Part 7
There are at least four of these edible Russulæ that we are certain of meeting in our walks in the woods: The green Russula (_R. virescens_), with its mottled cap of mouldy or sage green; the various-gilled Russula (_R. heterophylla_), varying in the lengths of its gill plates; the purple Russula (_R. lepida_), whose cap varies from bright red to dull purple; and the red Russula (_R. alutacea_), which presents a variety of shades of red, from bright to dull. Having once identified the Russula as a group, or the common characteristics of the genus, we may take our pick from all of these delicious species for the table; but we must avoid one other member of the genus, also quite common, and which frequently masquerades in the guise of some of the bright red varieties above mentioned. This is the _R. emetica_, whose obnoxious qualities are indicated by its classical surname, and which will be separately considered.
THE GREEN RUSSULA
_Agaricus (Russula) virescens_
[Sidenote: =Specific characters=]
Our first species, the green Russula, is to be found throughout the summer in hard-wood groves, and is apt to frequent the same immediate locality from year to year. I know one such veritable mushroom bed in the woods near by, where I am almost certain of my mess of Russulæ almost any day in their season. This species is shown in its various stages of development and also in section in Plate 11. Its substance is _firm_ and solid _creamy white_. The pileus, at first almost hemispherical, as it pushes its way through the earth, at length becomes convex, with a slight hollow at the centre, and later ascends in a gentle slope from centre to rim. Its color is sage green, or mouldy green, usually quite unbroken in tint at centre, but more or less disconnected into spots as it approaches the circumference by the gradual expansion of the cap, the creamy undertint appearing like network between the separated patches of color. The substance of the cap becomes gradually thinned towards the circumference, where the mere cuticle connects the gills, the position of these gills being observable from above in a faint fluting of the edge, a peculiarity of all the Russulæ. The cuticle peels readily some distance from the edge, leaving the projecting tips of the gills exposed in a row of comb-like teeth, but usually adheres towards the centre of cap. The gills, with rare exceptions, are _all of the same length_, white or creamy in color, firm and thick, but _very brittle_, easily broken into fragments by a rude touch, a characteristic of all the group; spores, white. The stem is short, stout, and solid, and usually tapers towards the base. There is no vestige of a cup or veil at _any_ stage of growth.
A fine specimen of the green Russula should measure five inches in diameter when fully open, but three inches is probably the average size.
[Sidenote: =The noxious Russulæ=]
When once acquainted with the above as a _type_ of the Russula group, noting the firm substance, straight, equal gills, and their brittle texture; the sweet, nutty flavor common to all the edible species, these become readily identified, the _noxious_ Russulæ, as in the brilliant pink or scarlet _R. emetica_ (Plate 13), being _acrid_ and _peppery_ to the taste.
[Sidenote: =Green Russula often sufficient=]
In an auspicious season and in a congenial habitat--usually an open wood with scant undergrowth and preferably raked clean of dead leaves--the green Russula is often abundant. Familiarity even with this one species will often afford a sufficiency of fungus food during its season. A lady amateur mycophagist of the writer's acquaintance, whose home is located at the border of such a wood as is above described, and who is especially fond of the green Russula, is never at a loss for this especially prized tidbit as a reward for her daily stroll among the trees. A visitor may often see upon her buffet a small glass dish filled with the mushrooms, nicely scraped and cut in pieces--an ever-present relish between meals. For even in their natural state, as she discriminatingly says, they are "as sweet as chestnuts." This is especially the case with the "buttons" or younger specimens.
_PLATE XI_
THE GREEN RUSSULA
=Russula virescens=
=Pileus:= Very firm; solid, dull, dry-surfaced, as with a fine "flock"; mouldy green or creamy, with sage-greenish broken spots more united at centre; occasionally entirely green, with warty patches of darker hue. At first globular, then convex with flat top, at length expanded and hollowed towards centre.
=Gills:= Pale, creamy white; commonly all of equal length, but frequently unequal and forked; very brittle, breaking in pieces at a rude touch.
