Chapter 7

New York State Building

The New York State building was admirably located upon one of the most attractive sites within the gift of the Exposition Company, to whom the Commission, in behalf of the State of New York, desire to make grateful acknowledgment.

THE SITE

The building stood on the brow of a hill, the land sloping off gently to the north, and faced upon a broad plaza, through which ran one of the most frequented highways within the grounds, known as Commonwealth avenue. For its neighbors were the buildings of Kansas, Iowa, Massachusetts, Ohio, Wisconsin and Oklahoma, while westward, at the foot of the hill, was located the great cage erected by the United States government, which held the exhibit of live birds from the Smithsonian Institute.

To no state, with the possible exception of Missouri, the home state, was so large a site assigned as to New York. Its extent, the undulating character of the grounds, and the presence of many beautiful, stately trees, afforded countless opportunities for landscape effects. From the opening day the grounds presented a charming appearance, the well-kept lawns giving place here and there to large beds of nasturtiums, poppies, cannae, and rhododendrons, while at the lowest point on the grounds, near the northeast corner, was located a lily pond. It was filled with the choicest aquatic plants of every variety, which were furnished through the courtesy of Shaw's Gardens and the Missouri Botanical Society. During the season many beautiful bouquets of varicolored blossoms were gathered and its surface was almost entirely covered by odd shaped leaves from which peeped here and there the buds of pond lilies.

TRANSFER OF SITE TO THE STATE

The site was formally turned over to the Commission on October 1, 1902, and was received by a committee appointed by the president, consisting, of Commissioners John K. Stewart, John C. Woodbury and James H. Callanan. The ceremony took place in the presence of Honorable David R. Francis, president of the Exposition Company, the Director of Works, and other Exposition officials, the committee of the New York State Commission and invited guests.

The exercises were brief but impressive. President Francis spoke as follows:

REMARKS OF PRESIDENT FRANCIS

"A universal exposition, either in the United States or elsewhere, would be incomplete if the Empire State of the American Union were not represented. This site has been selected for the great State of New York, and upon this location we trust there will be erected a structure which will be in keeping with the glorious record New York and her sons have made from the beginning of this country. New York needs no encomium from me, none in fact from her sons. She speaks for herself. The Director of Works will present to the chairman of the New York Commission the site for the building of the State of New York."

Honorable Isaac S. Taylor, Director of Works, then formally presented the site to the Commission, handing to Commissioner John K. Stewart a handsome banner of purple silk, upon which was painted the coat of arms of the State of New York. Driving the staff in the ground, thus marking the site, Commissioner Stewart said:

REMARKS OF COMMISSIONER STEWART

"Mr. President and Gentlemen of the Commission: In behalf of New York State I receive this emblem. We shall erect here a building suitable for the great Empire State of New York. I wish to introduce to you Honorable James H. Callanan, of Schenectady, who will respond in behalf of the Commission."

Commissioner James H. Callanan then made the following address:

ADDRESS OF COMMISSIONER CALLANAN

"In behalf of the Commission representing the Commonwealth of New York, I take pleasure in accepting the site allotted for the Empire State's building at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. With this acceptance I beg you to receive the assurance from our Commission that New York will do her share to make the Exposition an unquestioned success. Upon this site we expect to erect a handsome and commodious structure where New Yorkers may meet one another during the Exposition, and where they may welcome their fellow citizens from every section of our common country. New York is also desirous of having exhibited here upon these spacious grounds the evidences of her prestige in the domain of manufacture, of commerce, of agriculture, of science and of art.

"The American people are progressive. The indomitable courage and ambition of the American knows no cessation of effort, no lagging behind. The expositions held in our country have celebrated great epochs of our advancement, and they will be pointed out to future generations as evidences of the onward march of a people unparalleled in the history of the human race.

