Part 2

It was built by a Greek Princess called Modína. Here I was first enabled to perform my Friday’s prayer, which I did with great devotion, and then went forth to view the town. It is the port of Brússa, and forms a safe harbour, being closed against the wind from seven points and open only to the North. The anchorage is excellent. At the head of the harbour stands the custom-house, the lease of which amounts to a million aspers. The town is built by the sea-shore, on a low rocky ground. Prince Orkhán, with his father Osmán’s permission, conquered this town in the year 721 (1321) and destroyed the walls in several places, that it might no longer afford shelter to the infidels. It is governed by a Voivode, subordinate to Brússa, the chief seat of the Sanjak of Khodávendkiár. The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers a day. His annual revenue amounts to two thousand piastres. This appointment is sometimes given to the Mollá of Brússa as Páshmáklik (pin-money). The houses are all faced with brick. There are three mosques (jámí) and seven mesjids, three kháns, one bath, two schools for boys, and two hundred small streets; but no room for reading the Korán or tradition, because the greater number of the inhabitants are Greeks. There are fine gardens producing superior figs and grapes. From the excellence of its vinegar, it has acquired the name of Dárkhill (vinegar-house). South-east of the town we passed on horseback continuously through gardens and the cultivated field called Filehdár. The river Nílúfer, not fordable in the beginning of spring, is a clear stream, which issuing from the mountains Rúhbán, Ketelí and Castel, waters the valley of Fillehdár and disembogues into the White Sea. The main road crosses it over a handsome bridge, each arch of which resembles the arch of heaven; its name, as well as that of the river, was received from its builder the Princess Nílúfer, daughter of a Sultán (Orkhán): after continuing our journey among gardens and vineyards for two hours, we reached the town of Brússa, the emporium of silk, the ancient capital of this country (Bithynia).

The town of Brússa having been built towards the North on natural rocks has no ditch, but on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) and the quarter of the Mills, it has a deep one, which at the time of the Asiatic rebellions of Kará Yazijí, Kallender and Sa’íd Arab was filled up. Some of the stones of the walls are of the size of the cupola of a bath, and some bear Greek inscriptions on them. The town is protected against southerly and easterly winds from its being situated at the foot of Mount Olympus. The houses have a northern aspect and look over the plain of Filehdár. The fortress, the circumference of which is eleven thousand paces, has six thousand battlements, sixty-seven towers, and four gates, viz. the gate of the head fountain, the prison-gate, the hot-baths’-gate to the west, and the gate of the fishmarket. This stronghold was besieged more than once by the Seljúkians, who came with an army of twenty thousand men; the siege lasted between seven and eight months, the besiegers retiring only on the approach of winter. Osmán the founder of the Ottoman dynasty besieged it three times, but was compelled on the last occasion by an attack of the gout to retire to Iconium. He sent his son Orkhán with Sheikh Hájí Begtásh, who renewed the siege, and built two great towers, one at the side of the hot-baths (Kaplijah), and the other on the side of the head fountain (Búnár-báshí), which took seven months to complete. Orkhán posted himself at the hot-bath, his nephew Timúr-beg, at the head-fountain, and Yalabánjik-beg at the mountain’s side. It surrendered in 722 (1322) after a year’s siege, and Osmán died at the moment he received the news. Orkhán his successor entered Brússa with Hájí Begtásh, there fixed his residence, and buried his father’s body in the castle. Osmán conquered seventy towns during the lifetime of his father Ertoghrúl. His first conquest was in Kojá-Ilí by Akcheh Kojá. Near Nicæa at the castle of Wáilakabád, he begat his son Orkhán on Sheikh Edebáli’s daughter, who was related to the prophet, so that the Ottoman Sultáns are Seyyids or Sherífs on the mother’s side. Sheikh Túrsún their first divine was a relation of Sheikh Edebáli, and said the first prayer from the pulpit in Sultán Osmán’s name. Brússa soon became populated by mussulman colonists from all quarters.