=Stem:= Solid; creamy white; no veil.
=Taste:= Very mild, sweet, and nut-like.
=Habitat:= In woods--July-September.
Diameter of pileus, ideal specimen, four inches.
PLATE XI
PURPLE RUSSULA
_Russula lepida_
[Sidenote: =Color of cap misleading=]
[Sidenote: =Specific characters=]
This, perhaps the most common species, is figured in Plate 12, fig. 3. It corresponds with the foregoing in size as well as in general shape, firm texture, and friable nature of the gills. The pileus of this species frequently assumes eccentric shapes, or is often cracked, as seen in the accompanying cut. Its name of "purple" is probably local in its application, as it is known also as the _red_ Russula, neither of which titles is at all distinctive. Indeed, the color of the _cap_ is often a misleading character for identification, as a given species may vary greatly in this particular. This feature is thus generally omitted in purely scientific descriptions, more dependence being placed upon the tint of the flesh and that of the spore surface, the laminæ or gills, which are more permanent and reliable as a character. Thus, in the present species, _R. lepida_, the tint of the pileus or cap is often of a deep dull purplish red or ruddy wine color. Another authority describes it as violet-red and cherry-red or slightly tawny, paler at circumference. Berkeley, in his _British Fungi_, omits any reference to the color of the cap, as evidently of little value in identification. But from numerous examples gathered by the present writer, the color may, I think, be safely averaged under the general hue of dark, subdued red inclining to maroon. The surface is dull, as with a fine dust or plum-like bloom, and thus without polish. Occasional specimens appear almost velvety in the sheen of surface. But the tints of the flesh and the gills are always uniform, the _leaflets_ or gills being _pure white_ or very slightly creamy, continuous from stem to rim or occasionally forked, not crowded, curved in outline in open specimen, with broadest width near the circumference of cap. The flesh is white or slightly creamy, firm and compact as in the former species, with the same variations of outline from early stage to maturity. The stem is white, solid, and generally more or less tinted or streaked vertically with rose or pale crimson (Fig. 8). The taste of the flesh is sweet and appetizing.
_PLATE XII_
EDIBLE RUSSULÆ
1. =Russula heterophylla--Variable Russula=
=Pileus:= Firm, solid; greenish or pinkish-gray; at first convex, with flat top, ultimately rising from centre to rim.
=Gills:= Milk-white; extremely brittle, like all the Russulæ, and easily crumbled (see Fig. 7); long, short, and forked intermixed. Fig. 5.
=Stem:= Milk-white; solid.
=Taste:= Mild and sweet.
2. =Russula alutacea--Yellow-gilled Russula=
=Pileus:= Firm, solid; shape as in above; color very variable, from bright to deep red; cuticle thin at rim, where the lines of junction of gills are readily discernible from above by the depressed channels. Fig. 6.
=Gills:= Equal, brittle, broad; yellow-buff color in all stages. Fig. 4.
=Stem:= Solid; milk-white, commonly stained or streaked with red towards the base.
=Taste:= Sweet and nut-like.
3. =Russula lepida--Purple Russula=
=Pileus:= In shape like above, varying in color from bright red to dull, subdued purplish, with a distinct bloom.
=Gills:= White, broad, principally even, occasionally forked as in Fig. 1; like the above, extremely brittle. Fig. 7.
=Stem:= Solid; white, usually stained and streaked with pink. Fig. 8.
=Taste:= Sweet, and similar to above.
Average diameter of extended pileus of each of these species about three and one-half inches; veil absent in each.
=Habitat:= All grow in woods--July-September.
