Part 7

The broken stones and other debris, consequent upon the late alterations here, which had collected in various holes in the Rock and maintained their position up till now, have nearly all been cleared out by the severe gales of this month, and a couple of heavy iron poles, erected lately to mark the boat tracks or entrances to the landings, and which were sunk two feet in the solid rock and heavily cemented, have been shaken loose in their sockets by the pounding seas which have been besieging us of late. The rocks appear bleak and bare, and utterly void of vegetation. The white whelks have collected their scattered forces, and gone into winter quarters. Secure in sheltering nooks, they lie huddled together in close packed squadrons. Numerous small white banded whelks adhere to the base of the tower with a tenacity that seems surprising considering the swirling seas they are subjected to. This species, however, never seem to dream of hibernating. The eiders and longtails, with an unswerving attention to business, pursue their calling amid the hurly-burly of broken, tumbling seas--evidently little concerned whether the weather be fair or foul--and in the glassy hollows alternating between the breakers they can be distinctly seen scurrying over the rock surface like so many fish. Gannets this month are conspicuous by their absence, and only a few parasitic gulls divide their attention between the kitchen refuse and the hard won earnings of the eiders.

On several occasions during the month our fog signal was brought into action through the occurrence of heavy snowfalls. A silent, feathery fall on shore no doubt has charms peculiarly its own, but at sea constitutes a very serious danger to the anxious mariner as he steams at reduced speed through the fleecy curtain, shrieking his every two minute warning, his vessel’s head scarcely visible from the bridge. In snowstorms such as we have had of late our lantern soon becomes plastered up with snow on the weather side, necessitating constant removal to prevent it from completely blinding our light in that direction. This is an operation often accomplished with difficulty, especially when carried out in the teeth of a gale--an experience somewhat akin to lying out on a yardarm under similar conditions, only one doesn’t have the lift and ’scend of the vessel to contend with; yet his grip must be equally as sure, or, as the old salts phrase it, “Every finger a fish-hook,” on such occasions. Mounting by an outside ladder to the grated gallery which encircles the base of the lantern, one is exposed to the full force of the blast, and a firm grip must be taken to avoid being blown away. Below, the seas in wild tumult break against the building with a deafening roar, sending a perceptible tremor through the entire structure with each impact. Only by energetically hauling on the hand-rail can the slightest progress be made in the desired direction, the wind’s eye being the objective point, where possibly on arrival one may find himself pinned flat to the lantern, like an entomological specimen, by the force of the wind. The snow removed, the return journey is effected by simply allowing oneself to be blown gradually back.

While relieving the Bass Rock on our way ashore last relief, a good opportunity was afforded of witnessing the mode of effecting a landing under adverse circumstances. On arrival there, it was considered dangerous to attempt a landing at either of the two landing places, owing to the heavy sea then running. The landings--a flight of concrete steps from the water edge to the rocks above--are situated on either side of a slight promontory immediately beneath the lighthouse; and as deep water obtains to the rock face, it will be obvious that similar conditions must frequently prevail at either landing. The boat being loaded with the necessary stores, and the relieving keeper on board, an approach was made to within suitable distance of the Rock. A kedge anchor was then thrown overboard, and the boat slacked down till within working distance. The keepers meanwhile had been busy erecting an iron pole or derrick on the rocks above the position now occupied by the boat, and which, being slightly inclined seawards, a tackle from its extremity was drawn by means of a guy-line to the boat, and the stores hoisted ashore by the keepers in charge of the tackle-fall above. Seated in a loop of the rope, the relieving keeper was then hoisted, and his shore-going neighbour similarly lowered. As an extra precaution, a second boat was sent from the ship to stand by the working boat in case of accident. Fortunately, however, their services were not required.

Our final relief here for the year was effected with some difficulty on the 29th. Owing to the doubtful aspect of the landing, only one boat was sent ashore instead of two as usual. The fortnightly supply of coal and water being omitted on this occasion does not, however, inconvenience us, as a three months’ reserve stock of necessaries is always maintained during the winter months.

