chapter 27. Make two more d c in the same loop, skip 3 stitches, fasten

with a sl st in next st 3 ch. 4 shells in next st. and continue for length desired.

_Slippers in Star Stitch_ (Figure 247).

4 balls of mercerized crochet cotton.

Star stitch is made by a ch of the required length. Insert hook in 2nd ch from it, draw wool through, keeping both sts on hook, insert hook in 3rd ch and draw wool through keeping this st also on the hook, skip the next ch and take up the 4th and 5th in same manner, making 5 sts on hook; now drop the strands of wool from which these sts were made, and take up wool of contrasting colour, double end into a loop with short end about one inch in length, draw this through all the sts on hook, being careful not to let this short end slip through, ch 1 to hold sts in place. Now with this new strand work a star by drawing it through the eye of star, it being the tightest stitch near the ch on hook keeping both sts on hook as before.

Draw wool also through long st down the side of star, then through next 2 ch which gives 5 sts on hook, then dropping the strand from which this star was made pick up the wool of 1st star and loop it through these 5 sts and ch 1 to hold the star in place. This ch should be worked tight so it will draw the sts together and form the star, which should be almost square. In the second row place the contrasting colour over the star underneath, tying in the wool, ch 3 on which take up 2 sts; this gives you 3 sts on hook, the next 2 loops are drawn through the long and short stitches of star underneath, taking up back stitch of the long and both strands of the short or eye of star.

_For the slipper proper._

Ch 9, on which make 3 stars, 2 ch at end then work 3 stars down the other side of ch, taking up the other thread.

2nd row--4 stars, 2 ch, 4 stars.

3d row--without widening.

Widen 2 stars every other row until you have 10 rows 2 rows without widening, then widen in the next.

There will be 13 rows in all, and 20 stars in this last row, now divide front and work 20 stars on either half for the sides; fit around sole by stretching and sew up the back on the wrong side. The wool or thread should be broken at the end of each row. (Crochet should not be worked backward and forward unless directions are given to that effect.)

For a frill around the slippers work groups of 6 ch st two more rows of the same. I always sew my slippers onto the soles after being finished, by overcasting with wool of the same shade on the right side, which saves stretching the slippers all out of shape when turning them.

_Jacket in Shell Stitch_ (Figure 248).

Material: 5 skeins of white Germantown and 1 skein of colour for edge. No. 7 bone needle.

Ch 127, with 3 extra sts for turning.

1st row--Skip 2 ch and make 4 d c in the next. * Skip 3 ch, 1 s c in next, ch 3, 4 d c in same st with s c and repeat from * ending with a final s c.

2nd row--Turn 1 s c in s c below * 2 d c in same st, 1 s c in next s c below and repeat from * ending with a s c in top of turning ch.

3rd row--Turn ch 3, 4 d c in s c below * 1 s c in next s c, ch 3, 4 d c in same st repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 9 times, then repeat the 2nd row once more. This gives a depth of work sufficient for the back part of sleeves. At the end of the last row fasten off.

The lower part of the back is now to be made. Count 8 shells (sh) along from the end of the last row and begin to crochet there, working as with 3rd row until within 8 sh of each other end of last long row.

Crochet in pattern upon this row until 11 rows in all have been worked. Upon the 12th row increase 1 sh in the 2 s c from each end by making 2 sh in those st instead of one.

Work without increasing for 13 rows more, then fasten off.

Go back to the foundation and upon the other side of it, beginning where the first row ended, crochet 13 sh as in 1st row. This is the commencement of the left shoulder and front.

Upon this row work 3 rows more in the usual way. At the end of the last row drop the loop temporarily from the needle, tie in an extra ball of wool at the top of the very beginning of the last row, ch 12 and fasten off. With this ch the extra width for the centre of the front is secured.

5th row--Again take the dropped loop upon the needle and crochet as usual making 3 sh upon the extra ch. The row is now 16 sh wide. Work in pattern for 17 rows more, the last row ending at the wrist. Fasten off.

On the 1st short row of lower front count 8 sh along from end of last row, begin there, work as usual to the other end, then crochet back and forth until the front is as long as the back, increasing 1 sh on the 13th row in the 2 s c from the underarm seam. The second front is made exactly like the first. The 3rd pattern row now is worked up the fronts around the neck, across the lower edge of jacket and sleeves, then finished with a scalloped edge worked as follows: Make 1 s c in space preceding st where s c was made on row below, ch 5, 1 s c on top of 1st d c below, ch 4, 1 s c in same space, ch 5 and repeat from beginning around all the edges, fasten off.

Shape the jacket by crocheting the sleeves and underarm seams together.

Crochet should be carefully washed and should not be put in the general laundry. Make suds of warm water and a little borax. Put the article, if of cotton or linen thread in and let it soak for a little while, then squeeze the water out of the article between the hands. Rinse in several waters in this manner always using warm water.

Put the piece in a white bag and hang on the line.

This way keeps the piece from stretching out of shape. Keep it on the line till the article is perfectly dry.

Knitted articles should also be treated in like manner when washing for if a knitted piece was pinned on a line to dry the article would be stretched out of shape.

XXIX

IRISH CROCHET LACE

Irish Crochet lace is one of the most durable of laces and is suitable to be worn for all occasions. It especially recommends itself for pick-up or porch work. It looks well and does not take an endless while to make, as almost every motif is made separately thus giving a variety. And although one may not have more than a few minutes to devote each day to the work, it is surprising how many articles can be completed with little effort and little time.

