Part 1
OLD HOUSES IN HOLLAND
TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY SYDNEY R. JONES, WITH SOME ADDITIONAL PLATES IN COLOUR AFTER OTHER ARTISTS
Edited by Charles Holme.
MCMXIII "THE STUDIO" LTD. LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK
PREFATORY NOTE
The Editor desires to express his indebtedness to the following, who have rendered valuable assistance in the preparation of this volume: Mr. A. Pit, Director of the Nederlandsch Museum voor Geschiedenis en Kunst, and other officials of the Rijks Museum, Amsterdam; Messrs. P. C. J. A. Boeles and D. Draaisma, of the Friesch Museum, Leeuwarden; Dr. B. van Rijswijk, Secretary of the Vereeniging Oud-Dordrecht; Mr. W. Polman Kruseman, Secretary of the Zeeuwsch Genootschap der Wetenschappen, Middelburg; and the Directors of the British Museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum, the National Gallery, and the Wallace Collection, London.
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
After--
Pieter de Hooch "Interior of a Dutch House" Frontispiece ,, ,, ,, "Interior with Woman peeling Apples" Opposite page 16 ,, ,, ,, "Dutch Interior" ,, ,, 44 Johannes Vermeer "The Letter" ,, ,, 66 Catherine Bisschop-Swift "The Mirror" ,, ,, 80 Sydney R. Jones "Nijmegen, Gelderland" ,, ,, 98 Baron J. A. Hendrik Leys "Seventeenth-Century Dutch Interior" ,, ,, 130 Sydney R. Jones "Hindeloopen Room at the Frisian Museum, Leeuwarden" ,, ,, 140
Enamelled Earthenware Tiles (early 18th century) Opposite pages 136 & 138 Delft Dishes (18th century) ,, ,, 144 & 146
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Introduction 1
Illustrations:--
Breda, North Brabant 5 Monnikendam, North Holland 7 Veere, Zeeland 9 Nijmegen, Gelderland (dated 1544) 11 Dordrecht, South Holland 13 Leiden, Rhijnland (dated 1612) 15 Haarlem, North Holland 17 Brigdamme, Zeeland 18
I.--The Development of Domestic Architecture 19
Illustrations:--
Groningen (1509) 21 Boxmeer, North Brabant 22 Gorinchem (Gorcum), South Holland 23 Breda, North Brabant 24 Middelburg, Zeeland 25 Franeker, Friesland 26 Dordrecht, South Holland 27 Dordrecht (dated 1702) 28 Haarlem, North Holland 29 Spaarwoude, North Holland 30 St. Laurens, near Middelburg, Zeeland 31 Haarlem, North Holland 32 Alkmaar, North Holland (dated 1609) 33 Hoorn, North Holland (dated 1612) 34 Middelburg, Zeeland 35 Hoorn, North Holland 36 ,, ,, ,, 37 Woudrichem, North Brabant 38 Leiden, Rhijnland 39 Middelburg, Zeeland 40 Nijmegen, Gelderland (dated 1606) 41 Zutphen, Gelderland 42 ,, ,, (dated 1547) 43 Veere, Zeeland 44 Haarlem, North Holland 45 Delft, South Holland 46 Haarlem, North Holland (dated 1637) 47 Alkmaar, North Holland (dated 1673) 48 Franeker, Friesland (dated 1634) 49 Corbel from Dordrecht 50 Mosaic brick and stonework from Dordrecht 50 Dordrecht, South Holland (dated 1608) 51 Workum, Friesland (dated 1663) 52 Arnhem, Gelderland (dated 1642) 53 Amsterdam--Rembrandt's House (dated 1606) 54 Zwolle, Overijssel--The Guild Hall (dated 1571) 55 Vlissingen (Flushing), Zeeland (dated 1614) 56 Dordrecht, South Holland (dated 1626) 57 Kampen, Overijssel (dated 1631) 58 ,, ,, (dated on dormers 1634, 1626, 1730, 1630 and 1619) 59 Groningen--The "Goudkantoor" (dated 1635) 60 Groningen (1661) 61 Franeker, Friesland (dated 1662) 62 's Hertogenbosch, North Brabant (dated 1671) 63 Iron Wall-tie from Alkmaar 64 Alkmaar, North Holland (dated 1672) 65 's Gravenhage (The Hague), South Holland--"T'Goutsmits Keur Huijs" 66 Velsen, North Holland 67 Spaarwoude, North Holland 68 Zutphen, Gelderland 69 Halfweg, North Holland 70 ,, ,, ,, --showing construction of farmhouse 70 Spaarndam, North Holland 71 Schooten, North Holland 72 The Ferry House, near Gennep, North Brabant 73 Beek, Gelderland 74 Brigdamme, Zeeland (dated 1622) 75 Beek, Gelderland 76 Bloemendaal, North Holland 77 Broek, North Holland 78 ,, ,, ,, 79 Well at Beugen, North Brabant 80 Beek, Gelderland 81 Bridge at Zuiderwoude, North Holland (dated 1799) 82
II.--Exterior Features--Doors, Windows, Gables and Ornaments 83
Illustrations:--
Woudrichem, North Brabant (dated 1611) 85 Leeuwarden, Friesland 86 Delft, South Holland 87 ,, ,, ,, (dated 1547) 88 Haarlem, North Holland (dated 1632) 89 Leeuwarden, Friesland (dated 1675) 89 Leiden, Rhijnland (dated 1612) 89 ,, ,, (dated 1615) 90 Vlissingen (Flushing), Zeeland 91 Marssum, Friesland (dated 1713) 92 Kampen, Overijssel (dated 1665) 93 Arnhem, Gelderland 94 Wooden Door, with iron fittings, from Dordrecht 95 ,, ,, with carved lintel, from Haarlem 95 Leiden, Rhijnland (dated 1655) 96 Veere, Zeeland--The "Scotch House" 97 Wooden Window-frame, with iron fittings and lead glazing, from Dordrecht 98 Window Shutter from Velsen 98 ,, ,, ,, Nijmegen 99 ,, ,, ,, Leiden 99 ,, ,, ,, Dordrecht 99 ,, ,, ,, Haarlem 100 ,, ,, ,, Monnikendam 100 Zwolle, Overijssel 101 Kampen, Overijssel (dated 1626) 102 ,, ,, (dated 1634) 102 Marssum, Friesland 102 Gorinchem (Gorcum), South Holland (dated 1566) 103 Kampen, Overijssel 104 Vlissingen (Flushing), Zeeland 105 Monnikendam, North Holland 106 Haarlem, North Holland 106 Dordrecht, South Holland (dated 1523) 107 Arnhem, Gelderland 108 Haarlem, North Holland 109 Leiden, Rhijnland 109 Amsterdam, North Holland 110 Wood details from Gelderland and South Holland 111 Zutphen, Gelderland 112 Hoorn, North Holland 112 Franeker, Friesland (curved gables dated 1573) 113 Carved stone lettering from Haarlem 114 ,, ,, panel from Franeker 114 ,, ,, ,, ,, Zutphen (dated 1615) 115 ,, ,, ,, ,, Sneek 115 ,, ,, ,, ,, Haarlem 115 ,, ,, ,, ,, Workum 115 ,, ,, ,, ,, Middelburg (house dated 1590) 116 ,, ,, ,, ,, Haarlem 116 Woudrichem, North Brabant 117 Brick and Stone Mosaic from Zwolle 118 ,, ,, ,, ,, Nijmegen 118 ,, ,, ,, ,, Woudrichem 118 Zwolle, Overijssel (dated 1609) 119 Detail of Diaper-work from Franeker 120 Workum, Friesland 120 Iron Wall-ties 121 ,, Date-sign from St. Anna, near Nijmegen 122 ,, Wall-tie from Nijmegen 122 ,, Weather-vane from Broek 122 ,, Terminal from Middelburg 122 Lead Spout-heads from Zutphen 122 Oval Window with Stanchion-bar, from Leiden 122 Iron Wall-tie from Beugen 122 ,, Door-furniture from Middelburg 123 ,, Door-knocker 123 ,, Weather-vane from Hees 124 Lead Finials from Hoorn 124
III.--Interiors and Decoration 125
Illustrations:--
Brass Candelabrum from Haarlem 127 Seventeenth-century Room from Dordrecht, South Holland 128 ,, ,, ,, Leeuwarden, Friesland 129 Fireplace in the Bricklayers' Guild, Amsterdam 130 ,, from Maastricht, Limburg (dated 1510) 131 Cast-iron Fireback from Leiden 132 Cast-iron Fireback from Nijmegen 132 Fireplace from Middelburg, Zeeland 133 Cast-iron Fireback from Middelburg 134 ,, ,, ,, Jisp 134 Fireplace from The Westerwold, Groningen 135 Interior of a wooden house at Marken, North Holland 136 Brass Chimney-crane from Leeuwarden 136 Hindeloopen Room at the Frisian Museum, Leeuwarden 137 Carved Oak Panel from Zwolle (16th century) 138 Iron Hangers, Fire-irons and Fire-standard 139 Oak Panelling from Leiden 140 Hindeloopen Room at the Frisian Museum, Leeuwarden 141 Carved Door from Groningen (17th century) 142 Iron Lock-plate (16th century) 143 ,, ,, (dated 1587) 143 ,, Lock and Bolt 143 ,, Door-handle and Escutcheon 143 Carved Door of Wall-cupboard, with pierced and engraved iron fittings 143 Wall-cupboard with iron lock and hinges (16th century) 144 Carved Table from Edam 145 ,, Cabinet from Haarlem 145 Table from Amsterdam 146 Wrought-iron Stair-Railing from Zierikzee 146 Brass Warming-pan (dated 1602) 147 Wickerwork Coffer with brass mounts (18th century) 147 Brass Fire-side set (18th century) 147 ,, Candlestick ( ,, ,, ) 148 ,, Tea-caddy ( ,, ,, ) 148 ,, Pastille-burner 148 ,, Foot-warmer (dated 1733) 148 ,, Lantern (18th century) 148 Corridor in "St. Pietershofje," Hoorn, North Holland 149 Tiled Fireplace from Volendam, North Holland 150 ,, ,, ,, Marken, North Holland 151 Interior of a wooden house at Marken, North Holland 152
INTRODUCTION
It is in the old towns of Holland that the architectural expression of the Dutch people is to be sought. Theirs was an intimate and human architecture, concerned with everyday events, and it developed out of the civil and domestic life. Many of the towns continue to be busy and prosperous, and new buildings here and there crowd in upon the picturesque groups of houses that for centuries have clustered round the great churches and market-places: in others, the active days of commerce are over, the merchants come no more, and the streets and waterways are quiet. But all Dutch towns having any pretension to age possess, to a wonderful degree, what may be termed an old-world atmosphere. Much of their charm, it is true, is due to the rivers and canals that encircle and intersect them in all directions, imparting a sense of quaintness and novelty; but it is the extraordinary number of old buildings still existing, unchanged in form since the days when they were erected and mellowed by ages of sun and rain, that ever appeal to the eye and imagination. The fantastic gables and red roofs, above which rise slender spires and belfries surmounted by leaden flèches and wrought vanes, together with the waterways and canal life, the windmills, and changing skies, are as characteristic now as when the masters of the great Dutch School of painting were living and working. Such scenes were to them inspiration; to picture the intimate events associated was their delight. If the painters have gone--and with them the arquebusiers and governors and burgomasters--the gables, the sunlit courts, and many other familiar features remain.
The peculiar geographical conditions that have always existed in Holland have affected in no small degree the development of the land and the temperament of the people. Most of the country is below sea level. Behind the dunes and dykes the sea threatens inundation; the fear of accident by flood has kept the nation watchful and in perpetual war with its ancient enemy. The influence of this natural check has been far-reaching. It has produced the system of canals, determined the character of the landscape, made accordant life and work, method, regularity and order, and brought philosophy and fortitude to the national mind. In the domain of building, as in other spheres, water has been a powerful underlying agent affecting the evolution of style, just as the mountains, forests and deserts of other countries have imparted distinction to architecture.
Side by side with the external conditions imposed by Nature, conditions that, if accepted, might well be expected to have produced an attitude of extreme lack of initiative in those living amongst them, the Dutch have ever been an enterprising people. The same spirit that defied and conquered the inroads of the sea characterised their dealings in the domain of commerce. Trade was to them the great business of life. From very early times, and continuing for a long period, the prosperity of the Low Countries was foremost in Europe. The towns became centres of busy and pulsative life, the homes of virile civil and domestic communities. Many old buildings still existing, town halls, weigh houses, trade and guild halls, warehouses and merchants' premises, bear witness to those strenuous days. An architecture in close touch with the events of the times developed through, and by reason of the successes achieved by industry and sustained advances of conquest and colonization.
The phase of domestic art which is reviewed in this volume was essentially the expression of a nation urgently concerned with the material, matter-of-fact side of everyday life, and bore close kindred to its needs, its aspirations and its achievements; it was corporeal rather than spiritual in aspect, reflective of the market-place, the fireside and the home. And while the continuous building tradition of certain other countries was allied to ecclesiasticism, or was a movement instigated by the aristocracy, in Holland it was democratic in general trend, an art bound up in the interests of the people and existing for their good and welfare. It was urban rather than rural in its principles. Unlike the English growth, where the native building art developed vigorously and lingered longest in the countryside--as many an old village, manor-house or farm will demonstrate--the equivalent vernacular Dutch development was pre-eminently of the towns, and trade was the influence that gave it life. In a country notable for its manufactures and commercial activities men congregated together for mutual gain. A sturdy race they were, unimpressionable, but kindly and charitable, and their comfortable homes were in keeping with their temperament.
To better appreciate the course of architectural development, it will be well to briefly cite the main circumstances connected with these towns and with the country's history. Records of Dutch towns prior to the twelfth century are scanty, although at that time orderly government had begun to develop. Then followed the municipal charters, many dating from the thirteenth century. These charters were granted by the feudal lords to the townspeople and secured to them certain rights and protection in return for taxation and levies; justice was administered by various governing bodies and magistrates, and the municipal finances were properly supervised. There thus grew up a strong communal movement which was steadily developed and strengthened. Then it was that the cities began their era of great prosperity and each became practically self-governing and semi-independent. Revenue was derived from the river commerce and markets, over-sea trading, and from the industries which were fostered. So powerful did they become, so energetic was their municipal life, so well organised their trade, that these cities came to be reckoned, together with the neighbouring towns of Flanders, the most prosperous and wealthy in the world. As time went on the chief cities became members of the Hanseatic League, which influential association embraced trading colonies in places as far apart as London, Visby on the island of Gotland, Novgorod the Great in Russia, Hamburg, Amsterdam and Kampen on the Zuider Zee. Through the impetus of this remarkable movement, the long-continued commercial relations between England and Holland were established. About the middle of the thirteenth century Hanse merchants settled in London, obtained privileges from Henry III., founded the Steelyard, and there developed a flourishing trade. The intercourse between the two countries was very considerable, and it was of the utmost importance to the Netherlands that nothing should happen to weaken their good relations with England. For England was then the principal wool-producing country of Europe, the only place, in fact, able to supply it in large quantities, and the men of the Low Countries, famed above all for their skill as weavers and depending upon the woollen industry for their greatest wealth, were eager buyers of English wool in the raw state. In the fifteenth century, through dissension and war, the cities of Holland were ejected from the Hanseatic League; but the Dutch, with their fine ships and business acumen, continued to prosper and carried their conquests by trade into far-distant lands.