Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836. Volume I. Proceedings of the First Expedition, 1826-1830

CHAPTER XXIV.

Chapter 5154,890 wordsPublic domain

A FEW NAUTICAL REMARKS UPON THE PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN; AND UPON THAT THROUGH THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS, OR MAGELLAN.

Ships bound from the Atlantic to any of the ports in the Pacific, will find it advantageous to keep within one hundred miles of the coast of Eastern Patagonia, as well to avoid the heavy sea that is raised by the westerly gales, which prevail to the eastward, and increase in strength according to the distance from the land, as to profit by the variableness of the wind when it is in the western board. Near the coast, from April to September, when the sun has north declination, the winds prevail more from the W.N.W. to N.N.W. than from any other quarter. Easterly gales are of very rare occurrence, but even when they do blow, the direction being obliquely upon the coast, I do not consider it at all hazardous to keep the land on board. In the opposite season, when the sun has south declination, the winds will incline from the southward of west, and frequently blow hard; but, as the coast is a weather shore, the sea goes down immediately after the gale. In this season, although the winds are generally against a ship's making quick progress, yet as they seldom remain fixed in one point, and frequently shift backward and forward six or eight points in as many hours, advantage may be taken of the change so as to keep close in with the coast.

Having once made the land, which should be done to the southward of Cape Blanco, it will be beneficial to keep it topping on the horizon, until the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens be passed.

With respect to this part of the voyage, whether to pass through Strait Le Maire or round Staten Island, much difference of opinion exists. Prudence, I think, suggests the {464} latter; yet I should very reluctantly give up the opportunity that might offer of clearing the strait, and therefore of being so much more to windward. With a southerly wind it would not be advisable to attempt the strait; for, with a weather tide, the sea runs very cross and deep, and might severely injure and endanger the safety of a small vessel, and to a large one do much damage. In calm weather it would be still more imprudent (unless the western side of the strait can be reached, where a ship might anchor), on account of the tides setting over to the Staten Island side; where, if it becomes advisable to anchor, it would necessarily be in very deep water, and close to the land. With a northerly wind the route seems not only practicable, but very advantageous, and it would require some resolution to give up the opportunity so invitingly offered. I doubt whether northerly winds, unless they are very strong, blow through the strait--if not, a ship is drifted over to the eastern shores, where, from the force of the tides, she must be quite unmanageable.

Captain Fitz Roy seems to think there is neither difficulty nor risk in passing the strait. The only danger that does exist, and that may be an imaginary one, is the failure of the wind. Ships passing through it from the south, are not so liable to the failure of the south-westerly wind, unless it be light, and then a breeze will probably be found from N.W., at the northern end of the strait. The anchorage in Good Success Bay, however, is at hand, should the wind or tide fail.

In passing to leeward of Staten Island, the tide race, which extends for some distance off Cape St. John, at the N.E. end of the island, must be avoided: otherwise there exist no dangers.

The anchorage under New Year Islands, although it is a wild one, the bottom bad, and the tide very strong, yet offers good shelter from south-west winds, and might be occupied with advantage during the existence of a gale from that quarter, which is so unfavourable for ships bound round the Horn.

After passing Staten Island, if the wind be westerly, the {465} ship should be kept upon the starboard tack, unless it veer to the southward of S.S.W., until she reaches the latitude of 60° south, and then upon that tack on which most westing may be made. In this parallel, however, the wind is thought to prevail more from the eastward than from any other quarter. Never having passed round Cape Horn in the summer season, I may not perhaps be justified in opposing my opinion to that of others, who, having tried both seasons, give the preference to the summer months. The advantage of long days is certainly very great, but, from my experience of the winds and weather during these opposite seasons at Port Famine, I preferred the winter passage, and in our subsequent experience of it, found no reason to alter my opinion. Easterly and northerly winds prevail in the winter off the cape, whilst southerly and westerly winds are constant during the summer months; and not only are the winds more favourable in the winter, but they are moderate in comparison to the fury of the summer gales.

Having passed the meridian of Cape Pillar, it will yet be advisable to take every opportunity of making westing in preference to northing until the meridian of 82° or 84° be reached, which will enable a ship to steer through the North-westerly winds that prevail between the parallels of 50° and 54°. (See Hall's South America, Appendix.)

With respect to the utility of the barometer as an indicator of the weather that is experienced off Cape Horn, I do not think it can be considered so unfailing a guide as it is in the lower or middle latitudes. Captain Fitz-Roy, however, has a better opinion of the indications shewn by this valuable instrument: my opinion is, that although the rise or fall at times precedes the change, yet it more frequently accompanies it. The following sketch of the movement of the barometer, and of the weather that we experienced, may be not without its use.

Being to the north of Staten Island for three days preceding full moon, which occurred on the 3d April (1829), we had very foggy weather, with light winds from the eastward and {466} northward, causing a fall of the mercury from 29.90 to 29.56. On the day of full moon the column rose, and we had a beautiful morning, during which the high mountains of Staten Island were quite unclouded, as were also those of Tierra del Fuego. At noon, however, a fresh gale from the S.W. set in, and enveloped the land with a dense mist. No sooner had the wind changed, than the mercury rose to 29.95, but fell again the next morning; and with the descent the wind veered round to N.W., and blew strongly with thick cloudy weather and rain, which continued until the following noon, when the wind veered to S.W., the barometer at 29.54, having slightly risen; but after the change it fell, and continued to descend gradually until midnight, when we had a fresh gale from W.S.W. When this wind set in, the mercury rose, and continued to rise, as the wind veered without decreasing in strength to S.S.W., until it reached 29.95, when it fell again and the weather moderated, but without any change of wind. During the descent of the mercury, the sky with us was dull and overcast, with squalls of wind and rain, but on shore it seemed to be very fine sunshiny weather.

The column now fell to 29.23, and during its descent the weather remained the same, dull and showery; but as soon as the mercury became stationary, a fresh breeze set in from the southward, with fine weather.

After this to new moon the weather was very unsettled, the wind veering between South and W.S.W.; the barometer rising as it veered to the former, and falling as it became more westerly; but on no occasion did it precede the change.

The mean height of the barometer is about 29.5.

The mercury stands lowest with N.W. winds, and highest with S.E.

With the wind at N.W. or northerly the mercury is low; if it falls to 29 inches or 28.80, a S.W. gale may be expected, but it will not commence until the column has ceased to descend. It frequently, however, falls without being followed by this change. In the month of June, at Port Famine, the barometer fell to 28.17, and afterwards gradually rose to 30.5, {467} which was followed by cold weather, in which the thermometer stood at 12°.

The following Table shews the mean temperature and pressure as registered at the Observatory at Port Famine in the Strait.

+----------+--------------+-----------+ | 1828. | Temperature. | Pressure. | +----------+--------------+-----------+ | February | 51.1 | 29.40 | | March | 49.4 | 29.64 | | April | 41.2 | 29.57 | | May | 35.5 | 29.30 | | June | 32.9 | 29.28 | | July | 33.0 | 29.57 | | August | 33.2 | 29.28 | +----------+--------------+-----------+

The difficulties that present themselves to Navigators in passing round Cape Horn, as well from adverse winds as the severe gales and heavy sea to which they are exposed, are so great, that the Strait of Magalhaens has naturally been looked to as a route by which they may be avoided. Hitherto no chart has existed in which much confidence could be placed; but by the present survey, the navigation through it, independent of wind and weather, has been rendered much easier; since a correct delineation of its shores, and plans of the anchorages, have been made; and in the preceding pages, sufficient descriptions of them have been given to assure the navigator of his place, and furnish him with advice as to his proceedings. The local difficulties therefore have been removed; but there remain much more serious ones, which I should not recommend a large, or even any but a very active and fast-sailing square-rigged vessel to encounter, unless detention be not an object of importance.

For a square-rigged vessel bound through the Strait, the following directions will be useful:-- {468}

In the eastern entrance the winds will frequently favour a ship's arrival off the First Narrow; where, if she selects a good anchorage on the bank which bounds the northern side of the channel, she may await an opportunity of passing through the First Narrow and of reaching Gregory Bay; where also a delay may safely be made for the purpose of passing the Second Narrow and arriving at the neighbourhood of Cape Negro; at which place the difficulties and dangers of the eastern entrance cease.

The dangers being carefully placed on the chart, and now sufficiently described, nothing need be repeated here; and indeed much must be left to the judgment and discretion of the navigator.

The tides answer best for vessels entering the Strait at the period of full and change of the moon, since there are two westerly tides in the day. In the winter season, if the morning tide be not sufficient to carry a vessel through the First Narrow, she may return to Possession Bay, select an anchorage, and be secured again before night; or, in the summer, if she has passed the Narrow, and has been enabled to anchor for the tide, there will be sufficient daylight for her to proceed with the following tide to Gregory Bay, or at least to a safe anchorage off the peaked hillocks on the north shore.

I have twice attempted to pass the First Narrow, and been obliged to return to the anchorage in Possession Bay; and twice I have passed through it against a strong breeze blowing directly through, by aid of the tide; which runs, in the narrower parts, at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour. When the tide and wind are opposed to each other, the sea is very deep and heavy, and breaks high over the decks; it is therefore advisable to close reef, or lower the topsails on the cap, and drift through; for the tide, if at the springs, will generally be sufficient to carry a ship to an anchorage, although, not always to one where it would be safe to pass the night. On this account, it would be prudent to return; for, although the holding ground is exceedingly good, yet, to part in the night, or drift towards, or through the Narrow, could scarcely happen without accident. {469}

In leaving the anchorage in Gregory Bay, attention must be paid to the tide, which continues to run to the eastward in the Second Narrow, three hours after it has commenced setting to the S.W. at the anchorage.

With a leading wind through the Second Narrow, a ship will easily reach an anchorage off Laredo Bay, but, if the tide fails upon emerging from it, she should seek for a berth in the bay to the north of Elizabeth Island, as near to the island as possible, but to the westward of its N.E. end, to be out of the influence of the tide. The depth of water, however, will be the best guide.

Directions for passing round the south side of Elizabeth Island are given elsewhere; and as this part offers some dangers, the chart and the description should be carefully referred to.

The only advice that seems wanting, to improve the directions for the coast from this to Port Famine, is, with a south-westerly wind, to keep close to the weather shore, in order to benefit by the flaws down the valleys; but this must be done with caution, in consequence of the squalls off the high land, the violence of which cannot be well imagined by a person unaccustomed to them.

Of the anchorages between Port Famine and Cape Froward, the only convenient one for a ship is St. Nicholas Bay, to which, if defeated in passing round the Cape, she had better return; for it is easy to reach as well as to leave, and extremely convenient for stopping at, to await an opportunity of proceeding.

From Cape Froward to the westward, unless favoured by a fair wind, it is necessary to persevere and take advantage of every opportunity of advancing step by step. There are several anchorages that a ship may take up, such as Snug Bay, off Woods Bay, near Cape Coventry, in Fortescue Bay, Elizabeth Bay, and York Roads. To the westward, in Crooked Reach, the anchorages are not so good, and excepting Borja Bay, none seem to offer much convenience. Borja Bay, however, is well calculated to supply the deficiency, although for a square-rigged vessel there must be some difficulty in reaching it. {470}

Long Reach is both long and narrow, and ill supplied with anchorages for a ship; such as they are, Swallow Harbour, Playa Parda, Marian Cove, and Half Port Bay, seem to be the best. In thick weather, although the channel is very narrow, yet one side is scarcely visible from the other, and the only advantage it has over other parts of the strait is the smoothness of the water. In Sea Reach there is a heavy rolling swell, with a short and deep sea, which renders it very difficult to beat to windward.

Tamar Harbour, Valentine Harbour, Tuesday Cove, and the Harbour of Mercy, are the best anchorages; and the latter is particularly convenient to occupy, while awaiting an opportunity of sailing out of the strait.

In the entrance, the sea runs very heavy and irregularly during and after a gale; so that a ship should not leave her anchorage in the Harbour of Mercy, without a fair or a leading wind to get her quickly through it.

For small vessels, particularly if they be fore-and-aft rigged, many, if not all of the local difficulties vanish; and inlets which a ship dare not or cannot approach, may be entered with safety, and anchorage easily obtained by them. A large ship will perhaps be better off in entering and leaving the Strait where there is open space and frequently a heavy sea; but for the navigation of the Strait, a small vessel has considerably the advantage. She has also the opportunity of passing through the Cockburn Channel should the wind be north-westerly, which will very much reduce the length of the passage into the Pacific.

One very great advantage to be derived from the passage through the Strait is, the opportunity of obtaining as much wood and water as can be required, without the least difficulty; and another benefit is, that by hauling the seine during the summer months, from January to May, at the mouth of the river or along the beaches in Port Famine, at the first quarter flood, a plentiful supply of fish may be obtained. Excellent fish are also caught at the anchorage with the hook and line, at all seasons, early in the morning or late in the {471} evening. Fish may also be obtained with the seine at any other place where there are rivers. Freshwater Bay and Port Gallant are equally productive. On the outer coast of Tierra del Fuego an excellent fish may be caught in the kelp.

The advantage which a ship will derive from passing through the Strait, from the Pacific to the Atlantic is very great; and it ought to be great to induce the seaman to entangle his ship with the land when fair winds and an open sea are before him. After passing through the Strait, the prevailing winds being westerly, and more frequently from the northward than from the southward of west, they are fair for his running up the coast; or if not, the ship is not liable to receive much injury from the sea, which is comparatively smooth; whereas, to a ship passing round the Horn, if the wind be north-west she must go to the eastward of the Falkland Islands, and be exposed to strong gales and a heavy beam sea, and hug the wind to make her northing. To a small vessel the advantage is incalculable; for, besides filling her hold with wood and water, she is enabled to escape the severe weather that so constantly reigns in the higher latitudes of the South Atlantic Ocean.

Coming from the northward, it will be advisable to keep an offing until the western entrance of the Strait is well under the lee, to avoid being thrown upon the coast to the northward of Cape Victory, which is rugged and inhospitable, and, forming as it were a breakwater to the deep rolling swell of the ocean, is for some miles off fringed by a cross hollow sea almost amounting to breakers.

The land of Cape Victory is high and rugged, and much broken; and if the weather be not very thick, will be seen long before the Evangelists, which are not visible above the horizon, from a ship's deck, for more than four or five leagues.[206] Pass to the southward of them, and steer for Cape Pillar, {472} which makes like a high island. In calm weather do not pass too near to the cape, for the current sometimes sets out, and round the cape to the southward; but with a strong wind, get under the lee of it as soon as you please, and steer along the shore. In the night it will be advisable to keep close to the land of the south shore; and if a patent log be used, which no ship should be without, your distance will be correctly known. The course along-shore, by compass, is E. ¾ S.; and if the weather be hazy, by keeping sight of the south shore, there will be no difficulty in proceeding with safety.

The Adventure entered the Strait on the 1st of April, 1830, at sunset; and after passing within half a mile of the islets off the Harbour of Mercy, steered E. ¾ S. magnetic, under close-reefed topsails, braced by, the weather being so squally and thick that the land was frequently concealed from us; but being occasionally seen, the water being quite smooth, and the course steadily steered, with the patent log to mark the distance run, we proceeded without the least anxiety, although the night was dark, and the squalls of wind and rain frequent and violent. When abreast of Cape Tamar, that projection was clearly distinguished, as was also the land of Cape Providence, which served to check the distance shewn by the patent log; but both giving the same results, proved that we had not been subjected to any current; whereas the account by the ship's log was very much in error, in consequence of the violence of the squalls and the long intervals of light winds, which rendered it impossible to keep a correct account of the distance. At daybreak we were between Cape Monday and the Gulf of Xaultegua; and at eight o'clock we were abreast of Playa Parda, in which, after a calm day, the ship was anchored.

In the summer season there is no occasion to anchor any where, unless the weather be very tempestuous, for the nights are short, and hardly dark enough to require it, unless as a precautionary measure, or for the purpose of procuring wood and water; the best place for which is Port Famine, where {473} the beaches are strewed with abundance of logs of well-seasoned wood, which is very superior to the green wood that must otherwise be used.

Notwithstanding that the Adventure experienced no current in the western part of the Strait, there is generally a set to the eastward, which is more or less felt according to circumstances. The direction and strength of the currents are caused by the duration of the gales.

The chart will be a sufficient guide for vessels bound through from the westward as far as Laredo Bay; after which a few directions will be necessary. The land here should be kept close on board, to avoid the Reef off the south-west end of Santa Magdalena. Being abreast of it, bear away, keeping the N.E. extremity of Elizabeth Island on the starboard bow, until you see Santa Marta in one with, or a little to the southward of, the south trend of the Second Narrow (Cape St. Vincent), which is a leading mark for the fair channel until you pass the spit of shoal soundings, which extends across to Santa Magdalena. There are also shoal soundings towards the south-west end of Elizabeth Island; at half a mile off we had five fathoms,--Cape St. Vincent being then the breadth of Santa Marta open to the northward of that island. Keeping the cape just in sight to the northward of Santa Marta, steer on and pass round the low N.E. extremity of Elizabeth Island, off which are several tide eddies. The tide here sets across the channel.

Now steer for the Second Narrow, keeping Cape Gregory, which will be just discernible as the low projecting extreme of the north side of the Second Narrow, on the starboard bow, until you are three miles past Santa Marta; the course may then be directed for the cape, opening it gradually on the larboard bow as you approach it, to avoid the shoal that extends off it.

If you anchor in Gregory Bay, which is advisable, in order to have the whole of the tide for running through the First Narrow, haul up and keep at a mile and a half from the shore. When {474} the north extremity of the sandy land of the Cape is in a line with the west extreme of the high table-land, you will be near the anchorage; then shorten sail, and when the green slope begins to open, you will have fourteen fathoms: you may then anchor or keep away to the N.E., and choose a convenient depth, taking care not to approach the shore, so as to bring Cape Gregory to the southward of S. by W. ¼ W. (by compass). The best berth is with the Cape bearing S.S.W.

Hence to the First Narrow, the course by compass is due N.E. by E.[207] The land at the entrance being low, will not at first be perceived; but, steering on, you will first see some hummocky land, making like islands. These are hills on the eastern, or Fuegian side of the Narrow. Soon afterwards, a flat, low sand-hill will be seen to the northward, and this is at the S.W. extremity of Point Barranca. On approaching the narrow, at four miles off, keep a cliffy head, four or five miles within the east side of the narrow, open of the trend of Point Barranca, by which you will avoid the shoal that extends off the latter point. You should not go into less depth than six fathoms. At most times of the tide there are long lines and patches of strong ripplings, through which you must pass. The shoal is easily distinguished by the kelp.

When the channel through the narrow bears by compass N. by E. ¾ E., steer through it; and that, or a N.N.E. course, will carry you through. On each side, the bank extends off for some distance; but by keeping in mid-channel, there is no danger until the cliffy coast be past, when reefs extend off either shore for some distance, particularly off Cape Orange. The N.N.E. course must be kept until the peak of Cape Orange bears south, and the northern Direction Hill W.S.W., or W. by S. ½ S. by compass. Then steer E.N.E. for Cape Possession, taking care not to approach too near to the bank {475} off Cape Orange, or to that on the north side of Possession Bay, for which the chart must be consulted.

For a small vessel, the passage through the strait, from west to east, is not only easy, but strongly to be recommended as the best and safest route. Indeed, I think the passage would be quite as expeditious, and perhaps much safer, to enter the Gulf of Trinidad, and pass down the Concepçion Strait, the Sarmiento or St. Estevan Channels, and Smyth Channel, and enter the Strait at Cape Tamar. In these channels northerly winds prevail, and there is no want of convenient and well-sheltered anchorages for the night, many of which have already been mentioned, and multitudes of others, perhaps much better ones, might be found.

* * * * *

APPENDIX.

TABLES of LATITUDE and LONGITUDE, VARIATION of the COMPASS, TIDE, and HEIGHT.

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS, discussed by MAJOR SABINE, R.A., F.R.S.

ZOOLOGY; including MAMMALIA--BIRDS--and SHELLS.

COPIES of ORDERS.

EXTRACTS from a PAPER published in the JOURNAL of the ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.

EXTRACT from a GAME-BOOK.

INDEX.

* * * * *

{479}

TABLES

LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE, VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, AND TIDE.

COASTS OF BRAZIL, RIVER PLATA, AND EASTERN PATAGONIA.

The Latitudes to which the character * is prefixed, have resulted from Astronomical Observation. The Longitudes which have been determined by Chronometers, are designated by C.; and those by Lunar Distances by *). Those without distinguishing marks are the result of Triangulation.

The Longitudes in the following Tables depend upon that of Villegagnon Island at Rio de Janeiro, which was found by fourteen Chronometers from Plymouth to be 43° 05' 03" West of Greenwich.

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+----------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+----------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Coast of Brazil. | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ================ | | | | | Santos | | | | | Arsenal |*23 55 51|C.46 16 33| 4 22| | Moela Lighthouse |*24 03 06|C.46 12 20| | | Alcatrasse Island | | | | | Centre |*24 08 10|C.45 39 15| | | Abrigo Island | | | | | Centre |*25 07 28|C.47 52 51| | | Figuera Island | | | | | Centre |*25 21 29|C.47 54 11| | | Paranagua | | | | | Fort on the Bar |*25 30 14|C.48 17 10| 5 44| | West Point of Cotinga |*25 29 50|C.48 26 32| 5 34| | Church of Sta Antonina |*25 25 42|C.48 39 52| | | St. Catherine | | | | | Sta Cruz d'Anhatomirim |*27 25 35|C.48 29 41| 6 30| | City, President's House |*27 35 30| | | | Cape St. Mary | | | | | Extremity | 34 40 20|C.54 05 58| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- River Plata. | | | | | ============ | | | | | Gorriti Island | | | | | Well at N.E. end |*34 57 00|C.54 53 38| 13 48| | | |*)54 53 40| | | Monte Video | | | | | Rat Island, Flagstaff |*34 53 23| 56 09 30| 11 23| | Cathedral, Cupola |*34 54 37| 56 07 35| 12 07| | Lighthouse on Mount |*34 53 21| 56 11 04| | | Buenos Ayres | | | | | Cathedral | 34 35 50|C.58 17 53| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- East Coast of Patagonia. | | | | | ======================== | | | | | Port Sta Elena | | | | | Observy marked on Plan |*44 30 45|C.65 17 25| 19 10| 4 0|17 feet Cape Two Bays | | | | | Hill at projecting Point | 44 58 00| | | | Cape Blanco | | | | | North Point | 47 15 00| | | | Port Desire | | | | | Ruins |*47 45 05|C.65 51 45| 19 42|12 10|18½ feet {480} Penguin Island | | | | | Mount at North end | 47 54 45| 65 41 30| | | Sea Bear Bay | | | | |North Sandy Beach at S. side |*47 56 49|C.65 44 00| 20 47|12 45|20 feet Shag Rock | | | | | Rock | 48 08 25| 65 52 56| | | Watchman Cape | | | | | Monte Video | 48 18 55| 66 18 00| | | Bellaco Rock | | | | | Rock | 48 30 50|C.66 09 25| | | Port St. Julian | | | | |Northward Shag Island, in Harbour |*49 16 00|C.67 38 02| 22 17|10 30|rises 38 | | | | |feet, | | | | |(observed | | | | |off the | | | | |river's | | | | |mouth.) Wood Mount | 49 14 00| 67 43 34| | | Cape Curioso | 49 11 10| 67 34 30| | | C. Franc. de Paulo | | | | | Extremity | 49 41 18| 67 34 30| | | Santa Cruz | | | | | Observatory opposite | | 68 25 00| 20 54|10 15|33 feet Sea-Lion Island |*50 06 43|C.68 22 42| | | Mount Entrance |*50 08 30| 68 19 10| | | Station up the River |*49 57 30| 68 52 55| | | ---- |*50 07 30| 69 08 00| | | Broken Cliff Peak | | | | | Brink | 50 14 30| 68 31 15| |12 15|Northw. Lion Mount | | | | | Summit | 50 20 00| 68 49 30| | | Observation Mt. | | | | | Summit |*50 32 35| 69 00 40| | | Coy Inlet | | | | | Height on South side |*50 58 27| 69 06 50| | 9 30| of Entrance | |C.69 05 17| | | Station up the Inlet | 51 06 30| 69 24 10| | | Cape Sanches | | | | | Extremity | 51 06 56| 69 03 30| | | Tiger Mount | | | | | Summit | 51 21 36| 69 01 50| | | | |C.69 03 28| | | C. Fairweather | | | | | South extreme. | 51 32 05| 68 55 15| | 9 0|N.W.28 feet Gallegos River | | | | | Observatory Mound |*51 33 21| 68 57 50| 21 47| 8 50|46 feet | |C.68 56 42| | | North Hill | | | | | ---- | 51 49 56| 69 24 30| | | Friars | | | | | Smallest & Northernm. | 51 49 12| 69 10 00| | | Largest & Southernm. | 51 50 08| 69 09 00| | | Convents | | | | | Northern | 51 52 09| 69 18 40| | | Southern | 51 53 01| 69 17 00| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+

* * * * *

{481}

TABLE II.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS,

INCLUDING

THE COCKBURN AND BARBARA CHANNELS, AND THE OTWAY AND SKYRING WATERS.

Column 1 titles: A - Coast, &c. B - East Entrance C - Possession Bay D - Eastern part (2d Narrow to Port Famine)

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- East Entrance | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ============= | | | | | Cape Virgins | | | | | S.E. extreme. |*52 18 35| 68 16 55| 22 30| |Northward. | |C.68 17 46| | | Dungeness | | | | | Extremity | 52 22 40| 68 21 50| | | Mount Dinero | | | | | Summit | 52 18 25| 68 30 00| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Possession Bay | | | | | ============== | | | | | Cape Possession | | | | | Centre of Cliff | 52 16 35| 68 53 35| | | Mount Aymond | | | | | Summit | 52 06 35| 69 30 30| | | Cape Orange | | | |H. W. about 3 0, Peak on the S. side of | 52 28 10| 69 26 05| |but the tide the entrance of the | | | |begins to set to first Narrow | | | |the N.E. at noon. | | | | | 36 feet. C. Espiritu Santo | | | | | Summit 5 miles inland | 52 42 30| 68 40 51| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Eastern part (2d Narrow to Port Famine) | | | ======================================= | | | Cape Gregory | | | | | Extremity | 52 38 18| 70 09 50| | | Bush on summit of land |*52 38 03|C.70 09 51| 23 34| | Elizabeth Island | | | | | North-east bluff. |*52 49 18|C.70 33 25| | | Oazy Harbour | | | | | Entrance | 52 42 20| 70 31 06| | | Pecket Harb. | | | | | Beach opposite the | 52 46 45| 70 40 31| 23 49| 12 0| anchorage outside. | | | | | Cape Negro | | | | | South-east extreme | 52 56 44|C.70 45 30| | | Sandy Point | | | | | Extremity | 53 09 00| 70 49 31| | | Point St. Mary | | | | | ---- |*53 21 40| 70 54 01| 23 26| | | |C.70 53 26| | | Rocky Point | | | | | ---- | 53 35 18| 70 51 58| | | Port Famine | | | | | Observatory |*53 38 12|C.70 54 01| 23 30|12 0|South. | |*) | | |5 or 6 ft. Point Santa Anna | 53 37 55| 70 51 19| | | Cape Monmouth | | | | | Extremity | 53 23 30| 70 24 01| | | Point Boqueron | | | | | ---- | 53 28 35| 70 12 01| | | Cape St Valentyn | | | | | Summit at extreme | 53 33 30| 70 30 01| | | Nose Peak | | | | | Summit | 53 32 30| 70 01 36| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{482}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Admiralty Sound | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| =============== | | | | | Port Cooke | | | | | Rivulet in the Bay | 54 17 10| 69 58 01| | | Latitude Point | | | | | Extremity | 54 16 45| 69 50 51| | | Bottom of Admiralty Sound | | | | | Summit of Mount Hope | 54 26 30| 68 59 11| | | Curious Peak | | | | | Summit | 54 19 35| 70 08 31| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- East Coast of Dawson Island| | | | | ===========================| | | | | Mount Seymour | | | | | Summit | 54 19 05| 69 46 36| | | Ainsworth Harb | | | | | Project point on W. side | 54 23 00| 69 34 01| | | Parry Harbour | | | | | Outer point on W. side | 54 25 20| 69 16 31| | | Card Point | | | | | Point | 54 21 00| 69 12 01| | | Willes Bay | | | | | Islet in Ph. Gidley Cove |*53 48 15| 70 31 46| | | Cannon Point | | | | | Extremity |*54 03 47| 70 25 31| | | Soapsuds Cove | | | | | Rivulet |*54 16 28| 70 13 46| | | Sharp Peak | | | | | Summit | 54 06 50| 70 23 01| | | Cape Expectation | | | | | South Extremity, or | 54 19 00| 70 15 21| | | trend at entrance of | | | | | Gabriel Channel | | | | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Gabriel Channel | | | | | =============== | | | | | Port Waterfall | | | | | Port | 54 20 20| 69 19 01| | | Nar. of Gabriel C. | | | | | Midway | 54 15 08| 69 32 31| | | Cone Point | | | | | Summit | 54 06 35| 70 48 01| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Dawson Island | | | | | ============= | | | | | Mount Graves | | | | | South summit | 53 45 00| 70 33 46| | | St. Peter and St. Paul Isle| | | | | Centre | 53 42 10| 70 42 01| | | Port San Antonio | | | | | Humming Bird Cove |*53 53 52| 70 50 26| | | | 53 54 25| | | | S.W. pt of North Island | 53 54 03| 70 51 51| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Coast from Pt. Famine to C. Froward | | | | =================================== | | | | Mount Tarn | | | | | Peak at North end | 53 45 06| 70 58 26| | | Cape San Isidro | | | | | Extremity | 53 47 00| 70 55 03| 23 30| 1 0|8 feet | | | | |Southw. C. Remarquable | | | | | Extremity | 53 49 25| 71 00 31| | | Nassau Island | | | | | South-east point | 53 50 23| 71 00 56| | | St. Nicholas Bay | | | | | Islet in the centre | 53 50 38| 71 03 13| | 2 6| ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{483}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Cape Froward to the Jerome | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| Channel, and North shore | | | | | of Clarence Island | | | | | ================== | | | | | Cape Froward | | | | | Summit of the Morro | 53 53 43| 71 14 31| | 1 0|N.E. Cape Holland | | | | | S. point of Wood Bay | 53 48 33| 71 35 41| | | Bougainville Sugar Loaf | | | | | Summit of Peak | 53 57 32| 71 24 13| | | Cascade Harb. | | | | | Small rock in Harbour |*53 57 48| 71 27 46| 24 18| | Cordes Bay | | | | | Outer-point West side | 53 42 55| 71 53 08| | | Bell Bay | | | | | N.W. pt. Bradley Cove |*53 53 15| 71 47 16| | | Cape Inglefield | | | | | Islet off it | 53 50 20| 71 51 41| | | Cape Gallant | | | | | Extremity |*53 42 11| 71 59 01| 24 35| | Port Gallant | | | | | Wigwam Point |*53 41 43|C.71 56 57| 24 04| 9 3|5 or 6 ft. Charles Island | | | | | Wallis Mark | 53 43 57| 72 02 00| | | Rupert Island | | | | | Summit | 53 42 00| 72 08 00| | | Monmouth Islds | | | | | Summit of largest island | 53 39 40| 72 08 39| | | Point Elizabeth | | | | | Passage Point Reef | 53 37 00| 72 08 41| | | Point York | | | | | Extremity |*53 32 35| | | | Bachelor River | | | | | Entrance | 53 33 00|C.72 17 11| 24 06| 1 46| | | 72 15 41| | | Jerome Channel | | | | | Bluff extremity, or | 53 31 00| 72 20 41| | | W. point of entrance | | | | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Crooked Reach | | | | | ============= | | | | | Cape Cross-tide | | | | | Extremity | 53 33 03| 72 22 16| |At Borja Bay. | | | | 1 50|6 feet El Morrion, or St. David He| | | | | Extremity | 53 33 20| 72 28 31| | | Cape Quod | | | | | Extremity | 53 32 10| 72 29 41| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Long Reach | | | | | ========== | | | | | Snowy Sound | | | | | Centre of Ulloa Island | 53 31 30| 72 36 13| | | Cape Notch | | | | | Extremity | 53 25 00| 72 45 11| | | Playa Parda Cove | | | | | Anchorage | 53 18 30| 72 56 00| | 1 8| Half-port Bay | | | | | Centre |*53 11 36|C.73 14 57| | | Cape Monday | | | | | Extremity | 53 09 12| 73 18 16| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Sea Reach | | | | | ========= | | | | | St. Anne Island | | | | | Centre | 53 06 30| 73 12 46| | | Cape Upright | | | | | Extremity, North trend | 53 04 03| 73 32 16| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{484}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Sea Reach | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ========= | | | | | Cape Providence | | | | | ---- | 52 59 00| 73 31 00| 23 22| | Cape Tamar | | | | | Observatory, Tamar Bay |*52 55 06|C.73 44 02| 23 24| 3 5|5 feet Extremity of Cape | 52 55 30| 73 44 26| | |Eastwd. Beaufort Bay | | | | | Stragglers, Southernmost | 52 48 03| 73 46 00| | | Cape Phillip | | | | | Sholl Bay |*52 44 05|C.73 48 20| | | Summit over the Cape | 52 44 20| 73 53 00| | | Cape Parker | | | | | Station near it |*52 41 49|C.74 07 10| | | Point Felix | | | | | Station on its East side |*52 56 31| | | | Extremity | 52 56 00| 74 09 00| | | Valentine Harb. | | | | | Mount (see Plan) | 52 55 00| 74 15 00| | 2 0| Cape Cuevas | | | | | Extremity |*52 53 19| 74 17 30| | | Cape Cortado | | | | | Extremity | 52 49 37| 74 22 56| 23 40| | Westminst. Hall | | | | | Eastern summit | 52 37 18| 74 20 26| | | Observation Mt. | | | | | ---- |*52 28 58|C.74 32 18| 25 09| 3 0| Harbour of Mercy | | | | | Observation Islet |*52 44 57|C.74 35 31| 23 48| 1 47|4 feet | | | | or | | | | | 0 58| Cape Pillar | | | | | Extremity | 52 42 53|C.74 37 41| | 1 0| | | 74 39 31| | | Cape Victory | | | | | Extremity |*52 16 10|C.74 50 55| | | Evangelists, or Isles of | | | | | Direction | | | | | Sugar Loaf to South | 52 24 18| 75 02 56| | |Variable Eastward | | | | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Magdalen Channel | | | | | ================ | | | | | Vernal | | | | | Pinnacle on summit | 54 06 28| 70 57 40| | | Anxious Point | | | | | Extremity | 54 06 50| 70 53 26| | | Mount Boqueron | | | | | Centre pinnacle | 54 10 40| 70 56 00| | | Labyrinth Islands | | | | | Summit of Jane Island | 54 19 10| 70 57 36| | | Cape Turn | | | | | Extremity | 54 24 08| 71 04 00| | | Warping Cove | | | | | ---- | 54 24 08|C.71 05 25| 24 57| | Mnt. Sarmiento | | | | | N.E. peak (6800 feet) | 54 27 00| 70 47 30| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{485}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Cockburn Channel | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ================ | | | | | King Island | | | | | Summit | 54 22 38| 71 13 15| | |Westw^d | | | | |6 or 8 ft. Prowse Islands | | | | | Station | 54 22 13| 71 20 57| | | Park Bay | | | | | Beach on isthmus | 54 19 00| 71 15 00| 24 56| 0 30|6 or 7 ft. Bayne Islands | | | | | Cove at the N. end of | 54 18 15| 71 35 50| | | of South-east island | | | | | Eliza Bay | | | | | Centre | 54 17 45| 71 37 00| | | Kirke Rocks | | | | | Body | 54 22 30| 71 42 30| | | Enderby Island | | | | | Centre | 54 13 00| 71 53 31| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Melville Sound | | | | | ============== | | | | | Mount Skyring | | | | | Summit (3000 feet) | 54 24 44| 72 07 40| | | Tom Harbour | | | | | Cove near it |*54 24 23|C.72 02 07| 25 19| | | | 72 02 31| | | North Cove | | | | | Entrance |*54 24 27|C.72 14 51| | | | | 72 14 30| | | Fury Harbour | | | | | West Point | 54 28 25| 72 15 00| | | West Furies | | | | | Body | 54 34 30| 72 17 00| | | East Furies | | | | | Body | 54 38 00| 72 08 00| | | Cape Schomberg | | | | | Summit over extremity | 54 38 48| 72 02 46| | | Cape Kempe | | | | | Peaks over | 54 23 30| 72 26 46| | | Copper Kettle | | | | | Summit | 54 23 50| 72 21 41| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Barbara Channel | | | | | =============== | | | | | Bynoe Island | | | | | Centre | 54 19 30| 72 09 00| | | Mortimer Island | | | | | Summit | 54 18 12| 72 16 00| | | Hewett Bay | | | | | South point | 54 15 30| 72 16 51| 24 0| 0 30|6 or 7 ft. | | | | |Southw. Brown Bay | | | | | Anchorage | 54 12 20| 72 16 00| | | Bell Mount | | | | | Summit | 54 09 54| 72 11 51| | | North Anchorage | | | | | ---- | 54 09 25|C.72 11 21| 24 12| | Bedford Bay | | | | | Entrance | 54 00 15| 72 18 31| 24 0| 0 30|7 or 8 ft. | | | | |Southw. Field Bay | | | | | Point Cairncross | 53 51 06| 72 16 31| | | Cayetano Peak | | | | | Summit | 53 53 04| 72 06 00| | | Shag Narrow | | | | | North end | 53 51 24| 72 10 31| | 0 0|[208] ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{486}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Barbara Channel | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| =============== | | | | | Dighton Bay | | | | | Latitude Beach |*53 48 40| 72 09 36| | | Point Elvira | | | | | Extremity | 53 49 12| 72 00 11| | | Cape Edgeworth | | | | | Extremity | 53 47 03| 72 05 16| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Jerome Channel | | | | | ============== | | | | | Bachelor Peak | | | | | Northernmost | 53 29 30| 72 15 46| | | Three Island Bay | | | | | Centre | 53 28 30| 72 20 20| | | Real Cove | | | | | Centre | 53 24 30| 72 23 55| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Indian Sound | | | | | ============ | | | | | Cutter Cove | | | | | Centre | 53 21 45| 72 23 20| | 4 0| False Corona | | | | | Smallest islet |*53 21 49|C.72 28 55| | | | | 72 26 00| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Otway Water | | | | | =========== | | | | | Bennett Island | | | | | ---- |*53 13 14| 72 16 46| | | Fanny Bay | | | | | Gidley islet at S. | 53 11 00| 72 08 30| | 5 0| entrance | | | | | Point Martin | | | | | ---- |*53 07 00|C.72 00 51| 23 58| 5 0| | | 71 58 00| | | Inglefield Island | | | | | North Point |*53 04 20|C.71 52 27| 23 56| 4 0| | | 71 49 30| | | Shell-note Point | | | | | Extremity |*52 51 34| 71 29 50| | | Point Hall | | | | | Extremity | 52 49 45| 71 22 10| | 4 0|N.W. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Fitz-Roy Passage | | | | | ================ | | | | | Donkin Cove | | | | | Spot marked on Plan |*52 45 30|C.71 21 36| 23 40| | | | 71 19 55| | | Wigwam Cove | | | | | Do. |*52 39 30|C.71 25 20| 23 34|Sets to East | | 71 24 10| |until 1 30 ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Skyring Water | | | | | ============= | | | | | Euston opening | | | | | Centre | 52 52 40| 72 18 00| | | Dynevor Castle | | | | | Summit | 52 34 30| 72 28 40| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

* * * * *

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TABLE III.

