Part 1

Our Girls by Dio Lewis, A.M., M.D., President of "The Normal Institute for Physical Education," Physician in Chief to "a Swedish Movement Cure," Author of "New Gymnastics for Men, Women, and Children," "Weak Lungs, and How to Make Them Strong," "Talks About People's Stomachs," etc.

That her hand may be given with dignity, she must be able to stand alone.-Margaret Fuller New York Harper & Brothers, Publishers, Franklin Square, 1874. Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1871, by Dio Lewis. In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

To My Girls I dedicate this volume In the School at Lexington they taught me how pure and noble life may become.

Will they listen to another of my "Talks about Health?" The Author.

Contents

INTRODUCTION GIRLS' BOOTS AND SHOES Sure Way to get Broad Soles. Beauty of Broad Soles. Economy of Wide Soles. Thickness of the Soles. Of what shall the Uppers of Girls' Boots be composed? Should the Shoes support the Ankle? Rubber Boots and Shoes. HOW GIRLS SHOULD WALK Another Woman who Walked well. Still another Woman who Walked well. Important Help in Learning to Walk. THE LANGUAGE OF DRESS Low Neck and Short Sleeves DESCRIPTION OF DRESS Letter from Washington. Excessive Ornamentation. Earrings and other Trinkets. Finger-rings, etc. OUTRAGES UPON THE BODY Fashionable Sufferings. WOMAN TORTURES HER BODY STOCKINGS SUPPORTERS LARGE vs. SMALL WOMEN Why are Women so Small? IDLENESS AMONG GIRLS A Family Counsel. How it Terminated. IDLENESS IS FASHIONABLE WORK IS FOR THE POOR Work for Rich Girls. A true Love Story. EMPLOYMENTS FOR WOMEN Amanuenses. Bank Clerks. Brokers. Copyists. Dentists. Lawyers. Lecturers. Librarians. Physicians. Preachers. Proof-Readers. Publishers. Teachers. Teachers of Gymnastics and Dancing. Teachers of Drawing and Painting. Watches. Pens. Aquaria Makers. Architects. Engravers. Photographers. Schools of Design. Gardening. A Capital Investment. Merchants. Carpenters. Other Occupations. Employment Agencies. FALSE TESTS OF GENTILITY Conservatism is Fashionable. "Woman's Rights" are Unfashionable. The Social Evil. A SHORT SERMON ABOUT MATRIMONY My Text. You Want Husbands. Why Men do not Propose. Beauty of Woman's Body. This Dress Checks your Movements. PIANO MUSIC Vocal Music. Bad Manners of Piano Players. Vices of Modern Music. Italian Opera. STUDY OF FRENCH Disciplinary Value of French. Comparative Value of English and French. English Classics. Latin and Greek. DANCING THE THEATRE SYMPATHY BETWEEN THE STOMACH AND THE SOUL Bowels of Compassion. Waists of Jolly Grandmothers. ABOUT THE TREATMENT OF DISEASES SUNSHINE AND HEALTH A few Plain Words to my Little Pale-faced Friends. Experiment upon a House-plant. Experiment upon a Rose-bush. Experiment upon a Rose Girl. A WORD ABOUT BATHS Oil Secretions of the Skin. Importance of Soap. Details of the Bath. Bath-rooms. Hot and Cold Baths. Hair Gloves or Mittens. HOME GYMNASIUM WHAT YOU SHOULD EAT Consequences. Breakfast. Dinner. Jacob Schneider and his Doughnuts. Wines and other Alcoholic Drinks WHAT YOU SHOULD DRINK ADDITIONAL HEALTH THOUGHTS Noises in the Bowels. How to Manage a Cold. Fat and Thin Girls. Recreation vs. Propriety. Care of your Teeth. Ventilation. Flannels next the Skin. AMUSEMENTS FOR GIRLS TRUE EDUCATION FOR GIRLS HEROIC WOMEN

Introduction

My Dear Public:--

I write about the girls because I want to, and because, after a good deal of self-examination, I candidly believe I have something to say about them.

I have always been deeply interested in the girls; when a youngster nothing so fascinated me; and, as I turn the corner, to go with the old folks, I can't see that my interest in girls is a whit less earnest.

