CHAPTER XXIX

EXPENSIVE GAMES WITH LITTLE OR NO EXPENSE

Everybody plays

=Ping Pong=

Young and old alike enjoy the game whose object is merely to strike a small ball backward and forward over a net stretched across a table. If you have never played the game it will seem very simple, but upon first trial you will probably realize that keeping the ball in motion is not as easy as it appears, for, instead of returning over the net in an orderly manner, the ball shows an uncontrollable inclination to jump down on the floor and hide in some obscure corner, thereby causing the player to enter reluctantly into a game of hide-and-seek with the tantalizing little object. However, it requires only slight practice to gain control of the ball, and the game is then very fascinating.

Any girl may have a set of Ping Pong, for she can make it at the cost of

=Three Cents=

The only thing in the game necessary to purchase is a celluloid [Illustration: 175] ball, the price of which is three cents. Other implements needed are two rackets, a net, and the frame or stakes supporting the net. The racket can be manufactured from a piece of wooden box, or possibly a shingle [Illustration: Fig. 606.] which is sound and free from knots. Wood about a quarter of an inch thick, or more, is best for the purpose. Cut a paper pattern first as a guide for the shape of the racket. Take a piece of paper twelve and a quarter inches long and six wide; fold lengthwise through the centre and cut according to dotted lines in Fig. 604. Open the paper pattern and place it over the wood; with a lead-pencil draw a line completely around it, then carefully saw or cut out the racket, and smooth down the rough edges with sand-paper; make [Illustration: Fig 607.] [Illustration: Fig 608.] the second racket in the same manner. The head of the racket should be seven inches long and six wide, the handle five and a quarter inches long and a trifle over one inch wide (Fig. 605). Saw the stakes from the handle of an ordinary hearth-broom, or from any strong, slender round stick. Make each stake eight inches long and notch it at the top (Fig. 606). As a support for the stakes use a strip of board three inches wide, not more than one inch thick, and about four feet long. If you have no auger to make two holes in the board for the stakes, burn them through the centre of the ends with the red-hot point of a round poker (Fig. 607). Be careful not to make the holes too large, have them rather small, that the stakes when fitted in may be tight and firm. A strip of almost any kind of cloth six inches wide, hemmed top and bottom and cut long enough to stretch taut entirely across and above the board, when tied from stake to stake, may serve as a net. Mosquito netting or turkey-red cotton cloth make satisfactory strips; use whatever material is most convenient. Fig. 608 shows the net with two narrow tapes sewed at the four corners for tying it to top and bottom of the stakes. Stretch the net across the centre of a table, preferably a dining-room table, bring forth your rackets and ball, and practise playing Ping Pong with some friend, each standing at one end of the table (Fig. 609).

A retriever is sometimes used for picking up the ball when it falls to the floor, and, though not necessary, will be found very useful, especially for beginners. Get a strong, slender stick about a yard long and fasten a small hoop of metal or wood on one end by binding the turned-up ends [Illustration: Fig. 611.] of the hoop securely to the stick (Fig. 610). Test the fastening and be sure that it is firm and strong, and that the hoop does not wobble. Then sew a little cloth bag on the hoop (Fig. 611) and the next time the ball falls to the floor scoop it up with the retriever.

=The Rules=

are similar to lawn tennis, but there is no second service, as in lawn tennis.

The game of Ping Pong is generally for two, though four players may take part. The double game will afford great amusement if but two rackets are used, as the player must lay her racket down each time for her partner to use.

The player who first strikes the ball across the net is called the server and the other player is called the opponent. The idea of the game is to serve the ball so as to strike the table on the opposite side of the net. The ball is then in play. If it drops into the net, or does not strike the table, it counts in favor of the opponent.

The opponent to whom the ball is served must endeavor to return the ball over the net so that it will strike upon the table. The ball is thus sent back and forth until one player or the other fails to get it over the net so that it will bounce upon the opposite side of the table.

The ball is in play so long as it strikes the table-top and can be taken on the first bounce. Striking before the ball bounces is not allowed.