THE WESTERN COAST, AND INTERIOR SOUNDS,

FROM

THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS TO THE NORTH EXTREMITY OF THE GULF OF PEÑAS.

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Smyth Channel | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ============= | | | | | Fairway Isles | | | | | ---- |*52 43 25| 73 44 25| | | Deep Harbour | | | | | South point of entrance |*52 41 10| 73 44 40| 23 04| | Good Bay | | | | | North point |*52 34 16| 73 42 45| 23 20| 0 30|6 or 7ft. Oake Bay | | | | | Larch Island |*52 25 38| 73 43 25| | | Otter Bay | | | | | Anchorage | 52 23 50| 73 40 15| | | Summer Isles | | | | | Summit of larger island | 52 20 25| 73 39 20| | | Fortune Bay | | | | | Rivulet | 52 15 48| 73 41 25| 23 40| 0 50|7 or 8 ft. Point Palmer | | | | | Extremity | 52 13 38| 73 38 40| | | Isthmus Bay | | | | | Centre | 52 10 30| 73 36 40| | | Welcome Bay | | | | | Entrance of Cove | 52 09 15| 73 43 03| 23 40| 0 50|7 or 8 ft. | | | | |(Flood sets | | | | |to the | | | | |Northward.) Point St. Julian | | | | | Extremity | 52 00 50| 73 45 40| | | Island Bay | | | | | Island at south side | 51 59 05| 73 49 00| | | of port | | | | | Hamper Bay | | | | | Anchorage | 51 54 08| 73 53 15| | | Rocky Cove | | | | | N.W. point |*51 50 04| 74 05 20| | | Cape Cheer | | | | | Summit | 51 41 35| 74 15 00| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Lord Nelson Strait | | | | | ================== | | | | | Narrow Creek | | | | | ---- |*51 47 22| 74 09 30| 24 09| | Mount Trafalgar | | | | | Summit | 51 48 10| 74 21 00| | | Point West | | | | | Extremity | 51 31 45| 74 04 57| | | Cape Kendall | | | | | Extremity | 51 27 15| 74 06 20| | | Relief Harbour | | | | | Rock on West side |*51 26 27| 74 07 00| 24 40| | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- St. Estevan Channel | | | | | =================== | | | | | Escape Bay | | | | | Anchorage | 51 22 00| 74 12 00| | |Northw. Mount Trigo | | | | | Summit | 51 15 04| 74 12 00| | | Cape Donaldson | | | | | Extremity | 51 06 10| 74 16 40| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

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---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- St. Estevan Channel | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| =================== | | | | | Rejoice Harbour | | | | | North point of entrance | 51 02 12| 74 16 00| | | Anchor Bay | | | | | North point of entrance | 50 55 00| 74 16 40| | | Latitude Cove | | | | | ---- |*50 50 54| 74 16 00| | | Guia Narrow | | | | | North extremity in | 50 43 00| 74 23 10| | 2 8|Southw. mid channel | | | | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Sarmiento Channel | | | | | ================= | | | | | Bonduca Island | | | | | Centre | 50 55 00| 74 09 40| | | Puerto Bueno | | | | | N. pt. of Schooner Cove |*50 58 35| 74 07 10| 21 00| 1 40|Flood sets | | | | |to the | | | | |South. Blanche Passage | | | | | Entrance. | 51 13 40| 73 59 00| | | Port San Mateo | | | | | ---- | 51 23 50| 74 00 35| | | Cape St. Vincent | | | | | Northern trend | 51 30 00| 73 58 35| | | Point Balthazar | | | | | Extremity | 51 38 05| 73 56 55| | | Cape San Bartholomew | | | | | ---- | 51 46 05| 73 51 15| | | Staines Peninsul. | | | | | Isthmus | 51 40 35| 73 37 00| | | Cape Flamstead | | | | | Rock off the Extremity | 51 46 35| 73 48 00| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Union Sound | | | | | =========== | | | | | Shingle Road | | | | | Anchorage | 51 51 30| 73 42 30| | | Point Maskelyne | | | | | Extremity | 51 55 00| 73 42 30| | | Brinkley Island | | | | | Summit | 51 58 45| 73 39 10| | | Peñas de Altura | | | | | ---- | 52 06 05| 73 36 55| | | Crater Cove | | | | | ---- | 52 04 10| 73 27 20| | | Stony Bay | | | | | West point |*52 06 03| 73 23 58| | | Cape Año Nuevo | | | | | North Extremity | 52 07 30| 73 27 40| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Interior Sounds | | | | | =============== | | | | | Mount Burney | | | | | Centre peak | 52 19 42| 73 22 00| | | Ancon Sin Salida | | | | | Summit of large island | | | | | opposite to Cape | | | | | Earnest | 52 12 20| 73 15 15| | | Cape Earnest | | | | | Extremity | 52 10 52| 73 14 30| | | Leeward Bay | | | | | Islets within anchorage | 52 11 00| 73 10 30| | | Whale Boat Bay | | | | | Beach |*52 05 32| 73 08 35| | | Cape Retford | | | | | Extremity | 52 04 38| 73 02 20| | | Point Return | | | | | " " |*52 03 39| 72 58 50| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{489}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Interior Sounds | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| =============== | | | | | Virginia Island | | | | | S. E. Point |*52 06 16| 72 58 00| | | Easter Bay | | | | | Beach |*51 53 10|C.72 53 16| | | Canal of the Mountains | | | | | Bottom | 51 34 00| 73 23 00| | | Last Hope Inlet | | | | | ---- | 51 25 38| 73 09 48| | | Focus Island | | | | | Summit (centre) | 51 53 23| 72 44 15| | | Obstruction Sound. | | | | | Bottom | 52 29 00| 72 53 35| | | S. E. bight, or the | | | | | nearest part to | | | | | Skyring Water | 52 22 35| 72 29 40| | | Point San Juan | | | | | S. W. Extremity | 50 39 52| 74 29 38| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Concepçion Strait | | | | | ================= | | | | | Guard Bay | | | | | Anchorage | 50 34 10|C.74 32 57| | | Innocent Island | | | | | Summit at North End | 50 31 55| 74 43 00| | | Tapering Point | | | | | Extremity | 50 28 55| 74 38 30| | | Point Hocio de Cayman | | | | | ---- | 50 24 30| 74 48 35| | | Walker Bay | | | | | Beach | 50 21 15| 74 48 00| | | Molyneux Sound | | | | | Rock to N. of Point | | | | | Michael |*50 16 48| 74 44 45| | | Portland Bay | | | | | Centre of island | | | | | fronting the | | | | | anchorage | 50 14 42| 74 36 48| | | Expectation Bay | | | | | Anchorage | 50 25 08| 74 13 15| | | Tom Bay | | | | | Beach near anchorage | 50 11 00| 74 41 30| | | Open Bay | | | | | Summit of Island off | 50 07 00| 74 31 00| | | Pt. Brazo Ancho | | | | | Extremity | 50 08 35| 74 37 25| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Gulf of Trinidad | | | | | ================ | | | | | Red Bill Island | | | | | Summit |*50 05 30| 74 44 15| | | Windward Bay | | | | | Beach | 50 03 12| 74 38 00| | | Double Peak Mt. | | | | | Eastern Peak | 49 57 35| 74 36 00| | | Cathedral Mount | | | | | Summit | 49 46 03| 74 40 50| | | Neesham Bay | | | | | Beach |*49 53 54|C.74 55 57| | | Easter Peak | | | | | Summit | 50 00 15| 75 09 35| | | Port Henry | | | | | Observatory |*50 00 18|C.75 15 11| 20 50|Noon.|5 feet ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{490}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Gulf of Trinidad | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ================ | | | | | Seal Rocks | | | | | Body | 49 54 48| 75 14 02| | | Cape Tres Puntas | | | | | Pillar Rock at the | | | | | extremity | 50 02 00| 75 19 30| | | Cape Primero | | | | | Extremity | 49 50 04| 75 32 07| 20 58| | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Wide Channel | | | | | ============ | | | | | Mount Corso | | | | | Summit | 49 45 02| 75 28 55| | | Small-craft Bight | | | | | ---- | 50 01 20| 74 27 00| | | Sandy Bay | | | | | East Point. | 50 45 25| 74 13 10| | | Saumarez Island | | | | | Bold Head | 49 32 18| 74 03 20| | | Fury Cove | | | | | Head |*49 31 46| 74 00 00| | 1 15|W.S.W. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Sir Geo. Eyre Sd. | | | | | ================= | | | | | Falcon Inlet | | | | | Cape Wellesley, extrem. | 49 28 15| 73 51 30| | | Bottom of the Sd. | | | | | ---- | 48 56 50| 73 40 00| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Mesier Channel | | | | | ============== | | | | | Rocky Bight | | | | | West point. | 49 25 35| 74 10 40| | | Level Bay | | | | | Outer point, N. side | 49 07 35| 74 11 30| | | English Narrow | | | | | South end | 49 06 00| 74 13 20| 12 45| | North end | 48 55 30| 74 13 38| | | Halt Bay. | | | | | ---- |*48 53 50| 74 13 10| |12 30|S.S.E. Iceberg Sound | | | | | Station Rock, on the N. | | | | | side of entrance |*48 39 23| 74 11 20| | | Bottom | 48 47 00| 74 10 10| | | White Kelp Cove | | | | | Rock off the entrance |*48 30 46| 74 15 35| | | Middle Island | | | | | North point | 48 27 35| 74 20 50| |12 0|Northw. Waterfall Bay | | | | | Bottom | 48 17 00| 74 22 00| | |N. by W. Island Harbour | | | | | West point | 48 06 25| 74 28 38| | | Millar Island | | | | | South extreme | 48 03 20| 74 35 30| | | Millar's Monument, | | | | | North extreme | 47 55 12| 74 41 50| | | Campana Island | | | | | Summit at South end | 47 45 10| 74 37 30| | | Cape Roman | | | | | Extremity | 47 44 37| 74 52 45| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Guaianeco Islands | | | | | ================= | | | | | Ayautau Island | | | | | Summit on the largest | 47 34 22| 74 40 30| | | Wager Island | | | | | Easternmost point | 47 41 05| 74 55 25| | | Supposed position of | | | | | the Wager's wreck | 47 39 40| 75 06 30| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{491}

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+---------------- Name of | | | | TIDE ---------------------------+ | | |-----+---------- | | | | | Direction | | | |H. W.| of Flood, Place. |Latitude |Longitude |Variat| at | and Rise Particular Spot. | South. | West. | East.|F.&W.| of Tide. ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+---------- Guaianeco Islands | ° ' "| ° ' "| ° '|H. M.| ================= | | | | | Speedwell Bay | | | | | North Beach |*47 40 17|C.75 08 34| | | | | 75 10 20| | | Rundle Pass | | | | | South end | 47 45 30| 75 05 45| | | Islet, the most Northern of| | | | | the group | | | | | Summit | 47 38 30| 75 14 25| | | Good Harbour | | | | | Isthmus at the bottom | 47 45 00| 75 20 50| | | Byron Island | | | | | Most western point | 47 44 50| 75 24 32| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Gulf of Peñas | | | | | ============= | | | | | Channel's Mouth | | | | | Body of rocks off the | | | | | South entrance | 47 30 20| 74 33 20| | | Hazard Isles, centre | | | | | and westernmost | 47 29 30| 74 24 50| | | E side of northern islet |*47 28 56|C.74 24 13| | | Bottom of east arm | 47 35 12| 73 53 32| | | Bottom of south arm | 47 46 10| 74 09 20| | | Xavier Island | | | | | Ignacio Bay (beach) |*47 10 28|C.74 25 49| 19 50| | Xavier Bay (Lyndsey Pt) | 47 05 00| 74 16 40| | | Jesuit Sound | | | | | North point of entrance, | | | | | or head of False | | | | | Harbour | 47 07 15| 74 12 30| | | Kelly Harbour | | | | | North point of entrance |*46 58 54|C.74 05 41| | | Cirujano Islet | | | | | North-east point | 46 51 15| 74 21 50| | | San Tadeo River | | | | | Sand Hills on East side | | | |11 45|Head of St. of entrance | 46 47 40| 74 15 50| | |Quintin | | | | |Gulf. 6 ft. Purcell Island | | | | | Summit | 46 55 30| 74 39 55| | | Isthmus | | | | | Centre | 46 50 20| 74 41 35| | | Port Otway | | | | | Observatory |*46 49 31|C.75 19 00| 20 32|11 37|6 feet. Sugar Loaf | | | | | Summit | 46 42 40| 75 15 00| | | Dome of St. Paul | | | | | ---- | 46 36 56| 75 13 20| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Peninsula of Tres Montes | | | | | ======================== | | | | | Pt. Mitford Rees | | | | | Extremity | 46 43 08| 75 40 55| | | Cape Raper | | | | | ---- | 46 48 20| 75 39 35| | | Cape Tres Montes | | | | | ---- | 46 58 57| 75 27 30| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+ Coast of Wellington and | | | | | Campana Islands | | | | | =============== | | | | | Bynoe Island | | | | | Entrance of Fallos Ch. | 47 57 55| 75 23 45| | | Break Sea Island | | | | | Northernmost point | 48 01 00| 75 29 15| | | ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+-----------

{492}

* * * * *

{493}

TABLE IV.

OUTER, OR SEA COAST, OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

In order to adapt the longitudes of the places mentioned in this Table to the meridians of Port Famine and St. Martin Cove, at Cape Horn, the following corrections[209] have been made to Captain Fitz-Roy's chronometrical results, _viz_:--

Townshend Harbour } { 0'11"} Stewart Harbour } { 0 23 } to the Eastward of Captain Doris Cove } have been placed { 0 33 } Fitz-Roy's chronometrical March Harbour } { 1 6 } deductions. Good Success Bay } { 2 0 }

By Captain Fitz-Roy's observations St. Martin Cove would be in long. 67° 31' 18", which is 2' 15" to the Westward of the mean of upwards of thirty chronometrical results from Monte Video. The difference has, therefore, been equally divided between North Cove and St. Martin Cove; the longitude of the latter being taken at 67° 29' 03", and of Port Famine at 70° 54'.

{494}

* * * * *

TABLE V.

COAST OF CHILE.

* * * * *

{495}

TABLE OF OBSERVED OR ESTIMATED HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS AND PARTICULAR PARTS OF THE SEA COAST.

Ang. denotes the height to have been ascertained by Angular Measurement; Bar. by Barometer; and Est. by Estimation.

NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.

CAPE VERD ISLANDS.

FEET. Peak at the N.W. end of San Antonio 7086 Ang. Pico Antonio, on St. Jago 4725 Ang. Pico of Fuego 8815 Ang.

SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.

COAST OF BRAZIL.

Corcovado, at Rio de Janeiro 2330 Bar. 5 Obs. Sugar Loaf, do 1275 Ang. Cubatoa, at Santos (Telegraph House) 2502 Bar. 5 Obs. City of San Paulo (Base of the Cathedral) 2444 Bar. 16 Obs.

EAST COAST OF PATAGONIA.

Cliffy Coast, near Port St. Julian 300 to 330 Est. Mount Entrance (Santa Cruz) 356 Ang. Cape Fairweather and the Cliffs to the Northward 300 Est. Cape Virgins and the Cliffs to the Northward 300 Est.

{496}

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

FEET. Cape Possession 300 Est. Table Mountain behind Cape Gregory 1500 to 2000 Est. Point Santa Anna (Port Famine) 104 Ang. Mount St. Philip do. 1308 Ang. Mount Graves, North Summit (Dawson Island) 1315 Ang. Do. South do. do. 1498 Ang. Lomas Range, the highest part over Port San Antonio 2963 Ang. Mount Tarn (Peak at the N.E. end) { 2602 Bar. 4 Obs. { 2852 Ang. Mount Buckland, Gabriel Channel 4000 Est. Mount Boqueron (entrance of Magdalen Channel) 3000 Est. Mount Sarmiento (bottom of do. ) 6800 Ang. Pyramid Hill ( do. do. ) 2500 Ang. Cape Froward (Land behind the Morro) 2500 Est. Cape Holland 1800 Est. Mount Pond 2500 Est. Mount Cross, Port Gallant { 2290 Bar. { 2264 Ang. 3 Obs. Average height of the land near Sea Reach 1000 to 2500 Est.

OUTER COAST OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Kater Peak, on Hermite Island 1742 Bar. 4 Obs. Bell Mount, near Strait le Maire 4000 Est.[210] Noir Island 600 Est.

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

WESTERN COAST OF PATAGONIA.

Mount Burney 4800 Ang. Cape Three Points 2000 Est. Mountain within Kelly Sound 1540 Ang. Sugar Loaf (Marine Islands, in Holloway Sound) 1836 Ang. Dome of St. Paul ( do. do. ) 2284 Ang. Highest peak of Juan Fernandez (The Yungue, or Anvil) 3005 Ang.

* * * * *

{497}

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS,

DISCUSSED BY

MAJOR SABINE, R.A., F.R.S.

1. _Observations of the Dip._

Captain Fitz-Roy was furnished with two Dip Circles, one by Gambey, and the other by Dollond; the latter supplied by Government, and Gambey's purchased by himself.

Gambey's, being found to give results more accordant with each other than Dollond's, was used at all the stations, except Rio de Janeiro. The Circle was nine and a-half inches in diameter, and was furnished with two needles. This instrument was, in all respects, a very superior one. It was placed for observation on a stand, which raised it from two to three feet above the ground. The needle was observed in eight positions, and as the readings accorded sufficiently well with each other, their arithmetical mean has been taken as the dip resulting from the observation. The eight positions were as follows: 1, with the graduated face of the circle towards the east; 2, with the same towards the west. The needle was then taken out and replaced with the ends of the axle changed, so that each end rested on a different plane to what it did before; it was then observed, 3, with the face of the circle towards the west, and 4, with the same to the east. The poles were then inverted, so that the end of the needle which was before a north pole became a south pole, and the four positions were again repeated. The arc indicated by both ends of the needle was read in every position: an observation of the dip consisted, consequently, of sixteen readings. In the subjoined tabular record these are comprised in four entries, a mean being taken of the arc read at the two extremities of the needle, and of the positions 1 and 3, 2 and 4: 1 and 3 form the column, a; 2 and 4 the column, a'; and the same positions, with the poles reversed, the columns a" and a"'.

{498}

MAGNETIC DIP.

-----------+--------+-----+-----+----+---+------------------------------- | | | | | N | Needle | | | | | e |---------------+--------------- | | | | | e | Marked end a | Marked end a | |Above| |Obs-| d | N. Pole | S. Pole | | the | |er- | l |-------+-------+-------+------- Station | Date | Sea |Therm|ver | e | a | a' | a" | a"' -----------+--------+-----+-----+----+---+-------+-------+-------+------- | 1831 |Feet.| ° | | | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' Plymouth |Nov. 20{| 50 | 58 | F. | 1 |69 49 |69 06,5|69 53 |69 08 | {| 50 | 58 | F. | 2 |69 23,5|69 29,5|69 26 |69 25,5 | 1832 | | | | | | | | Port Praya |Jan. 28{| 20 | 71 | F. | 1 |46 46,5|46 19 |46 36 |45 40 | {| 20 | 71 | F. | 2 |46 16,5|46 23,5|46 23 |46 17 | | | | | | | | | | {| 16 | 83 | S. | | 6 18 | 6 02 | 3 27,5| 3 38 Bahia |Mar. 6 {| 16 | 83 | S. | | 7 19,5| 7 02 | 1 39 | 1 54,5 | {| 16 | 84 | S. | | 7 59 | 9 29,5| 1 08,5| 1 54 | {| 16 | 84 | S. | | 6 29 | 6 02,5| 4 11,5| 4 11 | | | | | | | | | Rio de | {| 10 | 78 | S. | |13 42 |12 05,5|14 27 |14 05,5 Janeiro |Apr. 30{| 10 | 78 | S. | |13 02 |11 54,5|15 15,5|15 16,5 | {| 10 | 79 | S. | |14 24 |14 06 |12 04,5|13 03 | | | | | | | | | {|Sept.5 {| 18 | 49 | F. | 1 |40 45 |42 50 |40 50 |43 42,5 Blanco Bay{| {| 18 | 49 | F. | 2 |42 34 |41 47,5|41 15 |41 57 {|Sept.19{| 18 | 67 | F. | 1 |41 28 |42 02,5|41 32,5|42 22 {| {| 18 | 67 | F. | 2 |41 48 |41 52 |41 46,5|41 51 | 1833 | | | | | | | | {|Mar. 12{| 8 | 48 | F. | 1 |53 23 |53 27 |56 22 |51 48 Falkland {| {| 8 | 49 | F. | 2 |53 25 |53 32 |50 47 |54 45 Islands {|Mar.13 {| 8 | 50 | F. | 1 |53 08 |53 53 |53 19 |53 59 {| {| 8 | 51 | F. | 2 |53 40 |53 38 |53 27 |53 34 | | | | | | | | | Monte Video|Nov. 25{| 10 | 84 | F. | 1 |35 10 |34 40 |35 28,5|34 40 | {| 10 | 84 | F. | 2 |34 55 |34 47,5|34 20 |34 50 | | | | | | | | | {499} Port Desire|Dec. 30{| 48 | 58 | F. | 1 |53 05 |52 29 |53 20 |52 22,5 | {| 48 | 58 | F. | 2 |52 45 |52 27,5|52 49 |52 30 | 1834 | | | | | | | | Falkland |Mar. 19{| 60 | 45 | F. | 1 |53 16,5|53 21,5|52 58 |54 05 Islands | {| 60 | 45 | F. | 2 |53 40 |52 58 |53 23 |52 58 | {| 60 | 45 | F. | 1 |53 23 |52 45 |53 59 |53 08,5 | {| 60 | 45 | F. | 2 |53 19 |53 19 |53 22 |53 19 | | | | | | | | | River Santa|May 10 {| 20 | 48 | F. | 1 |55 37 |54 37 |55 45 |54 48 Cruz | {| 20 | 48 | F. | 2 |55 30 |55 21 |55 21 |55 07 | | | | | | | | | Port San |Dec. 24{| 8 | 62 | F. | 1 |54 32 |54 12 |54 40 |54 00 Andres | {| 8 | 62 | F. | 2 |54 19 |54 10 |54 07 |53 49 | 1835 | | | | | | | | Port Low |Jan. 15{| 6 | 57 | F. | 1 |51 27 |50 44 |51 42 |51 00 | {| 6 | 57 | F. | 2 |51 48 |51 40 |51 10 |51 10 | | | | | | | | | Chilóe |Jan. 26{| 10 | 66 | F. | 1 |49 12 |48 29 |49 30 |48 41 | {| 10 | 66 | F. | 2 |49 09 |49 02 |48 57 |48 51 | | | | | | | | | Valdivia |Feb. 18{| 8 | 69 | F. | 1 |46 58 |46 18 |47 22 |46 34 | {| 8 | 69 | F. | 2 |46 56 |46 42 |46 44 |46 38 | | | | | | | | | Concepçion |Apr. 13{| 90 | 59 | F. | 1 |43 30 |42 47 |43 47 |42 58 | {| 90 | 59 | F. | 2 |43 25 |43 15 |43 11 |43 10 | | | | | | | | | Valparaiso |June 27{| 15 | 57 | Sg.| 1 |38 24 |37 26 |38 33,5|37 46 | {| 15 | 57 | Sg.| 2 |38 17,5|38 01,5|38 00 |37 56 | | | | | | | | | Callao |Aug. 26{| 12 | 64 | Sg.| 1 | 6 46,5| 6 50 | 7 34,5| 7 24 | {| 12 | 64 | Sg.| 2 | 7 05 | 6 35 | 6 54,5| 7 04,5 | | | | | | | | | Galapagos |Sept.22{| 6 | 72 | Sg.| 1 | 9 08 | 8 53,5| 8 35 | 8 30 Islands | {| 6 | 73 | Sg.| 2 | 8 29,5| 8 40,5| 8 42,5| 8 31 | | | | | | | | | Galapagos |Oct. 16{| 8 | 70 | F. | 1 | 9 47,5| 9 41 | 9 17 | 9 13,5 Islands | {| 8 | 70 | F. | 2 | 9 24,5| 9 32,5| 9 26 | 9 27,5 | | | | | | | | | Otaheite, {|Nov. 16{| 4 | 79 | Sg.| 1 |30 02 |30 06 |30 39,5|29 51 or Tahiti {| {| 4 | 79 | Sg.| 2 |30 21 |29 58 |30 10,5|30 13 {|Nov. 23{| 4 | 80 | Sg.| 1 |30 17,5|30 11 |30 58 |30 05,5 {| {| 4 | 80 | Sg.| 2 |30 18 |30 07,5|30 08 |30 09 -----------+--------+-----+-----+----+---+-------+-------+-------+-------

{498} -----------+-------------------+------------------ | | | | | | | | | | Place of Station | Dip deduced. | Observation -----------+-------------------+------------------ | ° ' ° ' | Plymouth |69 29,1 } 69 27,6N.|Athenæum |69 26,1 } | | | Port Praya |46 20,4 } 46 20,2N.|Landing Place |46 20,0 } | | | | 4 51,5 } | Bahia | 4 28,7 } 4 55,8N.|San Antonio | 5 07,7 } |(Dollond's Instr.) | 5 13,5 } | | | Rio de |13 34,2 } 13 37,4S.|Villegagnon Janeiro |13 52,7 ) |Island. |13 24,5) |(Dollond's Instr.) | | {|42 01,9 } | Blanco Bay{|41 53,4 } 41 54 S.|The Wells at {|41 51,2 } | Point Johnson. {|41 49,4 } | | | {|53 45 } | Falkland {|53 07,2 } 53 30,4S.|Berkeley Sound, Islands {|53 34,7 } |Magellan or {|53 34,8 } |Johnson Cove. | | Monte Video|34 59,4 } 34 51,2S.|Rat Island. | | | | {499} Port Desire|52 49,1 } 52 43,5S.|Spanish Ruins. |52 37,9 } | | | Falkland |53 25,2 } 53 19,6S.| Islands |53 14,7 } |Berkeley Sound, |53 18,9 } |Port Louis. |53 19,7 } | | | River Santa|55 11,7 } 55 15,7S.|Keel Point. Cruz |55 19,7 } | | | Port San |54 21,0 } 54 13,6S.|Christmas Andres |54 06,2 } |Cove. | | Port Low |51 13,2 } 51 20,1S.|Observation |51 27,0 } |Islet. | | Chilóe |48 58 } 48 58,9S.|San Carlos, |48 59,8 } |Pt. Arena. | | Valdivia |46 48 } 46 46,5S.|Corral. |46 45 } | | | Concepçion |43 15,5 } 43 15,4S.|Fort |43 15,2 } |Galvez. | | Valparaiso |38 02,4 } 38 03,1S.|Near Fort |38 03,8 } |St. Antonio. | | Callao | 7 08,7 } 7 02,8S.|Arsenal. | 6 56,9 } | | | Galapagos | 8 46,6 } 8 41,2N.|Chatham Island, Islands | 8 35,9 } |Stephen Bay. | | Galapagos | 9 29,7 } 9 28,6N.|Charles Islands | 9 27,6 } |Island. | | Otaheite, {|30 09,6 } 30 13,5S.|Point or Tahiti {|30 10,6 } |Venus. {|30 23 } | {|30 10,6 } | -----------+-------------------+------------------

{500}

-----------+--------+-----+-----+----+---+------------------------------- | | | | | N | Needle | | | | | e |---------------+--------------- | | | | | e | Marked end a | Marked end a | |Above| |Obs-| d | N. Pole | S. Pole | | the | |er- | l |-------+-------+-------+------- Station | Date | Sea |Therm|ver | e | a | a' | a" | a"' -----------+--------+-----+-----+----+---+-------+-------+-------+------- | 1835 |Feet.| ° | | | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' New Zealand|Dec. 23{| 10 | 63 | Sg.| 1 |59 44 |59 04,5|60 09,5|59 14 | {| 10 | 64 | Sg.| 2 |59 43,5|59 28,5|59 32,5|59 19,5 | 1836 | | | | | | | | Sydney |Jan. 15{| 24 | 72 | Sg.| 1 |63 00,5|62 26,5|63 19 |62 35 | {| 24 | 72 | Sg.| 2 |62 55,5|62 48,5|62 53,5|62 35,5 | | | | | | | | | Hobart Town|Feb. 6 {| 35 | 51 | Sg.| 1 |70 51,5|70 13 |71 02,5|70 15,5 | {| 35 | 51 | Sg.| 2 |70 43,5|70 27 |70 37 |70 25,5 | | | | | | | | | King George|Mar. 8 {| 4 | 67 | Sg.| 1 |64 57,5|64 17,5|65 09 |64 25 Sound | {| 4 | 67 | Sg.| 2 |64 49,5|64 35 |64 44,5|64 33 | | | | | | | | | Keeling |Apr. 4 {| 3 | 79 | Sg.| 1 |38 48,5|37 45,5|39 08 |38 24 Islands | {| 3 | 79 | Sg.| 2 |38 43,5|38 32 |38 35,5|38 28 | | | | | | | | | Mauritius |May 3 {| 5 | 81 | Sg.| 1 |54 21,5|53 23 |54 41 |53 46,5 | {| 5 | 81 | Sg.| 2 |54 08,5|54 00,5|53 58 |53 47,5 | | | | | | | | | |June 2{ | 4 | 64 | Sg.| 1 |52 53 |51 53 |53 14,5|52 22 Cape of | { | 4 | 64 | Sg.| 2 |52 40,5|52 32,5|52 34 |52 26 Good Hope |June 10{| 35 | 65 | Sg.| 1 |53 03 |52 37 |53 14 |52 27,5 | {| 35 | 65 | Sg.| 2 |52 39 |52 40 |52 38 |52 25 | | | | | | | | | St. Helena |July 11{| 17 | 70 | Sg.| 1 |18 01 |17 18,5|18 43,5|18 10,5 | {| 17 | 70 | Sg.| 2 |18 06,5|17 48,5|17 55 |18 05,5 | | | | | | | | | Ascension |July 21{| 15 | 72 | Sg.| 1 | 2 02,5| 2 01 | 1 22,5| 1 15,5 Island | {| 15 | 72 | Sg.| 2 | 1 25,5| 1 52 | 1 48,5| 1 26 | | | | | | | | | Bahia |Aug. 4 {| 6 | 74 | Sg.| 1 | 5 34,5| 5 29 | 6 28 | 6 10,5 | {| 6 | 74 | Sg.| 2 | 6 01 | 5 48,5| 5 35 | 6 01,6 | | | | | | | | | {501} Pernambuco |Aug. 13{| 5 | 76 | F. | 1 |13 37 |13 24 |13 05 |12 52 | {| 5 | 76 | F. | 2 |13 10 |13 15 |13 15 |13 05 | | | | | | | | | {|Sept. 1{| 18 | 80 | Sg.| 1 |46 19,5|45 22,5|45 52 |45 01 {| {| 18 | 80 | Sg.| 2 |45 42,5|45 40,5|45 47 |45 36,5 Port Praya{|Sept.2{ | 25 | 81 | Sg.| 1 |46 49,5|45 53,5|46 07,5|45 16,5 {| { | 25 | 81 | Sg.| 2 |46 04 |45 52,5|45 54,5|46 02,5 {|Sept. 3{| 50 | 80 | Sg.| 1 |45 15 |45 22 |45 48 |45 08,5 {| {| 50 | 80 | Sg.| 2 |45 42,5|45 33 |47 47,5|45 37 | | | | | | | | | Terceira |Sept.21{| 4 | 72 | Sg.| 1 |68 39 |67 45 |68 24 |67 45,5 | {| 4 | 72 | Sg.| 2 |67 58,5|67 59 |68 14 |68 02,5 | | | | | | | | | Falmouth |Oct. 4{| 100 | 58 | F. | 1 |69 29 |69 26 |69 16 |69 19 | {| 100 | 58 | F. | 2 |69 17 |69 06,5|69 27,5|69 15,5 | | | | | | | | | Plymouth |Oct. 12{| 50 | 54 | Sg.| 1 |69 54 |68 59,5|69 46,5|68 40,5 | {| 50 | 54 | Sg.| 2 |69 15,5|69 09 |69 33 |69 10 | | | | | | | | | Plymouth |Oct. 15{| 100 | 56 | Sg.| 1 |69 57 |68 54 |69 16,5|68 43 | {| 100 | 56 | Sg.| 2 |69 17 |69 02,5|69 29,5|69 11 -----------+--------+-----+-----+----+---+-------+-------+-------+-------

{500} -----------+-------------------+------------------ | | | | | | | | | | Place of Station | Dip deduced. | Observation -----------+-------------------+------------------ | ° ' ° ' | New Zealand|59 33 } 59 32 S.|Paihia Islet. |59 31 } | | | Sydney |62 50,2 } 62 49,4S.|Fort Macquarie. |62 48,5 } | | | Hobart Town|70 35,6 } 70 34,9S.|Fort Mulgrave. |70 34,2 } | | | King George|64 42,2 } 64 41,3S.|Landing Place. Sound |64 40,5 } | | | Keeling |38 31,5 } 38 33,1S.|Direction Inlet. Islands |38 34,7 } | | | Mauritius |54 03,1 } 54 00,8S.|Cooper Island. |53 58,6 } | | | |52 35,6 } 52 34,4S.|Simon Town. Cape of |52 33,2 } | Good Hope |52 35,4 } 52 35,5S.|Observatory |52 35,5 } | (outside). | | St. Helena |18 03,4 } 18 01,2S.|James Town. |17 59,0 } | | | Ascension | 1 40,4 } 1 39,2N.|Barrack Square. Island | 1 38,0 } | | | Bahia | 5 55,5 } 5 53,5N.|San Antonio. | 5 51,5 } | | | {501} Pernambuco |13 14,5 } 13 12,9N.|Arsenal. |13 11,5 } | | | {|45 38,9 } | {|45 41,6 } |Landing Place. Port Praya{|46 01,7 } 45 46,5N.| {|45 58,6 } | {|45 38,4 } |Quail Island. {|45 40,0 } | | | Terceira |68 08,4 } 68 06 N.|Angra. |68 03,5 } | | | Falmouth |69 22,5 } 69 19,5 |Mr. Fox's. |69 16,6 } | | | Plymouth |69 20,1 } 69 18,5N.|Mount Wise. |69 16,9 } | | | Plymouth |69 20,1 } 69 17,6N.|Athenæum. |69 15 } | -----------+-------------------+------------------

Observers:--F. Capt. FITZ-ROY. S. Lieut. SULIVAN. Sg. Mr. STEBBING

* * * * *

{502}

2. _Observations of Intensity._

The method employed by Captain Fitz-Roy to determine the variations of the magnetic force was that of noting the time of vibration of a magnetic cylinder suspended horizontally.

The cylinder was one which had been given by M. Hansteen, in 1826, to Captain Phillip Parker King, R.N., and had been used by him during the survey of the coast of South America, which he conducted from 1826 to 1830. The apparatus in which it was vibrated, both in Captain King's and Captain Fitz-Roy's voyages, was the well-known one of M. Hansteen.

By observations made with this cylinder on the 22d March 1826, and again on the 24th January 1830, in the garden of the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, it appeared that its time of performing 300 vibrations had increased from 734,45 seconds in 1826, to 775,80 seconds in 1831; or 41,35 seconds in 1,770 days. A change of such magnitude in the magnetic intensity of the instrument employed to measure the variations of the terrestrial intensity, and which ought itself, therefore, to be invariable, would, in the generality of cases, have prevented any satisfactory conclusion whatsoever being drawn from the observations. Fortunately from the nature of the duties in which Captain King was engaged, he had occasion to return frequently to the same anchorages, and by his extreme care to repeat observations on every such return, he has provided a means of computing the decrease of the intensity of the cylinder, proportioned to intervals of time, between 1826 and 1831; and of thus introducing compensations for it, which render the results on the whole nearly as satisfactory as if the cylinder had preserved an uniform magnetic condition throughout.

The voyage which Captain Fitz-Roy had to perform promised to furnish few, if any, such opportunities of examining the state of the magnetism of the cylinder, between the departure from and the return to England; and,--as it cannot but be extremely discouraging to officers to make observations which they have reason to apprehend may prove unavailing from defect in the instrument employed,--it must be regarded as exceedingly creditable to Captain Fitz-Roy and his officers, that, with the knowledge of the {503} change which the cylinder had undergone in the preceding voyage, they persevered in diligently observing, and carefully recording, its time of vibration, at most of the principal ports which they visited in their voyage of five years' duration. Nor was it until their return to the Cape Verd Islands, in September 1836, that they could infer, from observations repeated at the same spot as in their outward passage in 1832, that the cylinder had not varied in any thing like the degree that it had done in the preceding voyage, and that the care and pains they had bestowed were therefore likely to be recompensed by success.

This appears a fitting opportunity to remark, how much the establishment in England of a depository for magnetic needles is needed; whence officers, and persons desirous of making such observations, might be supplied with instruments, which had been kept a sufficient time to have attained their permanent magnetic state, and had been examined from time to time to prove that they had done so. The correction for temperature should be ascertained for each needle, and given with it; as well as the time of vibration (or whatever else constituted the measure of intensity,--as, for example, the angle of deflection in Mr. Lloyd's statical needles,)--observed at the spot which should be selected as most suitable for a point of general comparison; and the observations should be repeated at the same spot on the return of the needle. The want of such an establishment has long been greatly felt; and opportunities, where nothing was wanting but proper instruments, have been lost in consequence, where determinations of great value might have been obtained, in parts of the world of the highest magnetic interest, and where such opportunities are of rare occurrence.

The corrections necessary to render the times of vibration at the different stations strictly comparable with each other, are as follows.

1st, For the rate of the chronometer.

2d, For the temperature of the needle.

3d, For the arc of vibration.

4th, For any change in the magnetic condition of the cylinder.

In extensive voyages, the last-named correction, or that for the change in the cylinder itself, is the one which requires principal consideration. The corrections for temperature, and for the arc, on the first of which particularly much stress has sometimes been {504} laid, are important when extreme accuracy is sought; as for example, in comparing the force at stations which have served as the unities of different observers: their effect is, however, of little moment in observations which include great differences of the terrestrial intensity. But when the magnetic condition of the needle has varied, and interpolation becomes necessary, the instances are rare in which it can be done with entire satisfaction.