When I was occupied with the practice of my profession, my interest in the girls was so well-known, that I had an unusual number among my patients. During the years of my public lecturing, half, at least, of my audiences were composed exclusively of girls and women. When I established the school at Lexington, it was a school for girls, and, during four years, I lived in the midst of a large family of fine girls. It was a sweet, a delightful experience. My hopes of the future rest upon the girls. My patriotism clings to the girls. I believe America's future pivots on this great woman revolution.

I am not a Yankee, but I believe in Yankees. This first great success in self-government, is a success, because guided by Yankee brains. I tremble lest the rudder should fall to hands, which, in other lands, have been found utterly incompetent. The Yankee brain has realized the brightest hopes of the political seer. The United States Government must not, cannot part with its wise, prudent helmsman.

Is it not an alarming fact, that, among Yankees, marriage is becoming unfashionable, and children still more unfashionable; that, among the very few children born, so many die in infancy; and still again, that, among the very small number who escape the perils of childhood, so small a proportion are endowed with that vigorous health on which alone can be planted a vigorous manhood. I am so sure that I know where the trouble lies, and so strong is my confidence that I can contribute something toward its removal, I cannot refrain from speaking. May the Good Father help me to write in a truly father-spirit to those dear, beautiful girls, upon whom we are all so dependent for present happiness, and upon whom the future America must rest.

And if any thought shall appear in this volume worthy their attention, may they listen, think, act.

I have discussed many health topics, but this work, addressed to the girls of America, I shall fill with my whole heart, and send out, with a yearning for its success, which I have felt in connection with no other literary venture.

GIRLS' BOOTS AND SHOES.

One evening, at Lexington, I was discussing before the assembled school the subject of shoes for women, and had been remarking that the soles were uniformly too narrow, when Miss B. spoke up:--

"Why, Doctor, my soles are perfectly immense. Why, they are twice as broad as my foot."

"Miss B., will you be kind enough to take off one of your shoes, and send it forward?" It was cheerfully and quickly done.

"Henry, please bring the rule? Now we will measure this sole.

"Miss B., I find this sole is two and one-half inches wide; do you think your foot is narrower than that?"

"Oh! a great deal. That shoe sole is twice as wide as my foot."

"Miss B., will you please come to the platform a moment?" So, limping along, one shoe off and one shoe on, she presented herself.

"Miss B., will you be kind enough to put your foot upon that sheet of white paper? Now hold up the other foot, and let your full weight press upon this one. There, now, hold still a minute, and let me draw the pencil around your foot. There, that will do. Now we will measure this mark, and see just how broad your foot is. Why, Miss B., I find that your foot is three inches and three-quarters broad; --no, stop, it is three inches and seven-eighths;--no, stop again, it really is four inches broad. Now what do you think? You may take the rule and measure yourself if you doubt it. The sole is two inches and a half, and your foot is four inches broad!"

"But, Doctor, it is four inches broad only when it is spread out by standing my whole weight on this one foot."

"Yes, Miss B., but that is exactly what takes place every time you step. For example, when, in walking, you lift up the right foot and push it forward, your whole weight is not only on the left foot, but, pushing with the left foot in propelling the body forward, you have, in addition to your weight upon that foot, the effort of pushing forward with it, which makes the toes still broader, and that takes place every time you step. So I presume when you are walking briskly, that if your foot were at liberty to spread, it would reach four inches and a quarter.

"This shoe sole, which you think is immense, is two inches and a half wide. Now what do you suppose becomes of the inch and a half of foot which has no sole to rest upon? Either the upper leather holds the foot, and prevents its spreading, or the foot spreads on either side beyond the sole, and presses down upon the edge of the sole.

"Very few girls walk in a firm, strong way. Notice one. You can see that she is balancing upon a narrow sole. There is an unsteadiness, a sidewise vibration. Besides, as she has not breadth of toe enough, she cannot push her body forward in that elastic way which we all so much admire.

"Again, the pressure of the upper leather checks the circulation in the foot and makes it cold. If you check the circulation in any part, it becomes cold. The tight shoes, with an elastic worn about the leg just below the knee, so check the circulation in the foot, that the great majority of girls have cold feet. It would, indeed, be rare to find one with warm feet like a boy."

