Part 4
Fryday a foggie morning, but after cleare and wind calme. We saw many scools of mackrill, infinite multitudes on every side our ship. The sea was abundantly stored with rockweed and yellow flowers like gilly-flowers. By noon we were within 3 leagues of Capan, and as we sayled along the coasts we saw every hill and dale and every island full of gay woods and high trees. The nearer we came to the shoare the more flowers in abundance, sometymes scattered abroad, sometymes joyned in sheets 9 or 10 yards long, which we supposed to be brought from the low meadowes by the tyde. Now what with fine woods and greene trees by land, and these yellow flowers paynting the sea, made us all desirous to see our new paradise of New England, whence we saw such forerunning signals of fertilitie afarre off. Coming neare the harbour towards night we takt about for sea-roome.
[Sidenote: [27]]
Saturday a foggie morning; but after 8 o’clocke in the morning very cleare, the wind being somewhat contrary at So. and by West, we tackt to and againe with getting little; but with much adoe, about 4 o’clock in the afternoone, having with much payne compassed the harbour, and being ready to enter the same, see how things may suddenly change! there came a fearfull gust of wind and rayne and thunder and lightning, whereby we were borne with no little terrour and trouble to our mariners, having very much adoe to loose downe the sayles when the fury of the storme held up. But God be praised it lasted but a while and soone abated agayne. And hereby the Lord shewed us what he could have done with us, if it had pleased him. But blessed be God, he soone removed this storme and it was a fayre and sweet evening.
We had a westerly wind which brought us between 5 and 6 o’clock to a fyne and sweet harbour,[4] 7 miles from the head point of Capan. This harbour 20 ships may easily ryde therein, where there was an island whither four of our men with a boate went, and brought backe agayne ripe strawberries and gooseberries, and sweet single roses. Thus God was merciful to us in giving us a tast and smell of the sweet fruit as an earnest of his bountiful goodnes to welcome us at our first arrivall. This harbour was two leagues and something more from the harbour at Naimkecke, where our ships were to rest, and the plantation is already begun. But because the passage is difficult and night drew on, we put into Capan harbour.
[Sidenote: [28]]
The Sabbath, being the first we kept in America, and the 7th Lord’s day after we parted with England.
[Sidenote: [29]]
Monday we came from Capan, to go to Naimkecke, the wind northerly. I should have tould you before that the planters spying our English colours the Governour sent a shalop with 2 men on Saturday to pilot us. These rested the Sabbath with us at Capan; and this day, by God’s blessing and their directions, we passed the curious and difficult entrance into the large spacious harbour of Naimkecke. And as we passed along it was wonderful to behould so many islands replenished with thicke wood and high trees, and many fayre greene pastures. And being come into the harbour we saw the George to our great comfort then being come on Tuesday which was 7 daies before us. We rested that night with glad and thankful hearts that God had put an end to our long and tedious journey through the greatest sea in the world.
[Sidenote: [30]]
The next morning the governour came aboard to our ship, and bade us kindly welcome, and invited me and my wiffe to come on shoare, and take our lodging in his house, which we did accordingly.
* * * * *
Thus you have a faithful report collected from day to day of all the particulars that were worth noting in our passage.
* * * * *
Now in our passage divers things are remarkeable.
* * * * *
First, through God’s blessing our passage was short and speedy, for whereas we had 1000 leagues, that is 3000 miles English, to saile from Ould to New England, we performed the same in 6 weeks and 3 dayes.
Secondly, our passage was comfortable and easie for the most part, having ordinarily fayre and moderate wind, and being freed for the most part from stormie and rough seas, saving one night only, which we that were not used thought to be more terrible than indeed it was, and this was Wednesday at night May 27th.
