Perfumes and their preparation
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE UTENSILS USED IN THE TOILET.
In the toilet, besides combs and hair brushes, use is made of powder puffs, tooth brushes, and bath sponges. Powder puffs are made from swan skins, but should be used rather for the even division of the powder or paint than for its application. For the latter purpose a piece of soft glove or chamois leather is best.
The commercial tooth brushes are almost without exception objectionable owing to the stiffness of the bristles. A suitable tooth brush should be made of very soft, flexible bristles, lest it wear away the enamel.
Particular attention should be devoted to bath sponges. Their value is proportionate to the fineness of the pores, their softness and elasticity, and their spherical shape. Crude sponges are best cleansed by being placed in dilute hydrochloric acid which dissolves the calcareous particles adhering to them.
They are bleached as follows.
Free them as far as possible from sand and other foreign matters. Then wash them thoroughly with water, and press them. Next introduce them into a solution of permanganate of potassium containing one ounce of the salt in a gallon; leave them in this liquid two or three minutes; then take them out, express the liquid (which can be several times used over again), wash them with water until no more violet-tinted liquid runs from them, and then immerse them in a solution of one part of hyposulphite of sodium in twenty parts of water, to which immediately before dipping the sponges one part of hydrochloric acid has been added. When the sponge’s are white, remove them and wash them thoroughly with water.
After prolonged use, bath sponges lose their elasticity and softness. These properties can be restored by dipping the sponges into a mixture of one part by measure of glycerin and eight parts of water, pressing out the excess of the liquid and allowing them to dry. The small quantity of glycerin which they contain prevents their hardening.
INDEX.
À la mode perfume, 186
Absorption, 101
Acacia farnesiana, 26
Acetic ether, 80
Acid, acetic, 76 benzoic, 74 carbonic, apparatus, 112 carbonic, for absorption of odors, 102 perfumes, 202 pyrogallic, 84 salicylic, preservation of fats by, 79
Acorus Calamus, 50
Adulteration of essential oils with alcohol, 144 of essential oils with fixed oils, 144 of essential oils with other essential oils, 143 of essential oils with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, 145
Adulterations of essential oils and their recognition, 139
Alcohol, 63 absolute, manufacture of, 68 amyl, 71 percentage tables of, 70 source of, influence on perfumes, 72
Alcoholometer, Tralles’, 69
Alkanet, 299
Alloxan, 73, 274
Allspice, 21
Allspice, essence of, 159
Almond and honey paste, 234 balls, 244 cold-cream, 243 cream, 230 meal, 234 paste, simple, 233
Almonds, bitter, 24 sweet, 50
Aloysia citriodora, 54
Amandes amères, 24
Amandes douces, 50
Amandine, 230
Ambergris, 57 tincture of, 151
Ambra grisea, 57
Ammonia, 73 carbonate of, 74
Ammoniacal perfumes, 199
Amygdala amara, 24 dulcis, 50
Amyl alcohol, 71
Ananas, 44
Ancients, perfumery among the, 2
Andropogon citratus, 30, 35 laniger, 30 muricatus, 30, 54 Nardus, 29 Schoenanthus, 30
