Category: Travel Writing

Over Fen and Wold

Memorial of a great battle--An ancient fire-cresset--Free feasting!--Country quiet--Travellers’ Tales--Hatfield--An Elizabethan architect--An author’s tomb--Day-dreaming--Mysterious roadside monuments--Great North Road _versus_ Great Northern Railway--Stevenage--Chats by the w...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

2. CHAPTER II

Memorial of a great battle--An ancient fire-cresset--Free feasting!--Country quiet--Travellers’ Tales--Hatfield--An Elizabethan architect--An author’s tomb--Day-dreaming--Myster...

3. CHAPTER III

A gipsy encampment--A puzzling matter--Farming and farmers, past and present--An ancient market-town--A picturesque bit of old-world architecture--Gleaners--Time’s changes--A ho...

4. CHAPTER IV

Biggleswade--“Instituted” or “intruded”!--A poetical will--The river Ivel--A day to be remembered--The art of seeing--Misquotations--The striving after beauty--Stories in stone-...

5. CHAPTER V

The charm of small towns--The Ouse--A pleasant land--Buckden Palace--A joke in stone--The birthplace of Samuel Pepys--Buried treasure--Huntingdon--An old-time interior--A famous...

6. CHAPTER VI

Cromwell’s birthplace--Records of the past--Early photographs--A breezy day--Home-brewed ale--Americans on English scenery--Alconbury Hill--The plains of Cambridgeshire--The sil...

7. CHAPTER VII

Norman Cross--A Norman-French inscription--A re-headed statue--The friendliness of the road--The art of being delightful--The turnpike roads in their glory--Bits for the curious...

8. CHAPTER VIII

A picturesque ruin--Round about Stamford--Browne’s “Callis”--A chat with an antiquary--A quaint interior--“Bull-running”--A relic of a destroyed college--An old Carmelite gatewa...

9. CHAPTER IX

A land of dykes--Fenland rivers--Crowland Abbey--A unique triangular bridge--Antiquaries differ--A mysterious statue--A medieval rhyme--A wayside inscription--The scenery of the...

10. CHAPTER X

Spalding--“Ye Olde White Horse Inne”--An ancient hall and quaint garden--Epitaph-hunting--A signboard joke--Across the Fens--A strange world--Storm and sunshine--An awkward pred...

11. CHAPTER XI

12. CHAPTER XII

A civil tramp--Country hospitality--Sleaford--A Lincolnshire saying--A sixteenth-century vicarage--Struck by lightning--“The Queen of Villages”--A sculptured anachronism--Swines...

13. CHAPTER XIII

The Fenland capital--Mother and daughter towns--“Boston stump”--One church built over another--The company at our inn--A desultory ramble--An ancient prison--The Pilgrim Fathers...

14. CHAPTER XIV

15. CHAPTER XV

In a haunted house--A strange story--A ghost described!--An offer declined--Market-day in a market-town--A picturesque crowd--Tombs of ancient warriors--An old tradition--Popula...

16. CHAPTER XVI

17. CHAPTER XVII

A decayed fane--Birds in church--An old manorial hall--Curious creations of the carver’s brain--The grotesque _in excelsis_--The old formal garden--Sketching from memory--The be...

18. CHAPTER XVIII

A friend in a strange land--Horse sold in a church--A sport of the past--Racing the moon!--Facts for the curious--The Champions of England--Scrivelsby Court--Brush magic--Corona...

19. CHAPTER XIX

“A precious piece of architecture”--Guest at an inn--A pleasant city--Unexpected kindness--A medieval lavatory--An honest lawyer!--The cost of obliging a stranger--Branston--A l...

20. CHAPTER XX

A long discourse--The origin of a coat-of-arms--An English serf--A witch-stone--Lincolnshire folk-lore--A collar for lunatics--St. Mary’s thistle--A notable robbery--An architec...

21. CHAPTER XXI

22. CHAPTER XXII

23. CHAPTER I

Our tour was planned one chilly winter’s evening: just a chance letter originated the idea of exploring a portion of Lincolnshire during the coming summer. Our project in embryo...

24. CHAPTER II

Memorial of a great battle--An ancient fire-cresset--Free feasting!--Country quiet--Travellers’ tales--Hatfield--An Elizabethan architect--An author’s tomb--Day-dreaming--Myster...