Thirdly, our passage was also healthfull to our passengers, being freed from the great contagion of the scurvie and other maledictions, which in other passages to other places had taken away the lives of many. And yet we were in all reason in wonderful danger all the way, our ship being greatly crowded with passengers; but through God’s great goodness we had none that died of the pockes but that wicked fellow that scorned at fasting and prayer. There were indeed 2 little children, one of my owne and another beside; but I do not impute it meerely to the passage; for they were both very sickly children, and not likely to have lived long, if they had not gone to sea. And take this for a rule, if children be healthfull when they come to sea, the younger they are the better they will endure the sea, and are not troubled with sea-sicknes as older people are, as we had experience in many children that went this voyage. My wiffe indeed, in tossing weather, was something ill by vomiting, but in calme weather she recovered agayne, and is now much better for the sea sicknes. And for my owne part, whereas I have for divers yeares past been very sickly and ready to cast up whatsoever I have eaten, and was very sicke at London and Gravesend, yet from the tyme I came on shipboard to this day, I have been straungely healthfull. And now I can digest our ship diett very well, which I could not when I was at land. And indeed in this regard I have great cause to give God praise, that he hath made my coming to be a method to cure me of a wonderful weake stomacke and continual payne of melancholly wynd from the splene: Also divers children were sicke of the small pockes, but are safely recovered agayne, and 2 or 3 passengers towards the latter end of the voyage fell sicke of the scurvie, but coming to land recovered in a short tyme.
Fourthly, our passage was both pleasurable and profitable. For we received instruction and delight in behoulding the wonders of the Lord in the deepe waters, and sometimes seeing the sea round us appearing with a terrible countenance, and as it were full of high hills and deepe vallyes; and sometimes it appeared as a most plain and even meadow. And ever and anon we saw divers kynds of fishes sporting in the great waters, great grampuses and huge whales going by companies and puffing up water-streames. Those that love their owne chimney corner, and dare not go farre beyond their owne townes end shall neever have the honour to see these wonderfull workes of Almighty God.
Fifthly, we had a pious and christian-like passage; for I suppose passengers shall seldom find a company of more religious, honest and kynd seamen than we had. We constantly served God morning and evening by reading and expounding a chapter, singing, and prayer. And the Sabbath was solemnely kept by adding to the former, preaching twise and catechising. And in our great need we kept 2 solemne fasts, and found a gracious effect. Let all that love and use fasting and praying take notise that it is as prevaileable by sea as by land, wheresoever it is faithfully performed. Besides the ship master and his company used every night to sett their 8 and 12 a clocke watches with singing a psalme and prayer that was not read out of a booke. This I wryte not for boasting and flattery; but for the benefit of those that have a mynd to come to New England hereafter, that if they looke for and desyre to have as prosperous a voyage as we had, they may use the same meanes to attayne the same. So letting passe our passage by sea, we will now bring our discourse to land on the shoare of New England, and I shall by God’s assistance endeavour to speake nothing but the naked truth, and both acquaint you with the commodities and discommodities of the country.
NEW-ENGLANDS PLANTATION
_&c._
NEW-ENGLANDS PLANTATION
OR,
A SHORT AND TRVE DESCRIPTION OF THE COMMODITIES AND DISCOMMODITIES of that Countrey.
Written by M^r _Higgeson_, a reuerend Diuine now there resident.
Whereunto is added a Letter, sent by M^r _Graues_ an Enginere, out of _New England_.
_The third Edition, enlarged._
LONDON.
Printed by _T._ and _R. Cotes_ for _Michael Sparke_, dwelling at the Signe of the _Blue Bible_ in _Greene-Arbor_, 1630.
To the Reader.
_Reader, doe not disdaine to reade this Relation: and looke not here to haue a large Gate and no building within: a full-stuffed Tittle with no matter in the Booke: But here reade the truth, and that thou shalt find without any frothy bumbasting words, or any quaint new-deuised additions, onely as it was written (not intended for the Presse) by a reuerend Diuine now there liuing, who onely sent it to some Friends here, which were desirous of his Relations; which is an Epitomy of their proceedings in the Plantation. And for thy part if thou meanest to be no Planter nor Venturer doe but lend thy good Prayers for the furtherance of it. And so I rest a Well-Wisher to all the good designes both of them which are gone, and of them that are to goe._
M. S.
NEW-ENGLANDS _PLANTATION_.