_Description of the Buildings of Brússa._

The interior of the fortress contains two thousand houses, and many high palaces, but no gardens, there are seven quarters and as many mosques, one bath and twenty shops. The mosque of Sultán Orkhán is one hundred and ten feet square, with a mináreh of one story. Sultán Orkhán lies buried here, and the large drum called Orkhán’s drum is suspended in this mosque; it was used during Sultán Orkhán’s reign. The palace in the castle was the residence of the early Ottoman Emperors to the time of Mohammed II., who removed to Constantinople; Sultán Murád I. having previously resided at Adrianople. Since Brússa has had its own Bóstánjí-bashí (like Constantinople) the streets of the castle are paved with large stones, and in some places stones are found with inscriptions of the time of the Infidels, by which may be ascertained how long the houses have been built; they are all built of stone, faced with brick, and have a kind of sexangular chimneys to let out the smoke, which look very well. In some places also grow cypress-nut trees and vines, and from the elevation of the ground, the air is very wholesome.

_The public Officers of Brússa._

The first is the Páshá of the Sanják, Khodavendkiár, appointed with a revenue of 618,079 aspers kháss. There are four hundred and twenty fiefs called ziámet and one thousand and five tímárs. The feudal militia is commanded by an Aláï-beg, Cherí-báshí and Júz-báshí, and assemble at the Páshá’s command in time of war. The Páshá leads five hundred men of his own. The judge (Mollá) is appointed with 500 aspers, and is promoted from hence to the posts of Adrianople and Constantinople, it is a high office, valued annually at forty thousand piastres. Seven Náíbs (deputies) in the town are subordinate to the Mollá. The five other districts are those of Kíná, Fileh, Abolonia, Castel, and Chokúrjeh. The civil officers are, a Chokádár of the janissaries, a chamberlain (Kápújí-báshí); the commanding officer of the janissaries, the colonel of the armourers (Jebejí), the officer of the Sípáhís (Kiayá-yerí); the Muftí, the head of the Sherífs, the inspector of the silk, of the custom-house, the Voivode of the town and the provost, who all have power of life and death.

The lower town was fortified in the time of Mohammed III. the conqueror of Erla against the Anatolian rebels Kará Yazíjí, Kalender-oghlí, Delí Hassán, and Jennet-oghlí, but it is not very strong; it extends from East to West to the foot of Mount Olympus for the length of one farsang and the breadth of half a farsang. The circuit is fifteen hundred paces, the walls are not very high. There is but one ditch near the gate of the Tátárs and no where else, and there is no need of it, because if an enemy were to dig approaches, water would rush up in the trenches. Guns and falconets are mounted on the towers, which are fired on festivals; there is no other garrison than the doorkeepers, but there are six thousand guards in the town. The gates are of iron and above each are towers whence grenades and stones may be thrown on the besiegers. The gate of the Tátárs opens to the East, that of Filehdár to the North; and that of Hassan Páshá towards the Kiblah. There are twenty-thousand large and small houses built in the ancient style; the most conspicuous of all is the ancient residence of the Emperors, in the upper town or fortress, it has three baths and three hundred rooms, but no garden on account of the narrowness of the place. There are in the whole town one hundred and sixty-six quarters of Moslims, seven of Armenians, nine of Greeks, six of Jews, and one of Copts. The quarter of the Meskins (Lepers) is a separate quarter leading to the road of Sultán Murád. The upper part of the town with Mount Olympus rising in the background is beautiful when seen from the plain of Filehdár, an hour’s distance from it, and I can truly say that I have seen nothing like it during my travels. Brússa is a very devout town, abounding with Divines, expounders of the Korán and keepers of tradition, who are found no where else so numerous, excepting at Baghdád. Mount Olympus at the back of the town on the south side is a mine of living water, no less than one thousand and sixty well-known springs flow from it, and supply water in abundance to the palaces and houses. It abounds also in all kinds of flowers, particularly in syringa (Erghiwán), the annual assembly of Emír Sultán held in the season when the syringa is in perfection being much celebrated. The inhabitants being fair, the air good, the water full of holiness, contribute altogether, to render Brússa one of the most delicious spots on earth.