The materials necessary are a steel crochet hook, considerably finer than for ordinary crochet work, as the work must be very firm, even and close. Irish Crochet Thread, numbers 36 to 50 or D. M. C. cotton numbers 70 to 100 inclusive and number 10 for the padding cotton will be needed. All laces look better if pressed before making up, this is especially true of Irish Crochet. And when slightly soiled it can be washed in soap suds, made from any good laundry soap; rinse thoroughly in several waters, starch slightly and iron on the wrong side on a heavy blanket. These simple directions help to make the lace look like new. In Irish Crochet the motifs are made separately mostly worked over a padding cotton.

Then these motifs are basted on a pattern of cambric, or paper muslin which has been cut to the desired shape. A row of chainstitching is worked and basted to the edge of the pattern, then the filling in background is worked, joining the different motifs together with rows of chainstitching and picots or any other background stitch desired.

_Doily with Irish Crochet Edge_ (Figure 249).

This can also be used for a bread plate.

1st row--around a 24 inch circle of linen work a row of single crochet.

2nd row--5 chain, miss 3 single crochet and fasten with a single crochet in the 4th stitch; continue around mat.

3rd row--Into each group of chains work 3 single crochet, 1 picot, 3 single crochet.

4th row--6 ch fasten in the picot loop.

5th row--3 single crochet, picot, 3 single crochet, 1 picot, 3 single crochet, 1 picot; continue all around. This completes the mat.

_Belt of Irish Crochet_ (Figure 250).

This belt is very useful, especially as it is mounted upon a foundation, which is the ordinary cotton waist belting, one inch wide sold at all notion counters for a few cents. The crochet belt is basted upon this belting after being stretched and starched.

To make the belt:

1st row--Chain 26, turn.

2nd row--1 double crochet in 6th stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2 stitches and work 1 double crochet in 9th stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2, chain and work 1 double crochet in 12th stitch of chain, chain 5, skip 5, chain, 1 double crochet into 17th stitch of chain, chain 2, 1 double in 20th stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2 chain, 1 double crochet into 23rd stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2 and work 1 double crochet in 26th stitch.

3rd row--Chain 5, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet of preceding row, chain 2, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, 5 double crochet over chain of 5, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in 2nd stitch of chain of 5 at the end; turn and repeat from 2nd row for length required. For the edge, work on both sides of the belt into every chain loop 3 single crochet, 1 picot 3 single crochet.

_Rose Tie with lawn facing_ (Figure 251).

This bow has an under facing of lawn with a simple crochet edging of double crochet and chain stitch with picots, worked at even intervals. For the crochet tie:

1st row--Work rose the same way as the one in the wheel tie. Now crochet around the rose in this manner * chain 3, 1 single crochet caught in the 1st double crochet of the rose petal, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in 5th stitch of petal, chain 5, 1 double in 8th stitch of petal, 5 chain; repeat from * five times more.

2nd row--5 chain, 1 single crochet in each previous group of 5 chain, continue around entire rose.

3rd row--6 chain 1 single crochet in each preceding loop of chain.

4th row--* 6 chain, 9 double crochet in first space, 6 chain, 1 single crochet for next 4 spaces, 6 chain, then 9 double crochet in 5th space; repeat from * twice more.

5th row--* 6 chain, 1 single crochet in 1st double crochet of group, 6 chain, 1 single crochet in 5th double, 6 chain, 1 single crochet in 9th double; repeat from * all around.

For the next two rows work 6 chain, 1 single crochet in each previous group of chain. Finish the edge with a row of chain and picot.

Work two sections like the one described and fasten together in the centre. Sew this upon the lawn facing and the tie is complete.

If the tie shows any tendency to cap in the course of construction add an extra chain in the group of chain stitches every now and then.

_Wheel Tie with Rose and Straps with Shamrock_ (Figure 252.)

Wind padding cotton 6 times around the crochet needle. Over this ring work:

1st row--50 double crochet.

2nd row--Chain 5, miss 2 double crochet, * in the third stitch, work 1 double crochet, 2 chain, miss 2 double crochet repeat from * 24 times. Work a spider in the centre of the ring, with a needle and thread.

Make 8 of these wheels for the tie. Join together with filling stitch (3 chain and a single crochet). After working 3 chains and a single crochet around the edge of the tie, work 1 single crochet in first space, 3 chain, 1 single crochet in second space, 3 chain * 1 double crochet, 7 chain in third space (catch back into second chain from needle to form a picot chain) repeat from * 4 times more, chain 3, 1 single crochet in next space, chain 3, 1 single crochet in second space. Continue in this manner all around tie.

_For rose in centre of tie._

1st row--Chain 6, join in a ring.

2nd row--Chain 6 * 1 double crochet into ring, 4 ch 1 double crochet, 4 chain repeat from * twice more and join.

3rd row--Over first 4 chain work * 1 single crochet, 5 double crochet, 1 single crochet; repeat from * 5 times.

4th row--Work a row of 7 chain loops fastening at back of first row of single crochet (this is what helps to form the rose petals and makes them stand one above the other).

5th row--Over these loops work * 1 single crochet, 7 double crochet, 1 single crochet, repeat from * all around.

6th row--A row of 9 chain loops.

7th row--Into these loops work 1 single crochet, 9 double crochet, 1 single crochet; this completes the rose.

Let me mention here that roses can be substituted for the shamrocks worn on the ends of the straps.

