Pencillings by the Way Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe

AT SEA.--I have emerged from my berth this morning for the first time since we left the Capes. We have been running six or seven days before a strong northwest gale, which, by t...

AT SEA, OCTOBER 20.--We have had fine weather for progress, so far, running with north and north-westerly winds from eight to ten knots an hour, and making, of course, over two...

HAVRE.--This is one of those places which scribbling travellers hurry through with a crisp mention of their arrival and departure, but, as I have passed a day here upon customho...

PARIS.--It seems to me as if I were going back a month to recall my departure from Havre, my memory is so clouded with later incidents. I was awaked on the morning after I had w...

The salient object in my idea of Paris has always been the Louvre. I have spent some hours in its vast gallery to-day and I am sure it will retain the same prominence in my reco...

I went last night to the French opera, to see the first dancer of the world. The prodigious enthusiasm about her, all over Europe, had, of course, raised my expectations to the...

I met, at a breakfast party, to-day, Joachim Lelewel, the celebrated scholar and patriot of Poland. Having fallen in with a great deal of revolutionary and emigrant society sinc...

I have met Dr. Bowring in Paris, and called upon him to-day with Mr. Morse, by appointment. The translator of the "Ode to the Deity" (from the Russian of Derzhavin) could not by...

Our beautiful and favorite MALIBRAN is playing in Paris this winter. I saw her last night in Desdemona. The other theatres are so attractive, between Taglioni, Robert le Diable...

The garden of the Tuileries is an idle man's paradise. Magnificent as it is in extent, sculptures, and cultivation, we all know that statues may be too dumb, gravel walks too lo...

I had the pleasure to day of being introduced to the young sculptor Foyetiér, the author of the new statue on the terrace of the Tuileries. Aside from his genius, he is interest...

I have spent the day in a long stroll. The wind blew warm and delicious from the south this morning, and the temptation to abandon lessons and lectures was irresistible. Taking...

I accepted, last night, from a French gentleman of high standing, a polite offer of introduction to one of the exclusive gambling clubs of Paris. With the understanding, of cour...

It is March, and the weather has all the characteristics of New-England May. The last two or three days have been deliciously spring-like, clear, sunny, and warm. The gardens of...

The weather still holds warm and bright, as it has been all the month, and the scarcely "premature white pantaloons" appeared yesterday in the Tuileries. The ladies loosen their...

You see by the papers, I presume, the official accounts of the cholera in Paris. It seems very terrible to you, no doubt, at your distance from the scene, and truly it is terrib...

LEGION OF HONOR--PRESENTATION TO THE KING--THE THRONE OF FRANCE--THE QUEEN AND THE PRINCESSES--COUNTESS GUICCIOLI--THE LATE DUEL--THE SEASON OF CARNIVAL--ANOTHER FANCY BALL-- DI...

_Cholera! Cholera!_ It is now the only topic. There is no other interest--no other dread--no other occupation, for Paris. The invitations for parties are _at last_ recalled--the...

It is now the middle of April, and, sitting at my window on the _Rue Rivoli_, I look through one of the long, clipped avenues of the Tuileries, and see an arch of green leaves,...

My room-mate called a day or two since on General Bertrand, and yesterday he returned the visit, and spent an hour at our lodgings. He talked of Napoleon with difficulty, and be...

I take my departure from Paris to-morrow. I have just been making preparations to pack, and it has given me a fit of bad spirits. I have been in France only a few months, but if...

CHALONS, ON THE SAONE.--I have broken my route to stop at this pretty town, and take the steamboat which goes down the Saone to Lyons to-morrow morning. I have travelled two day...

I looked out of my window the last thing before going to bed at Chalons, and the familiar constellation of _Ursa Major_ never shone brighter, and never made me a more agreeable...

I found a day and a half quite enough for Lyons. The views from the mountain and the river were the only things that pleased me. I made the usual dry visit to the library and th...

I entered Avignon after a delicious hour on the Rhone, quite in the mood to do poetical homage to its associations. My dreams of Petrarch and Vaucluse were interrupted by a scen...