"To these great achievements of a mighty people it is impossible to estimate the share contributed by the sturdy pioneers and their descendants of this vast tract of country, the cession of which more than doubled the area of our country a century ago. What great states have been carved out of this territory! What wonderful wealth of resources have been brought forth here! What a splendid citizenship has been established in this vast region! New York rejoices with you in the giant strides made by this newer section of our country.

"It certainly is most appropriate at this time when the republic is reaching out as a world power that we should celebrate the anniversary of the first great chapter in the history of our national expansion. Time has proven that Jefferson and his compeers built greater than they knew, for by that acquisition of territory there was developed a spirit of national progress that did not cease even when we first learned to know no superior among the nations of the earth.

"Representatives of half a dozen different nations met in the smoking room of an ocean liner sometime ago. It was suggested that each nation be toasted. An Englishman paid a glowing tribute to his country. A Frenchman lauded his nation and a Russian eulogized the land of the Czar. Then an American arose and said: 'Here is to the United States, bounded on the north by the North Pole, on the east by the rising sun, on the south by the South Pole, and on the west by the setting sun.' As he finished another American present requested that he be permitted to attempt an improvement on the toast given by his countryman, which request was granted. He then toasted the United States in this fashion: 'Here's to the United States, bounded on the north by the Aurora Borealis, on the east by infinite chaos, on the south by the procession of the Equinoxes, and on the west by the day of judgment.' This indeed is extravagant language, but that fellow possessed the American spirit which recognizes no limit to the possibilities of our future.

"I recognize that this is no occasion for state boasting. Each state, territory and American possession is unselfishly interested in the success of this Exposition. However, in connection with what New York is expected to do for this grand enterprise, you will pardon, I know, this very brief reference I make to New York's supremacy in population, in wealth, in manufactures and in commerce. I think it less than twenty years ago that New York was ahead in agricultural productions, too. Agricultural supremacy has been tending westward for nearly a half century, however, and we cheerfully surrender to your broad prairies. Iowa, Ohio and Illinois now outrank us in farm industry, the first once a part of the Louisiana tract and the other two cut from the Northwest Territory.

"An Eastern farmer on his first visit to the west asked his Western brother how it was that 'he could plow such straight furrows over such enormous fields.' 'That's easy,' said the native, 'we follow the parallels of latitude and the meridians of longitude.' That reply was significant. It demonstrates quite fully where agriculture is king in the United States.

"The end of the great strides that you are making here in the west is not in sight. Some day your population will be as dense as ours. Slowly, but steadily, the center of population is creeping westward and by another decade or so it will most likely cross the great Father of Waters and move across the land which Jefferson's genius gave to the republic. New York will be more powerful by reason of your greatness. Your increasing productions will contribute to our commercial prestige more and more as the years roll on to make our metropolis continue to be the greatest seaport on this continent for all time.

"We share your glory in more ways than this, too. Many of the sturdy men and women who have settled within the confines of this great region were native New Yorkers. Our blood has been mingled with yours and our children are first cousins of yours. New York gave to you because she could spare and you accepted of us because you wanted the best you could find.

"New York then bids the people of this section All Hail! We are with you heart and soul to make the Exposition a magnificent success. New York has never failed when a patriotic effort was demanded and as ever before she will now respond with enthusiasm and will do everything possible here to sustain her imperial position.

"Let us hope that the Exposition will accomplish all that is intended. Let our prayer be that all Americans who pass within the gates when all shall be made ready for the opening of this Exposition in 1904, will cherish a higher ambition and a greater love of country and be impelled to declare with the poet, that

"'There is a land of every land the pride, Beloved of Heaven, o'er all the world beside, where brighter suns dispense serener light, And milder moons imparadise the night. Oh, thou shalt find howe'er thy footsteps roam, That land thy country and that spot thy home.'"

At the conclusion of Commissioner Callanan's remarks the assemblage dispersed.

DEDICATION OF THE SITE

The site was formally dedicated at the time of the formal dedication ceremonies of the Exposition, the special ceremonies being held directly after the general exercises held in observance of State Day, on May 2, 1903. There were present Governor and Mrs. Odell, the Governor's staff, a joint committee of the Legislature, Exposition officials, members of the State Commission and invited guests.

