Part 1

ON THE MEXICAN HIGHLANDS

With a Passing Glimpse of Cuba

BY

WILLIAM SEYMOUR EDWARDS

Author of “In To The Yukon,” “Through Scandinavia to Moscow,” etc.

CINCINNATI PRESS OF JENNINGS AND GRAHAM

COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY WILLIAM SEYMOUR EDWARDS

To

JULIUS H. SEYMOUR, OTTO ULRICH VON SCHRADER, EDMUND SEYMOUR, AND RUDOLPH MATZ, COMPANIONS, COMRADES, AND FELLOW-TRAVELLERS OF

“CAMP FLAP-JACK”

These pages are affectionately dedicated.

FOREWORD

These pages contain the impressions of a casual traveller--a few letters written to my friends.

Upon the temperate Highlands of Mexico, a mile and more above the sea, I was astonished and delighted at the salubrity of climate, the fertility of soil, the luxuriance of tree and plant, the splendor and beauty of the cities, the intelligence and progressiveness of the people, the orderliness and beneficence of the governmental rule.

In Cuba I caught the newborn sentiment for liberty and order, and at the same time came curiously into touch with restive leaders, who even then boldly announced the intention to plot and wreck that liberty and order by sinister revolution, if their wild spirits should find no other way to seize and hold command.

If there shall be aught among these letters to interest the reader, I shall welcome another to the little circle for whose perusal they were originally penned.

WILLIAM SEYMOUR EDWARDS.

CHARLESTON-KANAWHA, WEST VIRGINIA, November 1, 1906.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. FLYING IMPRESSIONS BETWEEN CHARLESTON-KANAWHA AND NEW ORLEANS, 15

II. THE LIFE AND COLOR OF NEW ORLEANS, 25

III. SOUTHWESTWARD TO THE BORDER, 36

IV. ON TO MEXICO CITY, 44

V. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MEXICO CITY, 56

VI. VIVID CHARACTERISTICS OF MEXICAN LIFE, 65

VII. A MEXICAN BULLFIGHT, 75

VIII. FROM PULLMAN CAR TO MULE-BACK, 86

IX. A JOURNEY OVER LOFTY TABLELANDS, 99

X. A PROVINCIAL DESPOT AND HIS RESIDENCE, 107

XI. INGURAN MINES--FIVE THOUSAND SIX HUNDRED FEET BELOW ARIO, 117

XII. ANTIQUE METHODS OF MINING, 128

XIII. SOME TROPICAL FINANCIAL MORALITY, 142

XIV. WAYSIDE INCIDENTS IN THE LAND OF HEAT, 157

XV. MORELIA--THE CAPITAL OF THE STATE OF MICHOACAN--HER STREETS--HER PARKS--HER CHURCHES--HER MUSIC, 168

XVI. MORELIA AND TOLUCA--THE MARKETS--THE COLLEGES--THE SCHOOLS--THE ANCIENT AND THE MODERN SPIRIT, 181

XVII. CUERNAVACA--THE COUNTRY SEAT OF MONTEZUMA, OF CORTEZ AND SPANISH VICEROYS, OF MAXIMILIAN--A PLEASANT WATERING PLACE OF MODERN MEXICO, 188

XVIII. THE JOURNEY BY NIGHT FROM MEXICO CITY--OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA COAST--THE ANCIENT CITY OF VERA CRUZ, 198