_JANUARY-FEBRUARY 1903._

Bright, sunny weather characterised the opening day of the year, the sea assuming a suspicious placidity quite summer-like in appearance but for the keen nip in the air perceptible out of doors. This state of affairs, however, proved but ephemeral, and for the remainder of the month we have experienced most boisterous weather. Strong westerly winds occasionally attained the force of a gale, accompanied with driving seas, which roared and sang a lullaby scarcely compatible with the shore-dwellers’ sense of security, but which, strange to say, has a more somnolent effect upon us than a breathless stillness, though an occasional thumper of a sea, more forceful than its fellows, demonstrates the stability of our domicile by imparting a gentle tremor to the entire structure, awakening in the sleeper a glimmer of consciousness and a hazy impression of a traction-engine lumbering somewhere in the vicinity.

Our entrance doorway--thirty feet from the Rock--faces south-west, and is guarded by a heavy double leaved door, which opens outwards, and held open against the building by means of heavy brass thumb-snecks. An inner or vestibule door of solid brass is placed six feet further inwards--the walls here, by the way, being seven feet thick, tapering to one foot immediately beneath the balcony, sixty feet higher up. This door is also double-leaved, with the upper panels of heavy plate glass, frequently obscured by the strong westerly wind whipping the tops of the seas as they rise in front, and carrying them souse into the doorway. Standing here during the prevalence of a gale, the outlook is being constantly darkened by a curtain of hissing foam drawn across the doorway, as each sea breaks against the base of the tower, flinging the spray high overhead. Fifteen miles in front of us lies the Isle of May, with its castle-like lighthouse crowning its summit, while on a lower level stands a whitewashed relic--remnant of a time, not so long ago, when the Island boasted a double light, and electricity had not as yet usurped sole sway. Emerging from the right of the May appears the bluff outline of the Bass Rock, while away in the far distance North Berwick Law cleaves the sky-line. Away to St Abb’s Head, on the left, the Haddington coast stretches hazy and indistinct, while the green, grassy slopes of Fife, with the spires of St Andrews faintly visible, fill in the right of the picture. Laying hold of the man-ropes suspended in the doorway, and turning to the right, the Forfarshire coast is seen extending from the Tay in a long unbroken line, with the snow-clad Grampians towering majestically in the background. Right in front of us are the smoking stalks of Arbroath. Two conspicuous white dots in the foreground mark the pierheads, in front of which an impatient “flaxer” cruises in glorious uncertainty of ever being permitted to fulfil her charter and deposit her Riga-run freight on the right side of the bar. This is the panorama from the viewpoint of our doorway on a clear day, but, as seen of late through sheets of flying foam, it reminds one of a cinematograph display, in which the films are far from perfect.

On the first Sunday of the year hundreds of gulls were seen resting on the surface of the sea, half a mile nor’-west from here, evidently by their movements enjoying a feast of “fry,” and in all probability proclaiming the presence of herring shoals. During the gale of 10th January over a dozen gannets were seen swooping and diving, presumably at herring. Only with difficulty could we maintain our position on the balcony, owing to the force of the wind, yet these birds circled and dived amid the turmoil of wind and water with a graceful ease and precision that seemed truly wonderful considering the force of wind they occasionally beat up against, or, as they turned broadside on, were wafted without the least exertion in the opposite direction. The first week of February saw hundreds of these birds back to their breeding haunts on the Bass Rock. From the deck of the “Relief” steamer lying within a few hundred yards their movements are clearly seen. Each projecting ledge of the precipitous cliffs is tenanted by some members of the cackling crowd, their heads see-sawing from side to side. The birds are evidently engaged in brisk conversation, a monopoly of which is certainly not tolerated amongst them, judging by the vigorous efforts of each to be heard above his neighbour. Probably the new lighthouse is being discussed in the light of an innovation on their ancestral rights of possession, and later, as its beams fall athwart their nursery, tradition may recall man’s former intrusion on their solitary keep many hundred years ago. No doubt their ups and downs since last meeting on _terra firma_ are fully discussed, for it is a curious fact that these birds are rarely, if ever, known to rest on shore except when engaged in domestic duties. Occasionally a depraved specimen may be seen floating helplessly on the water, a victim of his own gluttony, having dined not wisely but too well.

