Chapter 2

_9th_--I awoke about sunrise and ascended our deck; there had been another heavy frost. We were just passing Bull fort, and had entered the _Black Snake_, so called from the serpentine course of the canal. We have passed, during the night, Whitesborough, Oriskany, and Rome, three mushroom villages, which, with many others, have sprung up as with the magic of Aladdin's lamp. We had now before us, with a few exceptions, one uninterrupted white pine and hemlock swamp for something like 20 miles, and really it looks to me as if you might cut and haul wood and logs to eternity without exhausting the supply. The country looks perfectly level, and in many places judging from the white clover and blue-grass which cover the shores of the canal, must be fertile, though its appearance would not indicate a healthy location for man. As we approached Canistoto, which by the way is but three years old, and a considerable place, we observed the country to be settled partially on both sides, the soil being dark and deep, was thickly covered with stumps and rich grass. In the course of the last 10 miles, we have passed several squads of Onondaga and Oneida Indians carrying baskets, brooms, hunting apparatus, &c. I could not but think of their once numerous hordes, now no more, save a few scattered remnants of their wandering tribes, having scarcely a spot which they can call their own. Placing myself for a moment in their situation, it made me feel sad, and I could but exclaim with Burns, "Man's inhumanity to man makes countless thousands mourn!" Among these numbers were frequently seen little children, and we diverted ourselves for miles together in making them run after the packet, by occasionally throwing out a cent, which made great scratching and scrabbling to see who would get it. We could not prevail on them to converse by the offer of any bribe whatever.

_Extract No. 5_

As we passed Manlius, the canal runs on the North side of the high bank for near two miles, which opened to view many apparently inexhaustible quarries of plaster, which is said to be of superior quality. We also passed, soon after, Green Lake, a pretty sheet of water, which has been sounded for 400 feet without discovering bottom.

At six o'clock we arrived at what may be called one of the wonders of this part of the world--the extensive salt establishment, belonging to the state, situated immediately at the head of Onondaga Lake. Here are located the villages of Syracuse, Salina, and Geddesburg, all within a mile of each other; the first and last are on the canal, and Salina a little to the north, but fairly in view, connected by a short feeder. Syracuse is in a very prosperous condition. It was a very agreeable and novel sight to me to behold at this place upwards of 200 acres actually covered with vats filled with salt water in the act of evaporation. The process is very simple, and I shall not therefore attempt a description. The quantity of salt sent to market from this shop is immense. The salt water is obtained from two springs or wells, and is pumped by water power obtained from the canal, carried through horizontal logs in every direction for a half a mile to a mile and a-half, to supply the vats. As we passed the lake we had a fine view of it, which was very beautiful viewed from our elevation of 50 feet above it. Soon after leaving this place it became dusk, and I took to my couch.

_10th_--The Captain called me at peep of day, to say I was near my place of landing. I had scarcely time to equip myself before it was necessary to jump ashore, and I soon found myself on the road to Auburn, distant 9 miles--stage fare 25 cents only. The country is rather hilly and stony for easy culture, but tolerably improved. I arrived at Auburn just in time to take stage for Canandaigua, distant 40 miles--fare $1.50, which is an extensive town, but the canal route has drained it of considerable business. Here is located the state prison for the western section of New York--an establishment for the study of Theology, and a handsome building called the Western exchange, for the accommodation of travellers. Twelve of us left here _on_ our stage, myself and another small man sitting _outside_, which in fine weather, is considered, by universal consent of all stage jokes, the best seat in the coach. Cayuga, nine miles, was our first stage; it is 3 miles above the outlet of the lake, and is a smart village. We here crossed the Lake by a bridge a mile and a quarter long, supported by piles, being one of the longest, but not the handsomest, bridge in the Union. On passing this famous bridge, over which some of us walked, we had a fine view of the South, as far as the eye could reach over this fine expanse of water, which was as clear as chrystal. Three miles further we arrived at Seneca, where is a smart town. Five miles beyond is Waterloo, a considerable place. Our route has been on the Seneca river, affording several fine scites for mills. Nine miles further brought us to the outlet of the Seneca Lake; the last two miles being on the beach at its termination, being in the form of a semi-circle, or half-moon; from which we had a most delightful view of the town of Geneva, which is situated on the Western side, on the declivity of a fine, commanding eminence. We arrived at Geneva, which is second in beauty to any yet seen. After dinner, as the stage did not immediately go, I went to different positions of the town, to look up the delightful Lake, and enjoy, I hope not for the last time, the charming view. Here is located another Theological Seminary, and other public institutions. We left at half past two, and arrived at half past five o'clock. It is situated at the outlet of the lake of the same name, and resembles Geneva, which having just left, bore the palm away from Canandaigua, which is, however, a handsome village, being the county town of Ontario. We stopped at a spacious hotel, from which there is a commanding view of the Lake. I never saw half so much good land in one day; in fact that which we have passed is all good. I did not pass in the whole distance of 50 miles, from Weeds' Basin, a solitary piece of woodland nearer the road than from one quarter to a half mile, and saw very few stumps. This is called the back-woods, out-of-the-world, society, and so on, and I am told it will continue thus to Buffalo, a succession of well-improved farms, with some of them having quite elegant buildings. It is a fact that wood has become scarce. At Canandaigua are two fine churches, two banks, (one too many at least,) two fine hotels, a court-house, jail, large steam-mill, &c. &c. It resembles Princeton, situated principally on one wide street, and is about as large.

_Extract No. 6_

_11th_--I was awakened about midnight by the landlord, and informed that the great Western Mail, which was to carry me to Buffalo, was ready, on which I rose, paid my fare--$3--and was crowded as usual, with eight others, into a comfortable stage. I had not much opportunity of seeing the country, but was informed it was as highly improved as what I had seen yesterday. At Avon Post Office we crossed the Genessee, by a substantial covered bridge, and entered upon the Indian reservation, extending three miles, being the first land since leaving Weedsborough, distant 75 miles, which was not improved and thickly inhabited. It is held by a tribe of Senecas, and with the exception of partial clearings, is almost in a state of nature. Le Roy, on our route, is a very sweet place, nearly new. Batavia is the capital of Genessee county, and is a fine town, having much taste about it. After leaving this town, we passed the Tonewanta Creek, and passed Pembroke, at the distance of fourteen miles. This is not much of a place. At 8 miles further, we passed Clarence, pretty much of the same stamp. The country since leaving Batavia to this place, is low meadow land, in the possession of the Pioneers of the land, and looks more like what is generally supposed in my county, to be the appearance of this clime generally, than any I have seen; but there is no mistake about the soil's being good--tho' I should rather suppose it to be unhealthy, as the Natives are very dirty and beastly. After leaving Clarence at the distance of 8 miles, Williamstown makes its appearance. Here is a good water power, on a stream that I did not ascertain the name of, running into the Tonewanta. After leaving this place, the country assumes a fine, rich, pleasant aspect, devoid of trees or stumps, and ornamented with fine, well cultivated farms, with rich waving fields of grain, and elegant orchards in full bloom; but there must be, judging from the number of orchards, no scarcity of fruit in this country. Further, 6 miles--which is short of Buffalo 4 miles--we ascended a considerable eminence, and from the summit, I, for the first time in my life, had an extensive view of king George's dominions in the Western World. _Erie_ was distinctly seen on the left, and _Niagara_ on the right, and the town of Buffalo full in view before us. From this point the road ascends by a beautiful slope in a straight line till we arrived at the town of Buffalo, which we effected about 5 o'clock P. M. I cannot say that I admire the country, speaking generally, for the last forty miles after leaving Batavia--nor do I think it is sufficiently watered, and, by the by, that which I tasted, I never wish to taste more, as it set my bowels in an uproar prodigiously, to my great inconvenience and pain. And now for Buffalo, the Frontier town entirely destroyed during the late war. It is fully as large as Burlington, and finished in the finest style. It has (so it is said,) the finest Court House and house of entertainment in the state--and from viewing them, I have no reason to doubt the saying. The said _Inn_ is the one at which I put up; and the Hall and apartments are really finished and furnished superbly. Yet, like most such houses, the eating is nothing to boast of--and the charges are certainly _fine_. This place supports six extensive Hotels and a Theatre. There are three Churches--one of which is an ornament to this, and would be to any place. Its situation is certainly pleasant, being at the head of the _Great Lake_; but nothing to compare with Geneva. Here the Grand Canal terminates by another spacious Basin, filled with boats.

I took a walk, as it was a pleasant evening, the wind blowing fresh up the lake--down to the Buck. But instead of the smooth and beautiful expanse of the Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua, was heard the roar of the Atlantic. The surf dashed against the shore with violence, and the breakers advanced and receded in rapid succession--and it was to me almost irreconcilable that it was nothing but Lake Erie. I counted something like 30 vessels of considerable size at the wharves, for navigating this fresh water sea. And to make the matter short, Buffalo is a brisk and pleasant place. And now, whether I am credited or not, I state it as a fact, independent and absolute--that the distance from Weedsport to Batavia is 100 miles--that it is as thickly settled on each side of the road as far as can be seen, as is the road from New York to Philadelphia, being about the same distance--that the towns and villages are as much finer and neater, as the land is better--and that there are 10 trees and stumps along the latter, where there is one along the former,--and as to scenery, the odds are so much in favor of the former, that I cannot, nor will not, attempt to compare them.