Miss B. took her shoe and limped back to her seat quite crest- fallen. Now a dozen girls eagerly put up their hands.

Selecting one, Miss R., I said, "What do you wish?"

"My shoe is broader than my foot."

"Well, send it forward and let me measure it."

I found it two and a half inches, or, perhaps, a shade less.

"Come, stand on the paper and let me measure your foot."

I found it fully three and three quarter inches; one inch and a quarter of foot with nothing to rest upon.

Six or eight other girls insisted on having their shoes and feet measured, but among them all we did not find one that had less than an inch and a quarter of foot not matched by the sole.

Miss S., a quiet, earnest girl, who was always on the _qui vive_ for the _ought_ of life, rose and said:--

"I have always thought that shoes should have broad soles, and I have tried for years to induce my shoemaker to give me broad soles. He always says he will, but he never does. How can a young lady get broad soles if the shoemaker won't make them? I am sure I should be glad to have mine as broad as the widest spread of my foot, but I cannot get them."

SURE WAY TO GET BROAD SOLES.

"Miss S., if I will tell you how to induce your shoemaker to make the soles of your shoes as broad as your feet, will you try it?"

"I will, and should be very thankful for the suggestion."

"Go to him and say, 'Mr. Smith, please let me put my foot on a sheet of paper, resting my whole weight upon one foot, and then, if you please, mark around it with your pencil.'

"Of course he will do it very cheerfully. Indeed, for some purpose, which I am sure no man can explain, shoemakers are quite in the habit of taking the size and shape of the foot. I am sure I never saw any evidence that they paid the slightest attention to it in making the shoes.

"Then say to Mr. Smith, 'Please measure that and tell me just how wide it is.'

"Mr. Smith measures. You look on. He finds that the width is exactly three inches and seven-eighths.

"'But,' he will say, 'Miss S., what is all this for?'

"'No matter. Now, Mr. Smith, will you please to make the soles of this pair as broad as my feet?'

"'Certainly, Miss S., I will make them all nice and broad.'

"'Mr. Smith, please make the soles as broad as my feet this time.'

"'Why, certainly, Miss, what is the trouble? I will give them to you real nice and wide.'

"'You always tell me so; but when they come home, they are always those little narrow ones.'

"'Miss S., you shouldn't say so. I always make the soles of my shoes very broad. It will be all right.. You needn't worry about that.'

"'Well, Mr. Smith, you need not send these shoes to me; I will come for them. The width of my foot is three inches and seven-eighths. Very well; when I come for these shoes, I shall measure the width of the soles; if they are one-eighth of an inch less than three inches and seven-eighths, I will not touch them.'

"That struggle is all over. Mr. Smith will, for the first time in his life, keep his broad-sole promise."

BEAUTY OF BROAD SOLES.

'Besides the advantages I have named, broad soles are much handsomer than narrow ones. They make the foot look smaller. If one puts his foot into a shoe too short, and too narrow, and the toes and sides of the foot press out all around over the sole, it makes the foot look big; but if the sole be large enough to let the foot rest in its natural relations, it looks much smaller. We men wear boots, often, with broad soles that project well on both sides. Such boots are thought to be particularly stylish.

ECONOMY OF WIDE SOLES.

"Another advantage may be mentioned for the benefit of those who study economy. Such shoes will not only keep in shape, but they will last two or three times as long as those with narrow soles. The uppers, not being stretched, as they are with narrow soles, will, if of good stock, almost never wear out, while the soles will remain square and even.

"I have spoken of the advantage of a greatly improved circulation, which would result from the introduction of the wide soles. I may add that the change which would at once appear in the manner of walking, would strike every beholder.

THICKNESS OF THE SOLES.

"The soles of girls' boots and shoes should be thick. They are not always to remain upon carpets, but they must go out doors and walk on the ground.

"Some people seem, somehow, to suppose that girls do not really step on the ground, but that, in some sort of spiritual way, they pass along just above the damp, unclean earth. But, as a matter of fact, girls do step on the ground just like boys. I have frequently walked behind them to test this point, and have noticed that when the ground is soft, they make tracks, and thus demonstrate the existence of an actual, material body.