_For straps._

Work 27 single crochet over a padding cord, join in a ring. Work 9 single crochet over padding cord, 1 chain, 9 single crochet, 1 single crochet, over padding cord into the chain stitch. Continue working 9 single crochet, 1 chain, 9 single crochet over padding cotton and fastening each time in the chain stitch with a single crochet. One strap is 6 inches long and the other is 7 inches long.

For the edge of straps work 2 chain, 1 double crochet, in first single crochet of previous row, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in 3rd stitch, 7 chain count back 5 chains and slip stitch (to form a picot) 1 double crochet in 5th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in 7th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in 9th stitch. Continue on both sides of straps.

_For the shamrocks._

Wind padding cotton over the end of crochet hook 6 times. Over this ring work 30 single crochet. * Over 3 strands of padding cotton work 11 single crochet. Twist padding cotton in a downward loop and work 1 single crochet over crossing of padding cotton, continue 15 single crochet over the loop, draw padding cotton to pull loop up close and then work 11 single crochet over padding cotton alone. Miss 2 single crochet on ring and work 2 single crochet over padding cotton into next 2 stitches of ring.

Turn, leave padding cotton, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into top of crossing loop, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into ring just before beginning of arch. Turn, over 12 chain work 4 single crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 treble crochet. Work 1 treble crochet into single crochet over crossing of loop. Continue over next 12 chain, 14 treble, 1 double and 4 single crochet. Work 4 single crochet over padding cotton into next 4 single crochet on ring, repeat from * twice more leaving out the 4 single crochet over padding cotton into the ring the last time. Turn, work a row of single crochet over padding cotton. Between petals take the needle out, insert in stitch half way between the petals, and pull loop through, this will give a better shape to the petals. Then continue with single crochet.

For stem work 3 single crochet over padding cotton into ring. Then 40 single crochet over padding cotton alone, turn and work 40 single crochet over padding cotton into the previous row of single crochet to the ring. To shape the stem to the right pull the padding cotton before working the second row of single crochet.

_Long Jabot_ (Figure 253).

Over a padding cotton work 50 single crochet, turn, and work down other side, 41 single crochet over padding cotton into previous row of single crochet (leaving one-half of stem still to be worked).

1st arm--Now twist the padding cotton under the stem, fasten with a slip stitch, over the loose padding cotton work 18 double crochet, turn and work over padding cotton into each double crochet, 18 trebles, fasten with a single crochet in the 5th single crochet of centre stem.

2nd arm--Turn work over padding cotton, 10 double crochet into double crochet of previous row. Now work 8 double crochet over padding cotton alone, turn and work 18 treble crochet over padding cotton into the double crochet of previous row. Fasten in 10th stitch, this completes the second arm.

Now work 8 arms more in the same way, then finish the stem with 9 single crochet over padding cotton into the other single crochet of stem.

For the centre work over 2 strand padding cotton 6 double crochet and fasten into the single crochet which connects the arms to the stem, continue all around centre and fasten off.

Work 36 chain, into these work 36 double crochet with 6 double on each end. Continue working until there are 4 rows of doubles. Connect the leaf to this with slip stitch, baste on paper and work 3 rows of the filling stitch all around.

1st row--For the edge, work 6 chain loops into every loop of previous row.

2nd row--Over 6 chain loops work 7 single crochet.

3rd row--6 chain loops caught into every 4th single crochet.

4th row--Into 6 chain loops work 4 single crochet, picot, 4 single crochet, then into 2nd or next loop work 4 single crochet, picot, 4 single crochet, into 3 loop work 4 single crochet. 5 chain turn and fasten in the 4th double crochet over 2nd loop, turn and over chain work 4 double crochet, picot, 4 double crochet, then into the 3rd loop finish with the other 4 single crochet; repeat from * all around jabot.

_Baby Irish Lace, with Rose Leaf and Grapes_ (Figure 254).

_For roses._

Chain 12. Into chain work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain repeat from * for 6 times more. Into each group of 3 chain work 1 single crochet, 6 double crochet, 1 single crochet making seven petals to a rose.

_For the leaves._

Chain 8, join in a ring. Over this ring work 32 single crochet without breaking the thread, chain 8 and form another to the right and a little above the other ring, work 32 single crochet into this one also, again chain 8 and form a ring to the left of the first ring, fill this ring with 32 single crochet.

_For grapes._

Chain 3, join. Fill chain with single crochet, continue working around, widening as needed for 3 rows. Decrease by missing a stitch occasionally to shape grapes. Just before finishing stuff with cotton, make 3 grapes for each cluster and fasten into centre of leaf. Baste all motifs on muslin and fill with background stitch. For edge of scallop work groups of 6 chain caught down with a single crochet then * 4 single crochet into first space, 2 single crochet into next space, 6 chain, turn, fasten into single crochet, turn, 3 single crochet over chain, picot, 5 single crochet, 2 single crochet into same space, 4 single crochet into next space, 6 chain, turn, and catch down beside first loop, turn, 4 single crochet over chain, 6 chain turn, catch down in centre of first loop, turn, 4 single crochet, picot, 4 single crochet, into chain, 1 single crochet into next loop, picot, 3 single crochet, 4 single crochet into next space and repeat from * all around edge of lace.

_Dutch Collar_ (Figure 255).

Begin the rose with a small thick ring made by winding the padding cotton ten times around the end of the crochet needle. Cover this ring with single crochet, cutting off the end of the padding cotton when the ring is three quarters covered. *Chain 6, catch down into the ring; repeat from * 5 more times, dividing the spaces as evenly as possible so the last chain is caught down beside the first one.

Over the chain loop work * 1 single crochet 7 double crochet, 1 single crochet, repeat from * all around.