The time of vibration of this cylinder at Plymouth, with corrections applied for the chronometer's rate, the temperature, and the arc, was, in December 1831, 770,8 seconds, with a dip of 69° 27',6, and in October 1836, 777,3 seconds with a dip of 69° 17',5. The difference in its magnetic state, at the two periods, is shown by the squares of the times of vibration multiplied by the cosine of the dip observed at the respective periods. This makes known what the time of vibration of the same cylinder would have been, had it been free to move in the direction of the dipping-needle, instead of being suspended horizontally; and, consequently, if it had been acted upon by the total magnetic intensity, instead of by the horizontal component only. It is here assumed that the total terrestrial intensity is constant at the same place. This is doubtless not strictly true; but the amount of the change must be too small to require consideration in the period occupied by Captain Fitz-Roy's observations. The horizontal component must, however, necessarily vary with the changes in the dip: and it is, therefore, from the time of vibration in the direction of the dipping-needle, and not from the time of horizontal vibration, that the change, or otherwise, in the magnetism of the needle is to be inferred. We find, then, the equivalent time of vibration of this cylinder in the direction of the dipping-needle to have been 456,4 seconds in December 1831, and 462,2 seconds in October 1836; showing a difference of 5,8 seconds in fifty-eight months. If we compare this amount with the far greater loss of intensity sustained by this cylinder in the preceding voyage, it seems a probable supposition that, at the commencement of Captain Fitz-Roy's voyage, the cylinder had nearly attained its permanent magnetic state; and that its further loss of magnetism, occasioning an increase of 5,8 seconds in the time of vibration, took place in the early part of the voyage: supposing the loss to have been progressive, and not sudden, as from accidents, of which the observations give no indications. {505} Consistently with this supposition, the loss has been distributed through the first half, or twenty-nine months, of this voyage, in the proportion of three-tenths of a second per month in the first ten months, commencing December 1st 1831; two-tenths per month in the next nine months; and one-tenth per month in the remaining nine months. In the last twenty-nine months of the voyage, the intensity of the cylinder is supposed to have been uniform, and the same which it was found to possess on the return to England in 1836.

It is satisfactory that, with this compensation, the observations at Port Praya, in January 1832, and in September 1836, assign almost identically the same relative magnetic intensity to that station.

The correction for temperature for this cylinder not having been previously examined, I received it from Captain Fitz-Roy for that purpose, and made with it the following observations. The cylinder, in its own apparatus, was placed in a large earthen jar, glazed at the top, and standing in a larger earthen vessel, into which warm water could be poured at pleasure, and the cylinder was then vibrated alternately in heated air and in air of the natural temperature. These experiments were made at Tortington, in Sussex. {506}

+---------+-------+----------+----------+------------+ | | | | Thermom. | Time | | |Day. | Hour. |(Reaumur.)|of Vibration| +---------+-------+----------+----------+------------+ | | |h. m. | ° | s | | {|June 12|11 50 A.M.| 12,00 | 774,91 | | {| -- | 0 12 P.M.| 12,00 | 775,37 | | {| -- | 0 34 P.M.| 12,00 | 775,71 | | {| -- | 1 58 P.M.| 31,65 | 777,31 | | Exp. 1 {| -- | 2 21 P.M.| 32,20 | 777,09 | | {| -- | 2 42 P.M.| 31,30 | 776,86 | | {| -- | 4 00 P.M.| 15,45 | 774,00 | | {| -- | 4 22 P.M.| 15,80 | 774,25 | | {| -- | 4 44 P.M.| 15,70 | 774,23 | | | | | | | | {|June 13|10 49 A.M.| 14,90 | 773,77 | | {| -- |11 16 A.M.| 15,10 | 773,37 | | Exp. 2 {| -- | 0 20 P.M.| 34,80 | 775,94 | | {| -- | 0 42 P.M.| 36,55 | 775,89 | | {| -- | 1 30 P.M.| 17,70 | 774,06 | | {| -- | 1 52 P.M.| 15,90 | 774,11 | +---------+-------+----------+----------+------------+

+---------+------------------------------------------------------ -+ | | | | | | +---------+------------------------------------------------------ -+ | | | | {|} h. m. ° s | | {|} Mean, 0 12 P.M. 12,0 775,33 Natural Temperature. | | {|} | | {|} | | Exp. 1 {|} Mean, 2 20 P.M. 31,72 777,09 Heated Air. | | {|} | | {|} | | {|} Mean, 4 22 P.M. 15,65 774,16 Natural Temperature. | | {|} | | | | | {|} Mean, 11 02 A.M. 15,0 773,57 Natural Temperature. | | {|} | | Exp. 2 {|} Mean, 0 31 P.M. 35,7 775,92 Heated Air. | | {|} | | {|} Mean, 1 41 P.M. 16,8 774,08 Natural Temperature. | | {|} | +---------+--------------------------------------------------------+

In the first Experiment, T=777,09; T' 774.74; t=103°,4 Faht.; and t'=63°,1 Faht. In the second Experiment, T=775,92; T' 773,83; t=112°,3 Faht.; and t'=67°,8 Faht.

The first Experiment gives (T-T')/T(t-t') = 2.35/(777,09×40,3)=.000075. The second Experiment gives (T-T')/T(t-t') = 2,09/(775,92×44,5)=.000061.

{507}

Whence the formula T'=T [1 × 0.000068 (60°-t)], in which T is the time of vibration at any station, t, the temperature of the cylinder in degrees of Fahrenheit, and T' is the equivalent time at a standard temperature of 60°. The thermometer was noted at the beginning and ending of every set of vibrations, and was always placed in the box with the cylinder.

* * * * *

At all Captain Fitz-Roy's stations the apparatus was placed for observation on a stand, which raised it from two to three feet above the ground, thereby rendering the cylinder somewhat less liable to be disturbed by local influences: it was not furnished with a means of examining the strict horizontality of the cylinder, that improvement having been introduced into M. Hansteen's apparatus at a later period. On this point Captain Fitz-Roy remarks: "A small leaden tripod was used as a stand, whose upper surface was adjusted by a small spirit-level--or roughly by the trough of an artificial horizon, filled with mercury. Upon the leaden stand the box containing the needle was adjusted by its foot-screws, so that the suspending fibre of silk hung centrally in the wooden tube, the needle's centre being over that of the graduated circle, and the needle itself near, but not touching, the bottom of the box. The needle was not always strictly parallel to the bottom of the box, nor strictly horizontal, because I would not move the brass stirrup in which it was suspended, but its deviation from strict horizontality _never_ exceeded two degrees, and was seldom nearly so much."

The time of completing every tenth vibration was recorded. The time of performing 300 vibrations is deduced from a mean generally of seven partial results: _i.e._ from the 0th to the 300th; 10th to the 310th; and so on, to the 60th and 360th vibrations; the commencing vibration being always at an arc of 20°. In a very few instances the number of vibrations observed, after the commencing arc of 20°, was less than 360; in such cases the first vibration after the arc had become 20° has still been taken as the commencing one, though previous ones may have been recorded; it being kept strictly in view, to obtain the relative time of vibration in arcs as nearly the same as possible, and not exceeding 20° as the initial. The arc was reduced to 10° generally about the 100th vibration; and one thousandth of the time of vibration has been taken throughout the series as the correction to infinitely small arcs. {508}

The object of noting the time of every tenth vibration is to check errors in the counting, which will sometimes occur in the course of the 360, particularly with the very short and quick-moving needles of M. Hansteen's very portable apparatus, and at stations of low dip, where the horizontal force is greatest, and the needle consequently moves most quickly. Several such mistakes evidently occurred. When the time of completing every supposed tenth vibration is observed with tolerable exactness, and the duration of each pair of vibrations decidedly exceeds any irregularity of probable occurrence, apart from miscounting the number of vibrations, such mistakes can be discovered with ease, and rectified with certainty. This has been done in every case where no doubt could exist of a mistake of the kind having occurred; such as when all the intervals are of nearly equal duration, with one or two exceptions, which differ as much as three or four seconds from the general body. There are two stations, however, Callao and Keeling Islands, where the rectification is not so clear, or the true result so obvious. At Callao there are three series of horizontal intensities, each of forty observed intervals, which should be of ten vibrations each. Several of these intervals are between 17,5 and 18,5 seconds, and several others between 20,5 and 21,5 seconds. These can hardly represent an equal number of vibrations, because the difference between them is greater than can easily be supposed due to any uncertainty in seizing the particular beat of the chronometer at which the vibration was completed; it is, moreover, about the time that would be occupied by two vibrations more or less. The question then arises, do the longer intervals represent 12, and the shorter 10 vibrations, or do the longer represent 10, and the shorter 8? In the former supposition the intensity at Callao would be about 1.01 (Paris = 1.348): in the latter about 0.75. The difference shews how great an error would be risked by either assumption. If we take a mean of all the intervals as they stand, the amount of error risked would be certainly lessened; but we should assuredly not have the true time of three hundred vibrations, except on one supposition: namely, that the irregularities in question are not errors in estimating the number of vibrations, but that each interval really represented an equal number, and that some unusual and accidental cause occasioned the needle to differ so greatly in successive intervals. But this {509} supposition would imply a disturbing cause vitiating the series as a measure of the magnetic intensity at the station. I have not ventured, therefore, to draw any conclusion from these observations, farther than to notice, as above, the limits within which, in either of the two first suppositions, the intensity would fall.

A nearly similar reasoning applies to the observations at Keeling Islands; of three series, one is decidedly so irregular, that no inference could be drawn from it; in the two other series the irregularities are neither so frequent, nor so large: my general impression (in the uncertainty created by the irregularity of the first series), is, that the majority of the intervals are of twelve vibrations, and not of ten: if of twelve, the intensity would be about 1,21; if of ten, about 0,85.

The inconvenience of the rapid motion of the needle, occasioned, at one part of the voyage, the practice to be discontinued of observing every tenth vibration, and every twentieth was substituted. This no doubt relieved the perplexity in which the observer occasionally found himself, in having to observe, and record, and be prepared again to observe, at every twenty seconds or less, and so far the change enabled him to observe better. But still, the disadvantage remains, in so quick moving a needle, that if a mistake of two vibrations is made, the difference of time occasioned is not of so marked and decided a character as to be at all times at once distinguished. It is of much more importance that there should be no miscount of the vibrations, than that the times should be recorded correctly to the fraction of a second. It is only the earlier and later times that are finally influential; but every undetected error in the number of vibrations falls with its whole weight upon the result.

The occasional discrepancies in the results of the same, or of different, observers, or on the same, or on different, days, which are seen in the subjoined table, are not, I believe, traceable to the source I have been discussing, nor apparently to any other than an actual difference in the time of the cylinder performing its vibration. A mean has been taken as the result at each station, except at St. Helena, where the discrepancy on the 11th and 13th of July was so considerable, that it has been thought more satisfactory to collect the observations of each day into separate results.

The subjoined table comprises the result of each observation, {510} and the general results deduced for each station. The column entitled "Time" is that of 300 vibrations; and the "Corrected Time" is the mean of these, corrected for the rate of the chronometer and the arc, and reduced to an average temperature of 60°. The dips are those observed by Captain Fitz-Roy; except at Port Famine, where, as Captain Fitz-Roy did not observe, it has been supplied from Captain King's observations; and at Coquimbo, where, for the purpose of computing the intensity, it has been supplied by estimation from the other geographic positions on this coast, at which Captain Fitz-Roy observed the dip. In the column showing the time of vibration as a dipping-needle at Plymouth corresponding to the periods of observation at the several stations, the compensations have been introduced for the variation in the intensity of the cylinder, agreeably to what has been said above on that subject. The two final columns exhibit the values of the total magnetic intensity at the different stations derived from these observations. In the first of the two columns, the values are given relatively to the force at Plymouth, considered as unity; and in the second column, relatively to the force at Plymouth, expressed by 1.375; for the purpose of exhibiting Captain Fitz-Roy's results in direct comparison with the determinations of continental observers, who have taken Paris as their basis, giving the force at Paris the arbitrary expression of 1.3482. I have taken the ratio of the force at Plymouth to that at Paris to be as 1.375 to 1.348, which I believe will prove a very near approximation; it is that which results from Captain Fitz-Roy's observations at Plymouth, in October 1836 (page 17), and mine, at Tortington, in Sussex, in June 1837 (page 10): the dip at Tortington, at the period in question being 68° 57', and the intensity, compared with Paris, through the medium of London, 1.368. {511}

+--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |Chron.'s| | |Corrected| | Station. | Date. | Time.| Rate. |Therm.|Observer.| Time | +--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+ | | 1831 | s. | s. | ° | | s. | | Plymouth |Dec. 1|770,79| -3,0 | 50 | Kg. | 770,6 | | | 1832 | | | | | | | {|Jan. 27|600,17| -6,4 | 83 | F. }| 600,1 | | Port Praya {| -- 27|604,58| -6,4 | 76 | K. }| | | {| -- 28|598,33| -6,4 | 75 | F. }| | | {| -- 31|602,19| -6,4 | 85 | K. }| | | {|Feb. 1|602,50| -6,4 | 85 | F. }| | | | | | | | | | | Rio de Janeiro |May 1|582,78| -4,3 | 82 | S. | 581,3 | | | | | | | | | | Blanco Bay {|Sept.21|592,33| 0,0 | 68 | F. }| 591,9 | | {| -- 21|593,34| 0,0 | 68 | F. }| | | | 1833 | | | | | | | {|Mar. 12|603,22| +1,5 | 50 | F. }| | | Falkland Islands, {| -- 14|604,56| +1,5 | 63 | F. }| 603,0 | | Magellan Cove {| -- 15|603,12| +1,6 | 55 | F. }| | | {| -- 15|603,40| +1,6 | 64 | F. }| | | | | | | | | | | Monte Video {|Nov. 25|583,93| +7,1 | 90 | F. }| 581,9 | | {|-- 25|583,61| +7,1 | 90 | F. }| | | | | | | | | | | Port Desire {|Dec. 29|597,68| +3,9 | 62 | F. }| 597,1 | | {| -- 29|597,98| +3,9 | 62 | F. }| | | | 1834 | | | | | | | |Mar. 26|603,10| +5,0 | 60 | K. }| | | Falkland Islands {| -- 26|598,72| +5,0 | 60 | K. }| 595,9 | | Port Louis {| -- 26|596,36| +5,0 | 60 | K. }| | | {| -- 26|590,29| +5,0 | 60 | K. }| | | {| -- 26|594,20| +5,0 | 61 | K. }| | +--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+

+---------------------+--------+--------------------+------------+ | | | Time of Vibration | | | | |as a Dipping-Needle.| Intensity | | | |---------+----------+-----+------+ | |Observed|At each | At | | | | Station. | Dip |Station. | Plymouth.| 1. | 2. | +---------------------+--------+---------+----------+-----+------+ | | ° ' | s. | s. | | | | Plymouth |69 27,6 | 456,4 | 456,4 |1,000|1,375 | | | | | | | | | {|46 20,2 | 498,8 | 457,0 |0,839|1,154 | | Port Praya {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Rio de Janeiro |13 37,8 | 573,1 | 457,9 |0,638|0,878 | | | | | | | | | Blanco Bay {|41 54 | 510,7 | 459,4 |0,810|1,113 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Falkland Islands, {|53 30,4 | 465,0 | 460,6 |0,981|1,349 | | Magellan Cove {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Monte Video {|34 51,2 | 527,1 | 461,8 |0,767|1,055 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Port Desire {|52 43,5 | 464,7 | 461,9 |0,988|1,359 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Falkland Islands {|53 19,6 | 460,5 | 462,1 |1,007|1,385 | | Port Louis {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | +---------------------+--------+---------+----------+-----+------+

{512}

+--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |Chron.'s| | |Corrected| | Station. | Date. | Time.| Rate. |Therm.|Observer.| Time | +--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+ | | 1831 | s. | s. | ° | | s. | | {|May 10|601,67| +8,0 | 53 | K. }| | | R. Santa Cruz {| -- 10|601,72| +8,0 | 54 | St. }| 601,1 | | {| -- 10|601,03| +8,0 | 50 | St. }| | | | | | | | | | | Port Famine {|June 4|613,25| +6,0 | 70 | S. }| 612,6 | | {| -- 4|614,03| +6,0 | 70 | S. }| | | | | | | | | | | Chilóe {|Dec. 10|586,31| +9,2 | 62 | K. }| 586,0 | | {| -- 10|587,14| +9,2 | 62 | K. }| | | | 1835 | | | | | | | Port Low {|Jan. 15|587,14| +8,8 | 56 | K. }| 588,7 | | {| -- 15|591,16| +8,8 | 56 | K. }| | | | | | | | | | | Valdivia {|Feb. 19|587,67| +8,0 | 60 | K. }| 588,7 | | {| -- 19|591,01| +8,0 | 61 | K. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|Apr. 13|584,63| +10,5 | 65 | K. }| | | Concepçion {| -- 13|585,30| +8,6 | 65 | K. }| 583,1 | | {| -- 14|584,94| +8,6 | 64 | K. }| | | {| -- 14|581,03| +8,6 | 64 | K. }| | | | | | | | | | | Coquimbo {|June 4|566,81| +7,6 | 64 | K. }| 565,8 | | {| -- 4|566,37| +7,6 | 64 | K. }| | | | | | | | | | | Galapagos Islands,{|Oct. 16|529,66| -0,4 | 88 | St. }| 527,9 | | Charles Island {| -- 16|529,21| -0,4 | 88 | St. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|Nov. 16|580,33| +6,0 | 91 | K. }| | | Otaheite, {| -- 16|580,66| +6,0 | 93 | K. }| 578,4 | | or Tahiti} {| -- 23|578,44| +6,0 | 85 | K. }| | | {| -- 23|581,00| +6,0 | 85 | K. }| | +--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+

+---------------------+--------+--------------------+------------+ | | | Time of Vibration | | | | |as a Dipping-Needle.| Intensity | | | |---------+----------+-----+------+ | |Observed|At each | At | | | | Station. | Dip |Station. | Plymouth.| 1. | 2. | +---------------------+--------+---------+----------+-----+------+ | | ° ' | s. | s. | | | | {| | | | | | | R. Santa Cruz {| 55 15,7| 454,0 | 462,2 |1,037|1,425 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Port Famine {| 59 52,6| 434,0 | 462,2 |1,136|1,560 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Chilóe {| 48 58,9| 474,7 | 462,2 |0,948|1,304 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Port Low {| 51 20,1| 465,3 | 462,2 |0,964|1,260 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Valdivia {| 46 46,5| 487,2 | 462,2 |0,900|1,238 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Concepçion {| 43 15,4| 497,7 | 462,2 |0,863|1,186 | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Coquimbo {| 34 20 | 514,2 | 462,2 |0,808|1,111 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Galapagos Islands, {| 9 28,6| 524,2 | 462,2 |0,777|1,069 | | Charles Island {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Otaheite, {| 30 13,5| 537,6 | 462,2 |0,739|1,017 | | or Tahiti} {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | +---------------------+--------+---------+----------+-----+------+

{513}

+--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |Chron.'s| | |Corrected| | Station. | Date. | Time.| Rate. |Therm.|Observer.| Time | +--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+ | | 1835 | s. | s. | ° | | s. | | New Zealand {|Dec. 22|604,76| +7,8 | 80 | K. }| 603,6 | | {| -- 22|605,37| +7,8 | 80 | K. }| | | | 1836 | | | | | | | {|Jan. 14|620,63| -5,4 | 78 | S. }| | | Sydney {| -- 14|619,83| -5,4 | 82 | S. }| 617,9 | | {| -- 22|618,14| -5,8 | 86 | K. }| | | {| -- 22|619,21| -5,8 | 87 | K. }| | | | | | | | | | | Hobart Town {|Feb. 6|698,63| +2,3 | 65 | S. }| 697,4 | | {| -- 6|698,13| +2,3 | 65 | S. }| | | | | | | | | | | King George Sound {|Mar. 7|634,17| -5,6 | 72 | S. }| 634,1 | | {| -- 10|636,71| +2,4 | 80 | S. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|May 3|647,95| -9,2 | 87 | K. }| | | Mauritius {| -- 3|650,79| -9,2 | 94 | K. }| 647,7 | | {| -- 3|650,37| -9,2 | 94 | K. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|June 1|691,13| -7,2 | 68 | S. }| | | Cape of Good Hope {| -- 1|691,42| -7,2 | 69 | S. }| 690,6 | | {| -- 10|691,62| +0,4 | 61 | F. }| | | {| -- 10|692,00| +0,4 | 63 | F. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|July 11|612,90| -8,0 | 78 | S. }| | | St. Helena {| -- 11|615,30| -8,0 | 79 | St. }| 613,2 | | {| -- 11|615,40| -8,0 | 78 | S. }| | | | | | | | | | | {| -- 13|604,69| -8,0 | 76 | S. }| | | St. Helena {| -- 13|605,23| -8,0 | 77 | S. }| 602,9 | | {| -- 13|602,34| -8,0 | 72 | S. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|July 21|581,58| -9,4 | 75 | S. }| | | Ascension {| -- 21|581,31| -9,4 | 75 | S. }| 580,2 | | {| -- 21|581,09| -9,4 | 75 | S. }| | | | | | | | | | | {|Aug. 3|583,78| -9,4 | 75 | S. }| | | Bahia {| -- 3|583,26| -9,4 | 75 | S. }| 582,3 | | {| -- 4|583,13| -9,4 | 79 | S. }| | | {| -- 4|583,89| -9,4 | 79 | S. }| | +--------------------+-------+------+--------+------+---------+---------+

+---------------------+--------+--------------------+------------+ | | | Time of Vibration | | | | |as a Dipping-Needle.| Intensity | | | |---------+----------+-----+------+ | |Observed|At each | At | | | | Station. | Dip |Station. | Plymouth.| 1. | 2. | +---------------------+--------+---------+----------+-----+------+ | | ° ' | s. | s. | | | | New Zealand {| 59 32,0| 429,8 | 462,2 |1,157|1,591 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Sydney {| 62 49,4| 417,6 | 462,2 |1,225|1,685 | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | Hobart Town {| 70 34,9| 402,1 | 462,2 |1,321|1,817 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | King George Sound {| 64 41,3| 414,6 | 462,2 |1,243|1,709 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Mauritius {| 54 00,8| 496,5 | 462,2 |0,867|1,192 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Cape of Good Hope {| 52 35,0| 538,4 | 462,2 |0,737|1,014 | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | St. Helena {| 18 01,2| 598,0 | 462,2 |0,598|0,822 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | St. Helena {| 18 01,2| 587,9 | 462,2 |0,618|0,850 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Ascension {| 1 39,2| 580,1 | 462,2 |0,635|0,873 | | {| | | | | | | | | | | | | | {| | | | | | | Bahia {| 5 53,5| 580,7 | 462,2 |0,633|0,871 | | {| | | | | | | {| | | | | | +---------------------+--------+---------+----------+-----+------+

{514}

Observers:--F. Captain Fitz-Roy. Ss. Mr. J.L. Stokes. Kg. Capt. King. S. Lieut. Sulivan. St. Mr. P.B. Stewart. K. Mr. P.G. King.

* * * * *

{515}

3. _Captain King's Observations of Dip and Intensity._

Captain King, having hitherto made known his observations with the same cylinder in the years 1826 to 1830 only by communicating them to M. Hansteen, from whom he received the apparatus, has now given permission to Captain Fitz-Roy to publish them with his own. I have already noticed the great loss of magnetism which took place in this cylinder during Captain King's voyage, and the care with which that officer availed himself of every opportunity of ascertaining, by direct observation, the proportion of the loss sustained in separate portions of the voyage. There are twelve stations of observation on the east and west coasts of South America, besides three stations in ports of the Atlantic on the outward voyage. By the practice of repeating observations at the same station at distant intervals, the South American stations are so linked together and connected, that by adopting a method similar to that used in determining longitudes by means of chronometers, we may compute the intensity at all the South American stations referred to and dependent on the force at Rio de Janeiro; regarding Rio in the same light as a first meridian is considered in determinations of longitude. We may then make Rio the means of connecting the whole series with Europe; for which it is remarkably well suited, the intensity there having been determined, independently of Captain King, by four observers of different nations, whose results are extremely accordant.

The dip observations of Captain King were communicated, in occasional correspondence during the voyage, to M. Hansteen, who computed them by Mayer's formula, and arranged them in a table, of which a copy was given by Captain King to Captain Fitz-Roy, and is printed in the next page. At some of the stations Captain Fitz-Roy also observed the dip in the subsequent voyage, and, as will be seen, the results of the two observers sometimes differ considerably. This may have been caused, either by instrumental or other error of observation, or by actual differences of dip existing in different localities at the same station.

* * * * *

{516}

DIPS, _observed by_ Capt. P. P. King, 1826 to 1831.

+------------------+-------+---------------------+---------------------+ | | |Marked end a N. Pole.|Marked end a S. Pole.| | | |----------+----------+----------+----------+ | Station. |Needle.| a | a' | a" | a"' | +------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+----------+ | | | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' | | Rio de Janeiro {| 1 | 15 58,5 | 13 02,4 | 15 05,7 | 13 18,0 | | {| 2 | 14 39,4 | 12 30,4 | 14 49,0 | 13 07,3 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 22 54,1 | 24 04,7 | 21 55,6 | 22 46,0 | | Sta. Catharina {| 2 | 23 22,8 | 20 32,3 | 23 34,2 | 21 00,7 | | {| 3 | 21 17,8 | 21 08,5 | 23 26,2 | 22 57,2 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 36 48,4 | 37 49,3 | 35 25,4 | 37 26,9 | | Monte Video {| 2 | 37 17,2 | 34 53,8 | 37 17,1 | 34 37,4 | | {| 3 | 36 36,1 | 35 10,3 | 37 12,4 | 36 13,2 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 64 41,7 | 52 42,6 | 65 51,2 | 54 54,0 | | Port Famine {| 2 | 60 41,9 | 59 32,2 | 60 32,1 | 59 33,6 | | {| 3 | 60 03,9 | 58 43,4 | 60 35,5 | 59 37,5 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 41 09,9 | 30 50,9 | 41 04,6 | 31 32,6 | | Gorriti {| 2 | 36 29,2 | 33 26,4 | 35 17,1 | 34 02,7 | | {| 3 | 34 52,3 | 34 18,5 | 36 06,9 | 35 01,3 | | | | | | | | | Sea Bear Bay | 1 | 58 26,5 | 47 53,8 | 60 34,8 | 47 53,4 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 65 24,7 | 54 23,8 | 65 47,7 | 54 43,6 | | St. Martin Cove {| 2 | 60 25,6 | 59 28,3 | 59 49,9 | 58 48,6 | | {| 3 | 59 48,9 | 58 40,7 | 60 43,4 | 59 53,3 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 54 23,9 | 45 38,3 | 56 19,2 | 45 11,1 | | Chilóe {| 2 | 50 24,0 | 49 12,9 | 50 28,4 | 48 29,6 | | {| 3 | 49 43,9 | 48 48,3 | 51 24,5 | 50 02,2 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 43 04,5 | 33 59,9 | 44 38,8 | 34 54,6 | | Valparaiso {| 2 | 40 48,2 | 40 49,7 | 40 53,7 | 41 09,7 | | {| 3 | 40 54,9 | 40 45,4 | 40 49,8 | 41 16,7 | | | | | | | | | {| 1 | 50 22,7 | 39 16,0 | 51 08,2 | 40 03,2 | | Juan Fernandez {| 2 | 44 19,3 | 45 57,6 | 43 45,8 | 46 13,7 | | {| 3 | 45 50,4 | 45 07,9 | 44 34,8 | 43 25,7 | | | | | | | | | Talcahuano | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | +------------------+-------+----------+----------+----------+----------+

+------------------+---------------------+-------------------------+ | | | | | | | | | Station. | Dip deduced. | Remarks. | +------------------+---------------------+-------------------------+ | | ° ' ° ' | | | Rio de Janeiro {| 14 16,2 } 14 00,1 S.| | | {| 13 44,1 } | | | | | | | {| 22 49,6 } | | | Sta. Catharina {| 22 03,6 } 22 12,4 S.| | | {| 21 44,0 } | | | | | | | {| 37 00,7 } | | | Monte Video {| 35 59,3 } 36 28,4 S.| | | {| 36 25,3 } | | | | | | | {| 59 44,9 } | | | Port Famine {| 60 04,5 } 59 52,6 S.| | | {| 59 48,5 } | | | | | | | {| 35 38,3 } | | | Gorriti {| 34 43,8 } 35 05,9 S.| | | {| 34 55,6 } | | | | | | | Sea Bear Bay | 53 13,5 53 13,5 S.| | | | | | | {| 59 46,4 } | | | St. Martin Cove {| 59 38,4 } 59 43,8 S.| | | {| 59 46,6 } | | | | | | | {| 49 59,4 } | | | Chilóe {| 49 38,7 } 49 52,6 S.| | | {| 49 59,7 } | | | | | | | {| 38 40,1 } | | | Valparaiso {| 40 55,4 } 40 10,7 S.| | | {| 40 56,7 } | | | | | | | {| 44 40,5 } | | | Juan Fernandez {| 45 04,6 } 53 13,5 S.| | | {| 44 44,7 } | | | | | | | Talcahuano | -- 45 10,0 S.|The particulars of this | | | |observation are wanting. | +------------------+---------------------+-------------------------+

{517}

The following TABLE contains Captain KING'S Observations of Intensity, with the times of vibration corrected for the arc and reduced to a standard temperature of 60°.

MAGNETIC INTENSITY, _observed by_ Capt. P. P. King _between 1826 and 1831._

----------------+------------+------+------+-----------+----------------- | | | | Corrected | Station. | Date. | Time.|Therm.| Time. |Particular place. ----------------+------------+------+------+-----------+----------------- | | s. | ° | | Greenwich {|1826 Mar. 22|734,45| 55,0 | 733,97 }|Observatory. {|1831 Jan. 24|775,80| 41,6 | 776,01 }| | | | | | Madeira |1826 May 31|628,68| 66,0 | 627,79 |Consul's Garden. | | | | | Teneriffe | -- June 12|607,96| 75,0 | 606,73 |Fort St. Pedro. | | | | | Port Praya {| -- -- 22|559,53| 81,5 |} 557,08 {|Landing Place, {| -- -- 24|557,58| 85,0 |} {|Quail Island. | | | | | {| -- Aug. 29|546,36| 77,0 | 545,16 }| {|1827 Sept.12|552,06| 75,5 | }| Rio de Janeiro {| -- -- 15|552,95| 80,0 |} }|Rat Island. {| -- -- 15|553,73| 83,0 |} 551,70 }| {| -- -- 15|553,48| 85,0 |} }| {|1828 Dec. 21|562,55| 84,0 | 561,05 }| | | | | | Sta Catharina |1827 Nov. 3|554,42| 67,5 | 553,58 |Anhatomirim. | | | | | {|1826 Oct. 29|550,68| 63,0 |} 549,44 }| Gorriti {| -- Nov. 6|549,63| 66,0 |} }|The Well. {|1829 Jan. 10|564,12| 80,0 | 562,78 }| | | | | | {|1827 Dec. 18|555,12| 78,3 | 553,87 }|South point near Monte Video {|1828 Oct. 8|562,00| 72,5 | 560,95 }|the sea. {|1830 June 1|565,41| 59,0 | 564,89 }| | | | | | Port Sta Elena |1826 Dec. 4|557,26| 68,0 | 556,42 |Landing-place. | | | | | Sea Bear Bay |1829 Mar. 20|577,36| 70,0 | 576,37 |Landing-place. | | | | | {|1827 Jan. 15|584,88| 56,0 |} | St. Martin Cove{| -- -- 15|583,48| 58,0 |} 584,29 }|Head of the {| -- -- 22|585,82| 55,0 |} }|Cove. {| -- Mar. 27|585,82| 64,0 | 585,08 }| | | | | | {|1828 Jan. 28|589,75| 55,0 | 589,36 }| {| -- May 8|596,49| 43,8 | 596,54 }| Port Famine {| -- June 18|595,86| 32,7 |} 595,81 }|Observatory. {| -- July 30|594,85| 36,2 |} }| {|1830 Apr. 30|598,95| 45,0 | 598,97 }| | | | | | Chilóe {|1829 Sept. 1|565,40| 54,0 |} 565,23 |San Carlos. {| -- Dec. 15|565,69| 53,0 |} | | | | | | Juan Fernandez |1830 Feb. 19|552,77| 70,0 | 551,83 |Landing-place. | | | | | Talcahuano {|1829 Dec. 18|556,42| 67,0 | 555,59 }|Fort Galvez. {|1830 May 12|557,18| 60,5 | 557,18 }| | | | | | {|1829 Aug. 4|549,10| 59,0 | 548,59 }| Valparaiso {|1830 Jan. 11|551,77| 77,0 |} 551,60 }|Almendral. {| -- Feb. 1|553,50| 68,5 |} }| ----------------+------------+------+------+-----------+-----------------

{518}

At Rio de Janeiro, which was the first station observed at in South America, the cylinder was vibrated in August 1826, September 1827, and December 1828; in the intervals between these dates are comprised the greater part of the observations on the east side of South America. There is no direct observation at Rio subsequently to December 1828; but we are enabled to supply the time of vibration, which would have been observed had the cylinder been employed at Rio on June 1, 1830, in the following manner. We have seen that on the 15th September 1827 the time of vibration was observed at Rio; on the 18th December following it was observed at Monte Video. These observations give the intensity at Monte Video relatively to that at Rio, subject to whatever change of magnetism the cylinder may have undergone in the interval of three months. This comparison was repeated in the following year, on Captain King's return from Monte Video to Rio, the interval being nearly of the same duration, and the order of the experiment reversed, the passage being in this instance from Monte Video to Rio, it having been before from Rio to Monte Video. On the supposition of an uniform, or nearly uniform rate of change in the cylinder, the errors arising therefrom during the two passages would be of opposite kinds, and should compensate each other in a mean of the two comparisons. Calling the force at Rio unity, these comparisons give its value at Monte Video respectively as follows, namely,

September and December 1827 ... 1.197 } October and December 1828 ... 1.207 } Mean 1.202.

On the 1st of June 1830, being then on his return from the west coast of South America, and on the eve of sailing for England, Captain King again observed the time of vibration of the cylinder at Monte Video; whence, through the preceding comparison, we obtain the time of vibration at Rio, which should belong to the same date. We have thus a fourth date at Rio, which, added to those enumerated above, will include the whole of the South American stations; and we have only to distribute in each interval the loss of magnetism which the observations shew to have taken place from one date to the next, in the manner which may appear most suitable. There is no very obvious indication that the loss was other than gradual; and by considering it uniform in each separate {519} interval, the results are found extremely accordant at several other stations at which observations were repeated at distant intervals.

In the first of the subjoined tables are given the times of vibration at Rio at the four periods referred to; and the corresponding times as a dipping needle. In its three last columns are shewn,--the number of days comprised in each interval,--the increase in the time of vibration owing to the loss of magnetism,--and the resulting daily correction, on the supposition in each case of the loss having been uniform in the interval during which it occurred.

The second table contains the corrected times of horizontal vibration at each of the South American stations, at the dates respectively inserted,--the corresponding times as a dipping needle,--the times of vibration as a dipping needle at Rio de Janeiro at the same dates, derived from the observations in the first table,--and the resulting intensity at each station relatively to unity at Rio. Thus far the results are derived from Captain King's observations, unmixed with those of any other observer: but in order to bring Captain King's series into connexion with the general body of results of other observers, the values of his intensities are expressed in the final column in terms of the scale in common use, in which the force at Paris = 1,348, and at Rio de Janeiro 0,884; the latter being the mean of four independent determinations by the following observers, namely,

1817 and 1820 Freycinet 0,890 } 1827 Lütke 0,886 } 0,884 1830 Erman 0,879 } 1836 Fitz-Roy 0,878 }

Port St. Elena is not included in this table, as no dip was observed there, and the total intensity consequently cannot be computed. The three stations, Madeira, Teneriffe, and Port Praya, at which the cylinder was vibrated in the outward voyage, are also without dips observed by Captain King. The deficiency at Port Praya has been supplied from Captain Fitz-Roy's observations and my own, both having been made at the same place at which Captain King's intensity was observed,--Captain Fitz-Roy's at a later, and mine at an earlier date. At Madeira also the dip has been supplied from my observations, which were made in the British consul's garden at Funchal, where Captain King's cylinder was vibrated. I have {520} deducted, from my determination of the dip, 12' for the probable change between 1822 and 1826. At Teneriffe the dip has been frequently observed; but the values assigned by different observers vary so much as to indicate a more than usual frequency of local disturbance, which might also be expected from the geological character of that island. It would be unsafe therefore to employ any dip for that station but one which was certainly obtained at the same spot at which the horizontal intensity was observed.

The dates of the observations at these three stations fall between the observations at Greenwich in March 1826, and those at Rio de Janeiro in August of the same year. Having the intensity at Greenwich = 1,372 and at Rio = 0,884, and the dip at Greenwich 69° 52', and at Rio 14° 00, we have the time of vibration of Captain King's cylinder as a dipping needle at Rio at the respective dates as follows, namely,

March 1826 536,2. August 1826 537,0.

It appears therefore that but a very slight change took place in the magnetism of the cylinder during the outward voyage, and we may take 536,6 as the time of vibration at Rio, corresponding to the dates of the intermediate observations; and this is done in the table for Madeira and Port Praya. {521}

TABLE I.

------------------+------------------------+---------+-----+--------- | Time of Vibration. | | | |-----------+------------+ | | Rio de Janeiro. |Horizontal.|As a Dipping|Interval.|Loss.|Per Diem. | | Needle. | | | ------------------+-----------+------------+---------+-----+--------- | s. | s. | Days. | s. | August 29, 1826 | 545,2 | 537,0 |} 382 | 6,5 | .017 September 15, 1827| 551,7 | 543,5 |} | | December 21, 1828 | 561,1 | 552,7 | 462 | 9,2 | .020 June 1, 1830 | 563,8 | 555,4 | 527 | 2,7 | .005 ------------------+-----------+------------+---------+-----+---------

TABLE II.

---------------+-------------+------------------------+------------------ | | Time of Vibration. | Intensity. | |------------------------+-----------+------ | | At the Station.|At Rio.| | | |--------+-------+-------+ | | | | As a | As a | | | | |Dipping|Dipping| |Rio= Station. | Date. |Horizon.|Needle.|Needle.| Rio=1,000.|0,884. ---------------+-------------+--------+-------+-------+-----------+------ | | s. | s. | s. | | Madeira |1826 May 31| 627,79 | 430,1 | 536,6 |1,556 |1,377 | | | | | | Port Praya {|1826 June 22|}557,08 | 465,4 | 536,6 |1,330 |1,177 {| and 24|} | | | | | | | | | | Sta Catharina |1827 Nov. 3| 553,58 | 532,7 | 544,5 |1,045 |0,920 | | | | | | Gorriti {|1826 Oct. 29|}549,44 | 497,0 | 538,1 |1,172} | -- {| and Nov. 6|} | | | }1,175|1,041 -- |1829 Jan. 10| 562,78 | 509,0 | 552,8 |1,179} | | | | | | | Monte Video |1827 Dec. 18| 553,87 | 496,7 | 545,4 |1,206} | -- |1828 Oct. 8| 560,95 | 503,0 | 551,3 |1,201}1,203|1,065 -- |1830 June 1| 564,89 | 506,6 | 555,4 |1,202} | | | | | | | Sea Bear Bay |1829 Mar. 20| 576,37 | 446,0 | 553,1 |1,538 |1,361 | | | | | | St. Martin {|1827 Jan. 15|}584,29 | 414,9 | 539,4 |1,691} | Cove {| and 22|} | | | }1,692|1,498 -- | -- Mar. 27| 585,08 | 415,4 | 540,6 |1,694} | | | | | | | Port Famine |1828 Jan. 28| 589,36 | 417,5 | 546,2 |1,712 | -- | -- May 8| 596,54 | 422,6 | 548,2 |1,683} | -- {| -- June 18|}595,81 | 422,1 | 549,3 |1,694}1,700|1,505 {| and July 30|} | | | } | -- |1830 April 26| 598,97 | 424,3 | 555,1 |1,712} | | | | | | | Chilóe {|1829 Sept. 1|}565,23 | 453,7 | 554,2 |1,402 |1,321 {| and Dec. 15|} | | | | Juan Fernandez |1830 Feb. 19| 551,83 | 464,7 | 554,8 |1,425 |1,262 | | | | | | Talcahuano |1829 Dec. 18| 555,59 | 466,5 | 554,6 |1,413}1,412|1,250 -- |1830 May 12| 557,18 | 467,4 | 555,3 |1,412} | | | | | | | Valparaiso |1829 Aug. 4| 548,59 | 479,5 | 553,9 |1,334}1,329|1,176 -- {|1830 Jan. 11|}551,60 | 482,1 | 554,6 |1,324} | {| and Feb. 1|} | | | | ---------------+-------------+--------+-------+-------+-----------+------

{522}

4.--The following Table exhibits the MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS of Captains King and Fitz-Roy collected in one view.

