Chapter 6

The proper beating of the whites of the eggs is an important matter in cake-making. There are a number of machines for this purpose, which are in turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but for private use not one of them is comparable to hand-beating. When once the knack of beating eggs is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them to the right consistency; indeed, the most successful result is that which is the most rapidly attained. The whites of eggs for beating should be fresh, and should be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and repassing them in the two halves of the shell. It is best to beat the whites immediately they are broken, but if this is not possible, they must be kept in a cool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will be found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnished kitchens a copper beating-bowl is provided; it should not be tinned, as contact with this metal will blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of iron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowl with circular bottom, and sufficiently large to admit of a good stroke in beating, answers the purpose perfectly well. A pinch of salt may be added to the whites, and if an inexperienced beater finds them assume a granulated appearance, a little lemon-juice will remedy it.

Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the egg thickens. As it is the air mixing with the albumen of the eggs which causes them to froth, it is necessary to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, so that they may absorb as much air as possible.

If these simple and important conditions are observed, the whites of a dozen eggs may be beaten to the strongest point, without fatigue to the operator, in five minutes. When the whites are properly beaten they should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after standing a little while, will not show signs of returning to their original state.

In order more easily to make cakes and biscuits into the composition of which almonds and cocoa-nut enter largely, manufacturers supply both of these pounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable to prepare the former fresh, and much time and trouble may be saved in passing almonds through Kent's Combination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead of laboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is, besides, more satisfactory, the paste being smoother than it can otherwise be made in domestic practice.

Cakes of the description for which we now give recipes cannot be made well unless the materials are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. It is clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency that they will bear the weight of the other ingredients, the result must be a heavy cake.

Currants for cakes, after they have been washed and picked, should be scalded, in order to swell them and make them more tender.

Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water over them, cover the basin with a plate; after they have stood a minute, drain away the water and throw the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put the currants on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, turning occasionally until thoroughly dry; dust a little flour over them, and they will be ready for use.

Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is fine. For superior cakes raw sugar will not answer.

POUND CAKE.

One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour, six eggs (or seven, if small), one pound castor sugar, quarter of a pound almonds cut small, half-a-pound of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of essence of ratafia.

The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hard warm the pan. Add the sugar gradually; next the eggs, which must previously be well beaten up; then sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, and flavouring.

This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all the ingredients must be well beaten together with an iron spoon from left to right. Bake in small tins, for about forty minutes, in a moderate oven.

PLAIN POUND CAKE.

Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound of Vienna flour, one pound of castor sugar, a quarter of a pound of almonds cut small, half-a-pound of currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of essence of ratafia.

Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and mix in the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs up, and mix them with half-a-pint of new milk; stir into the butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit.

SAVOY SPONGE CAKE.

Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the yolks of four eggs until you have a thick batter, stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry sifted flour, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth. Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, and then covered with as much sifted sugar as will adhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture, taking care the tin is not more than half full, and bake for half-an-hour.

LEMON SAVOY SPONGE.

Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps on the peel of two lemons, so as to get all the flavour from them; dissolve the sugar in half a gill of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of them if a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until very white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, beat the whites of the eggs to a strong froth, and mix as thoroughly but as lightly as possible; butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill it with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper heat for thirty minutes.

MACAROONS.

Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and two ounces each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Flour a baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, which can be bought at the confectioner's, and drop on to them at equal distances, a small piece of the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until the macaroons are crisp and of a golden colour. When done cut round the wafer-paper with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve to dry.

In following recipes for this class of cake some judgment is required in the choice of the sugar, and the result will vary greatly according as this is of the right sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugar may be required, and only practice can make perfect in this matter. As a general direction, it may be given that the sugar must be of the finest quality, and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like.

COCOA-NUT CAKES.

Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar, and two ounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheets of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the cake mixture on to it, keeping them in a rocky shape. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until crisp.

CHOCOLATE CAKES.

Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to the strongest possible froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar, two teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thickly with sugar, and drop small teaspoonfuls of the mixture at equal distances on it, allowing space for the cakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven.

COCOA-NUT ROCK.

Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until it is beginning to return again to sugar, when cool add a packet of Nelson's Albumen whisked to a strong froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in a quarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Spread the mixture, not more than an inch thick, in a greased pudding-tin, and place in a cool oven to dry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep in tins in a cool, dry place.

SUGAR ICING.