*Chain 7, catch down at back in the same stitch as that in which the chain loops of the preceding row was caught, repeat from * all around.

Over chain loop * 1 single crochet, 9 double crochet, 1 double crochet. Repeat from * all around.

*Chain 8 catch down in back same place as before. Repeat from * all around.

*Over chain loops work repeat from * 1 single crochet, 11 doubles, 1 single crochet, this finishes the rose centre.

*Now begin the first row around the rose * 7 chain 3 picot, (catch back into third stitch) chain 7, picot, 3 chains, catch down in first petal in outer row, repeat from * 12 times more, spacing these picot loops evenly all around, catching the last one into the centre of the first.

*Next work one picot loop catching in into centre of loop of row below, then a loop of 6 chains, repeat from * caught into centre of next picot loop.

Turn and over this loop work 9 single crochet, turn, work 9 double crochet over the single crochet 3 chain, catch down into same stitch as the 6 chain loop was caught. Work 2 rows of picot loops, then repeat from * all around finishing the row in the corner of the first 9 double crochet ornament.

9th row--Work a row of plain picot loops.

10th row--Work a row of plain picot loops.

11th row--Another row of plain picot loops.

Five roses are required for the collar.

_For the wheels._

Over a padding cotton ring, work single crochet. Over a single strand of the padding cotton crochet into every single crochet, a single crochet, work 4 rows the same way only add a picot in every 4th single crochet in the last row. Now begin the first row around the wheel * chain 7, catch into the last single crochet of the wheel, chain 7, picot, chain 7, chain 3, skip 2 stitches of the wheel and catch down into the 3rd with a single crochet, repeat from * all around.

Next work 1 picot loop, catching it into the centre of loop in row below, then a * loop of 6 chain caught into centre of next picot loop. Turn, and over this loop work 9 single crochet, turn and work 9 double crochet over the single crochet, 3 chain stitch down into same stitch as the 6 chain loop was caught. Work 2 more picot loops, then repeat from * all around finishing the row in the centre of the first ornament.

Work a row of plain picot loop. Another row of plain picot loops. Make four wheels for the collar.

Sew the roses and wheels firmly on the cambric pattern (the size and style having been cut out of the cambric).

Placing them so as to leave room for a single row of picot loops to be worked between to join them, crochet a chain of chain stitches and baste them upon the edge of the cambric pattern. Fill the work out to the desired shape with the picot loops, which should contain the same number of chain stitches as the loops in the roses and wheels, 3 chain, 1 double crochet, 3 chain, work a row all around collar, then begin the border or edge. Work around the inner edge and fronts of collar 4 single crochet into each loop, then around the lower edge * 4 single crochet in the first space, 4 single crochet in the second space, 2 single crochet in the third space; chain 6 down at the beginning of second space. Over the loops thus formed make 3 single crochet, picot, 7 single crochet, 2 single crochet into same (third) space, 4 single crochet into next space. Turn, 6 chain catch down into next to the last loop, turn, 5 single crochet over the loop, chain 6, turn, and catch down into centre of first loop. Turn, 5 single crochet, picot, 5 single crochet over this last loop, 2 single crochet into the next loop, picot, 3 single crochet, repeat from * all around edge. Take the collar up from the cambric and press upon the wrong side over a blanket or heavy flannel.

XXX

KNITTING, PLAIN AND PURLING, WASH RAGS, AND FANCY STITCHES FOR SHAWLS

There are certain terms used in knitting that are peculiar to the work. Until these terms are studied and practised, the instructions are as bad as trying to read a foreign language that you know nothing about.

Knitting is usually done on two needles though there are times when more needles are used, for instance, in knitting stockings.

Thread, silk or worsted can be used for the work. The latter is best for practising the first stitches or pieces.

The first term we learn in knitting is "to cast on stitches" (Figure 256). Select a pair of medium-sized wooden needles. Your worsted should be wound into a ball. "Casting on" is the foundation for the work. Take a knitting needle in each hand between the thumb and first finger. Make a loop of the worsted over the left-hand needle near the end. Put your right-hand needle through this loop under the left needle. Holding the needles in this position, throw the worsted around the point of the right-hand needle and draw the right-hand needle through the first loop. There is now a loop on each needle. Slip the last loop made over the left needle. * Both needles are in the one loop, the left on top of the right. Again throw the worsted over the point of the right-hand needle and draw the needle through with the loop on it. Slip this loop over the left-hand needle and repeat from *, till the number of stitches desired are cast on.

The * indicates from which point the directions are to be repeated.

The German method of knitting is to hold the work in the left hand and the worsted over the first finger, under the second and third and then over the little finger.

To knit, the right-hand needle is in the first loop from the point of the other needle. * Throw the worsted over point of the right-hand needle and draw it through the loop. Slip the first stitch off the left needle and insert the right needle into the next stitch and repeat from *, till all the stitches have been transferred to the right-hand needle (Figure 257).

Remember to hold the work in the left hand when starting to knit each needle or row.

To purl (Figure 258). The work is held in the left hand. The worsted is brought in front of the work. The right-hand needle is inserted through the stitch from right to left in front of the left needle. Pass the point of the right needle over the worsted and draw the loop through. Slip off the stitch on the left needle as in knitting. Repeat in this manner until all the stitches are transferred.

Sometimes it is necessary to get rid of some of the stitches. In that case the needle is slipped through two stitches instead of one and the new stitch formed in the usual way. There are two abbreviations for purling two together. They are p. 2 tog. or p-n. The latter means purl narrow.

