CHAPTER III

A PAPER EASTER

Even play eggs manufactured of paper have many possibilities. Of course, all girls would rather make these for themselves than to buy them, be the trifles ever so beautiful; for, after all, the purchased eggs can only be looked at and then put away. You cannot have any real sport with them; cannot take them apart and put them together again any more than “all the king’s horses and all the king’s men” could restore “Humpty Dumpty” after his fall; nor can you change these designs from one thing to another, each complete in itself. Only the home-made Easter egg admits of such manipulation. It is an Enchanted Egg and from it can be made

=An Ostrich, Rabbit, Penguin, and Rooster=

To make the egg, cut from medium-weight water-color paper two egg-shaped designs, Fig. 80; in one of these cut two slits exactly like Fig. 81; lay this over the second paper egg, being very careful to have the two perfectly fitted, and with a pin-prick mark the ends of the slits of the top egg into the under one; stick the pin entirely through, first at one end and then at the other of each slit; remove the top egg and draw a straight line from pin-point to pin-point of the upper and then of the lower slit; these lines are guides and render it easy to cut the slits to correspond with those in the first egg. The two eggs must be exactly alike, as they are in reality the two sides of one egg. Trace the markings of Fig. 82 on one egg and spread strong paste sparingly over the darkened portion, not allowing it to extend in the least across the boundary lines, for the white spaces must be left free, that they may form openings or pockets. Again fit the two sides together (the paste will cause them to adhere), and place the egg under a few books, or some other weight, to dry, and in a little while it will be ready for transformation.

=Changing an Egg Into a Rooster=

Trace the rooster’s head (Fig. 83), his tail (Fig. 84), his wings (Fig. 85), and his foot (Fig. 86), on the water-color paper. Make two feet and two wings; either paint the natural markings or indicate them with ink on the different parts, then slide the head in the large end of the egg at D, Fig. 82, fitting it in between the two sides according to the line drawn above [Illustration: Fig. 87.] the letter D on neck of rooster. In the same way place the tail in the egg at the small end, A, Fig. 82; fit the wings in, one on each side, at the slit E; notice that each wing is cut on both sides of the extension E, to bring the top edges of the wings up higher, when they are in position, than their central top portions. Slide the feet in the slit F, one on each side, slightly bending them out from each other; the rooster (Fig. 87) will then stand alone when it is placed on a level surface.

=A Rabbit from the Egg=

After the rooster has served its day remove the different parts and leave the egg as it was at first. We are now ready to construct a rabbit. Make the head (Fig. 88), the tail (Fig. 89), one fore foot (Fig. 90), and two hind legs (Fig. 91), of the same water-color paper. Carefully slip the head in the small end of the egg, Fig. 82, A, and place the tail down low in the large end of D; the piece which represents the fore feet—it should be painted to look like two, one slightly back of the other—is placed at the opening B, and the hind legs are fastened on each side of the egg in the upper slits E. Bend the hind legs out a trifle and stand the little rabbit on its feet (Fig. 92). If you wish you can copy the markings on this one and make your rabbit look as natural as possible. All the animals that you make should be white, except the penguin, as the white egg forms the body of each one.

=The Egg Develops Into an Ostrich=

In order to hatch the ostrich change the rabbit back again to an egg. Cut from light-weight card-board the head (Fig. 93), and the two legs (Figs. 94 and 95); these must be stiff and strong: you will notice that the legs are not bent alike. Use water-color paper for the two wings (Fig. 96) and a tail (Fig. 97). The wings and tail should look as much like ostrich-plumes as you are able to make them. Slide the extension of the neck, Fig. 93, D, into the upper part of the large end of the egg, D, Fig. 82, and the extension of the tail into the small end, A, fitting it in according to the line on the tail drawn around A; slip a wing into each side of the egg at the slits E, and finally fasten the legs, one on each side, in the slits F. Slightly bend the legs outward and adjust them so they will balance the body perfectly; the ostrich is now able to stand alone and will even appear to be walking (Fig. 98).

=To Hatch a Penguin from the Egg=

Make the head like Fig. 99. A is the portion which must be placed in the small end of the egg, A, Fig. 82, allowing the lower curve of the head, K, to extend down over the egg. Cut from very stiff writing-paper a like curve, and paste it in position on the other side of the head, where it should hang free: only the top edge of the piece being fastened on the head in order that the curve may easily slip down over the other side of the egg. This will make both sides of the bird appear alike. Fold a piece of writing-paper, and from it cut Fig. 100; the straight fold extends from O to U. Carefully fasten together the open edges of the back from T to O and from U to P; gluing them on the extreme edges, that the pocket thus formed may be as large as possible. Take stiff paper for Figs. 101 and 102, which are the feet and tail of the bird, the extension X of Fig. 102 forming the tail. Leave the eyes and mouth white, and paint the remainder of the head black; also blacken the wings and back, Fig. 100, and the feet and tail. Place the head in the small end of the egg, A, with the curves K down over the white egg on each side; then put on the little fellow’s overcoat, or back, Fig. 100, fitting it over the sides, F, Fig. 81, of the egg; push the egg or body of the penguin in the pocket formed in the back of the overcoat, and shove the feet into the large end of the egg, D, Fig. 82. Hold the lower edges of the egg firmly together while you bend out the feet sufficiently to enable the penguin to stand alone, Fig. 103.