No icing can be successfully done unless the sugar is of the finest kind, perfectly white, and so finely sifted as hardly to be distinguished by the eye from potato-flour. Such sugar can now generally be procured of the best grocers at a moderate price. The process of sifting the sugar at home is somewhat slow and troublesome, but by so doing a perfectly pure article is secured. After being crushed the sugar should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, and, finally, through one made for the purpose, or failing this, very fine muslin will answer. When the sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity of "fecule de pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be added; it reduces sweetness, and does not interfere with the result of the process. If the sugar is not sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to make the icing, and in the end it will not look so smooth as it ought to do. Confectioners use pyroligneous acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is no objection to it in small quantities. To make the icing, beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved with three teaspoonfuls of cold water, work in by degrees one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a teaspoonful of lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge of stone-blue will have the same effect. If potato-flour is used, mix it thoroughly with the sugar before adding it to the white of egg. A little more or less sugar may be required, as the result is in great measure determined by the method of the operator; and when the paste is perfectly smooth, and will spread without running, it is fit for use. For icing large cakes confectioners use a stand which has a revolving board, so that cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing this, an ordinary board or inverted plate can be made to answer. As soon as the icing is spread on the cake it must be dried in an oven with the door open. It is sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a hot room for some hours. If too great heat is used the icing will crack.

ALMOND PASTE.

Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, pound them in a mortar, adding a little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; and when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, mix them with an equal weight of icing sugar. Moisten the paste with a packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing it to become dry and firm before spreading the icing over it. This paste can be used for making several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without the Albumen can be kept in bottles for some time. Almond paste can be made from bitter almonds which have been infused in spirit to make an extract for flavouring, and in this case no sweet almonds will be required.

BEVERAGES.

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Among the most useful preparations which have ever been introduced to the public for the immediate production of delicious beverages, are NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES. These beverages are highly approved for ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for afternoon and evening entertainments, and have a special value for invalids, as they contain nourishment and are at the same time very refreshing. When required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, and mix with it five times its bulk of water, the beverage can then be used either hot or cold; if in standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon, orange, and cherry jelly, with the addition of water as directed, will be found superior to any other beverage of the kind, and specially excellent for children's parties.

The following "cups" are delicious made with the jelly as directed.

CLARET CUP, made merely with seltzer water, claret, and PORT WINE JELLY, will be found superior to the ordinary preparation. A little sugar may be added if desired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water use a half-pint bottle of PORT WINE JELLY, stir briskly until well mixed, put in a sprig of balm and borage, three thick slices of cucumber; place the vessel containing the claret cup covered over on ice for an hour; strain out the herbs before serving.

BADMINTON CUP is made with Burgundy, in the same way as the above, with the addition of a bottle of ORANGE JELLY.

CHAMPAGNE CUP requires equal quantities of the wine and seltzer-water, with a bottle of ORANGE JELLY.

CIDER CUP is made with a pint and a half of cider, a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of either ORANGE, LEMON, or SHERRY JELLY.

CHERRY CUP.--Half-a-pint of claret, a quart of soda-water, and a half-pint bottle of CHERRY JELLY.

MULLED PORT WINE.

Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to it four times its bulk of boiling water with a little nutmeg, and, if liked, a crushed clove.

LEMONADE.

Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in a quart of water, with a sliced lemon and sweetened with sugar, forms a good lemonade, and is a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch of the Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with a little sugar and a pinch of bicarbonate of potash, makes an effervescing draught. These acidulated drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and as refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints they are invaluable.

LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE).

Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the contents of a threepenny packet of Nelson's Citric Acid in a quart of boiling water; then add two quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The above quantity of sugar may be increased or decreased according to taste.

GINGERADE.

Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a quart of boiling water, cover the vessel, and let the infusion stand until cold. (The Extract of Ginger may be used in place of this infusion). Strain through flannel; add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, six drops of Nelson's Lemon Flavouring, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar; stir until dissolved, and the Gingerade will be ready.

AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE.

An Extract of Ginger made as follows is most useful for family purposes, and can be substituted for the infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound of fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small pieces. Put into a bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened gin, let it stand for a month, shaking it occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, allowing it to stand until it has become clear, when it will be fit for use.

LEMON SYRUP.

Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half of water. Remove all scum as it rises, and continue boiling gently until the syrup begins to thicken and assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained lemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in water, and allow both to boil together for half-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug, to each pint add one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well.

