Chapter 6

Stitches--Part I.: The needle--Gammer Gurton's needle--Art of needlework--Lists of stitches--Part II.: Plain work-- The seam--Mrs. Floyer--White embroidery--Nuns' work-- Greek--German--Spanish--Italian white work--Semper's rules for white work--Part III.: Opus Phrygium--Gold embroideries--Part IV.: Opus pulvinarium--Cushion stitches-- Mosaic stitches--Traditional decorations from Chaldea and Assyria--German and Italian pattern-books--Part V.: Opus plumarium--The Plumarii--Feather-work of India--Islands of the Pacific--African work--Mexican and Peruvian--Cluny triptych--Mitre of St. Charles Borromeo--Essay by Denis--Chinese and Japanese feather-stitches--Part VI.: Opus consutum or cut work--Patchwork--Egyptian and Greek examples--Irish cut work--Chaucer--Francis I.'s hangings at Cluny--Lord Beauchamp's curtains--Spanish examples-- Remarks--Art of application--Part VII.: Lace--Opus filatorium--Mrs. Palliser--M. Blanc--Guipure--Sir Gardiner Wilkinson--Netted lace--Homer--Solomon's Temple--Bobbin laces--Yak--Coloured laces--Venetian sumptuary laws--Golden laces--Point d'Alençon--Mr. A. Cole's lectures--M. Urbani de Gheltof on Venice laces--Lace stitches--Revival of lace school at Burano--English laces--Part VIII.: Tapestry--Opus pectineum--Modes of weaving tapestry--Its great antiquity-- Egyptian looms--Albert Castel on tapestries--Homeric picture-weaving--Arachne--A paraphrase by Lord Houghton-- Nomenticum--Sidonius Apollinaris--Saracenic weaving--Arras-- Brussels--Italian tapestries from Florence, Milan, and Mantua--French tapestries--Cluny Museum collection--Gobelins-- Beauvais--English tapestry--Comnenus--Matthew Paris--Early trade with Arras--Coventry tapestries--Chaucer--Tapestry "of verd"--Hatfield tapestries--Armada tapestries--Sir F. Crane--Mortlake manufactory--Francis Cleyne--Raphael cartoons--Percy tapestry from Lambeth 194