XIX. VOYAGING ACROSS THE GULF OF MEXICO AND STRAITS OF YUCATAN FROM VERA CRUZ TO PROGRESSO AND HAVANA, 210

XX. THE CITY OF “HABANA”--INCIDENTS OF A DAY’S SOJOURN IN THE CUBAN CAPITAL, 220

XXI. CUBA--THE FORTRESS OF LA CABAÑA, 236

XXII. CUBA--HER FERTILE SUGAR LANDS--MATANZAS BY THE SEA, 247

XXIII. CUBA--THE TOBACCO LANDS OF GUANAJAY--THE TOWN AND THE BAY OF MARIEL, 259

XXIV. STEAMER MASCOT--CONCLUSION, 270

TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Facing Page THE SIX COMRADES OF CAMP FLAP-JACK, 1881, 3 A VISTA OF MEXICO (_Frontispiece_), 15 LOG CABIN OF KENTUCKY MOUNTAINEER, 19 PICKING COTTON, MISSISSIPPI, 21 JACKSON STATUE, 28 THE CABILDO, 30 HAULING COTTON, NEW ORLEANS, 32 ALONG THE LEVEE, NEW ORLEANS, 34 ANCIENT FRENCH PAVEMENTS, 39 THE ALAMO, 41 OLD SPANISH CONVENT, 42 THE DESOLATE PLAINS, 46 AWAITING OUR TRAIN, 49 MULES CARRYING CORN, 51 A CARGADORE BEARING VEGETABLES, 53 PATIO, HOTEL ITURBIDE, 55 A SNAP-SHOT FOR A CENTAVO, 56 CARGADORES TOTING CASKS, 57 MY PROTECTORS OF THE MARKET, 58 ERRAND BOYS OF THE MARKET, 58 A RANCHERRO DUDE, 60 THE CATHEDRAL--MEXICO CITY, 62 LA CASA DE AZULEJOS--NOW JOCKEY CLUB, 64 PLEASED WITH MY CAMERA, 67 VOLCANO DE POPOCATEPETL, 69 A PULQUE PEDDLER, 71 A FRIEND OF MY KODAK, 72 DULCE VENDER, 73 VOLCANO DE IZTACCIHUATL, 74 SETTING A BANDERILLA, 76 TEASING EL TORO, 78 THE GARDENS OF CHAPULTEPEC, 81 MANZANILLO’S FATAL THRUST, 83 JUAREZ’ TOMB AND WREATHS OF SILVER, 85 THE TREE WHERE CORTEZ WEPT, EL NOCHE TRISTE, 87 LAKE PATZCUARO, 90 OUR DEPARTURE--FONDA DILIGENCIA, 92 THE DISMANTLED CONVENT, PATZCUARO, 94 IZUS AND EL PADRE, 96 THE HIGHWAY TO THE PACIFIC, 101 NEARING ARIO, 103 A MILK RANCH NEAR ARIO, 106 THE AUTHOR--PLAZA GRANDE, ARIO, 108 THE DISTANT CORDILLERA, 113 BEGGING A CENTAVO, 115 THE JEFE POLITICO AND SOLDIERS, 117 TRANSFERRING THE PRISONER, 119 COOLING THE HORSES--RANCHO NUEVO, 121 A WILD FIG-TREE--LA PLAYA, 122 VOLCANO DE JORULLO, 124 RANCHO SAN PEDRO, 126 IN FLIGHT FROM MY KODAK, 128 THE ANCIENT STAMP MILL, 131 COPPER ORE DUMPS--LA CHINA MINES, 133 MOVING A MANSION, 135 BRINGING OUT THE ORE--LA CHINA MINES, 137 WASHING COPPER ORE, 138 AN ANCIENT DUMP OF COPPER ORE, 140 THE LLANOS--HAWK POISED UPON AN ORGAN CACTUS, 142 ARRANGING A BATTLE, 146 THE VICTOR, 146 VAQUEROS CROSSING THE RIO DE LAS BALSAS, 150 THE LANDING, RIO DE LAS BALSAS, 154 THE MIGHTY CORDILLERA, 158 A FLOCK OF SHEEP NEAR ARIO, 165 A STREET SCENE--PATZCUARO, 167 A VISTA IN MORELIA, 170 THE CATHEDRAL OF MORELIA, 172 A WILD OTOME IN FLIGHT FROM MY KODAK, 181 A DILIGENCIA--TOLUCA, 183 A SNAP-SHOT THROUGH A DOORWAY--TOLUCA, 186 SUSPICIOUS OF MY CAMERA, 188 MY COCHA--CUERNAVACA, 193 SHRINE OF THE VIRGIN OF GUADALOUPE--CUERNAVACA, 195 THE BORDA GARDENS--CUERNAVACA, 197 AZTEC INDIANS--MEXICO CITY, 199 VOLCANO DE ORIZABA, 202 THE MUNICIPAL PALACE--VERA CRUZ, 204 THE TAME VULTURES OF VERA CRUZ, 206 A NOBLE PALM, 208 A STREET OF VERA CRUZ, 211 THE LITTLE BOYS LEAVING OUR SHIP, 213 OFF FOR PROGRESSO, 215 THE HARBOR OF HAVANA, 218 A SPANISH HOTEL--HAVANA, 220 CALLE OBISPO--HAVANA, 222 THE CATHEDRAL--HAVANA, 227 THE FIRST GREENSWARD--HAVANA, 229 SELLING VEGETABLES--HAVANA, 231 A CORNER OF THE MARKET--HAVANA, 234 THE FORTRESS OF LA CABAÑA, 236 THE ENTRANCE TO LA CABAÑA, 238 WHERE PATRIOTS WERE SHOT--LA CABAÑA, 243 A SPANISH PARK--MATANZAS, 247 THE WRECK OF THE MAINE, 250 A GLIMPSE OF MATANZAS, 254 DRESSED FOR THE DAY, 259 ALONG THE MILITARY ROAD--A CEIBA TREE, 263 THE BAY OF MARIEL, 266 WRECK OF THE ALFONSO XII, 270 KEY WEST LIGHT--THE SOUTHERN EXTREMITY OF THE UNITED STATES, 277 MAP OF MY JOURNEY, 283