_Extract No. 7_

I left Buffalo on the 12th in the stage for Niagara Falls, or Manchester, distant from Buffalo twenty-three miles, fare one dollar. For the first time since I set out, I had plenty of room, as there were but six in the stage. We came to Black Rock in one and a half miles--it is a smart place, but never can equal Buffalo. I was here informed that a passage could be procured to Waterloo, in Upper Canada, on the opposite side, whence a stage runs to Chippewa. But as the current flows at the rate of nine miles an hour towards the great falls, I declined the experiment. The canal passes directly by the side of the river, until you arrive at the village of Tontawanto, distant twelve miles, where it takes the creek, by being dammed at its mouth. This place is near the Indian village of the same name, and is truly a low, dirty, and savage-looking town--so the sooner I leave it, the better. Our road has been, and still continues along the banks of the rapid Niagara. But of all the roads I have ever seen, travelled, or heard of, this comes nearer to shaking soul out of body than any other.

Grand Island commences six miles below Buffalo, and continues twelve miles, by seven wide. This is the spot that Major Noah purchased of the state to settle all the wandering Jews--a project which has not yet succeeded. Below Grand Island is Navy Island, about three miles in length; after leaving which you have a splendid view of the great river just preparing to make the lover's leap and wed Ontario--and shall I, like many others, and as certain to fail, like them, attempt to describe this mighty cataract? But let me first see it.

When within four miles of Manchester, we distinctly heard the troubled waters, and saw the ascending clouds of spray. At last we came opposite the rapids, one mile above the pitch, when I had enough to do to sit still and stare in mute astonishment and admiration. Having arrived at the inn at Manchester about 11 o'clock, taking no notice of the village, I immediately called for a room, deposited my trunk, clenched my umbrella, (for it rains here eternally,) and sallied out to see that which is truly said to be worth a voyage across the Atlantic to behold. I first went to the great pitch, then down the steps to the bottom of the great abyss, and gazed with wonder and astonishment--got pretty wet, and ascended in a fine perspiration. This was the first time in my life that I thought my eyes too small. However, I stretched them as wide as they would well bear, and they partially answered my purpose. Next I started for the bridge across to Goat Island, about two hundred and fifty yards long, under which the mighty waters dash and roar as if heaven and earth were invited guests to the great marriage of waters, so soon to take place. The thought was irresistible, that if the bridge beneath me were by any sudden mishap to give way, I should certainly go to the wedding also. But I got over safely, and found the island quite a pleasant promenade. I was not long in crossing it to take a peep at the great Canadian Horse-shoe. On this side of the island is also erected another bridge, to the distance of about sixty or seventy yards in length, from rock to rock, on the very verge of the terrible precipice. By what unearthly magic this bridge was erected at this awful spot, is not to my purpose to inquire--but there it was, and again the thought passed across my mind, whether I should venture to its further extreme. For a moment, fear caused me to pause--yet in another I resolved to try my fate. Alas! should a foot have slipped, (and it was very wet,) I must have bid farewell to earth, if not to water. When I reached the further extreme of the bridge and looked below, Almighty Heaven! before thee, in all thy unspeakable grandeur, and in this awful situation, what a poor, dependent, finite being did I feel myself to be! and, to be serious--for no man can feel otherwise here--I defy all the painters--all the poets--all the tourists--and in fact all mankind, to give to one who has not already seen this awfully magnificent scene, the most faint impression of its sublime and terrible reality. It is far away beyond human apprehension to delineate, however imperfectly, its bare profile. It is one of the few objects which cannot be proportioned; and nothing short of actual observation of the awful reality, can afford any satisfaction to the inquiring mind. It is indeed the work of _God_.

To account for the source of the vast stream of water which is constantly tumbling over the falls, seems extremely difficult. It never varies, but is eternally the same. You cannot change your situation twenty rods in any way, but its features vary materially. Hence arises the difficulty of making a good general likeness. I had heard and read a great deal of the Horse-shoe falls, but there is now no similitude of one to be seen. Its appearance is more in the form of a flat-iron, or the letter V, with the point up stream. It is said, and I have no doubt of its truth, that the view of the Horse-shoe falls is by far the grandest and most imposing; but it requires some nerve to venture thereon and look below. Goat Island contains about seventy acres, is very heavily timbered, and belongs to Judge Porter, who bought it at $10 per acre. Between it and the American shore are several other small islands; and the Goat-island-bridge, as it is called, is thrown first on one of these, and thence to the island itself. A very extensive paper mill is built upon the island on which the bridge first rests. If Judge Porter were disposed to sell out his purchase, he could doubtless realize a profit of a thousand per cent upon his seventy acres. You are charged twenty-five cents for the use of the bridge during your stay, for which you cross as often as you please. On the island is kept a collection of minerals, petrefactions, &c. being a sort of museum, of which the toll-gatherer is proprietor. He makes it a matter of conscience to charge pretty roundly for any you may purchase, as they are _said_ to be collected under and about the falls--and as every person wishes to carry home some trophy of his visit, I presume the museum is a very profitable concern.

