West Indies -- Description and travel

Notes on the West Indies, vol. 1 of 2

_Visit to the encampment near Southampton. Reflections upon the occasion. Discouraging remarks of the spectators. Author’s probable destination. Policy of yielding to passing occurrences. Frivolity of the French character:—contrasted with the gloomy dispositions of the English_ 5

Chapters

1. LETTER I.

2. LETTER II.

_Visit to the encampment near Southampton. Reflections upon the occasion. Discouraging remarks of the spectators. Author’s probable destination. Policy of yielding to passing oc...

3. LETTER III.

4. LETTER V.

5. LETTER VI.

6. LETTER VII.

7. LETTER VIII.

_Author detained at Spithead. The convoy dispersed by a tremendous gale:—returns to Spithead. Many ships lost. The “Stanley” transport, with troops, supposed to be of the number...

8. LETTER IX.

_The Ulysses destined to proceed, with troops, to the West Indies. Author and comrades separated. Dr. Master and the author appointed to embark on board the Lord Sheffield. Furt...

9. LETTER X.

_Author’s perilous passage to the Mother-bank. His reception on board the Diana frigate. Hospitality of Lieutenant Davy, and the other officers. Author proceeds to the Lord Shef...

10. LETTER XI.

11. LETTER XII.

_Lord Sheffield at sea. Grand spectacle formed by the sailing of the convoy. Alternate hopes and apprehensions. Ceremony of fixing the “dead-lights” at sea. Fleet collected and...

12. LETTER XIII.

_Author still at sea. Cruel succession of storms. Contrast between the effects of a gale on the minds of landsmen and of sailors. Sang froid of the steward. Description of a cab...

13. LETTER XIV.

_Arrival of the Lord Sheffield in Carlisle Bay. Improved sailing towards the conclusion of the voyage. Trade-wind welcomed. Advantages of bathing in a tropical climate. “Prickly...

14. LETTER XV.

_Process of cleaning and ornamenting the ship at sea. Every sailor’s vessel “the best in the world.” Ceremony at crossing the tropic. Porpoises. Mode of catching sharks. Descrip...

15. LETTER XVI.

_Anxiety for news. French privateering. St. Vincent saved from the Charibs. Happy feeling on going on shore. Visit to a North American slave-ship. Situation of the slaves. Visit...

16. LETTER XVII.

17. LETTER XVIII.

18. LETTER XIX.

19. LETTER XX.

_Author’s introduction to the principal inhabitants of Barbadoes. Visit of an European party at Dr. Hinde’s. Views of the country. Inspection of the sugar and distilling houses....

20. LETTER XXI.

_Visit to Col. Williams’s. Nature of the soil near Bridge-town. Picturesque scenery of the part of the island called Scotland. A boiling spring. Natural separation of petroleum....

21. LETTER XXII.

22. LETTER XXIII.

_A marooning expedition. Visit to “Harrison’s Cave.” “Joe’s River” Estate. Hospitalities at the “Bay-house.” Description of the “Animal flower.” “Hackleton’s Cliff.” Visit at th...

23. LETTER XXIV.

_The convoy still absent. Unpleasant tidings from Grenada. A French negro corps. State of the weather. Temporary hospitals, and preparations for the sick at St. Anne’s Hill. App...

24. LETTER XXV.

_State of the healing art at Barbadoes: ignorance of some of its practitioners: qualifications necessary in a tropical climate: apathy respecting illiterate pretenders. Descript...

25. LETTER XXVI.

26. LETTER XXVII.

_Visit to the Senate-house. Proceedings of the General Assembly of the island. Dinner-party on board the Lord Sheffield. Escape of a prisoner from Guadaloupe. Victor Hugues. Pre...

27. LETTER XXVIII.

_Arrival of a packet from England. Eagerness to ascertain the news. Ordinary comforts improved by absence and privations. Forlorn state of the expedition. Unfavorable reports fr...

28. LETTER XXIX.

29. LETTER XXX.

_Author waits on the Commander in Chief. Voyage to St. Domingo postponed. Author hitherto unaffected by climate. Proposed tontine. Physicians of the St. Domingo staff placed on...

30. LETTER XXXI.

31. LETTER XXXII.

_Arrival of the body of the Cork fleet. Acuteness of sailors in observing distant objects. Effects of a tropical climate on the human system:—Brunonian illustration. Influence o...

32. LETTER XXXIII.

33. LETTER XXXIV.

_General observations concerning Barbadoes. Its importance, in the opinion of its inhabitants. Its ample supply of stock. Languid pronunciation of the Creoles. First party of sl...