Letting passe our Voyage by Sea, we will now begin our discourse on the shore of _New-England_. And because the life and wel-fare of euery Creature heere below, and the commodiousnesse of the Countrey whereas such Creatures liue, doth by the most wise ordering of Gods prouidence, depend next vnto himselfe, vpon the temperature and disposition of the foure Elements, Earth, Water, Aire, and Fire (For as of the mixture of all these, all sublunary things are composed; so by the more or lesse injoyment of the wholesome temper and conuenient vse of these, consisteth the onely well-being both of Man and Beast in a more or lesse comfortable measure in all Countreys vnder the Heauens) Therefore I will indeauour to shew you what _New-England_ is by the consideration of each of these apart, and truly indeauour by Gods helpe to report nothing but the naked truth, and that both to tell you of the discommodities as well as of the commodities, though as the idle Prouerbe is, _Trauellers may lye by autoritie_, and so may take too much sinfull libertie that way. Yet I may say of my selfe as once _Nehemiah_ did in another case: _Shall such a Man as I lye?_ No verily: It becommeth not a Preacher of Truth to be a Writer of Falshod in any degree: and therefore I haue beene carefull to report nothing of _new England_ but what I haue partly seene with mine owne Eyes, and partly heard and inquired from the mouths of verie honest and religious persons, who by liuing in the Countrey a good space of time haue had experience and knowledge of the state thereof, & whose testimonies I doe beleeue as my selfe.
First therefore of the Earth of _New-England_ and all the appertenances thereof: It is a Land of diuers and sundry sorts all about _Masathulets_ Bay, and at _Charles_ Riuer is as fat blacke Earth as can be seene any where: and in other places you haue a clay soyle, in other grauell, in other sandy, as it is all about our Plantation at _Salem_, for so our Towne is now named, _Psal._ 76. 2.
The forme of the Earth here in the superficies of it is neither too flat in the plainnesse, nor too high in Hils, but partakes of both in a mediocritie, and fit for Pasture, or for Plow or meddow ground, as Men please to employ it: though all the Countrey bee as it were a thicke Wood for the generall, yet in diuers places there is much ground cleared by the _Indians_, and especially about the Plantation: and I am told that about three miles from vs a Man may stand on a little hilly place and see diuers thousands of acres of ground as good as need to be, and not a Tree in the same. It is thought here is good Clay to make Bricke and Tyles and Earthen-Pot as need to be. At this instant we are setting a Bricke-Kill on worke to make Brickes and Tyles for the building of our Houses. For Stone, here is plentie of Slates at the Ile of Slate in _Masathulets_ Bay, and Lime-stone, Free-stone, and Smooth-stone, and Iron-stone, and Marble-stone also in such store, that we haue great Rocks of it, and a Harbour hard by. Our Plantation is from thence called Marble-harbour.
Of Minerals there hath yet beene but little triall made, yet we are not without great hope of being furnished in that Soyle.
The fertilitie of the Soyle is to be admired at, as appeareth in the aboundance of Grasse that groweth euerie where both verie thicke, verie long, and verie high in diuers places: but it groweth verie wildly with a great stalke and a broad and ranker blade, because it neuer had been eaten with Cattle, nor mowed with a Sythe, and seldome trampled on by foot. It is scarce to be beleeued how our Kine and Goats, Horses and Hogges doe thriue and prosper here and like well of this Countrey.
In our Plantation we haue already a quart of Milke for a penny: but the aboundant encrease of Corne proues this Countrey to bee a wonderment. Thirtie, fortie, fiftie, sixtie are ordinarie here: yea _Joseph’s_ encrease in _Ægyt_ is out-stript here with vs. Our planters hope to haue more then a hundred fould this yere: and all this while I am within compasse; what will you say of two hundred fould and vpwards? It is almost incredible what great gaine some of our English Planters haue had by our Indian Corne. Credible persons haue assured me, and the partie himselfe auouched the truth of it to me, that of the setting of 13 gallons of Corne hee hath had encrease of it 52 Hogsheads, euery Hogshead holding seuen Bushels of _London_ measure, and euery Bushell was by him sold and trusted to the _Indians_ for so much Beauer as was worth 18 shillings; and so of this 13 Gallons of Corne which was worth 6 shillings 8 pence, he made about 327 pounds of it in the yeere following, as by reckoning will appeare: where you may see how God blessed husbandry in this Land. There is not such greate and plentifull eares of Corne I suppose any where else to bee found but in this Country: because also of varietie of colours, as red, blew, and yellow, &c. and of one Corne there springeth foure or fiue hundred. I haue sent you many Eares of diuers colours that you might see the truth of it.