Aneth, 31
Anethum graveolens, 31
Animal substances used in perfumery, 57
Anise, 21
Anti-Odorin, 278
Apple ether, 81
Aromatic substances, division of, according to their origin, 8 substances in general, 6 substances, relative strength of, 7 substances, special characteristics of, 118 substances, vegetable, chemical constitution of, 15 substances, vegetable, employed in perfumery, 20 vinegar, 203 waters, 113, 167
Aspic, 35
Attar of rose, 133
Auricome, 291
Badiane, 48
Baguettes encensoires, 216
Baisers du printemps, 170
Balm, 22
Balsamodendron Kafal, 41 Myrrha, 39
Balsamum peruvianum, 43 tolutanum, 51
Bandolines, 296
Barium sulphide, 293
Baume de Milan pour les cheveux, 283 du Pérou, 43 de Tolou, 51
Bay rum, 284 sweet, 22 West Indian, 22
Beard producer, 284 wax, 295
Bear’s-grease pomade, 250
Beef-marrow pomade, 251
Benjoin, 23
Benzene, 66
Benzin, 66
Benzoated oil, 255
Benzoic acid, 74 acid, sublimed, manufacture of, 75
Benzoin, 23 and benzoic acid, use of, for preventing rancidity of fats, 79 pomade, 248 tincture of, 151
Benzol, 66
Bergamot, 24 essence of, 152
Bisamkörner, 38
Bismuth, subnitrate of, 86
Bismuth white, 86, 271
Bisulphide of carbon, 66
Bitter almond, essence of, 152 almond milk, 238 almonds, 24
Black color, 301
Blanc de bismuth, 86 de perles, 86, 278 français, 271 perle liquide, 271
Bleu végetal pour les veines, 273
Blossom pomade, 250
Blue colors, 300
Bois de camphre, 25 de cèdre, 27 de rose, 45
Borated tooth powder, 262 tooth tincture, 266
Borax, 75
Bouquet à la maréchale, 186 cosmopolite, 180 court, 173 d’Andorre, 171 de Chypre, 172 de fleurs, 172 de flore, 176 de la cour, 171 de l’Alhambra, 169 de l’amour, 169 de Stamboul, 194 d’Esterhazy, 173 de Virginie, 195 des chasseurs, 171 des délices, 172 d’Irlande, 177 du Bosphore, 171 du Japon, 178 heliotrope, 194 leap-year, 184 Royal Horse-Guard’s, 177
Bouquets, manufacture of, 167
Brillantines, 296
Bromelia Ananas, 44
Brown color, 301
Bruges ribbons, 219
Buckingham flowers, 170
Cachous aromatisées, 263
Cajuput leaves, 25
Calamus, essence of, 152
Calcium sulphide, 292
Camphor, 121 balls, 241
Camphor cold-cream, 240 ice, 240 wood, 25
Camphorated chalk tooth powder, 262 Cologne water, 266
Canelle, 27
Cantharidal pomade, 248
Cantharides, tincture of, 281
Caramel, 301
Carbon, bisulphide of, 66
Carbonate of ammonia, 74
Carbonic acid apparatus, 112 acid for absorption of odors, 102
Carmine, 299
Carthamin red, 299
Carum Carvi, 25
Carvi, 25
Caryophylli, 30
Caryophyllus aromaticus, 30
Cascarilla bark, 26 gratissima, 26
Cassia, 28
Cassie, 26, 28 extract of, 151
Castor, Castoreum, 58 tincture of, 152
Castor-oil pomade, 252
Cedar, essence of, 152 perfume, 174 tincture of, 152 wood, 27
Cèdre du Libanon perfume, 174
Cedrus libanotica, 27
Ceylon sachet powder, 209
Chalk, prepared, manufacture of, 261 Venetian, 271
Chapped skin, lotion for, 275
Characteristics, special, of aromatic substances, 118
Charcoal objectionable as a tooth powder, 259 tooth powder, 263
Cheiranthus Cheiri, 55
Chemical constitution of vegetable aromatic substances, 15 products used for the preparation of perfumes, 68 products used in perfumery, 63
Chemicals used for the extraction of aromatic substances, 64
Cherry salve, 243
Cherrylaurel leaves, 29
Chèvre-feuille, 33