These little creatures should be made so carefully that either side will be presentable. It is always distressing to know that “the other side” does not look real, and it is a great satisfaction to be able to show both sides of our work to our friends and know there is no “wrong side” in what we do. If you can manage to paint the designs in water-colors they will look best, but even when marked with black ink the little animals are charming; no adequate idea can be gained of this fascinating Easter egg until all the different parts have been made and the egg changed from one to another of the various life-like little creatures. The egg has been so planned that the wings come down and cover the tops of the legs of both rooster and ostrich; the penguin and rabbit need no such cover, as the rabbit’s legs fit in naturally, and those of the penguin merely slide up in the egg. A little practice will enable you to perform the work skilfully.

Butterflies are also emblems used for Easter. The beautiful fairy-like creature changing in its close, gloomy chrysalis from an insignificant little worm to the radiant winged creature of the air, fitly typifies the Resurrection. Did you ever find a chrysalis and after examining it lay it carefully aside, to await the development of the life within, and some bright morning discover the shell broken and empty, while in the room fluttered a brightly colored butterfly? If so, you will enjoy all the more

=The Butterfly That Will Fly=

and which we will manufacture of tissue-paper.

Take four pieces of tissue-paper—yellow, red, blue, and white—and cut each according to Fig. 104. The shape is not exactly that of a real butterfly, but when made of paper it proves more satisfactory, because such butterflies fly far better when cut in this way. Fasten a fine black thread through the back of each butterfly (Fig. 105); bend the wings up a little and tie, or fasten with bits of court-plaster, the loose ends of the threads on a round stick, placing them at a distance of about four inches apart. Let the threads vary in length from six to thirteen inches; this will bring the butterflies at different distances from the stick. When all is ready stand about forty-five inches from and in direct line with a register built in the side wall next to the floor; [Illustration: Fig. 105.] hold the stick, with the butterflies attached, up and out horizontally fifty or more inches from the floor. The gentle heat will cause the brilliant little things to flutter up and down, this way and that, in a most natural manner; the fine black threads being practically invisible, the butterflies appear as if floating in the air without aid from any source.

You might try the experiment of taking them out-of-doors; if the breeze is not too strong, the butterflies will behave in the most approved manner, which you know all about, having so often watched the graceful movements of the beautiful live insects during the long summer days.

Perhaps the most charming of all Easter offerings is

=The Easter Lily=

Everyone strives to have a lily on Easter day. If you are unable to obtain one of the beautiful, fresh flowers, do the next best thing; make a lily—a stately, graceful white blossom on a long, dark-green stalk. The flower is lovely even when manufactured of tissue-paper, and can be made to look so natural that one almost expects to find the sweet, delicate perfume of the real blossom. The paper plant has one advantage at least over the natural one: it lasts much longer and needs no care to keep it fresh. From a new, smooth sheet of white tissue-paper cut six petals (Fig. 106); fold each lengthwise through its centre and bend or curl the top into a slight curve to take away the stiffness (Fig. 107); then cut Fig. 108 of unruled white writing-paper. Paint both sides of the stigma or top a greenish yellow and the style or stem-like portion a pale Nile-green. Bend the style up flat against the scalloped stigma according to the dotted line in Fig. 108. Allow an eighth of an inch and bend the style back again, which will make a little tuck in the style, bringing it exactly in the centre of the scalloped stigma when it is straightened out (Fig. 109). Fold each of the three scallops of the stigma through its centre and bend them down (Fig. 109); this finishes the pistil.

Make six stamens according to the pattern (Fig. 110); paint the anthers or tops orange color on both sides, and the supports or stems a very light green—as you remember those in the natural flower. Bend the supports in the same way as you did the style of the pistil, and slightly curve the orange-colored anthers. These should seemingly balance directly on the tip-top of the supports (Fig. 111). With strong paste fasten the pistils and stamens on the end of a stick which has previously been covered with dark olive-green tissue-paper (Fig. 112); then paste on three of the white petals (Fig. 113). Use paste sparingly, and be careful to arrange the petals evenly before adding the remaining three (Fig. 114), which should be placed one over each space between the first three petals. Fig. 115 will make the idea plainer. The petals numbered 1, 2, 3 represent the first three; the other three alternate with these, coming back of and between them as in the corolla (Fig. 115). Should the last petals incline to droop, attach them to the inner ones about midway up with a very little paste.

Take a strip of olive-green paper and cut it according to the dotted lines in Fig. 116; slightly curve each leaf in the hollow of your hand by rolling the round head of a hat-pin down its centre; when finished wind the strips of foliage around the lily stalk (Fig. 114). Have the stalk quite long, [Illustration: Fig. 115.] [Illustration: Fig. 116.] a short one does not look well. If you desire buds as well as blossoms, cut squares of white tissue-paper (Fig. 117); roll each paper (Fig. 118), fold down the top ends a trifle and pinch up both ends; then pull the bud into proper shape (Fig. 119). Paste the pinched tops together and fasten the lower end of the bud on a green-covered wire (Fig. 120).

You can make smaller buds for the top and have the larger, which represent buds ready to open and blossom, bent as in Fig. 120. To make a stalk bearing buds and several blossoms, instead of building the flowers on the end of a stick, fasten each blossom and each [Illustration: Fig. 117.] bud on a separate wire which has first been covered with green tissue-paper; then bind the small buds on the top of the long green stalk with thread or fine wire. Next fasten on the larger buds, afterwards the blossoms, and when all are arranged satisfactorily wind the green foliage around the stalk (Fig. 114), and it will all look very beautiful and natural. The lilies may be placed in a tall glass vase or the end of the stalk pushed into the earth in a real flower-pot, and at a short distance it will have the appearance of a growing plant.