PART I

THOUGHTS ON TREK

I. ON WHAT HAS BEEN AND MAY BE 3

II. ON THE GREAT WHITE ROAD 8

III. ON THE CARRIER 14

IV. ON AFRICAN MODESTY AND AFRICAN COURTESY 19

V. ON THE MEANING OF “RELIGIOUS” 24

VI. A RAGOÛT OF THINGS SEEN AND FELT 29

VII. THE SALLAH AT ZARIA 35