Part 7
"_Whalebone-Veils_ are worn by all the fashionable dames at Weymouth. This invention is evidently borrowed from the head of a one horse chaise."--(_Times, August 27, 1796._)
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"_High heels_ are once more the rage; there is, however, no scarcity of _flats_. During the reign of the _flat sole_, the Ladies make more faux-pas than ever, so that we need entertain no apprehensions for them, if they chuse to get upon stilts. What with high heels and high feathers, the _better half_ of many an honest man is just one third part of herself."--(_Times, August 27, 1796._)
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"Fashion would be its own murderer, if it were to be constant and permanent. The last year's dress seems to abdicate entirely; even the waist is walking down towards the hip; and three straps, with buckles in front, have abridged so much of the usurpation of the petticoat. One cannot see so many Ladies of high ton with the straps over the bosom, without thinking how much better they might have been employed over the shoulders."--(_Times, Aug. 27, 1796._)
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"Before the waist is quite again in fashion, and while the thing exists (which will soon be incredible), we set down the measurement of a petticoat in the summer of 1796, which for a middling-sized woman is five foot and an inch."--(_Times, Nov. 4, 1796._)
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"It would not be easily believed by our Great Grandmothers, that their lovely daughters cannot make their appearance without a dozen combs in their heads, and as many false curls and cushions. The victory over black pins is complete."--(_Times, May 30, 1797._)
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"Horse Hair has risen near 50 per cent. since Wigs have become so much the rage."--(_Times, April 27, 1798._)
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"The women at Paris are every day divesting themselves of some of the customary articles of dress, and the rage for _nudity_ is so great, that it is apprehended, even by the Parisian Journalists, they will shortly have the effrontery to present themselves to the public eye in a state of pure nature. One of them appeared a few days since in the Champs Elysées, in a simple robe of spotted black gauze, and shewed so much that little was left to guess. The spectators were struck with indignation at this flagrant violation of decorum, and she was compelled to make a shameful and precipitate retreat."--(_Times, June 18, 1798._)
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"An Artist has advertised that he makes up worn out Umbrellas into fashionable Gypsey Bonnets. The transition is so easy, that he is scarce to be praised for the invention.
"The _Gypsey Bonnet_ is commonly worn by the Lancashire Witches."--(_Times, July 7, 1798._)
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"We are very happy to see the waists of our fair country women walking downwards by degrees towards the hip. But, as we are a little acquainted with the laws of increasing velocity in fashionable gravitation, we venture to express, thus early in their descent, a hope that they will _stop there_."--(_Times, April 15, 1799._)
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"_Straw_ in the head-dress, according to the laws and immemorial customs of the stage, denotes the unsoundness of the brain it covers. Several of those useful and respectable young men, who make the campaign of Bond Street, have thought proper to invest their temples with the sacred symbols, and wear straw hats to give notice of their light-headedness."--(_Times, July 4, 1799._)
The Censor could also be severe on the harmless "Reticule."
"In the present age of political innovation, it is curious to observe the great veneration for antiquity which prevails in all our dresses and fashions. Queen Elizabeth's ruffs decorate our blooming belles; and our beaux are puckered and stuffed on the shoulders _à la Richard the Third_. But what is still more remarkable, is the total abjuration of the female pocket. Those heavy appendages are no more worn at present than keys at the girdles. Every fashionable fair carries her purse in her workbag. Her money and her industry lie cheek by jowl: and her gambling gains lie snug by her housewife. Her handkerchiefs, her toothpick case, her watch, and her keys, if she has any, are the constant concomitants of her visits; and while no part of the symmetry of her shape is altered or concealed by the old-fashioned panniers, she has the pleasure of laying everything that belongs to her upon the table wherever she goes."--(_Times, Nov. 9, 1799._)
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"A dashing Lady of Fashion, inconvenienced by the new custom of carrying a bag with her handkerchief, smelling-bottle, purse, &c., &c., went to a large party the other evening, attended by a Page, who was employed to present the articles as they might be wanted. The Page was well qualified to go through the fatigues of office, being well-made, active, and just one and twenty. Should the example be imitated, Pages will probably be more in request than waiting-women."--(_Times, Dec. 7, 1799._)
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"If the present fashion of nudity continues its career, the Milliners must give way to the Carvers, and the most elegant _fig-leaves_ will be all the mode.
"The fashion of _false bosoms_ has at least this utility, that it compels our fashionable fair to wear _something_."--(_Times, Dec. 11, 1799._)
With which most pungent criticism, we will take our leave of lady's _dress_.
NAVY AND ARMY.
