Part 10

Sunday, May 15.—Therm. 76°. Had a long conversation with Zeïn, who was at Tumbuktú when Major Laing was killed.[100] It appears that Hámed Libbú gave all the protection he could; but that the Sheïkh, to whose care the Major was entrusted, expected to gain a large plunder by his destruction. Zeïn had seen also Caillié[101] several times during his stay there. Things have now changed. The government is now Fulání. Hámed Libbú killed four thousand of the Tawáriks in one day, and has quite reduced that tribe to subjection. These marauders are, however, still in force between Tumbuktú and Sakatú. A large portion of the former place, inhabited by the Tawáriks, has been burnt down. Zeïn tells me there is no chance of my getting to Sakatú. The Wád and the river are both beset by the Tawáriks. The distance by land is forty days to Jennah, which is distant from Tumbuktú eight days; from thence to Sansanding and Ségó four or five days; and from thence twenty days to the source of the river. To Kóng he did not know how long the journey was; but it is very distressing, and is all performed on foot. Read the prayers. Day very hot towards noon. There is a little quiet to-day, as all the people are out at the Sók; which has been but badly attended, as there is no arrival from Suweïrah, and the káfilah will not be here for some days. Walked out and looked at Wesnúnah, which is about six miles south, and to As-sérir about four east. The Sheïkh has about forty villages, containing a population, they say, of twenty-five thousand. My spirits are much depressed to-day. My position is truly miserable: I am bored to death, and obliged to submit, through the fear of making enemies amongst savages. I have scarcely a book to while away the time, and no means of improving myself, or getting information from others. I have at last learnt the name of the river; it is the Bontkonman, or, as some call it, Buatkuman: it is called also Mulasar. The large river that is laid down in the maps, as the Akassa, runs nearly due east and west, flowing through the south of Wád Nún to the sea. The river here comes from Eít-Bamáran, and runs towards the mountains east, and is lost in the sand. At present there are only a few patches of water, the stream having failed to a mere dropping spring, which the Arab tribes consume. I have been much amused with the Arab ladies; their frankness is quite extraordinary. I shall give away about twenty dollars to them, as soon as I arrive at Sídí el Rasí: it will be money well laid out. Had a very pleasant hour with the Sheïkh, giving him a description of the battle of Waterloo: he said the joy here was universal, when they heard that the French had been beaten; for they are detested in these parts. He said that the price of ostrich feathers had declined terribly; the very same quantity which could once fetch twenty and thirty mithkáls, could now be bought for three or four.

Monday, May 16.—Therm. 72°. The day beautiful; all have been busily occupied for some days past in carrying the corn; the crops are very heavy; they are now treading it out; camels, horses, mules, donkeys, and boys, are all employed indiscriminately. I am feeling severely the effect of hunger: I have now been two days without food, except some bad bread and eggs. If these people think I am going to beg for every thing, they will find themselves mistaken. I shall wait two hours longer, and then send Abú to see if any thing is to be bought. I had ordered some food yesterday, but I could not get it cooked. To-day I have received a present of meat, and the Sheïkh has asked me to drink tea with the party. I am afraid, however, of being too much with these people. Three-fourths of the whole population have been inoculated in the left ankle for the small-pox: how they will manage at the large Sók, I know not. I have been here nearly a month, and there has not been a single death; this, in so large a population, speaks much in favour of the healthiness of the spot. I am anxious for the Sók to take place; for I shall then know how long I am to stay here.

Tuesday, May 17.—Therm. 72°. Weather close, and air heavy, and feels very sirocco-ish. A host of people are under a course of physic. The Sheïkh’s sons have taken up their position in the garden for the day. Received letters from Mr. Willshire, and some for the Sheïkh, which I hope will decide the question. I have been here a month all but two days. Preparations are making for the Sók.

Wednesday, May 18.—Therm. °. The heat is coming on with great power. Some of the Damání have arrived from Tagakánth, and the Súdán caravan is expected to-morrow. I walked out to the four hills leading to the sea. Mashulí is gone to the Sók at Tinzí. From Wád Nún to As-serír three hours; to Tergezít one day; to Tínzert one day; to Oúfren two short days; to Tazerwelt, the residence of Sídí Hasan, two days; to Tinzí three or four days. This line is often taken from hence to the desert. Visited all the gardens to-day; but there is not a single vegetable cultivated here, with the exception of a few onions; fruits, however, such as grapes, figs, dates, pomegranates, and prickly pears, are in abundance. In some of the gardens I found one or two apple-trees: but they never wait for the fruit to ripen. The Sheïkh is rather fidgety, but has said nothing.