The juice of Seville oranges may be made into a syrup in the same way as that of lemons, or lemon and orange juice may be used in equal quantities. These syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for invalids as lemonade or orangeade.

MILK BEVERAGE.

A very agreeable and useful beverage is made by dissolving a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream can, if preferred, be used with a bottle of soda-water. For invalids, this beverage can be used instead of tea or coffee, and may be preferable in many cases on account of the nourishment it contains; it will also be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, or posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summer use, Milk Beverage is delicious, and may be flavoured with raspberry or strawberry syrup. If on standing it should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to beat it up with a spoon.

CITRIC ACID.

This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as the orange, currant, and quince, but especially in that of the lemon. It is chiefly made from the concentrated juice of lemons, imported from Sicily and Southern Italy, and which, after undergoing certain methods of preparation, yields the crystals termed Citric Acid. These crystals may be used for all the purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In the manufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to the public by Messrs. G. Nelson, Dale, and Co., only the pure juice of the lemon is used.

ESSENCE OF LEMON.

This well-known essence is extracted from the little cells visible in the rind of lemons, by submitting raspings of the fruit to pressure. The greater portion of the oil of lemons sold in England is imported from Portugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine. In order to present the public with a perfectly pure commodity, G. Nelson, Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon direct from Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they have the fullest confidence.

Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduated bottles, eightpence each, each bottle containing sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly.

MACARONI, ETC.

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We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly of macaroni, which can be had at such a price as to bring it within the reach of all classes. English-made macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even less, the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. The Naples, or pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for families, and the Genoa, or twisted, for high-class dishes. The English taste is in favour of macaroni boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks soak it. But this is not correct, and it is not at all necessary to soak macaroni. If kept boiling in sufficient water, the macaroni requires no attention--ebullition prevents it sticking to the saucepan.

Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, it is excellent when merely boiled in water with salt, as in the first recipe, eaten as an accompaniment to meat, or with stewed fruit.

MACARONI WITH CHEESE.

Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken into pieces an inch long, into three pints of boiling water, with a large pinch of salt. The saucepan should be large, or the water will rise over when the macaroni boils fast, which it should do for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When done, strain the macaroni through a colander, put it back into the saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white pepper and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the fire for a minute or two. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stir into the macaroni two ounces or more, if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. If not convenient to use Parmesan, a mild dry English or American cheese will answer very well. Some cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put a fourth part of it on to a hot dish, then to strew over it a fourth part of the grated cheese, and so on till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering the top.

MACARONI CHEESE.

Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of a pound an ounce of butter, and two ounces of grated cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved butter over the top, and put it in the oven till it is a bright-yellow colour; serve quickly.

MACARONI WITH BACON.

Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice or mince it, stir it into a quarter of a pound of macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if liked, add a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve very hot.

MACARONI WITH ONIONS.

Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three onions sliced and fried a delicate brown, add a few spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire for a few minutes and serve.

STEWED MACARONI.

Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three pints of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in a colander, then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and stir over the fire for five minutes. Take it off the fire and stir in one ounce of grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste.

MACARONI WITH TOMATOES.

Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put it into a stewpan with a small piece of butter and a teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small bottle of conserve of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for five minutes.

SWEET MACARONI.

Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with only a pinch of salt, until tender, when drained put into a stewpan with a gill of milk to each two ounces, and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouring may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better than grated lemon-peel, and for those who like it, powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over the fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, of course, an improvement. For those who do not like milk, the juice of a lemon, or a little sherry, may be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can be used for flavouring.

BOILED CHEESE.

Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, shred into it a quarter of a pound of good new cheese, and stir briskly over the fire until all is dissolved and is on the point of boiling, then take it off instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it will become tough. Have ready slices of toasted bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve as quickly as possible.

LES CANAPES AU PARMESAN.

Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a wire frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp the bread instantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle over each piece a thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper, and salt. Put the canapes in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, and serve immediately they are done.

RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in water with salt; drain it, toss it up in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, strew over it equally an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, then put another portion of rice and cheese until all is used. Serve immediately.

SCALLOPED EGGS.

Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. Put a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned white sauce, or Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in a little water, so as to glaze the eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them with another layer of it, and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are liked, they make a nice substitute for bread-crumbs. Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. Serve gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat with this dish.

SCOTCH WOODCOCK.

Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a stewpan, break into it two eggs, with a spoonful of milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir round quickly until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole as long as you can. When finished, pour on to a buttered toast, to which has been added a little essence of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve.

MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE.