferula Sumbul, 49

Fèves de Tonka, 52

Field-flower sachet powder, 209

Fiori d’Italia, 174

Fleurs de citron, 29 de mai perfume, 172 de Montpellier, 187 des champs, 188 d’oranges, 41 solsticiales, 194

Florentine flasks, 96

Flores Aurantii, 41 Citri, 29 Loniceræ, 33 Sambuci, 32 Syringæ, 36

Florida perfume, 175

Flowers of the Isle of Wight perfume, 198

Fœniculum vulgare, 32

Folia Cajuputi, 25 Laurocerasi, 29

Forest-breeze perfume, 197

Formulas for handkerchief perfumes, 169 for pomades and hair oils, 247 for sachets, 209 for toilet vinegars, 204

Fractional distillation, 143

Frangipanni sachet powder, 210

Freckle lotion, 275 milk, 274

French flower farms, annual production of, 10 white, 271

Fructus Citri, 28

Fruit essences, 82 ethers, 80, 82

Fumigating paper, 218 pastils, 214 pencils, 216 powders, 220 ribbons, 219 waters and vinegars, 220

Fumigation, perfumes used for, 214

Funnel, separating, 89, 98

Fusel oils, 71

Garland of flowers perfume, 173

Gaultheria procumbens, 55

Gaulthérie, 55

Gelatin, Chinese, 80

Geranium, 32 essence of, 154

Ginger grass, 30

Giroflé, 55

Glycerin, 82 cold-cream, 240 cosmetic use of, 227 cream, 231 emulsions, 231 jelly, 232

Golden hair water, 291

Grains d’ambrette, 38

Green colors, 300

Gum wax, 49

Hair cosmetics, 280 dye, copper, 290 dye, lead, 286 dyes and depilatories, 285 dyes, double, 288 dyes, silver, 288 simple, 286 oils and pomades, 245 oils, formulas for, 254 restorer, 283 tonics, 283 washes, 281

Handkerchief perfumes, formulas for, 169 perfumes, manufacture of, 167

Hedyosmum flowers, 33

Heliotrope, 33 bouquet, 194 extract of, 154 hair oil, 255 perfume, 176 pomade, 252 sachet powder, 210

Heliotropin, 33

Heliotropium peruvianum, 33

Hepar sulphuris, 84

Herba Majoranæ, 37

Hibiscus Abelmoschus, 38

History of perfumery, 1

Homœopathic chalk tooth powder, 262

Honeysuckle, 33 extract of, 153 perfume, 176

Hovenia perfume, 177

Huile à benjamin, 255 à l’ess-bouquet, 255 crystallisée, 249 de jasmin, 255 de mille fleurs, 188 de palme, 42 héliotrope, 255 philocome, 256

Hungarian beard wax, 295 water, 195

Huntsman’s nosegay, 178

Hydrogen dioxide, 291

Hygienic and cosmetic perfumery, 225

Hyraceum, 59

Hyssop, 34

Hyssopus officinalis, 34

Illicium anisatum, I. religiosum, 48

Incense powder, 217

Indian sachet powder, 210

Inexhaustible salt, 200

Infusion, 98 cold and warm, 147

Iris, 42 florentina, 42

Iwarankusa, 54

Jasmine, 34 emulsion, 232 extract of, 155 hair oil, 255

Jasminum odoratissimum, 34

Jockey club, 178

Juniperus virginiana, 27

Jonquille, extract of, 157 perfume, 179 pomade, 298

Kaloderm, 279

Karsi, 286

Kiss me quick perfume, 180

Kohol, 287

Lait antéphelique, 274 d’amandes amères, 238 de concombre, 237 de lilas, 236 de pistaches, 238 de roses, 238 virginal, 236

Lathyrus tuberosus, 50

Laurier, 22

Laurier-cérise, 29

Laurus nobilis, 22

Lavande, 34

Lavandula vera, 34

Lavender, 34 essence of, 155 perfumes, 183 sachet powder, 210

Leap-year bouquet, 184

Lemon, 35 essence of, 156 grass, 30, 35 grass, essence of, 153

Lignum Camphoræ, 25 Cedri, 27 Rhodii, 45 Sassafras, 47

Lilac, 36 extract of, 153 milk, 236 perfume, 174

Lilas, 36

Lilionese, 275

Lilium candidum, 36

Lily, 36 extract of, 156 perfume, 185 of the valley extract, 185 of the valley perfume, 172, 185

Limon, 35

Liquidambar orientalis, L. styraciflua, 49

Liquidamber, 49

Lip salve, white and red, 243 salves and cold-creams, 238

Lis, 36

Liver of sulphur, 84

Lonicera Caprifolium, 33

Lotion for chapped skin, 276

Lotions, face, 274

Macassar oil, 256

Mace, 36

Maceration, 98

Maces, 36

Magnolia, 37 extract of, 156 grandiflora, 37 perfume, 185

Mallard’s toilet vinegar, 206

Marjolaine, 37

Marjoram, 37

Marrow cream, 251

Marshal sachet powder, 210

Meadow-sweet, 38

Meals and pastes, 233

Melaleuca Cajuputi, 25

Melanogène, 289

Melissa officinalis, 22

Mentha aquatica, M. crispa, M. piperita, M. viridis, 38

Menthe crépue, poivrée, verde, 38

Mignonette, 45

Milk, vegetable, 235

Mille fleurs sachet powder, 211

Mint, 38

Moschus, 59

Moss-rose, extract of, 161 perfume, 193

Mousseline perfume, 188

Mouth, preparations for the care of, 257 washes, 265

Murexide paint, 274

Muscade, 40

Musk, 59 paste, 279 perfume, 188 tincture of, 156

Musk-seed, 38 tincture of, 152

Muslin sachet powder, 211

Myrcia acris, 22

Myristica, 40

Myristica fragrans, 36

Myrrh, 39 tooth tincture, 267

Myrrha, 39

Myrtle, extract of, 157 leaves, 39 perfume, 189

Myrtus communis, 39

Nail powder, 244

Narcissus, 40 extract of, 157 Jonquilla, 40 perfume, 189 poeticus, 40

Nardostachys Jatamansi, 48

Navy’s nosegay, 189

Neroli, extract of, 158

New-mown hay, 177, 189

Nitrobenzol, 83

Nitrous ether, 81

Nosegay perfume, 172

Nutmeg, 40 butter, 129

Odors, extraction of, 87 from pomades, abstraction of, 102 from the vegetable kingdom, 13

Œillet, 44

Œnanthic ether, 71

Oil, benzoated, 255 crystallized, 249 macassar, 256 of allspice, 132 of anise, 119 of bergamot, 119 of bitter almonds, 74, 120 of bitter almonds, artificial, 83 of burdock root, 256 of cajuput, 120 of calamus, 120 of caraway, 125 of cascarilla, 121 of cassia, 121, 137 of cassie, 119 of cedar, 121 of chamomile, 120 of cherry-laurel, 125 of cinnamon, 137 of citron, 122 of citronella, 122 of clove, 130 of coriander, 123 of crispmint, 129 of culilaban, 125 of elder, 124 of geranium, 123 of heliotrope, 124 of hyssop, 137 of jasmine, 224 of laurel, 127 of lavender, 125 of lemon, 122, 127 of lemon-grass, 122 of lilac, 123 of lily, 126 of mace, 129 of magnolia, 127 of marjoram, 127 of meadowsweet, 135 of melissa, 128 of mignonette, 133 of mirbane, 83 of myrtle, 130 of narcissus, 130 of néroli bigarade, 131 of néroli pétale, 131 of nutmeg, 129 of orange, 131 of orange bigarade, 131 of orange flowers, 130 of patchouly, 132 of peppermint, 129 of petit grain, 131 of pink, 130 of Portugal, 131 of reseda, 133 of rhodium, 134 of rose, 133 of rosemary, 134 of rue, 133 of sage, 134 of sandal wood, 134 of santal, 134 of sassafras, 135 of spearmint, 129 of star-anise, 135 of sweet bay, 127 of sweet pea, 132 of Swiss herbs, 255 of syringa, 132 of thyme, 135 of turpentine, 138 of vanilla, 136 of verbena, 136 of vetiver, 136 of violet, 136 of wallflower, 126 of wintergreen, 136 of ylang-ylang, 137 palm, 299

Oils, essential, adulterations of, and their recognition, 139 essential, see also Essential oils fusel, 71 of mint, 128 purification of, 79

Oléolisse, 297

Oleum Amygdalæ amaræ, 74, 120 Anisi Stellati, 135 Cajuputi, 120 Calami, 120 Cari, 125 Caryophylli, 130 Cassiæ, 121, 137 Chamomillæ, 120 Cinnamomi, 137 Citri, 122 Coriandri, 123 Culilavani, 125 Gaultheriæ, 136 Hyssopi, 137 Illicii, 135 Ivaranchusæ, 136 Lauri, 127 Lavandulæ, 125 Limonis, 122, 127 Macidis, 129 Majoranæ, 127 Menthæ crispæ, 129 Menthæ piperitæ, 129 Myristicæ, 129 Naphæ, 130 Neroli, 130 Palmæ, 42 Rosmarini, 134 Rutæ, 133 Salviæ, 134 Sambuci, 124 Santali, 134 Sassafras, 135 Spirææ, 135 Terebinthinæ, 138 Thymi, 135 Unonæ odoratissimæ, 137