"Now, while this is the case, and while it is indispensable to their health that they go much in the open air, they must have thick soles. Let these be made of the hardest and most impervious leather. It is well, in addition, during eight months of the year, to have the bottoms of the soles covered either with a sheet of rubber, or simply covered with a spreading of some of the liquid rubber, which will remain two or three weeks, and protect the sole from dampness.

OF WHAT SHALL THE UPPERS OF GIRLS' BOOTS BE COMPOSED?

"During the cold and damp months they should be made of thick, solid leather. No matter about the name; some calfskin is very thin, while morocco is often very thick. During the warm season they may wear for uppers prunella, or other cloth."

This much was spoken to my girls. I might leave the shape and width of the heel to the intelligence of the reader; but as the most preposterous heels have been recently introduced, it is perhaps judicious to point out the physiological mischief. The heels of the fashionable ladies' shoes at the present moment--quarter past three, P.M., August 4th, 1870,--are two inches high, and at the bottom not larger than an old-fashioned silver quarter of a dollar, if anybody can remember how large that was.

Need it be argued that this absurd fashion weakens the ankle, and jams the toes into the sharp points of the boots?

If a woman were to walk as much as her health requires, with those most unphysiological heels, her feet would soon be crippled. The ankle, the heel, the arch of the foot and the toes must all suffer. It need hardly be said that heels should be broad, long and low. The great advantage in elasticity and firmness which would come at once in the manner of walking, would, even as to stylishness, more than compensate for the absence of the fashionable Shanghai heels.

SHOULD THE SHOE SUPPORT THE ANKLE?

Shoes of a peculiar structure have been employed to support the ankle. Medical men have even advised the introduction of brass, or other metallic straps, to be laced in the shoe about the ankle, to give support in walking. The ordinary shoe is made so as to fit the ankle very closely, under the impression that thereby the ankle is supported. This is an error. If the ankles were to be used but a day or a week, such support might serve; but as no one intends to rely permanently upon such artificial support, and as any pressure checks the circulation and the development of the parts, so a lacing to the ankle, as a lacing about the chest, may feel comfortable and give a sense of support for the time being, but, in either case, will, in the long run, only produce absorption and weakness. The ankle joint should be left entirely without ligature, without any pressure, and by exercise be developed into a self-supporting institution.

If this were the place, I would give special directions for bathing the ankle joints in cold water, morning and evening, and rubbing them hard with the naked hands, if they are weak and need special support.

RUBBER BOOTS AND SHOES.

On the subject of rubber boots and shoes much has been said, and well said. There can be no doubt that india-rubber boots are mischievous; but I have at length reached the conclusion that the injury is less than the constant in-door life among girls and women which would result from an abandonment of the rubber protections. The prejudice against such leather boots as would, alone, prove adequate to our climate, is so determined, that I think it my duty, in discussing the subject of shoes for girls, to advise that, in this climate, every girl should have a pair of india-rubber over- shoes, of the arctic or sandal pattern, and a pair of large-sized, long-legged rubber boots for the roughest weather.

They should never be worn except when the streets are in a condition absolutely requiring them, and should not be kept on, in the house. If these rules be carefully observed, and, during the season of the year when rubbers are worn, the feet are frequently washed in cold water, and rubbed hard with rough towels, hair gloves and the naked hand, they may be protected against the injurious influence of the rubber boots and shoes.

HOW GIRLS SHOULD WALK.

A good many years ago,--let me look in the glass again,--never use hair dye,--yes, a great many years ago, I was studying my profession in a medical office with several other students. Just below stood a book-bindery, and a little above, the residence of a poor widow. A girl of twenty years passed backward and forward, from one to the other, several times a day. Very rarely did she pass our office without one or more of us observing her. Very natural, you say. But you don't understand me. She was not a handsome girl. Her dress was of the plainest calico, and, I suppose on account of her occupation, it was not always clean. But, nevertheless, she was one of our staple attractions.

Our office was on the main street, and above us were the residences of the rich. Hundreds of girls with handsome faces and rich dresses passed every day, but we were not on the lookout for them. It was only the book-binding girl that drew us to the window.