When knitting, two stitches can also be taken together. The abbreviation for this is n. K. 3 tog. means knit three stitches (sts) together as one stitch.

To slip-stitch means to take a stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle without knitting it, and its abbreviation is sl.

To bind or cast off means to slip the stitches from the needle so that you have a chain edge. Slip the first stitch and knit the second. You now have two loops on the right-hand needle. * Put the point of the left needle (from left to right) through the first stitch on the other needle. Hold the worsted tight. Slip the right-hand needle through the loop formed as described above and then slip the loop from the left needle. There is only one loop on the right-hand needle. Knit the next stitch and repeat from *.

Casting off must be done loosely or the work will have a puckered appearance.

It may be that you desire to widen the row of stitches. Both widening and decreasing is done at the end of needle or row. Knit as usual till there remains but one loop on the left-hand needle. Insert the left-hand needle through the loop at the base of the last stitch. Bring worsted around the point and make a stitch as usual. The last stitch is knitted in the usual way.

After you have practised the stitches with wool, it is well to buy a ball of coarse knitting cotton and a pair of steel needles. The cotton makes excellent wash cloths. Cast on 50 stitches then knit or purl the same amount of rows as stitches. To make a fancy cloth knit three rows then purl three rows until you have the fifty rows.

The long straight shawls are the most popular at present.

A little one for yourself that would be quite pretty is made in pop corn stitch (Figure 260). It requires five skeins of worsted and a pair of wooden needles.

Cast on 59 stitches on your needle.

1st row--K 1st, then knit two stitches together (2 K tog) the rest of the way. You now have 30 stitches on your needle (Figure 260).

2nd row--K first stitch, then knit the loop which is formed between the double stitches of the first row. Continue in this manner till you have again on the needle the same number you cast on--59.

3rd row--K plain all the way across.

4th row--P plain all the way across.

5th row--K 2 together all the way across to the last stitch, then k that by itself.

6th row--Same as second row.

7th row--K plain.

8th row--P plain.

Continue in this manner till you make a scarf about one yard long.

The popcorn pattern affords good practice for the different stitches explained before.

If a longer shawl is desired continue in the same manner. To make it broader it will be necessary to cast on more stitches at the beginning.

A shawl may be finished in many ways. Sometimes a little crochet edge is worked around it, or a chain stitch fringe can be made. The plain fringe is the one most used however. This is made by cutting the wool about ten inches long. Take four lengths and slip them through and knot them into the border edge at each end of the shawl. This makes a fringe about five inches deep.

The basket stitch makes a thick shawl (Figure 261.)

To make a wide shawl in this stitch 10 skeins of Germantown wool will be required.

Cast on 120 stitches.

1st row--Knit plain.

2nd row--* K 3, p 7, k 3, p 7, repeat from * to end of needle.

3rd row--* K 7, p 3, k 7, p 3, repeat from * to end of needle.

4th row--* K 3, p 7, k 3, p 7 repeat from * to end of needle.

5th row--P the entire row.

6th row--* P 7, k 3, p 7, k 3, repeat from * to end of needle.

7th row--* P 3, k 7, p 3, k 7 repeat from * to end of needle.

8th row--Like 6th row.

9th row--P entire row.

Nine rows form the pattern, repeat from second row until you have a shawl two yards long.

XXXI

DOLL'S CAPE, HOOD, LEGGINGS AND JACKETS

DOLL'S CAPE.

Material--3 Fold Saxony, 2 Steel Knitting Needles No. 10, 1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.

Commence with 1 stitch. Knit plain, increasing 1 stitch beginning of each needle until there are 30 stitches on needle. Increase 1, knit 12 stitches, bind off 6 stitches, knit 12 stitches. Increase 1 stitch beginning of needle, knit to end of row; turn, knit 1 row plain. Repeat until there are 15 stitches on needle. Now increase 1 stitch at the neck and decrease 1 stitch at end of row, 1 row plain. Repeat 3 times more. Knit plain without increasing at front and 2 together at end of needle, until 1 stitch is left on needle, fasten off. Finish the right side same as left. Crochet a row of holes for ribbon, 1 chain, 1 double all around. With blue yarn crochet 1 row, 3 chain, 1 single.

_Doll's Jacket_ (Figure 263).

Material--3 Fold Saxony, 2 Steel Knitting Needles No. 16, 3 Steel Knitting Needles No. 13, 1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.

Cast on steel needles No. 13, 64 stitches, 1 plain 1 purl for 26 rows, Knit 16 stitches; turn. Take another needle, knit the 16 stitches for 5 rows with No. 16 needles knit plain for yoke, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck until there are 12 stitches on needle, knit plain until there are 7 ridges, bind off. From the 48 stitches left on needle, knit 32 stitches for 14 rows; bind off. Finish left front same as right.

Sleeves--Cast on steel needles No. 16, 26 stitches. Knit plain for 6 ridges. With steel needles No. 13 knit 1 plain, 1 purl for 20 rows. Bind off 3 stitches beginning of each needle until 8 stitches are left on needle; bind off. Sew up seam and shoulder seams. Crochet a row of holes around neck for ribbon, 1 chain, 1 double. With blue yarn crochet one row, 3 chain, 1 single all around.

_Doll's Cap_ (Figure 264).

Material--2 Fold Saxony, 2 Steel Knitting Needles No. 16, 2 Steel Knitting Needles No. 13, 1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.

With blue yarn cast on No. 16 steel needles 45 stitches. Knit plain for 6 ridges. With white yarn and No. 13 needles, 1 plain, 1 purl for 17 rows.