---------------+---------+----------+----------+--------------+---------- | | | | |Intensity, | | | | | Paris= Stations. |Latitude.|Longitude.|Variation.| Dip. | 1,348. ---------------+---------+----------+----------+--------------+---------- | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' | ° ' | Madeira | 32 38 N.| 16 56 W. | -- | | K. 1,377 | | | | | Terceira | 38 39 N.| 27 13 W. | 24 18 W. | F. 68 06 N.| F. 1,457 | | | | | | | | |{ -- | K. 1,177 Port Praya | 14 54 N.| 23 30 W. | 16 30 W. |{F. 46 20,2 N.| F. 1,154 | | | |{F. 45 46,5 N.| F. 1,157 | | | | | Ascension | 7 56 S.| 14 24 W. | 13 30 W. | F. 1 39,2 N.| F. 0,873 | | | | | St. Helena | 15 55 S.| 5 43 W. | 18 00 W. | F. 18 01,2 S.|{F. 0,822 | | | | |{F. 0,850 | | | | | Falkland | 51 32 S.| 58 07 W. | 19 00 E. |{F. 53 30,4 S.| F. 1,349 Islands | | | |{F. 53 19,6 S.| F. 1,385 | | | | | Pernambuco | 8 04 S.| 34 51 W. | 5 54 W. | F. 13 12,9 N.| F. 0,914 | | | | | Bahia | 12 59 S.| 38 30 W. | 4 18 W. |{F. 4 55,8 N.|}F. 0,871 | | | |{F. 5 53,5 N.|} | | | | | Rio de Janeiro | 22 55 S.| 43 09 W. | 2 00 E. |{K. 14 00,1 S.|}F. 0,878 | | | |{F. 13 37,4 S.|} | | | | | Sta Catharina | 27 26 S.| 48 33 W. | -- | K. 22 12,4 S.| K. 0,920 | | | | | Gorriti | 34 57 S.| 54 57 W. | -- | K. 35 05,9 S.| K. 1,041 | | | | | Monte Video | 34 53 S.| 56 13 W. | 12 00 E. |{K. 36 28,4 S.| K. 1,065 | | | |{F. 34 51,2 S.| F. 1,055 | | | | | Blanco Bay | 38 57 S.| 61 59 W. | 15 00 E. | F. 41 54,0 S.| F. 1,113 | | | | | Port Desire | 47 45 S.| 65 55 W. | 20 12 E. | F. 52 43,5 S.| F. 1,359 | | | | | Sea Bear Bay | 47 51 S.| 65 48 W. | -- | K. 53 13,5 S.| K. 1,361 | | | | | R. Santa Cruz | 50 07 S.| 68 24 W. | 20 54 E. | F. 55 15,7 S.| F. 1,425 | | | | | St. Martin Cove| 55 51 S.| 67 34 W. | -- | K. 59 43,8 S.| K. 1,498 | | | | | Port Famine | 53 38 S.| 70 58 W. | 23 00 E. | K. 59 52,6 S.|{K. 1,505 | | | | |{F. 1,560 | | | | | Port San Andres| 46 35 S.| 75 35 W. | 20 48 E. | F. 54 13,6 S.| -- | | | | | Port Low | 43 48 S.| 74 02 W. | 19 48 E. | F. 51 20,1 S.| F. 1,326 | | | | | Chilóe | 41 51 S.| 73 56 W. | 18 00 E. |{K. 49 52,6 S.| K. 1,321 | | | |{F. 48 58,9 S.| F. 1,304 | | | | | Valdivia | 39 53 S.| 73 29 W. | 17 30 E. | F. 46 46,5 S.| F. 1,238 | | | | | Concepçion | 36 42 S.| 73 10 W. | 16 48 E. |{K. 45 10,0 S.| K. 1,250 | | | |{F. 43 15,4 S.| F. 1,186 | | | | | Valparaiso | 33 02 S.| 71 41 W. | 15 18 E. |{K. 40 10,7 S.|}K. 1,176 | | | |{F. 38 03,1 S.|} | | | | | Coquimbo | 29 59 S.| 71 26 W. | 14 24 E. | -- | F. 1,111 | | | | | Callao | 12 04 S.| 74 14 W. | 10 00 E. | F. 7 02,8 S.| | | | | | Galapagos | 0 50 S.| 89 37 W. | 9 30 E. | F. 8 41,2 N.| Islands | | | | | | | | | | Ditto | 0 15 S.| 90 31 W. | 9 30 E. | F. 9 28,6 N.| F. 1,069 | | | | | Juan Fernandez | 33 38 S.| 78 53 W. | | K. 44 49,8 S.| K. 1,262 | | | | | Otaheite | 17 29 S.|149 30 W. | 7 54 E. | F. 30 13,5 S.| F. 1,017 | | | | | Cape of Good | 34 11 S.| 18 26 E. | 28 30 W. | F. 52 35,0 S.| F. 1,014 Hope | | | | | | | | | | Mauritius | 20 09 S.| 57 31 E. | 11 18 W. | F. 54 00,8 S.| F. 1,192 | | | | | Keeling Islands| 12 05 S.| 96 55 E. | 1 12 W. | F. 38 33,1 S.| | | | | | New Zealand | 35 16 S.|174 00 E. | 14 00 E. | F. 59 32,0 S.| F. 1,591 | | | | | King George | 35 02 S.|117 56 E. | 5 36 W. | F. 64 41,3 S.| F. 1,709 Sound | | | | | | | | | | Hobart Town | 42 53 S.|147 24 E. | 11 06 E. | F. 70 34,9 S.| F. 1,817 | | | | | Sydney | 33 51 S.|151 17 E. | 10 24 E. | F. 62 49,4 S.| F. 1,685 ---------------+---------+----------+----------+--------------+----------

{523}

GENERAL REMARKS.

1. _Variation._

Captain Fitz-Roy's observations are so well distributed over the southern hemisphere, that a good view of the changes which the variation is undergoing throughout its meridians may be obtained by comparing his determinations with those of earlier observers at the same stations. The following table has been formed for the purpose of exhibiting such a comparison at all those stations where materials for it exist; and I may here remark how much such comparisons are facilitated by the valuable collection of early observations contained in the Appendix to the Magnetismus der Erde.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. | VALPARAISO. Observer. | Date.| Variation.| Observer. | Date.| Variation. | | ° ' | | | ° ' Davis | 1605 | 0. 30 E. | Don G. Juan | 1744 | 12. 30 E. Keeling | 1609 | 0. 12 W. | Vancouver | 1793 | 14. 49 E. Leydecker | 1675 | 8. 28 W. | Lütke | 1827 | 15. 00 E. Mathews | 1724 | 16. 22 W. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 15. 18 E. La Caille | 1752 | 19. 0 W. | Wales | 1772 | 20. 26 W. | CALLAO. Wales | 1775 | 21. 14 W. | Ulloa | 1740 | 9. 02 E. Bligh | 1788 | 23. 16 W. | Duperrey | 1823 | 9. 30 E. Dentrecasteaux | 1792 | 24. 30 W. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 10. 36 E. Freycinet | 1818 | 26. 31 W. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 28. 30 W. | GALAPAGOS ISLANDS. | Vancouver | 1794 | 8. 00 E. ST. HELENA | B. Hall | 1821 | 8. 20 E. Davis | 1610 | 7. 13 E. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 9. 30 E. Halley | 1677 | 0. 40 E. | Halley | 1691 | 1. 0 W. | OTAHEITE. Mathews | 1724 | 7. 30 W. | Cook | 1769 | 4. 45 E. Wales | 1775 | 12. 18 W. | Wales | 1773 | 5. 40 E. Hunter | 1789 | 15. 30 W. | Bayley | 1774 | 5. 49 E. Macdonald | 1796 | 15. 48 W. | Vancouver | 1794 | 6. 12 E. Krusenstern | 1806 | 17. 18 W. | Duperrey | 1823 | 6. 40 E. Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 18. 00 W. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 7. 34 E. | RIO DE JANEIRO. | BAY OF ISLANDS, N. ZEALAND. Cook | 1768 | 7. 34 E. | Tasman | 1643 | 8. 40 E. Hunter | 1787 | 6. 12 E. | Cook | 1769 | 11. 25 E. Freycinet | 1820 | 2. 54 E. | Duperrey | 1824 | 13. 22 E. Rumker | 1821 | 3. 21 E. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 14. 00 E. Erman | 1830 | 2. 10 E. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 2. 00 E. | SYDNEY. | Cook | 1770 | 8. 00 E. FALKLANDS ISLANDS. | Hunter | 1787 | 8. 30 E. Freycinet | 1820 | 19. 26 E. | Flinders | 1803 | 8. 51 E. Duperrey | 1822 | 19. 07 E. | Freycinet | 1819 | 9. 15 E. Fitz-Roy | 1833 | 19. 00 E. | Duperrey | 1824 | 8. 56 E. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 10. 24 E. PORT FAMINE | Wallis | 1766 | 22. 30 E. | VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. Carteret | 1766 | 22. 22 E. | Tasman | 1642 | 3. 00 E. Fitz-Roy | 1831 | 23. 00 E. | Bayley | 1777 | 7. 29 E. | Bligh | 1778 | 8. 33 E. CONCEPÇION. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 11. 06 E. La Perouse | 1786 | 15. 15 E. | B. Hall | 1821 | 15. 30 E. | MAURITIUS. Duperrey | 1823 | 16. 16 E. | Keeling | 1609 | 21. 0 W. Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 16. 48 E. | Mathews | 1722 | 19. 4 W. | Freycinet | 1818 | 12. 46 W. | Duperrey | 1824 | 13. 46 W. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 11. 18 W.

{524} We may derive from the facts in the above table the following general and easily remembered conclusion in regard to the changes of the variation in the southern hemisphere; namely, that taking for our point of departure the meridian of 65° west in South America, we find that at all the stations east of that meridian to the Cape of Good Hope inclusive, the north pole of the needle has moved towards the west; and that all the stations west of the same meridian to Mauritius inclusive, the north pole of the needle has moved towards the east.

An almost equally simple generalization may be drawn in respect to the changes of situation of the lines of equal variation in the southern hemisphere: but here it must be supposed either that the reader is thoroughly familiar with the general arrangement of these lines, or that he has a map of them before him. He will find such a map of the variation lines in 1787 in the Fifth Report of the British Association; but any other map, corresponding to any epoch within the last hundred years, will equally serve the purpose. Referring to such a map, it will be seen that the lines of variation in the South Pacific, form a system of nearly concentric curves, of an oval, or pear-shaped form, the outside curves having a higher variation, which progressively diminishes to the centre. We may regard this system as comprehending the whole of the geographical space between the coast of South America and the meridian of New Zealand. Throughout this space the variation is easterly, and increases: we may consequently characterize the change in the situation of the lines of equal variation as a progressive closing-in {525} of the curves from all sides towards the centre, by which the areas severally comprehended by them become less; and the lower variations, as they successively reach the centre, disappear, and are replaced by the closing-in of those of next higher amount. The changes which have taken place at all Captain Fitz-Roy's stations comprised within the space referred to, are accordant with the systematic alteration thus described.

In all other parts of the hemisphere the lines of variation have a progressive westerly movement, and to this also Captain Fitz-Roy's observations correspond.

It follows, from what has been stated, that the lines on the western side of the concentric system in the South Pacific have an eastward movement, which presents an apparent anomaly to the general progress of the lines of variation in the southern hemisphere, which is from east to west.

Otaheite, and the Bay of Islands in New Zealand, present examples of changes in the variation corresponding to this apparent anomaly. The consistency, however, both of the movement and of the configuration of the lines of variation in this quarter, with those in other parts of the southern hemisphere, and with the general system of the magnetic phenomena, has been shewn by Mr. Hansteen in the Magnetismus der Erde, and in the Annalen der Physik, vol. xxi.

The annual amount of the change of the variation appears considerably greater at the Cape of Good Hope and Mauritius than at any other of Captain Fitz-Roy's stations, amounting to about eight minutes; shewing that the variation lines in that quarter are changing their position more rapidly than elsewhere. The north pole of the needle is moving to the west at the Cape, and to the east at Mauritius; but it will be seen, by a reference to the map, that these opposite movements are in perfect correspondence with the uniform westerly progression of the variation lines, and result from their configuration.

At the stations in the vicinity of the meridian of 65° west, the change appears to be very small.

[The variation at Ascension (13° 30' W.) is correctly inserted in the tables: it is the only one of Captain Fitz-Roy's stations at which his observations are not accordant with those of other observers: the discordance may be occasioned by the great prevalence of local disturbances at Ascension.]

{526}

II. _Dip._

The following table exhibits the comparison of Captain Fitz-Roy's observations of the dip in the southern hemisphere, with those of earlier observers, at stations where the materials for such a comparison exist.

ASCENSION. | | Observer. | Date.| Variation.| Observer. | Date.| Variation. | | ° ´ | | | ° ´ La Caille | 1754 | 11. 10 N. | Lütke | 1827 | 45. 33 S. Cook | 1775 | 8. 57 N. | King | 1829 | 45. 10 S. Sabine | 1822 | 4. 30 N. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 43. 15 S. Duperrey | 1825 | 1. 58 N. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 1. 39 N. | KING GEORGE SOUND. | Vancouver | 1791 | 64. 54 S. ST. HELENA. | Flinders | 1801 | 64. 01 S. La Caille | 1754 | 9. 0 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 64. 41 S. Cook | 1775 | 11. 25 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 18. 01 S. | VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. | Cook | 1777 | 70. 15 S. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. | Bertrand | 1792 | 70. 50 S. La Caille | 1751 | 43. 0 S. | Dentrecasteaux | 1792 | 70. 30 S. Bayley | 1772 | 45. 37 S. | De Rossel | 1793 | 70. 10 S. Bayley | 1775 | 45. 19 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 70. 35 S. Abercrombie | 1775 | 46. 26 S. | Bayley | 1776 | 46. 31 S. | SYDNEY. Freycinet | 1818 | 50. 47 S | Flinders | 1803 | 62. 52 S. Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 52. 35 S. | Freycinet | 1819 | 62. 47 S. | Brisbane | 1821 | 62. 36 S. MAURITIUS (PORT LOUIS) | Duperrey | 1824 | 62. 20 S. La Caille | 1754 | 52. 17 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 62. 49 S. Duperrey | 1824 | 53. 51 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1836 | 54. 01 S. | N. ZEALAND (BAY OF ISLANDS). | Duperrey | 1824 | 59. 45 S. OTAHEITE. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 59. 32 S. Cook | 1773 | 29. 43 S. | Cook | 1774 | 29. 59 S. | TIERRA DEL FUEGO. Bayley | 1777 | 29. 47 S. | Bayley } | | Duperrey | 1823 | 30. 03 S. | Lat. 55°.22'; } | 1774 | 66. 54 S. Erman | 1830 | 30. 29.5 S| Long. 70. 03. } | | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 30. 13.5 S| King } | | | Lat. 55°.51'; } | 1828 | 59. 44 S. LIMA AND CALLAO. | Long. 67. 34. } | | Feuillée | 1710 | 10. 30 S. | Humboldt | 1799 | 9. 59 S. | FALKLAND ISLANDS. Duperrey | 1823 | 8. 33 S. | Freycinet | 1820 | 55. 20 S. Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 7. 03 S. | Duperrey | 1822 | 54. 49 S. | Fitz-Roy |1833-4| 53. 25 S. VALPARAISO. | Malaspina | 1793 | 44. 58 S. | STA CATHARINA. Vancouver | 1795 | 44. 15 S. | Duperrey | 1822 | 22. 54 S. Lütke | 1827 | 39. 56 S. | King | 1827 | 22. 12 S. King | 1829 | 40. 11 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1835 | 38. 03 S. | RIO DE JANEIRO. | La Caille | 1751 | 20. 0 S. CONCEPÇION. | Freycinet | 1817 | 14. 42 S. Feuillée | 1710 | 55. 30 S. | King | 1826 | 14. 00 S. Perouse | 1786 | 50. 00 S. | Lütke | 1827 | 14. 35 S. Duperrey | 1823 | 44. 55 S. | Erman | 1830 | 13. 31 S. | Fitz-Roy | 1832 | 13. 37 S.

We may classify the changes which are taking place in the dip in the southern hemisphere in four divisions, characterised by an {527} alternate increase and decrease of dip. Commencing with the meridian of Greenwich, and proceeding eastwardly round the hemisphere, we may distinguish the divisions as follows, in the order of their geographical succession.

_1st. South dip increasing._

annually. St. Helena 1754 to 1775 6,9' Do. 1775 to 1836 6,5 Cape of Good Hope 1751 to 1775 7,2 Do. 1775 to 1836 6,6 Mauritius 1754 to 1824 1,3 Do. 1824 to 1836 0,8

To this division also belongs Ascension; but as the north end of the needle dips at that island, the change is _north dip diminishing,_ instead of _south dip increasing._

Ascension 1754 to 1775 6,3 annually. Do. 1775 to 1836 7,2 --

_2d. South dip decreasing._

New Zealand 1824 to 1835 1,2 annually.[211]

_3d. South dip increasing._

Otaheite 1775 to 1836 0,5 annually.

_4th. South dip decreasing._

annually. Lima and Callao 1710 to 1799 0,4' Do 1799 to 1835 4,9 Valparaiso 1794 to 1835 10,0 Concepçion 1710 to 1786 3,7 Do. 1786 to 1835 8,3 Tierra del Fuego 1774 to 1828 8,0 Falkland Islands 1820 to 1834 8,2 St^a Catharina 1822 to 1827 8,4 Rio de Janeiro 1751 to 1817 4,8 Do. 1817 to 1832 4,3

In the 2d and 3d divisions the annual change is small; in the 1st and 4th considerably greater. It is greatest at the southern station in South America; the observations at Valparaiso, Concepçion, Tierra del Fuego, and the Falkland Islands, concur in shewing it to exceed 8'. The observations at Ascension, St. Helena, and the Cape of Good Hope, concur in shewing an annual change in that quarter of the 1st division exceeding 6'.

As the south dip decreases in South America, and increases in Africa, it is obvious that somewhere intermediately the dip must be stationary. Between Africa and New Zealand, for the same reason, there must be a second locality so characterised. Between New Zealand and Otaheite, a third; and between Otaheite and the west coast of South America, a fourth. Captain Fitz-Roy has {528} stations in the second of these localities only, between Africa and New Zealand. At Hobart Town, Sydney, and King George Sound, there appears to have been little or no change in the dip since the commencement of the present century.

The arrangement of the changes of dip in the southern hemisphere in four divisions, characterised by an alternate increase and decrease of dip, is in correspondence with the _double flexure_ of the lines of dip; and is a consequence of the western motion of the two southern magnetic poles.

Careful observations made at St. Petersburgh, have shewn that the annual change of the dip in the northern hemisphere takes place altogether between the months of May and December; there being in fact a small movement in an opposite direction between December and May. This fact is of great interest in its bearing on the study of the causes of the magnetic phenomena. We have as yet no corresponding knowledge in regard to the southern hemisphere. The magnitude of the annual change which Captain Fitz-Roy's observations show is now taking place at the Cape of Good Hope, is deserving of attention in this respect. A large amount of annual change is obviously highly favourable for a determination of all the circumstances belonging to it; and its existence at the Cape, where there is already a fixed observatory, points to that station as most eligible for this investigation.

The observations at Ascension shew that the epoch is fast approaching when the needle will pass from north to south dip at that island: it is extremely desirable that the period at which this change takes place should be determined with as much precision as possible.

III. _Intensity._

I have discussed in the Seventh Report of the British Association, the very important inferences in regard to the general distribution of magnetism in the southern hemisphere, afforded by Captains King and Fitz-Roy's most valuable series of intensity observations; but no inferences in regard to the _changes_ which this phenomenon may be supposed to undergo can be drawn, as has been done in the cases of the variation and dip, because we possess no observations of the intensity made at a sufficiently early period to afford good materials for such a comparison.

EDWARD SABINE.

* * * * *

{529}

CATALOGUE OF THE MORE INTERESTING SPECIMENS OF NATURAL HISTORY THAT WERE COLLECTED DURING THE VOYAGE.

MAMMALIA.

1. MUSTELA ZORILLA. Desm:[212]

The skunk. This animal was found abundantly on the coast of Patagonia, between Monte Video and Cape Gregory, at the eastern entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens. It appeared to be the same species throughout the whole extent of the coast.--Mus. Zool. Soc.

2. MUSTELA LUTRIS.--Lin.

_Lutra marina_, Steller. Erxleb. Harlan; _Enhydra marina_, Fleming.

The sea otter exists, but not very plentifully, on the coast of Tierra del Fuego; we saw very few. The Fuegian Indians hunt them with dogs which are trained for the purpose.--Museum Zool. Soc.

3. CANIS.

The dogs belonging to the Fuegian Indians are certainly of the domesticated kind, originally obtained, probably, from the Spanish settlements at Buenos Ayres; generally they resemble the Esquimaux breed, but are much more diminutive in size.

4. CANIS VULPES.

Two if not three distinct species of the fox were brought home; one, of a small size, was thought to be a novelty; the other, perhaps, was only remarkable for its large size. Mr. Vigors thought the small one was quite new; the last is perhaps _C. cinereo argenteus_.--Museum of Zool. Soc.

5. FELIS PUMA.

Several were seen: a skeleton was found on the shores of the Strait, supposed to be one of the above species.

{530}

6. FELIS PAJEROS.--Desm. E. M. p. 231.

Chat pampa, D'Azara, 1. 179.

A variety of this species was given to me, by the Patagonian Indians, that had been recently killed; the skin was preserved, and is now in the museum of the Zoological Society. The following is the description of my specimen:--

The prevailing colour is a yellowish grey, deeper above, and gradually blending into the colour of the belly, chin, neck, inner part of the legs, the region of the anus, and below the root of the tail, which are white; the under part of the neck and belly also are spotted with black, disposed in transverse bands; the fore arms have three similar transverse bands, and the thighs four encircling the legs; ears white inside and tipped black; eyes dark blue, eyelids whitish, corner of the eyes black, particularly at the anterior or inner angle; claws whitish, and paws black; whiskers white, and some long white hairs over the eyes; the canine teeth are very acute, and have the longitudinal grooves or angles deeply marked.

Inches. Length of the body from the extremity of the nose to the root of the tail 29 Length of tail 11¾ Ditto head 6 Breadth of head between the ears 2-7/8 Height at the shoulder 12

7. OTARIA JUBATA.--Desm. E. M. No. 380.

The sea lion of Anson and other voyagers; numerous in the eastern entrance of the Strait, and particularly at Port San Julian and the neighbourhood of Port Desire.

8. OTARIA FLAVESCENS.--Desm: E. M. 250.

A young male was found on the beach, near Port Famine, that had been recently wounded by the Indians, and had crawled on shore to die.

9. CTENOMYS MAGELLANICUS. n. s.--Bennet.

This little animal possesses fur as soft as the chinchilla. It abounds in the neighbourhood of Cape Gregory, at the eastern entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and burrows under the {531} ground, which is so much undermined by them that it gives way at almost every step. It is a timid little fellow, feeds upon grass, and is eaten by the Patagonian Indians.--See Bennet in the Proceedings of the Zool. Soc. Dec. 22, 1835. A specimen is preserved in the Museum.

10. KERODON KINGII. n. s.

See Bennet ut supra, in Museum of Zool. Soc.

11. CAVIA CUTLERI, n. s. nob.--See Bennet ut supra.

This specimen is in the collection of the Society. It was known in the voyage by the name of the Peruvian cavy: it was presented to one of the officers of the Beagle by an American sailing master, Mr. Cutler, of Stonington, U.S., a very intelligent person, to whom we are much indebted for information. The name which I have proposed for it is in recollection of the benefit we derived from his experience and knowledge of the intricate navigation of the south-western coast of Patagonia, which was freely imparted to us on several occasions.--See Bennet in Proceedings of Zool. Soc. ut supra.

12. DASYPROCTA PATACHONICA.--Desm. E. M. 358.

I regret very much that the only specimen obtained was not preserved. Desmaret seems to suspect that it differs sufficiently in its dentition from the agouti to constitute a new genus, for which he has proposed the name _Dolichotis_.--See E. M. 359.

13. DASYPUS MINUTUS.--Desm.

Procured at Port Sta Elena, and corresponds exactly with the description of the above species. It is the Tatou pichiy, or Tatou septième of D'Azara.

14. AUCHENIA GLAMA.--Desm. E. M. 655.

A living female guanaco was brought home in the Adventure, and placed in the garden of the Zoological Society. The guanaco inhabits Patagonia from Buenos Ayres to the Strait of Magalhaens: we also found it on King Charles Foreland, the eastern island of Tierra del Fuego, and on Navarin Island, at the north side of Nassau Bay, in the vicinity of Cape Horn.

* * * * *

{532}

BIRDS.

1. SARCORAMPHUS GRYPHUS.--Duméril. The Condor. _Vultur Gryphus._--Lin.

2. CATHARTES IOTA.--Chilian Eagle.

3. POLYBORUS VULGARIS.--_Falco Brasiliensis._ Latham. Caraçara Eagle.

Strait of Magalhaens.

4. MILVAGO OCHROCEPHALA.--Spix. Young birds.

Strait of Magalhaens.

5. HALIÆTUS ERYTHRONOTUS.--Nob. in Zool. Journal, iii. 424.

_Hal. capite alisque fusco-griseis; dorso scapularibusque rufis, corpore caudâque subtus albis, fasciis fuscis gracilibus leviter notatis, hâc fasciâ latâ prope apicem nigrâ._

The total length of the bird from the _apex_ of the bill to the extremity of the tail is 2 feet; of the bill from the _rictus_ to the _apex_ 2 inches; from the cere 1 inch; of the wing, from the end of the carpal joint to the end of the third quill feather, 18 inches; of the tail 10½ inches; of the _tarsus_ three inches.

Strait of Magalhaens.

6. FALCO SPARVERIUS.--Latham.

Strait of Magalhaens.

7. FALCO PEREGRINUS?

Strait of Magalhaens.

8. POLYBORUS BRASILIENSIS.

Polyborus Novæ Zealandiæ. Falco Novæ Zealandiæ of Latham.

9. CIRCUS HISTRIONICUS.--Nob. in Zool. Journal, iii. 425.

_Falco histrionicus_, Quoy and Gaimard.

_Circo cineraceus uropygio corporeque subtus albis: hoc fasciis frequentibus rufis notato._

The length from the _apex_ of the bill to that of the tail is 18 {533} inches; bill 1 inch; wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the third quill feather, 13½ inches; tail 9 inches; _tarsus_ 2½ inches.

Strait of Magalhaens.

10. STRIX RUFIPES.--Nob. in Zool. Journ., iii. 426.

_Str. saturate brunnea, albido fulvoque maculata fasciataque femorum tarsorumque plumis rufis._

The total length is 15½ inches; that of the bill 1 inch; of the wing, from the _carpus_ to the end of the fourth quill feather, 11 inches; of the tail 7½ inches; of the _tarsi_ 2-3/8.

11. STRIX NANA.--Nob. in Zoological Journal iii. 427.

_Str. fusco brunnea, fronte nuchâ alisque albo-notatis, gulâ albâ, caudâ fasciis frequentibus rufis notatâ._

The total length is 5-4/5 inches; of the bill ½ inch; of the wing, from the _carpal_ joint to the extremity of the fourth quill feather, 3¾ inches; of the tail 2¾ inches; of the _tarsi_ 7/8.

_N.B._--Three other species of this genus are in the collection which appear to be new.

12. HIRUNDO.--Sp.*

13. HIRUNDO.--Sp.*

14. HIRUNDO.--Sp.*

* Three distinct species of swallow, very much resembling the British species,--_Hir. rustica_, _urbica_, and _riparia_.

Strait of Magalhaens.

15. TURDUS MAGELLANICUS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Turd. corpore supra grisescenti olivaceo, subtus pallidè rufescenti, capite supra, remigibus, caudâque fusco-atris gulâ-alba, fusco-atro lineatâ._

Strait of Magalhaens.

16. SYNALLAXIS ANTHOIDES.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Syn. supra brunnea plumis in medio fusco latè striatis, tectricibus alarum superioribus rufo tinctis subtus pallidè cinerea; rectricibus lateralibus ad marginem externum, fasciâque alarum, rufis. Statura. Syn. Spinicaudæ._

Strait of Magalhaens.

17. SYLVIA SPINICAUDÆ.--Latham.

{534}

18. SYLVIA DORSALIS.--Nob. in Zool. Journ. iii. 428.

_Syl. nigra, dorso scapularibusque rufis, remigibus rectricibusque fuscis._

The length from the end of the bill to that of the tail is 4½ inches.

19. SYLVIA OBSCURA.--Nob. in Zool. Journ. iii. 429.

_Syl. corpore unicolore fusco-nigro, alis brevibus rotundatis caudâ brevi, pedibus elongatis, fortibus pallidis._

The length from the apex of the bill to that of the tail is 4¼ inches; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the fourth quill feather, 1-7/8; of the tail 1¼; of the _tarsi_ ¾.

20. TROGLODYTES.

21. FRINGILLA.--(Several species, probably new.)

22. STURNUS MILITARIS.--Lin.

MOTACILLA PATACHONICA.---Lin. Patagonian warbler of Dixon's voyage.

23. STURNUS.--Sp. (black)? Leistes sp. Vigors.

24. DENDROCOLAPTES ALBO-GULARIS. Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Dend. corpore supra, abdominisque lateribus, rufo brunneis; remigibus secundariis, dorso imo, caudâque rufis; mandibulâ inferiori ad basim, gulâ, jugulo, pectore, abdomineque medio, albis, hujus plumis brunneo ad apicem marginatis; rostro sursum recurvo._

Length 6-4/10 inches.--Strait of Magalhaens.

25. PSITTACUS SMARAGDINUS.--Gmel.

26. PSITTACARA LEPTORHYNCA. Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Psitt. viridis: fronte, strigâ per oculos, caudâque rufis: capite nigro, abdomine imo rufo, variegatis; mandibulâ superiori elongatâ, gracillimâ._

Staturâ.--_Psitt. Lichtensteinii æqualis. Habitat in insulâ_ Chilóe.

27. PICUS MAGELLANICUS.--Nob. in Zool. Journ. iii. 430.

_Pic. niger, capite cristato colloque coccineis, remigibus albo notatis._

Foem. _Capite cristato nigro, fronte mentoque coccineis._

{535}

The length of the bird from the tip of the bill to the extremity of the tail is 17 inches; of the bill 2½; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the fourth quill feather, 8¾; of the tail 7½; of the _tarsi_ 1-1/8; of the external hind toe, the nail included, 2.

Strait of Magalhaens.

28. PICUS MELANOCEPHALUS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Pic. capite corporeque supra nigris, hoc albo maculato; pectore abdomineque albis, illo albo lineato, hoc albo fasciato._

Length 6 or 7 inches.--Strait of Magalhaens and Chilóe.

29. MELLISUGA KINGII--Vigors in Zool. Journal, iii. 432.

_Ornismya sephanoides._--Lesson et Garn.

_Mell. supra metallicè viridis, infra alba viridi variegata, vertice splendide rubeo, rectricibus acuminatis._

This bird was found in the Strait of Magalhaens, so late in the year as the month of May, when it was seen flying in a snow-squall. It seemed regardless of the cold, and so long as the _fuchsia_ and _veronica_ were in blossom, so long did this hitherto supposed to be delicate little bird, remain to cull their sweets, or rather to prey upon the insects which buried themselves in the flowers; for, innocent as it seems, it is insectivorous. The bird was long known to naturalists, but was not described until November 1827, when Mr. Vigors described it, from a specimen transmitted by me to the Museum of the Zoological Society. It was found by MM. Lesson and Garnot, on the coast of Chile, where we also subsequently found it. M. Lesson described it in his useful little Manuel d'Ornithologie, ii. p. 80, as above, and has given a detailed account. Had not Mr. Vigors previously described it, I should have had pleasure in referring it to their description, and their excellent plate, in Lesson's Monograph upon the Trochilidæ.

30. TROCHILUS FERNANDENSIS.--Nob. in Proceedings Zool. Soc.

_Troch. ferrugineo-rufus; capitis vertice splendenti-coccineo; remigibus fuscis._

Length, 5 inches.

Island of Juan Fernandez, South Pacific.

31. TROCHILUS STOKESII.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Troch. corpore supra viridi-splendente, subtus albo viridi-guttato; capite supra, guttisque confertis gulæ lazulino-splendentibus; {536} remigibus fusco-atris; remigum omnium, mediis exceptis, pogoniis internis albis._

Length 5 inches.

Island of Juan Fernandez.

HYLACTES.--_Novum genus. Megapodio affine._

_Characteres Generici._

_Rostrum subelongatum, subtenue, apice subemarginato; naribus basalibus, longitudinalibus, membranâ subtumescenti pilisque per mediam longitudinem tectâ._

_Alæ, brevissimæ, rotundatæ; remige 5ta longissimâ._

_Cauda, subelongata, gradata._

_Pedes, fortes: tarsis subelongatis, in fronte scutellatis; digitis unguibusque elongatis, hic fortioribus subcompressis; halluce fortissimo, incumbente._

This genus appears to have some resemblance to MM. Quoy and Gaimard's genus _Megapodius_: but no specimen of it being in this country, and my bird differing in essential points from its generic characters, particularly in the length and form of the wings, which in my bird are rounded, and so short as not to reach beyond the base of the tail, I have formed it into a new genus, for which the term Hylactes (from its note, which very much resembles the sharp bark of a dog) has been selected.

32. HYLACTES TARNII.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Hyl. saturate fusco-brunneus; fronte, dorso, abdomineque rufis, hoc fusco fasciato._

At Chilóe and Port Otway, in the Gulf of Peñas.

The specific name I have selected is in compliment to Mr. John Tarn, surgeon of the Adventure, to whose attention, in procuring and preserving numerous specimens in ornithology, I am greatly indebted.

33. STRUTHIO RHEA.--Lin. (223.)

The American ostrich. Maldonado.

34. COLUMBA FITZ ROYII.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Col. binacea; alis, dorso imo, caudâque plumbeis, hujus fasciâ remigibusque atris: nuchæ plumis viridi-splendentibus; fascia occipitali albá._

In the woods of Chilóe.

Dedicated to Captain Robert Fitz Roy, who succeeded to the command of H.M.S. Beagle upon the death of Captain Stokes. {537}

35. COLUMBA MERIDIONALIS.--Nob. in Zool. Journal, iv. 92.

_Col. brunnescenti-plumbea, subtus rufescens; colli lateribus purpureo nitore splendentibus, genis pennisque secundariis nigro maculatis, rectricibus apice griseo fasciâque sub-apicali nigrâ._

Length, 9½ inches.

36. ARDEA.--Sp. One of the night bitterns.

37. ARDEA MAJOR.--Bonat., E. M. 1148.

Port Otway, Gulf of Peñas.

38. IBIS MELANOPIS.--Bonat., E. M. 1148.

Port San Julian.

In the Ency. Méth. the length of the bird is stated to be 21 inches, but in the Dict. d'Histoire Naturelle 27 inches is given, which is correct.

39. TOTANUS FUSCUS?

40. SCOLOPAX MAGELLANICUS.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 93.

_Scol. supra brunneus, rufo fulvo nigroque maculatus undulatusque; abdomine medio albo; pectore brunneo rufoque sparso; tarsis brevibus._

The length of the bird from the front to the end of the tail is 8½ inches; of the beak 2½; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the quill feather, 5; of the tail 2½; and of the _tarsi_ 1-1/16.

Strait of Magalhaens.

41. RHYNCHÆA OCCIDENTALIS.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 94.

_Rhync. supra brunnea, capite summo pectore alisque saturatioribus, fulvo undulata strigataque; abdomine, maculâ utrinque pectorali, maculisque alarum, albis, stringâ frontali brunneâ._

The length of the bird from the forehead to the end of the tail is seven inches; of the bill 1-3/8; of the wing from the carpal joint to the extremity of the first quill feather, 4¼; of the _tarsus_ 1-5/16; of the tail 1¾.

Strait of Magalhaens.

This bird may be considered as one of the most interesting acquisitions made in our voyage. The singular and strongly marked genus has been hitherto considered peculiar to the Old World; and two species only having been discovered, an additional species from the New World is an important accession to science. The form of our Magellanic bird accords accurately with that of the Old World species, the bill being distinguished chiefly by its {538} inferior length. The general appearance of the plumage also is similar, although it possesses sufficiently distinctive characters to authorize this species being separated from the other.

42. RALLUS SETOSUS.--Nob. in Zool. Journ. iv. 94.

_Rall. supra brunneus, dorso alisque nigro notatis, subtus plumbeus; remigibus primariis rectricibusque fuscis, his saturatioribus; fronte setoso._

The length of the bird from the forehead to the extremity of the tail is 10 inches; of the bill 1-15/16; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the second quill feather, 4-7/8; of the tail 3; of the _tarsus_ 1-5/8.

43. RALLUS ANTARCTICUS. Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 95.

_Rall. supra brunneus, nigro strigatus; subtus plumbeus, femorum tectricibus crissoque atris, albo-fasciatis._

The length of the body is 7½ inches; of the bill 1¼; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the second quill feather, 3¾; of the tail, 1¾; of the _tarsus_ 15/16.

44. FULICA CHLOROPOÏDES.--Nob. in Zool. Journ. iv. 95.

_Ful. capite, coll. superiore, caudâque atris; corpore reliquo atro-fusco, crisso albo._

The length of the body is 15 inches; of the bill 1¼; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the extremity of the second quill feather, 6½; of the tail 3; of the _tarsi_ 2.

45. FULICA GALLINULOÏDES.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 96.

_Ful. atro-fusca; dorso saturatiore, capite atro, gulâ albo-notatâ crisso albo, rostro angusto, in frontem parum extendente._

46. CHIONIS ALBA.--Forster.

Seen at Cape Horn, and at sea, four hundred miles from the nearest land. Captain Foster, of H.M.S. Chanticleer, saw some at South Shetland.

47. HÆMATOPUS PALLIATUS.--Temminck.

Strait of Magalhaens.

48. HÆMATOPUS LEUCOPUS.--Gam.

Strait of Magalhaens.

The above two species of Hæmatopus were frequently seen on {539} the shores of the Strait; the latter appears to answer the description of M. Bougainville. See Lesson, Manuel d'Ornithologie, ii. 30.

49. CHARADRIUS PLUVIALIS.--Var.

Not to be distinguished from the golden plover.

50. CHARADRIUS RUBECOLA.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 96.

_Char. capite summo, dorso, alis, caudâque supra grisescenti-fuscis, thorace nuchâque pallide griseis; pectore rufo, collari subpectorali nigro; fronte, striga superciliari, abdomine, crisso, rectricibusque lateralibus albis._

The length of the body is 8-2/3 inches; of the bill ¾; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the first quill feather, 5-5/8; of the tail 3; of the _tarsi_ 1¼.

Mountains of the Strait of Magalhaens 2,000 feet above the level of the sea.