_Description of the Imperial and other Mosques._

There are in all one thousand and forty places of worship, three hundred and fifty-seven of which are mosques of Sultáns, Vezírs, and other great men. The first is the great mosque Ulú-jami’í built by Ilderím Báyazíd, on an airy elevated spot of Brússa, it is supported within by large square pillars, the bases of which are gilt and painted to the height of a man, with inscriptions, such as, _Yá Hannán_, “O all gracious!” _Yá Mennán_, “O all merciful,” _Yá Diyán_, “O all faithful!” _Yá Hassán_, “O all beautiful!” and other names of God. The letters of these inscriptions are three cubits high; nineteen cupolas covered with lead and crowned with golden crescents are supported by these pillars. The twentieth cupola is placed on the centre of the mosque, and is left open so that light and air may enter, but birds and animals are shut out by a grating of brass wire. Directly beneath this cupola is a round basin of water, wherein fish are swimming and whence the Moslim community take the water necessary for their ablutions. The pulpit made of black nut is skilfully carved and chiselled with flowers and arabesques of all kinds. It must be absolutely seen, for it is so wonderful that it cannot easily be described, and has no equal any where except at Sinope on the Black Sea. The mahfil or place where the Muëzzins repeat the proclamation of prayer, is painted with great art. The mosque is lighted by glass windows on the four sides, and the floor covered with carpets which are not found elsewhere because this mosque is so richly endowed. It is nightly lighted by seven hundred lamps, and is crowded with people at all hours, because no less than seventy lectures are read here on scientific subjects to two thousand scholars. The distance from one of the side-gates to the other is three hundred and fifty feet, and from the Kiblah to the mihráb one hundred and eighty feet; it has three gates. On the left side, the gate of the Emperor’s oratory (mahfil), the gate of the Kiblah (opposite to the mihráb), and on the right side, the gate of the Mehkemeh. Outside of the Kiblah-gate is a stone bench; it has no great courtyard like other mosques, but a small one, in the centre of which the Muftí Abdul-azíz Efendí has built a basin with water-pipes.

On the right and left are two high brick mináreh, and at that of the Mehkemeh-gate is a fountain (_jet d’eau_), the water of which comes from Mount Olympus, but it is now in ruins, the pipes having become decayed by age. When it rains the water collects in the basin of this fountain on the top of the Mináreh, and the birds flock hither to drink. In short there is no more holy mosque than this in Brússa; it is the Ayá Sofía of Brússa, and has therefore been described the first, but the first consecrated in chronological order, was that of Orkhán in the upper castle.

_The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I._

On the west side of Brússa at half an hour’s distance, in a separate suburb called Eski Kaplijah is Sultán Murád’s mosque, built in a peculiar style, because the architect was a Frank. The lower part is devoted to worship, the upper devoted to science, is distributed into rooms for students, so that each may follow the Imám’s directions at prayer. The length from the Kiblah to the mihráb is one hundred feet, and the breadth seventy feet. On one of the columns appears a falcon, which having been recalled by Sultán Murád I. and not obeying, was by his curse changed into stone. This mosque has one gate, and a mináreh one story high, but no courtyard.

_Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I._

It is a small mosque, situate on the East side of Brússa, surrounded by fields and gardens, and not much frequented on account of its distance from the town; it is one hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred in width, in the old simple style, and remained unfinished during the war of Timúr, but was completed by Mússa Ilderím’s son.

_The Mosque of Mohammed I._

This celebrated and elegant mosque, known by the name of Yeshil Imáret (the green building) entirely built of marble, stands upon a hill on the East side of Brússa, and has two cupolas without columns, one hundred and eight feet long and eighty feet in width. It is impossible to give an idea of the mihráb (altar) and minber (pulpit) because the carving is beyond all conception; the only gate is also ornamented with such elegant arabesque carvings, that they could not be represented finer even by the pen on Chinese paper. The stone-cutter who worked this gate, spent full three years on it, during which he received forty thousand ducats from Mohammed I. as is generally reported; in short, there is no mosque of more elegant and exquisite workmanship in the world. The reason of its being named the green building, arises from the cupola and the mináreh being covered with green fayence which radiates like emeralds in sunshine. Tall plane trees surround the outside. I saw no finer mosque in Brússa, and other travellers say no where else.

_Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I._

On the west side of the town is a certain suburb composed of this mosque and its appurtenances of colleges, kháns and gardens. The builder was Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. and father of Mohammed II. who died at Adrianople and was buried here. It is a holy mosque and has two cupolas. From the gate of the Kiblah to the mihráb the length is one hundred and fifty feet, the width sixty. The (mihráb) altar, (minber) pulpit and station of the Muëzzins (mahfil) are in the ancient simple style, built in the year 850 (1446). Tall plane-trees adorn the courtyard. Many Princes of the Ottoman family are buried here.

_The Mosque of Emír Sultán._

This mosque is built on a mound and is the last of the Imperial Mosques which I visited.

On the east side of the town is the mosque of Monlá Arab Jebbárí, a small mosque built after the model of the great mosque Ulú-jami’í, its fine situation invites the people to pray there. The mosque of Uftádí Efendí is in the inner castle. Of the Mesjíds or small mosques (where Khutbeh is not said on Fridays) it is the principal. The Mesjíd Zeiniler, the building of the Muftí Abd-ul-latíf, where I read the Korán from beginning to end in one day, without interruption. Here the Mollá Khosrew composed his famous book. At that time two hundred lead-covered mosques and seven hundred minárehs might be seen from Kází-yailá, a height half way up Mount Olympus.

_The Colleges of Brússa._

The colleges are those of Orkhán, Ilderím, Murád, Mohammed I., Emír-sultán, Issa-beg, Kássem páshá, Joneid, Kadrí, Tenárí, Zein-ud-dín Háfí, Báyazíd-páshá, and Hamza-beg.

_The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa._

There are three hundred convents, the most handsome of which are, that of Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín containing eighty cells for Dervíshes, and a place for the dance (sima’a). That of Emír-sultán entirely covered with lead, which stands on a high hill. That of Zeiniler of the sect of Na’amán Ben Thábet. That of Uftádí Efendí, in the inner castle, of Khalvetí dervíshes. That of Abdál Murád Sultán of the Begtáshís, men fervent in piety, who bareheaded and barefooted with open breasts, wait upon the Moslims who frequent this delightful walk; it was built by Orkhán and possesses more than a thousand kettles, pans, and copper vessels; visitors perform their devotions here. That of Sheikh Kílí near the camel-driver’s station, the dervishes are Begtáshís and very poor, having no endowment, it was built by Sultán Orkhán. That of Abdál Sultán Mússa built by the same. That of Ak-bi’ík Sultán of the order of Begtásh. That of Abú Ishak Kasúlí who is buried at Erzerúm within the gate of Tebríz. That of Gulshení; seventeen Convents of Khalvetís; nine of Kadris; three of Nakshbendís; one of Rúfa’áïs; one of Kalenders, and one of wrestlers.

The Imárets (dining establishments for the poor) are those of Murád I. Ilderím Báyazíd, Emír Sultán, and that of Mohammed I., called the green one.

There are one hundred and eight kháns; the principal one is the rice khán, which has iron gates, a large stable, worthy of Antar, with two hundred cells; the silk khán, of the same size, where the inspector of the silk resides; the custom of the silk is let for three hundred purses a year; the butter khán on the gate of which is suspended a cask, which, being filled with búza, was once drank out by a single man who had laid a bet that he would do it. There are also seventy kháns called Mujerred Kháns for unmarried people. The cáravánseráï of Alí Páshá was built by Sinán the famous architect, and has doorkeepers.

The fountains of Brússa amount to the number of two thousand and sixty, every one of which vies with the spring of life. The Muftí Azíz Efendí himself built two hundred, his name appearing on all of them, with an inscription begging for a fátihah from those who drink. Besides these public fountains, each of the twenty-three thousand houses has its own supply. From certain springs water-courses pass from house to house, along the streets, and carry water to many basins, water-pipes, baths and gardens. The town being built at the foot of Mount Olympus, and the houses rising in rows one above the other, the water naturally flows to them. There are seventeen fountains, from which this large quantity of water is derived, the principal one is that called Búnár-báshí, which rushes out of the rock in several places on Mount Olympus and spreads itself over the town. The head fountains of Súnderlí, of Chatál Kainak, of Kepíz, of Náshí Dersí, of Sobrán, of Arejlí, of Chárshú, of Bellor Kainak, of Samánlí Kainak, the latter obtained the name of straw-boiler, because it issues from Mount Olympus, flows for some distance underground, and comes out again at another place, which is proved by the re-appearance of straws that have been put into the upper part of the stream; the Sheker Kainak (sugar-boiler); the Selám Kiassí Kainaghí; the Királ Kainak (king’s boiler); the Murád-dedeh Kainaghí; in short there are seventeen large fountains which yield the clearest and coldest water; but the channels decaying in the course of time, the keepers of the aqueducts, at night, throw horsedung into them, by which the openings are obstructed and the purity of the water is spoiled; they would not dare to do this in the day-time because they would be punished for it by the public officers.

The Water-mills are an hundred and seventy, which succeed one another from the head fountain (Búnár-báshí) to the fish-market and all the way down from Balabánjik; also in the valley of Eghzándí, at the tanners, the quarter of the lepers, the foot of the Castle, the gate of Hassán Páshá, &c. The establishments for distributing water (Sebíls) are six hundred. Although here, as at Brússa, there is such abundance of water that these establishments are superfluous, yet the generosity of the Ottoman Sultáns provided them for the distribution of iced water in the summer months.

_Praise of the Baths of Brússa._

The cleanliness and elegance of the bath of Sultán Mohammed is beyond all description; the bath of Ainebegí-Charshú was founded by Ilderím Khán; the bath of Takht-ul-kala’; the bath of Kayaghán Charshú; the bath of Bostání, of the castle of the Cutlers, of Murád, and of Ilderím, have all two rooms each (Chifteh). There are besides three thousand private baths in the palaces, some of which are also devoted by the proprietors to public use. The hot-baths in Turkish are called Ilíjeh; in Arabic, Maíhamím; in Persian, Germáb; in Rúmelí, Kainarjeh (boiling); and at Brússa, Kaplíjeh (from [Greek: kapnos] smoke, which hangs over these hot springs;) in the Mogolic language they are called Kerensa, and in Europe, bagnio. These springs are impregnated with sulphur from mines which they pass through underground, and when mixed with cold water, are equally wholesome for bathing or drinking, but if drank to excess, it is said, they cause the teeth to fall out. There are many hundred hot springs at Brússa, which being neglected in the time of the Infidels, were not covered. The hot-bath of old Kaplíjeh, built by Murád I. has a great cupola covering a large basin ten feet square, on the four sides of which are washing-tubs, with two retired cabinets (Khalvetí), upon entering these the flesh feels soft as an ear-lap and all uncleanliness is boiled as it were from the body. To drink the water is a good remedy for palpitation and throbbing of the heart; but a certain method is prescribed to those using the baths, which if neglected brings on pleurisy.

The following are the rules to be observed:—First, take a common ablution at the edge of the basin, then wash the head with warm water, throwing some over the body preparatory to walking into the bath, till the whole body is covered, do not remain too long, and dress quickly upon coming out, in order to avoid catching cold; this precaution is necessary, and if neglected causes many ailments. The most powerful of all the hot-baths of Brússa is that of Murád I. the dressing-place being built in the old style is not cold.

_Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán._

The building is small, but its water is very useful in leprosy; lepers who have been afflicted for forty years, are cured if they drink and bathe here forty days. Persons affected with this disease lose their eyebrows and eyelashes, and their breath becomes infectious. God avert it from us! There are for this reason separate quarters for the leprous (Meskin) in all towns in Rúm.

_Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)_

It is a small building, the spring is very hot and sulphurous; it is principally used as a remedy for itch and scab, and the waiters (Dellák) know how to treat people so affected. Those who can bear to be rubbed by them in the private cabinets for half an hour, will see within twenty-four hours a miraculous alteration; the skin peels off in black scales, and the body appears white as silver. In short, the suburb of old Kaplíjeh, where the above springs exist, consists of three hundred houses with gardens and hot springs, some for men, some for women, some for children, and some for old men. The inhabitants of Brússa, who are acquainted with their qualities, come here to stay a fortnight with their relations, and use the baths.

_Description of New Kaplíjeh._