Having assembled upon the site, William Berri, Vice-President of the Commission, addressed Governor Odell as follows:

ADDRESS BY VICE-PRESIDENT BERRI

"_Governor Odell_: It gives the New York State Commission to the Louisiana Purchase Exposition very great pleasure to have you present here to-day to participate in the simple exercises authorized by the Commission connected with the beginning of the work of construction of the New York State building which is to be erected upon this site. A more desirable grant of space on the Plateau of States could not have been made for us by the management of this Exposition, and we hope to place here a building that will add dignity to the location and worthily represent the State of New York in architectural beauty and practical usefulness. Your commission has been fortunate in securing for the architect Mr. Clarence Luce, and the plans and drawings which we have decided upon from his hand give promise of a structure that the State we represent will be proud of, and we shall also endeavor to so furnish it and utilize its facilities as to make it a serviceable and attractive addition to the large number of State buildings that are to be erected in its vicinity.

"Everything has to have a beginning, so we are here to-day to begin our work of actual construction, and it is specially fitting that we should have present the Governor of New York to assist in the ceremonies attendant therewith, for he has always heartily supported the project of the St. Louis Exposition and has furthered its interests on every occasion. Therefore, on behalf of the New York State Commission, I ask you, Governor Odell, to honor the great World's Fair of 1904 by performing the first actual work upon the structure we propose to erect by turning the first spadeful of earth for the State of New York and the New York State building."

The Governor responded briefly, commending the Commission for its work, predicting wonderful benefits to accrue from the Exposition and prophesying that New York would be at the forefront in all of its departments, after which he lifted the first spadeful of earth upon the site. He then handed the spade to Mrs. Odell, who lifted another sod; after which various ladies in the party performed the same act; at the conclusion of which the assemblage adjourned.

OPENING OF THE BUILDING

The building of the State of New York was the only building on the Terrace of States entirely ready for the reception of guests on the opening day of the Exposition. It was a structure thoroughly in keeping with the dignity and prestige of the great Empire State. Of marked simplicity in design, there was in its every line and appointment evidence of the utmost refinement and culture.

The building was planned primarily for the comfort, accommodation and convenience of visitors from the Empire State, for the holding of such functions as the Commission were required to give in the name of the State, and for the meetings of any associations or delegations from New York attending the Exposition. It contained no exhibits of any kind, all of the exhibits being placed in the main exhibit palaces under the proper subdivision of the official classification.

THE ARCHITECTURE

The building was pure Italian in style, surmounted by a low dome and surrounded by verandas and terraces. Through the main approach one entered a large hall sixty feet square, running the full height of the building, arched and domed in the Roman manner, with galleries around the second story. From this hall ascended the grand staircase, both to the left and to the right.

MURAL DECORATIONS

Under the four arches were handsome mural paintings, the work of Florian Peixotto, illustrating "De Soto Discovering the Mississippi," "The French and Indian Occupation," "New York in 1803," and "New York in 1903." The four pendentives which supported the dome contained emblematic pictures representing the four States most benefited by the Louisiana Purchase, Missouri, Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama. The lower hall was of the simple Doric order, and the staircase was augmented by two memorial columns surrounded by dancing groups beautifully modeled, each column surmounted by a light. To the right of the entrance hall, and separated from it only by huge pillars, was a large assembly hall fifty by sixty feet, which was used for receptions, dinners and other State functions given by the Commission. This hall was most richly decorated in old golds, Antwerp blues and siennas and, with its crystal chandeliers and barrel vaulted ceiling running up through the second story, was one of the most attractive features of the building. Beyond the grand hall were small dining rooms and serving rooms connected with the culinary department. To the left of the entrance hall were waiting rooms, writing rooms and retiring rooms for the accommodation of guests, while at the extreme south end of the building were two reading rooms, in which were on file the various daily papers of the State. But seldom were the reading rooms without visitors eagerly familiarizing themselves with what had happened at home subsequent to their departure. Also, on the first floor were coat rooms, a bureau of information, postoffice, telegraph and telephone offices.