51. VANELLUS CAYANENSIS.--Ency. Méth. 1073. pl. 57, fig. 2.

Maldonado, River Plate.

52. PODICEPS.--Sp.

Very much resembling P. minor.

53. PODICEPS.--Sp.

54. PODICEPS LEUCOPTERUS.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 101.

_Pod. capite colloque superioribus nigris, gulâ griseo-albidâ, collo inferiore rufo; dorso fusco-atro; abdomine strigâque latâ alarum albis._

The length of the body is 20 inches; of the bill 3; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the apex of the second quill feather, 7¼; of the _tarsi_ 2.

55. APTENODYTES MAGELLANICA.--E. Méth.

56. APTENODYTES CHRYSOCOME.?--A young bird.

57. PHALACROCORAX NIGER.--Nob. in Zool. Journal, iv. 101.

_Phal. intensè niger, circulo angusto ab oculis descendente, mandibulasque circumcingente, paucisque genarum capitisque plumis albis._

The length of the bird is 31 inches; of the bill 3-3/8; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the extremity of the third quill {540} feather, 11; of the tail 7½; of the _tarsi_ 2. The irides a bright blue green; the pupils black.

This bird is probably D'Azara's black Zaramagullon (No. 432 of his Birds of Paraguay), but it has not hitherto been described.

58. PHALACROCORAX ATRICEPS.--Nob. in Zool. Journal, iv. 102.

_Phal. capite supra corporeque superiore atris, inferiore albo; rostro pedibusque flavescentibus, rectricibus duodecim._

The dimensions are nearly the same as those of the last bird, except those of the bill, which is a quarter of an inch longer.

59. PHALACROCORAX CIRRIGER.

_Phal. supra fusco-griseus, subtus albidus; gulâ, cirroque longitudinali per collum utrinque descendente, albis; rostro pedibusque rubris; rectricibus quatuordecim._

The length of the body is 26 inches; of the bill 3-3/16; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the extremity of third quill feather, 10; of the tail 6; of the _tarsi_ 1¾.

60. PHALACROCORAX IMPERIALIS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zoological Society.

_Phal. capite cristato, collo posteriori, corporeque supra intense purpureis; alis scapularibusque viridi atris; remigibus rectricibusque duodecim fusco-atris; corpore subtus, fasciâ alarum, maculâque dorsi medii sericeo-albis; rostro nigro; pedibus flavescentibus._

_Statura._--_Phal. carbonis._

_Hab._--Interior Sounds of Western Patagonia.

61. PHALACROCORAX SARMIENTONUS.

_Phal. capite, collo, dorsoque imo atro-purpureis; pectore abdomineque albis; dorso superiori, scapularibus, alisque viridi-atris; remigibus rectricibusque duodecim atris; gulâ, genis, femorumque tectricibus superioribus albo-notatis; rostro nigro; pedibus flavescentibus._

_Staturâ præcedentis._

Strait of Magalhaens.

62. PHALACROCORAX ERYTHROPS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zoological Society.

_Phal. capite, collo, corporeque supra purpureo-atris; pectore abdomineque albis; genis parcè albo-notatis; facie nudâ rubrâ; {541} remigibus, rectricibus duodecim, rostroque sub-brevi atris: pedibus flavescentibus._

_Staturâ paulo minor præcedentibus duobus._

63. LARUS HÆMATORHYNCHUS.--Nob. in Zool. Journ. iv. 103.

_Lar. corpore plumbeo-griseo, dorso medio alisque nigris, his albo notatis; rostro pedibusque sanguineis._

The length of the bird is 18 inches; of the bill 2; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the end of the first quill feather, 13; of the tail 6; of the _tarsi_ 2. Irides green silvery colour, pupil dark.

64. LARUS FUSCUS?

65. LARUS RIDIBUNDUS?

66. LESTRIS CATARRHACTES?

67. PROCELLARIA GIGANTEA. A young bird.

68. PROCELLARIA CAPENSIS.

This beautiful, but well-known petrel, was, of course, our constant companion on all occasions of our being at sea, and was particularly numerous off the entrance to the river Plata, feeding probably upon the exuviæ that drift out with the current. One being taken with the hook, was killed, and in its entrails several small fragments of granite were found mixed with the half-digested food. A remarkable instance of the natural habits of this bird has lately come to my knowledge, which deserves to be recorded. The late Mr. George Fairfowl, surgeon R.N., on his return from New South Wales, in the year 1831, caught one of these birds, and let it go, with a ribbon tied round the body, by which it was easily distinguished; the bird was thereby observed to follow the ship, from day to day, for the space of 5,000 miles.

69. PROCELLARIA BERARDI.

70. PROCELLARIA WILSONII.--Prince of Musignano.

_Thalassidroma Wilsonnii_--Vigors.

71. DIOMEDEA EXULANS.

72. CYGNUS ANATOÏDES.

_Cygn. albus, remigibus primariis ad apicem nigris; rostro pedibusque rubris, illo lato, subdepresso, tuberculo nullo._

{542}

Interior Sounds on the west coast of Patagonia.

Molina describes a Chilian duck, _anas coscoroba_, thus: _A. rostro extremo dilatato rotundato_; _corpore albo_; but I do not think it can be the same as mine, or he would have noticed its red feet and bill. It certainly is not _A. candidus_, of Viellot; the _ganso blanco_ of D'Azara, which the author of the article in the Dict. d'Hist. Nat. xxiii. supposes to be the one and the same with _A. coscoroba_. Molina gives but a short description of that bird.

73. ANSER INORNATUS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Society.

_Mas. Ans. albus: dorso inferiori, caudâ, fasciis nuchæ dorsique superioris femorumque tectricum, pteromatibus, remigibusque atris: rostro nigro, pedibus flavescentibus._ Foem. _Capite colloque canis; dorso superiori corporeque inferiori albis, nigro confertim fasciatis; dorso imo remigibus, rectricibusque nigris; ptilis speculoque albis; tarsis subelongatis._

Strait of Magalhaens.

74. MICROPTERUS BRACHYPTERUS.--Quoy and Gaimard. Zool. de l'Uranie, pl. 39.

_Oidemia patachonica._--Nob. Zool. Journal, iv. 100. _Anas brachyptera._--Latham. Racehorse.--Cook.--Byron.

_Micropt. supra plumbeo-grisescens, abdomine albescente speculo alarum albo; rostro luteo; ungue nigro._

75. MICROPTERUS PATACHONICUS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_Micropt. supra plumbeo grisescens; gulâ scapularibusque rufescentibus; abdomine speculoque alarum albis; rostro virescenti-nigro, ungue nigro._

Smaller than _M. brachypterus_.

This bird having a smaller body than the first, is enabled to fly; which with the scapulars and the feathers of the throat being of a redder hue than those of _M. Brachypterus_, authorizes its being considered as specifically new.

76. ANAS NIGRICOLLIS.--Ind. Orn. ii. 834.

This bird has a wide range on the South American continent. It frequents the River Plata, Strait of Magalhaens, and several parts of the Western Coast, as far up as Chilóe. {543}

77. ANAS CHILOENSIS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Society.

_An. fronte, genis, abdomine, uropygio, pteromatibusque albis; capite posteriori, collo, dorso inferiori, ptilis, remigibusque primariis, caudâque fuscis; dorso superiori, pectoreque fusco et albo fasciatis; remigibus secundariis et tertiis scapularibusque nitidè atris, his albo lineatis; abdominis lateribus crissoque rufescentibus; strigâ post oculos, latâ splendidè purpurascenti-viride._

Length about 16 inches. Island of Chilóe.

78. ANAS FRETENSIS.--Nob. in Proceedings of Zool. Soc.

_An. gulâ, genis, collo, pectore, dorsoque anteriori pallidè badiis; collo graciliter undulato; pectore dorsoque anteriori atro maculato; dorso abdomineque imis, crisso, caudâque albis nigro fasciatis; dorsi fasciis latis, abdominis gracillimis, caudæ sublatioribus, crissi sparsim undulatis; capite supra, remigibus, scapularibusque virescenti-atris; his albo in medio lineatis; tectricibus plumbeo-canis, fasciâ apicali albâ; speculo supra viridi, deinde purpureo, fasciâ atrâ apice albo terminatâ._

_Statura Anatis creccoidis_, Nob.

Strait of Magalhaens.

79. ANAS RAFFLESII.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 97.

_An. castaneo-rufa, capite abdomineque medio saturatiorbus; notis dorsi, remigibus, caudâ supra, crissoque nigris; ptilis cæruleis, pteromatibus albis, speculo alarum viridi._

A figure of the bird is given in the supplementary plates of the Zool. Jour. Supp. XXIX.

Length, 20 inches.

Strait of Magalhaens, and Western coast to Chilóe.

This beautiful bird bears the name of the late Sir J. Stamford Raffles, to whose exertions the science of Zoology is under no trifling obligation.

80. ANAS SPECULARIS.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 98.

_An. capite summo, dorso, alis, caudâque nigris: subtus pallidè griseus, pectore brunneo undulato: speculo lato purpurascenti-aureo splendente, fasciâ atrâ alterâque albâ marginato: maculâ utrinque suboculari, mento, thoraceque albis._

The length of the bird is 26 inches; of the bill 2-3/8; of the wing, {544} from the carpal joint to the extremity of the second quill feather, 11; of the tail 6; of the _tarsi_ 2¼.

81. ANAS SPECULARIOIDES.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 98.

_An. capite summo corporeque supra fuscis: subtus pallidè griseus, pectore rufo-brunneo fasciato: remigibus, crisso, rectricibusque atris: speculo subangusto purpurascenti-aureo splendente, fasciâ atrâ, alterâque apicali albâ._

The length of the bird is 24 inches; of the bill 2-1/8; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the extremity of the second quill feather, 10½; of the tail 6; of the _tarsus_ 1½.

Strait of Magalhaens.

This is the common duck in the vicinity of Port Famine, and in the winter months is excellent eating.

82. ANAS CRECCOIDES.--Nob. in Zool. Jour. iv. 99.

_An. pallidè brunneo-griseus, fusco sparsus notatusque; dorso imo, ptilisque fuscis, his apice rufo; speculo nigro, fulvo marginato._

The length of the bird is 16½ inches; of the bill 1¾; of the wing, from the carpal joint to the extremity of the second quill feather, 8-3/16; of the tail 4-3/8; of the _tarsus_ 1¼.

* * * * *

{545}

SHELLS.

Description of the CIRRHIPEDA, CONCHIFERA, and MOLLUSCA, in a Collection formed by the Officers of H.M.S. Adventure and Beagle, employed between the years 1826 and 1830 in surveying the Southern Coasts of South America, including the Strait of Magalhaens and the coast of Tierra del Fuego. By Captain Phillip P. King, R.N., F.R.S., &c., assisted by W. J. Broderip, Esq., F.R.S., &c. (From the Zoological Journal.)

The testacea, of which the following paper is a descriptive list, were principally collected upon the coast of South America; and, upon my arrival in England, were submitted to the examination of Mr. George Sowerby; who very obligingly selected the undescribed species from the collection which had been formed under my superintendence by the Officers of H.M.S. Adventure and Beagle, employed under my command in surveying the southern coast of South America.

To these gentlemen I am greatly indebted for the unwearied assiduity which they at all times displayed, and for the extent of the collection in this, as well as in other departments of Natural History.

In the description of the species I have had the benefit of the advice and assistance of my friend Mr. Broderip; and to his knowledge of the subject, and the attention which he has devoted to my collection, I owe in a great measure the paper which I have now the satisfaction of presenting to the public through the medium of the Zoological Journal.

Upon examining my specimens, Mr. George Sowerby found that he possessed several species not in my collection. These had been obtained during the voyage, and had been purchased from some of the crew by Mr. Sowerby, who handsomely put his acquisitions into my hands for description.

1. BALANUS PSITTACUS.

Syn. Lepas Psittacus. Molina, 1., 223.

_B. testâ albido-rosaceâ, subconicâ, elongatâ, rudi, longitudinaliter creberrimè striatâ; radiis transversim striatis; operculo transversìm {546} profundè sulcato, lineis elevatis creberrimè plicatis; valvis posticis valdè productis, acuminatis._

_Habitat ad oras Concepçionis et insulam Chilóe. Mus. Brit., nost., Broderip, &c._

This cirrhiped which, at Concepçion de Chile, is frequently found of a larger size than 5½ inches long and 3½ in diameter, forms a very common and highly esteemed food of the natives, by whom it is called _Pico_, from the acuminated processes of the two posterior opercular valves. The anterior and posterior opercular valves, when in contact, present some resemblance to a parrot's beak, whence Molina's name. It is also found very abundantly at Valdivia and at Calbuco, near the north end of the island of Chilóe. It occurs in large bunches, and presents somewhat of a cactus-like appearance. The parent is covered by its progeny, so that large branches are found composed of from fifty to one hundred distinct individuals, each of which becomes in its turn the foundation of another colony. One specimen in the possession of my friend W. J. Broderip, Esq., consists of a numerous group based on two large individuals. They are collected by being chopped off with a hatchet. At Concepçion, where they are found of larger size than to the southward, they are principally procured at the Island of Quiriquina, which lies across the entrance of the bay; whence they are exported in large quantities to Valparaiso and Santiago de Chile, where they are considered as a great delicacy, and indeed with some justice, for the flesh equals in richness and delicacy that of the crab, which, when boiled and eaten cold, it very much resembles.

2. ELMINIUS LEACHII.[213]

_E. testâ albidâ, truncatâ, longitudinaliter striatâ, radiis creberrimè longitudinaliter substriatis; operculo ad basin transversim striato, quadripartito; long. 5/8; lat. 3/8; poll._

_Habitat._ _In Museo Geo. Sowerby et nost._

3. SCALPELLUM PAPILLOSUM.

_S. pedunculo creberrimè papilloso; testâ lævi valdè compressâ; long. omnino 11/16; 4/16 pedunculi; lat. 5/16, poll._

{547}

_Habitat in mare alto circa oras Patagonicas. Mus. nost., G. Sowerby._

Taken by a dredge in 40 fathom water, off the coast of South America, in latitude 44½° south, and found adhering to a Terebella.

4. PHOLAS CHILOENSIS. MOLINA.

_P. testâ elongatâ posticè ovato-rotundatâ, costis posticis dentato-muricatis; anticè attenuatâ striis transversis posticè undato-muricatis, anticè muticis; lat. 5: long. 2; poll._

_Habitat ad insulam Chiloei. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod., Stokes._

Some doubt has been thrown upon the existence of this shell, notwithstanding the description of Molina. A species very nearly approaching it, if not identical, was found at Rio de Janeiro; but as only single valves were obtained, and these were in a very imperfect state, I have not ventured to characterise it.

The soft parts of _Pholas Chiloensis_ are considered very delicate by the inhabitants of the Island of Chilóe, by whom the animal is called "_Co-mes_." They are found in great abundance at low water imbedded in the rocks near Sandy Point, at San Carlos de Chilóe.

5. SOLEN SCALPRUM.

_S. testâ lineari subrectâ extremitatibus subrotundatis; cardine bidentato; long. 13/16; lat. 3-11/16; poll._

_Habitat ad Patagoniæ oras Orientates_ (Sea Bear Bay). _Mus. nost._

6. ANATINA ELLIPTICA.

_A. testâ ellipticâ, subtenui, transversim striató, anticè sub-truncatâ, epidermide fuscâ, tenui; long. 1-3/8; lat. 2-3/8; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Antarcticas_ (New South Shetland). _Mus. Brit., nost._

This shell was found at New South Shetland, by Lieutenant Kendall, of his Majesty's sloop, Chanticleer, by whom it was presented to me.

7. MACTRA EDULIS.

_M. testâ subtrigonâ, tumidâ, sublævi, fulvo-squalidâ, intus albâ, dentibus lateralibus prominentibus; long. 2; lat. 2-4/8; poll._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico_ (Port Famine). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

This shell was found in great abundance on the flat of sandy mud, which fronts the west shore of Port Famine, and proved a {548} valuable article of food to the ship's company, particularly during the winter months, when sea-birds and game were not to be procured, and the fish had deserted us. I have named it, in allusion to its affording us a grateful, as well as seasonable, supply of fresh food.

8. ERYCINA SOLENOIDES.

_E. testâ subellipticâ, transversim creberrimè substriatâ, albidâ, epidermide fusco-griseâ; long. 1 paulo minus; lat. 2; poll._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico_ (sandy mud flats of Port Famine). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

9. TELLINIDES ROSACEA.

_T. testâ subtrigonâ, planulatâ, striis concentricis creberrimis; long. 6/8; lat. 1-5/16; poll._

_Habitat ad littora Brasiliæ_ (Santos). _Mus. nost._

10. VENUS INFLATA.

_V. testârotundatâ, concentricè substriatâ, albente, intus albâ, lunulâ obsoletâ; long. 1-9/16; lat. 1-5/8; poll._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico_ (Port Famine). _Mus. nost._

11. VENUS ANTIQUA.

_V. testâ sub-ovali, convexiusculâ, creberrimè cancellatâ, sub-fuscâ, intus albidâ; lunulâ cordatâ; long. 2-5/8; lat. 3; poll._

_Obs. in junioribus, striis transversis concentricis elevatis, acutis._

_Habitat ad littora occidentalia Patagoniæ_ (Gulf of Peñas and its vicinity). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

12. ARCA ANGULATA.

_A. testâ transversâ, subcordato-quadratâ, intus fusco-violascente; latere antico producto, elevato, undulatim lamellato, postico rotundato; umbonibus valdè remotis, areâ cardinali maximâ, striatâ; margine hiante; long. 1-1/8; lat. 1-7/8; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Juan Fernandez. _Mus. nost._

This shell was dredged up from 80 fathoms water in the offing of Cumberland Bay, at Juan Fernandez; it was attached to a branch of coral.

The hinge is broad and smooth, with distinct markings; the gape is rather wide, and the anterior part of the shell rises rather elegantly, like the stern of some Indian canoes, and in all the specimens but one, terminates in a point. The one above {549} described has a rounded form; the bows or front being rather elegantly and finely lamellated in a wavy form; the colour of the hinge is red, and the inside is generally of a brownish purple; in some it has a more yellow tinge.

13. ARCA PECTINOIDES.

_A. testâ auriculatâ, cordatâ, ventricosâ, multi-costatâ, transversim striatâ, albâ, epidermide rufo nigricante, pilosâ; umbonibus sub-approximatis, incurvatis, margine crenulato; long. 1; lat. 1-2/8; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Rio de Janeiro. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

14. NUCULA STRIATA.

_N. testâ striatâ, subtumidâ, crassâ, sub-trigonâ, albâ; latere antico productiori, sub-rostrato; long. 9/32; lat. 3/8; poll._

_Habitat in mari alto circa oras Patagonicas. Mus. nost._

Taken by a dredge in 40 fathoms water, 20 miles from the coast of South America, in the neighbourhood of Port Sta Elena.

15. MODIOLA SINUOSA.

_M. testâ ventricosâ, subovatâ, longitudinaliter striatâ; intus iridescente, margine sinuoso, epidermide fuscâ; long. 7/16; lat. 14/16 fere; poll._

_Habitat ad littora Brasiliæ_ (Santos). _Mus. nost._

16. PECTEN PATACHONICUS.

_P. testâ sub-æquivalvi, brunneâ, longitudinaliter creberrimè elevato-radiatâ; intus albidâ, longitudinaliter sub-radiatâ; long. 2-4/8; lat. 2-4/8; poll._

_Obs. auribus inæqualibus._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico passim. Mus. nost._

17. PECTEN VITREUS.

_P. testâ subæquivalvi, translucente, longitudinaliter multi-sulcatâ; sulcis convexis flavidulis, valvâ inferiore pallidiori; long. 1-9/16; lat. 1-4/8; poll._

_Obs. Auribus inæqualibus._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico passim. Mus. nost._

This shell is found attached to the leaves of the _Fucus giganteus_, and, with other _Mollusca_, is the food of the Steamer or Race-horse Duck (_Micropterus brachypterus and M. Patachonicus_). {550}

18. TEREBRATULA FLEXUOSA.

_T. testâ rotundato-cordatâ, gibbâ, sub-fuscâ, longitudinaliter creberrimè sulcatâ; margine valdè flexuoso; long. 1-3/8; lat. 1-4/8 paulo minus; poll._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico_ (Port Famine). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

This shell, which was dredged up from deep water in the bay of Port Famine, attached to stones, is not a common shell in the Strait.

19. TEREBRATULA SOWERBII.

_T. testâ subrotundâ, planiusculâ, subfuscâ, longitudinaliter radiatim transversim substriatâ, medio supernè depressâ, infra convexâ, subglabrâ; margine utrinque crenulato, medio glabro; long. 1-7/16; lat. 7/16 paulo plus; alt. 11/16 poll._

_Habitat in freto Magellanico. Mus. nost., Geo. Sowerby._

20. CHITON SETIGER.

_C. testâ ovali, anticé subattenuatâ; valvis subdentatis, tenuiter concentricè striatis, anticâ 10-radiatâ, posticâ lævi, parvulâ; areis lateralibus striis duabus elevatis marginalibus; ligamento marginali lævigato, setigero; long. 2-3/8; lat. 1-3/8; poll._

_Habitat ad oras insulæ_ Tierra del Fuego _et in freto Magellanico. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

Shell ovate, rather attenuated towards the anterior end, generally of a light blue-green colour, variegated with markings of dark slate. Valves slightly beaked with minute concentric striæ, the lateral compartments with two marginal ridges, which in some specimens are granulose, in others smooth. The anterior valve has eight, besides two marginal, ridges of the same character; the posterior valve is very small and smooth. Border coriaceous, and set with bristles produced from three rows of tufts or pores. In some of the specimens in my possession the bristles are rubbed off.

The shell is found in all parts of the shores of Tierra del Fuego, particularly on its seaward coast, and the western parts of the Strait of Magalhaens.

21. CHITON BOWENII.

_C. testâ oblongo-ovatâ, castaneo-rufâ; dorso elevato; valvis subdentatis, sublævibus concentricè tenuiter striatis; areis lateralibus radiatim sulcatis; ligamento marginali granuloso, nigro; long. 3-2/8; lat. 1½; poll._

{551}

_Habitat ad oras insulæ_ Tierra del Fuego _et in freto Magellanico. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

Shell oblong-ovate, and generally of a chestnut red, and the granulose ligament black; the colour of the younger specimens is more brilliant, and sometimes interspersed with yellow. Middle valves slightly toothed, and very delicately lineated, the lines forming an obtuse angle in the direction of the axis of the shell; the lateral compartments are marked with deeper striæa or grooves, radiating from the upper angle to the base, which, crossing the transverse markings of the valve, have a reticulated appearance: the anterior and posterior valves are radiated with fine lines.

This Chiton was discovered by Mr. Bowen, surgeon of the Beagle, by whom it was presented to me. The specimen was sent home among a collection of Natural History, transmitted in the year 1827.

22. FISSURELLA COARCTATA.

_F. testâ ovatâ, anticé attenuatâ, elevatâ; radiis frequentibus elevatis; internè virescenti; foraminis margine externo juxta medium coarctato, subdentato; long 2-5/16; lat. 1-13/16; alt. 14/16; poll._

_Habitat ad Portum_ Praya. _Mus. Brit., nost._

23. HELIX TRANSLUCENS.

_H. testâ subglobosâ, translucente, levissimè transversim striatâ; anfractu basali lineâ longitudinali castaneâ sub-mediâ ornato; long. 17/32; lat. 9/16; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Rio de Janeiro. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

24. HELIX PUSIO.

_H. testâ rotundo-complanatâ, creberrimè striatâ, translucente, maculis castaneo-rufis ornatâ; long. 1/16; lat. 3/16; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Juan Fernandez. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

25. HELICINA SORDIDA.

_H. testâ globoso-conoideâ; anfractibus rotundatis longitudinaliter striatis; operculo castaneo; long. 2/8 paulo plus; lat 5/16 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Rio de Janeiro. _Mus. Brit., nost._

The colour of this shell is of a dirty yellowish white, with a slight tinge of diaphanous violet within the margin of the lip.

26. PUPA SUBDIAPHANA.--No. 194. MSS.

_P. testâ cylindraceâ, albâ, subdiaphanâ, transversim creberrimè substriatâ; long. 4/8 paulo minus; lat. 3/16 paulo minus; poll._

{552}

_Habitat ad Portum_ Praya. (Cape Verd Islands.) _Mus. Brit., nost._

27. BULINUS GRAVESII.

_B. testâ subventricosâ, longitudinaliter subrugosâ, sub-albidâ, fusco-maculatâ, spirâ longitudinaliter striatâ; long. 1-4/8; lat. 13/16 paulo minus; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Valparaiso. _Mus. nost._

I have named the shell after my shipmate and friend, Lieutenant Thomas Graves, whose zeal and assiduity in assisting and increasing my collections of Natural History was as unwearied as the alacrity and ability which he displayed in the primary and more important objects of the voyage, of which, in his Majesty's ship Adventure, he filled the appointment of assistant surveyor. To Lieutenant Graves I am principally indebted for my land-shells, and I therefore take the opportunity of recording the valuable assistance he rendered me during the whole period of his serving under my command.

28. BULINUS GRAVESII, var.

_B. testâ subpyramidali, scabrâ, albidâ, aliquando lineolis raris; epidermide lutescente; long. 1-9/16; lat. 11/16 paulo plus. poll._

_Habitat ad_ Valparaiso. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

This is certainly a variety of No. 27, Bulinus Gravesii.

29. BULINUS DENTATUS.

_B. testâ cylindraceâ, punctatâ, sub-diaphanâ, fusco maculatâ; aperturâ dentatâ, clausiliam mentiente; long. 15/16; lat. 5/16; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Brasiliæ_ (St. Catherine). _Mus. Brit., nost._

30. BULINUS LUTESCENS.--No. 140. MSS.

_B. testâ obovatâ, ventricosâ, subscabrâ, lutescente; long. 1-1/8; lat. 11/16; poll._

_Habitat ad Maldonado_ (Gorriti). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

31. BULINUS CORRUGATUS.--No. 941 MSS.

_B. testâ subalbidâ, transversim et longitudinaliter rugoso-striatâ, maculis fuscis, obsoletis; aperturâ purpurascente; columellâ nigricante purpureâ; long. 1-6/8 paulo plus; lat. 13/16; poll._

_Habitat ad_ Concepcion. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

The body-whorl of the older specimens of this shell is rather roughly striated or wrinkled, the last but one slightly so, and the remaining whorls are quite smooth. The colour is whitish, with {553} purple spots more or less obsolete: the old specimens are sometimes of a dull yellowish white. A specimen is deposited in the British Museum.

The young shells of this species are of a whitish brown, with darker coloured striæ. They are very fragile and semi-transparent.

32. BULINUS SORDIDUS.--No. 803 MSS.

_B. testâ pyramidali, transversim striatâ, fuscâ; anfractu basali ad suturam subalbido, lineâ subcentricâ pallidâ; labii vix reflexi margine albo; long. 1-15/16; lat. 7/8 poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliam_ (Rio de Janeiro). _Mus. nost._

33. BULINUS MULTICOLOR.[214]--No. 791 MSS.

_B. testâ ovato-pyramidali, longitudinaliter et transversim creberrimè substriatâ, luteo-fuscâ maculis albis et purpureo-atris fucatâ; labio roseo subreflexo; columellâ subalbidâ, aperturâ intus subatropurpureâ; long. 1-5/16; lat. 9/16; poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliam. Mus. nost., Geo. Sowerby._

33.* BULINUS ROSACEUS.

_B. testâ ovato-oblongâ, scabriusculâ; apice et anfractibus primis, rosaceis, cæteris viridi-fuscis; labro albo; suturis crenulatis seu plicatis; long. 2-1/8; lat. 1; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis_ (Chile). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod., Geo. Sowerby, &c._

Soon after the return of the expedition, my friend Mr. Broderip, to whose inspection Lieutenant Graves had submitted his collection, observing symptoms of life in some of the shells of this species, took means for reviving the inhabitants from their dormant state, and succeeded. After they had protruded their bodies, they were placed upon some green leaves, which they fastened upon and ate greedily. These animals had been in this state for seventeen or eighteen months, and five months subsequently another was found alive in my collection, so that this last had been nearly two years {554} dormant. The shells were all sent to Mr. Loddige's nursery, where they lived for eight months, when they unfortunately all died within a few days of each other. Soon after the shells were first deposited at Mr. Loddige's, one got away, and escaped detection for several months, until it was at last discovered in a state of hybernation; it was removed to the place where the others were kept, when it died also. The upper surface of the animal when in health is variegated with ruddy spots and streaks on an ash-coloured ground.

34. PARTULA FLAVESCENS.

_P. testâ subfusiformi, pallide flavâ, interdum castaneâ vel flavo et castaneo variâ; long. 11/16; lat. 5/16 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis_ (Valparaiso). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

This shell varies in its colour almost as much as _Bulinus citrinus_.

35. ACHATINA DONELLII.--No. 413 MSS.

_A. testâ subalbidâ, transversim substriatâ, anfractu basali ventricosâ; long. 7/16 paulo plus; lat. 2/8; poll._

_Habitat ad Lima._ _Mus. nost._

36. ACHATINA DIAPHANA.

_A. testâ subcylindraceâ, diaphanâ, transversim striatâ; long. 5/16; lat. 5/32; poll._

_Habitat ad insulam_ Juan Fernandez, _in montibus._ _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

37. ACHATINA STRIGATA.--No. 462 MSS.

_A. testâ diaphanâ, subalbidâ, creberrimè transversim substriatâ, strigis longitudinalibus castaneis raris; anfractu basali subangulato; long. 11/16 paulo plus; lat. 6/16 paulo minus; poll._

_Habitat in paludibus Brasiliæ_ (Santo Paulo). _Mus. nost._

38. ACHATINA SORDIDA.--No. 798 MSS.

_A. testâ subdiaphanâ, subconicâ, anfractu basali ventricoso; long. 6/8 paulo plus; lat. 3/8 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliam_ (Rio de Janeiro). _Mus. nost._

39. ACHATINA SELLOVII.

_A. testâ cylindraceâ transversim striatâ subdiaphanâ; long. 5/16; lat. 2/16; poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliam_ (St. Catherine). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

This shell, which I found at the city of Nossa Sen^a. de Estero, {555} I have dedicated to my friend, Dr. Sellow, whose researches in Natural History for several years past in the interior of Brazil, are well known to the scientific world.

40. SUCCINEA FRAGILIS.

_S. testâ ovato-acutâ, diaphanâ, ventricosâ, transversim striatâ, obliquè subrugosâ; spirâ brevi; long. 9/16 paulo minus; lat. 6/16; poll._

_Habitat ad insulam_ Juan Fernandez. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

41. SUCCINEA PATULA.

_S. testâ diaphanâ, ovato-rotundatâ, ventricosissimâ, transversim creberrimè striatâ; spirâ brevissimâ; aperturâ patulâ; long. 4/8 paulo plus; lat. 3/8 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat ad insulam_ Juan Fernandez.

MARINULA. _Nov. Genus._

_Character Genericus._

_Testâ ovato-productâ, sub-solidâ; aperturâ ovatâ, integrâ; columellâ bidentatâ, et basin versus uniplicatâ; dentibus magnis sub-remotis conniventibus, superiore maximo; operculum nullum._

42. MARINULA PEPITA.

_M. testâ ovato-productâ, viridi-fuscâ; anfractibus sub-tumidis; spirâ brevi; aperturâ nigricante; dentibus plicâque albidis; long. 7/16; lat. 4/16; poll._

_Habitat ad insulam_ Chilóe. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod., G. Sowerby_.

This animal, which I have thought it necessary to assign to a new genus, appears to have for its nearest neighbours the genera Auricula and Pedipes. It was found on the wooden piles which support the mole in the Bay of San Carlos, in Chilóe, below the wash of the high water. The mole stands out into the sea, and there is no fresh water near it, save a very little rill, which discharges its tiny stream more than fifty yards off.

43. LYMNÆA DIAPHANA.--No. 349 MSS.

_L. testâ turritâ, transversim substriatâ, anfractibus ventricosis; long. 11/16; paulo plus; lat. 5/16; poll._

_Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum_ (Cape Gregory). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

This shell was found in the fresh-water ponds in the neighbourhood of Cape Gregory, which is on the continental side of the eastern end of the Strait of Magalhaens. {556}

44. AMPULLARIA CUMINGII.

_A. testâ globosâ, transversim striatâ, subalbidâ, longitudinaliter castaneo-lineatâ et fasciatâ, epidermide virescente; umbilico parvo; lat. 1-7/16; long. 1-6/16; poll._

_Habitat in Sinu Panamæ_; (island of Saboga, in a small hill-stream). _Mus. Brit, nost., Brod._

From Mr. Cuming's collection. I have named this shell after Mr. Cuming, from whom I received it.

45. NATICA GLOBOSA.

_N. testâ globosâ, tenui, ventricosissimâ, corneâ, vel subalbidâ, subtilissimè striatâ; spirâ brevi; umbilico parvo; operculo valdè tenui; long. 15/16 paulo plus; lat. 7/8; poll._

_Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum_ (Cape Gregory). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

46. NATICA CASTANEA.

_N. testâ ovato-acutâ castaneâ, albo-lineatâ; aperturâ mediocri; columellâ valdè callosâ; umbilico mediocri; long. 13/16; lat. 21/32; poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliæ; oras, circa_ Santos. _Mus. nost._

47. TURBO LUGUBRIS.

_T. testâ nigricante, striatâ; aperturâ argenteâ; labri margine nigrâ, subcrenulatâ; operculo valdè lapidoso, albo; long. 2-1/8; lat. 2-2/8 fere; poll._

_Habitat ad Sinum_ Peñas. _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

48. ODONTIS SUBPLICATA.

_O. testâ granuloso-striatâ, viridi-fuscâ, nigro maculatâ; umbilico mediocri; labri margine sub-plicato; long. 10/16; lat. 13/16 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliam_ (Rio de Janeiro). _Mus. Brit., nost._

49. LITTORINA FLAVA.

_L. testâ longitudinaliter striatâ, sub-flavâ; spirâ brevi; anfractu basali ventricoso; columellæ purpurascentis margine et aperturâ sub-flavâ; operculo nigricante; long. 5/8 paulo plus; lat. 7/16 poll._

_Habitat ad Brasiliam_ (Rio de Janeiro). _Mus. Brit., nost._

In young shells there are a few obscure reddish brown streaks crossing the striæ.

50. LITTORINA PERDIX.

_L. testâ striis elevatis balteatâ, albidâ, fusco-maculatâ, striis interstitialibus minus elevatis, ambabus sub-cancellatis; aperturâ albâ, {557} labri margine tenui, castaneo-maculatâ; long. 13/16; lat. 17/32 poll._

_Habitat? Mus. nost._

51. LITTORINA STRIATA.

_L. testâ ovato-conicâ, fuscâ, striis elevatis scabrâ; spirâ brevi; anfractu basali tumido; aperturâ nigricante, basin versus strigâ luteoalbâ ornatâ; labri margine crenulato albo-fulvido; operculo nigro; long. 4/8 paulo plus; lat. 7/16 ferè; poll._

_Habitat in Mari Atlantico boreali_ (Port Praya). _Mus. Brit., nost._

52. MARGARITA FASCIATA, n. s.

_M. testâ albidâ, creberrimè striatâ, purpureo fasciatâ, aperturâ argenteâ; long. 4/16; lat. 5/16 ferè; poll._

_Habitat in Mari Pacifico. Mus. nost._

Portions of the striated surface are elevated into belts, which are of a purple colour.

53. MARGARITA VIOLACEA.

_M. testâ sub-ovatâ, violaceâ, spirâ brevi; anfractibus tumidis; aperturâ iridescente; long. 7/16; lat. 8/16 fere; poll._

_Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

Of this shell the Indians make their necklaces; it is found adhering to the leaves of the Fucus giganteus, and is the principal food of the Steamer or Racehorse Duck (_Micropterus Patachonicus_, nob. in Proceedings of the Zoological Society, December 14, 1830, page 15).

54. MARGARITA COERULESCENS.

_M. testâ sub-complanatâ, coeruleâ, striatâ, albido-lineatâ, aperturâ iridescente; lat. 13/16 ferè; long. 15/16; poll._

_Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

55. TURRITELLA TRICARINATA.

_T. testâ turritâ, anfractibus tricarinatis; carinis nodulosis; long. 1-5/8; lat. 9/16 paulo minus; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis_ (Valparaiso). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

The _Carinæ_ are nodulous, or twisted like the strands of a rope; the twists of the upper _carina_ are in the direction of a water-laid, {558} or right-handed rope, and those of the two lower _carinæ_ are in the opposite direction, or like what is termed a hawser-laid rope. Between these nodulous _carinæ_ are elevated lines, and the base is very strongly striated. Found in deep water in the Bay of Valparaiso. Dead shells of this species are occasionally found thrown upon the beach, near the Almendral.

56. TURRITELLA NODULOSA.

_T. testâ elongato-turritâ; anfractibus striatis; striis duabus maximis subnodulosis; long. 1-11/16; lat. 7/16 fere; poll._

_Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost._

The two large _striæ_, which are remarkable for the nodules, are not far from the middle of each whorl, and generally are nearer the upper suture: of these the lowest is the largest.

57. MUREX SALEBROSUS.

_M. testâ elongato-ovatâ, subalbidâ, fasciis fuscis, epidermide cinereâ; spirâ brevi; anfractibus angulatis, nodulosis; aperturâ oblongâ ad basin angustâ, castaneâ, intus albâ; labro internè denticulato, dentibus obtusis albis; columellâ rectâ, lævi; canali brevi; long. 3-7/16; lat. 2; poll._

_Habitat? Mus. nost., Geo. Sowerby._

This species approaches _Murex vitulinus_ very nearly; the body-whorl is very much elongated, and the nodules which mark the angles of the whorl are formed of the more elevated parts of what may be termed coarse longitudinal plaits.

58. MUREX RHODOCHEILUS.

_M. testâ ventricosâ, albâ, fasciis elevatis striatis; septemfariam varicosâ, varicibus roseis denticulatis; aperturâ rotundatâ, roseâ, intus albidâ; labri margine asperrimè denticulato; caudâ mediocri, sub-recurvâ; long. 3-13/16; lat. 2-7/16; poll._

_Habitat? Mus. nost._

59. TRITON RANELLIFORMIS.

_T. testâ ovato-fusiformi, subdepressâ, albidâ fusco fasciatâ, costatâ; costis granulosis, interstitiis striatis; aperturâ subrotundâ, albidâ; columellâ subrugosâ; labro internè obtusè denticulato; margine undulato; epidermide viridi-fuscâ, scabrâ; long. 3-3/16; lat. 1-6/8; poll._

_Habitat ad Sinum Peñas et oram occidentalem Americæ meridionalis. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

{559}

The denticules of the outer lip are ranged in pairs, at regular and somewhat distant intervals.

60. TRITON SCABER.

_T. testâ ovato-acutâ, cancellatâ; spirâ elongatâ; epidermide fuscâ, setosâ; aperturâ albâ granulosâ; labro interne obtusè denticulato; long.; lat.; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis_ (Valparaiso). _Mus. nost._

The denticules of the inner lip are more elevated than those of the last (T. ranelliformis), and are equidistant. It was fished up with the anchor in Valparaiso Bay.