PLATE XII
YELLOW-GILLED RUSSULA
_Russula alutacea_
[Sidenote: =Botanical characters=]
Our third example of the Russula is one which is also quite common in our woods, and which might in the extreme variation of its color be confounded with the last by a careless observer, as indeed both might be still further confounded with the poisonous member bearing the red tint, and which will be hereafter considered. The _Russula alutacea_ (Pl. 12, figs. 2, 4, 6) is a delicious species. In general size and contour it resembles the foregoing. The color of the cap varies from bright-red to blood-red or even approaching the purplish red of the preceding species, lightening towards edge. But we have a clear distinction in the color of the _gills_, which are _distinctly yellowish_, pale ochre, or nankeen, in all stages of the mushroom, _or even tawny_ in old specimens. They are, moreover, usually _all of even length_, being straight and continuous from stem to circumference of pileus, none of them forked, their juncture with the edge of the cap being clearly manifest from above by the thinness of the cuticle. The flesh is white, stem firm and solid, white and smooth, often tinted with pink or red. The flesh of the cap often appears pinkish upon peeling the cuticle from the edge. The taste resembles that of the previous species--sweet and nutty.
VARIOUS-GILLED RUSSULA
_Russula heterophylla_
[Sidenote: =Botanical characters=]
Growing in company with both of the above is frequently to be seen another species, which is somewhat protean in its accomplishments of color, but which in the character of its gills, as implied in its scientific name, gives us a ready means of identification--_heterophylla_--various-leaved (Pl. 12, figs. 1 and 5). In the previous examples of Russulæ the gills have been commonly straight, continuous from stem to edge of cap, or more rarely forked and continuous in the bifurcation. In the present species we have both of these conditions, combined also with what are called _dimidiate_ gills, or _shorter_ leaflets, which reach, perhaps, only half-way from rim to stem, all crowded together and alternating. The color of the cap is very variable--occasionally pinkish-ash color or dull pinkish-gray inclining to green or olive or even red. Its surface is smoother than in the foregoing species, being almost polished, and the pellicle of the cap is usually noticeably thinner. Having found such a specimen, possessing also all the other attributes of shape, firmness of flesh, and dry brittleness of gills, if tasted and found sweet in flavor it may be eaten without the slightest fear, and like its congeners will be found a delicious morsel, whether nibbled raw, as the squirrels are so fond of doing, or served hot on toast as an entrée, or otherwise prepared according to taste.
[Sidenote: =Delicious broiled Russula=]
Various methods prevail in the culinary preparation of the Russula mushroom, many of which are suggested among the receipts in another chapter, but broiling is perhaps the most simple and generally satisfactory. Having thoroughly cleaned the top, or, if desired, peeled the cuticle, place the mushrooms on a gridiron over a hot fire, gills downward, for a few moments, sufficient to allow them to be heated through without scorching. Then reverse them and repeat the process, melting a small piece of butter in the gills and salting and peppering to taste; serve hot on toast or in the platter with roast beef or fowl. They are also delicious fried in the ordinary way, either with or without batter.
The Russula is particularly in favor among the fungus-eating insects, whose rapid development and voracity are consistently related to the ephemeral nature of their food. A Russula specimen showing barely a trace of insect life when gathered will sometimes prove literally honey-combed and totally unfit for food in the space of twenty-four hours. It is therefore well to cut each specimen in sections before venturing upon its preparation for the table, and to profit thereby according to our individual fastidiousness, as suggested on page 37.
While the above esculent species of Russulæ are being familiarized by the tyro, he must now be put on guard against a certain dangerous species of the group, which is sure to claim his attention, being especially fond of the good company of its cousins, and likely to do some mischief through its frequent disguise.
POISONOUS OR EMETIC MUSHROOM
_Russula emetica_
[Sidenote: =The poisonous Russula=]
[Sidenote: =A warning tang=]
The variability in the coloring of the three edible species already described brings them occasionally into such close similarity with the gamut of color of the one common poisonous species of the group that this enemy must also be familiarized ere we venture too confidently upon our Russula diet. The _Russula emetica_ (Plate 13), as its name implies, is at war with luxurious gastronomy, but its distinction from the harmless varieties is, after all, quite simple. Its frequent general similarity to _R. lepida_ and _R. alutacea_ is such that the amateur should hardly rely upon the botanical characters alone. There is but one safe, as it is a simple, rule for him: _He should taste every specimen of his Russula of whatever kind before venturing upon its use as food_. All of the sweet and palatable Russulæ are esculent. When he chances upon the _R. emetica_ he will be aware of its important demoralizing resources in the peppery-hot tingle of his tongue, which, if not instantly perceived, will within the space of a minute assert itself distinctly. All such acrid specimens should be excluded, as a single one would be sufficient to bring an ignominious denouement to an otherwise delectable feast. In the typical _R. emetica_ the pileus is a bright, brilliant red--which, as we have said, is very variable, as indicated in our plate--often polished and shining; the gills broad, _equal, straight, continuous, not crowded_, and _white_, as is the flesh beneath the peeled cuticle. The stem is white or pink. The cap will average, perhaps, three inches in diameter, though occasionally reaching the dimensions indicated by the marks in plate, or even larger.