Crown--Knit 29 stitches, knit 2 together; turn, knit 14 stitches, knit 2 together. Repeat until all side stitches have been worked up and the crown is complete. Then pick up stitches on both ends, first on one side; turn, knit them plain, also the crown stitches, then pick up the stitches on that side and knit them. Make a row of holes for ribbon, yarn over needle twice, then knit 2 together to end of row. 1 row plain, knitting only 1 of the stitches cast on. With blue yarn crochet 1 row, 3 chain, 1 single.

_Doll's Leggings_ (Figure 265).

Material--3 Fold Saxony, 2 Steel Knitting Needles No. 13, 1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.

Cast on 32 stitches. 1 plain, 1 purl for 21 rows. Decrease beginning and end of needle. Knit for five rows. Decrease continuously 1 stitch beginning and end of needle every 6th row, until there are 22 stitches on needle. Knit for 15 rows. Bind off 6 stitches, knit 10, take another thread, bind off the remaining stitches. Knit the 10 stitches for 4 rows. Decrease beginning and end of each needle, until there are 4 stitches on needle. Bind off and sew up seam. With blue yarn crochet 3 chain, 1 single around top of legging.

_Infant's Knitted Bootees_ (Figure 266).

Material--2 Skeins White Wool, 1 Skein Pink or Blue, 1 Pair Knitting Needles No. 16.

1st row--Cast on 53 stitches in coloured wool.

2nd row--Knit plain to the end of row.

3rd row--Slip 1, make 1, knit 25, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 25, make 1, knit 1.

4th row--Knit plain to the end of row.

5th row--Slip 1, make 1, knit 27, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, knit 27, make 1, knit 1.

6th row--Knit plain to end of row.

7th row--Slip 4, make 1, knit 29, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 29, make 1, knit 1.

8th row--Knit plain to the end of row.

9th row--Slip 1, make 1, knit 31, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 31, make 1, knit 1.

10th row--Knit plain to end of row.

11th row--Slip 1, knit 33, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 34.

12th row--Knit plain to end of row.

13th row--Slip 1, knit 34, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 35.

14th row--Knit plain to end of row.

15th row--Slip 1, knit 35, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 36.

16th row--Knit plain to end of row.

You must now have 75 stitches on your needle. Knit now 8 plain rows then knit 43 stitches, now knit 2 together. Turn your needles and continue this until you have 25 stitches on each side of needle. You must now tie on the white wool then knit 12 plain, then knit 2 together as above, you are beginning now to make the part that forms the little sock. Knit 2 together 7 times, turn your needle, knit 1, pick up the stitch that you will see between the two stitches that you have knitted, two together, next row knit plain. Next row purl 1, then you have four rows complete. Commence 2 together again 7 times continue this until you have 5 pattern rows.

Always remember to take 2 stitches together after you have knitted the 12 stitches. There should be 14 stitches on each side needle. Tie on the coloured wool again and knit plain to end. Knit 1 row plain then make 1, knit 2 together to the end of row. Then make 1, pick up the stitch already explained. Tie on white wool, knit 1 row plain. Begin the pattern again by knitting 2 together. Remember you must always begin a row on the right side of the bootee. Do 7 rows of the pattern, then 12 rows ribbed. Rib is to knit 2 plain rows and purl 2 rows. After knitting 12 rows cast off on the right side and sew the bootee up neatly at the back and run some ribbon in to finish it off.

_A warm hood for the baby_ (Figure 267).

This hood requires an ounce and a half of Shetland wool and one pair of fine bone needles No. 7.

Cast on 21 stitches, knit 6 rows or three ridges plain.

Second row--Knit one * wool over needle twice, knit 2 together, repeat from *.

Knit 3 more rows plain. Cast on 21 stitches at one end and knit back and cast on 20 more at the other. Knit on these 62 stitches that are on the needle for 30 more rows. Now start a new pattern by knitting 1 for the edge * wool over, slip the next stitch on the right-hand needle, knit the next two, pass the slipped stitches over these two. Note the two loops remain on the right-hand needle and the wool cast over. There knit from * to the end of row, knitting last stitch plain, purl back. Repeat these 2 rows 20 times. Cast off the 20 and 21 stitches at the end. Knit on the original 21 stitches for 30 rows.

Next row--Knit 1 * wool across the needle twice, knit 2 together, repeat from *.

Knit 6 rows.

Cast off.

Your knitting is now finished and somewhat in the shape of a cross. Join the X's to the X's on the wrong side. Sew right up to the corner.

Join the dashes to the dashes, the O's to the O's, the diamonds to the diamonds in like manner (Figure 268).

You will have a piece of knitting that looks like a box cover. Turn it so the wrong side is in the right position. Fold the backs over the other so that the 2 rows of holes correspond. Sew along the bottom edge.

Turn back a little corner from the plain knitting and sew it down.

Run a ribbon through the holes and tie in a bow in front.

_Knitted Vest for Baby._

Materials required, 10 oz. of Shetland Wool, a pair of Bone Knitting Needles No. 12 and 2 yds. of Ribbon.

Cast on 140 stitches.

1st row--Knit plain.

2nd row--Knit 2 purl 2 all the way across. Continue knitting 2 and 2 ribs for 5 inches.

To form the armholes work backward and forward on the 1st 40 stitches for two and three quarter inches. Cast off all but 12 stitches for the shoulder strap. Work 12 rows on these 12 stitches and cast off.