61. MONOCEROS FUSOIDES.

_M. testâ ventricosâ, spirâ mediocri, anfractibus bicarinatis; anfractu basali lineis elevatis admodum distantibus cincto; aperturâ patulâ; dente labiali brevi, lato, obtuso; canali producto, recto, integro; operculo corneo; long. 2¾; lat. 1-5/8; poll._

_Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis_ (Concepcion). _Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

Approaching Fusus in its elongated and entire canal, while its exterior lip has the labial tooth which distinguishes _Monoceros_. The columella is not straight, as in all the other species, but curved, so as to make an angle in some specimens at the commencement of the canal, and in all it becomes very broad at the point where it is opposite to the tooth. The shell is of a reddish colour, ventricose, and girt with elevated lines, about a quarter of an inch apart. The spire has only two of these lines on each whorl, and has a bicarinated appearance. The aperture is wide, the outer lip sinuous, its tooth short, broad, and obtuse, and the operculum horny. The shell is seldom found in a perfect state, the beak being generally broken off, and the surface is, in all the specimens that I have seen, covered with a calcareous encrustation, entirely concealing the colours.

62. BUCCINUM MURICIFORME.

_B. testâ ovato-fusiformi, cinereâ; anfractibus tumidis, costellatis, costellis cancellatis; aperturâ castaneo-nigricante; labri margine crenulato. Muricem mentiens; long. 1; lat. 9/16; poll._

_Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

The eggs of this species were found, and are preserved in spirits.

{560}

63. BUCCINUM SQUALIDUM.

_B. testâ conico-fusiformi, fuscâ; anfractu basali ventricoso; spirâ mediocri; aperturâ fuscâ, lutescenti, patulâ; long. 1-15/16; lat. 1-1/8; poll._

_Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

64. BUCCINUM DEFORME.

_B. testa ovatâ, subponderosâ, subalbidâ, fasciis duabus fuscis obscuris; spirâ brevi; anfractu basali subdepresso, suturam versus crasso; columellâ valdè callosâ; long. 1-9/16; lat. 1 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat ad flumen Plata_ (Gorriti). _Mus. Brit., nost._

The eggs of this shell, contained in a transparent orbicular nidus, the size of a turtle's egg, were found thrown up on the sea-beach of the island. In the month of January they were observed in all stages of growth. A series was preserved in spirits, and presented to the College of Surgeons.

65. COLUMBELLA MITRIFORMIS.

_C. testâ fusiformi, luteo-rufescente, fasciis nigro-castaneis, maculis albis tessellatâ; long. 7/16; lat. 3/16; poll._

_Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost., Brod._

66. MITRA PUSILLA.

_M. testâ ovato-acutâ, ventricosâ, fulvâ, creberrimè costatâ; costis interstitiisque striatis, basi granulosâ; spirâ brevi, anfractibus suturam supereminentibus; columellâ quinque-plicatâ; long. 5/8; lat. 5/16 paulo plus; poll._

_Habitat? Mus. nost._

The denticules of the outer lip are arranged in pairs, at regular, and somewhat distant, intervals.

67. VOLUTA.

A fragment of a turbinated shell, bearing marks more assignable to Voluta than to any other genus, was found on the sea-beach in the neighbourhood of Cape Fairweather, on the east coast of Patagonia, in latitude 51½° south. The remains appear to differ from _Voluta Ancilla_ and _V. Brasiliana_.

* * * * *

{561}

COPIES OF ORDERS.

His Majesty's surveying vessel Adventure, Sea Bear Bay.

SIR; 27th March 1829.

It is my direction, that when finally parting company from me, you proceed to the execution of the following orders, in company with the Adelaide schooner, the commander of which, upon our meeting him, will receive instructions to put himself under your command.

You will, as soon as possible, make the best of your way to Port Famine, stopping at Pecket Harbour to communicate with the Indians, should they be there, for the purpose of securing a supply of guanaco meat for the ship's company.

At Port Famine you will immediately detach Lieutenant Skyring, with a boat and boat's crew, in the Adelaide, to co-operate with Lieutenant Graves in surveying the Magdalen Channel and its communication with the sea; after which you will direct him to rejoin you, by the Barbara Channel, at Port Gallant, whither you will proceed, after completing your water at Port Famine; on your way to which, if you should have an opportunity, the following bays, on the south side of the Strait, might be planned, viz. Lyell Bay, Cascade Bay, San Pedro Bay, and Freshwater Bay (or Cove). The coast also to the west of the Barbara Channel, behind the islands of Charles and Ulloa, should be examined; and of the northern arm of the Jerome Channel, called in the chart, Indian Sound, we know nothing.

If, after the return of the Adelaide, you should find the weather so favourable as to permit your extending your exploration of those parts of the Strait which are yet unknown to us, you will remain for that purpose; but, at all events, you are to leave the Strait by the middle of June, or the first of July at latest, and repair with the Adelaide to San Carlos, at the north end of Chilóe, where you will find or hear of me, by the 10th of August. {562}

In performing the above orders you will act as you may consider best for their most effectual execution, keeping in mind that the most desirable part is the survey of the Magdalen Channel.

From our experience, last year, of the weather during the months of April and May, I am in hopes of your being able to work during those months, with success; but should you meet with bad weather, you will be most careful in not exposing your people unnecessarily to the severity of the climate.

Upon detaching the Adelaide you will appoint Lieutenant Skyring to the superintendence of the service upon which she is sent, giving Lieutenant Graves instructions to that effect accordingly.

I have, &c. (Signed) PHILLIP PARKER KING, Commander and Senior Officer.

* * * * *

His Majesty's surveying sloop Beagle, Port Famine.

SIR; April 19, 1829.

In obedience to the orders I have received from Commander Phillip Parker King, senior officer of the Expedition for the survey of a part of South America, it is my direction that you proceed immediately, in the Adelaide schooner, to survey as much of the Magdalen Channel and the Strait or Channel of Santa Barbara as you find practicable at this season of the year.

If, in the execution of this service, you should find the season too much advanced to proceed without much risk to the vessel, or exposing yourself and the men to much bad weather, you will give up the design, and hasten to Port Gallant.

Should the Beagle not be in Port Gallant at your return, and no letter left for you in a bottle, you will wait there one week, and then return to Port Famine. At all events, you will endeavour to rejoin the Beagle before the first week in June has ended.

I have, &c. (Signed) ROBERT FITZ-ROY, Commander.

To Lieut. Wm. Geo. Skyring, His Majesty's sloop Beagle.

* * * * *

{563}

SIR; Beagle, Port Famine, 19th April 1829.

In obedience to the orders I have received from Captain King, it is my direction that you put yourself under the orders of Lieut. Skyring, and proceed with him as he may think best for the execution of the service upon which he is ordered, and in which you will give him every assistance that you can afford.

Mr. Kirke, with a boat and boat's crew, will be sent to assist you.

I have, &c. (Signed) ROBERT FITZ-ROY, Commander.

To Lieut. Thos. Graves, Commanding His Majesty's schooner Adelaide.

* * * * *

SIR; Beagle, Port Gallant, 19th June 1829.

It is my direction that you put yourself under the orders of Lieutenant Skyring, and co-operate with him in the execution of the service on which he is about to be employed.

Mr. Kirke, with a boat and five men, will be sent to assist.

I have, &c. (Signed) ROBERT FITZ-ROY.

To Lieut. Thos. Graves, Commander. His Majesty's schooner Adelaide.

* * * * *

SIR; Beagle, Port Gallant, June 19th 1829.

It is my direction that as soon as you consider the rates of the chronometer on board the Adelaide sufficiently settled, you proceed in her to search for, and, if practicable at this season of the year, survey such part of the passage which is supposed to lead from the vicinity of Cape Tamar to Concepcion Strait and the Gulf of Trinidad, as your time and provisions will allow.

Your chief object will be to open a passage from Cape Three Points to Cape Tamar, between the mass of islands which lie between those capes. {564}

When to the northward of Cape Tamar, and before reaching as far north as Oracion Bay, or the latitude of 52° 6', should you notice an opening to the eastward, with a current or stream of tide setting through it, and an appearance of its joining another body of water, of considerable extent, you will endeavour to ascertain whether it communicates with the Skyring Water, provided that, in so doing you do not turn from your chief object more than a few days.

In the execution of the above orders you will act as you may consider best for the service of his Majesty; and if, at any time before its completion, you find your provisions getting short, the climate too severe, or yourself, or those under your orders, in bad health, you will immediately make the best of your way to Chilóe.

You will endeavour to be at San Carlos, in the island of Chilóe, before the 20th of September, and will let nothing that can be avoided detain you beyond that time.

I have, &c. (Signed) ROBERT FITZ-ROY, Commander.

To Lieutenant Wm. Geo. Skyring, His Majesty's sloop Beagle.

* * * * *

By Phillip Parker King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel Adventure, and Senior Officer of an Expedition for the survey of a part of South America.

As soon as you shall have completed the rates of your chronometers and be otherwise ready, it is my direction that you proceed to sea in His Majesty's sloop under your command, to survey the sea-coast of Tierra del Fuego, from Cape Pillar to the east entrance of the Strait of Magellan, in the progressive examination of which you will be guided by the state of the weather, and other circumstances, keeping in view that the most interesting part of the coast is that portion between Christmas Sound and the Strait Le Maire, particularly the openings of New Year Sound and Nassau Bay, and the openings to the eastward of the latter as far as New Island; as there is reason to believe that there is a considerable body of water to the eastward of the termination of Admiralty {565} Sound, communicating with the sea by some one if not many openings in the neighbourhood of Nassau Bay, and with an outlet on the N.E. coast (St. Sebastian Channel); and as the existence of such a strait would be of the greatest importance to small vessels bound to the westward round Cape Horn, you will see it fitting not to spend so much time to the westward of Cape Noir as may in the least impede the determination of the question, or prevent it being completely explored. It is my intention to be at Port Famine by the 1st of April, and at Rio de Janeiro by the 1st June, calling in my way at Monte Video, or Gorriti, for chronometrical observations; and if can, conveniently, I shall also go to Port Desire for the same purpose. But as it is at present uncertain what orders I may find for me at Valparaiso, you are to act according to your own discretion, so that you arrive at Rio by the 20th of June to rejoin me.

Given under my hand, on board the Adventure, at St. Carlos de Chilóe, November 18th, 1829.

PHILLIP P. KING, Commander.

To Robert Fitz-Roy, Esq., Commander of H.M.S. Beagle.

* * * * *

By Phillip Parker King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel Adventure, and Senior Officer of an Expedition for the survey of a part of South America.

As soon as the Adelaide Tender is ready, you will proceed to sea, in the execution of the following orders:--

As your principal object will be to trace the main-land from the peninsula of Tres Montes to the southward, by penetrating into all the openings that lead easterly, you will commence at the Channel Mouths, and explore them to their termination.

In the event of their affording a communication with the Gulf of Trinidad, and your having time, you will examine the channels that you have reported to exist in the neighbourhood of Neesham Bay, so as to complete the Fallos Channel, which separates Campana from the land within it.

Should the Channel Mouths not afford the expected termination, you will proceed through the Mesier or Fallos Channels, in {566} which, and in the channels more to the southward, you will explore all openings leading into the interior, and, if possible, not lose sight of the main-land until you reach the Strait of Magellan; by doing which it is expected, from the results of your last survey, that you will pass through the Skyring and Otway Waters, and enter the Strait by the Jerome Channel. The above being the principal object of your operations, you will take every opportunity of examining all other interesting parts of the coast, in the vicinity of your anchorages, among which the following seem to be of most interest:--

The Guaianeco Islands, and the probable place of the Wager's wreck, which would seem to be to the southward of, and not far from the Dundee Rock of your former survey.

If time afforded, it would be interesting to lay down the shores of Concepcion Strait; also to examine the deep opening on the west side of St. Estevan Channel, in the latitude of 51° 8'.

Lord Nelson Strait is also of much interest, and any extension of our knowledge of the land that bounds the western side of Smyth Channel.

But in these you will be guided by your own discretion, keeping in mind the principal object of the present survey, that of tracing the shores of the main-land.

The Adventure will be at Port Famine by the 1st of April, if nothing occurs to prevent it; and at Rio de Janeiro by the 1st of June, where you will rejoin me; but you are at liberty to call at Monte Video, on your way, for any supplies which you may require.

(Signed) PHILLIP P. KING.

7th Dec. 1829. San Carlos de Chilóe. To Lieutenant W. G. Skyring, commanding H.M. schooner Adelaide, Tender to H.M.S. Adventure.

* * * * *

{567}

Some Observations relating to the Southern Extremity of South America, Tierra del Fuego, and the Strait of Magalhaens; made during the Survey of those Coasts in his Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1830. By Captain Phillip Parker King, F.R.S., Commander of the Expedition.

------

[The original paper, from which the following observations have been extracted, was read before the Geographical Society of London on the 25th of April and 9th of May 1831; and was printed in the Journal of that Society for the same year.

It is here reprinted, with a few omissions and very slight alterations, in order that this volume may contain all that the Author has yet published respecting South America; excepting particular Sailing Directions.]

------

Considering the vast extent of the sea-coast of the southern extremity of America, it is not a little surprising that it should have been so frequently passed by, during the last century, without having been more explored. Within the last twenty years, however, it has been very much resorted to by English and American vessels in the seal trade, and to the observing portion of their enterprising crews many of its intricacies are well known; but as the knowledge they have derived from their experience has only in one instance, that of Mr. Weddell's voyage, been published to the world, our charts cannot be said to have been much improved for the last fifty years.

The eastern coast of Patagonia, by which name the country between the River Plata and the Strait of Magalhaens[215] is known, {568} was coasted, as well as the north-eastern side of Tierra del Fuego, by Malaspina; and the charts of his voyage not only vie with any contemporaneous production for accuracy and detail, but are even now quite sufficient for the general purposes of navigation.

The Strait of Magalhaens has been explored by several navigators; but, among the numerous plans of it extant, those of Sir John Narborough and Cordova are the most correct. The first is particularly noticed in the late Admiral Burney's very useful work, and the result of the last has been published in the Spanish language, and is entitled "Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes." A second voyage was also made by Cordova to the Strait, the proceedings of which form an appendix to the above work. It is furnished with a good general chart of the coast, another of the Strait, and many plans of the anchorages within it. Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Bougainville, had already made considerable additions to Narborough's plan, from which a chart had been compiled that answered all the purposes of general geographical information, and might even have been sufficient for navigation: for the latter purpose, however, Cordova's chart was much superior; but, being published in Spain only, and its existence little known in England, I found great difficulty in procuring a copy before I sailed, for my own use.

The southern coast of Tierra del Fuego, between Cape Good Success, the southern limit of Strait le Maire, and Cape Pillar at the western end of the Strait of Magalhaens, was very little known. Cook's voyage affords several useful notices of the coast between Cape Deseado and Christmas Sound, and the Dutch fleet under Hermite partially explored the neighbourhood of Cape Horn: a confused chart of this coast, however, was the best that could be put together; and although Mr. Weddell has more recently published an account of the harbours and anchorages near Cape Horn and New Year Sound, yet little available benefit was derived from it, because these different navigators having confined their examinations to small portions of the coast, it was difficult to connect their respective plans, even on so small a scale as that of the general chart.

The western coast of South America, which is very intricate, extending from Cape Victory (the north-west entrance of the {569} Strait of Magalhaens) to the island of Chilóe, may be said to have been wholly unknown; for since the time of Sarmiento de Gamboa nothing in the least descriptive of it had been published, with the exception of the brief notices of two missionary voyages in piraguas, from Chilóe to the Guiateca and Guaianeco islands.

Every person conversant with South American geography, must be acquainted with the voyage of Sarmiento. From the determined perseverance shown by that excellent and skilful navigator, through difficulties of no ordinary nature, we are possessed of the details of a voyage down the western coast, and through the Strait of Magalhaens, that has never been surpassed. His journal has furnished us with the description of a coast more difficult and dangerous to explore than any which could readily be selected--for it was at that time perfectly unknown, and is exposed to a climate of perpetual storms and rain: yet the account is written with such minute care and correctness, that we have been enabled to detect upon our charts almost every place described in the Gulf of Trinidad, and the channels to the south of it, particularly their termination at his Ancon sin Salida.

It would be irrelevant to enter here into the history of Sarmiento's voyage, or indeed of any other connected with these coasts. Modern surveys are made so much more in detail than those of former years, that little use can be made of the charts and plans that have been hitherto formed; but the accounts of the voyages connected with them are replete with interesting and useful matter, and much amusement as well as information may be derived from their perusal, particularly Sir John Narborough's journal, and Byron's romantic and pathetic narrative of the loss of the Wager.

The Cordillera of the Andes, which is known to extend from the northern part of the continent almost to its southern extremity, decreases in elevation near the higher southern latitudes. In the neighbourhood of Quito, Chimborazo and Pinchincha rear their summits to the height of nearly twenty-two thousand feet above the level of the sea; near Santiago de Chile the highest land is supposed to be fourteen thousand feet; farther south, near Concepcion, it is lower; and near Chilóe there are few parts of the range exceeding seven thousand feet. Between Chilóe and the {570} Strait of Magalhaens the average height may be taken at three thousand feet; though there are some mountains which may be between six and seven thousand feet high.

By a reference to the chart it will be seen that about the parallel of 40° the coast begins to assume, and retains to its furthest extremity, a very different appearance from that which it exhibits to the northward, where the sea, which is kept at a distance from the Cordillera by a belt of comparatively low land for continuous intervals of some hundred miles, washes a long unbroken shore, affording neither shelter for vessels nor landing for boats; but, to the southward of that parallel, its waters reach to the very base of the great chain of the Andes, and, flowing as it were into the deep ravines that wind through its ramifications, form numerous channels, sounds, and gulfs, and, in many instances, insulate large portions of land. In fact, the whole of this space is fronted by large islands and extensive archipelagoes, of which the most conspicuous are the great island of Chilóe, Wellington Island, the Archipelago of Madre de Dios, Hanover Island, and Queen Adelaide Archipelago. The last forms the western entrance of the Strait on its north side. The land of Tres Montes, however, is an exception: it is a peninsula, and is the only part of the continent within the above limits that is exposed to the ocean's swell. It forms the northern part of the Gulf of Peñas, and is joined to the main by the narrow isthmus of Ofqui, over which the Indians, in travelling along the coast, carry their canoes, to avoid the extreme danger of passing round the peninsula. It was here that Byron and his shipwrecked companions crossed over with their Indian guides: but it is a route that is not much frequented; for this part of the coast is very thinly inhabited, and the trouble of pulling to pieces and reconstructing the canoes,[216] an operation absolutely necessary to be performed, is so great, that I imagine it is only done on occasions of importance. In this way the piraguas which conveyed the missionary voyagers to the Guaianeco Islands were transported {571} over the isthmus; the particulars of which are fully detailed in their journals.[217]

The river San Tadeo, although of small size, being navigable only for eleven miles, is the largest river of the coast south of the archipelago of Chilóe, and therefore merits a particular description. At seven miles from the mouth it is fed by two streams or torrents, the currents of which are so strong that a fast-pulling boat can hardly make way against it. One of these streams takes its rise in a mountainous range, over which perhaps the communicating road passes; and the other is the drain of an extensive glacier or plain of ice of fifteen miles in extent. The river falls into the Gulf of St. Estevan over a shallow bar, upon which there is scarcely two feet water, and at low tide is probably dry.

At the head of St. Estevan Gulf is St. Quintin Sound; both were examined and found to afford excellent anchorage, and they are both of easy access should a ship, passing up the coast, find herself upon a lee shore and not able to weather the land, as was the case with the ill-fated Wager.[218]

The Guaianeco islands form the southern head of the Gulf of Peñas; then follows Wellington Island, separated from the main by the Mesier Channel, which had not been previously explored, its mouth only being laid down in the charts, compiled from the information of Machado, a pilot who was sent in 1769 by the Viceroy of Peru to examine the coast from Chilóe to the Strait {572} of Magalhaens.[219] This channel is also noticed in one of the two missionary voyages above mentioned; but the object of these expeditions being for the purpose of converting the Indians to Christianity,[220] and not for the extension of geographical knowledge, little information of that nature could be obtained from their journal: the entrance of the Mesier, however, is described by them; and on one occasion they were obliged to take refuge in it for fifteen days.[221] With this exception I cannot find that it had ever been entered before our visit.

The length of the channel is one hundred and sixty miles, and it joins the Concepcion Strait behind the Madre de Dios archipelago, at the Brazo Ancho of Sarmiento. Lieutenant Skyring, who superintended this particular part of the survey, called the land which it insulates, Wellington Island; the seaward coast of which is fronted by several islands. Fallos Channel, which separates the Campaña and Wellington Islands, was examined, from its northern entrance, for thirty-three miles, and was conjectured, after communicating with the sea at Dynely Sound, to extend to the southward, and fall into the Gulf of Trinidad by one of the deep sounds which were noticed on the north shore.

About thirty miles within the Mesier Channel, from the northern extremity, the west side appears to be formed by a succession of large islands, many of which are separated by wide channels leading to the south-west, and probably communicating with the Fallos Channel. On the eastern shore the openings were found to be either narrow inlets or abruptly terminating sounds.

On both sides of the channel the coast is hilly, but not very high, and in many places there is much low and generally thickly wooded land. This character distinguishes the Mesier from other channels in these regions.

The trees here are nearly of the same description as those which are found in all parts between Cape Tres Montes and the Strait of Magalhaens. Of these the most common are an evergreen beech (_Fagus betuloides_), a birch-like beech (_Fagus antarctica_), the Winter's bark (_Winterana aromatica_[222]), and a tree with all the appearance and habit of a cypress, of which the Indians make their {573} spears. Among others there is one, the wood of which being extremely hard and weighty, answers better than the rest for fuel: the sealers call it 'the red wood,' from its colour. From the great quantity of timber which grows here it would be naturally supposed probably that spars for masts could be easily obtained, or at least wood useful for less important purposes; but although many trees were found that were sufficiently large at the base, they grew to no great height; and, in consequence of the moisture of the climate, and the crowded state of the forests preventing the admission of the sun's rays, the wood generally proved to be decayed in the heart; besides being very apt, even after a long seasoning, to warp and split when exposed to a dry air.

Ten miles beyond White-kelp Cove, which is fifty miles within the entrance, the character of the Mesier Channel changes entirely; the shore on either side being formed of mountainous and precipitous ridges rising abruptly from the water. After this, at Halt Bay, twenty-three miles beyond White-kelp Cove, the channel narrows for a considerable distance, and in three particular places is not more than four hundred yards wide. This part of the channel is called in the chart the English Narrow. It is long and intricate, with many islands strewed throughout; and preserves its tortuous and frequently narrow course to its junction with the Wide Channel, in which the breadth increases to two miles and a half; and then, running thirty-four miles with a direct and unimpeded course, falls into the Concepcion Strait as above stated.

At the point where the Mesier and the Wide Channels unite, a deep sound extends to the N. N. E. for forty-six miles. It was named Sir George Eyre Sound. An extensive glacier sloping into the sea from the summit of a range of high snowy mountains, that are visible from many parts of the Mesier Channel, terminates this sound; and near the head of it several large icebergs, containing no inconsiderable blocks of granite, were found aground.[223]

{574}

Of the archipelago of Madre de Dios we know very little. It has probably many deep openings on its seaward face, and is fronted by islands and rocks. Its character is rocky and mountainous, and by no means agreeable. The wide and safe channel of Concepcion Strait separates it from the main land, which in this part is much intersected by deep sounds, the principal of which, the Canal of San Andres, extends to the base of the snowy range of the Cordillera, and there Lieutenant Skyring describes it to be suddenly closed by immense glaciers.

Behind Hanover Island, which is separated from Madre de Dios by the Concepcion Strait, the main-land is very much intersected by sounds like the San Andres Channel, extending to the base of the Andes.

South of Hanover Island is Queen Adelaide Archipelago, through which are several channels that communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens; of which the principal, Smyth Channel, falls into the Strait at Cape Tamar.

In the winter of 1829, Captain Robert Fitz-Roy, then commanding the Beagle, in examining the Jerome Channel, which communicates with the Strait in that part called Crooked Reach, discovered 'Otway Water,' an inland sea fifty miles long, trending to the N.E., and separated from the eastern entrance of the Strait by a narrow isthmus; the actual width of which was not ascertained, for in the attempt the boats were nearly lost. The south-eastern shore is high and rocky, and generally precipitous, but the northern is formed by low undulating grassy plains, free from trees, and precisely like the country about the eastern entrance of the Strait. At the north-west corner of the water a passage was found leading in a north-west direction for twelve miles, when it opened into another extent of water, about thirty-four miles long and twenty wide. This he called the Skyring Water. Its southern and western sides are bounded by mountainous land, but the northern shore is low, apparently formed of undulating downs and grassy plains, and in some places watered by rivulets. At the western extremity of the water two openings were observed, separated by a remarkable castellated mountain which was called Dynevor Castle. Beyond the southernmost opening there was no land visible, not even a distant mountain, which induced Captain Fitz-Roy to suppose that it was a channel communicating with the {575} western coast; but from what we now know, it is not probable that it can lead to anything of consequence. It is, perhaps, backed by low marshy land reaching to the hills at the bottom of Glacier Bay, which, from the distance being seventy miles, were not visible above the horizon. The northern opening probably passes Dynevor Castle, and, perhaps, nearly reaches the bottom of Obstruction Sound. The Skyring Water was not further explored; partly from want of a sufficient quantity of provisions to undertake it with any prospect of succeeding, and partly from a strong south-westerly gale, from which there was no shelter for the open boats in which this examination was performed. The remainder, therefore, of Captain Fitz-Roy's time was spent in completing what he had commenced; and, after an absence of thirty-two days, he rejoined his ship at Port Gallant.

At the western end of the passage, which unites the waters, the shore is well clothed on the north side with luxuriant grass and trefoil, with here and there a sprinkling of brushwood, but is entirely destitute of trees. The soil, although dry, is light, and tolerably good; but the ground is perforated everywhere by some burrowing animal, probably skunks, or _cavias_. The tracks of horses were noticed in many places, and the bones of guanacoes were scattered about. Water was not very plentiful, but several small brooks and springs in the sides of the hills were observed, sufficient for all useful purposes.

On the south side of the passage the land is low, but wooded: the banks are from five to forty feet high, sloping to the water, and covered with grass. In the entrance the tide ran five or six knots at the neaps, but inside with only half that rapidity. On the north side, at the distance of a mile and a-half, there is a ridge of hills, to the summit of which Captain Fitz-Roy made an excursion, which is described in the Narrative.

In consequence of the supposed communication of the Skyring Water with some part of the western coast, a careful examination was made of every opening trending into the interior behind the islands and archipelagoes that line the western coast; the result of which has proved that the hypothesis so naturally formed was not confirmed by fact. A reference to the chart will show how carefully the search was carried on, and with what want of success it was concluded. The deep opening discovered by Sarmiento, and {576} named by him, 'Ancon sin salida,' was found, upon examination, to extend so far into the interior, and in the direction of the Skyring Water, that the most strict investigation of the numerous sounds and canals was made, in the perfect conviction of finding the desired communication. But after a patient, laborious, and minute examination, particularly of those openings which led to the southward, among which Obstruction Sound held the most flattering appearance, Lieutenant Skyring, who performed this service, was obliged to give up the search and return. At one part, near the south-eastern end of the sound, he entered an opening, which at first had an appearance that was favourable to the desired communication, but it terminated in low, woody land. There was, however, a hill near the shore, which he ascended with the hope of obtaining a view of the country; but the sides and summit of the hill were so thickly wooded as to obstruct his view, and with the exception of some distant high land in the south-east quarter, and a sheet of water about six miles off in the same bearing, nothing was discerned to repay him for the fatigue and trouble of the ascent. Whether the water is a lagoon, or a part of the Skyring Water, or whether it communicates with the opening trending round the north side of Dynevor Castle, yet remains to be ascertained.

Being foiled in this attempt, Lieutenant Skyring proceeded onward in a S.S.W. direction, and after a pull often miles came to the bottom of the sound, which was terminated by high, precipitous land encircling every part. Neither wigwams nor traces of Indians were seen, another proof, were one required, of the sound not communicating with the Skyring Water; for the Indians very rarely visit these deep inlets, but are always to be found in narrow straits or communicating channels, where, from the strength of the tide, seals and porpoises, which constitute the principal food of the Fuegian Indians, abound. Sarmiento's name, therefore, of 'Ancon sin salida,' which we had hoped to have expunged from the chart, must now remain, a lasting memorial of his enterprising character, and of a voyage deservedly one of the most celebrated, as well as most useful, of the age in which it was performed.

The termination of Obstruction Sound is one of the most remarkable features in the geography of this part of South America.

In this examination the southern extremity of the Cordillera was {577} ascertained. The eastern shores of the interior channels were found to be low plains, with no hills or mountains visible in the distance; and such being characteristic also of the northern shores of the Otway and Skyring Waters, it is probable that all the country to the east of the sounds is a continued plain.

Recent traces of Indians were seen in some places; but at the time our party was there, they were either absent or had concealed themselves. I should not think that these interior sounds are much frequented by them; a family was, however, met in the passage between the Otway and the Skyring Water, clothed with guanaco skins, like the Patagonian tribes, but in manners and disposition resembling the wandering inhabitants of the Strait and Tierra del Fuego; and they had canoes, which the Patagonians do not use. They had probably come thus far for the purpose of communicating with the latter tribes, with whom they frequently have friendly intercourse. No guanacoes were seen either on the shores of the inland waters or of the sounds within the 'Ancon sin salida,' although the country, being open and covered with luxuriant grass, was peculiarly suited to their habits; but as several large herds of deer were observed feeding near the sea-shore of Obstruction Sound, and the neighbouring country, the presence of these latter animals may probably be the cause; for on the eastern coast, where the guanacoes are every where abundant, the deer do not make their appearance. Sea-otters were the only other animals that we met with; but they were only occasionally noticed, swimming about the kelp. The shores of the sounds were in many places crowded with the black-necked swan (_Anas nigricollis_, Linn.), and there were a few seen, but only one captured, whose plumage, excepting the tips of the wings, which were black, was of a dazzling white colour. I have described it in the first part of the Proceedings of the Zoological Society as a new species (_Cygnus anatoïdes_.)

The Strait of Magalhaens, being a transverse section of the continent, exhibits a view of its geological structure. The Strait may be divided into three portions; the western, the central, and the eastern. The western and central are of primitive character, rugged and very mountainous; but the eastern portion is of recent formation and low. The western tract is composed of a succession of stratified rocks, a difference at once distinguishable by the form {578} and nature of the ranges, and the direction of the shores: the hills are irregularly heaped together; the sounds are intricate and tortuous in their course, and the shores are formed by deep sinuosities and prominently projecting headlands: the channels, also, are studded with innumerable islands and rocks extremely dangerous for navigation. In this portion the rock is, for the most part, granite and greenstone.

Near the centre of the Strait, the rock being clay-slate, the mountains are higher, and more precipitous and rugged in their outline; and consequently not easily to be ascended. They are in general three thousand feet, but some are found to be four thousand feet, in height; and one, Mount Sarmiento, is upwards of six thousand feet high, and is covered throughout the year with snow. The line of perpetual snow in the Strait seems to be about three thousand five hundred feet above the sea: the mountains, whose height does not exceed three thousand, are, during the summer, frequently free from any, excepting in holes, where a large quantity is accumulated by drifting, and protected from the sun. The Strait here is quite free from islands, and it is a remarkable fact, that where the greenstone formation terminates, there the islands cease to appear.

The slate formation continues as far as Freshwater Bay, where the stratified rocks leave the coast and extend in a north-west direction. The soil then becomes apparently a mixture of decomposed slate and clay; the slate gradually disappearing on approaching to Cape Negro, where the rock partakes of the character of the east coast. Here again we observe, along with the change of geological character, the re-appearance of islands, the soil of which is clayey, but with masses of granite, hornblende rock and clay slate protruding in many places through the superficial soil, which, although it yields a poor grass, is entirely destitute of trees.

In that portion of the Strait to the eastward of Cape Negro the hills are remarkable for the regularity and parallelism of their direction, and their general resemblance to each other. On the north shore, near Cape Gregory, a range of high land commences suddenly, with rather a precipitous ascent, and extends for forty miles to the north-east, where it terminates in detached rocky hills. The south-western end of the range is a ridge of flat-topped {579} land covered with soil, but with here and there a protruding mass of primitive rock: one of these appeared to be of sienite or granite. The north-eastern end of this range is perhaps more bare of soil, and, therefore, exposes the rock, which shows itself in detached hills. Precisely similar in appearance and direction is a range on the south shore, about fifty miles in length, commencing at Cape Monmouth and terminating in detached hills in the vicinity of the south side of the First Narrow. The courses, also, of both the First and Second Narrow, which are just within the eastern entrance of the Strait, are nearly parallel with these hills; and the smaller ranges of eminences, Elizabeth Island and the cliffy land of Cape Negro, where the clay formation commences, all trend to the N.N.E., preserving a general resemblance of form and character to the two ranges above mentioned.

The irregularity of the topographic features of the western portion of the Strait, combined with its confused assemblage and immense number of islands and rocks;--the regularity of the strata--the coinciding parallelism of all the bays, channels, and sounds,--and the total absence of islands in the central portion or slate formation;--together with the remarkable similarity of the direction of the hills and coast line, and the stratification of the north-eastern tract, which is very different from that of the centre;--are very striking facts, and, geologically considered, are of great interest.

No less remarkable, however, and equally interesting, is the character of the vegetation; not so much in the variety of plants, as in their stunted growth to the westward, their luxuriance in the centre, and the total absence of trees to the eastward. For this modification the following reasons seem to me to account sufficiently. To the westward the decomposition of granite, and the other primitive rocks which are found there, forms but a poor, unproductive soil; so that, although the land is thickly covered with shrubs, they are all small and stunted: the torrents of water also that pour down the steep sides of the hills, wash away the partial accumulations of soil that are occasionally deposited; consequently, few trees are to be found, excepting in clefts and recesses of the rock, where decomposed vegetable matter collects and nourishes their growth; but even there they are low and stunted, for the most luxuriant seldom attain a larger diameter than nine or ten inches. {580}

From the regularity of the direction of the strata in the slate districts the vallies are very extensive, and, being bounded on either side by precipitous mountains much intersected by deep ravines, receive large streams of water, which, uniting together in their course to the sea, form no inconsiderable rivers. During the winter months these rivers become swollen and overflow their banks, and deposit a quantity of alluvium, which, blending with the fallen leaves and other putrescent substances, produces a good superficial soil, in which trees grow to a large size, and the shrubs and smaller plants become particularly luxuriant and productive.

At Port Famine, and in its neighbourhood, the evergreen beech (_Fagus betuloides_) grows in the greatest abundance, and reaches a very large size. Trees of this species, of three feet in diameter, are abundant; of four feet, there are many; and there is one tree (perhaps the very same noticed by Commodore Byron[224]), which measures seven feet in diameter for seventeen feet above the roots, and then divides into three large branches, each of which is three feet through. This venerable tree seemed to be sound, but from our experience of several others that were cut down, might be expected to prove rotten in the centre. This tendency to decaying in the heart may be attributed to the coldness of the schistose sub-soil upon which the trees are rooted, as well as to the perpetual moisture of the climate above alluded to.

The slate formation ceases at Port St. Mary, but there is no decided change in the vegetation until we come to Cape Negro, where the clay commences; and from thence onwards there is not a tree to be found. The nature of the soil is not favourable to plants which take a deep root, and, therefore, only shrubs and grasses are found: the former are thinly scattered over the extensive plains which characterise this country; but the grasses are abundant, and although of a harsh and dry appearance, must be nourishing, for they form the chosen food of numerous and large herds of guanacoes.

Besides the evergreen beech above-mentioned, there are but few other trees in the Strait that can be considered as timber trees. Such an appellation only belongs to two other species of beech and the Winter's bark. The last, which is also an evergreen, is to be found mixed with the first, in all parts of the Strait; so that {581} the country and hills, from the height of two thousand feet above the sea, to the very verge of the high-water mark, are covered with a perpetual verdure which is remarkably striking, particularly in those places where the glaciers descend into the sea; the sudden contrast in such cases presenting to the view a scene as agreeable as it seems to be anomalous. I have myself seen vegetation thriving most luxuriantly, and large woody-stemmed trees of Fuchsia and Veronica[225] (in England considered and treated as tender plants), in full flower, within a very short distance of the base of a mountain, covered for two-thirds down with snow, and with the temperature at 36°. The Fuchsia certainly was rarely found except in sheltered spots, but not so the Veronica; for the beaches of the bays on the west side of San Juan Island at Port San Antonio are lined with trees of the latter, growing even in the very wash of the sea. There is no part of the Strait more exposed to the wind than this, for it faces the reach to the west of Cape Froward, down which the wind constantly blows, and brings with it a succession of rain, sleet, or snow; and in the winter months, from April to August, the ground is covered with a layer of snow, from six inches to two or three feet in depth.

There must be, therefore, some peculiar quality in the atmosphere of this otherwise rigorous climate which favours vegetation; for if not, these comparatively delicate plants could not live and flourish through the long and severe winters of this region.

In the summer, the temperature at night was frequently as low as 29° of Fahrenheit, and yet I never noticed the following morning any blight or injury sustained by these plants, even in the slightest degree.

I have occasionally, during the summer, been up the greater part of the night at my observatory, with the internal as well as the external thermometers as low as freezing point, without being particularly warmly clad, and yet not feeling the least cold; and in the winter, the thermometer, on similar occasions, has been at 24° and 26°, without my suffering the slightest inconvenience. This I attributed at the time to the peculiar stillness of the air, although, within a short distance in the offing and overhead, the wind was high.

Whilst upon this subject, there are two facts which may be {582} mentioned as illustrative of the mildness of the climate, notwithstanding the lowness of the temperature. One is the comparative warmth of the sea near its surface, between which and the air, I have in the month of June, the middle of the winter season, observed a difference of 30°, upon which occasion the sea was covered with a cloud of steam. The other is, that parrots and humming-birds, generally the inhabitants of warm regions, are very numerous in the southern and western parts of the Strait--the former feeding upon the seeds of the Winter's bark, and the latter having been seen by us chirping and sipping the sweets of the Fuchsia and other flowers, after two or three days of constant rain, snow, and sleet, during which the thermometer had been at freezing point. We saw them also in the month of May upon the wing, during a snow shower: and they are found in all parts of the south-west and west coasts as far as Valparaiso. I have since been informed that this species is also an inhabitant of Peru; so that it has a range of more than 41° of latitude, the southern limit being 53½° south.[226]

Tierra del Fuego is divided by several channels; a principal one of which is opposite to Cape Froward, and another fronts Port Gallant. The easternmost, called Magdalen, trends in a due south direction for nineteen miles, and separates the clay slate from the more crystalline rocks, which seem to predominate in Clarence Island, and are chiefly of greenstone; though, at the eastern end, there is much mica slate. At the bottom of Magdalen Sound the channel turns sharply to the westward; and, after a course of about forty miles, meets the Barbara Channel, which, as above-mentioned, communicates with the Strait opposite to Port Gallant, and both fall into the sea together. Magdalen Sound and its continuation, Cockburn Channel, are almost free from islands and rocks; but the Barbara Channel, which separates {583} the granite from the greenstone and mica slate districts, is throughout thickly strewed with islands, which reduce the channel in some parts to a mile, and, in one place, to not more than fifty yards in width. Here, of course, the tide sets with great strength. Several vessels, however, have passed through it under sail; and one ship, a whaler belonging to Messrs. Enderby, working through the Strait, and finding much difficulty in passing to the westward, bore up, and, the wind being fair and the distance to sea only fifty miles, ran through it without accident. The land to the westward of the Barbara Channel is high and rugged; and although in the vallies, ravines, and sheltered nooks, there is no want of vegetation, yet, in comparison with the eastern part of the Strait, it has a very dismal and uninviting appearance. It was called by Sarmiento, 'Santa Ines Island';[227] but Narborough called it, 'South Desolation; it being,' as he says, 'so desolate land to behold.'[228]

Clarence Island, which is fifty-two miles long and twenty-three broad, although equally rocky, is much more verdant in appearance. The uniform direction of the headlands of the north shore of the island is remarkable. Upon taking a set of angles with the theodolite placed upon the extremity of the west end of Bell Bay, opposite to Cape Holland, the most prominent points to the south-east, as far as could be seen, were all visible in the field of the telescope at the same bearing. The same thing occurred on the opposite shore of the Strait, where the projections of Cape Gallant, Cape Holland, and Cape Froward, are in the same line of bearing; so that a parallel ruler placed on the map upon the projecting points of the south shore, extended across, will also touch the headlands of the opposite coast.

The eastern island, which had been previously called, and of course retains on our chart the name of King Charles South Land, extends from the entrance of the Strait to the outlet of the Barbara and Cockburn Channels, at Cape Schomberg. The northern part partakes of the geological character of the eastern portion of the Strait. The centre is a continuation of the slate formation, which is evident at a glance, from the uniformity of the direction of the shores of Admiralty Sound, the Gabriel Channel, and all the bays and mountain ranges of Dawson Island. The south shore, or seaward coast line, is principally of greenstone, {584} excepting the shores of the Beagle Channel, which extends from Christmas Sound to Cape San Pio, a distance of a hundred and twenty miles, with a course so direct that no points of the opposite shores cross and intercept a free view through; although its average breadth, which also is very parallel, is not much above a mile, and in some places is but a third of a mile across. The south shores of Hoste and Navarin Islands are of horn-blende rock, which is also the principal component of the islands in the neighbourhood, as well as of the island itself of Cape Horn. The eastern part of King Charles South Land is low, with plains like the Patagonian coast; but the range of high land interrupted at Port Famine extends down the north side of Admiralty Sound, and perhaps, with some few intervals, continues to the south-east extremity of the land, near Cape Good Success, which is the south cape of the west side of Strait Le Maire, and there terminates in lofty mountains covered with snow, one of which, called in the charts 'The Sugar Loaf,' is probably four thousand feet high.

The eastern shore of King Charles South Land, towards the south part, is lofty, but near the northern part is very low. The interior is also low, with extensive plains, abounding with guanacoes, some of which also were found, and shot by the officers of the Beagle, within fifty miles of Cape Horn.

The eastern coast of Patagonia, from the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens to the River Plata, is comparatively low. From Cape Virgins to Port St. Julian, where porphyritic claystone commences, the coast is formed of clay cliffs, horizontally stratified, and the country is undulating, with extensive plains, or pampas, covered with grass, but without trees. At Port St. Julian, the country becomes hilly, and continues so as far to the northward as latitude 44°, the rock being porphyritic. The clay formation to the southward has been likened to the appearance of the coast of Kent, and at a short distance it bears certainly a very great resemblance to it; but the cliffs, instead of being of chalk, are composed of a soft marly clay, without any gravel or impressions of organic remains, excepting at Port St. Julian, where fossil shells, both bivalves and univalves, are found imbedded in clay cliffs; and on the surface are lying, strewed about, large oyster-shells.

In the clay formation there are two rivers: the Gallegos, in lat. 51° 38'; and Port Santa Cruz, in lat. 50° 7'. The Gallegos, at {585} high water, may be easily entered, but at low water the banks are dry to a great extent; a channel, however, is left on its south side, of sufficient depth for a small vessel: the tide rises forty-six feet, and the stream is very strong.

Port Desire, in 47° 45' south latitude, has a narrow entrance with strong tides; but affords in the offing very good anchorage as well as shelter from the prevailing winds, which are offshore, or westerly. The inlet extends up the country, nearly in a west direction, for eighteen miles; but the land is dry and parched, and very unsuitable for the establishment which the Spanish government formed there not many years since, and of which evident traces remain to this day.

St. George's Gulf, called in the old charts 'Bahia sin Fondo,' or Deep-Sea Gulf, was formerly considered to be a deep sinuosity of the coast, into which a river emptied its waters after winding through a large tract of country; for, until the Descubierta and Atrevida's voyage of discovery, very vague accounts had been given of this, or indeed of any other part of the coast. The Gulf, upon that examination, was found to possess no river or creek in any part excepting on the north side, where there are several deep bays and coves, which are, and have been frequented by our sealing vessels. The country about is dry and parched, although partially covered with small shrubs, and a wiry grass on which large herds of guanacoes feed.

According to Falkner (the Jesuit missionary, who resided many years among the Indian tribes inhabiting the country about Buenos Ayres), the eastern coast between the latitudes of 41° and 51° is frequented by the natives for the purpose only of burying the dead: they have, however, been occasionally met with travelling along the coast, apparently without any particular object in view. Near Port Desire I have seen the graves of the Indians on the summit of the hills, but the bodies had been removed, probably by the Indians themselves; for we are informed by Falkner, that, after the dead have been interred twelve months, the graves are visited by the tribe, for the purpose of collecting the bones and conveying them to their family sepulchres, where they are set up and adorned with all the beads and ornaments the friends and family of the deceased can collect for the occasion. The ceremony {586} is performed by certain women of the tribe whose peculiar office it is to attend to these rites.

In the year 1828, from the commencement of January to the middle of August, the Adventure (the ship I commanded) was at anchor at Port Famine, in the Strait of Magalhaens, in latitude 53° 38¼' south, and longitude 70° 54' west of Greenwich; and during the whole of that time a careful meteorological journal was kept. The temperature was registered from a very good thermometer of Fahrenheit's scale, suspended within a copper cylindrical case of nine inches diameter, and perforated above and below with holes, to admit a free current of air. The cylinder was fixed to the roof of a shed, thatched with dried leaves to shelter it from the sun, while the sides were open. The barometer (a mountain barometer made by Newman, with an iron cylinder) was hung up in the observatory, five feet above the high-water mark, and both instruments were examined carefully and regularly at the following hours, namely: six and nine o'clock in the morning, at noon, and at three and six o'clock in the evening. The state of the atmosphere was observed daily, by Daniel's hygrometer, at three o'clock in the afternoon. The maximum and minimum temperatures were also observed twice in twenty-four hours, from a Six's thermometer, namely: at nine o'clock in the morning, and at nine in the evening. From this journal the following abstract has been drawn up:-- {587}

SUMMARY OF METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

TABLE I.

Mean height of the BAROMETER, corrected for Neut^l. P^t. and Capill^y. and reduced to the temperature of 32°.

+------+--------------------+----------------------+ | | AUTUMNAL PERIOD. | BRUMAL PERIOD. | | |------+------+------+-------+-------+------+ | Hour | Feb. |March.|April.| May. | June. | July.| +------+------+------+------+-------+-------+------+ | |inches|inches|inches|inches |inches |inches| | VI. |29.404|29.631|29.569|+29.322|+29.279|29.581| | IX. | +.415| +.655| +.581| .311| .277| .584| | XII. | .405| -.641| .574| .292| .272| .576| | III. | -.399| .647| -.555| -.285| -.271| -.542| | VI. | .404| .657| .579| .308| .294| .571| +------+------+------+------+-------+-------+------+ | Means|29.405|29.646|29.572| 29.304| 29.279|29.571| +------+------+------+------+-------+-------+------+

+------+-----------------------+ | | MEANS. | | |-------+-------+-------+ | Hour |Autumn.|Brumal.|Au.&Br.| +------+-------+-------+-------+ | | inches|inches |inches | | VI. | 29.531|+29.394|29.463 | | IX. | +.550| .391| +.470 | | XII. | .540| .380| .460 | | III. | -.534| -.366| -.450 | | VI. | .540| .391| .465 | +------+-------+-------+-------+ | Means| 29.539| 29.384|29.462 | +------+-------+-------+-------+

TABLE II.

+----------------------------------------------------------+ | THERMOMETER--Fahrenheit. | +------+--------------------+----------------------+-------+ | | AUTUMNAL PERIOD. | BRUMAL PERIOD. |12 Days| | |------+------+------+-------+-------+------+ of | | Hour | Feb. |March.|April.| May. | June. | July.|August.| +------+------+------+------+-------+-------+------+-------+ | | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | | VI. | 44.30| 44.20| 35.82| 34.74 | 30.67 | 30.53| 33.46 | | IX. | 51.38| 49.87| 40.61| 36.36 | 31.83 | 31.50| 35.11 | | XII. | 54.23| 52.53| 45.42| 40.68 | 36.02 | 35.93| 37.92 | | III. | 54.44| 52.39| 44.88| 39.62 | 34.36 | 34.59| 36.24 | | VI. | 51.16| 47.84| 39.83| 35.97 | 31.98 | 32.58| 33.54 | +------+------+------+------+-------+-------+------+-------+ | Means| 51.10| 49.37| 41.22| 35.47 | 32.97 | 33.03| 33.25 | +------+------+------+------+-------+-------+------+-------+

+------+-----------------------+ | | MEANS. | | |-------+-------+-------+ | Hour |Autumn.|Brumal.|Au.&Br.| +------+-------+-------+-------+ | | ° | ° | ° | | VI. | 41.44| 31.98 | 36.71 | | IX. | 47.29| 33.23 | 40.26 | | XII. | 50.73| 37.54 | 44.13 | | III. | 50.57| 36.19 | 43.38 | | VI. | 46.13| 33.51 | 39.82 | +------+-------+-------+-------+ | Means| 47.23 | 34.49 | 40.86 | +------+-------+-------+-------+

{588}

TABLE III.

DANIEL'S HYGROMETER, observed at 3 P.M., daily, and compared with the mean temperature.

+---------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | | AUTUMNAL PERIOD. | BRUMAL PERIOD. | | |-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ | | Feb. | March.| April.| May. | June. | July. | +---------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ | | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | | Monthly mean tem. | 51.10 | 49.37 | 41.22 | 35.47 | 32.97 | 33.03 | | from Table II. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Temperature of | 41.31 | 40.75 | 34.83 | 34.88 | 30.28 | 29.41 | | dew point | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Difference between | 9.79 | 8.62 | 6.39 | 0.59 | 2.69 | 3.62 | | mean temperat. | | | | | | | | and dew point | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Dryness (the point | 711.8 | 736.42| 809.9 | 980.6 | 903.8 | 876.3 | | of Saturation | | | | | | | | being 1000) | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Elasticity of vapour| 295.7 | 289.0 | 238.64| 239.04| 202.24| 196.46| | | | | | | | | | Weight of a cubic | 3.3441| 3.2801| 2.7550| 2.7926| 2.3731| 2.3048| | foot of vapour in | | | | | | | | grains | | | | | | | +---------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

+---------------------+--------+---------------------------+ | |12 Days | MEANS. | | | of |--------+--------+-------- | | | August.| Autumn.| Brumal.|Au.&Br. | +---------------------+--------+--------+--------+---------+ | | ° | ° | ° | ° | | Monthly mean tem. | 33.25 | 47.23 | 34.49 | 40.88 | | from Table II. | | | | | | | | | | | | Temperature of | 30.28 | 38.96 | 31.52 | 35.24 | | dew point | | | | | | | | | | | | Difference between | 2.97 | 8.27 | 2.30 | 5.28 | | mean temperat. | | | | | | and dew point | | | | | | | | | | | | Dryness (the point | 894.6 | 752.71 | 920.23 | 836.47 | | of Saturation | | | | | | being 1000) | | | | | | | | | | | | Elasticity of vapour| 202.2 | 274.44 | 212.58 | 243.51 | | | | | | | | Weight of a cubic | 2.3421| 3.1264| 2.4902| 2.8083 | | foot of vapour in | | | | | | grains | | | | | +---------------------+--------+--------+--------+---------+

TABLE IV.

+---------+-----------------------+------------------------------------+ | | | Temperature. | | | |------------------+-----------------+ | | Pressure. | Air. | Water. | | |-------+-------+-------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+ | Months | Max. | Min. | Range | Max.| Min.| Range| Max.| Min.|Range| +---------+-------+-------+-------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+ | |inches.|inches.|inches.| ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | | February| 30.087| 28.768| 1.319 | 66 | 28 | 38.0 | 52.5| 43.7| 8.8 | | March | 30.099| 29.004| 1.095 | 68 | 30.5| 37.5 | 50.5| 41.5| 9.0 | | April | 30.055| 28.844| 1.211 | 57.5| 28 | 29.5 | 47.8| 40.5| 7.3 | | May | 29.850| 28.795| 1.055 | 49.5| 20.5| 29.0 | 48.2| 42.8| 5.4 | | June | 30.079| 28,274| 1.805 | 48.7| 19.2| 29.5 | 47.0| 40.3| 6.7 | | July | 30.500| 28.942| 1.558 | 44.2| 12.6| 31.6 | 45.0| 41.8| 3.2 | | August }| 29.782| 28.709| 1.073 | 49.2| 18.5| 30.7 | 43.1| 40.2| 2.9 | | 12 days}| | | | | | | | | | +---------+-------+-------+-------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+

+---------+---------------------+ | | Dew Point, | | | Hygrometer | | |------+------+-------+ | Months | Max. | Min. | Range | +---------+------+------+-------+ | | ° | ° | ° | | February| 51.2 | 31 | 20.2 | | March | 47 | 35 | 12 | | April | 42 | 27 | 15 | | May | 43 | 21 | 22 | | June | 41.5 | 20 | 21.5 | | July | 39.7 | 19 | 20.7 | | August }| 37.2 | 20.5 | 16.7 | | 12 days}| | | | +---------+------+------+-------+

{589}

From the preceding tables it will be seen that the mean temperature for the autumnal period (the months of February, March, and April) was 47°.2; the maximum and minimum were respectively 68° and 28°. For the brumal period, the three following months, the mean temperature was 34°.5, and the maximum and minimum 49°.5 and 12°.6. During the former, or autumnal period, the barometer ranged between 30.099 and 28.768 inches, and for the latter it was between 30.5 and 28.274 inches. The range for the first being 1.331 inches, and for the last 2.226 inches.

* * * * *

{590}

EXTRACT

FROM THE

BEAGLE'S 'GAME' BOOK, 1830.

+--------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------| | Date. | Giver. | Given for Fresh Provisions. | +--------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------| | May 16 | Mr. May | 4 Ducks 2 Redbills. | | -- | George West | 3 Gulls, 1 Goose. | | 17 | Mr. Murray | 90 lbs. of Guanaco meat. | | 19 | Capt. Fitz-Roy | 36 Fish (from Natives). | | 19 | Do. | 10 Shags, 4 Redbills. | | 27 | J. Bennett | 2 Shags, 1 Goose, 3 Penguins. | | June 6 | J. Bennett | 7 Shags, 14 Fish. | | 7 | Capt. Fitz-Roy | 1 Albatross, 1 Bittern. | | 16 | Lieut. Kempe | 5 Shags, 2 Geese. | | 16 | Mr. Brailey | 1 Hawk, 1 Owl. | | 16 | Jas. Forsyth | 17 Redbills, 5 Sea-pigeons, | | 17 | Do. | 15 Redbills, 1 Hawk. | | 19 | Do. | 6 Shags. | | -- | Lieut. Kempe | 16 Shags, 4 Ducks, 6 Redbills,| | | | 4 Sea-pigeons. | | 20 | Lieut. Kempe, Mr. Stokes, | 41 Shags, 3 Steamer-ducks, | | | and J. Forsyth | 11 Redbills, 5 | | | | Sea-pigeons, 3 Hawks, | | | | 2 Owls. | +--------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------|

_Note._--Otters, foxes, and seal, were tried more than once, but discarded. Very young seal, however, were liked, as well as young penguins.

{591}

EXTRACT

FROM THE

BEAGLE'S 'GAME' BOOK, 1830.

+---------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------+ | Date. | Given as Fresh Provisions. | To whom. | +---------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------+ | May 17 | 4 Ducks, 1 Goose | The Sick. | | -- | 3 Gulls, 2 Redbills | The Fuegians. | | 18 | 90 lbs. of Guanaco meat | All Hands. | | 19 | 36 Fish | Sick & Fuegians. | | 20 | 6 Shags, 2 Redbills | Sick. | | 21 | 4 Shags, 2 Redbills | Fuegians. | | 28 | 2 Shags | Sick. | | 29 | 1 Goose, 3 Penguins | Fuegians. | | June 7 | 7 Shags, 14 Fish | Sick. | | 8 | 1 Albatross, 1 Bittern | Fuegians. | | 17} |{5 Shags, 17 Redbills, 1} | | | 18} |{Owl, 5 Pigeons, 2 } | All Hands.[229] | | |{Hawks, 2 Geese } | | | 19 | 6 Shags | Sick and Fuegians. | | 20 | 16 Shags, 4 Ducks, 6 | | | | Redbills | All Hands.[230] | | 21 | 20 Shags, 9 Pigeons, 2 | | | | Owls | All Hands. | | 23 | 11 Shags, 6 Redbills, 3 | | | | Hawks | All Hands.[231] | | 24 | 5 Shags, 5 Redbills |}Sick and Fuegians. | | 25 | 5 Shags, 3 Steamers |} | +---------+-----------------------------+-------------------------------+

* * * * *

{592}

{593}

INDEX.

Adelaide (Tender) granted, 107 proceedings, 108, 110, 111 goes to look for San Sebastian Channel, 122-124 return to Port Famine, 140 sent to Cayetano Island, loses boat, 142-143 in Bougainville Harbour, 145 further proceedings, 149, 151, 182, 183 suffers from gale in River Plata, 191 detention, 192-196 goes to Magdalen Channel, 197, 212, 213, 217, 241, 248 proceedings, 251-257 at Chilóe, 258 proceedings, 258-268 repaired, 300 sails to Gulf of Peñas, 301 arrives at Port Famine, 321 sails with Adventure to Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro, 322 particulars of her last cruise, 323-358 left as tender to flag-ship, 462. Adventure, leaves River Plata, 1 at Sta. Elena, 2-6 anchors near Cape Fairweather, 7 enters Strait of Magalhaens, 12 passes First Narrow, 15 in Gregory Bay, 16 passes Second Narrow, 20 in Freshwater Bay, 22 at Port Famine, 25-84 in Laredo Bay, 85 in Gregory Bay, 85-104 at Rio de Janeiro, 105 goes to Santos, Sta. Catharina, Monte Video, thence to southward, 106, 107 re-enters Strait, in Possession Bay, 109 in Gregory Bay, 111 in Port Famine, 117 scurvy on board, 144 leaves Port Famine, 182 enters River Plata, Brazilian squadron, 186, 187 at Rio de Janeiro, 188 in pampero, 189, 190 at Port Desire, 192 in Sea-Bear Bay, 193 goes to Staten Land, 197 St. Martin Cove, 198 at Valparaiso Bay, 207 at Chilóe, 210 at Valparaiso, goes to Juan Fernandez, 302 at Concepcion, 308 enters Strait of Magalhaens, 311 in Playa Parda, 312 Fortescue Bay, 313 reaches Port Famine, 315 departs finally, 321 at Rio de Janeiro, 322 arrival in England, 462. Admiralty Sound, glaciers, weather, Indians, passages, description of shores, 56-59. Agnes Islands, rocks, dangers, 380. Agüeros, boundaries of Chilóe, 271 description of Piraguas, 285 quoted on climate, 294, 295 account of missionary voyages, 327-329. Ainsworth, Mr., goes to survey Port San Antonio, drowned, burial-place, 63-64. Aldunate, takes Chilóe, Yntendente of the province, 299 anecdote, 300 goes in Adventure to Valparaiso, 302. Alerse, good qualities of wood, difficult to obtain, 282-283. _Anas specularis_, 117. Ancon Sin Salida (of Sarmiento), 262 Adelaide there, weather, traced, 347. Andres San, canal (of Sarmiento), disappointment, 339. _Anser Nigricollis_, 352. Anson, Juan Fernandez, 307. Antonio San, Port, Cordova's account, vegetation, 126 humming-birds, {594} weather, 127, 128 detention there, 133-135. _Apterodytes Magellanica_, 5. Araucanian Indians, dress, 309 meeting, 310, 311. _Araucaria imbricata_, 311. _Argonauta tuberculosa_, found in maw of dolphin, containing _Octopus Ocythöe_, 106, 107. Ariel Rocks, supposed, search for, meeting of currents gave rise to false report of their existence, 460, 461. Asses' ears, 12. Aymond Mount, 12.

Barbara Channel, islands, rocks, tides, 256. Barbara Santa, Port, 164 oak-beam, supposed Wager's, found, 165 mountains, island, productions, wigwams, weather, 166, 167. Barnevelt Islands, 436. Barometer, 41 observations for height of Mount Tarn, 42, 43 for weather, 144, 149 before pampero, 189, 191 observations, 202, 203, 210 for height of Mountain de la Cruz, 244 attention to, 371 changes, 426, 427, 429, 465, 466, 467. Beagle, leaves Monte Video, 1 at Sta. Elena, 7 approaches Strait of Magalhaens, 13 passes First Narrow, 15 at Gregory Bay, 16 at Port Famine, 25 prepared to go to West part of Straits, and sails, 26, 28 anxiety for, arrival, 65 proceedings, currents, squalls, doubles Cape Froward, leaves Port Gallant, Cape Tamar, danger, difficulties, dangerous service, 68-80 sails from Pert Famine for Monte Video, 85 goes thence to Rio de Janeiro, 105 ordered to Port Desire, 108 protracted absence, arrival at Port Famine, 119 sails again, 129 return, 151 proceedings during absence, dangers off Parallel Peak, sufferings of crew, at Port Santa Barbara, Port Henry, Port Otway, perilous situation in Channel's mouth, sufferings of crew, at Port Otway for recovery, 154-181 injured during pampero in River Plata, 190 sails thence, 191 at Port Desire, 192 in Sea-Bear Bay, 195 proceedings from, 212 to, arrival at Chilóe, 250 sails for Tierra del Fuego, 300 at Rio de Janeiro, 322 proceedings during absence, weather, anchorage, gales, boat stolen, critical accident, in Good Success Bay, at Monte Video, returns to England, 360-462. Bell Cape, tide-race, rocks, 448, 456. Bellaco Rock, unsuccessful search for, 109 found and examined, 120. Black River, branch of San Tadeo River, 328 rapid currents, obstructions, shores, glaciers, 329. Blanco Cape, shoals off, 108. Boat upset, lives lost, 63, 64 boat stolen, 142, 143 yawl lost, 180 another boat lost, 193 boats in danger, 231 whale-boat stolen near Cape Desolation, 391 basket-like substitute described, 392 boat building, 407 finished, 423. Borja Bay, weather, williwaws, 247, 312. Bougainville, 10, 35, 39, 69 memorial, 70, 71 on Patagonians, 99, 101. Bougainville Harbour, 122, 145, 146. Breaker Bay, 373, 374. Buckland Mount, 51. Bueno Port, its excellence, productions, 340, 341. Burney Mount, 260. Bynoe, Mr., excursion, 214 volunteer in Adelaide, 217, 241 meets Indians, 255 volunteers again in Adelaide, 301, 359. Byron, Commodore, notice of Sedger River, 38 of Patagonians, 99 of cave near Port Otway, 323 endeavour to trace steps of his party after loss of Wager, account of circumstances connected with it, 324-329 his description of Montrose Island, 325. Bowen, Mr., ascends Mountain de la Cruz, 69.

Campana Island, bad weather, danger of Beagle, 161, 163. Candish, arrival in the Strait, 33 conduct to settlers, gives the name of Port Famine, 34. Canqueña, or Cagge, 288, 289. (Note.) {595} Carlos San, de Chilóe, 249 anchorage, position, 274 buildings, woods, 275 piraguas, 284-286. Cascade Bay, 219. Cavia, by some called hare, 5. Centurion, 303, 304, 307. Chama, 306. Channel's mouth, anchorage, weather, surf, 178 desolate scene, perils, squalls, 179 inlets near, gales, tides, 330. Chanticleer at Monte Video, 187 at St. Martin Cove, 198 sails thence, 205. _Charadrius rubecola_, 41. Charles Islands, surveyed, 315. Chilóe, position, extent, population, 271, 272 government, troops, 273 cultivation, peasantry, 276 manners, morals, 277 schools, language, produce, 278 manufactures, exports, imports, 279 varieties of wood, 280, 281 log roads, 283 ploughs, 286 soil, 287 forced contributions, birds, 288 shell-fish, 290 mode of cooking, 291 anecdote, 293 climate, 294-296 struggles against Chile, 298. Cholgua (_Mytilus Magellanicus_, Lamarck), 290. Choro (_Mytilus choras_, Molina), 290. Cockburn Channel, 254. _Coleoptera_, a few species at Sta. Elena, 6. _Concholepas Peruviana_, used as drinking cups, 167. Condor, size, accounts of Molina and Humboldt, 185. _Crepidula_, one species at Sta. Elena, 6. Cruz, de la, mountain, ascended, 69 memorials found, 70, 71 ascended again, 243, 244 its height, 314. _Cygnus Anatodoides_, 359.

_Dasyprocta_ (agouti), 5. _Dasypus Minutus_, of D'Azara, 5. Deer, on Point Sta. Anna, 48 track near Obstruction Sound, 353 many more observed, 354 supposed of a novel species, 355. Desire, Port, examined, 120, 192, 195, 349 quince found there, tides, 460. Diego Ramirez Islets, 434 climate, 435. Diego San, Cape, strong tide, 453 coast near, 456. Dislocation Harbour, 364. Dogs, 46, 52, 62, 76, 89, 137 fine one (Fuegian), 148, 216 small-sized, 238 at Juan Fernandez, 304 fine Fuegian dog, 444 one like young lion, 448. Doris Cove, weather, 406. Dungeness Point, 12.

Eagle Bay, 35, 37, 48. Easter Bay, 348, 349. Elena, Sta. Port, arrival there, coast, 2 bad weather, fossil oyster-shells, 4 animals and birds, 5 scarcity of fish, trees, traces of natives, departure, 6. Englefield Island, 225. Estevan San, channel of, tides, 265. Evangelists, or Isles of Direction, 156. Eyre, Sir George, Sound, glaciers, whales, seal, icebergs, 337.

Fairweather, Cape, gale near, singular error, 7 abundance of fish, 8, 9 departure from, 9, 120. Falkner, the Jesuit, description of Patagonians, 86, 87 funeral ceremonies, 113 graves, 196. Famine, Port, 26 former Spanish colony, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33 named by Candish, 34 shells, 37 animals, birds, 38 fishing, 39 preparations and departure, 84 re-visited, 117 events there during absence, 118 weather, 119 winter, 142 floods, lightning, 144 scurvy, 145 effects of weather, 149, 150 Beagle there, 216 Adventure there, 315 finally quitted, 321. Felipe, San, Spanish settlement under Sarmiento, Viedma, 31, 32 abandoned, now Port Famine, 34. _Felis pajaros_, 117. Fire, at Port Sta. Elena, 3 at Port Famine, 83 boat and sheds destroyed by Fuegians, 118, at Port Desire, 193, 194 in Gregory Bay, 213 traces of near Level Bay, 336. {596} Fitz-Roy, Robert, Commander, appointed to Beagle, 188 proceedings at Port Desire, 195 explores Jerome Channel, 221 scenery, 222 Indian Channel, 224 narrow escape, 232 at Port Gallant, 240 search for passage into Skyring Water, 248 at Chilóe, 250 leaves San Carlos, 360 goes to relieve party in distress, 369 excursion to Cape Gloucester, 376, 377 search for lost boat, 393-404 remarks on Tierra del Fuego, 410 excursion in boat, bad weather, gales, 418 proceedings and return on board, 419, 423 further proceedings to return to England, 423, 462. Fortescue Bay, 132, 313, 315. Foster, Henry, Captain, meeting with, 187 arrangements, 188 in St. Martin Cove, 198 sails thence, 205 some account of his death, 206. Fox, at Sta. Elena, 5 curious chase of one, 193. Freshwater Bay, 22 vegetation, 25. Freyre, attacks and takes Chilóe, 298, 299. Froward, Cape, 69 described, 145. Fuegians, first seen, wigwams, numbers, 23 dress, food, character, 24 near Cape Rowlett, manners, curious anecdote, 53, 54 weapons, skill, 55 barter in Magdalen Channel, 61 conduct, 62 in Harbour of Mercy, 74 description of persons, ornaments, food, habitations, domestic ties, affection, 75, 76, 77 at Port San Antonio, 128 behaviour, appearance, cunning, 129 in Warrington Cove, 135 visits, canoes, 137 carving, 138 natives at Port Famine, mischievous, 141 near Point Santa Anna, 147 troublesome, 148 met again, 216 near Otway Water, 226 paint, cunning, 227 anecdote, 234 abuse, 238 in Fortescue Bay, plank canoes, 'Pecheray,' anecdote, 313 curious circumstances, 315 at Port Famine, misconduct, 316 precautions, quarrel, 317, 318 driven away, caution, 319, 320 met by Adelaide's boat's crew, curious notices, habits, theft, 342, 344 few in number, 345 at Landfall Island, 367 conduct to party in distress, arms, bird-catching, 370 near Otway Bay, living among tame seals, 372 traces on Noir Island, 388 steal whale-boat, 391 met with, 394 further meetings, boat's gear found, 395 various incidents connected with natives, 396, 397 thieves' family seized, 398 another party met, 399 guides escape, 401 other meetings, 402, 403 three children left on board Beagle, 404 two of them restored, natives in March Harbour, young man detained, 409 disturbance in March Harbour, 412 skirmish, 413 their strength and daring, 'York-minster,' 415 'Boat memory,' 'Fuegia Basket,' 416 conduct of Fuegians on board to other natives, 427, 428 'Yapoos' mode of fishing, 428 natives near Nassau Bay, skins, wigwams, 429 without arms, tractable, 430 in Murray Narrow, large wigwam, food, 440 'Jemmy Button,' 445 in Valentyn Bay, dogs, 448. Fury Harbour, wreck of Saxe Coburg, 66 described, 380 examined, 384 rocks, 386.

Gabriel Channel, 49 weather, 50 squalls called 'williwaws,' 59. _Gadus_, 9. Gales, usual direction, 162, 163 observations, 235 usual course of, 391. Gallant, Port, 131, 132 humming-birds, natives, 134, 135, 220, 241. Gallegos River, 9 tides, 120. Geology of country near Port Sta. Elena, 3 Cape Fairweather, 7, 8 Mount Sarmiento, 27 Mount Tarn, 44 Port Waterfall, 52 Admiralty Sound, 59 Gabriel Channel, 60 near Second Narrow, 112 Cape Froward and Port Gallant, 131 Mount Maxwell, 136 Tower Rock, 192 Cape Horn, St. Martin Cove, 204 Juan Fernandez, 305 Grafton Islands, 375 Cape Castlereagh, Doris Cove, 410. Gilbert Islands, Doris Cove, 406. Glaciers, 51, 57, 140, 237, 252, 337, 339, 442. Gloucester, Cape, 373, 374 excursion to, weather, 376 natives, produce, 377. Graves, Mr., goes in Hope, 28 proceedings, 45, 46, 47 {597} surveys Lomas Bay, 63 sails again in Hope, 65 returns, 80 appointed to Adelaide tender, 107 in Gregory Bay, 110, 111 in Port Gallant, 134, 136 detached, 142 loss of boat, 142, 143 at Bougainville Harbour, 145, 146 with Patagonians, 149, 151 at Port Gallant, 241 honourable trait, 242 journal, 251-257 near Cape Upright, 258 goes to Chilóe, 268. Gregory Bay, Beagle joins Adventure there, 16 gales, mirage, Patagonians, 85 scenery, productions, fires, 111 natives, 183. Guanacoes, 3, 4, 5 near Cape Orange, 15 in Gregory Bay, 111 bezoar-stone, 117 mode of hunting them, 151 unusual chase, 193 near Sea-Bear Bay, 194 very large ones seen near Windhond Bay, 439 numerous near Aguirre Bay, 446. Guayaneco Islands, 167, 331. Guyot Duclos, 10, 22 notice of natives, 99 skirmish with natives, 320.

Henry, Port, 159 productions, scenery, 160, 161. Hermite Island, remarkable peaks, survey, 207. Hope, Mount, 56, 57, 58. Hope, decked boat, 26 crew, sails on survey, 28 proceedings, meets Fuegians in Brenton Sound, 45, 46 passage back to Port Famine, 47 repaired, 48 goes to Eagle Bay, into Gabriel Channel, 49 further proceedings, 50-63 sails again, 65 goes with Captain King, 80 further proceedings, 82. Horn, Cape, ascent of highest point, memorial left, 432 weather, 433. Horn Island, 432. _Hymenoptera_, at Port Sta. Elena, 6.

Icebergs, field of ice, 175, 337, 442. Icy Sound, glaciers, avalanches, 140. Ildefonsos, 424. Indian Channel, bivouac, weather, 223. Island Harbour, 333 weather, 334.

Jerome Channel, 221 scenery, 222. Jesuit Sound, explored, 329. Juan Fernandez, 302 establishment, productions, 303 dogs, goats, fish, buccaneers, 304 botany, trees, fruits, 305, 306 shells, coral, anchorage, 306 animals, seals, birds, 307 excursions, thermometer, 308.

Kater Peak, ascended, 200, 201, 202 again, 433, 434. Kelp, or sea-weed, its great use, 13 immense growth, 363. Kelp fish, excellent food, 199. Kelly Harbour, 175. Kempe, Lieut., excursions, 214, 409 in chase of Fuegians, 412, 413 promptness, 423, 432 left in charge of Beagle, 437 vigilance, 445, 449. Kempe Harbour, 218. Kirke, Mr., goes in Adelaide, 217, 241, 242 ascends Mount Skyring, 253 near Cape Tamar, 258 sails again in Adelaide, 301 examines the Channel's Mouth, 330 zealous exertion, 333 examines Sir George Eyre Sound, 337 further proceedings, 338, 339 traces Canal of the Mountains, 347, 348 Worsley Sound, 349 disappointments, 350, 359 further examinations, 354-357.

Latitude Bay, 368 advantages, 370. Laura Basin, 375. Leeward Bay, 347. Lennox Harbour, 437 natives, 449. _Lepidoptera_, a few species at Port Sta. Elena, 6. _Liévre pampa_, of D'Azara, 5. Lizards, 6. Lobos, Port, 2. Lomas Bay, 63. Loyasa's voyage quoted, 96. Lucia Santa, Cape, coast near, 157. Lyndsey, Serjeant, death of, 176 burial, 177.

Magalhaens, Strait of, voyage to explore, under Don Antonio de Cordova, 9 account of bad weather, confirmed by Wallis and Carteret, 10 difference in spelling name, 11 vegetation of Strait, 22 animals, 23 scenery, 51 {598} whales, &c., 131 climate, 141 re-passed, 186 entered again, 311 finally quitted, 322. Magdalen Channel, 60 anchorage, scenery, 61 examined, 251 directions, 252. Magnetic influence, unusual, 199, 200, 204, 382, 383, 384, 385. Maire Le, Strait, tides in, 455, 456. Malaspina, at Port Sta. Elena in 1798, 2. March Harbour, 408, 424. Maria, a Patagonian, first interview with, 18 at Gregory Bay, 85, 86 visits ships, 88 obtains guanaco meat for them, interview with on shore, 89 acts as priestess, 90 cupidity, 92 'toldo,' 93 disappointment, 104 cordial meeting with, presents, 114 importunity, anecdote, 115 scene in toldo, 116 re-visited, 183. Marian Cove, 71. Martin St. Cove, 198 weather, ascent of Kater Peak, 200, 201, 202 gales and williwaws, 203. Maxwell, Port, 199. Mesier Channel, entrance to, 331 entered by Adelaide, 333 anchorages, shores, trees, 334 scarcity of inhabitants, 345. Millar, Alexander Mr., death of, 321. Misery Mount, 234. Mitchell, Lieut., activity, 301, 317, 319. Montes Tres, Cape, 167, 168, 169, 322. Morton Island, 420 tide between it and Gold-dust Isle, 421. Mountains, canal of the, 347. Morrion El, 238. _Muræna_, near Cape Fairweather, 9. Murray, Mr, accident, 364 goes to E. end of Landfall Islands, 368 in distress, 369 goes to Euston Bay, 375-378 goes to Cape Desolation, bad weather, 390 severe gales, return anxiously looked for, sends coxswain back in basket-like canoe, 391 loss of whale-boat, 393 search for her, 401, 402, 403 goes away again, 407 penetrates into channels leading from Christmas Sound, 417 goes to head of Nassau Bay, 427 discovers Beagle Channel, 429 natives, 430 goes towards Cape Good Success, 437 extract from journal, natives near Cape Graham, difficulties, 446, 447, 448. Muscle Bay, 332. _Murex_ at Port Sta. Elena, 6 (_Magellanicus_) brought up by lead, 13 found in Eagle Bay, 37. _Mytilus_, at Port Sta. Elena, 6 at Port Gallant, 133. _Mytilus choras_, at Chilóe 290. _Mytilus Magellanicus_, at Chilóe, 290.

Narborough, Sir John, quoted, 4, 5, 25, 76 notice of Patagonians, 99, 123, 192. Narrow, English, described, 335, 336. Narrow, First, passage attempted, 14 cleared, tides, 15 passed again, 110, 111 tide-race before filtering, 322. Narrow, Guia, tides, 265 passed by Adelaide, 340. Narrow, Kirke, 347 prospect after leaving it, 348 tides, errors, wider channel, 349 plan of Narrow, singular eddies, 356, 357. Narrow, Murray, tides, shores, natives, woods, 439, 440 channels near, mountains, anecdote, wigwam, 441 tides, glaciers, 442 disadvantages, 443. Narrow, Second, passed, 20, 85. Narrow, Shag, 139. Narrow of San Benito, 264. Narrow, White, intricate, 347 agreeable prospect, 348. Nassau Bay, 425 master passes through it, 429 formerly Bay of St. Francis, errors in charts, 433 further examined, 438. Nautical remarks, gales on the eastern coast of Patagonia, entrance of Strait of Magalhaens, 463 Staten Island, New Year Islands, 464 passage round Cape Horn, barometer, 465 barometer off Cape Horn, 466, 467 directions for passage through Strait, 468 anchorages, 469, 470 advantage of passing Strait from Pacific to Atlantic, 471, 472 further directions, 473, 474, 475. Neesham Bay, Indians near, 267. Negro Cape, 21, 22, 24, 215. {599} New Year Sound, 419, 420. Nodales, voyage of the, 7, 99 Bellaco Rock, 109 San Sebastian Channel, 122, 123 discovered Sea-Bear Bay, 193. Noir Island, roadstead, penguins, 387 Tower Rocks, 388. North Cove, 382.

Obstruction Sound, tides, 352 remarks, 352. _Oidemia Patachonica_, 35. Oliver Islands, 351. _Ophidium_, near Cape Fairweather, 8. Orange Bay, 426, 427 anchorage, productions, 430. _Orthoceratite_, fossil resembling an, Rocky Bay, 321. Osorio Pedro, at Chilóe, Byron, 'Desecho,' 327. _Ostrea Edulis_, at Chilóe, 291. _Ostrea_, fossil at Port Sta. Elena, 4. Otway, Port, 169 weather, woods, 170 trees, soil, birds, 323. Otway Water, 224.