_PLATE XIII_
POISONOUS OR EMETIC MUSHROOM
=Russula emetica=
=Pileus:= Expansion two to four inches; color varying from pale bright pink to deep scarlet; very smooth.
=Gills:= Broad (in section), mostly equal in length, and continuous from edge of cap to stem; not crowded; white.
=Stem:= White or pinkish.
=Spores:= White, like all Russulæ.
=Taste:= Hot and peppery.
=Habitat:= Woods, with other Russulæ.
=Season:= July-September.
NOTE.--While, for conservative reasons, the poisonous reputation of this species is here perpetuated, it is quite probable that such condemnation is unwarranted, except as to the _raw_ mushroom. The peppery tang and demoralizing powers are now claimed to be dissipated in cooking, and the _Emetica_ will doubtless soon be more generally included with its congeners among the esculents, thus bringing the entire genus _Russula_ into the friendly group.
Captain Charles McIlvaine is largely responsible for this conversion in favor of _Emetica_. His individual experiments warrant him in pronouncing this species "as good as the rest" when cooked. Others of the writer's acquaintance, following his example, echo his opinion.
PLATE XIII
THE OYSTER MUSHROOM
_Agaricus ostreatus_
What a mass of nutritious food do we occasionally pass in innocence or spurn with our foot upon the old stump or fallen log in the woods!--a neglected feast, indeed, if the specialists on edible fungi are to be believed; a feast, in truth, for a big family, if we chance upon even an average cluster of the "vegetable oyster," which is pictured in Plate 14.
[Sidenote: =A "vegetable oyster"=]
I have commonly observed this species, the _Agaricus ostreatus_, in the autumn, and this is the season given for its appearance in Europe by the authorities; but according to certain American specialists, notably Charles McIlvaine, it is common in our woods in spring, even as early as March, and through the summer. It is usually found in large clusters, similar to our illustration, growing upon decaying stumps and the trunks of various trees. The "oyster" is a gilled mushroom which grows _sidewise_ from its position, the stem being usually lateral and very short, though occasionally quite prolonged, the two varieties being indicated in the accompanying cut.
The individual mushroom may be five or six inches in breadth, a cluster affording several pounds in weight. The color of the upper surface is light brown or buff, varying to yellowish-ashen, according to age, and the gills are dirty white of various lengths; spores white.
_PLATE XIV_
THE OYSTER MUSHROOM
=Agaricus ostreatus=
=Pileus:= Four to six inches in diameter; smooth. Color, dull, light yellowish, sometimes pale ochre or grayish.
=Gills:= Dingy white; of various lengths, extending down the stem.
=Stem:= Short or obsolete; on the side of pileus.
=Spores:= White.
=Taste:= Agreeable; suggesting the flavor of the cooked oyster; texture tough in older specimens.
=Odor:= Pleasant.
=Habitat:= On old tree trunks and fallen logs, occasionally in dense masses.
PLATE XIV
This species and the one following belong to the subdivision of the typical genus Agaricus, called Leucospori--white spored. The division has many sub-genera. The particular sub-genus in which these are included is the Pleurotus, or _side-foot_ mushrooms, as they are sometimes called.
Another earlier species with which _A. ostreatus_ might be confounded (_A. euosmus_) has spores of a rosy pinkish or lilac hue, a sufficient identification, and is accounted injurious.