No history of England, that I know of, has ever given us so graphic a description of the ways and means for procuring men for the Navy, as the Newspapers of the time, and in this, as in many other things, their help is invaluable.
When we find from what classes the Navy was recruited, we wonder at what the men went through, without much murmuring; and, if their very moderate, and just, demands, had been met in a conciliatory spirit, or even, officially investigated, instead of being pooh-poohed, and shelved--there would have been no mutiny at the Nore, nor elsewhere.
When afloat, sailors were kept in subjection, or as it was termed, discipline, by brutality, foul language, and a plentiful application of the lash, to be recouped by almost unlimited license, whilst on shore, or, for the matter of that, when afloat, if at home in harbour. When the _Royal George_ went down, there were 200 women on board, and in Dibdin's song of "Wapping Old Stairs," the heroine plaintively reminds her temporary lover thus--
"When _I passed a whole fortnight between decks with you_, Did I e'er give a kiss, Tom, to one of the Crew?"
When the War with France broke out, it was hardly to be imagined that Fishermen, and Merchant seamen, would volunteer to leave their quiet occupation, to be bullied by petty, and other officers; to be triced up, and lashed unmercifully, for even a venial fault; to be no better paid, nor fed than they were already; and to have an extra chance of death in a Naval engagement, even if the English were victorious, or the certainty of semi-starvation in a French prison, if captured. So the State, wanting food for slaughter, stretched out its strong hand, and took it, by means of the pressgang. I shall have to recount a long list of "severe," or "hot," presses--and, first of all, in order that we may perfectly understand what a "press" was, and so thoroughly identify ourselves with the position, let us see the very minute, and vivid, description of _Smollett_, in "Roderick Random."
"As I crossed Tower Wharf, a squat, tawny fellow, with a hanger by his side, and a cudgel in his hand, came up to me calling, 'Yo ho! brother, you must come along with me.' As I did not like his appearance, instead of answering his salutation, I quickened my pace, in hopes of ridding myself of his company; upon which, he whistled aloud, and immediately another sailor appeared before me, who laid hold of me by the collar, and began to drag me along. Not being of a humour to relish such treatment, I disengaged myself of the assailant, and, with one blow of my cudgel, laid him motionless on the ground; and, perceiving myself surrounded in a trice, by ten or a dozen more, exerted myself with such dexterity and success, that some of my opponents were fain to attack me with drawn Cutlasses; and, after an obstinate engagement, in which I received a large wound on my head, and another on my left cheek, I was disarmed, taken prisoner, and carried on board a pressing tender; where, after being pinioned like a malefactor, I was thrust down into the hold, among a parcel of miserable wretches, the sight of whom well nigh distracted me.
"As the commanding officer had not humanity enough to order my wounds to be dressed, and I could not use my own hands, I desired one of my fellow-captives who was unfettered, to take a handkerchief out of my pocket, and tie it round my head, to stop the bleeding. He pulled out my handkerchief ('tis true), but, instead of applying it to the use for which I designed it, went to the grating of the hatchway, and, with astonishing composure, sold it before my face to a bum boat woman, then on board, for a quart of gin, with which he treated my companions, regardless of my circumstances, and entreaties.
"I complained bitterly of this robbery, to the midshipman on deck, telling him, at the same time, that, unless my wounds were dressed, I should bleed to death. But compassion was a weakness of which no man could justly accuse this person, who squirted a mouthful of dissolved tobacco upon me through the gratings, told me 'I was a mutinous dog, and that I might die, and be damned.' Finding there was no other remedy, I appealed to patience, and laid up this usage in my memory, to be recalled at a fitter season. In the meantime, loss of blood, vexation, and want of food, contributed, with the noisome stench of the place, to throw me into a swoon; out of which I was recovered by the tar who stood centinel over us, who at the same time regaled me with a draught of flip, and comforted me with the hopes of being put on board the _Thunder_ next day, where I should be freed of my handcuffs, and cured of my wounds by the doctor."