34. LETTER XXXV.

35. LETTER XXXVI.

_Author detached on secret service. Embarks on board the Grenada transport. Crowded state of the ship. Means used to prevent disease. Strength of the expedition. It passes to th...

36. LETTER XXXVII.

37. LETTER XXXVIII.

_The troops proceed on shore. Vexatious delays and disappointments. Capitulation of Fort William Frederic. Sickness of the troops. Influence of martial preparations upon the sol...

38. LETTER XXXIX.

_Expedition against Berbische. Scarcity of animal provisions. Zeal of an infuriated republican. Healthy appearance of the colonists. Refutation of the alleged insalubrity of Gui...

39. LETTER XL.

_Barbadoes the “London” of the windward colonies. Admiral Christian’s arrival. Wet season at Stabroek. Negroes employed to cut grass for sale. Cruel punishment of a slave. Visit...

40. LETTER XLI.

_Capitulation of Berbische. Intended negro corps. Critical situation of the colony. Scarcity of animal provisions. Liberality of colonists to the sick. Description of a regular...

41. LETTER XLII.

_Author remains in Guiana. General Whyte considerate towards the sick—Colonel Hislop likewise. Military Hospital at La Bourgade. Singular request of a colonial lady. Account of...

42. LETTER XLIII.

_Accommodations of the medical officers. Visit from a naval party. Attempts to procure animal provisions. Hospitality of Capt. Dougan. Author’s rest at La Bourgade undisturbed b...

43. LETTER XLIV.

44. LETTER XLVI.

_Situation of Fort St. Andrew. Town of New Amsterdam. State of the colony. Accommodations for the sick. Author joins the mess of the 93d regiment. Excellent discipline maintaine...

45. LETTER XLVII.

_A Dutch sale of slaves:—a gala-day for the colonists. Affecting conduct of a negro about to be separated from his wife. A party of Indians. People from the woods employed to fe...

46. LETTER XLVIII.

47. LETTER XLIX.

_Surrender of St. Lucie. Sudden effect of a coup de soleil. Rapid fatality in a case of yellow fever. Alligators at Fort St. Andrew. Fête of the slaves at Government-house. Bacc...

48. LETTER L.

49. LETTER LI.

_Marooning excursion continued. The party receive intelligence concerning their route from Mr. Schneider. Plantation “Vigilantie.” Severe labour supported by the slaves. Their m...

50. LETTER LII.

_Mynheer and Madame Scholten. Town of Old Amsterdam. Visit to the dwellings of a party of Indians—and of manumitted negro women. Dutch example of the united profession of surgeo...

51. LETTER LIII.

_Journey over-land to Arends. Pleasing echo in the woods. Apprehensions on account of the Bush-negroes. Picturesque appearance of the travelling party and their slaves. Hospital...

52. LETTER LIV.

_Occupations of the morning at Mr. Heynemann’s. Indians termed Bucks and Buckeen. Description of their common bow and arrow, and the poisoned arrow. Account of the poison. Journ...

53. LETTER LV.

_Visit to an Indian town. Nonchalance of the inhabitants. The Laba. Parental feeling of an Indian woman. Fate of a youthful Indian lover. Habits of the Indians. Construction of...

54. LETTER LVI.

_Generous attention of Mynheer Heynemann: his duty as post-holder—his character—elected a chief among the Indians. General account of the native inhabitants of Guiana:—contraste...

55. LETTER LVII.

_Indian practice of eradicating hair from the person. Indolence and apathy of the people of the forest:—method observed in their intoxication:—arbitrary and despotic towards the...

56. LETTER LVIII.

_The party continue their journey down the river. Friendly attention of Mynheer Abbensets. Habit of smoking. Annoyance from musquitoes. Return to New Amsterdam. Retrospect of th...

57. LETTER I.

The happiness we enjoy by corresponding with those whom we esteem, when separated from them, beyond the reach of personal intercourse, ranks amongst the highest blessings of civ...

58. LETTER II.

If you were a stranger to Southampton, I might offer you many full pages upon its delightful situation, and the many charms of its environs; for it cannot be disputed that this...

59. LETTER III.

Since writing to you my last letter we have received orders to repair on board the Ulysses, and proceed to Cork to join the St. Domingo division of the expedition, under the com...

60. LETTER IV.

Some troops were embarked on the 27th inst. from this place. The weather was rough and unfavorable. Such indeed has it, constantly, been, since our arrival—always stormy, and, a...

61. LETTER V.

Out of evil, it is said, sometimes springeth good: and I feel assured that you will agree with me, in considering the adage verified, when I tell you, that the repeated delays t...

62. LETTER VI.

Greetings from the Ulysses! Our suspense is, at length, relieved. The day after I last wrote to you, our long-looked-for Ulysses arrived, with a fleet from the Downs, and yester...

63. LETTER VII.

The long-expected day is at length arrived: the signal of departure being given, all the ships of the Leeward Island division weighed anchor this morning, and put to sea under a...

64. LETTER VIII.

When, in my last, I mentioned to you the splendid sight we had witnessed, in the departure of an important division of our great expedition, I did not anticipate the painful rev...

65. LETTER IX.

The uncertainty of the law has established itself into an adage: but I begin to suspect that, proverbial as it is, it must yield to the greater incertitude of military service....

66. LETTER X.

My late letter to you, from Portsmouth, had nearly been a last address. In my passage from thence to the Lord Sheffield, at the Mother-bank, I was exposed to such imminent peril...

67. LETTER XI.

Again I have been unsettled, and moving about from place to place, making my home sometimes on board, sometimes on shore. On examining my baggage, soon after I joined the Lord S...

68. LETTER XII.

At length we are at sea! the convoy sailed from Spithead and St. Helens, the day after I sent my last letter, and I now lift my pen to you upon the bosom of the wide Atlantic. F...

69. LETTER XIII.

I had hoped not to resume my pen upon the face of the restless Atlantic; but that, long ere this, I might have addressed you from the island of Barbadoes; unhappily however, nea...

70. LETTER XIV.

After all our perils and dangers we are, again, safe at anchor, with terra firma in view! What a delightful element is the solid earth! During nine long weeks have we been wande...

71. LETTER XV.

Previous to our coming into harbour, from our late voyage, the ship’s company was busily occupied for several days, in cleaning, painting, and adorning the vessel; according to...

72. LETTER XVI.

The period is critical and important. News from each shore of the Atlantic, to its opposite, is sought with the most lively anxiety. While you are looking to us for tidings of o...

73. LETTER XVII.

From the details I gave you of our tedious voyage, you will learn, with surprise, that we still continue to live on board ship. But to this we have many inducements. It is much...

74. LETTER XVIII.

The office of caterer for the mess having fallen to the lot of your friend, I may tell you that I sometimes go to Bridge-town, to buy living meat for dinner. You will, perhaps,...

75. LETTER XIX.

It is Sunday, and, separated by the wide Atlantic, I take up my pen to hallow the sabbath to my friend. Mentally I am every day in your society: but on the sabbath I breathe a s...

76. LETTER XX.

Having fatigued you, in my late letters, with tedious notes, concerning the slaves and their customs, I feel happy to have it in my power to introduce you to the society of thei...

77. LETTER XXI.

We have made another very delightful excursion, and find this little island more interesting and picturesque than my pen can tell you. Being invited to form a party to the plant...

78. LETTER XXII.

We still remain without any accurate intelligence respecting the great body of our convoy; and, having no tidings of the commander in chief, we continue in equal uncertainty whe...

79. LETTER XXIII.

We have made our projected marooning excursion to Hackleton’s Cliff, and the windward coast of the island, as planned by our friends at the “social rock,” and often, in the cour...

80. LETTER XXIV.

It proves that we might have lengthened our marooning excursion, without the slightest interruption from the fear of being called away to St. Domingo. Scarcely any vessels arriv...

81. LETTER XXV.

It being stipulated that all subjects of remark may find place in my _Notes_, you will not reproach me, if an occasional sentence shall chance to be given upon medical matters....

82. mill. These going round, near to each other, are fed with the cotton,

which they take in, without receiving the seeds, leaving them to fall to the ground, or into a basket below, while the cotton, drawn between the rollers, is ejected into a box o...

83. LETTER XXVI.

It occurs to me that, amidst all the uncertainties of our unfortunate fleet, it may be pleasant to you and others of our friends to know which of the ships have made good the pa...

84. LETTER XXVII.

We made a visit this morning to the senate-house, and were present at a sitting of the general assembly of the island. The proceedings were conducted according to the routine of...

85. LETTER XXVIII.

What a day of hurry, confusion, and solicitude! A packet has at length arrived! From December the 9th, to March the 16th, we have been separated from you, without hearing one wo...

86. LETTER XXIX.

Carlisle Bay is become quite the busy Thames of the West Indies. Scarcely a day passes without the arrival of vessels from one part of the globe or another. To us this affords a...

87. LETTER XXX.

I should have mentioned to you in my last letter, that, from joining in the general greetings on the glad occasion of Sir R. Abercromby’s long-expected arrival, and hoping to le...

88. LETTER XXXI.

I fear you will be tired of reading tales of disappointment and uncertainty, which, as I before observed, would seem to know no end. On the morning of the 28th inst. we saw an e...