When the game is finished the server becomes opponent and the opponent server, and so on, alternately.

If the ball in play strikes any object above or round the table before it bounces on the table-top itself (net or post excepted) it counts against the player.

The server wins a stroke if the opponent fails to return the ball or returns the ball in play off the table.

The opponent wins a stroke if the server serve a fault, or fails to return the ball in play, or returns the ball in play so that it falls off the table.

No volleying is allowed; but as long as the ball touches the table-top it is in play and can be taken at half-volley. The opponent loses a point if he takes the ball on the volley.

The player who first wins six games wins a set.

The service must be strictly underhand and delivered from behind the end of the table.

=Scoring=

Your opponent scores—If you do not return the ball; if you strike the ball before it touches the table; if the ball bounces twice.

You score—If your opponent strike the ball out of play or bounces the ball his side of the net.

On either player winning his first stroke, the score is called 15 for that player; on either player winning his second stroke, the score is called 30 for that player; on either player winning his third stroke, the score is called 40 for that player, and the fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for that player, except when both players have won three strokes (40 all); the score is then called deuce, and the next stroke won by either player is scored advantage to that player. If the same player wins the next stroke, he wins the game; if he loses the next stroke, the score is again called deuce, and so on, until either player wins the two strokes immediately following the score of deuce, when the game is scored for that player. In naming the score the server is always mentioned first, for convenience, as 30-15, signifying 30 for server and 15 for opponent.

=Terms Used in Ping Pong=

_Let_ means that the ball, while being served, touches the net in passing over, and the server has the privilege of serving again. If the opponent makes a let stroke it counts, the same as if the ball had cleared the net.

_Volleying_ means striking the ball before it bounces.

_Half-volleying_ means striking the ball just as it bounces.

_Underhand stroke_ means striking the ball with the head of the racket pointed downward.

_Overhand stroke_ means striking the ball with the head of the racket pointed upward.

_All_ means same score for both players—as 30 all, meaning 30 for server and 30 for opponent.

_Deuce_ means a tie.

=The Game=

Begin by taking plenty of time and serving slowly. Remember to strike the ball lightly; too much force will send it flying to the other end of the room, which is to be avoided. Keep cool and think what you are doing.

Your mind must be centred entirely upon the game. Grasp your racket close to the head, and when serving keep your racket down; the ball must not be held above the waistline and must be served beyond the end of the table.

The writer once knew,

=A Little Girl who was Very Fond of Playing=

out of doors, and when confined to the house by inclement weather, a bad cold, or some other disagreeable thing, was very apt to grow restless and fretful, complaining always that she did not know what to do. She had any quantity of beautiful toys, but, as she said, she was tired of them all.

Then it was that the family would induce her to try to make something for herself, and when once she became interested in her work, and found that by her own ingenuity she could manufacture, from odds and ends, many interesting little toys, her restlessness vanished, and she was once more cheerful, happy, and contented.

At one time she had a book presented to her which gave the patterns and directions for making a few little articles—a very few it seemed to her, for she speedily did all the work laid out there, and was again thrown on her own resources for new ideas.

A Make-believe Sewing-machine

When she was quite a small child, too young to be allowed to sew on a real sewing-machine, she constructed a machine which, with the aid of her imagination, did very good work. Of course she could not really sew on it, but neither could she have done so had it been a “sure-enough” sewing-machine, and there was sufficient reality about it to make her play very absorbing.

The small wheels on top went round with a whiz and a whirr that filled her soul with delight. There were two wheels, because they were the remnants of a mechanical toy, a horse and sulky, which was once driven by a handsome tin jockey. The horse and jockey were gone, but the wheels and machinery remained. The key to the clock-like works was likewise missing, but it was very easy to wind up the spring by turning one of the wheels round and round a number of times. Once wound up, the wheels were bound to go until the machinery ran down again, and it was while going at full speed that the pretended sewing was done.

No, these two wheels were not all of the sewing-machine by any means. There was the arm made of pasteboard, with needle attached, which, shaken by the vibration of the turning wheels, moved up and down quite naturally. All this was on top of a small table, underneath was the treadle made of the back of an old geography laid across a piece of kindling wood. The treadle would sometimes slip out of place with the rapid movement of the little girl’s feet, but that was of no consequence, since it was only the work of a moment to replace it. The fact that there was no large wheel mattered nothing either, for the little seamstress felt her feet moving up and down, saw the wheels whirling on top, and was satisfied without a wheel that could not be seen anyway.

The sewing-machine was such an ambitious idea that it required some imagination to carry it out successfully, but there were other things this little girl made which were quite complete in themselves, such as toy houses, furniture, and dolls.

Knowing how thankfully this same little maid received any suggestions which would assist her in the manufacture of her home-made toys, I take it for granted there are other children who will be just as grateful for new ideas and who are just as happy in carrying them out. If you happen to be such a little girl, you will be glad to learn about this impromptu game of croquet which you can make for yourself in half an hour and enjoy the use of for many a long day.

=To Make a Parlor Croquet Set=

Diagram No. 612 shows the arches, of which there must be nine, all made of wire bent in the shape you see, with each of the ends thrust into a button-mould. To prevent the wire from slipping out, fill the holes with beeswax, and then push the wire in; this will make the arches quite strong and steady.

The mallets, as shown, are made of empty spools, with long wire nails driven in for handles. The stakes are made of wire nails stuck in button-moulds, like the one seen at the bottom of diagram No. 612. You will need two stakes and four mallets. Marbles, all of the same kind, but with different markings, take the places of croquet balls.

Not an expensive set of croquet, surely. The spools, wire, button-moulds, and nails you will probably find in the house, and the marbles also, if you happen to have a small brother; if not, you can buy them seven for one cent.

=How to Arrange the Game=

The parlor croquet should be played on a good-sized table covered with a woollen cloth. Place the stakes and arches in the position shown in diagram No. 613. Let the stakes stand forty inches apart. Place arch No. 1 four inches from the starting stake, arch No. 2 four inches from No. 1, arch No. 3 eight inches to the right and one inch in advance of No. 2, arch No. 4 twelve inches in advance of and on a line with No. 2. Begin at the other stake and place the arches at the same relative distances.

=Rules for Playing=

First—The object of the game is for each player to send her ball through each arch in turn, beginning at No. 1 and using her mallet for striking her ball. When a ball has passed through arches Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7, according to their numbers, it must strike the stake just beyond No. 7, then returning through arches 7 and 6, it must move on through No. 8, through No. 4 again in the direction opposite to the one taken in its first passage; then through arches Nos. 9, 2 and 1, striking the stake to “go out,” and the first player to do this wins the game.

Second—To decide who shall open the game, or be the first to play, each player in turn shall place her ball (marble) directly under the first arch and play for the stake. The one whose ball, after playing, stands nearest the stake has the privilege of the first turn, the next nearest the second turn, and so on.

Third—The first play with each ball shall be made after placing it half way between the starting stake and arch No. 1, and the player may aim for the arch or any ball which has entered the game, or may send her ball in any direction she may choose.

Fourth—A ball failing to make its first arch must remain where it rests until next turn; passing through its arch gives the player another play.

Fifth—When a ball strikes another the player may croquet or roquet the ball in any direction she wishes, and then have another play. No ball may croquet or roquet another more than once in one turn unless it passes through an arch or strikes the stake between the croquets.

To croquet a ball the player places her ball touching the one it has just struck; then, resting her finger on her own ball to hold it steady, she strikes her ball with her mallet, sending the other in any desired direction. To roquet a ball the player places her ball touching the one just struck and strikes her ball, moving them both at the same time.

Sixth—A ball rolling off the table must be replaced at the point where it went off two inches from the edge.

Seventh—When a ball has passed through all of the arches it becomes a “rover,” and need not strike the starting stake and go out until the player wishes. A rover has the privilege of croqueting or roqueting any or all of the other balls in each turn, but may play on each ball only once during one turn.

Eighth—The game may be played with partners, or each may play for herself. When there are partners each side takes a turn alternately.