Little Children here by setting of Corne may earne much more then their owne maintenance.
They haue tryed our _English_ Corne at new _Plimmouth_ Plantation, so that all our seuerall Graines will grow here verie well, and haue a fitting Soyle for their nature.
Our Gouernor hath store of greene pease growing in his garden as good as euer I eat in _England_.
This Countrey aboundeth naturally with store of rootes of great varietie and good to eat. Our Turnips, Parsnips and Carrots are here both bigger and sweeter then is ordinarily to bee found in _England_. Here are store of Pumpions, Cowcombers, and other things of that nature which I know not. Also diuers excellent Pot-herbs grow abundantly among the Grasse, as Strawberrie leaues in all places of the Countrey, and plentie of strawberries in their time, and Penyroyall, Wintersauerie, Sorrell, Brookelime, Liuerwort, Caruell and Watercresses, also Leekes and Onions are ordinarie, and diuers Physicall Herbs. Here are also aboundance of other sweet Hearbs delightfull to the smell, whose names we know not, &c. and plentie of single Damaske Roses verie sweete; and two kinds of Herbes that beare two kinds of Flowers very sweet, which they say, are as good to make Cordage or Cloath as any Hempe or Flaxe we haue.
Excellent Vines are here vp and downe in the Woodes. Our Gouernour hath already planted a Vineyard with great hope of encrease.
Also, Mulberries, Plums, Raspberries, Corrance, Chesnuts, Filberds, Walnuts, Smalnuts, Hurtleberies, & Hawes of Whitethorne neere as good as our Cherries in _England_, they grow in plentie here.
For Wood there is no better in the World I thinke, here being foure sorts of Oke differing both in the Leafe, Timber, and Colour, all excellent good. There is also good Ash, Elme, Willow, Birch, Beech, Saxafras, Juniper, Cipres, Cedar, Spruce, Pines, & Firre that will yeeld abundance of Turpentine, Pitch, Tarre, Masts and other materials for building both of Ships and Houses. Also here are store of Sumacke Trees, they are good for dying and tanning of Leather, likewise such trees yeeld a precious Gem called Wine Benjamen, that they say is excellent for perfumes. Also here be diuers Roots and Berries wherewith the _Indians_ dye excellent holding colours that no raine nor washing can alter. Also, wee haue materials to make Sope-Ashes and Salt-Peter in aboundance.
For Beasts there are some Beares, and they say some Lyons also; for they haue been seen at Cape _Anne_. Also here are seuerall sorts of Deere, some whereof bring three or foure young ones at once, which is not ordinarie in _England_. Also Wolues, Foxes, Beauers, Otters, Martins, great wild Cats, & a great Beast called a Molke as bigge as an Oxe. I haue seen the Skins of all these Beasts since I came to this Plantation excepting Lyons. Also here are great store of squerrels, some greater, and some smaller and lesser: there are some of the lesser sort, they tell me, that by a certaine Skill will fly from Tree to Tree though they stand farre distant.