Olibanum, 40 tincture of, 135

Olivine, 233

Olla podrida sachet powder, 211

Opopanax, 41

Orange flower, extract of, 158 flower pomade, 252 flowers, 41 peel, 41

Origanum, 42 Majorana (vulgare), 37

Orris root, 42 root, tincture of, 163

Otto of rose, 133

Oxidation of essential oils, 18

Oxide of tin, 86

Palm oil, 42, 299

Paper, fumigating, 218

Paraffin, 83

Paste, Spanish, 224

Pastes and meals, 233

Pastilles du sérail, 216 enbaumées, 217 odoriférantes, 217 orientales, 215, 264

Pastils, fumigating, 214

Patchouly, 43 essence of, 158 perfume, 191 powder, 212

Pâte camphorique, 240 d’amandes au miel, 234 d’amandes simple, 233 dentifrice, 261

Pear ether, 81

Pearl white, 86, 271, 278

Peau d’Espagne, 222

Pelargonium roseum, 32

Pencils, fumigating, 216

Peppermint, 38 essence of, 156

Perfumery, cosmetic, 269 division of, 166 history of, 1 hygienic and cosmetic, 225

Perfumes, acid, 202 ammoniacal, 199 dry, 207 used for fumigation, 214

Permanganate of potassium, 76, 267, 287

Peroxide of hydrogen, 291

Persian sachet powder, 212

Peru balsam, 43 balsam, tincture of, 159 hair oil, 256

Petroleum ether, 65

Philadelphus coronarius, 34, 51

Philocome hair oil, 256 pomade, 254

Pimenta, 21

Pimpinella Anisum, 21

Pine-apple, 44 ether, 81

Pine-needle odor, 197

Pink, 44

Pink, extract of, 158 perfume, 190

Piperonal, 33

Pistachio meal, 235 milk, 238

Place of growth of plants, influence on their odor, 11

Plumeria, 44

Pogostemon Patchouly, 43

Pois de senteur, 50

Polianthus tuberosa, 53

Polyanthus perfume, 190

Pomade à fleurs, 250 à fleurs d’oranges, 252 à graisse d’ours, 250 à la rose pour les lèvres, 243 à moëlle de bœuf, 251 à quinquine, 251 blanche pour les lèvres, 243 cerise, 243 de héliotrope, 252 des violettes, 253 divine, 241 philocome, 254

Pomades and hair oils, 245 formulas for, 247

Pomatum, stick, 294

Portugal oil, 257 sachet powder, 212

Potassii sulphuretum, 84 permanganas, 76

Potassium permanganate hair dye, 287 permanganate water, 267 sulphide of, 84

Potpourri sachet powder, 212

Poudre à la rose, 277 à la violette, 278 blanche surfine, 278 de la reine, 221 d’encens, 217 de pistaches, 277 de riz, 278 impériale, 221 pour les ongles, 244 royale, 221

Poudres encensoires, 220

Powder, incense, 217

Powders, toilet, 276

Preparations for the care of the mouth, 257

Pressure, 88

Preston salt, 202

Prunus laurocerasus, 29

Pterocarpus santalinus, 47

Pulchérine, 276

Pumice stone objectionable as a tooth powder, 258

Pyrogallic acid, 84

Queen Victoria’s perfume, 190

Quinine tooth powder, 262

Racine de glaïeule, 50

Radix Calami, 50 Iridis florentinæ, 42 Sumbul, 49

Rancidity of fats, prevention of, 79

Red colors, 299

Reine des prés, 38

Reseda, 45 essence of, 191 extract of, 159 odorata, 45

Resina Opopanax, 41

Resinification, 18

Rhatany, 300

Rhodium, 45

Rhusma, 294

Ribbons, fumigating, 219

Ribes niger, 27

Robinia pseudoacacia, 27

Romarin, 46

Rondeletia odoratissima perfume, 191

Rosa, 45 centifolia perfume, 192

Rose, 45 essence or extract of, 159, 161 milk, 238 mousseuse perfume, 193 odors, 192 sachet powder, 213 théa perfume, 193 tooth powder, 264 water, 160

Rosebud cold-cream, 244

Rosemary, 46

Roses blanches perfume, 193 jaunes perfume, 192 jumelles perfume, 193

Rosmarinus officinalis, 46

Rouge alloxane, 274 en feuilles, 272 en pâte, 273 en tasses, 273 végétal rose liquide, 272

Rouges, 272

Royal Horse-Guard’s bouquet, 177 nosegay, 192

Rue, 46

Ruta graveolens, 46

Sachets, formulas for, 209

Saffron, 298

Safrol, 47

Sage, 46

Salicylated tooth tincture, 268

Salicylic acid, preservation of fats by, 79

Salt, inexhaustible, 200 smelling, white, 201 Preston, 202

Salvia officinalis, 46

Sambucus canadensis, 32 niger, 32

Santal, extract of, 162 sachet powder, 213 wood, 47

Santalum album, 47

Sassafras, S. officinalis, 47

Sauge, 46

Savon dentifrice, 260

Savonettes camphoriques, 241 d’amandes, 244

Scent bags, 207

Schnuda, 274

Schoenanthe, 35

Seiffert’s extraction apparatus, 105

Sel blanc parfumé, 201 inépuisable, 200 volatil, 202

Semen Abelmoschi, 38 Anethi, 31 Anisi stellati, 48 Carvi, 25

Separating funnel, 89, 98

Separators, 96

Seringat, 51

Skin, chapped, lotion for, 275 cosmetics and face lotions, 270 cosmetics, red, 272 cosmetics, white, 271 gloss, 278

Smelling salt, white, 201

Sodii boras, 75

Soumboul, 49

Spanish paste, 224 skin, 222

Spearmint, 38

Spermaceti, 85

Spiced vinegar, 204

Spic-nard, 48

Spike-lavender, 35

Spikenard, 48

Spiræa ulmaria, 38

Sponges, bleaching of, 302

Spring kisses, 170 nosegay perfume, 194

Starch, 84

Star-anise, 48

Steam still, 110

Stick pomatum, 294

Stills, 92 et seq.

Storax, 49 tincture of, 162

Styrax Benzoin, 23

Suave perfume, 194

Subnitrate of bismuth, 86

Sugar tooth powder, 264

Sulphide of potassium, 84

Sumbul root, 49

Sureau, 32

Sweet almonds, 50

Sweet-brier, extract of, 161

Sweet-flag root, 50

Sweet gum, 49

Sweet-pea, 50 essence of, 196 extract of, 159

Syringa, 51 perfume, 195 vulgaris, 36

Table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points of essential oils, 141

Tables, percentage, of alcohol, 70

Tannin hair dye, 289

Tanno-quinine hair restorer, 283 pomade, 252

Tea-rose, extract of, 162 perfume, 193

Teint de Venus, 276

Teinture chinoise, 287 orientale, 286

Terpineol, 36

Thyme, 51

Thymus Serpyllum, T. vulgaris, 51

Tin, oxide of, 86

Tincture, definition of, 150

Toilet powder, pink, 277 powder, white, 277 powders, 276 utensils, 301 vinegar, Mallard’s, 206 vinegars, 204

Tolu balsam, 51 tincture of, 162

Toluifera Balsamum, 51 Pereiræ, 43

Tonka beans, 52 cream, 253 oil, 257 tincture of, 163

Tooth pastes, 260 powders, 262 soap, 260 tinctures, 265

Transparent pomade, 252

Tuberose, 53 emulsion, 232 extract of, 163

Tulipe odoriférante perfume, 195

Tumeric, 298

Twin-rose perfume, 193

Twin-roses, extract of, 162

Unona odoratissima, 56

Utensils used in the toilet, 301

Vanilla, 53 aromatica, V. planifolia, 53 camphor, 136 cream, 253 oil, 257 pomade, 253 tincture of, 163

Vanillin, 85, 136

Vaselin, 85

Vegetable aromatic substances, chemical constitution of, 15 kingdom, odors from, 13 milk, 235

Venetian chalk, 271

Verbena, 54 extract of, 163

Verbena perfume, 196 sachet powder, 214 triphylla, 54

Verveine, 54

Vetiver, 30, 54 essence of, 165 sachet powder, 214

Vinaigre à la rose, 204 aux épices, 204 aux fleurs d’oranges, 205 aux violettes, 205 de cologne, 205 de lavande, 206 de quatre voleurs, 205 étheré, 206 hygiénique, 205 polyanthe, 207

Vinaigres encensoires, 220

Vinegar, aromatic, 203 Mallard’s toilet, 206 orange-flower, 206 preventive, 205 spiced, 204 toilet, French, 207

Vinegars, toilet, 204

Viola odorata, 54

Violet, 54 cold-cream, 244 color, 301 emulsion, 232 extract of, 163 perfume, 195 pomade, 253 sachet powder, 213, 214

Violettes des montagnes, 197

Violettes (perfume), 195

Virginal milk, 236

Vohl’s extraction apparatus, 110

Volcameria, 55 extract of, 164 inermis, 55 perfume, 197

Wallflower, 55 extract of, 155 perfume, 184

Waters, aromatic, 113, 167

Wax, 85 pomades, 294

West End perfume, 197

Whisker dye, 292

White, French, 271 pearl, dry, 278 rose, extract of, 162 rose perfume, 193

Wintergreen, 55 extract of, 165 perfume, 198

Yacht club perfume, 198

Yellow colors, 298

Yield of essential oils, 113

Ylang-ylang, 56 perfume, 198

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and punctuation remains unchanged.

The larger tables have been re-organised to fit more readily within page constraints.

Italics are represented thus _italic_, bold thus =bold=.