Notes taken during travels in Africa

Part 21

Chapter 214,187 wordsPublic domain

“As to the envy, like that of Wold Isheme[172] and others we have heard of, you know better than any one what money the Tibbib had. The truth of all the news will be known when the horsemen return from the Tajacanths. We will send it to you, and point out to you the spot or place where he (the Tibbib) was met, and the day he was murdered. His death would be first known at Tâfilêlt, from whence it would reach Fas, as many of the El Harib go to that city. We are far off, which is the cause of the intelligence being so long before it reached us. The station of the Tajacanths is twelve days’ journey from this place, and it is three months that no one has come to us from thence, except this news, which came from Yeisst. The money which he (the Tibbib) lent to Mohammed El Abd make yourself easy about it; the day the caravan returns, we will get repaid, and remit it to you.—Inshalla[173]—Salam.”

Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wad Nún, 1st day of Dual Caada, (answering the 7th inst.), received at Mogadore, 13th February, 1837.

“To Sidi Hadge Abibe, salám,[174] &c.

“As to what you write about the Tibbib John Davidson, the party of the Harib found (or met) him and killed him, plundering him of all his property, and that of Mohammed El Abd,[175] which he had with him of long-cloths and hamburgas. On the day they killed the Tibbib they seized his companion Abou, and swore to him by the most solemn oath, if he did not show and tell of the property belonging to the Christian, they would take his life, upon which he discovered and told them of everything, which they took and went away with; and the reason why I did not write to you before now, I had doubts of the truth.

“How comes it that you listen to the words of Wold Isheme, who writes to the Jew his friend, and tells him the Tibbib had deposited with us the sum you mention in your letter? why did you not answer Willshire on the point, as you saw the money he delivered over to Mohammed El Abd? God be praised, we are known not to be traitors, like Wold Isheme: however, if his companion Abou comes, he will relate all the news with his own mouth.

“Be informed we have written to the heads of the Tajacanths, Sidi Mohammed Dumanee, Sidi Mohammed Ben Annish, and Hamed Moolud,[176] to send persons like themselves to bring to us his companion Abou, from wherever he can be found; at all events, if he be alive, you will see him, Inshalla, and if dead, God’s will be done.

“The words you report, that we had arranged with the Harib to betray him (the Tibbib), such doings are not our ways, nor could we degrade ourselves to do so; everyone God will reckon with for the words he utters.

“For four days we neither ate nor drank, and have sworn by all that is sacred to be revenged. Whenever the Harib are to be found, in their tents or on the road, our tribe shall plunder and kill them.

“As regards the property of the Tibbib, if any articles remain in the hands of the Tajacanths, they will reach you. God knows how much we have grieved about him, but, God be praised, we did not leave anything undone for the safety of the Tibbib. We did not think the Harib would turn traitors to any person sent by us. This has been done by the traders of Tâfilêlt, who had bribed the Harib to kill him. God’s will be done: the facts will be known when the two horsemen return, whom we have despatched to Tajacanth, and which will be sent to you.—Peace.”

“_Mogadore, 14th February,_ 1837.

“SIR,—I had the melancholy duty, on the 1st instant, to make you acquainted with the distressing intelligence which had reached me regarding Mr. Davidson. I am grieved at heart to inform you that all the accounts I have received since confirm the melancholy tidings.

“The most circumstantial account I have heard, I derived from a Jew trader of the name of Jacob Ben Cohen, who arrived here from Draha on the 2d instant, and reported to me that Mr. Davidson had been robbed on the 29th or 30th of Shaban[177] (thirty-two or thirty-three days after Mr. Davidson started from Wadnoon), by the tribes of Idowlet and Ait Atta, in the district of Hameda, four days’ journey from Tatta, who, receiving from Mr. Davidson eight doubloons and one hundred dollars, and a loaded camel, allowed the party, consisting of eighteen persons, to proceed on their route towards Timbuctoo; Wold Hamdan[178] and Eborria, of Idowlet, and Wold Henna and Wold Aboo, of the tribe of Ait Atta,[179] he mentioned as the names of the robbers. My informant stated, that, eight or ten days after, a marauding party of 100 horsemen of the tribe of El Harib, who were returning from plundering a place called Bousbeyah,[180] met Mr. Davidson’s party a little to the south of Egueda, whom they immediately robbed, and shot Mr. Davidson, who received eight balls, and when dead, every one discharged their muskets at his body as a _meritorious act_. At _El Mehamdee_,[181] a town distant six days from Tatta,[182] where my informant was living, he saw in the possession of the Arabs and Jews various articles which had belonged to Mr. Davidson, which he described, and left no doubt on my mind as to his fate. Among the articles which he had seen, he named a silver watch, a pocket-compass, sword, three books, a box of medicines, Japan tea-caddy, beads, and cowries, all of which he _must have seen_, or he could not have described them so correctly as he did. My informant could not give a certain account of the fate of poor Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, but understood he had gone on with the caravan, in which he is partly borne out by the letter received from Sheik Beyrock yesterday.

“Other accounts state Mr. Davidson and party were travelling some distance in a parallel route, but rather behind the caravan, which was first met by the party of El Harib, who were disappointed not to find Mr. Davidson, _for whom they inquired_. The caravan was stopped; and afterwards Mr. Davidson came up, when he was instantly shot. Another report inclines me to believe the Harib at first appeared friendly, and afterwards seized an opportunity treacherously to murder him at a place called Sheh’ Keyah,[183] twenty days’ journey from Wadnoon, and about twenty-seven days distant from Timbuctoo.

“I have been much disappointed that the information received by the return of the courier I despatched to Wadnoon with letters to Sheik Beyrock is very meagre and inconclusive. In his letters no allusion is made to the robbery and murder of Mr. Davidson, as having occurred at different places, nor is the account of Jacob Ben Cohen supported in this point by any of the reports which have come to my knowledge, except the one received by my agent from his son at Morocco, which states that Mr. Davidson had been robbed, and afterwards allowed to proceed on his journey. I have no reason to suspect treachery on the part of Sheik Beyrock, although the reports set afloat by _Wold Isheme_ are intended to create such a suspicion. The falsity of the report that Mr. Davidson had deposited a large sum of money with the Sheik is evident.

“Considering there was a great probability Abou might have been taken by the tribe of El Harib, and detained as a slave, I directed the Sheik to procure his release, and to send him to me. By the answer he has returned, he appears to believe that Abou had gone on with the caravan, in which case there is not much likelihood of the horsemen despatched from the station of the Tajacanths overtaking it.

“I beg to acquaint you I have not yet determined upon what steps to take to collect further information, having only yesterday received the letters from Sheik Beyrock. It is my wish to despatch a Moor to proceed to Draha, to recover if possible everything belonging to Mr. Davidson; the great difficulty is to select a person well acquainted with the country, and in whom every confidence can be placed. I attach considerable value to the notes Mr. Davidson may have made on the route from Wadnoon up to the moment he met his untimely fate. I have in view a Moorish trader who has travelled in many parts of the Desert, and if I can come to an arrangement with him, I shall despatch him to Draha, with directions to proceed to the very spot; and everything I can do towards elucidating this melancholy affair, be assured, will be done. I mourn for my friend.

“I remain, &c.

(Signed) “W. WILLSHIRE.”

“P.S.—I have omitted to state, that by the report of Jacob Ben Cohen, Mr. Davidson met his fate on the 8th day of Ramadan,[184] answering to the 17th or 18th of December last. Sheh Keya, near the southern confines of the district of Eguedee,[185] sixteen days from Tatta, and ten days from Toudeyny.

“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”

“_Mogadore, March 7,_ 1837.

“The answer I have been looking so many days for from Sheik Beyrock, in reply to a long letter I wrote to him, only reached me this morning. In it he gives rather a different version from former reports. At Eguedee, on the 18th day of Ramadan, Mr. Davidson and a party of Tajacanths, twelve in number, were at a watering-place, when a party of seventeen of the tribe of El Harib came up. It is stated, more as a surmise than on certain information, that some of Mr. Davidson’s party having gone to drink, leaving their muskets behind, some of the Harib cut off the party thus divided, when two of them immediately shot Mr. Davidson, and plundered the camels, tearing and destroying all his books and papers. The Tajacanths, who were plundered, and afterwards, with Abou, allowed to proceed on their journey, and are gone on to Timbuctoo, do not appear to have offered any resistance. The Sheik recalls the assertion made in a former letter, that the traders of Tâfilêlt had bribed the Harib to waylay and murder Mr. Davidson.

(Signed) “WM. WILLSHIRE.”

“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”

“_Mogadore, March 14,_ 1837.

“SIR,—A trader of Wadnoon, named Sidi Ali Wold Ifkee, with whom Mr. Davidson was on intimate terms during his stay at that place, arrived two days from thence yesterday, called and gave me the following relation of the melancholy fate of that gentleman, which I believe can be depended upon, and is deserving of more credit than any other. The substance is as follows:—

“Mr. Davidson and party were first met by some of the tribes of Ilowbet and Ait Atta, who took from him some money, and allowed the party to proceed. The party reached Swekeya,[186] where they rested to wait for the caravan to come up. On the third day, a party of fifteen, or more, of the tribe of El Harib arrived at the resting-place, and after the usual salutations, inquired of Mohammed El Abd who he was travelling with? when he replied, a shereef, who was going to Gualata[187] on business. After some little conversation, the head of the party of El Harib requested Mohammed El Abd to show him the watering-place, who, leaving his musket behind, and the rest of the Harib _sitting down_, accompanied him over the sand-hills, and when out of sight, hearing a report of a musket, Mohammed El Abd asked what had been done, when the Harib replied, his party had shot the Christian; he complained bitterly, and said he would rather they had murdered him. It is stated, that when Mohammed El Abd went away, one of the Harib pretended to examine his gun, and seized the opportunity to take aim, and shot Mr. Davidson, who was sitting on the ground a short distance from the party, who immediately began to plunder and seize everything belonging to Mr. Davidson, allowing Mohammed El Abd to keep possession of what property belonged to him, obliging him first to make oath on the Koran. That the caravan was not met by the Harib, but has gone on to Timbuctoo, with which Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, travelled.

“Sidi Ali added, that he had reason to believe that the first robbers gave intelligence of Mr. Davidson’s route to the tribe of El Harib; and that had not Mr. Davidson stopped, he would have reached Toudeyny before they could have overtaken him.

“I am most sorry to observe, that I do not entertain a hope of receiving further or more correct particulars regarding the fate of Mr. Davidson than what I have communicated. He was aware of the perils and dangers of the journey; nothing could shake his determination, and his valuable life has paid the forfeit; but his name will be handed down to posterity, as one of the many victims who have nobly fallen in the cause of science.

“I am, &c.

(Signed) “WM. WILLSHIRE.”

“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”

[Extracted from the JOURNAL of the ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY of LONDON:—

pp. 100—110. Vol. 6th.]

* * * * *

“My name is Abú Bekr es siddík: my birth place is Tumbut. I was educated in the town of Jenneh (Genneh), and fully instructed in reading and construing the Koran,—but in the interpretation of it by the help of commentaries. This was [done] in the city of Ghónah, where there are many learned men [’ulemá], who are not natives of one place, but each of them, having quitted his own country, has come and settled there. The names of these sayyids who dwelt in the city of Ghónah were as follows:—’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájj; Mohammed Wataráwí; Mohammed al Mustafá; Fatík, the white [man] [al abyad]; Sheïkh ’Abdäl-kádir, Sankarí, from the land of Fútah Jálló; Ibráhim ibn Yúsuf, from the land of Fútah Tóró; Ibráhím ibn Abí-l Hásan, from Sillá by descent, but born at Járrah. These men used to meet together to hear the instructions of ’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír.

“My father’s name was Karah Músá, the Sherif,[188] Weteráwí, Tassír, _i.e._ of the royal family.[189] His brothers were named Idrís [Enoch], ’Abdu-r-rahmán, Mahmúd, and Abú Bekr. Their father’s name was Már,[190] al Káïd, O’mar ibn Sháhidu-l-muluk [son of the King’s witness or chief law officer] in the cities of Tumbut and Jenneh. He[191] was also called Ibn Abú Ibrahím (may his grave be visited!) was of this country. He was their father’s first-born, and for that reason my name was called by the name of his brother Bekr.

“After their father’s death, there was a dissention between them and their families, and they separated, and went into different countries of the blacks.[192] _Idrís_ went to _Járrah_, and married a daughter of Már, al-káïd Abú Bekr: her name was Ummuyu,—and he dwelt there. _’Abdu-r-rahmán_ travelled as far as _Kong_. He married the daughter of Abú Thaúmá ’Alí, lord of that country, and dwelt there. The name of his wife was Sárah. _Mahmúd_ [travelled] to the city of _Ghónah_, and settled there. His wife’s name was Zuhrá. _Abú Bekr_ remained at _Tumbut_ with the rest of the family.[193] He was not married at the time I left our country.

“Before all these things happened my father used to travel about [continually.] He went into the land of Kashinah and Bernú. There he married my mother, and then returned to Tumbut, to which place my mother followed him. It came to pass after this, that he remembered his brethren, repented on account of them, and wept bitterly. He then ordered his slaves to make ready for their departure with him [on a journey] to visit his brethren, [and see] whether they were in [good] health or not. They, therefore, obeyed their master’s orders, and did so; and went to the town of Jenneh, and from thence to Kong, and afterwards to Ghónah. There they abode and continued to serve their master, collecting much gold for him there. In that country much gold is found in the plains, banks of rivers, rocks, and stones. They break the stones, and grind them, and reduce them to dust. This is then put into vessels, and washed with water till the gold is all collected under the water in the vessels, and the dust lies above it. They then pour out this mud upon the ground, and the gold remains in the vessels; and they spread it out to dry. After that, they try it [on a touchstone], and make such things as they are able. For money or exchange they use shells, called al woda’,[194] gold and silver; they also barter goods for goods, according to the measure of their value.

“My father collected much gold in that country, and sent much to his father-in-law; together with horses, asses, mules, and very valuable silk garments brought from Misr, with much wealth, as a present to him. He was my mother’s father; his name was Al Háij Mohammed Tafsír, of the countries of Bernú and Kashínah, both inhabited by his family.

“After this my father fell ill of a fever, and died in the city of Ghónah. He was buried there, and his brothers went and made a great lamentation for him. At that time I was a child; I knew nothing of this, but all these things were told me by some of our old men. They [my father’s brothers] returned afterwards to their own dwellings, and Mahmúd [alone] was left in the city of Ghónah.

“My mother’s name was Nághódí, that is, in the Haúsá tongue; but her real name was Hafsah.[195] Her brothers were named ’Abd-allah Tafsír, As-sifá, Ya’kúb, Yahyà, Sa’ad, Hámid Bábá, Múmin, ’Othmán, and ’Abdu-lkerim. Her sisters were Habíbah, Fátimah, Maryam, and Maïmúnah. Their father was named Al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír, of the cities of Kashínah and Bernú. With respect to my mother, she was born in the city of Bernú. Her father, when he went to perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca], left her mother suckling her, on which account her name was called Nághódí.

“My brothers were named ’Omar, Sálih, Sa’íd, Músá Bábà, Múmin, ’Abd-allah, Suleïmán, Mustafá, Yúsuf, and ’Abdu-r-rahmán; but my mother’s side, Sálih only. My sisters were ’A’yishah, Aminah, Selímah, Hawái [Eve], and Keltum; but Aminah only on my mother’s side. These men and these women issued, all of them, from the stock of the Sheïkh ’Abdu-l-kádir, the sheríf, and their family name is Mór.

“About five years after my father’s death, I asked my instructor, who taught me the Koran, to go with me to the city of Ghónah to visit my father’s grave. He answered, ‘Yea, Abú Bekr assiddík, if it please God, I will do that thou dost desire.’ He then prepared himself, and sought for provision for the road; and he was followed by a large company of his disciples,[196] who bewailed him. We reached the city of Kong, and afterwards went on to the city of Ghónah; and abode there a long time, reckoning that country as our own. We found protection[197] in that country. Two years after our arrival in Ghónah, it entered into my teacher’s heart to set out on the pilgrimage; and while he was making diligent enquiries from people who were going to perform the pilgrimage, some men told him of the business of Mohammed Keshín and his brother ’Omar, and Adam, of the land of Buntukhú. He then began to make inquiries of the people of Buntukkú, and they told him that Omar and Mohammed Keshín had departed, and had left Adam behind; that he was not [now] going, but wished to go. My master made haste to seek for him in some of the towns, and left me in the city of Ghónah with my uncle Mahmúd.

“At this time we heard the news of the business of Adingharah, Sultán of Buntukkú, after the Sultán of Bandah, or Inkoransá, who was named Afwá, had been killed. They say Adinkarah wished to kill Kujóh, governor of Kolongzhwí, a town belonging to the Sultán of Ghónah. He wished to kill him, because of what happened between him and Dikkì, his deputy [who had been killed by Kujóh]. Adinkarah, therefore wished to put the latter to death by way of retaliation. Adinkarah, Sultán of Buntukkú, sent to Kujóh, requiring him to pay a great deal of gold as a ransom for his life,[198] and Kujóh sent what he required; but he refused to accept it, and said to Kujóh’s messenger, ‘Return to thy master, and say to him, “Unless thou increase it by 200 times as much, I will not accept it; but my sword shall take his head from off his neck; thou shalt die a swift death.” When this messenger came to his master, and told him these words, Kujóh stretched out his hand, took back the gold, and kept it; and likewise sent a messenger to the Sultán of Ghónah to tell him what had happened.

“Then was Adinkarah very wroth; and he ordered all his captains to gather all their soldiers together, and follow him to make war against Kujóh, and to kill him, that they might avenge the death of his servant Dikkí. When the Sultán of Ghónah heard that Adinkarah, Sultán to Buntukkú, and his army, had come against them to kill them, he and all his host, together with Kujóh, rose up to meet them, and marched against them as far as the town of Bolóh, choosing to attack them there; and there they fought from mid-day till evening. Then they separated, and returned to their own places. Seven days afterwards, they again gathered themselves together, and engaged in battle, at the town of Amvighóh. It was a hard fought battle, and many souls perished on that day. Thus did Adinkarah overcome the King of Ghónah, and take the town of Amvighóh. The people of Ghónah fled, and some of them passed on [as far as] to the city of Kong.

“On that day was I made a slave. They tore off my cloths, bound me with ropes, laid on me a heavy burden, and carried me to the town of Buntukkú, and from thence to the town of Kumásí, the King of Ashantí’s town. From thence through Askumá and Ajimmakúh, in the land of Fantí, to Daghóh, near the salt sea.

“There they sold me to the Christians, and I was bought by a certain captain of a ship of that town. He sent me to a boat, and delivered me to the people of the ship. We continued on board ship, at sea, for three months, and then came on shore in the land of Jamaica. This was the beginning of my slavery until this day. I tasted the bitterness of slavery from them,[199] and its oppressiveness; but praise be to God, under whose power are all things, He doth whatsoever he willeth! No one can turn aside that which he hath ordained, nor can any one withhold that which He hath given! As God Almighty himself hath said:—Nothing can befal us unless it be written for us (in his book)! He is our master: in God, therefore, let all the faithful put their trust!

“The faith of our families is the faith of Islám. They circumcise the foreskin; say the five prayers;[200] fast every year in the month of Ramadán; give alms as ordained in the law; marry [only] four free women—a fifth is forbidden to them except she be their slave; they fight for the faith of God; perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca]—_i.e._ such as are able so to do; eat the flesh of no beast but what they have slain for themselves; drink no wine—for whatever intoxicates is forbidden unto them; they do not keep company with those whose faith is contrary to theirs,—such as worshippers of idols, men who swear falsely by the name of the Lord, who dishonour their parents, commit murder or robbery, bear false witness, are covetous, proud, insolent, hypocrites, unclean in their discourse, or do any thing that is forbidden: they teach their children to read, and [instruct them in] the different parts of knowledge; their minds are perfect and blameless according to the measure of their faith.

“Verily I have erred and done wickedly, but I entreat God to guide my heart in the right path, for he knoweth what is in my heart, and whatever [can be pleaded] in my behalf.

“Finished in the month of August, on the 29th day, in the year of the Messiah

1834 [1835].”