One of our fellows would cry out, "Here she goes. Come quick, John; quick, Henry."

Curious, wasn't it?

And what do you suppose so excited our interest?

She walked well! Ah! I can see her now! What a queen!

Queenly, we exclaim, with reference to a certain manner of walking. We never say queenly mouth, or queenly eyes, or queenly nose. The word is applied only to a certain style of personal carriage. When we see a woman pass, carrying her head and shoulders in a peculiar way, stepping off in a grand, elastic style, the word queenly leaps to every lip.

Our book-binding girl was a Methodist; and I do not mind telling you that I used to go to the Methodist church pretty often, and always sat in the gallery, that I might see her come in and go out. She frequented a little social organization, in which young men and women assembled for conversation, reading, singing, etc. I joined, although there was no other attraction than our queen.

You may think it very strange, but I was never introduced to her; I never spoke with her. Indeed, I carefully avoided a personal acquaintance, lest a lack of intelligence and sentiment might break the charm of her peerless bearing. I think that nothing in any woman has ever more deeply impressed my imagination than that young woman's splendid mien.

ANOTHER WOMAN WHO WALKED WELL.

Calling upon a legal friend in a western city about twenty years ago, he asked me, while we were sitting at his front window,--

"Have you ever seen Mrs. W----e?"

"No. Who is she? what is she?"

"She is a remarkable woman."

"Actress?"

"No."

"Singer?"

"No."

"Authoress?"

"No."

"Well, do tell me what she is remarkable for."

"Oh, she walks well."

"And is it so rare for a woman to walk well, in your city, that one who does, becomes famous?"

"Ah, but when you see her walk, you won't ask that question. She walks splendidly; and what is very wonderful, she knows it; and, knowing it, what is perhaps still more wonderful, she walks a great deal. She generally goes down town about this time. If we keep watch, we shall see her."

In a few minutes he exclaimed, "There she goes, there she goes!"

"Indeed, and that is your wonderful Mrs. W----e? She don't handsome much. Eyes sunken, complexion dark, nose--well, her nose is preposterous, mouth coarse,--but, she does, yes, she does walk splendidly." I pushed out my head and watched her as she went down the street.

STILL ANOTHER WOMAN WHO WALKED WELL.

We arrived at the Morley House about two o'clock in the afternoon. It was my first visit to London. While in the dining-room, I made one of those table acquaintances so common among travellers.

He asked:--

"Shall you visit one of the theatres this evening?"

"I hadn't thought of it; what is there worth seeing?"

"Have you ever seen Mrs. Charles Kean, Ellen Tree that was?"

"No."

"Well, you'd better go and see her. She is the finest walker I ever saw."

"Glad you mentioned it. I shall certainly go."

It was one of Shakspeare's plays. When Mrs. Kean came in, she walked across the stage two or three times before uttering a word. I never saw anything so perfectly grand! The play had then run a hundred and fifty nights. I afterward met several persons who had witnessed it more than twenty nights, and most of them mentioned Mrs. Kean's walking, as the great attraction.

Girls, the Creator has not made you all handsome. He has not given you all fine faces, or noble proportions; but He has given every one of you the capacity to learn to walk well.

Why, even a little woman, weighing but a hundred pounds, can make herself grand by a certain style of walking.

How any of you who desire to appear well, to make a fine impression, can consent to crawl about, poking your chins out, shoulder-blades sticking out, and wiggling yourself along in that stubby, stumbling way, amazes me.

Why, girls, if you were to give one-twentieth part as much time to learning to walk, as you give to the piano, you would add immensely to your attractions. Everybody plays the piano. It really is refreshing to meet one who says, "I have never learned to play." Why not a few of you, instead of sitting four hours a day on piano stools, weakening and distorting your spines; why not just a few of you, by way of variety, cultivate this beautiful, elastic, queenly manner of walking? You have no idea how, to use a Yankee phrase, "it would pay," as an attraction.

RULES FOR FINE WALKING.

There are certain prerequisites.

First, you must have low, wide heels, and broad soles, especially about the toes, affording a secure surface, upon which, in taking each step, you can push the body forward.