For back--Continue from where you divide it for the armhole for 60 stitches leaving 40 for the second front.

Work two and a quarter inches on the 60 stitches. Cast off. Make second front the same as first. Sew up on shoulders.

A pretty little crochet edge around the neck and armhole will complete this comfortable little vest.

A simple crochet edge is made by working one double crochet, * 4 chain, 1 double crochet in first chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 double crochet, repeat from * sew the two small pieces of ribbon that have been cut in half to the vest. Tie in a bow. The bows hold the little garment together.

_Pine Pattern Lace._

Cast on 28 stitches and knit across plain.

1st row--Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 10, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 2, knit 2 together, make 4 (thread four times round needle) knit 2 together, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together.

2nd row--Knit plain, but work twice (knit 1 and purl 1) in each of these make 2 loops. In the 2nd row work 6 times (knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1,) all in the 4 made stitches.

3rd row--Slip 1, knit 2 together, * make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together; repeat from * once, knit 2, make 2, decrease 2 (by working slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped stitch over), knit 5, decrease 2, make 2, knit 2 together.

4th row--The same as second row.

5th row--Slip 1, * knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, repeat from * three times, knit 2, make 2, decrease 2, knit 3, decrease 2, make 2, knit 2 together.

6th row--The same as second row.

7th row--Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 2, decrease 2, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, draw the first two together; stitch over the second thus decreasing again, decrease 2, make 2, knit 2 together.

8th row--The same as second row.

9th row--Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, make 2, decrease 2, make 2, knit 2 together.

10th row--Knit 2 together, drop the second loop of the "make 2," knit 1, draw the first stitch on the right-hand needle over the knitted one, thus decreasing again; knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit 13, purl 1, knit 2. Repeat from first row.

XXXII

EMBROIDERY SUGGESTIONS FOR BOARDING SCHOOL GIRL

A girl who has to make a home of her boarding school should try and make her room and little personal articles as attractive as possible. Her room is her citadel where only her bosom friends and cronies meet. One likes to feel when they enter their room that it is a place where everything is hers and every object in sight means something to her.

A girl might not like to embroider, yet there are hundreds of things that can be done without any needlework decoration, such as stencilling, cut leather or simple appliqué. It always amused me to hear a girl say, "I don't like to embroider." I always feel like asking her, if we are acquainted, if she knows how to embroider. You will find that in nine cases out of ten she does not. Embroidery is like anything else, you have got to know it to like it. It may be you prefer one branch to others. Some branches of this work may be tedious to you but when you stop and think what simple things are classed under embroidery you will find that you have a wide field from which to select.

It is not my object to go into details in regard to stitchery in this chapter but rather to give you some helpful suggestions in regard to knowing what to make and what colours to use. The stitches to be used are fully described in the previous chapters.

The first thing to consider is, are you going to have a bedstead or a couch in your room? Make it the latter unless you have a broad window seat that you can heap up with pillows. No room at a boarding school or college is complete without a half a dozen pretty pillows. When the chairs give out you can use the cushions, Japanese fashion, on the floor. Some girls like to carry their whole room out in cretonne, which is very pretty and dainty if you can afford it. Cretonne covers last about a year and then they get faded and dusty, while a linen background embroidered will last for many years. It may need laundering but it will stand any amount of that. If the embroidery fades a little that also is no drawback as it takes the effect of newness from the room. A room ought to look as if people lived in it and enjoyed it and not as if it were an exhibition room in some department store. Don't think I am trying to encourage untidiness but let the things be used and enjoyed.

When I was about your age for several weeks I spent my spare time embroidering a centre piece for my auntie's dining room table taking care to get just the right colours that would look well with her every day china. It nearly broke my heart when it was finished to have her use it only for state occasions. If my cousins do not use it any more than auntie did it will last for hundreds of years, or be thrown into the rag bag by the next generations if they don't like it. Enjoy all the pretty things that you possess if they are appropriate for the use you intend them for.

Have you ever heard the story of the little dirty boy of the slums who was given a new white tie by his teacher? He had first to wash his hands before he touched it and then he washed himself to wear it and asked his mother for a clean shirt so that everything would go with the tie? Do you know that if you have one beautiful thing in your room of which you are very proud you too will see that all the things around it set off its beauty?

For the girl who has a window seat in a room and wants to keep her room dainty and bright there is nothing as pretty as the lingerie pillow. It may be made of heavy white linen or lawn as you desire and can be oblong, round or square. The cushion is covered in any colour that you prefer and the white top embroidered with large eyelets, Roman cut work, Hardanger or drawn work so that the colour will appear through the openings. Some of the handsomest imported pillows have motifs of real Filet, Irish Crochet or Cluny lace. These motifs are very expensive and not really necessary. The back and front of the linen cover are scalloped on the edges and half an inch above this scalloping a row of large eyelets is worked at intervals. The back and front are laced together with ribbons the same shade as the coloured covering. For a pink and blue room the cushion can be covered with pink and the lingerie slip laced with blue. For a square pillow plan the design on a square and arrange one in each corner and one in the direct centre.

These slips will require frequent laundering.

The lithographed pillow is a thing to be avoided by a girl of refined taste. You would not hang lithograph posters in your bedroom so why feel that it is all right to buy a lithograph pillow?

The chief point to remember in getting little accessories for your room is to keep the colouring as harmonious as possible. Avoid getting the popular things of to-day which are apt to be an eyesore to you to-morrow.