February has been a repetition of its predecessor, cold and blowy, with excessive rainfalls. In a shallow depression on the higher rock surface our attention has been attracted to a solitary plant, a specimen, I understand, of “_Himanthalia lorea_.” A cylindrical stem (an inch in length) supports a thick, fleshy disc, about an inch in diameter. From the centre of this disc three separate branches rise with their terminals, blunted at first, but which were gradually seen to bifurcate. This is _our_ “flower in the crannied wall,” and is in its own way equally as suggestive.

The eiders are occasionally seen varying their diet with a vegetable course. Seizing the tip of a tangle blade two or three inches from the surface, they spin round it like a top, till the portion held in their bill is twisted off and greedily swallowed. No need for them to evade the gulls while engaged in this repast. It is most amusing to witness the discomfiture of the gulls as they hurry from a distance expecting to share in something edible, only to find the duck negotiating six inches of seaweed. That the white whelk itself is not immune from enemies was recently brought before our notice, one being picked up with a long black worm dangling from its mouth. On withdrawing the worm--somewhat resembling a boot lace--portions of the deceased tenant followed. Doubtless every organism has its own particular parasite.

“Big fleas have little fleas upon their backs to bite ’em, And these again have lesser fleas and so _ad infinitum_.”

_MARCH 1903._

Traditionally correct, the advent of this month was decidedly leonine, and its exit as certainly lamb-like; but between these periods, though a few really beautiful days could be credited to the latter symbol of peacefulness, the lion was largely in the ascendant. Borne on the off-shore wind comes the odour of heather--not the fragrant perfume one usually associates with this sweet-smelling plant, but the smoky incense consequent on moor-burning--and at night the higher levels of the coast line exhibit lights which are certainly not recognised in the Mariners’ Sailing Directions.

Over a score of steam trawlers have been busy in our neighbourhood all the month. Sunday or Saturday is all the same to them; they are at it night and day, and the weather must be bad indeed to detain them in port. Often they are seen passing here burying themselves to the foremast in the seas on their way to the fishing grounds, perhaps twenty miles outside of us. The Rock seems to be a recognised stage in their journey; for, whenever abreast of it, over goes their log, and a compass course is laid for the distant banks. Here, far outside the three-mile limit, the presence of the _Brenda_ or the _Minna_[1] causes no alarm; and, providing their numbers are correctly exposed, receive no interference from these coasting policemen. A few summers ago, one of these same trawlers, while on her way out from Dundee one Sunday, surprised us by driving right up on the reef in broad daylight, a hundred yards from the tower. Fortunately, the sea was like glass at the time, otherwise the consequences must have been disastrous. The tide being on the ebb, their attempts to back off were unsuccessful; and there they remained hard and fast from one o’clock till six in the evening, when a passing trawler succeeded in towing them off, evidently none the worse of their brief acquaintance with the Bell Rock. During their detention, the crew paid us a visit in their boat, recalling to our mind a story in which a clumsily handled brig, in coming to an anchorage in a crowded harbour, ran aboard of a vessel already anchored. Visiting this vessel a few days later, to apologise for the occurrence, the offender was thus announced by the steward: “Captain S----has come on board, Sir.” “Oh, indeed,” sarcastically remarked the aggrieved mariner. “Has he brought his brig with him?”

The rocks are this year more plentifully strewn with mussel-spawn and acorn barnacles than usual; and already the whelks have sallied from their winter’s sleep, bent on their destruction. Hundreds of hermit crabs have also made their appearance, notably first in the deeper pools, but gradually taking up their quarters in the shallows. Towards the end of the month, a few small spats of paidlefish spawn were seen deposited in convenient crevices of the rocks. This is unusually early for “nesting” operations, and engenders hopes of an early fishing, as the ova is generally the first inducement for the wandering cod to come within reach of our rods. Numerous clusters of the wheat-like ova of the white whelk are also seen; but, unlike that of the paidlefish (lumpsucker)--which may be detached from its gelatinous fastenings in a solid mass--each egg adheres separately by its own footstalk. Though the adult “paidles” are only to be seen here during the period of incubation--the term seems quite applicable, seeing that the guardian “cock” is always in close attendance, with his nose thrust into the centre of the mass of ova, at which point there is always a depression, and frequently a hole right through it--juveniles are occasionally met with at all seasons; and, on the first anniversary of their birthday, are seen to have attained the length of two inches.

Numbers of peculiar looking slugs are met with at present, somewhat resembling a section of a small orange with the skin attached. On their upper surface, near to one end, a minute orifice is seen, through which a small rosette like arrangement is protruded when at rest, but which is instantly withdrawn when the animal is disturbed. This is the only visible sign of life in this otherwise inert object, and is probably its means of obtaining a living. Its under or ambulatory surface is similar to that of a limpet, without its tenacity, but with a somewhat similar rate of progression. Another small slug noticed this month--no larger than one’s finger nail and recalling the general appearance of the “fretful porcupine,” with “quills” arranged along its back, and displaying beautiful shades of brilliant blue and crimson.

_Saturday, 14th._--A beautiful warm sunny day, the sea like glass, dappled here and there with great greasy-like patches peculiar to still weather. Flocks of eiders, longtails, and gulls appear to be having a day off, and float listlessly hither and thither, seeming only intent on making themselves aggressively audible in the stillness, the longtails piping a shrill treble to the sonorous bass of the eiders, while the gulls contribute a fairly good imitation of a laughing chorus. Later, the gulls are seen to bestir themselves, as myriads of small circles break the glassy surface in their vicinity, betraying the presence of “fry,” their legitimate food. Pecking from side to side as they float silently through the shoal, they evidently enjoy the feast thus provided for them. The sight of the gulls thus engaged apparently reminds the ducks of their negligence in this respect, and paddling full speed ahead, they are soon busy diving in the shallower water of the reef. The longtails push their way right up to the base of the tower, round which they are seen circling, plucking at the green vegetation adhering to the stonework, and cackling loudly as they breathe for a few seconds on the surface, all unconscious of our presence on the balcony above them. A small piece of coal dropped while they are still under water causes them to shoot away like startled minnows, and only when they have put some distance between them and the source of alarm do they make their appearance on the surface, evidently much flustered by the mysterious noise. Though a couple of fathoms deep, their alarm was apparent at the same moment the coal struck the surface, proving that the sound and not the appearance of the falling body was the disturbing cause. The end of the month still sees them in close attendance, but any day now may witness their exodus. But few spring migrants have come our way this month, principally a few blackbirds, thrushes, and starlings.

[1] Fishery Board cruisers.

_APRIL 1903._

Warm, sunny weather in the earlier part of the month raised our hopes of a change of diet, and, coupled with the early appearance of the paidlefish spawn, our expectations of an early fishing ran high. On the 8th, the capture of three small cods in “Johnny Gray” track increased our hopes, and again on the 9th, eight were taken, but since then we’ve had no other. Cold, blowy weather, with heavy seas, has rendered all attempts in this direction futile; however, the attraction--as evidenced by the stomachs of those captured--still increases, and numbers of bloated paidle “hens,” with their lower jaws protruding like a prize bull-dog, are seen cruising sluggishly among the tangles in quest of a suitable nesting place. The nests this season are unusually small; sometimes they contain as much ova as would fill a quart pot. Each ovum is a sixteenth of an inch in diameter, and were all permitted to come to maturity--instead of becoming food for other fishes as most do--would soon fill the sea of themselves. “All nature is at one with rapine and war,” and necessarily so, otherwise we would soon be crowded out of existence.

