Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Part 1
NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS
IN
EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA,
IN
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,
BY
EVLIYA EFENDI.
TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH
BY
THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER, F.M.R.A.S., &c. &c. &c.
VOL. II.
LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND;
SOLD BY WILLIAM H. ALLEN & CO. LEADENHALL STREET.
M.DCCC.L.
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.
CONTENTS.
Page
JOURNEY TO BRUSSA.
Description of the Town and Fortress of Modania 2
Description of the Buildings of Brússa 4
The Public Officers of Brússa ib.
Description of the Imperial and other Mosques 6
The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I. 7
The Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I. ib.
The Mosque of Mohammed I. ib.
The Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. ib.
The Mosque of Emír Sultán 8
The Colleges of Brússa ib.
The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills, and Sebíls of Brússa ib.
Praise of the Baths of Brússa 10
Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán ib.
Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplíjeh) 11
Description of New Kaplíjeh ib.
Description of the Market of Brússa 12
Description of the bridge of Erghándí 13
Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa 14
A Dissertation on Mountains 15
Description of the Ice-worm 16
Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa 17
The Climate of Brússa ib.
The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa ib.
Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns 18
Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán 19
Conquests of Sultán Orkhán ib.
Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb ib.
Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the Great Saint ib.
Short account of Sultan Murád I. 21
Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár ib.
Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd ib.
Short account of Sultán Mohammed I. 22
Short account of the reign of Murád II. ib.
Tombs of Ottoman Princes 23
Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa 24
JOURNEY TO NICOMEDIA.
Qualities of a Mineral Spring 30
Pilgrimages of Nicomedia 33
JOURNEY TO BATUM AND TREBISONDE.
Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope 36
Description of the Castle of Samsún 39
Description of the Castle of Onia 40
Description of the Town and Ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians 41
Begs of Abaza Tribes 43
The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde ib.
Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde 44
Form and size of the Town, and description of its Monuments ib.
Description of the Lower Castle ib.
Description of the Mosques 45
Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c. 46
Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde 47
Occupations, Guilds, &c. ib.
Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts 48
Eatables and Beverages ib.
Walks of Trebisonde 49
Praise of the River Kosh-oghlán 50
Visit to the Monuments of Sultans and Saints ib.
JOURNEY TO GEORGIA AND MINGRELIA.
Description of Mingrelia 51
JOURNEY TO AZAK (ASSOV.)
Description of the Land of Abáza 52
Specimen of the Abáza Language 58
Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza ib.
JOURNEY TO THE CRIMEA.
Description of the Castle of Baliklava 67
Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán 70
Return to Constantinople 73
EXPEDITION AGAINST MALTA IN THE YEAR 1055 (1645).
Station of Gallipolis 78
Siege of the Fortress of Canea 79
Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá 83
JOURNEY TO ERZERUM.
Gebize 89
Praise of the Lake of Sabánja 91
The Station of Khandak-bazárí 92
Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí 93
Pilgrimage to Habíb Karamání 94
Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Bábá 96
Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh 97
Form and Size of Amasia 98
Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c. 100
Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs 101
The Town and Castle of Nígíssár 102
The Hot-Spring of Nígíssár 103
Pilgrimages of Nígíssár 104
The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm ib.
Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún 107
Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm 108
Description of the great river Euphrates 110
Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm 111
Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm ib.
Of the Mosques ib.
Fountains 112
Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and Markets 113
Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c. ib.
Genealogies of Erzerúm ib.
Description of Mount Egerlí 115
Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr ib.
Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní 116
Stations of our Military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík 117
Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan 118
Description of the Hot-baths 119
Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis 120
Description of the Hot-bath 120
Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík 121
Size and form of Magú 122
Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia 123
Curiosities of Uch Kilisse 125
Pilgrimage of Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb ib.
JOURNEY FROM NAKHSHIVAN TO TABRIZ.
Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara 129
Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz 133
Description of the Mosques of Tabríz 134
Colleges of Tabríz 135
Praise of the Air and Climate 136
Account of the Persian Crown (Táj) ib.
Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c. 137
Account of a curious conversation 139
General Praise of Tabríz 140
Bad and reprehensible things in Irán 141
Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz 142
Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám Gházán 143
Description of Merághá 144
Description of Aján 145
Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl 147
JOURNEY FROM TABRIZ TO ERIVAN.
Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí 149
Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván) 150
Description of the important town of Genje 154
Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs ib.
Description of the Castle of Shekí 156
Account of the Tribe of Ettels 157
Pilgrimage of Ashár-bábá 158
Praise of Mount Caucasus ib.
Description of the Town of Shamákhí 159
Description of the Fortress of Bakú 162
Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia 163
Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant 164
Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates 165
Size and figure of the Castle 166
Description of the Iron Gate ib.
Buildings within the Castle 167
Pilgrimages 168
The Pilgrimage of the Forty ib.
JOURNEY TO GEORGIA.
Description of the Castle of Serír-ul-Allán 169
Tomb of Emír Sultán 170
Description of the old town of Kákht ib.
Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz.: Betlís 171
Size and Figure of the Fortress 172
Products ib.
The Hot-baths of Tiflís ib.
Description of the Castle of Kúsekht 173
Description of Súrán ib.
Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language ib.
Genealogy of the Georgian Kings 173
Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultán Selím’s conquest 174
Khas or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs 175
Number of Ziámets and Timárs ib.
Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka 176
Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir 177
Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm 178
Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán ib.
JOURNEY TO ERIVAN IN THE YEAR 1057 (1647).
Journeys on our return 185
JOURNEY TO BAIBURD, JANJA, ISPER, TORTUM AND AKCHEKALA’A.
Form and size of the Castle 188
Description of the River Jorúgh 189
Pilgrimages ib.
Description of the Castle of Tortúm 190
Size and Shape of the Castle 191
Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia 195
Of the Language of the Mingrelians 197
Moral Reflections 198
Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the month of Zílka’deh 1057 (1647) 199
Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh ib.
Description of the Castle of Kumákh 201
Description of the Castle of Erzenján 202
Praise of the Eatables and Beverages 204
Pilgrimages ib.
Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár 205
Description of a Lion 207
Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum 208
Description of the Castle of Ládík 209
The Walks of Ládík 210
The warm baths of Ládík 211
Description of the Lake of Ládík ib.
Pilgrimages of Ládík 212
Description of Merzifún ib.
Description of the Baths 213
Praise of Pírdedeh ib.
Products 215
Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún ib.
Journey from Merzifún to Koprí 216
Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí 217
Description of the town of Gumish 220
Praise of Sheikh Bárdákli-bábá 225
Form of the Castle 227
The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán ib.
Description of Angora 229
Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint 231
The Eatables and Products ib.
Pilgrimages 233
Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazárí 239
Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople 240
Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín 241
NOTES.
_Note 1, p. 16._—_It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top._
The summit is easily reached in nine hours, on horseback, the journey having been accomplished in that time by the Translator, in the company of Mr. Stratton, the British Minister, and B. Bielfields, the Prussian Chargé d’affaires, in the year 1804. Evliya evidently places the time necessary for rest, and Turkish indolence, to the account of the length and difficulty of the road.
_Note 2, p. 197._—_The inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the Istikbál (solemn meeting.)_
See Morier’s Travels, First journey through Persia. BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ: “At two o’Clock we came to Ahmadiéh, at half past two we passed a small fort called _Khosh Aub_, where a large body of people were waiting our passage. (In the Journey this is the first notice of the _Istakball_, which so frequently recurs in the future progress of the mission, as an honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distinguished traveller, and to conduct him in his passage.) They were all armed with pikes, matchlocks, swords, and shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute. They then advanced to us and being announced by the _Arz-Beg_, wished us a prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility “_Khosh amedeed_, you are welcome.” As we proceeded our party was headed by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horseback, all in tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited them with his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen of the village performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped to increase the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace with us, until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little army who were waiting our reception at Borazjoon: these also fired their muskets.”
