Category: Travel Writing

On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)

was informed that every Englishman could travel where he liked in the Turkish Empire, and that nothing was required but the ordinary foreign office passport, one of which His Excellency enclosed.

Chapters

35. CHAPTER II.

The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing like the Hôtel de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux truffes—Baksheesh—Officials in the custom-house—A rickety old carriage—A Turkish Café Chantan...

37. CHAPTER IV.

Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A cemetery—A wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He ain't got no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—A roarer—The blind beggars hear him...

48. CHAPTER XV.

The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How to cross the river—The current—Can my brother swim?—How to embark the horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandaging the horse's eyes—...

46. CHAPTER XIII.

The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a Turkish dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish etiquette at dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people ask for many liras—The P...

39. CHAPTER VI.

The proprietor of the establishment—_Lingua franca_—Gold, not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No rooms—The Onbashee—His costume—The guard-house—A queer place—"_At gitdi!_ the ho...

44. CHAPTER XI.

One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's two sons—They like your nation—They remember the Crimean War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The town of Angora to be illuminat...

36. CHAPTER III.

The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive force—Trains in Turkey are not very punctual—Two Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The railroad takes a circuitous course—Krupp guns—The Chri...

51. CHAPTER XVIII.

The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps of different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged in prayer—Comparison between Christians and Mussulmans—Daravish Bey—A wonderful...

60. CHAPTER XXVII.

The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's treasurer—The Pacha's carriage—The Turks and Christians—The Russian Government—The Armenian subjects of the Porte—The seeds of di...

43. CHAPTER X.

Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians kiss each other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's honesty—Forage for five horses—It is a good sign in a horse to be always hungry...

56. CHAPTER XXIII.

The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five piastres—Osman detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's remarks—The sentence—May I put Osman in prison?—The barracks—Two old Khans—The wom...

64. CHAPTER XXXI.

The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The number of houses—The...

53. CHAPTER XX.

The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her attire—Vankovitch's wife—A glass of raki—The fat woman—The man with the bagpipes—The...

40. CHAPTER VII.

An Armenian Bishop—An economical refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking in the streets—The Turkish Government is not so bad—The Koran and a Christian witness—A telegram from the Pacha at S...

50. CHAPTER XVII.

M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We keep our wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Law about divorce—Shutting up the wives—Turkish husbands—How to get a divorce—Marrying a...

55. CHAPTER XXII.

Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to march to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The road from Tokat to Sivas—The population of Tokat—The rich inhabitants bribe the...

34. CHAPTER I.

The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obese Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-room at Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The silk-me...

65. CHAPTER XXXII.

Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan Ereek's father—A Government cannot be imprisoned for debt—The redif soldiers—Their...

59. CHAPTER XXVI.

The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds and Circassians—A few Armenians—False statement made to me by Christians—The old murderer—The firman for his execution—K...

49. CHAPTER XVI.

A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with some Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans by the Russians—Women violated—Little boys and girls abused and murdered—The M...

57. CHAPTER XXIV.

Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising in the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A wonderful servant—Mohammed—His Captain—An Armenian doctor—Business is flat—The C...

54. CHAPTER XXI.

Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion going to Samsoun—The local...

47. CHAPTER XIV.

We leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very old cock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on horseback—Baggage upset in the river—Cartridges in the water—Osman castigating th...

45. CHAPTER XII.

The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A society of thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks and the Armenians—So-called fana...

52. CHAPTER XIX.

A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The impalement story—The law is equally bad for Turks and Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians and Greeks in Yuzgat—The o...

38. CHAPTER V.

Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A frightened horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the mud—A _rahvan_, or ambler—A runaway steed—Osman always praying whenever there is work...

58. CHAPTER XXV.

Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from Tokat to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints made against the Circassians—Highly cultivated soil—The Tchamlay Bel mo...

42. CHAPTER IX.

Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The state of the roads—Will there be war?—The Imaum—The Servians—A bellicose old farmer—The Armenians friends with the Russian...

41. CHAPTER VIII.

Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara Su—A strategic position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks firing at a target—The river Goonook—A bl...

62. CHAPTER XXIX.

The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short route to Erzerou...

61. CHAPTER XXVIII.

An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging to the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish finance—The Armenian merchants in Sivas—The telegraph employed by them—The ri...

63. CHAPTER XXX.

Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a snow-drift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the ground—A consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he die of the plague—A bagg...

1. letter I received, by return of post, the most courteous reply. I

was informed that every Englishman could travel where he liked in the Turkish Empire, and that nothing was required but the ordinary foreign office passport, one of which His Ex...