China rose perfume, 192 roses, extract of, 161
Chinese gelatin, 80 tooth powder, 264
Chloral mouth wash, 267
Chloroform, 65
Chlorophyll, 300
Cinchona bark tooth powder, 262 pomade, 251
Cinnamomum, 27
Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, 31 zeylanicum, 28
Cinnamon, 27 Chinese, 28 tincture of, 165
Circassian pomade, 248
Cire à moustaches, 295
Citron, 28 flowers, 29
Citronella, 29 essence of, 153
Citrus Aurantium, 41 Bergamia, 24 limetta, 35 Limonum, 35 medica, 28 vulgaris, 41
Civet, 62 tincture of, 165
Civetta, 62
Clous de girofle, 30
Clove, 30 essence of, 157
Cold-creams and lip salves, 238
Cologne cold-cream, 242 water, 180
Colors used in perfumery, 87, 297
Concombre, 31
Convallaria perfume, 172
Convolvulus floridus, 45 scoparius, 45
Cortex Aurantii, 41 Cascarillæ, 26 Culilavan, 31
Cosmetic perfumery, 225, 269
Cosmetics, hair, 280 skin, and face lotions, 270 skin, red, 272 skin, white, 271
Couronne de fleurs, 173
Court bouquet, 173
Craie venétienne, 271
Crême de Cologne, 242 de moëlle, 251 de ricine, 252 de vanille, 253 de violettes, 244
Crinochrom, 290
Crisp mint, 38
Croton Eluteria, 26
Crystallized oil, 249
Cucumber, 31 cold-cream, 242 extract of, 154 milk, 237
Cucumis sativus, 31
Culilaban bark, 31
Cuminum Cyminum, 26
Curcuma, 298
Currant, black, 27
Cuscus, 30, 54
Cuttlefish-bone tooth powder 263
Cyprian sachet powder, 209
Dandelion milk, 237
Depilatories, 292
Dianthus caryophyllus, 44
Dill, 31
Dipteryx odorata, 52
Displacement, 111
Distillation, 92 fractional, 143
Divine pomade, 241
Dog-rose perfume, 193
Double pomades, 249
Drop presses, 90
Dry perfumes, 207
Dye, black, 288 brown, 288 vegetable, 287
Eau anathérine, 265 d’Afrique, 290 d’anges, 39 d’Athènes, 281 de Berlin, 170 de Botot, 265 de Cologne, 180 de fleurs, 281 de fontaine de jouvence, 291 de laurier, 282 de lavande à mille fleurs, 184 de lavande ambrée, 183 de lavande double, 184 de Leipsic, 184 de Lisbonne, 185 de Luce, 202 de Mialhe, 267 de Milan, 266 de mille fleurs, 186 de mille fleurs à palmarose, 187 de perles, 276 de romarin, 282 de rose triple, 160 de roses, 283 de salvia, 268 de violettes, 268 du Portugal, 190 glycerinée aux cantharides, 281 hongroise, 195 japonaise, 178 lenticuleuse, 275 saponique, 282 Victoria, 282
Eaux aromatisées, 113 encensoires, 220
Ecorce culilaban, 31 d’oranges, 41
Eglantine perfume, 193
Elais guineensis, 42
Elder flowers, 32
Emulsions, 227, 230
Encens, 40
Enfleurage, 101
Esprit de roses triple, 161
Ess. bouquet, 175
Essence de roses blanches, 162
Essence de roses jaunes, 161 de roses jumelles, 162 de styrax, 162 definition of, 150 des bouquets, 175 meaning of the French term, 14 of mirbane, 83
Essences dentifrices, 265 directions for making, 150 employed in perfumery, 146 fruit, 82 removal of fat from, 149
Essential oil a misnomer, 14 oils, adulteration of, with alcohol, 144 oils, adulteration of, with fixed oils, 144 oils, adulteration of, with other essential oils, 143 oils, adulteration of, with paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, 145 oils, adulterations of, and their recognition, 139 oils, chemical and physical properties of, 16 oils, final purification of, 112 oils, oxygenation of, 18 oils, preservation of, 19 oils, table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points of, 141 oils, yield of, 113