_Note 3, p. 211._—_The river Khalliz._
This was no doubt originally called _Halys_, which seems to have formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil Irmák.
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.
THE
TRAVELS
OF
EVLIYA EFENDI.
JOURNEY TO BRUSSA.
Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii to praise him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels and Eden, Húrís and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses and daffodils, nightingales and murmuring fountains, pearls and corals; the moon and the radiant sun: greetings also be to Ahmed the prophet, who by his family accomplished his divine mission! Praise be to the Creator! who out of nothing called me into existence and destined me to obey him, imposing on me the duties of Islám, the prayer, fast, alms and pilgrimage. In accomplishment of this sacred duty, I, his lowly servant Evliyá, left my family, and, with the desire of performing the pilgrimage, first tried my strength by commencing, in the month of Moharrem 1040, a journey on foot through the environs and quarters of Constantinople; the account of which is contained in the first volume of these travels. My ardent wish was to see Jerusalem and Baghdád, Mecca and Medina, Cairo and Damascus, according to my dream related in the introduction to the first volume of these travels, when the prophet appeared to me in the night, and I, by a slip of the tongue, said to him, instead of the usual form, _Shifá’at yá ressúl-allah_ (Intercession, O envoy of God) _Siyáhat yá ressúl-allah_ (Travelling, O envoy of God) and he, graciously smiling, granted my wish.
“Whatever God willeth, he prepares the means for its accomplishment.” Thus ten years after this dream, when I came to the house of my friend Okjí Zádeh Chelebí, I found that preparations were made for a journey to Brússa. He invited me to be his companion according to the maxim, “First the companion, then the road;” and said, “Let us spend a fortnight in visiting all the remarkable monuments at Brússa: the tombs of the Ottoman Sultáns, particularly that of the great Saint Emír Sultán, and by this visit illuminate our hearts.” I accepted this proposal as a divine inspiration, saying, “in God’s name!” to which all present responded, giving us their best wishes for a prosperous journey.
For the first time then, without the knowledge of my family, I set out on this journey, in the year 1050, accompanied by twenty friends in a boat of Modania, leaving the town of Constantinople, the place of my birth, with the intention of seeing other towns and villages. The present volume gives an account of this journey, which I undertook in consequence of the verse of the Korán, “Travel therein safely day and night,” and describes all the hardships I underwent; for according to the tradition of the prophet; “A journey is a fragment of hell.” We weighed anchor at Emírgúneh, on the Bosphorus, and called at Findiklí to take on board as passengers some clever ship-builders; and in the morning on the first Friday of Moharrem of the year 1050, the boatmen finding the time favourable for sailing, unfurled the sails and weathered the point of the Seraglio; laying the ship’s head towards Brússa, the object of our voyage. All the passengers were in high spirits, and some of them implored the Lord’s assistance for a happy voyage by singing spiritual songs. Some Musicians encouraged me to accompany them in their strains, and so, after having preluded awhile, I fixed on the measure girdánieh, and sung three tetrasticks and one sumáyí of the compositions of Dervísh Omerbesteh. Several of the boatmen accompanied us on their instruments, chokúr, with such effect, that water came into the mouths of the hearers with delight. Amidst these amusements we came to the island of Heibelí (Prince’s Islands), eighteen miles distant from Constantinople, and nine in circumference; it contains a famous Convent which is visited every year by many boats from Constantinople. The inhabitants are all wealthy Greeks, captains and masters of ships. The public officers are the Bostánji-báshí (of Constantinople) and an officer of the Janissaries. From hence we weighed anchor with a brisk gale, the vessel cutting the waves with a rapidity as though fire was bursting forth from it, and after five hours’ sailing landed happily on the coast of Modania.
_Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania._