Part 13

Sunday, July 17.—Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post arriving at the usual time: disappointed. Sent Abú to the market, who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I cannot manage the kuskusú. Received a present of six bunches of grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines; he had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess by Abú, together with three bunches of the grapes, to ask if she could make me a pie; for which there is no name in Arabic. I cannot go to the Leïlá myself, but have been promised something as near to Abú’s directions as she can make it. I would have done it at home, but Abú is a bad cook. As the grapes were very sour, I mashed up two bunches with milk and sugar, and fancied it gooseberry-fool; contrived, however, to make a meal of it; the only one I have had for many days. I intended to take a ride, but the heat was greater than I had ever felt. At two P.M. the thermometer in the sun was at 141°. It fell one degree at a quarter-past three P.M. and did not sink below 138° till half-past five P.M. I was obliged to cover the stirrups and _kummiyahs_,[115] and all metal articles, with pieces of háïk: the stirrups were too hot to be handled. The horses and cattle are all suffering; yet there is a strong wind from the N.W., but it is blowing fire. Mohammed tells me that on the E. of the mountains, which shut out this wind, it is impossible to face the hot wind. All here are astonished at my being able to stand it; there is no fear of me; I am living too low to take any harm. My fear is not that my stomach will go, but my head. Still no post. All are in anxiety. A cold current of air is passing over us. At nine P.M. the moon and stars are shooting with a peculiar glare, such as I have often witnessed here after great heat. At ten P.M. the heat returned, and nearly suffocated us. I dread the night—being half destroyed by the vermin. Am very anxious for to-morrow.

Monday, July 18.—Therm. 86°. Rose early and went out. There was more wind than yesterday. It feels cooler, but promises to be a hot day. Conceiving I might be mistaken, while reading “Hints on various Sciences,” p. 166, I took three thermometers, and suspended one six feet from the ground, but exposed to the air and sun, at the distance of six feet from the wall, into which a pole had been driven, from which it hung perpendicularly. At twelve this had reached to 115° Fahrenheit. I then laid a second on a mat, exposed to the sun; and this rose to 138°. The third I placed erect on the box of the thermometer, which rested on the sand, and was propped up by a piece of stick. This last rose to 126°. After they had been exposed about a quarter of an hour, the three gave the following results:—

+-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+ | | Hanging. | Standing. | Lying. | S[116]| +-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+ | At One | 119° | 126° | 143° | | | Two | 119 | 124 | 139 | 109° | | Three | 121 | 131 | 139 | 110 | | Five | 120 | 121 | 126 | 107 | +-----------+----------+-----------+--------+--------+

At half-past five, the wind freshened again. During the whole of this period the wind was very strong from N.W. to N.N.W., and carried a cambric handkerchief, in which was placed a stone of one pound, at the rate of four knots an hour. The Arabs, who took the greatest interest in any thing that I was doing, wanted to know what I was about, and whether it had any reference to the country. As I always had a story ready to excite their wonder or a laugh, I told them that I expected a letter from England, and I was endeavouring to ascertain how fast the ship was sailing; that the little glasses were to tell me the heat of the sun, and the handkerchief the force of the wind; that if when the sun was so hot, the wind had a certain power; I knew how much greater would be the power of the wind, when the sun was less hot; and by the velocity of the wind, I could tell the rate of the ship’s sailing; the sun and the wind being enemies to each other. Upon this they cried out “Tayyabek Allah:” after this came the usual finale, by my taking some fire from the sun by the burning glass; and what astonished them more than any thing else, was that they could do it themselves as well as I could. At five P.M. I received my grape-pie from the Jewess; but it was a sad failure, as it was the third day in which I had gone without a dinner. It is now evident the post has been stopped on purpose. I am in a nest of villains, and know not how to extricate myself. The heat continued of the most distressing kind: at midnight the thermometer was 100°.

Tuesday, July 19.—Therm. 95°. The heat is beyond endurance. No sleep. All are lying down and panting. The long-wished-for post has at last arrived: and this morning every thing was settled for our starting without fail on September 15. All travelling now is quite impossible, as the camels are dying on the route from the north, in consequence of the heat, which is greater than usual. Every body is suffering, and yet they say it is cool here, compared with the temperature on the south side of the mountains. I have nothing on, but what decency requires. The consumption of water is immense.

Wednesday, July 20.—Therm. 95°. The heat is terrific. No sleep, no rest. The stream that passes the Sheïkh’s garden was this morning at 75°. Mashaba (Majíbí) and his gang left us at three P.M. Went out a little this afternoon, as I felt poorly, and procured some eggs from the Arabs in the tents, but many of them were rotten. I have now had no food for a week. Would give a dollar for a draught of beer. Thirst distressing, and am pouring with perspiration. The walls of the house are cracking with the heat and the ground is distressing to the feet. Wrote to Mr. Willshire. The Damánís are preparing to start to-morrow.

Thursday, July 21.—Therm. 95°. This morning I exposed about a quart of water in a tea-kettle, on the roof of the house, to the action of the sun. The water was brought from a small rill that passes the Sheïkh’s garden, and was 75° when about fifty yards from the spring. At twelve the water in the kettle had risen to 112°; at three P.M. it was taken away to be used as hot water; this happened a few minutes before I got up to try its temperature. The heat decreased much towards the evening. Have been very poorly all day, and must have recourse to a blue pill at night.

Friday, July 22.—Therm. 82°, and has been lower. This sudden fall of 15° has been felt severely. At no period has the glass reached within 15° of what it was yesterday. It has made me quite ill, and unable to go out to a fantasía in the afternoon. A káfilah is now preparing for Suweïrah.

Saturday, July 23.—Therm. 83°. There was a heavy mist early this morning. Thank God, the heat is lessened. The trees and fruit were parched up by the heat of the three last days. The cattle are dying in the roads, and the very slaves suffering. Feel very poorly; and have now starved for a week, and been obliged to go often to the medicine-chest. Had to send to the Jews for brandy to keep me up. I am expecting some fruit to-morrow, and hope to get a fowl also, and make some broth. Obliged to shut up books.

Sunday, July 24.—Therm. 85°. The weather fine and pleasant, and the house quiet. Read the prayers. Received a present of two fine quinces, called here ................ Their flavour is exceedingly fine; they came from Tamazert; those that are grown here are not near ripe; the others have a thin yellow rind, and their flavour is like that of ripe raspberries. Being far from well, I did not leave the house. Abú went to market, and bought some eggs, and dispatched Seulïmán to Tamazert to buy more, together with half-a-dozen of fowls; the latter being very dear here, about threepence each. I have agreed to purchase a cow in partnership with Seulïmán, whose child is sick, and wants more milk, &c., than he can get. I am to be supplied with fresh butter every day. The cost of the animal, which has just had a calf, is ten mitcals, about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore subject for the Sheïkh,[117] who has had a quarrel with his women, and they will not supply me. I really pity the man.

Monday, July 25.—Therm. 86°. Felt a little better; but as I was still poorly, kept to the house. No incident.

Tuesday, July 26.—Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a large arrival from Bamara. Felt very poorly to-day; these sudden changes almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a little. Complained strongly to the Sheïkh.

Wednesday, July 27.—Therm. 80°. Health improving. There was an addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a new dish to-day; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had no appetite.

Thursday, July 28.—Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the house. In the evening a party from Taghakánth brought intelligence of the war still raging.

Friday, July 29.—Therm. 77°. Day fine; went out a little: am much better, thank God.

Saturday, July 30.—Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very pleasant. Went out a little this morning: towards the middle of the day the heat returned with great power. A simúm is blowing in the desert; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly obscured. I tried the water again to-day: a quart was exposed from one to three P.M. in a tea-pot, on the top of the house; it rose to 112°; at four P.M. it had reached 125°, when it came into service, being half-boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint of the Jews’ brandy, having a very cholera-feel.

Sunday, July 31.—Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the afternoon we felt the simúm again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme.

Monday, Aug. 1.—Therm. 86°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible; the cattle exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post, which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening.

Tuesday, Aug. 2.—Therm. 80°. Very poorly, and kept to the house.

Wednesday, Aug. 3.—Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strong breeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three last nights we have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been driven in from the Sahrá. Felt a little better to-day, and went out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to ripen; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their appearance. Gave Abú a lesson in medicine; made him number the bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself, and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post, which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched to look after the postman.

Thursday, Aug. 4.—Therm. 76°. A high wind, with dust, which nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post, and all in anxiety.

Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí, has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.

Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case is to be heard to-morrow.

Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire, like this paying before hand. Had a large party at breakfast; there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on, brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah, unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe: these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.

Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again, and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night; but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118] nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning to be myself again.

Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí ’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and would not take a credit for the one thousand. My good opinion of the Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt done up again by this business.

Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer, and found that it stood

At 10 A.M. in the shade 80° in the sun 110°. — 12 M. 82° 124°. — 2 P.M. 82° 120°. — 6 76° 85°. — 10 in doors 75° out of doors 70°.

I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.

Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many Jinns[119] about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader, where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor; that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant, who was the father of the boy, to be greatly distressed for the want of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road, which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.

Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for looking at it.

Saturday, Aug. 13.—Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sídí Salám, and threatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little, but made myself ill again.

Sunday, Aug. 14.—Therm. 63°. It feels quite cold; I have taken to clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Múlíd at Muwah, which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from the desert, which nearly blinded us: at five P.M. the glare was so vivid as to distress the eyes; one could see the doors of the houses, and the faces of all the people in the Sók. It had also the effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons; we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were some miles distant: it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster, the Rabbi, to take leave; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch, although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheïkh is not yet returned.

Monday, Aug. 15.—Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large káfilah is starting for Suweïrah. The Sheïkh is to come back this evening. I am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people, and partly by way of medicine.

Tuesday, Aug. 16.—Therm. 72°. This was rather an interesting morning. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahrá, came for the Mazkát Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley, only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose occupation as guides to the káfilahs prevent them from tilling the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry and capital of the English farmer; but is a tenth of the actual increase—in the scriptural meaning. The seed-corn is deducted, together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers, and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents were brought for the Sheïkh, who I could see, gave grudgingly, and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any thing. I had a great row with Sheïkh Hammód, and nearly came to blows. This fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very anxious to hear again from Suweïrah; had Kádí ’Alí been here, I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of swearing faith to the Sheïkh, and of protection to the káfilahs to and from Wad Nún. Portions of the Koran were read; the Ahdah[120] taken, and faith pledged, accompanied by the ceremony of stepping over a stone. I have frightened the Sheïkh, and I hope to some purpose: but matters are hard to arrange.

Wednesday, Aug. 17.—Therm. 74. These Arabs of the Sahrá are certainly the men in Belzoni’s tomb, with their curls standing out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads; none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik); some a cord; but the generality are content with their thick woolly curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle dog. They are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large wolves were killed this morning. We are looking out for the post. The wind is high, but with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of a return of the heat. At eleven A.M. it blew a perfect hurricane. The Simúm[121] felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-five degrees. The heat was terribly oppressive; we all felt it, and the people were lying about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till one P.M. and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheïkh says there will be two or three such days: that we are lucky in not having started; but that the weather will then become settled. This is the approach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making a complaint; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms, I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past two P.M. the hurricane returned; when the whole air was loaded with dust that made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred and twenty-one degrees, and at three P.M. one hundred and twenty-six degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E.S.E. This has been a thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the Jew’s to-morrow with the Sheïkh. A great change has taken place: I have frightened these people in right earnest, and I am determined to keep the vantage ground.

Thursday, Aug. 18.—Therm. 86°. Very hot outside the door. Went to the Millah with the Sheïkh to breakfast, at the chief Jew’s, Soleïmán. Every thing was very good, indeed, of a rather superior kind: but what a place to live in! We went on foot, the Sheïkh carrying a loaded pistol in one hand, and with the other on his kummiyah.[122] After eating for two hours, the Muselmán party went home to sleep. I remained with the sons and daughters of Israel, who had come to the Millah, which is seldom honoured by a visit from the Sheïkh, and still less frequently to eat there. The Jew’s wife is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen: she is much respected, and possesses some property of her own. The Rabbi, at my request, read the first five chapters of Genesis, and then a portion of Exodus. I hoped to find some other books; but there were only _Sepher Kodesh_.[123] Returned home, and found a great change for the better in the establishment. The heat was excessive: the thermometer at 101° in the colonnade. The moon looked pale and sickly. At midnight the thermometer stood at 101°: every body was fainting from the oppressiveness of the heat.