Esterhazy bouquet, 173
Ether, 64 acetic, 80 apple, 81 nitrous, 81 œnanthic, 71 pear, 81 petroleum, 65 pine-apple, 81
Ethers, fruit, 81, 82
Eugenia Pimenta, 21
Excelsior extraction apparatus, 107
Extract, definition of, 150
Extraction, 103 apparatus, 103 et seq. of aromatic substances, chemicals used for, 64 of odors, 87
Extracts, directions for making, 150 employed in perfumery, 146
Extrait d’amande, 152 d’ambre, 169 d’ambregris, 151 d’ambrette, 152 de baume de tolou, 162 de benjoin, 151 de bergamotte, 252 de bois de cèdre, 152 de canelle, 165 de cassie, 151 de castoreum, 152 de cèdre, 152 de chèvre-feuille, 153, 176 de civette, 165 de clous de girofles, 157 de concombre, 154 de fleurs d’oranges, 158 de gaulthérie, 165 de giroflé, 155, 184 de glaïeul, 152 d’églantine, 161 de héliotrope, 154, 176 de jasmin, 155 de jonquille, 157, 179 de lavande, 155 de lilas, 153, 174 de limon, 156 de lys, 156, 185 de magnolia, 156, 185 de menthe, 156 de mignonette, 159 de musc, 156, 188 de myrte, 157, 189 de narcisse, 157, 189 d’encens, 165 de néroli, 158 de patchouli, 158, 191 de Pérou, 159 de piment, 159 de pois de senteur, 159, 190 de rosa théa, 162 de rose, 159 de roses mousseuses, 161 de roses triple, 161 de santal, 162 de Schoenanthe, 153 de tonka, 163 de tuberose, 163 de vanille, 163 de verveine, 163, 196 de vétiver, 165 de violette, 163 de volcameria, 164 d’iris, 163 d’oeillet, 158, 190 d’oliban, 165 végétal, 281
Fabæ Tonkæ, 52
Face lotions, 274
Farine d’amandes, 234 de pistaches, 235
Fats, 77 purification of, 77, 246 rancidity of, prevention of, 79
Fennel, 32
Fenouil, 32
Ferula Sumbul, 49
Fèves de Tonka, 52
Field-flower sachet powder, 209
Fiori d’Italia, 174
Fleurs de citron, 29 de mai perfume, 172 de Montpellier, 187 des champs, 188 d’oranges, 41 solsticiales, 194
Florentine flasks, 96
Flores Aurantii, 41 Citri, 29 Loniceræ, 33 Sambuci, 32 Syringæ, 36
Florida perfume, 175
Flowers of the Isle of Wight perfume, 198
Fœniculum vulgare, 32
Folia Cajuputi, 25 Laurocerasi, 29
Forest-breeze perfume, 197
Formulas for handkerchief perfumes, 169 for pomades and hair oils, 247 for sachets, 209 for toilet vinegars, 204
Fractional distillation, 143
Frangipanni sachet powder, 210
Freckle lotion, 275 milk, 274
French flower farms, annual production of, 10 white, 271
Fructus Citri, 28
Fruit essences, 82 ethers, 80, 82
Fumigating paper, 218 pastils, 214 pencils, 216 powders, 220 ribbons, 219 waters and vinegars, 220
Fumigation, perfumes used for, 214
Funnel, separating, 89, 98
Fusel oils, 71
Garland of flowers perfume, 173
Gaultheria procumbens, 55
Gaulthérie, 55
Gelatin, Chinese, 80
Geranium, 32 essence of, 154
Ginger grass, 30
Giroflé, 55
Glycerin, 82 cold-cream, 240 cosmetic use of, 227 cream, 231 emulsions, 231 jelly, 232
Golden hair water, 291
Grains d’ambrette, 38
Green colors, 300
Gum wax, 49
Hair cosmetics, 280 dye, copper, 290 dye, lead, 286 dyes and depilatories, 285 dyes, double, 288 dyes, silver, 288 simple, 286 oils and pomades, 245 oils, formulas for, 254 restorer, 283 tonics, 283 washes, 281
Handkerchief perfumes, formulas for, 169 perfumes, manufacture of, 167
Hedyosmum flowers, 33
Heliotrope, 33 bouquet, 194 extract of, 154 hair oil, 255 perfume, 176 pomade, 252 sachet powder, 210