ON THE MEXICAN HIGHLANDS

I

Flying Impressions Between Charleston-Kanawha and New Orleans

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, _November 15th_.

When the New York and Cincinnati Flyer (the “F. F. V. Limited”) came into Charleston yesterday, it was an hour late and quite a crowd was waiting to get aboard. Going with me as far as Kenova were D, H, and eight or ten of “the boys.” They all carried Winchesters and were bound on a trip to the mountains of Mingo and McDowell, on the Kentucky line, to capture a moonshine still which was reported to be doing a fine business selling to the mines. D wanted me to go along, and offered me a rifle or a shotgun, as I chose. They are big men, all of them, and love a scrap, which means the give and take of death, and have no fear except of ambush. I still carry in my pocket the flat-nosed bullet D took from the rifle of Johnse Hatfield two years ago, when he caught him lying-in-wait behind a rock watching for Doc. Ellis to come forth from his front door. Johnse was afterward hanged in Pikeville for other crimes. Then, a few months later, his brother “Lias,” just to get even, picked off Doc. Ellis as he was getting out of a Pullman car. Now “Lias” is said to be looking for D, also, but D says he’s as handy with his gun as “Lias” is, if only he can get a fair show. D is captain of this raid and promises to bring me tokens of a successful haul, but I am apprehensive that, one of these days, he or some other of “the boys” will not come back to Charleston.

At Ashland my Louisville car was attached to the Lexington train, and we turned to the left up the long grade and soon plunged into the hill country of eastern Kentucky. Here is a rough, harsh land, a poor, yellow soil, underlying miles of forest from which the big timber has long since been felled. Here and there small clearings contain log cabins, shack barns, and soil which must always produce crops as mean as the men who till it. We were traversing the land of the vendettas. At the little stations, long, lank, angular men were gathered, quite frequently with a rifle or a Winchester shotgun in their bony hands. It was only two or three years ago that one of these passenger trains was “held up,” by a rifle-armed gang, who found the man they were looking for crouching in the end of the smoker, and shot him to death right then and there--but not before he had killed two or three of the assassins.