Do not decide quickly to carry out your room in school colours, there will probably be a dozen of the girls who will do this very thing and you will be tired of it before your course is through. A fraternity pillow is to be expected as there are dozens of ways that it may be treated and look quite different from the other girls' pillows.

The general way in which a school or fraternity pillow is made is to cut out of felt the letters, figures and any design that is to be placed on it. The background may be broadcloth, ladies' cloth or felt. Use one of the school or fraternity colours for the appliqué and the other for the background.

One of the handsomest fraternity pillows I ever saw, was one belonging to a Hamilton College man. Hamilton's colours are buff and bright deep blue. The fraternity's colours were black and gold. A handsome piece of Hamilton blue broadcloth was selected for the background. The fraternity pin was reproduced in colour in fine filo silk. The gold silk was a perfect match to the gold in the pin. Even the background of the pin, which was black enamel, was represented by very fine Kensington stitches. The rope-like edge of the pin was reproduced on the pillow by little rope-like sections heavily padded and worked in gold silk. On the back of the pillow were his initial and his class year below. No beruffled ribbons or gaudy cord detracted from its richness. It was a square cushion and its only finish was a large button in each corner where the end was gathered and tucked in to give a round effect.

The school girl of to-day is learning to eliminate the unnecessary trumpery things that cheapen the room and serve as dust gatherers. Outside of the pillow, bed or table covers and an occasional bag for fancy work, laundry or gloves there is no ornate display of handwork. Even the walls are left bare with the exception of a framed print or a few family photographs.

Try if possible and see if you can get a plain paper for your wall. More than one really charming room is spoiled by having an atrocious paper on it. It is really impossible to try to be artistic with an ugly wall paper.

Since stencilling has become so popular, it is not an uncommon thing to have the entire room stencilled.

Suppose you had planned to have your room in lilac, green and light gray. White can be substituted for the gray but it soils more readily than the latter. The floor should be polished and a couple of small rugs or one larger one be used on the floor. The lilac shade should predominate in the rug. The covers should be of the gray or white with a stencilled design in green and lilac. A pretty way to treat the pillow is to get inexpensive lilac material of a coarse texture. Cut a square about fourteen or fifteen inches. Cut four strips of white or gray five inches wide by twenty-five inches long. These strips should be finer than the lilac or of a different weave. Baste one strip on each side of the lilac square. Mitre the strips at the corners. A design is then stencilled on the four strips in lilac and green. The backing of the pillow should be in plain lilac.

If preferred a striped lilac and white piece of material can be used for the centre and back.

For the girl who is fond of initials or monograms I would suggest that the cover be hemstitched and a wreath selected in different sizes appropriate to the article on which it is to be used. These wreaths can be carried out in colour or the background may be coloured and the wreaths white. Inside of the wreath work your monogram or initial. If you desire a Dutch room, carry out this scheme in Delft blue material and have a dark set of Mission furniture.

Nile green linen with wreaths of conventionalized rosebuds or daisies, worked in shades of pink, or white and yellow, suggests a French room, with a brass bedstead. As I have stated in the chapter on initials, the stem stitch is pretty for working single lines of a design that is carried out in satin-stitch.

Stem stitch is too slow a method however to embroider school linens, and I would suggest using a substitute that has the effect and yet does not require the time. A row of outlining is made, and then turn the work back in the same manner, this time instead of working through the material, catch the places where the two successive stitches of the first row overlap (Figure 269.)

Another wrinkle you might be glad to hear of and possibly want to put in practice is how to clean a daintily embroidered piece without washing it, such as a pincushion or pillow top. School is not like home where you can be sure a piece sent to the laundry will have proper attention. Another drawback is that all extras have to be well paid for. If the piece is thickly covered with white talcum powder and allowed to stand without disturbing it for forty-eight hours, the embroidery will emerge almost as clean as if it had been laundered.

Now then there are the curtains for your room. You may be fortunate enough to have a room with dainty dotted swiss or dimity curtains that will go very nicely with the things you are planning and then again you may be inflicted with a pair of cheap imitation lace curtains. If you can possibly afford it change them as soon as possible. Personally I would rather have no curtains than the wrong ones. Dimity, dotted swiss, scrim, plain net or grass linen are materials that are inexpensive as well as artistic. Of course you can make them as fancy as you wish. Any of the above mentioned materials can be stencilled. Rick-rack braid, which is a wavy braid, can be used to edge the net curtains or a Connemara lace design is also appropriate.

A narrow crochet edge can be used on the edge of the scrim curtains or a narrow border of drawn work can be used.

Shadow work is effective on dimity or dotted swiss curtains. Another pretty stitch very similar to the shadow stitch is the skeleton stitch. Instead of the work being on the wrong side it all appears on the right. Work a row of very fine running stitches on the right side. Fagot stitch from side to side catching the thread into the running stitches. The work is done from the centre of the flower to the tip of the petal. Do not end your thread but weave over and under the fagotting stitch to the end of the petal, leaf or space on which you are working.

The curtains may be sash lengths or may be the full length of the window but do not make them longer than to reach the sill.

THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS

GARDEN CITY, N. Y.

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal signs=.

Obvious punctuation errors repaired.

Obvious typos and errors repaired:

Maderia -> Madeira bottonholed -> buttonholed pading -> padding diferent -> different faggotting -> fagotting neccessary -> necessary separarely -> separately woolen -> woollen

It is not necessary to to work -> It is not necessary to work about an an inch -> about an inch

Hyphenation is inconsistent and has been left in that state where there was a balance of with and without spellings e.g. chain-stitching and chainstitching, handwork and hand-work and over-cast and overcast.