Thursday, May 19.—Therm. 76°. It was very cold during the night, notwithstanding the doors that have been put to my room. There is an evident change for the better in our treatment: but I am more anxious about a change of place, and the permission to let us be moving to the south. Something was said, but not to me, of our going in about a month. The Sheïkh has evidently something on his mind, but is afraid to speak out. He is an extraordinary person; I have never seen such a combination of opposites in any individual: at one time proud, arrogant, austere, despotic, and occasionally savage; he then changes his character, and becomes low and grovelling, or else full of kindness, frank and open-hearted: now severely punishing his slaves, and now taking the meanest and dirtiest to his arms, passing at once from finery to filth. Although he thinks nothing of cooking three or four sheep a-day, yet he will ask for the refuse of my tobacco-leaves to fill his own pipe. He is much led by others, and in constant fear about his money. He has a numerous family, four wives, forty female slaves, and hosts of children in all the tents, as he is an universal lover. The wretched state of many of his children is beyond all belief; they are covered with filth and vermin, and clothed in rags. His hoards of treasure must be very great; and as much of it is buried, it will be lost, perhaps for ever, should the owner die without disclosing the place of concealment. The people are all in a great bustle, preparing for the Sók. The place has great capabilities, and would yield, were the people of industrious habits, an immense revenue; but all are afraid of each other. I am now so changed in appearance, that I hardly know myself. I cannot master the language. The electrical horse has lost its power since its arrival here. There is a Sók to-day at Tinzí, from whence the people come here: none are more anxious for it than I am, and none will be more pleased at returning home than I shall be at going on. I have at last resolved, if a delay of more than a month is proposed, to retrace my steps to Fez, and start afresh _In-shá-llah_! I have written my journal up to noon; at which period all were looking out for the káfilah. At two P.M., eight camels and twenty individuals of the Damání tribe arrived here from Súdán, bringing with them gold, cloths, and twenty slaves, whose looks were savage in the extreme: they had a profusion of long black hair, and were half naked; their lips were remarkably thin, and their teeth looked like ivory; both themselves and their animals looked sadly haggard, and the whole affair tended rather to throw a damp upon my feelings and future movements. I have now told the Sheïkh that I would take no further excuse: he painted in strong colours the dangers and privations I must suffer, if I started except with a káfilah; but as none will move for four months, I determined to commit myself to the care of Providence, and take merely my guides, our guns and pistols being our escort, and not to take the road by Taudení and ’Arrawán, but to strike at once across the desert, and make for our point. Only one man is said to know the track, and I am to have him. All will be settled to-morrow, and I shall start one way or the other, after the Sók. News has been brought of the defeat of the Felláṭehs by the people of Bambárah, and that Hámed Libbú has come down to Hamdu-li-llah, which is about 250 miles south of Tumbuktú.

Friday, May 20.—Therm. 65°. It feels very cold, with a strong wind from the N.W., and heavy clouds. News has been brought by a second party, that the crops in Súdán have failed; that the Tawáriks have assembled on the east of Tumbuktú, and that most of the inhabitants have quitted the city, partly through fear, and partly to seek subsistence elsewhere. This morning we have heard more bad news: the Fulání are said to have been again beaten, with immense loss: some of the female captives have been brought to the Sheïkh; four as a present: they look well, and are well dressed, and do not seem to have suffered as much by the journey as their inhuman traffickers. This is a trying scene for poor Abú, as most of the captives are from the neighbourhood of the place where his family reside. The expedition for the slave-market has not been so fortunate, although the war has furnished an immense number for the people of Bambárah. My heart sickens at the sight of this horrid practice. In another lot of these unfortunate beings were six women, one of whom had given birth to a child on the road, which was thrown into the bargain. There was an old wretch who had come from Suweïrah to purchase female slaves: his examination was carried on in the most disgusting manner. I could not refrain from calling down the curse of Heaven on these inhuman wretches: in many but little feeling is shewn for the poor blacks; and they seemed to think less of their own fate than I did, who was merely a looker-on. One poor creature, however, who was a finer woman and less black than the rest, shed tears: I could have given her my dagger to have plunged it in the breast of the villain who was examining her: and yet these people pray four times a day, and think themselves superior to all God’s creatures. More than ever do I wish to get away from this den of hell-hounds. Each of the grown persons were in the prime of life, and had once possessed a home, and were more to be pitied than the children, who had never known the liberty of thought and act. To each of the ten slaves was given a lunch of bread; while both the inhuman buyers and sellers, after chuckling over their bargains, went to offer up their prayers to Heaven, before they took their daily meal. Can such unhallowed doings be permitted to endure longer? Oh! spirit of civilization, hither turn your eyes, and punish the purchasers, who ought to know better; for thus only will the sale be stopt. At length something has been settled definitively with the Sheïkh: I am not to wait for the káfilah, but to proceed with a few camels and five guides, the whole of whom I am to pay for; and we are to take the courier’s track, by which we shall reach Tumbuktú in forty days from starting. I am to leave this place ten days after the Sók. So far so good.

Saturday, May 21.—Therm. 66°. Wind still very strong. Parties are coming in for the Sók. Another small portion of the káfilah has arrived: the main body is expected here on Monday. Walked the entire circuit of the town, and visited the burial-ground, which is the prettiest I have seen in this country. Most of the graves are planted with flowers, and all are kept in good order. The tomb of Sídí El Kádí is very neat. Coming round by the gardens, I met some of the Damánís, who are anxious to take me on. Had a visit from a Sheïkh, who has just returned from Tumbuktú, where he has resided many years: he has been two months on the road, his camel being a weak one. Feel in much better spirits to-day.

Sunday, May 22.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Read the prayers, and kept the house till three P.M. Another arrival from Tumbuktú: they were two persons of consequence upon white camels, and four others on their eshreb el ríhhs;[102] all were in good condition. They say that the káfilah will be here to-morrow. I am half-famished.

Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day, that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves, and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór, which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly after sun-set to-morrow.

Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged, and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. All here are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and then with another, and heard from both the same story about their gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual not personally interested in it.

Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants: the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting: here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house, which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.

Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the number of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue, as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows, who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me that many a hand was on the _kummiyah_.[103] So much for the great Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The Sók is considered a poor one.

The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here, and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up, and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts[104] were very numerous; one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of money from the gazing fools.

Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river, where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing; came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°, or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.

Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan, the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh, complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without government, laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may, and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints: the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.

Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits, and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep, and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied, and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún: their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends, and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.

Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin, and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair; and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.