I had gone forward into the smoking car, for it is in the day coaches where one meets the people of the countryside when traveling. I had seated myself beside a tall, white-haired old man who was silently smoking a stogie, such as is made by the local tobacco growers of this hill country. He had about him the air of a man of importance. He was dressed in homespun jeans and wore the usual slouch felt hat. He had a strong, commanding face, with broad, square chin and a blue eye which bespoke friendliness, and yet hinted of inexorable sternness. I gave him my name and told him where I lived, and whither I was going, introducing myself as one always must when talking to these mountain people. He was a republican, like myself, he said, and had several times been sheriff of his county; but that was many years ago and he declared himself to be now “a man of peace.” We talked of the vendettas and he told me of a number of these tragedies. When I made bold to ask him whether he had ever had any “trouble” himself, he replied, “No, not for right smart o’ yearn;” and then he slowly drew from his trousers pocket, a little buckskin bag, and unwound the leathern thong with which it was fast tied. Having opened it he took out three misshapen pieces of lead and handed them to me, remarking, “‘T was many yearn ago I cut them thar pieces of lead, and four more of the same kind, from this h’yar leg of mine,” slapping his hand upon his right thigh. “But where are the other four?” I queried. For an instant the blue eyes dilated and glittered as he replied, “I melted ’em up into bullets agen, and sent ’em back whar they cum from.” “Did you kill him?” I asked. The square jaws broadened grimly, and he said, “Wall, I don’t say I killed him, but he ain’t been seen aboot thar sence.” I offered him one of my best cigars, and turned to the subject of the horses of Kentucky. He was going to Lexington, he said, to attend the horse sales the coming week and he begged me to “light off with him,” for he was sure I would there “find a beast” I would delight to own. I promised to visit him some day when I should return, and he has vouched to receive me with all the hospitality for which Kentucky mountaineers, as well as blue grass gentlemen, are famed.

When we had come quite through the hill region, we rolled out into a country with better soil, and land more generally cleared, and much in grass. It was the renowned blue grass section of Kentucky, and at dark we were in Lexington. Twinkling lights were all that I could see of the noted town. The people who were about the station platform were well dressed and looked well fed, and a number of big men climbed aboard.

We arrived at Louisville half an hour late. This was fortunate, for we had to wait only an hour for the train to Memphis, via Paducah. Two ladies, who sat behind me when I entered the car at Charleston, stood beside me when I secured my ticket in the Memphis sleeper and took the section next to mine. It had been my intention to change trains at Memphis, take the Yazoo Valley Railway and go via Vicksburg, thinking that I might see something of the Mississippi River; but in the morning I met a young engineer of the Illinois Central Railroad, who told me that this route had a very bad track, the cars were poor, the trains slow, while the line itself lay ten or twelve miles back from the river so that I should never see it; therefore, I decided to stick to the through fast train on which I had started, and go on to New Orleans by the direct route down through central Mississippi.

When I awoke we were speeding southward through the wide, flat country of western Tennessee. We passed through acres of cornstalks from which the roughness (the leaves of the corn) and ears had been plucked, through broad reaches of tobacco stumps, and here and there rolled by a field white with cotton.

In the toilet room of the sleeper I found myself alone with a huge, black-bearded, curly-headed planter, who was alternately taking nips from a gigantic silver flask and ferociously denouncing the Governor of Indiana for refusing to surrender Ex-governor Taylor to the myrmidons of Kentucky law, to be there tried by a packed jury for the assassination of Governor Goebel. I finally felt unable to keep silent longer, and told him that I did not see the justice of his position, and reminded him that the Governors of the neighboring States of West Virginia, Ohio and Illinois had publicly expressed their approval of the Governor of Indiana, and their disapproval of the political methods then prevailing in Kentucky. He looked steadily at me with an air of some surprise, then stretching out his flask begged me to take a drink with him. He thereafter said no more on politics, but talked for half an hour of the tobacco and cotton crops of western Tennessee.

We arrived in Memphis at about ten o’clock of the morning and stopped there some time. In the big and dirty railway station I felt myself already in a country other than West Virginia.

Memphis, the little I saw of it, appeared to be a straggling, shabby town, with wide, dusty streets, and many rambling dilapidated buildings. The people had lost the rosy, hearty look of the blue grass country, and were pale and sallow, while increasingly numerous everywhere were the ebony-hued negroes. We were passing from the latitude of the mulattoes to that of the jet-blacks, the pure blooded Africans.