The clustering growth of the "Oyster Mushroom" frequently attains huge proportions, as will be seen from the above reproduction of a photograph sent to me by a correspondent. The dimensions of the mass are easily judged by the height of the gun leaning against the tree, and introduced for comparison.
[Sidenote: =Broiled oyster recipe=]
This "Oyster Mushroom" should be gathered in its young state, and may be served in various ways. Broiling over the coals, gills upward, seasoning with butter, pepper, and salt during the cooking, is a favorite method with most of the Agarics, but a well-known fungus epicure claims that this mushroom "may be cooked in any way that an oyster is, and will be found fine eating."
The average specimen will probably prove more ashen in hue than those represented in my plate.
THE ELM MUSHROOM
_Agaricus ulmarius_
[Sidenote: =Appetizing qualities=]
This edible species of mushroom, allied to the foregoing, and which grows in similar clusters on the elm-tree, is the _Agaricus ulmarius_ (Plate 15). While much difference of opinion prevails regarding the appetizing qualities of this mushroom or its right to a place among the esculents, this varying individual judgment has doubtless often had direct reference to the character of the particular specimen chosen for trial. Dr. M. C. Cooke is not disposed to place a high appreciation upon its qualities. "It has been customary," he says, "to regard this and some of its allies [presumably in allusion to the preceding] as alimentary, but there is no doubt that they could all be very well spared from the list." Opposed to this uncomplimentary aspersion is the testimony of other authorities who claim that "it is most delectable" and "a delicious morsel." Certain it is that in its young and tender condition only is it fit for food, as it becomes progressively tough in consistency towards maturity.
_PLATE XV_
THE ELM MUSHROOM
=Agaricus ulmarius=
=Pileus:= From three to five inches in diameter. Color, pale yellow or buff; smooth in young specimen, fissured, spotted, and leathery at maturity. Flesh in section white.
=Gills:= Dingy white, becoming tawny at maturity, extending down the stem.
=Stem:= Various in length, occasionally very short and attached to side of pileus; generally longer as in Plate, and "off centre"; white; substance solid.
=Spores:= White.
=Taste:= Suggesting fish when cooked.
=Odor:= Pleasant.
=Habitat:= Trunk of elm or from surfaces of broken or sawn branches. Often growing in dense masses covering several square feet.
PLATE XV
[Sidenote: =Massive growth=]
As its specific name implies--_Ulmus_--this mushroom is devoted to the elm, upon whose trunk and branches it may be often seen, either singly, which is rare, or in great dense masses, sometimes, covering a space of several square feet, often, unfortunately, at an inaccessible height from the ground. I have in my possession a photograph which has been sent to me by an interested correspondent representing a dead tree trunk, apparently a foot in diameter, densely covered to a height of seven feet from the ground with a mass of the _A. ulmarius_--and presumably representing thirty or forty pounds in weight. This species is most frequently seen on apparently healthy branches, or growing from the wood of a severed limb. Its season is late summer and autumn.
[Sidenote: =Botanical characters=]
A small cluster of these mushrooms is seen in Plate 15. They afford a good refutation of the old-time discriminating "ban," which excluded all mushrooms which grow "sidewise," or "upon wood." The individual mushroom of this species is a horizontal grower, sometimes with a barely noticeable or obsolete stem; in other specimens this portion being quite distinct and an inch or more in length, and firm and solid in texture. The upper surface is pale yellow or buff, smooth in the younger specimens, becoming disfigured by spots and fissures with age. The flesh is white, as also are the gills, though more dingy, becoming tawny-tinted with maturity, when the entire mushroom becomes quite leathery in substance, and might well awaken doubts as to its digestibility. The spores are white.
This fungus is known in some sections as the "Fish Mushroom," referring to its peculiar flavor, the appropriateness of which appellation is suggested in the incident related by Mr. Palmer, and quoted in my last chapter.
SHAGGY-MANE MUSHROOM
_Coprinus comatus_
[Sidenote: =A plebeian toadstool=]