The health-magistrate arrived at an early hour, on the morning of our departure from the lazaretto of Villa Franca. He was accompanied by a physician, who was to direct the fumi...

FLORENCE.--It is among the pleasantest things in this very pleasant world, to find oneself for the first time in a famous city. We sallied from the hotel this morning an hour af...

I have got into the "back-stairs interest," as the politicians say, and to-day I wound up the staircase of the _Pitti Palace_, and spent an hour or two in its glorious halls wit...

EXCURSION TO VENICE--AMERICAN ARTISTS--VALLEY OF FLORENCE-- MOUNTAINS OF CARRARA--TRAVELLING COMPANIONS--HIGHLAND TAVERN--MIST AND SUNSHINE--ITALIAN VALLEYS--VIEW OF THE ADRIATI...

EXCURSION TO VENICE CONTINUED--BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF BOLOGNA-- GALLERY OF THE FINE ARTS--RAPHAEL'S ST. CECILIA--PICTURES OF CARRACCI--DOMENICHINOS' MADONNA DEL ROSARIO--GUIDO'S M...

VENICE--THE FESTA--GONDOLIERS--WOMEN--AN ITALIAN SUNSET--THE LANDING--PRISONS OF THE DUCAL PALACE--THE CELLS DESCRIBED BY BYRON--APARTMENT IN WHICH PRISONERS WERE STRANGLED--DUN...

VENICE--SCENES BY MOONLIGHT--THE CANALS--THE ARMENIAN ISLAND--THE ISLAND OF THE INSANE--IMPROVEMENTS MADE BY NAPOLEON--SHADED WALKS--PAVILION AND ARTIFICIAL HILL--ANTIDOTES TO S...

PALACES--PALAZZO GRIMANI--OLD STATUARY--MALE AND FEMALE CHERUBS--THE BATH OF CLEOPATRA--TITIAN'S PALACE--UNFINISHED PICTURE OF THE GREAT MASTER--HIS MAGDALEN AND BUST--HIS DAUGH...

DEPARTURE FROM VENICE--A SUNSET SCENE--PADUA--SPLENDID HOTEL--MANNERS OF THE COUNTRY--VICENZA--MIDNIGHT--LADY RETURNING FROM A PARTY--VERONA--JULIET'S TOMB--THE TOMB OF THE CAPU...

I left Verona with the courier at sunset, and was at _Mantua_ in a few hours. I went to bed in a dirty hotel, the best in the place, and awoke, bitten at every pore by fleas--th...

BATHS OF LUCCA--SARATOGA OF ITALY--HILL SCENERY--RIVER LIMA--FASHIONABLE LODGINGS--THE VILLA--THE DUKE'S PALACE-- MOUNTAINS--VALLEYS--COTTAGES--PEASANTS--WINDING-PATHS-- AMUSEME...

RETURN TO VENICE--CITY OF LUCCA--A MAGNIFICENT WALL--A CULTIVATED AND LOVELY COUNTRY--A COMFORTABLE PALACE--THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF LUCCA--THE APPENINES--MOUNTAIN SCENERY-- MODE...

VENICE--CHURCH OF THE JESUITS--A MARBLE CURTAIN--ORIGINAL OF TITIAN'S MARTYRDOM OF ST. LAWRENCE--A SUMMER MORNING--ARMENIAN ISLAND--VISIT TO A CLOISTER--A CELEBRATED MONK--THE P...

VENICE--SAN MARC'S CHURCH--RECOLLECTIONS OF HOME--FESTA AT THE LIDO--A POETICAL SCENE--AN ITALIAN SUNSET--PALACE OF MANFRINI--PESARO'S PALACE AND COUNTRY RESIDENCE--CHURCH OF SA...

EXCURSION FROM VENICE TO VERONA--TRUTH OF BYRON'S DESCRIPTION OF ITALIAN SCENERY--THE LOMBARDY PEASANTRY--APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY--MANNER OF CULTIVATING THE VINE ON LIVING TRE...

JOURNEY TO THE ETERNAL CITY--TWO ROADS TO ROME--SIENNA--THE PUBLIC SQUARE--AN ITALIAN FAIR--THE CATHEDRAL--THE LIBRARY--THE THREE GRECIAN GRACES--DANDY OFFICERS--PUBLIC PROMENAD...

FIRST DAY IN ROME--SAINT PETER'S--A SOLITARY MONK--STRANGE MUSIC--MICHAEL ANGELO'S MASTERPIECE--THE MUSEUM--LIKENESS OF YOUNG AUGUSTUS--APOLLO BELVIDERE--THE MEDICEAN VENUS--RAP...

I have spent a day at Tivoli with Messrs. Auchmuty and Bissell, of our navy, and one or two others, forming quite an American party. We passed the ruins of the baths of Diocleti...

MASS IN THE SISTINE CHAPEL--THE CARDINALS--THE "LAST JUDGMENT"--THE POPE OF ROME--THE "ADAM AND EVE" CHANTING OF THE PRIESTS--FESTA AT THE CHURCH OF SAN CARLOS--GREGORY THE SIXT...

ROME--A MORNING IN THE STUDIO OF THORWALDSEN--COLOSSAL STATUE OF THE SAVIOUR--STATUE OF BYRON--GIBSON'S ROOMS--CUPID AND PSYCHE--HYLAS WITH THE RIVER NYMPHS--PALAZZO SPADA--STAT...

I left Rome by the magnificent "Porta del Popolo," as the flush of a pearly and spotless Italian sunrise deepened over Soracte. They are so splendid without clouds--these skies...

FLORENCE--GRAND DUKE OF TUSCANY--THE GRAND CHAMBERLAIN--PRINCE DE LIGNE--THE AUSTRIAN AMBASSADOR--THE MARQUIS TORRIGIANI--LEOPOLD OF TUSCANY--VIEWS OF THE VAL D'ARNO--SPLENDID B...

I left Florence for Vallombrosa at daylight on a warm summer's morning, in company with four ladies. We drove along the northern bank of the Arno for four or five miles, passing...

I went with a party this morning to visit _the house of Michael Angelo_. It stands as he lived in it, in the Via Ghibellini, and is still in possession of his descendants. It is...

I heard the best passage of the opera of "Romeo and Juliet" delightfully played in the church of _San Gaetano_ this morning. I was coming from the _café_, where I had been break...

FLORENTINE PECULIARITIES--SOCIETY--BALLS--DUCAL ENTERTAINMENTS--PRIVILEGE OF STRANGERS--FAMILIES OF HIGH RANK--THE EXCLUSIVES--SOIREES--PARTIES OF A RICH BANKER--PEASANT BEAUTY-...

SIENNA.--A day and a half on my second journey to Rome. With a party of four nations inside, and two strangers, probably Frenchmen, in the cabriolet, we have jogged on at some t...

MONTEFIASCONE.--We have stopped for the night at the hotel of this place, so renowned for its wine--the remnant of a bottle of which stands, at this moment, twinkling between me...

APPIAN WAY--TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA--ALBANO--TOMB OF THE CURIATII--ARICIA--TEMPLE OF DIANA--FOUNTAIN OF EGERIA--LAKE OF NEMI--VELLETRI--PONTINE MARSHES--CONVENT--CANAL--TERRACIN...

ROME--FRONT OF ST. PETER'S--EQUIPAGES OF THE CARDINALS-- BEGGARS--BODY OF THE CHURCH--TOMB OF ST. PETER--THE TIBER--FORTRESS-TOMB OF ADRIAN--JEWS' QUARTER--FORUM BARBERINI PALAC...

ANNUAL DOWRIES TO TWELVE GIRLS--VESPERS IN THE CONVENT OF SANTA TRINITA--RUINS OF ROMAN BATHS--A MAGNIFICENT MODERN CHURCH WITHIN TWO ANCIENT HALLS--GARDENS OF MECÆNAS--TOWER WH...