25. CHAPTER III

On one of the grassy wastes by the roadside, a sheltered corner overhung by branching elms, we espied a gipsy encampment. A very effective and pretty picture the encampment made...

26. CHAPTER IV

Biggleswade--“Instituted” or “intruded”!--A poetical will--The river Ivel--A day to be remembered--The art of seeing--Misquotations--The striving after beauty--Stories in stone-...

27. CHAPTER V

The charm of small towns--The Ouse--A pleasant land--Buckden Palace--A joke in stone--The birthplace of Samuel Pepys--Buried treasure--Huntingdon--An old-time interior--A famous...

28. CHAPTER VI

Returning to our comfortable hostelry after our pleasant wanderings, we felt just sufficiently tired to enjoy the luxury of taking our ease therein, but “hungry as hunters” from...

29. CHAPTER VII

Norman Cross--A Norman-French inscription--A re-headed statue--The friendliness of the road--The art of being delightful--The turnpike roads in their glory--Bits for the curious...

30. CHAPTER VIII

A picturesque ruin--Round about Stamford--Browne’s “Callis”--A chat with an antiquary--A quaint interior--“Bull-running”--A relic of a destroyed college--An old Carmelite gatewa...

31. book I had, it seemed to me, concluded with a moral; till at last, I

remember, I used first to look at the end of any new work that was given to me, and if I found the expected moral there, I troubled it no further!

32. CHAPTER IX

So we drove on till the tall hedgerows ceased and the country became more open and assumed a wilder aspect: narrow dykes or ditches now divided the fields instead of the familia...

33. CHAPTER X

Spalding--“Ye Olde White Horse Inne”--An ancient hall and quaint garden--Epitaph-hunting--A signboard joke--Across the Fens--A strange world--Storm and sunshine--An awkward pred...

34. CHAPTER XI

From Bourn we decided to drive to Sleaford, an easy day’s stage of eighteen miles, baiting half-way at Falkingham. Upon asking the ostler about the road, it struck us as curious...

35. CHAPTER XII

A civil tramp--Country hospitality--Sleaford--A Lincolnshire saying--A sixteenth-century vicarage--Struck by lightning--“The Queen of Villages”--A sculptured anachronism--Swines...

36. CHAPTER XIII

The Fenland capital--Mother and daughter towns--“Boston stump”--One church built over another--The company at our inn--A desultory ramble--An ancient prison--The Pilgrim Fathers...

37. CHAPTER XIV

Leaving Wrangle, the country to our right became still more open; for the rest of our way we followed the changeful line of the sea-coast at a distance of about a mile or more i...

38. CHAPTER XV

In a haunted house--A strange story--A ghost described!--An offer declined--Market-day in a market-town--A picturesque crowd--Tombs of ancient warriors--An old tradition--Popula...

39. CHAPTER XVI

The next morning after breakfast we consulted our map as to the day’s doings and wanderings. We found that we were only some six miles or so away from Somersby, Tennyson’s birth...

40. CHAPTER XVII

A decayed fane--Birds in church--An old manorial hall--Curious creations of the carver’s brain--The grotesque _in excelsis_--The old formal garden--Sketching from memory--The be...

41. did. Now our self-appointed guide led us to one of the side aisles, and

began to lift the matting up from the pavement, in search of a tombstone he wished to show us, but for some inexplicable reason he could not readily find it. “It can’t surely ha...

42. CHAPTER XVIII

A friend in a strange land--Horse sold in a church--A sport of the past--Racing the moon!--Facts for the curious--The Champions of England--Scrivelsby Court--Brush magic--Corona...

43. CHAPTER XIX

“A precious piece of architecture”--Guests at an inn--A pleasant city--Unexpected kindness--A medieval lavatory--An honest lawyer!--The cost of obliging a stranger--Branston--A...

44. CHAPTER XX

From Poolham Hall we drove on through a lovely country, remote from railways, and pervaded by a peaceful, mellow, homelike look; bound for the out-of-the-world hamlet of Wisping...

45. CHAPTER XXI

From “Beckingham-behind-the-Times” we drove on to the old historic town of Grantham, a town that still retains much of its ancient picturesqueness though it is certainly not slo...

46. CHAPTER XXII

Leaving Kirby we soon reached the very pretty village of Deene, on passing through which we noticed a picturesque creeper-covered little hostel with the sign of “The Sea-horse,”...