Now let us see how the press worked--
"The Press in the River Thames, for the three last days, has been very severe. Five or six hundred seamen have been laid hold of."--(_Times, February 18th, 1793._)
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"On Wednesday night the press was very hot on the river Thames; all the ships, both homeward, and outward, bound, were stripped of their hands; not excepting two outward bound East Indiamen, which were to have sailed yesterday."--(_Times, March 9, 1793._)
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"The press has been so hot, for seamen, since the order of Friday last, that three Tenders, full of men, have been dispatched from the Tower to the 'Sandwich' guardship at the Nore."--(_Times, March 27, 1793._)
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"A hot press has, for the last two nights, been carried on from London bridge to the Nore; protections are disregarded, and almost all the vessels in the River have been stripped of their hands."--(_Times, April 26, 1793._)
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"The sailors are so scarce, that upwards of 60 sail of merchants ships, bound to the West Indies, and other places, are detained in the River, with their ladings on board; seven outward bound East Indiamen are likewise detained at Gravesend, for want of sailors to man them."--(_Times, Jan. 7, 1794._)
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"The number of seamen to be voted for the service of the present year, including 12,000 marines, will be 85,000 men."--(_Times, Jan. 29, 1794._)
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"There was a smart press on Monday, on the river, for seamen, and, in many of the avenues to the town, several hundreds were picked up, and put on board the receiving ship at the Tower."--(_Times, April 2, 1794._)
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"Poole, Nov. 30.
"This morning arrived in Steedland Bay, the 'Maria,' from Newfoundland, having some passengers on board, besides the crew; the officers of the impress service expecting to meet some resistance, had called for military assistance, and 20 soldiers, armed, went on board the tender, which went down the harbour, to meet the vessel; when coming alongside, and finding the people obstinate, orders were given to the soldiers to fire, which they did; the pilot (then at the helm), and two other men, were killed on the spot, and seven others dangerously wounded, one of whom is since dead. Lieutenants Phillips and Glover, with all who were on board the tender, are taken into custody, and the whole town is in the greatest commotion."--(_Times, Dec. 3, 1794._)
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"That part of Mr. Pitt's plan for manning the navy, which recommends to the Magistrates to take cognizance of all idle, and disorderly people, who have no visible means of livelihood, may, certainly, procure a great number of able bodied men who are lurking about the metropolis, if properly enforced. But experience teaches, that, unless the Magistrates see that their _Runners_ do justice to the public, this salutary measure may be in a great measure defeated, from the interest which the _Runners_ are known to have, in _nursing_ those vagabonds, which the law enacts should be laid hold of."--(_Times, Feb. 11, 1795._)
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"A meeting on the subject of the Navy was held last week at Newcastle, the result of which was, the choosing of a Committee, three of whom are to confer with Mr. Dundas--'to recommend the suspension of the impress, to send into actual service the gangs and crews of the tenders, (amounting, it is said, from seven to ten thousand,) to increase the wages of seamen in the navy, and to pay half of it, monthly, for the support of their families.'"--(_Times, Feb. 11, 1795._)
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"An Embargo is about to take place on all the shipping in our ports, which it is thought will last SIX WEEKS, or until 20,000 seamen are procured. The embargo was to take place as last night."--(_Times, Feb. 19, 1795._)
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"There was a very hot press in the river, on Friday night last, when several hundred able seamen were procured. One of the gangs, in attempting to board a Liverpool trader, were resisted by the crew, when a desperate affray took place, in which many of the former were thrown overboard, and the Lieutenant who boarded them, killed by a shot from the vessel."--(_Times, June 9, 1795._)
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"A very general search for seamen has taken place in the river, for several nights past; such is the greatest want of hands to mix on board the men-of-war now ready at the Nore, Chatham, Sheerness," &c.--(_Times, June 18, 1795._)
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"The Press gallies are out in the river, night and day, in order to pick up men; the demand for seamen being still very great from the vast quantities of shipping now employed in Government service."--(_Times, Aug. 29, 1795._)
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"One of the Juries that was impannelled on the Coroner's Inquest, to examine the body of one of the unfortunate men that was killed in the affray that took place between the pressgang, and the sailors, belonging to the 'Maria' of Poole, have returned their verdict of _Wilful Murder_ against the two Lieutenants of the Navy."--(_Times, Dec. 5, 1794._)
The following instructive little story will shew how mutinies were made:--
"The mutiny which existed several days on board the 'Culloden' of 74 guns, and which, it is said, originated in the wish of the crew to have the ship docked, previous to her sailing for the West Indies, was, on Wednesday, settled by an order from the Admiralty in the following manner:--'That several Captains were to go on board and inform the crew, unless they immediately returned to their duty, the "Royal George" of 110 guns, and "Queen," of 98 guns, would directly be laid alongside them.' They were allowed half an hour to consider the matter. The officers, and others, who chose to leave the ship, were at liberty so to do. The ship's company several times wanted to make terms, which could not possibly be complied with: in about twenty minutes they all agreed to return to their duty; 12 of the ringleaders were instantly seized, and put in irons, and will no doubt be tried by a Court Martial for the same. During the time the ship was in this mutinous state, the crew flogged several marines because they would not join them, and would have punished the whole, had they gone below."--(_Times, Dec. 13, 1794._)
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"The cause of the mutiny, on board the 'Culloden,' was briefly this. In coming into Spithead, the 'Sampson,' and 'Culloden,' both run a-ground. The former was a good deal damaged: the latter lost only her rudder, which could easily be repaired at Spithead, but the 'Sampson' was obliged to be carried into dock. Some of the seamen of the 'Culloden,' in a mutinous manner, expressed their doubts of the safety of the ship: and, upon being remonstrated with, insisted upon going into harbour."--(_Times, Dec. 16, 1794._)
Which were right, the Sailors, or the Admiralty?
Here is a curious case, which shows the want of men to man the fleet, and how unscrupulously even magistrates lent themselves against all justice, and equity, in helping to kidnap men for the use of the Navy Services:--
"PUBLIC OFFICE, BOW STREET.--A master bricklayer, of the name of Whitehead, brought his apprentice before the sitting magistrate, on a charge of having stolen a scaffolding board, value under _ninepence_: he had his choice, either to enlist as a soldier, or to be sent on board the fleet: to both of which he objected. The Magistrate then ordered a letter to be written to the Regulating Captain, Tower Hill, to have him sent on board the Navy."--(_Times, Jan. 5, 1795._)
On this, one of the spectators addressed Mr. Bond, and told him he was acting improperly.
"Who are you?" says Mr. B----. "I am a Mr. Thompson, a Member of the House of Commons for Evesham: and I tell you that you act illegally." "Do you tell me, sitting here as a magistrate, that I act illegally?" "I do: for the boy has committed a crime, he is not to be punished by you, or any other justice: it is to the laws of the land, and to them alone, that he is amenable: and I say, that it is a violation of the liberty of the subject." Mr. Bond observed, that the King wanted men: and did not Mr. Thompson think that it was proper to procure those for him, who had forfeited their liberty? Mr. T. replied, that he knew that the King _did_ want men, but that that was a very improper mode of coming at them. Mr. Bond then observed, that probably Mr. T. might investigate it in the House of Commons: but whether he did or did not, he should act as he thought proper for that time. He then sent for Major Leeson, and had him enlisted. Mr. Thompson signified as much to him, as that it should be brought before the House."
(On Monday, 5th Jan., the matter was introduced in a speech of Mr. Thompson's, on the Habeas Corpus Bill, but nothing was done.)
Jack did, occasionally, get some prize money, but nothing ever came up to the "Hermione" in 1762, when each ordinary seaman had about £800 for his share; but when we look at the disparity between the Captain's and Sailor's share, we can enter into the spirit of the Sailor's prayer, before an engagement, that the shots might be apportioned, like the prize money,--the greater part among the officers.
"By the determination of the Lord Chancellor in favour of the captors of the _St. Jago_ Register ship, Admiral Gell will get, as his proportion, near £100,000 prize money. All the captains of his fleet will divide about £30,000, and so downwards in proportion. The precise value of the _St. Jago_, Spanish ship, retaken in April 1793, from the French, which the Lords of Appeal adjudged to the captors, on Thursday evening last, is £935,000."--(_Times, Feb. 4, 1795._)
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"The first payment of the immense St. Jago prize is commenced, Captain Sir A. Douglas having received his share. The following is the declared proportion of the specie only: Each Captain's share, £13,920; Lieutenant's share, £910; Warrant officer's share, £612; Petty officer's share, £140; Foremast-man's share, £26. Besides two seventh's shares of the whole in reserve, till the question, whether the _Boyne_, and _Powerful_, have a right to share with the Squadron. The above statement is independent of the valuable cargo, and bullion, which are yet to be shared. The Admiral's shares are not yet declared."--(_Times, March 21, 1795._)
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"Saturday, the 26th inst., the sailors on board the _Sea Horse_ frigate, had 2800 dollars served out to them at Portsmouth, and leave of absence for 48 hours' recreation on shore. This ship shares the whole of the Spanish prizes taken by her, and carried into Portsmouth. Their cargoes consist principally of about 300,000 dollars and gold doubloons, and about 120,000 raw hides, tallow," &c.--(_Times, Dec. 2, 1796._)
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"The Spanish prize, taken by the _Raven_ brig, one of Admiral Earl St. Vincent's squadron, which was sent home, now lies at Deptford, where she is strongly guarded, and no persons suffered to go on board, till she has gone through a complete search, as it is suspected some other valuables, besides the Platina, of which 4000 ounces have been taken out and sold, are hid. Platina is a metal of the colour of silver, and about one eighth heavier than gold. None has ever been seen in Europe, at least in any quantity, but in Spain where it is consigned to the Crown, from South America."--(_Times, Sept. 20, 1797._)
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