Our winter residents, the eiders and longtails, have gradually disappeared. On the 4th, a representative pair of each alone remained, but these have now thought better of it and gone the way of their more sensible comrades. A few gulls, herring, and kittiwakes hover about, and guillemots and gannets are now common.

The gannets, I am informed by the keepers on the Bass Rock, commenced laying there on the 11th. The solitary egg these birds deposit is heavily coated with lime, which, when scrubbed off, exposes a pale blue surface. This coating is probably the origin of the fallacy that these birds ensure the safety of their eggs by cementing them to the bare rock. On the contrary, each nest is composed of quite a barrow-load of material of the most miscellaneous description. One of these nests noted on the Bass this season was seen to have the end of a soft-soap barrel for a foundation, armfuls of withered grass, dried tangles, bits of rope, string, cotton waste, and other flotsam and jetsam picked up about the Rock. Amongst the lining of the nest, pheasant and partridge feathers were seen, which were certainly not garnered on the Bass. The harvesting of the withered grass was accomplished between dark and daylight, and, therefore, unnoticed by the keepers, but the area of their operations, as seen next day, suggested the presence of a lawn mower. Thousands of these birds are slaughtered annually by the St Kildians as an article of diet, and the wonder is, considering the solitary egg deposited and that three years elapse before the adult stage is reached, that they continue so numerous.

Dr Wallace, in his “Natural Selection,” speaking of birds in general, tells us that, if permitted to live, in the ordinary course of production “in fifteen years each pair of birds would have increased to more than two thousand millions. Whereas we have no reason to believe that the number of the birds of any country increases at all in fifteen or in one hundred and fifty years. On the average, all above one become food for hawks and kites, wild cats or weasels, or perish of cold and hunger as winter comes on.”

Myriads of white whelks are now scattered over the Rock surface, and already patches of mussels and acorn barnacles have been cleared by their voracity. Their ova, which is to be met with in almost every nook and cranny, is left to take care of itself. A patch of this ova is situated in a position which a paidle-hen subsequently fancied for a nursery, and, scorning all rights of possession, plastered her ova indiscriminately over that of the whelks, with the result that they are now under the special care of the guardian “cock.”

A stranded cuttlefish was an object of much interest one evening this month. What a queer-looking object it appeared, with its eight long tentacles squirming in all directions, its body a slobbery mass of animated mucilage. Although only a foot in diameter it required some force to detach it from the rock, as each of the tentacles is furnished with rows of suckers on its under side. By extending the tentacles in front, the animal was able to move along the Rock surface, not in a jerky fashion, as might be expected, but with a continuous gliding motion, clearly showing that each sucker acted independently of its neighbour. If taken hold of, one or other of the tentacles is immediately twisted round the hand with a tenacity that seems surprising considering the size of the animal, and one can then realise to some extent the stories occasionally heard of its giant relatives of the tropics. Irritated, it appears to have the properties of the chameleon, flushing through all the gradations of colour in quick succession, and latterly discharging a jet of fluid of inky blackness. This resource, however, was utterly useless in the present circumstances, but, on placing the animal in a shallow pool of water, its use was at once apparent, for on being touched it immediately rendered itself invisible by the inky fluid discharged. Frequent irritation, however, exhausted its stock of ink, and latterly only clear water was expelled. This expulsion, when effected on the Rock, was accompanied by an audible murmur. The narrow slits of eyes closely resemble those of a dog-fish, and the head, with the anterior tentacle elevated in the air, grotesquely reminds one of an elephant in the act of trumpeting.

_MAY 1903._