Heliotropin, 33
Heliotropium peruvianum, 33
Hepar sulphuris, 84
Herba Majoranæ, 37
Hibiscus Abelmoschus, 38
History of perfumery, 1
Homœopathic chalk tooth powder, 262
Honeysuckle, 33 extract of, 153 perfume, 176
Hovenia perfume, 177
Huile à benjamin, 255 à l’ess-bouquet, 255 crystallisée, 249 de jasmin, 255 de mille fleurs, 188 de palme, 42 héliotrope, 255 philocome, 256
Hungarian beard wax, 295 water, 195
Huntsman’s nosegay, 178
Hydrogen dioxide, 291
Hygienic and cosmetic perfumery, 225
Hyraceum, 59
Hyssop, 34
Hyssopus officinalis, 34
Illicium anisatum, I. religiosum, 48
Incense powder, 217
Indian sachet powder, 210
Inexhaustible salt, 200
Infusion, 98 cold and warm, 147
Iris, 42 florentina, 42
Iwarankusa, 54
Jasmine, 34 emulsion, 232 extract of, 155 hair oil, 255
Jasminum odoratissimum, 34
Jockey club, 178
Juniperus virginiana, 27
Jonquille, extract of, 157 perfume, 179 pomade, 298
Kaloderm, 279
Karsi, 286
Kiss me quick perfume, 180
Kohol, 287
Lait antéphelique, 274 d’amandes amères, 238 de concombre, 237 de lilas, 236 de pistaches, 238 de roses, 238 virginal, 236
Lathyrus tuberosus, 50
Laurier, 22
Laurier-cérise, 29
Laurus nobilis, 22
Lavande, 34
Lavandula vera, 34
Lavender, 34 essence of, 155 perfumes, 183 sachet powder, 210
Leap-year bouquet, 184
Lemon, 35 essence of, 156 grass, 30, 35 grass, essence of, 153
Lignum Camphoræ, 25 Cedri, 27 Rhodii, 45 Sassafras, 47
Lilac, 36 extract of, 153 milk, 236 perfume, 174
Lilas, 36
Lilionese, 275
Lilium candidum, 36
Lily, 36 extract of, 156 perfume, 185 of the valley extract, 185 of the valley perfume, 172, 185
Limon, 35
Liquidambar orientalis, L. styraciflua, 49
Liquidamber, 49
Lip salve, white and red, 243 salves and cold-creams, 238
Lis, 36
Liver of sulphur, 84
Lonicera Caprifolium, 33
Lotion for chapped skin, 276
Lotions, face, 274
Macassar oil, 256
Mace, 36
Maceration, 98
Maces, 36
Magnolia, 37 extract of, 156 grandiflora, 37 perfume, 185
Mallard’s toilet vinegar, 206
Marjolaine, 37
Marjoram, 37
Marrow cream, 251
Marshal sachet powder, 210
Meadow-sweet, 38
Meals and pastes, 233
Melaleuca Cajuputi, 25
Melanogène, 289
Melissa officinalis, 22
Mentha aquatica, M. crispa, M. piperita, M. viridis, 38
Menthe crépue, poivrée, verde, 38
Mignonette, 45
Milk, vegetable, 235
Mille fleurs sachet powder, 211
Mint, 38
Moschus, 59
Moss-rose, extract of, 161 perfume, 193
Mousseline perfume, 188
Mouth, preparations for the care of, 257 washes, 265
Murexide paint, 274
Muscade, 40
Musk, 59 paste, 279 perfume, 188 tincture of, 156
Musk-seed, 38 tincture of, 152
Muslin sachet powder, 211
Myrcia acris, 22
Myristica, 40
Myristica fragrans, 36
Myrrh, 39 tooth tincture, 267
Myrrha, 39
Myrtle, extract of, 157 leaves, 39 perfume, 189
Myrtus communis, 39
Nail powder, 244
Narcissus, 40 extract of, 157 Jonquilla, 40 perfume, 189 poeticus, 40
Nardostachys Jatamansi, 48
Navy’s nosegay, 189
Neroli, extract of, 158
New-mown hay, 177, 189
Nitrobenzol, 83
Nitrous ether, 81
Nosegay perfume, 172
Nutmeg, 40 butter, 129
Odors, extraction of, 87 from pomades, abstraction of, 102 from the vegetable kingdom, 13
Œillet, 44
Œnanthic ether, 71
Oil, benzoated, 255 crystallized, 249 macassar, 256 of allspice, 132 of anise, 119 of bergamot, 119 of bitter almonds, 74, 120 of bitter almonds, artificial, 83 of burdock root, 256 of cajuput, 120 of calamus, 120 of caraway, 125 of cascarilla, 121 of cassia, 121, 137 of cassie, 119 of cedar, 121 of chamomile, 120 of cherry-laurel, 125 of cinnamon, 137 of citron, 122 of citronella, 122 of clove, 130 of coriander, 123 of crispmint, 129 of culilaban, 125 of elder, 124 of geranium, 123 of heliotrope, 124 of hyssop, 137 of jasmine, 224 of laurel, 127 of lavender, 125 of lemon, 122, 127 of lemon-grass, 122 of lilac, 123 of lily, 126 of mace, 129 of magnolia, 127 of marjoram, 127 of meadowsweet, 135 of melissa, 128 of mignonette, 133 of mirbane, 83 of myrtle, 130 of narcissus, 130 of néroli bigarade, 131 of néroli pétale, 131 of nutmeg, 129 of orange, 131 of orange bigarade, 131 of orange flowers, 130 of patchouly, 132 of peppermint, 129 of petit grain, 131 of pink, 130 of Portugal, 131 of reseda, 133 of rhodium, 134 of rose, 133 of rosemary, 134 of rue, 133 of sage, 134 of sandal wood, 134 of santal, 134 of sassafras, 135 of spearmint, 129 of star-anise, 135 of sweet bay, 127 of sweet pea, 132 of Swiss herbs, 255 of syringa, 132 of thyme, 135 of turpentine, 138 of vanilla, 136 of verbena, 136 of vetiver, 136 of violet, 136 of wallflower, 126 of wintergreen, 136 of ylang-ylang, 137 palm, 299
Oils, essential, adulterations of, and their recognition, 139 essential, see also Essential oils fusel, 71 of mint, 128 purification of, 79
Oléolisse, 297
Oleum Amygdalæ amaræ, 74, 120 Anisi Stellati, 135 Cajuputi, 120 Calami, 120 Cari, 125 Caryophylli, 130 Cassiæ, 121, 137 Chamomillæ, 120 Cinnamomi, 137 Citri, 122 Coriandri, 123 Culilavani, 125 Gaultheriæ, 136 Hyssopi, 137 Illicii, 135 Ivaranchusæ, 136 Lauri, 127 Lavandulæ, 125 Limonis, 122, 127 Macidis, 129 Majoranæ, 127 Menthæ crispæ, 129 Menthæ piperitæ, 129 Myristicæ, 129 Naphæ, 130 Neroli, 130 Palmæ, 42 Rosmarini, 134 Rutæ, 133 Salviæ, 134 Sambuci, 124 Santali, 134 Sassafras, 135 Spirææ, 135 Terebinthinæ, 138 Thymi, 135 Unonæ odoratissimæ, 137
Olibanum, 40 tincture of, 135
Olivine, 233
Olla podrida sachet powder, 211
Opopanax, 41
Orange flower, extract of, 158 flower pomade, 252 flowers, 41 peel, 41
Origanum, 42 Majorana (vulgare), 37
Orris root, 42 root, tincture of, 163
Otto of rose, 133
Oxidation of essential oils, 18
Oxide of tin, 86
Palm oil, 42, 299
Paper, fumigating, 218
Paraffin, 83
Paste, Spanish, 224
Pastes and meals, 233
Pastilles du sérail, 216 enbaumées, 217 odoriférantes, 217 orientales, 215, 264
Pastils, fumigating, 214
Patchouly, 43 essence of, 158 perfume, 191 powder, 212
Pâte camphorique, 240 d’amandes au miel, 234 d’amandes simple, 233 dentifrice, 261
Pear ether, 81
Pearl white, 86, 271, 278
Peau d’Espagne, 222
Pelargonium roseum, 32
Pencils, fumigating, 216
Peppermint, 38 essence of, 156
Perfumery, cosmetic, 269 division of, 166 history of, 1 hygienic and cosmetic, 225
Perfumes, acid, 202 ammoniacal, 199 dry, 207 used for fumigation, 214
Permanganate of potassium, 76, 267, 287
Peroxide of hydrogen, 291
Persian sachet powder, 212
Peru balsam, 43 balsam, tincture of, 159 hair oil, 256
Petroleum ether, 65
Philadelphus coronarius, 34, 51
Philocome hair oil, 256 pomade, 254
Pimenta, 21
Pimpinella Anisum, 21
Pine-apple, 44 ether, 81
Pine-needle odor, 197
Pink, 44
Pink, extract of, 158 perfume, 190
Piperonal, 33
Pistachio meal, 235 milk, 238
Place of growth of plants, influence on their odor, 11
Plumeria, 44
Pogostemon Patchouly, 43
Pois de senteur, 50
Polianthus tuberosa, 53
Polyanthus perfume, 190
Pomade à fleurs, 250 à fleurs d’oranges, 252 à graisse d’ours, 250 à la rose pour les lèvres, 243 à moëlle de bœuf, 251 à quinquine, 251 blanche pour les lèvres, 243 cerise, 243 de héliotrope, 252 des violettes, 253 divine, 241 philocome, 254
Pomades and hair oils, 245 formulas for, 247
Pomatum, stick, 294
Portugal oil, 257 sachet powder, 212
Potassii sulphuretum, 84 permanganas, 76
Potassium permanganate hair dye, 287 permanganate water, 267 sulphide of, 84
Potpourri sachet powder, 212
Poudre à la rose, 277 à la violette, 278 blanche surfine, 278 de la reine, 221 d’encens, 217 de pistaches, 277 de riz, 278 impériale, 221 pour les ongles, 244 royale, 221
Poudres encensoires, 220
Powder, incense, 217
Powders, toilet, 276
Preparations for the care of the mouth, 257
Pressure, 88
Preston salt, 202
Prunus laurocerasus, 29
Pterocarpus santalinus, 47
Pulchérine, 276
Pumice stone objectionable as a tooth powder, 258
Pyrogallic acid, 84
Queen Victoria’s perfume, 190
Quinine tooth powder, 262
Racine de glaïeule, 50
Radix Calami, 50 Iridis florentinæ, 42 Sumbul, 49
Rancidity of fats, prevention of, 79
Red colors, 299
Reine des prés, 38
Reseda, 45 essence of, 191 extract of, 159 odorata, 45
Resina Opopanax, 41
Resinification, 18
Rhatany, 300
Rhodium, 45
Rhusma, 294
Ribbons, fumigating, 219
Ribes niger, 27
Robinia pseudoacacia, 27
Romarin, 46
Rondeletia odoratissima perfume, 191
Rosa, 45 centifolia perfume, 192
Rose, 45 essence or extract of, 159, 161 milk, 238 mousseuse perfume, 193 odors, 192 sachet powder, 213 théa perfume, 193 tooth powder, 264 water, 160
Rosebud cold-cream, 244
Rosemary, 46
Roses blanches perfume, 193 jaunes perfume, 192 jumelles perfume, 193
Rosmarinus officinalis, 46
Rouge alloxane, 274 en feuilles, 272 en pâte, 273 en tasses, 273 végétal rose liquide, 272
Rouges, 272
Royal Horse-Guard’s bouquet, 177 nosegay, 192
Rue, 46
Ruta graveolens, 46
Sachets, formulas for, 209
Saffron, 298
Safrol, 47
Sage, 46
Salicylated tooth tincture, 268
Salicylic acid, preservation of fats by, 79
Salt, inexhaustible, 200 smelling, white, 201 Preston, 202
Salvia officinalis, 46
Sambucus canadensis, 32 niger, 32
Santal, extract of, 162 sachet powder, 213 wood, 47
Santalum album, 47
Sassafras, S. officinalis, 47
Sauge, 46
Savon dentifrice, 260
Savonettes camphoriques, 241 d’amandes, 244
Scent bags, 207
Schnuda, 274
Schoenanthe, 35
Seiffert’s extraction apparatus, 105
Sel blanc parfumé, 201 inépuisable, 200 volatil, 202
Semen Abelmoschi, 38 Anethi, 31 Anisi stellati, 48 Carvi, 25
Separating funnel, 89, 98
Separators, 96
Seringat, 51
Skin, chapped, lotion for, 275 cosmetics and face lotions, 270 cosmetics, red, 272 cosmetics, white, 271 gloss, 278
Smelling salt, white, 201
Sodii boras, 75
Soumboul, 49
Spanish paste, 224 skin, 222
Spearmint, 38
Spermaceti, 85
Spiced vinegar, 204
Spic-nard, 48
Spike-lavender, 35
Spikenard, 48
Spiræa ulmaria, 38
Sponges, bleaching of, 302
Spring kisses, 170 nosegay perfume, 194
Starch, 84
Star-anise, 48
Steam still, 110
Stick pomatum, 294
Stills, 92 et seq.