3. CHAPTER II.

The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing like the Hôtel de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux truffes—Baksheesh—Officials in the custom-house—A rickety old carriage—A Turkish Café Chantan...

21. CHAPTER XX.

The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—The dancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her attire—Vankovitch's wife—A glass of raki—The fat woman—The man with the bagpipes—The...

32. CHAPTER XXXI.

The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The number of houses—The...

22. CHAPTER XXI.

Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in the neighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—The audience-chamber—The Cadi—The battalion going to Samsoun—The local...

12. CHAPTER XI.

One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir's two sons—They like your nation—They remember the Crimean War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—The town of Angora was to be illum...

16. CHAPTER XV.

The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—How to cross the river—The triangular-shaped barge—The current—Can my brother swim?—How to embark the horses—Osman's expostulation...

23. CHAPTER XXII.

Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is to march to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—The road from Tokat to Sivas—The population of Tokat—The rich inhabitants bribe the...

14. CHAPTER XIII.

The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a Turkish dinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish etiquette at dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The people ask for many liras—The P...

13. CHAPTER XII.

The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmas day in Angora—The celebrities of the town—A society of thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turks and the Armenians—So-called fana...

28. CHAPTER XXVII.

The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive's treasurer—The Pacha's carriage—The Turks and Christians—The Russian Government—The Armenian subjects of the Porte—The seeds of di...

20. CHAPTER XIX.

A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—The impalement story—The law equally bad for Turks and Christians—Peculiarity about the Armenians and Greeks in Yuzgat—The outs...

11. CHAPTER X.

Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians kiss each other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman's honesty—Forage for five horses—It is a good sign in a horse to be always hungry...

2. CHAPTER I.

The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obese Englishman and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-room at Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—The silk-me...

29. CHAPTER XXVIII.

An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging to the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish finance—The Armenian merchants in Sivas—The telegraph employed by them—The ri...

4. CHAPTER III.

The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive force—Trains in Turkey are not very punctual—Two Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—The railroad takes a circuitous course—Krupp guns—The Chri...

17. CHAPTER XVI.

A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation with some Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomans by the Russians—Women violated—Little boys and girls abused and murdered—The M...

18. CHAPTER XVII.

M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—We keep our wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Law about divorce—Shutting up the wives—Turkish husbands—How to get a divorce—Marrying a...

19. CHAPTER XVIII.

The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lamps of different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged in prayer—Comparison between Christians and Mussulmans—Daravish Bey—A wonderful...

5. CHAPTER IV.

Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—A cemetery—A wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"He ain't got no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—A roarer—The blind beggars hear him...

7. CHAPTER VI.

The proprietor of the establishment—_Lingua franca_—Gold, not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—No rooms—The Onbashee—His costume—The guard-house—A queer place—"_At gitdi!_ the ho...

24. CHAPTER XXIII.

The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five piastres—Osman detected—The guilty man—Vankovitch's remarks—The sentence—May I put Osman in prison?—The barracks—Two old Khans—The wom...

8. CHAPTER VII.

An Armenian Bishop—An economical refreshment—Ramazan—Smoking in the streets—The Turkish Government is not so bad—The Koran and a Christian witness—A telegram from the Pacha at S...

10. CHAPTER IX.

Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—The state of the roads—Will there be war?—The Imaum—The Servians—A bellicose old farmer—The Armenians friends with the Russian...

33. CHAPTER XXXII.

Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—The Caimacan—The Turkish creditor—Hanistan Ereek's father—A Government cannot be imprisoned for debt—The redif soldiers—Their...

30. CHAPTER XXIX.

The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short route to Erzerou...

26. CHAPTER XXV.

Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road from Tokat to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaints made against the Circassians—Highly cultivated soil—The Tchamlay Bel mo...

31. CHAPTER XXX.

Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a snowdrift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the ground—A consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he die of the plague—A bagga...

9. CHAPTER VIII.

Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—The Greeks in league with the Tzar—The Kara Su—A strategic position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouks firing at a target—The river Goonook—A bl...

25. CHAPTER XXIV.

Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a rising in the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—A wonderful servant—Mohammed—His Captain—An Armenian doctor—Business is flat—The C...

15. CHAPTER XIV.

Leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very old cock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman on horseback—Baggage upset in the river—Cartridges in the water—Osman castigating the d...

27. CHAPTER XXVI.

The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurds and Circassians—A few Armenians—False statement made to me by Christians—The old murderer—The firman for his execution—K...

6. CHAPTER V.

Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—A frightened horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in the mud—A _rahvan_, or ambler—A runaway steed—Osman always praying whenever there is work...