89. LETTER XXXII.

We are here all joy and delight. Without the humours of an April day, the morning has been hailed in cheerfulness, from bringing to us friends we have long been anxious to meet.

90. LETTER XXXIII.

Perhaps you will feel surprised if I should tell you that we have seen an African slave perform a chirurgical operation, with greater dexterity than it could have been done by t...

91. LETTER XXXIV.

Having, from time to time, detailed to you, in desultory remark, the whole chain of circumstances passing under my eye, perhaps, you will not deem it premature, should I now off...

92. LETTER XXXV.

A rumour is strongly prevalent, that a division of the troops, now assembled at Barbadoes, is to be detached on secret service. Should this take place, and the detachment be for...

93. LETTER XXXVI.

The apprehended division of our long associated mess has taken place! It has fallen to my lot to join an expedition under General Whyte, and I am separated from my friends, perh...

94. LETTER XXXVII.

Our destination is no longer a secret! The captain went yesterday on board the commodore, and received his instructions; when the Dutch colonies, upon the coast of Guiana, were...

95. LETTER XXXVIII.

I have again the pleasure of addressing you upon terra firma, and of telling you that the united colony of Essequibo and Demarara is ours. All being in readiness for landing on...

96. LETTER XXXIX.

Having secure possession of the colony of Essequibo and Demarara, a division of our armament has been detached to the attack of the adjoining settlement of Berbische, which sepa...

97. LETTER XL.

Previous to giving you the intelligence which reaches us at this place, it were fit to inform you that the island of Barbadoes is now become, as it were, the London of the West...

98. LETTER XLI.

General Whyte and part of the detachment which accompanied him, are returned to Demarara, leaving the 93d regiment, in garrison, at Berbische; that colony having capitulated upo...

99. LETTER XLII.

Since I last addressed you I have experienced a sad disappointment, in having to make my congé to the general, on his return to the islands. After all my expectations of being s...

100. LETTER XLIII.

I have already informed you that the barrack allotted to the medical officers is a very commodious house, situated near to the hospital; but I gave no account of the furniture;...

101. LETTER XLIV.

The hospital at La Bourgade being now established, and placed under proper regulations for the accommodation of the sick, I shall proceed, without delay, to the settlement of Be...

102. LETTER XLV.

Expecting a passage of only a few hours to this colony, I left Demarara the day after writing to you my last letter, in a small vessel which I had not seen previous to embarking...

103. LETTER XLVI.

Fort St. Andrew is situated on the eastern bank of the river Berbische, opposite to the island which graces its entrance. Nothing bearing the semblance of the abode of man is wi...

104. LETTER XLVII.

I have lately been present at the sale of a Dutch cargo of slaves, at the new town of Amsterdam. Many of the officers went from the fort to witness this degrading spectacle, and...

105. LETTER XLVIII.

Several opportunities have lately offered to me of making boat excursions, with Colonel Gammell and others of the officers, to New Amsterdam, and I have had the honor of being p...

106. LETTER XLIX.

On the 10th inst. a sloop arrived from Demarara, bringing us news of the surrender of St. Lucie: but stating only the simple fact, unconfirmed by any authentic details. Still we...

107. LETTER L.

How true it is, my friend, that where inclination leads, difficulties are easily subdued! After hearing many apprehensions expressed, and various obstructing circumstances enume...

108. LETTER LI.

We left Essendam early the following morning, but not without receiving additional proofs of attention from Mynheer Abbensets, who kindly intreated us to lengthen our present vi...

109. LETTER LII.

Mynheer Scholten, although not so advanced in life as the fiscal, has been many years in the colony, busily employed in the practice of medicine, and acting as chirurgien major...

110. LETTER LIII.

We rose at seven o’clock. Coffee was brought to us on quitting our hammocks, and at nine was set before us a more substantial repast. Soon afterwards we made our congé to the la...

111. LETTER LIV.

Unwilling to lose my time in sleep, I rose at an earlier hour than my comrades, and had the opportunity of inspecting the whole of M. Heynemann’s collection before breakfast; al...

112. LETTER LV.

Eager anticipation tracing in my mind all that we were to see, hear, and acquire at Savonette, I had scarcely closed my eyes before it was time again to open them. The period al...

113. LETTER LVI.

The generous Heynemann appeared much gratified by the satisfaction we expressed ourselves to have experienced in our visit at Savonette, and in our acknowledgments of the civil...

114. LETTER LVII.

From the inactivity of the Indians they are generally seen to be _enbonpoint_, and this, as I remarked before, gives them a certain equality of form, and of surface; but their s...

115. LETTER LVIII.

We rose with the sun in order to go round the plantation and the negro-yard previous to our departure, and before ten o’clock we took our seats in the boat, availing ourselves o...