OFFICES OF THE COMMISSION

The second floor contained the offices of the Commission, which were occupied by the Secretary and the clerical force, and also eight suites of rooms, consisting of parlor, bedroom and bath, for the accommodation of the members of the Commission and their guests. One of these suites, more handsomely furnished than the others, was called the "Governor's suite," and was reserved for his exclusive use. While not originally contemplated, the third floor in both the north and south ends of the building were finished and partitioned into rooms for the use of the attaches of the Commission. This increased the capacity of the building by eight rooms.

THE SCULPTURE

Eminent sculptors were employed to prepare the statuary for the building which was generally conceded to be as fine as any upon the Exposition grounds, being most admirably adapted to the building as to scale. There were two massive quadrigae flanking the dome typifying the "Progress of Art" and the "Progress of Commerce," which were the work of Phillip Martiny, to whom was also intrusted the work of preparing the elaborate group, crowding the main entrance to Festival Hall and entitled "Apollo and the Muses." About the huge columns flanking the steps which formed the approach and again about the columns at the foot of the grand staircase were dancing groups most gracefully modeled by Oscar L. Lenz. The same sculptor was also responsible for the figure of "Greeting" which stood in the lower niche at the north end of the building. The coat of arms of the State which appeared frequently in the scheme of decoration was by Allen G. Newman. The work of reproduction in staff of the models prepared by the artists was performed by Messrs. Barth & Staak.

THE LIGHTING

The lighting of the building throughout was by electricity, and was particularly effective in the main entrance hallway, in that the lights, for the most part, were concealed behind cornices giving a very soft effect, and displaying to the best advantage the mural paintings. Throughout the building electroliers of special design were used. In the main hallway they took the form of quaint Florentine lanterns which were particularly rich in modeling and were an important factor in the scheme of decoration.

THE FURNISHINGS

The furnishings were most appropriate and harmonious throughout, much of the furniture having been especially built for the place in which it was to stand. In the main hallway stood massive Florentine chairs and settees, with high backs, upholstered in mottled embossed leather, each bearing the coat of arms of the State. The waiting and writing rooms were appointed and finished in the same simple design which prevailed in the main hallway, light green being the dominating color, the furniture being of mahogany, upholstered in Bedford cord. The effect was most restful to the tired visitor who entered the rooms upon a warm summer day, and their popularity was attested by the number of Exposition visitors, both from New York and elsewhere, who sought their quiet and refreshing atmosphere to recover from the fatigue of Exposition sight seeing.

THE ARCHITECT

The entire work of designing the building, sculpture, decorations and furniture was intrusted to Mr. Clarence Luce, of 246 Fourth avenue, New York city. Thoroughly familiar with the traditions of the great Empire State, Mr. Luce made the work committed to him a matter of State as well as professional pride, and the result of his long experience, coupled with his artistic temperament and sound judgment, was a building to which each New Yorker pointed with the utmost pride and which each stranger praised unstintingly. The prompt completion of the work so thoroughly and satisfactorily done was a source of gratification to the Commission, who at the first meeting held in the building passed commendatory resolutions concerning Mr. Luce.

There were State buildings which represented an outlay of considerably more money, but none which typified the commonwealth for which it stood more thoroughly than did the New York State building.

THE RESTAURANT

A pleasant feature was a private restaurant, conducted by Messrs. Bayno & Pindat, of New York city, the former being the inventor of an electric range which was used in the preparation of food. The kitchen and commissary department was in the basement at the north end of the building. The privileges of the restaurant were by card only, and were extended to New Yorkers, Exposition officials and prominent Exposition visitors. The cuisine was most excellent, and throughout the season appetizing meals were served on the spacious verandas at the north end of the building, over which canopies had been erected, the illumination being furnished in the evening by electric lights, contained in Japanese lanterns. No restaurant upon the grounds enjoyed a greater popularity among those who were privileged to use it than did that of the New York State building.