SUMMER WEATHER IN MARCH--BATHS OF CARACALLA--BEGINNING OF THE APPIAN WAY--TOMB OF THE SCIPIOS--CATACOMBS--CHURCH OF SAN SEBASTIANO--YOUNG CAPUCHIN FRIAR--TOMBS OF THE EARLY CHRI...

PALM SUNDAY--SISTINE CHAPEL--ENTRANCE OF THE POPE--THE CHOIR--THE POPE ON HIS THRONE--PRESENTING THE PALMS--PROCESSION--BISHOP ENGLAND'S LECTURE--HOLY TUESDAY--THE MISERERE--ACC...

SEPULCHRE OF CAIUS CESTIUS--PROTESTANT BURYING GROUND--GRAVES OF KEATS AND SHELLEY--SHELLEY'S LAMENT OVER KEATS--GRAVES OF TWO AMERICANS--BEAUTY OF THE BURIAL PLACE--MONUMENTS O...

I have been presented to the Pope this morning, in company with several Americans--Mr. and Mrs. Gray, of Boston, Mr. Atherton and daughters, and Mr. Walsh of Philadelphia, and M...

ROME, 1833.--This is Friday of the holy week. The host, which was deposited yesterday amid its thousand lamps in the Paoline chapel, was taken from its place this morning, in so...

MILAN.--My fifth journey over the Apennines--dull of course. On the second evening we were at Bologna. The long colonnades pleased me less than before, with their crowds of fore...

In going out of the gates of Milan, we met a cart full of peasants, tied together and guarded by _gens d'armes_, the fifth sight of the kind that has crossed us since we passed...

We have been two days and a half loitering down through the Swiss canton of Valais, and admiring every hour the magnificence of these snow-capped and green-footed Alps. The litt...

The water of Lake Leman looks very like other water, though Byron and Shelley were nearly drowned in it; and Copet, a little village on the Helvetian side, where we left three w...

Whether it was that I had offended the genius of the spot, by coming in an omnibus, or from a desire I never can resist in such places, to travesty and ridicule the mock solemni...

PARIS AND LONDON--REASONS FOR LIKING PARIS--JOYOUSNESS OF ITS CITIZENS--LAFAYETTE'S FUNERAL--ROYAL RESPECT AND GRATITUDE--ENGLAND--DOVER--ENGLISH NEATNESS AND COMFORT, AS DISPLA...

LONDON.--From the top of Shooter's Hill we got our first view of London--an indistinct, architectural mass, extending all round to the horizon, and half enveloped in a dim and l...

Spent my first day in London in wandering about the finest part of the West End. It is nonsense to compare it to any other city in the world. From the Horse-Guards to the Regent...

I have just returned from _Ascot races_. Ascot Heath, on which the course is laid out, is a high platform of land, beautifully situated on a hill above Windsor Castle, about twe...

quaker preacher and tailor, whose character is one of the finest I ever met with. He tells a story or two about negro slaves that brought the tears into my eyes. I can read no p...

Dined at Lady Blessington's, in company with several authors, three or four noblemen, and a clever exquisite or two. The authors were Bulwer, the novelist, and his brother, the...

THE ITALIAN OPERA--MADEMOISELLE GRISI--A GLANCE AT LORD BROUGHAM--MRS. NORTON AND LORD SEFTON--RAND, THE AMERICAN PORTRAIT PAINTER--AN EVENING PARTY AT BULWER'S--PALMY STATE OF...

Breakfasted with Mr. Procter (known better as Barry Cornwall). I gave a partial description of this most delightful of poets in a former letter. In the dazzling circle of rank a...

I am obliged to "gazette" Lady Blessington rather more than I should wish, and more than may seem delicate to those, who do not know the central position she occupies in the cir...

I called on Moore with a letter of introduction, and met him at the door of his lodgings. I knew him instantly from the pictures I had seen of him, but was surprised at the dimi...