Having enjoyed an excellent night's repose, lulled by the roaring of the cataract, I rose early on the morning of the 13th, and hoisting my window, enjoyed a beautiful view of the rapids, which, independent of the falls, are a sublime spectacle. After breakfast I made up my mind, in spite of a heavy rain, to cross over and drink a health to old King George, and for other purposes. I therefore again descended the almost perpendicular staircase, paid my ferriage, entered a small boat, and in a twinkling was in the midst of the waters, enveloped in the surrounding spray. The waters here, like a violent, angry man, having vented all his fury, become comparatively tranquil, and susceptible of social and agreeable intercourse. The river, which, above the falls, is nearly a mile in width, becomes suddenly contracted to about a fourth of that distance. While crossing, the story of the Indian having descended the cataract in safety, occurred to me; and I at once pronounced the author destitute of truth. It is utterly impossible.

The view, while crossing the river, is obscured in a considerable degree by the surrounding spray; but the sound is almost deafening, and on placing my thumbs to my ears, and shutting my eyes for a minute, then suddenly opening them, and unstopping my ears, the effect almost amounted to stunning. Our landing on the opposite shore was soon effected, when the first thing I did was to take off my hat and drink, from a little mountain spring, a health to King George, but accompanied with various important qualifications. I ascended by a rough road, nearly completed, for the purpose of having a ferry to cross by a horse-boat, and after pulling and blowing, attained the top of the eminence, whence I proceeded to the Table Rock. I gazed, as usual, with astonishment, paid a shilling and went down the perpendicular ladder, or rather winding staircase, to the dreadful abyss below. I must here confess, that although I was yesterday heroic enough to go to the extreme of the Horse-shoe bridge, actually on the very verge of the precipice, and in the midst of the descending torrent, a spot terrible in comparison in point of danger, with that now before me, yet I was now afraid to venture under the sheet. The situation of the bridge on which I had so recently stood, hung, as it were, over me, and until that moment I had no conception of its dangerous location. Having satisfied my curiosity, I ascended the tedious staircase, and proceeded, conducted by a guide, to the spot on which was fought the memorable battle of _Lundy's Lane_, distant a short half mile. But there was nothing remarkable to be seen. The ground was free from the stain of blood, though the grass waved in rank luxuriance, fertilized, no doubt, by the blood of those brave men who perished in that sanguinary struggle. A sigh involuntarily rose to their memory, as I thought upon the ravages of war--cut myself a cane from the well contested field, and returning to the boat, bid farewell to Canada.

Before I leave the Great Falls, I may observe, that, having seen them from every accessible situation, I am satisfied that the best _general_ view of them is from the Table Rock; though the finest and most terrific view of the Horse-shoe falls is from the bridge on the north side of the island, and the line and periphery of the pitch is best seen from the precipice of the island. Below, all is roar and deafening sound, while the spray, constantly rising, obscures in a great measure the sight. Manchester is one of the finest water-powers upon earth. Several manufactories are already established, and more are building.

While seated on a bench, taking my last look of the Falls, "Farewell," said I, "magnificently grand and awfully sublime Niagara; although I never shall never behold thee more, yet will the appearance of thy remarkable visage, and the thunder of thy agitated waters, never be forgotten while existence remains." And the reflection of having seen one of the grandest works that nature's God ever produced, will be at least comfortable. I arose, ascended the summit, and left the scene.

_Extract No. 8_

I had left Niagara on the afternoon of the 13th, and took stage for Lewistown, distance seven miles, fare thirty seven cents. After leaving this place, you pass near by the great gulf, which is torn from a level country to an immense depth, all the way to Lewistown. Its course is very winding, and the rapidity of the current is wonderful. There is no doubt in my mind but that the original scite of this huge water-fall was at the latter town, for here terminates very abruptly the high table land through which this deep-cut is rent and torn. The country between these two places is level--and nothing more can be said in its favor. The road is intolerable, and the people look savage. Just before we arrived at Lewistown, as I observed before, we descended a very high hill, down which the road is truly dangerous, and at whose base the town is handsomely situated. On the Canada side, directly opposite, is Queenstown, full in view. It forms a pretty cluster of houses, all built since the late war, as the town was burnt by the British, as well as Buffalo. From the inn at which we stopped is a fine view of the colossal monument of General Brock, situated on the heights of Queenstown. It is formed of a round column, rising 130 feet high, terminated by an appropriate emblem. It is erected within a few rods of the spot where this brave officer fell, and must have cost no small trifle to the king.