Storax, 49 tincture of, 162
Styrax Benzoin, 23
Suave perfume, 194
Subnitrate of bismuth, 86
Sugar tooth powder, 264
Sulphide of potassium, 84
Sumbul root, 49
Sureau, 32
Sweet almonds, 50
Sweet-brier, extract of, 161
Sweet-flag root, 50
Sweet gum, 49
Sweet-pea, 50 essence of, 196 extract of, 159
Syringa, 51 perfume, 195 vulgaris, 36
Table showing the approximate density, boiling and congealing points of essential oils, 141
Tables, percentage, of alcohol, 70
Tannin hair dye, 289
Tanno-quinine hair restorer, 283 pomade, 252
Tea-rose, extract of, 162 perfume, 193
Teint de Venus, 276
Teinture chinoise, 287 orientale, 286
Terpineol, 36
Thyme, 51
Thymus Serpyllum, T. vulgaris, 51
Tin, oxide of, 86
Tincture, definition of, 150
Toilet powder, pink, 277 powder, white, 277 powders, 276 utensils, 301 vinegar, Mallard’s, 206 vinegars, 204
Tolu balsam, 51 tincture of, 162
Toluifera Balsamum, 51 Pereiræ, 43
Tonka beans, 52 cream, 253 oil, 257 tincture of, 163
Tooth pastes, 260 powders, 262 soap, 260 tinctures, 265
Transparent pomade, 252
Tuberose, 53 emulsion, 232 extract of, 163
Tulipe odoriférante perfume, 195
Tumeric, 298
Twin-rose perfume, 193
Twin-roses, extract of, 162
Unona odoratissima, 56
Utensils used in the toilet, 301
Vanilla, 53 aromatica, V. planifolia, 53 camphor, 136 cream, 253 oil, 257 pomade, 253 tincture of, 163
Vanillin, 85, 136
Vaselin, 85
Vegetable aromatic substances, chemical constitution of, 15 kingdom, odors from, 13 milk, 235
Venetian chalk, 271
Verbena, 54 extract of, 163
Verbena perfume, 196 sachet powder, 214 triphylla, 54
Verveine, 54
Vetiver, 30, 54 essence of, 165 sachet powder, 214
Vinaigre à la rose, 204 aux épices, 204 aux fleurs d’oranges, 205 aux violettes, 205 de cologne, 205 de lavande, 206 de quatre voleurs, 205 étheré, 206 hygiénique, 205 polyanthe, 207
Vinaigres encensoires, 220
Vinegar, aromatic, 203 Mallard’s toilet, 206 orange-flower, 206 preventive, 205 spiced, 204 toilet, French, 207
Vinegars, toilet, 204
Viola odorata, 54
Violet, 54 cold-cream, 244 color, 301 emulsion, 232 extract of, 163 perfume, 195 pomade, 253 sachet powder, 213, 214
Violettes des montagnes, 197
Violettes (perfume), 195
Virginal milk, 236
Vohl’s extraction apparatus, 110
Volcameria, 55 extract of, 164 inermis, 55 perfume, 197
Wallflower, 55 extract of, 155 perfume, 184
Waters, aromatic, 113, 167
Wax, 85 pomades, 294
West End perfume, 197
Whisker dye, 292
White, French, 271 pearl, dry, 278 rose, extract of, 162 rose perfume, 193
Wintergreen, 55 extract of, 165 perfume, 198
Yacht club perfume, 198
Yellow colors, 298
Yield of essential oils, 113
Ylang-ylang, 56 perfume, 198
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes
Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and punctuation remains unchanged.
The larger tables have been re-organised to fit more readily within page constraints.
Italics are represented thus _italic_, bold thus =bold=.