THE ORGAN

To the Aeolian Company, of New York city, the Commission is indebted for one of the features of the building. This company placed a magnificent pipe organ in the east balcony of the rotunda, and in the gallery north of the grand hall, nearly 100 feet away, was installed an echo organ, while a set of cathedral chimes sounded softly from still another distant part of the building. All three instruments were under control of the organist at the console located upon the main floor of the entrance hall, and could be played either by hand or by music rolls manufactured by the Aeolian Company. The organ was equipped with an electric keyboard which permitted the playing of all three instruments or any single one, as the operator desired. The main instrument was contained in an artistic case, which, with its decorative ornament, was built by Charles and Jacob Blum, of New York city, and was an important enrichment of the hall.

Mr. S. H. Grover, a representative of the company, was in attendance throughout the summer and gave a recital each day at three o'clock in the afternoon. These recitals soon came to be a feature of the Exposition, and were largely attended by music lovers.

The program played on New York State day is given below, and is a fair specimen of the programs rendered throughout the season.

Overture, "Oberon" Von Weber Serenade Schubert The Nightingale Delibes Overture, "Stradella" Flotow Berceuse, "Jocelyn" Godard Selections, No. 11, "La Boheme" Puccini Am Meer Schubert Introduction, Act III, "Lohengrin" Wagner

THE PIANO

The Commission also acknowledges the courtesy of Steinway & Co. in placing in the State building one of the finest instruments ever turned out by this famous firm of piano builders. Its purity of tone and singing qualities were remarkable, and during the season several recitals were given upon it by eminent musicians. The piano was appropriately named "The Wave," illustrating as it did the wonderful waterways of the Empire State. The case was made of white hard maple, admirably adapted for fine carving. Some distance from the edge of the top the smooth surface commenced to take the undulations of the surface of water, gradually increasing in volume until the edge was reached, where the waves seemed to flow over in an irregular line down the sides, here and there forming panels. The three supports were composed of female figures sculptured in wood; one supported by a dolphin suggested the mythical origin of the harp, another was poised upon a dolphin's back, and the third was a water nymph nestled among the rocks and spray. The music desk contained a picture of sunrise on Lake Erie. All of the carving was colored with translucent greens and blues enhancing the graceful undulations and wave movements. The panels were all designed to illustrate some of the most important views of the waterways of New York State. The first represented New York harbor, the next East river spanned by Brooklyn bridge, another the Hudson, with its palisades. The panel over the rear support was a view of Albany, showing the Capitol on the hill at sunset; another showed Cohoes Falls and the Erie canal; the next contained a picture of Little Falls; the last being a picture of Buffalo harbor. On the top, as a fitting finale, was a large picture representing the American Falls at Niagara. Underneath the front half of the top was painted the coat of arms of the State.

THE STAFF

The State building was at all times in charge of a competent and obliging staff, which always stood ready to minister to the comfort and pleasure of the guests of the Empire State. Honorable Frank J. LeFevre, of New Paltz, was Superintendent. He performed the arduous duties of directing the actions of the force and attending to a multitude of details with cheerfulness and efficiency. He was ably assisted by George E. Cowper, of Olean, the Assistant Superintendent.

The social functions given in the name of the State Commission were directed by Mrs. Norman E. Mack, the lady member of the Commission, whenever she was present. In her absence the social duties fell upon Mrs. Dore Lyon, who invariably extended the State's hospitality with grace and tact. The assistant hostess, Mrs. F. P. Applebee, won many friends in the course of the season through her courteous treatment toward all guests. The comfort of the Commission and their house guests was admirably provided for by Miss Laura MacMartin, the matron.

Acknowledgment is also due to those who faithfully served the Commission in the State building in various capacities throughout the Exposition period.