Leaving Memphis, we turned southeastward and then due south, through the central portions of the state of Mississippi. Here spreads a flat country, with thin, yellow soil in corn and cotton. Everywhere were multitudes of negroes, all black as night. Negro women and children were picking cotton in the fields. There were wide stretches of apparently abandoned land, once under cultivation, much of it now growing up in underbrush and much of it white with ripened seedling cotton. In many places the blacks were gathering this cotton, apparently for themselves. There were a few small towns, at long intervals. Everywhere bales of cotton were piled on the railway station platforms; generally the big, old-fashioned bales, occasionally the small bale made by the modern compress. This is the shipping season, and we frequently passed teams of four and six mules, hauling large wagons piled high with cotton bales coming toward the railway stations. We passed through great forests of the long-leaved yellow pine, interspersed with much cottonwood and magnolia, while the leaves of the sumach marked with vivid red the divisions of the clearings and the fields. The day was dull and cloudy and a chill lingered in the air. The two lady travelers sat all day long with their curtains down and never left their books. The scenery and life of Mississippi held no interest for them.

In the late afternoon we passed through Mississippi’s capital, Jackson, and could see in the distance the rising walls of the new statehouse, to be a white stone building of some pretentions. Here a number of Italians and Jews, well dressed and evidently well-to-do, entered our sleeper _en route_ to New Orleans. The country trade of Mississippi is said to be now almost altogether in the hands of Jews and of Italians. The latter coming up from New Orleans, are acquiring many of the plantations in both Mississippi and Louisiana, as well as, in many cases, pushing out the blacks from the work on the plantations by reason of their superior intelligence, industry and thrift. A lull in Italian immigration followed the New Orleans massacre of the Mafia plotters some years ago, but that tragedy is now quite forgotten, and a steady influx of Italians of a better type has set in.

In the dining car, I sat at midday lunch with a round-faced, pleasant mannered man some forty years of age, with whom I fell into table chat. He was a writer on the staff of a western monthly magazine and was well acquainted with the country we were traversing. He pointed out places of local interest as we hurried southward, while many incidents of history were awakened in my own mind. All of this land of swamp and bayou and cotton field had been marched and fought over by the contending armies during the Civil War. Here Grant skirmished with Johnston and won his first great triumphs of strategy in the capture of Vicksburg. Here the cotton planters in “ye olden time” lived like lords and applauded their senators in Congress for declaring in public speech that “Mississippi and Louisiana wanted no public roads.” Here Spain and France contended for supremacy and finally yielded to the irresistible advance of the English-speaking American pioneer, pressing southwestward from Georgia, Carolina and Tennessee.

It was still the same flat country when, near dusk, we entered Louisiana. At the first station where we stopped an old man was offering for sale jugs of “new molasses” and sticks of sugar cane--the first hint that we were surely below the latitude of the frosts.

It was a murky night, no stars were out, only a flash of distant electric lights told us that we were approaching New Orleans. We were in the city before I was aware. Quickly passing many unlighted streets, we were suddenly among dimly lighted houses, and then drew into an old-time depot, a wooden building yet more dilapidated than that of Memphis. We were instantly surrounded by a swarm of negroes. There were acres of them with scarcely a white face to be seen. I made out one of the swarthy blacks to be the porter of the new St. Charles Hotel. Giving him my bags, I was piloted to an old-fashioned ’bus and was soon driving over well asphalted streets amidst electric lights, and found myself in the thoroughfares of a really great city. From broad Canal Street we turned down a narrow alley and drew up in front of a fine modern hotel. This is an edifice of iron, stone and tile, with seemingly no wood in its structure, large, spacious and filled with guests, the chief hostelry of New Orleans, and worthy of the modern conditions now prevailing in this Spanish-French-American metropolis of the Gulf States.

II

The Life and Color of New Orleans

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, _November 16th_.