_Of the Waters of_ New-England, _with the things belonging to the same._
_New-England_ hath Water enough both salt and fresh, the greatest Sea in the World, the _Atlanticke_ Sea runs all along the Coast thereof. There are abundance of Ilands along the Shore, some full of Wood and Mast to feed Swine; and others cleere of Wood, and fruitfull to beare Corne. Also wee haue store of excellent harbours for Ships, as at Cape _Anne_, and at _Masathulets_ Bay, and at _Salem_, and at many other places: and they are the better because for Strangers there is a verie difficult and dangerous passage into them, but vnto such as are well acquainted with them, they are easie and safe enough. The aboundance of Sea-Fish are almost beyond beleeuing, and sure I should scarce haue beleeued it, except I had seene it with mine owne Eyes. I saw great store of Whales, and Crampusse, and such aboundance of Mackerils that it would astonish one to behold, likewise Cod-Fish in aboundance on the Coast, and in their season are plentifully taken. There is a Fish called a Basse, a most sweet & wholesome Fish as euer I did eate, it is altogether as good as our fresh Sammon, and the season of their comming was begun when wee came first to _New-England_ in _June_, and so continued about three months space. Of this Fish our Fishers take many hundreds together, which I haue seene lying on the shore to my admiration; yea their Nets ordinarily take more then they are able to hale to Land, and for want of Boats and Men they are constrained to let a many goe after they haue taken them, and yet sometimes they fill two Boates at a time with them. And besides Basse wee take plentie of Scate and Thornbacks, and abundance of Lobsters, and the least Boy in the Plantation may both catch and eat what he will of them. For my owne part I was soone cloyed with them, they were so great, and fat, and lussious. I haue seene some my selfe that haue weighed 16 pound, but others haue had diuers times so great Lobsters as haue weighed 25 pound, as they assure mee. Also heere is abundance of Herring, Turbut, Sturgion, Cuskes, Hadocks, Mullets, Eeles, Crabbes, Muskles and Oysters. Besides there is probability that the Countrey is of an excellent temper for the making of Salt: for since our comming our Fishermen haue brought home very good Salt which they found candied by the standing of the Sea water and the heat of the Sunne, vpon a Rocke by the Sea shore: and in diuers salt Marishes that some haue gone through, they haue found some Salt in some places crushing vnder their Feete and cleauing to their Shooes.
And as for fresh Water the Countrey is full of dainty Springs, and some great Riuers, and some lesser Brookes; and at _Masathulets_ Bay they digged Wels and found Water at three Foot deepe in most places: and neere _Salem_ they haue as fine cleare Water as we can desire, and we may digge Wels and find Water where we list.
Thus wee see both Land and Sea abound with store of blessings for the comfortable sustenance of Man’s life in _New-England_.
_Of the Aire of_ New-England _with the temper and Creatures in it_.
The Temper of the Aire of _New-England_ is one speciall thing that commends this place. Experience doth manifest that there is hardly a more healthfull place to be found in the World that agreeth better with our English bodyes. Many that haue beene weake and sickly in old _England_, by comming hither haue beene thoroughly healed and growne healthfull strong. For here is an extraordinarie cleere and dry Aire that is of a most healing nature to all such as are of a Cold, Melancholy, Flegmatick, Rheumatick temper of Body. None can more truly speake hereof by their owne experience then my selfe. My Friends that knew me can well tell how verie sickly I haue bin and continually in Physick, being much troubled with a tormenting paine through an extraordinarie weaknesse of my Stomacke, and aboundance of Melancholicke humors; but since I came hither on this Voyage, I thanke God, I haue had perfect health, and freed from paine and vomiting, hauing a Stomacke to digest the hardest and coursest fare, who before could not eat finest meat; and whereas my Stomacke could onely digest and did require such drinke as was both strong and stale, now I can and doe often times drink _New-England_ water verie well; and I that haue not gone without a Cap for many yeeres together, neither durst leaue off the same, haue now cast away my Cap, and doe weare none at all in the day time: and whereas beforetime I cloathed my selfe with double cloathes and thicke Wastcoates to keepe me warme, euen in the Summer time, I doe now goe as thin clad as any, onely wearing a light Stuffe Cassocke vpon my Shirt, and Stuffe Breeches of one thicknesse without Linings. Besides I haue one of my Children that was formerly most lamentably handled with sore breaking out of both his hands and feet of the King’s-euill, but since he came hither hee is very well ouer he was, and there is hope of perfect recouerie shortly euen by the very wholesomnesse of the Aire, altering, digesting and drying vp the cold and crude humours of the Body: and therefore I thinke it is a wise course for al cold complections to come to take Physick in _New England_: for a sup of _New-England’s_ Aire is better then a whole draught of old _England’s_ Ale. In the Summer time in the midst of _July_ and _August_, it is a good deale hotter then in old _England_: and in Winter _January_ and _February_ are much colder as they say: but the Spring and Autumne are of a middle temper.