Pampero, 189, 190. Parallel Peak, 163, 164. Patagonians, near Gregory Bay, 16 size, friendliness, dress, weapons, three go in Adventure to Cape Negro, native names, 20 appearance described, 21 met again in Gregory Bay, animals with them, 85 account of various tribes, 86, 87 go on board ships, intoxication, 88 trade, 89 religious ceremony, 90, 91 toldos, 92 utensils, 93 tomb, father's grief, women, occupations, 94 parental affection, anecdotes, 95 their size, 96 former accounts compared, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102 character, 103 contempt for Fuegians, 104 fires, 110 tomb in Gregory Bay re-visited, 112 natives arrive, traffic, 113 cordial meeting, 114 natives on board, 116 in Pecket Harbour, hunting, 151, 152 seen again, toldos, 183 Portuguese sailors living with them, native language, 184 observed again in passing Gregory Bay, 321. Patagonian Cavy, 5. _Patella deaurata_, at Port Sta. Elena, 6. _Patella trochi-formis_, 13. Paul's, St., dome of, 169. Pecheray, Fuegian expression, anecdotes, 313, 314, 315 mentioned again, 320. Pecket Harbour, 151, 183, 184, 213. _Pecten vitreus_, in Eagle Bay, 37. Penguins, 387 mode of feeding young, 388. _Phalacrocorax Imperialis_, 359. _Phoca Jubata_, food of Fuegians, 24. Pico, 292. Pillar, Cape, 79, 311, 361 mountains near, 375 tide, 455. Pinoleo, Araucanian Cacique, account of meeting near Concepcion, daughters, their dress, ornaments, reception from him, his appearance, 309 followers, intoxication, 310. Pinto, General, Director of Chile, 209. Piure, remarkable appearance, 292. Plata, River, Brazilian Squadron, confusion, mistake, 186 severe 'pampero,' effects, 189, 190 gales, 191 currents, 461. Playa Parda, 312. _Polyborus Novæ Zealandiæ_, 143. Possession, Cape, 12 tides, 13, 15 detention, 109 weather, 110. _Psittacus smaragdinus_, near Port Famine, 39.

Quintin San, Sound, 174, 175 Adelaide there, 324. Quod, Cape, 247.

Roldan Campana de, 27. Rundle Passage, 322. Rupert Island, rocks, weather, 246.

Saddle Island, magnetic, needle much affected, scenery, whales, kelp-fish, 199. Santiago, journey to, 207, 208 weather, 210. Sarmiento, 26 sent to look for Sir Francis Drake, enters Strait, 29 sails to form establishments, 30 {600} marks out city, colonists' sufferings, goes to Rio de Janeiro, 31 disappointments, taken to England, 32 his account of natives near Useless Bay, 125 Campana de Roldan, 130 discovery of Gulf of Trinidad, 158, 159 his 'Abra' opposite Playa Parda, 312 quoted, 340. Sarmiento channel, passed, 341 discoveries, 342 course followed, 346. Sarmiento Mount, first appearance, 26 height, 27, 28 seen again, 130, 147, 252. Saxe Cobourg, Prince of, wrecked in Fury Harbour, 66 crew's sufferings, saved by Beagle, 67. Sea-Bear Bay, 6 described by Nodales, 193 animals, birds, 195. Seal, teaching their young to swim, 422. Sebastian San, Channel supposed, noticed by Nodales, 122 various voyagers' opinions, 123 vain search, 458. Sedger River, mouth changes, remarks, 37 trees, 38. Shags (corvorants), nests on trees in Courtenay Sound, 404. Sholl, Robert Lieut., interview with natives, 23, 24, 65 death of, 121. Skyring, Lieut., 77, 78, 165 takes command of Beagle, 182 superseded, 188 takes command of Adelaide, goes to survey Magdalen, Cockburn, and Barbara Channels, reaches Port Gallant, 241 part company near Cape Upright, 249 meets Indians, 256 near Cape Upright, 258 searches for 'Ancon Sin Salida' of Sarmiento, 261 natives, 262 tides, 263 weather, 264 his journal, 266 sails for gulf of Peñas, 301 journal of proceedings, 323 examines River San Tadeo, 327 proceedings, 328 returns to Adelaide, 329 illness, 333 officers' proceedings, 346 resumes duty, 347 disappointments, 350, 351 excellence of charts, 386. Skyring Mount, ascent, memorial, 253, 254 described, strong local attraction, effect on compasses, 382, 383 view from it, 383. Skyring Water, 228 tides, land, birds, 229. Skunk, or Zorillo, 184, 185. Smyth Channel, 259 fish, 260 survey, 261. Snakes at Port Sta. Elena, 6. Snowy Sound, 237. Speedwell Bay, abundance of wild-fowl, crabs, potatoes, trees, 332. Spencer Cape, 431, 435. Steamer-Duck, or Race-Horse, 35, 36. Stewart Harbour described, its advantages, 406. Stokes, Pringle Captain, commands Beagle, 2, 18, 26, 28 rescues crew of shipwrecked vessel, 65 journal, 67 to 80 dangerous cruise, 73 skill and daring, 77 rides to Patagonian toldos, 92 ordered to Port Desire, 108 arrival at Port Famine, 119 proceedings during absence, 121 sails again, 124 describes Bougainville Harbour, 146 returns to Port Famine, sufferings, illness, 150, 151 death, 153 unfinished journal, 154-181. Stokes, Mr. goes to explore Jerome Channel, 221, 225 narrow escape, 232, 233 examines Hope Harbour, 382 Fury Harbour, 384, 445. Success Good, Cape, 445, 448 shores, anchorage in bay, swell, 450 gales, 451.

Tadeo San, River, 323, 327, 328. Tamar Cape, weather off, 72 Beagle in Bay of, 73 returns three times, 74. Tarn, Mr., 4 excursion to Eagle Bay, 35 ascends Mount Tarn, 40, 42 interview with natives, 61 summit of Table Land, 111 Laredo Bay, 117 in Adelaide, 143, 149 with Patagonians, 151 signal-fire, guanacoes, 194. Tarn Mount, ascent of, 40 temperature, observations, descent, 42, 43. Teal found at Port Sta. Elena, 5. Tower Rock near Port Desire, remarkable, Narborough's description, 192. Tower Rocks, off Noir Island, 388. Tower, rock like, near Aguirre Bay, 447. Trinidad Sanctisima, Golfo de la, 158. Tres Puntas Cape, 158, 161. {601} _Trochilus_ at Juan Fernandez, 307.

Ulloa, Don J. Juan, y Don A. de, their account of the anchorage at Juan Fernandez, 306. 'Ultimo Viage al estrecho de Magallanes,' quoted, 10, 27, 57, 101. Upright, Cape, 71 bay, 155 weather, 258. Useless Bay, 124 natives near, 125.

Valdivia de, Don Pedro, founds cities, 269 Indians destroy them, settlers migrate, 270. Valentyn Hay, natives, 448. Valparaiso, 207, 210. Vicente San, Bay, 453. Viedma Andres de, at San Felipe, 32 wrecked, return, distresses, 33, 34. Video Monte, departure from, 1 return to, and sail from, 105 revisited, meeting with Captain Foster at, 187 gales in leaving, 191 return there, 322 finally quitted, 462. Virgins Cape, 12, 105, 109.

Wager, loss of, 324 to 327, 331. Warrington cove, 135 geology, 136 productions, 139. Waterfall Bay, weather, tides, 334. Waterfall, Port, 51-52. Weddell's Leading Hill, 418, 421. Whales, dead, mistaken for rocks, 107, 380. White Kelp Cove, fish, birds, 335. William, Cape, 158. Wickham Lieut., takes command of Hope, 28 meets Indians, 45 returns to Port Famine, 47 in Gregory Bay, 111 obtains curious birds, 117 at Port Famine, 141 goes to Patagonians, 149 ill, 152 goes overland to Port Desire, 195 at Santiago, 207, 210. Williwaws, 50, 203. Wilson, Mr., goes to Landfall Island, 368, 369, 376 good drawings, 383 natives, 409, 413 sketches of coast, 436. Woodcock Mount, 139-140. Wreck found in Port Sta. Elena, 2 in Fury Harbour (of Saxe Cobourg), 66, 67.

Xavier San Island, 176 examined further, 329. Xavier Port, woods, water, birds, 176. Xaultegua, Gulf of, curious islet, frost and snow, 247.

York-Minster of Cook, noticed, 407 mark for March Harbour, 408, 411. 'Yungue' (Juan Fernandez), height, woods, squalls, 302, 303.

Zorillo, 184, 185.

END OF VOL. I.

* * * * *

LONDON: Printed by J. L. COX and SONS, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields.

* * * * *

NOTES

[1] Excepting one for signals.

[2] Twelve additional seamen having been ordered, by the Admiralty, for the Adelaide schooner.

[3] On the north side of the river Plata.

[4] Commonly called Magellan. See p. 11.

[5] _Dasyprocta patachonica_: it is the _Patagonian cavy_ of Dr. Shaw, and Pennant's Quadr., tab. 39, and the _liévre pampa_ of D'Azara. M. Desmarest thinks that if the teeth were examined it would form a new genus, for which he proposes the name of _Dolichotis_ (Ency. Meth. Mamm. p. 359). At present he has, from its external character, placed it amongst the genus _Dasyprocta_ (agouti). The only one that was taken was not preserved, which prevented me from ascertaining the fact.

[6] _Dasypus minutus_, Desm. _Tatou pichiy_, or _tatou septième_ of D'Azara, &c. &c. It has seven bands.

[7] A similar error was made by one of the ships of the fleet under Loyasa in the year 1525. The Nodales also, in their description of the coast, mention the similarity of appearance in the two capes, Virgins and Fairweather. "Y venido de mar en fuera à buscar la tierra facilmente podian hacer de Rio de Gallegos el Cabo de Virgenes," (and in making the land Cape Virgins may easily be mistaken for the river Gallegos).--Viage de los Nodales, p. 53.

[8] Some of the specimens of the clay strata consist, according to Dr. Fitton, who has kindly examined my collection, of a white marl not unlike certain varieties of the lower chalk; and of a clay having many of the properties of fuller's earth. The pebbles on the beach consist of quartz, red jasper, hornstone, and flinty slate, but do not contain any stone resembling chalk flint.

[9] Dr. Fitton considers these masses of clay to bear a resemblance to the upper green sand of England.

[10] Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes, part ii. p. 298.

[11] A hill on the north shore of Possession Bay, having near it, to the westward, four rocky summits, which, from a particular point of view, bear a strong resemblance to the cropped ears of a horse or ass. These are described less briefly in the Sailing Directions.

[12] Flowing into the strait from the east towards the west.

[13] Fucus giganteus.

[14] Usually called by seamen 'kelp.'

[15] Columns of smoke rising from large fires.

[16] Berberis.

[17] Previous to the expedition quitting England, I had provided myself with medals, to give away to the Indians with whom we might communicate, bearing on one side the figure of Britannia, and on the reverse George IV. "Adventure and Beagle," and "1826."

[18] Narborough, p. 67.

[19] Ultimo Viage, p. 120.

[20] From an attentive perusal of the voyage of Magalhaens, I have lately been led to think that this is the mountain which Magalhaens called Roldan's Bell. Sarmiento has, however, assigned that name to a mountain at the back of his Bay of Campana, which will be noticed in it's proper place. The name of Mount Sarmiento was too long, and too well established with us, or I should have restored the name bestowed upon it by Magalhaens. Herrera, in his Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales, cap. xxiii, notices the "Campana de Roldan" as a great mountain in the midst of the entrance of a channel; they gave it this name (Campana de Roldan) because one of Magalhaens's companions, named Roldan, an artillery officer, went to examine it. "Y la Campana de Roldan una Peña grande en medio al principio de un canal: dieron le este nombre porque la fué a reconocer uno de los compañeros de Magallanes llamado Roldan que era artillero."

[21]

By angular measurement, with a theodolite, from the tent, the base being by diff. of lat. 297,863 feet, and allowing 1/12 of the intercepted arc for terrestrial refraction 6,864 feet.

By angular measure with sextant (index error, dip, and 1/12 of the intercepted arc being allowed) the base being 290,074 feet 7,237

By angular measurement, with a theodolite, from Warp Bay, by Lieuts. Skyring and Graves 6,800 ------ Mean 6,967 feet, ------

but as the last observation, from the angle of elevation being greater, was more likely to be correct, 6,800 feet is considered to be its elevation.

[22] At a subsequent visit, embracing a period of 190 days, it was only seen on twenty-five, and during seven days only was it constantly visible. On the remaining eighteen, portions only were seen, and those but for a few hours at a time.

[23] Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 25.

[24] Id. l.c.

[25] See Burney, ii. p. 45, for a fuller account; also id. 71.

[26] Who made a remark on the occasion, which became proverbial, "that if a ship carried out only anchors and cables, sufficient for her security against the storms in that part of the world, she would go well laden." Burney Coll. vol. ii. 45.

[27] Burney, ii. 51.

[28] The situation of "Jesus" must have been about half-way between the First and Second Narrow, near the point named in the chart N.S. de Valle, where some peaked elevations, dividing vallies near the coast line, are conspicuous. The Beagle anchored there, and found plenty of fresh water.

[29] Close to Port Famine.

[30] From Sarmiento's description of the coast, Point Santa Brigida is the outward point of Nassau Island.(a) See Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 220.

[31] Formerly spelled 'Candish.'

[32] "Near to Port Famine they took on board a Spaniard, who was the only one then remaining alive of the garrison left in the Strait by Sarmiento. The account given by this man, as reported by Magoths, is, that he had lived in those parts six years, and was one of the four hundred men sent thither by the King of Spain in the year 1582, to fortify and inhabit there, to hinder the passage of all strangers that way into the South Sea. But that town (San Felipe) and the other Spanish colony being destroyed by famine, he said he had lived in a house, by himself, a long time, and relieved himself with his caliver(b) until our coming thither." Burney, ii. p. 96. This man died on the voyage to Europe. Id. p. 97.

[33] So named by Bougainville.

[34] It belongs to the group which M. Temminck has lately named _Hylobates_, without attending to the name long since conferred upon it by Dr. Fleming. I designated it _Oidemia Patachonica_, from its large dimensions, in my communication upon the Ornithology of the Straits. Zoological Journal, vol. iv. p. 100. On my return to England, I found that M. de Freycinet had figured this bird, in the account of his last voyage in l'Uranie, where it is described by Messrs. Quoy and Gaimard under the name of _Micropterus brachypterus_.

[35] Cook's Second Voyage, 4to. p. 570.

[36] On the shores of Eagle Bay we procured a large collection of shells, among which were _Margarita violacea_ (Nob. in Zool. Journ. v. 346, No. 53), a beautiful _Modiola_ (_M. trapesina_, Lam.^k), a new _Pecten_ (P. vitreus Nob. in Zool. Jour. v. 337, No. 17), and a delicate transparent-shelled _Patella_, answering the description of _P. cymbularia_. These four species were found attached to floating leaves of the kelp (_Fucus giganteus_), and afford food to the steamer-duck. We also collected good specimens of _Murex Magellanicus_, Lam.^k, of _Fissurella picta_, Lam.^k, and a great number of the common patella of the Strait, which forms a considerable article of food for the Natives.

[37] Byron's Voyage round the World, 4to. p. 38.

[38] l. c.

[39] _Psittacus smaragdinus_, Gmel. I have no doubt that the bird we saw is the same as Bougainville procured, and from which a description has been given in the Ency. Méth., art. Ornith. 139; although a material error is made, for they are not _splendidé viridis_, nor is the _uropygium_ red, in other points, however, the description is correct. See Buffon's Hist. Nat. des Oiseaux, vi. 262. Pl. enl. n. 85, Perruche des Terres Magellaniques.

[40] Bougainville says, "we have likewise perceived some perrokeets: the latter are not afraid of the cold." To which the English translator, T. R. Forster, who is incredulous of the correctness of Bougainville's assertion, appends the following note: "Perruches, probably sea-parrots, or auks." Buffon also doubted the fact, and the author of Histoire Naturelle, art. Oiseaux, tom. ii. p. 322, suggests the possibility of a specimen having been obtained in some other part of the world, and put, by mistake, amongst those collected in the Strait.

[41] So named because Mr. Tarn, the surgeon of the Adventure, was the first person who reached its summit.

[42] The height of this place, as shown by the barometer, on the ascent, was 941 feet, and, on the descent, 973 feet.

[43] On this table-land the barometer stood at 27,767. Temperature of the air 46°,5, and of the mercury 47°,5, which gave the elevation 1,327 feet.

[44] The result of the barometric observation for the height of Mount Tarn is as follows:

Height by one barometer { ascent 2,567.7 } { descent 2,625.4 } mean 2,596.5 feet. Do. two do. { ascent 2,619.3 } { descent 2,596.7 } -- 2,608.0 ------- 2,602.2 -------

By angular measurement from Observation Cove, Port Famine, with theodolite, allowing 1/12 of the intercepted arc for terrestrial refraction, the height is 2,850 feet.

Another observation, with the sextant, made it 2,855 feet. The mean 2,852 I consider more correct, from the difficulty of obtaining a correct reading of the barometer on the summit.

[45] By Daniell's hygrometer, used in this sheltered spot, I found the temperature of the air to be 48°; dew point 41°: but upon exposing the instrument to the wind, the air was 39½°, and the dew point 36°: the difference in the former being 7°; and the latter 3½°; from which the following results are obtained:

air. dew pt. diff. exp. dryness. weight of a cubic. foot of air. In the ravine 48 41 7 292 776 3.323 Exposed to wind 39½ 36 3½ 248 898 2.871 ------------------------------------------- Difference 8½ 5 3½ 44 122 0.452

The above being the difference in the short space of three feet apart; the instrument, in the first case, being just under the lee of the rocky summit of the mountain, and in the last, above it, exposed to the wind.

[46] The air was so dry this afternoon that I failed to procure a deposit of dew upon Daniell's hygrometer, although the internal temperature was lowered from 61° to 37°. One of Jones's portable hygrometers was also tried, and the temperature was lowered to 31°½ without a deposit; so that, the difference being more than thirty degrees, the expansive force of the air must have been less than 212, the dryness, on the thermometric scale, less than 367, and the weight of vapour, in a cubic foot of air, less than 2,355 grains.

[47] Fires made to attract attention, and invite strangers to land.

[48] This fern we found at the island of Juan Fernandez also.

[49] After the lieutenant of the Adventure.

[50] At Mr. Tarn's request.

[51] King's 'Australia,' vol. i. p. 70; also vol. ii. pp. 573, 582, and 613.

[52] At high tide the sea-water undermines, by thawing, large masses of ice, which, when the tide falls, want support, and, consequently, break off, bringing after them huge fragments of the glacier, and falling into the still basin with a noise like thunder.

[53] "En los dias 24, y 25, oimos un ruido sordo, y de corta duracion, que, por el pronto, nos pareció trueno; pero habiendo reflexîonado, nos inclinamos à creer que fué efecto de alguna explosion subterranea, formado en el seno de alguna de las montañas inmediatas, en que parece haber algunos minerales, y aun volcanes, que están del todo ó casi apagados, movièndonos a hacer este juicio, el haberse encontrado, en la cima de una de ellas, porcion de materia compuesta de tierra y metal, que en su peso, color, y demas caracteres, tenia impreso el sello del fuego activo en que habia tomado aquel estado, pues era una perfecta imagèn de las escorias del hierro que se ven en nuestras ferrerías.--_Apendice al Viage de Cordova al Magallanes_, p. 65.

[54] No canvas could withstand some of these squalls, which carry spray, leaves, and dirt before them, in a dense cloud, reaching from the water to the height of a ship's lower yards, or even lower mast-heads. Happily their duration is so short, that the cable of a vessel, at anchor, is scarcely strained to the utmost, before the furious blast is over. Persons who have been some time in Tierra del Fuego, but fortunate enough not to have experienced the extreme violence of such squalls, may incline to think their force exaggerated in this description: but it ought to be considered, that their utmost fury is only felt during unusually heavy gales, and in particular situations; so that a ship might pass through the Strait of Magalhaens many times, without encountering one such blast as has occasionally been witnessed there.--R. F.

[55]

"sub rupe cavatâ Arboribus clausam circum atque horrentibus umbria."

[56] Mount Boqueron.

[57] Including the master, there were on board, when cast away, twenty-two persons.

[58] Bougainville Harbour, better known to Sealers by the name of 'Jack's Harbour.'

[59] "Voyage autour du Monde." 1767.

[60] One of the feathered tribe, which a naturalist would not expect to find here, a 'humming bird,' was shot near the beach by a young midshipman.--Stokes MS.

[61] Hawkesworth's Coll. of Voyages, vol. i. p. 76.

[62] It was here that Commodore Wallis and Captain Carteret separated, the Dolphin going round the world; the Swallow returning to England. Sarmiento's name of Puerto de la Misericordia, or 'Harbour of Mercy,' being of prior date, ought doubtless to be retained.

[63] Called the Scilly Isles.

[64] 'Anas Rafflesii,' Zool. Journ., vol. iv., and Tab. Supp., xxix.

[65] Of these a species of mactra (_M. edulis Nob._) was most abundant.

[66] Burney, i. 35 and 37.

[67] Falkner's Patagonia, pp. 110, 111.

[68] It is good to be drunk, it is pleasant to be drunk.

[69] Two Portuguese seamen, however, who had resided some months with them, having been left behind by a sealing vessel, and taken off by us at a subsequent period of the voyage at their own request, informed us that Maria is not the leader of religious ceremonies. Each family possesses its own household god, a small wooden image, about three inches in length, the rough imitation of a man's head and shoulders, which they consider as the representative of a superior being, attributing to it all the good or evil that happens to them.

[70] Burney, i. p. 33.

[71] Ibid. p. 135.

[72] Burney, i. 318.

[73] Ibid, i. 324.

[74] Sarmiento, p. 244.

[75] Sarmiento's Appendix, xxix.

[76] Purchas, iv. ch. 6 and 7.

[77] Burney, ii. p. 106.

[78] The tribes described by this boy are the

1. Kemenites, inhabiting a place called Karay. 2. Kennekas, Karamay. 3. Karaike, Morine. 4. Enoo, the tribe to which the Indians, whom they murdered, belonged.

[79] Burney, ii, 215.

[80] Ibid. ii. 334.

[81] Hawksworth's Coll. i 28.

[82] Ibid.

[83] See a letter from Mr. Charles Clarke, an officer on board the Dolphin, to Mr. Maly, M.D., secretary of the Royal Society, dated Nov. 3, 1766, read before the Royal Society on 12th April 1767, and published in the fifty-seventh volume of the Phil. Trans., part i. p. 75, in which an exaggerated account is given of this meeting. The men are described to be eight feet high, and the women seven and a half to eight feet. "They are prodigious stout, and as well and proportionably made as ever I saw people in my life." This communication was probably intended to corroborate the commodore's account.

[84] Ultimo Viage, p. 21.

[85] Falkner, according to Dean Funes, was originally engaged in the slave trade at Buenos Ayres; but afterwards became a Jesuit, and studied in the college at Cordova, where, to an eminent knowledge of medicine, he added that of theology. He is the author of a description of Patagonia, published in London after the expulsion of the Jesuits.--(_Ensayo de la Historia Civil del Paraguay, Buenos Ayres, y Tucuman, por el Doctor Don Gregorio Funes, iii. p. 23, note. Published at Buenos Ayres. 8vo. 1817._)

[86] See Dean Funes's account of Buenos Ayres, and of the Indian tribes, vol. ii. 394.

[87] We left Gregory Bay in the morning, and passed Cape Virgins in the evening of the same day.

[88] On our passage from Santos to St. Catherine's, in latitude 28° south, we caught a 'dolphin' (_Coryphena_), the maw of which I found filled with shells, of _Argonauta tuberculosa_, and all containing the '_Octopus Ocythöe_' that has been always found as its inhabitant. Most of the specimens were crushed by the narrow passage into the stomach, but the smaller ones were quite perfect, and had been so recently swallowed that I was enabled to preserve several of various sizes containing the animal. To some of them was attached a nidus of eggs, which was deposited between the animal and the spire. The shells varied in size from two-thirds of an inch to two and a half inches in length; each contained an octopus, the bulk and shape of which was so completely adapted to that of the shell, that it seemed as if the shell increased with the animal's growth. When so many learned naturalists have differed so materially as to the character of the inhabitants of the argonauta, it would be presumption in me to express even an opinion; I therefore merely mention the fact, and state that in no one specimen did there appear to be any connexion between the animal and the shell.

[89] Nodales, p. 48.

[90] Falkner says, in his account of the burial ceremonies of the southern Patagonians--that, after a certain interval, the bodies are taken out of the tomb, and skeletons are made of them by the women--the flesh and entrails having been burnt. It is possible that in this case the body had been so treated, and that the fire near it was for the purpose of burning the flesh, and perhaps with it all the flags and ornaments of the tomb.

[91] He was a great favourite with them.

[92] The medicinal property of this intestinal concretion is well known wherever the animal is found. Marcgrave, in his "Tractatus topographicus et meteorologicus Brasiliæ," folio, p. 36, says:--"Hæc animalia (guanacoes) generant lapides Bezoares in sinu quodam ventriculi, qui maximi æstimantur contra venena et febres malignos ad roborandum et refocillandum cor, aliosque affectus. Materia è qua generantur sunt herbæ insignis virtutis, quibus vescuntur naturæ instinctu ad sanitatem tuendum, aut morbos et venena superandum. Hi lapides inveniuntur in adultioribus hisce animalibus atque interdum tam grandes, ut unum in Italiam attulerim qui pendet uncias duas supra triginta."--Mr. Thompson, on Intestinal Concretions. See his Syn. of Chemistry, iv. 576.

[93] _Anser nigrocollis_. Encyc. Méthod., art. Ornithol. 108.

[94] Weddell's Voyage.

[95] I cannot avoid noticing here the considerate conduct of the Commander-in-chief (Sir George Eyre) with respect to this appointment. By the tenor of my instructions the Adventure and Beagle were placed under the Admiral's orders; and the vacancy, had he wished to exercise his prerogative, might have been filled by one of his own followers. It was, however, given, at my request, to Mr. Sholl, as being more conversant with the duties of this peculiar service than any of the midshipmen of the flag-ship. The Admiral's conduct, on this occasion, calls for my warmest thanks.

[96] Relacion del Viage, &c. que hicieron los Capitanes B. G. de Nodales y Gonzalo de Nodales, p. 59.

[97] Falkner describes the Indians who inhabit the eastern islands of Tierra del Fuego, to be 'Yacana-cunnees,' and as he designates those who inhabit the Patagonian shore of the Strait by the same name, it might be inferred that they are of the same race; but however closely connected they may have been formerly, they certainly are not so now, for Maria (the Patagonian) spoke very contemptuously of them, and disclaimed their alliance; calling them 'zapallios,' which means slaves.

[98] Berberis ilicifolia.--Banks and Solander MSS.

[99] The specimen that was found at Port Gallant was sent by me to Mr. Vigors, who considering it, although well known to ornithologists, as never having yet been named, describes it in the Zoological Journal (vol. iii. p. 432, Aug. 1827), as Mellisuga Kingii. Shortly afterwards M. Lesson published it in his Manuel d'Ornithologie (vol. ii. p. 80.), as _Ornismya sephaniodes_, as a discovery belonging to La Coquille's voyage, in the illustrations of which it is figured at plate 31. I rather think, however, that it is Molina's _Trochilus galeritus_.--(Molina, i. 275.).

[100] Sarmiento, p. 213.

[101] Este monte es el que llaman las Relaciones antiguas la Campana de Roldan.--Sarmiento.

[102] Here we obtained a second species of the Steamer-duck, which is described in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, as '_Micropterus Patachonicus_, Nob.' It differs from the _M. brachypterus_ not only in colour but in size, being a smaller bird, and having the power of raising its body, in flight, out of the water. We called it the 'Flying Steamer.'

[103] Afterwards examined by Capt. Fitz Roy. It was called Xaultegua by Sarmiento, who very correctly describes it.--(Sarmiento's Voyage, p. 208.)

[104] Because they formed a capital leading mark for the Strait of Magalhaens.

[105] Beagle Island N. 71°. E., Cape Isabel N. 32°. E., a remarkable mountain in the bight between Cape Santa Lucia and Cape Isabel N. 11°. W. Cape Santa Lucia N. 33°. W.; distance off shore three leagues; and soundings fifty fathoms, sandy bottom.

[106] (Sarmiento, p. 65.)

[107] The description of Port Henry is given in our Sailing Directions.

[108] The N.W. end of the Island de la Campana bearing N. 71°. 40'. E. Two distant hummocky islands (answering pretty well in position with the Guaianeco Islands of the Spanish charts) N. 53°. 30'. E., and N. 55°. 48'. E., and a remarkable rock, the 'Dundee' of Bulkeley and Cummings, about forty-five feet high, rising like a tower from the sea, distant offshore five miles, bearing east of us, distant one mile.

[109] Length twenty feet five inches and a half, sided twelve inches, and moulded eight inches and a half.

[110] Xavier's Island is certainly the Montrose Island of Byron's Narrative. The Wager was lost, as will be seen, more to the southward, on the Guaianeco Islands.

[111] This group was afterwards called Hazard Isles.

[112] D'Azara, in his Essai sur l'Histoire Naturelle des Quadrupèdes de Paraguay, gives the following account of this animal, which he calls Yagouaré. It burrows in the ground, eats insects, eggs, and birds, when it can surprise them, and moves about the plains and fields both by day and night in search of food; brushing the ground with its body, and carrying its tail horizontally. It regards not the presence of man or beast; unless an attempt be made to injure or take it, when it gathers up its body, bristles up the hairs of its tail, erecting it vertically; and in this position awaits the approach of its enemy, at whom it ejects its urine, which produces so unbearable a smell, that neither man, dog, nor tiger, will attempt to touch the animal.

The yagouaré moves very slowly, and cannot run. It produces two young ones, which are placed at the bottom of its burrow. The unconquered Indians of the Pampas make mantles with the furs of the fox, cavia, or other animals, and border them with the skins of the yagouaré, which are very soft and fine, and would be fit for being employed by the furrier were it not for the disagreeable odour which they impart to every thing they touch. The Indians eat the flesh of this animal, which they irritate until its only means of defence is unavailing, and it can be captured without offensive consequences.

[113] From which the Mount (at Monte Video) bore N. 11°. W., distant eight leagues.

[114] Specimens of this rock are deposited in the Geological Society's Museum, Nos. 3 and 3-1.

[115] See Zoological Journal, vol. iv. p. 92.

[116] Nos. 1 and 2 in the Geological Society's Museum. A new species of Solen (_Solen Scalprum_, nob., Zool. Journ. V. 335. No. 5.) was found on the beach; and the camerated nidus of _Buccinum muriciforme_, nob., Zool. Journal, l.c. No. 62.

[117] According to Capt. Fitz Roy the best berth is in sixteen fathoms. (Sail. Directions.)

[118] Nos. 268 to 271, Geo. Soc. Museum.

[119] A species of Gunnera (_Dysemore integrifolia_, Banks and Solander), and the green-stemmed Cineraria (_Cin. leucanthema_. Banks and Solander).

[120] Nos. 283 to 286, in Geol. Soc. Museum.

[121] The changes of pressure, during the intervals of ascent and descent, were obtained by registering the ship's barometer, which was done by signal from the stations on shore, when the readings were taken. During the ascent the column fell 0.039 inches, and during the descent rose 0.041 inches. Corrections were made for the dew point, as observed by Daniell's hygrometer at the base and summit, and the calculations were made according to the formula in Daniell's Meteorological Essay.

The following is the result:

By Bunten's Syphon. By Jones 509.

Ascent 1743.4 1749.3 Descent 1738. 1739.1 ------ ------ Mean 1741. 1744.2

Mean of the two instruments 1742.4 feet.

[122] This rock is very similar to the boulders and pebbles which we found on the beach at Point St. Mary (Freshwater Bay).

[123] The underwood is composed chiefly of _Arbutus rigida_--_Berberis parvifolia_ and _ilicifolia_--(_sempervirens_ of Banks and Solander). _Veronica_ (_decussata_?) and, in moist places, _Cineraria leucanthema_, and _Dysemore integrifolia_; both of which are found in all the sheltered corners of Tierra del Fuego. No _Fuchsia_ was seen, but Mr. Anderson gathered the sweet-scented _Callixene marginata_, and a species of _Escalonia_, on the hill sides.

[124] Ann. Meeting, 30th Nov. 1832.

[125] The Survey of this part now presents the navigator with the means of ascertaining his position, to a nicety, by angles taken with a sextant between Cape Horn summit and Jerdan's Peak, or Mount Hyde, and Kater's Peak; and if Jerdan's Peak and Mount Hyde be brought in a line, and an angle taken between them and Cape Horn summit, the operation will be still more simple.

[126] Miers, in his account of Chile, gives a table of barometrical measurements of the heights of the land between Valparaiso and Mendoza, from which it appears that he has deduced the height of Curacavi to be 1,560 feet. As my determinations are the results of observations made on my way to and from Santiago, I have no doubt of their correctness, and think that the registered height of Miers's table should be 29.355 instead of 28.355.

[127] The following are the results of the barometrical determination of the height of various points on the road between Valparaiso and Santiago:--

Feet above the sea.

Casa Blanca, ten leagues from Valparaiso 803 Highest point of the road over the Cuesta de Zapata 1,977 Inn at Curacavi 633 Plain near Bustamente 808 Summit of Cuesta de Prado (not certain to 200 feet) 2,949 Inn, or post-house, at the base of the east side of the Cuesta de Prado 1,804 Santiago, by mean of numerous observations 1,821

Miers makes the above places above the sea as follows:--

Feet above the sea.

Casa Blanca 745 Summit of Cuesta de Zapata 1,850 Curacavi 1,560 Summit of Cuesta de Prado 2,543 Post-house, Prado 1,773 Santiago, mean of two observations 1,691 Do. by Malespina 2,463 } {2,254} Do. Mercurio Chileno 1,693½ } Spanish {1,550} English

[128] Probably they are the same as we observed on the fish taken by us off Cape Fairweather, and which, I believe, to be nearly allied to the one that is figured in Cuvier's Règne animal, Plate XV. figure 5, a species of _Lernæa_, or _Entomoda_ of Lamarck, iii. 233. The species is new.

[129] Geol. Soc. Museum, Nos. 176 to 205, and Zool. Mus.

[130] By angular measurement it was found to be 2,270 feet.

[131] The wristbands of our shirts, and all our outer clothes, were coated with ice, while our inner clothing was wet through.

[132] On heaving up the best bower, we found it had lost one fluke.

[133] The Adventure arrived on the 21st.--P. P. K.

[134] In the old Dutch charts, a passage was laid down near the place, and nearly in the direction of the Cockburn Channel, and named 'Jelouzelt:' but until some written authority can be produced to prove that this passage was explored, or, at the least, discovered by the person who gave the name of 'Jelouzelt' to one of the almost innumerable openings in Tierra del Fuego, it does not appear that the inlet so called has any claim to our consideration, greater than that of the non-existing San Sebastian Channel,--or a number of other imaginary passages which must have been laid down, upon supposition only, in many old charts.

The first person known to have passed through the Cockburn Channel was the mate of the Prince of Saxe Cobourg, who went in a boat (see page 66). It was afterwards passed by Mr. William Low, master of the Mercury, and has since been used by several vessels.

[135] Since surveyed by Capt. Fitz Roy in the Beagle, 1829-30.

[136] San Carlos, in Chilóe.

[137] Mr. Kirke.

[138] A heap, or stack of corn.

[139] No doubt the Mount Oracion of Sarmiento, p. 144.--P. P. K.

[140] This place is described in Sarmiento's journal, p. 144.--P. P. K.

[141] Ensenada de la Oracion of Sarmiento.--P. P. K.

[142] This bay is also described by Sarmiento as an 'Ancon sin salida,' p. 143; but it is evidently not the one that bears that name on the chart.--P. P. K.

[143] Here is certainly the Ancon sin salida of Sarmiento, whose journal describes the inlet as terminating in a cove to the north, p. 142. The mountain of Año Nuevo cannot be mistaken; indeed the whole of the coast is so well described by the ancient mariner, that we have little difficulty in determining the greater number of places he visited. In all cases we have, of course, preserved his names. The chart compiled by Admiral Burney is a remarkable instance of the care which that author took in arranging it, and how ingeniously and correctly he has displayed his judgment; it is also a proof that our favourite old voyager, Sarmiento, was at least correct in his descriptions, although he appears to have been quite ignorant of the variation of the compass.--See Burney Coll. Voyages, p. 31; and Sarmiento, p. 162.

[144] 'Cordillera Nevada' of Sarmiento.

[145] A very full and detailed account of this journey is given by Agüeros, in his 'History of the Province of Chilóe,' pp. 50 to 56, as well as in the 'Chronicles of the Province of Lima, by Padre Fr. Diego de Cordova,' Salinas, chap. xvii. p. 485.

[146] Agüeros, l. c. p. 57.

[147] Agüeros describes its boundary thus:--It is situated between the latitudes 41° 30' and 44°; from Point Capitanes to Quilan. On the north it is bounded by the territories of the Indian tribes Juncos and Rancos, which extend to Valdivia; on the N.E. by those of the ancient but destroyed city Osorno; on the south by the archipelago of Guaitecas and Guaianeco, and others which extend to the Strait of Magalhaens; on the east by the Cordillera; and on the west by the sea. (Agüeros, p. 61.)

[148] When the Yntendente, or governor of the province, visited Castro for the purpose of taking a census of the population, a family of Indians waited upon him to render an account of their property; who, upon being asked whence they came, replied, "Del fin de la Cristiandad." The name being new to the Yntendente, it was explained to him that they belonged to Caylin, which was more generally known by the above name, because there existed no Christian population beyond, or to the southward of, that island.

[149] In the year 1783 there were 23,447 (Agüeros): and in 1832, 43,830.

[150] Agüeros says, "both men and women go generally with the foot and leg uncovered; with the exception of the principal families; but even those do not all wear shoes."--(Agüeros, p. 108.)

[151] Places where seal congregate--so called always by the sealers.

[152] Potatoes are not mentioned in the report, yet they must have been exported in considerable quantities.

[153] Molina, i. 167. A species of 'Dolichos.'

[154] The fanega weighs 175 lbs. and contains twelve almudes, which being cubic measures of eight inches and a half, contain each 614.125 cubic inches; therefore a fanega contains 7369.5 cubic inches, and as an English bushel contains 2150.4 cubic inches (2150.4 x 175)/7369.5 = 51-6/10 lbs. the weight of a bushel.

[155] Molina notices the 'Cagge,' or 'Chilóe duck,' (_Anas antarctica_) vol. i. p. 268, and calls it _Anas hybrida_. M. Lesson, in his 'Manuel d'Ornithologie,' ii. 409, has taken great pains to describe it, and remarks, with reason, that much obscurity exists in the specific descriptions of the goose kind in the Malouine (Falkland) Islands, and the extreme southern land of America. The male, Lesson says, is white, the feet and beak of a bright yellow colour. All the specimens that we saw, and numbers were killed by us, had a black beak with a red cere--otherwise M. Lesson's description is correct. In many specimens, however, we found the tip of the primary wing feathers black, which is not to be wondered at when the colour of the female is considered, but which it is not an easy task to describe. M. Lesson, I think, has done it justice in a note to his vol. ii. p. 409:--"Anas antarctica. A capite griseo, genis gulo colloque albo et nigro acuti-striatis; oculorum circuitu nudo: pectore abdomineque omninò atris, atque vittis niveis notatis: tectricibus alarum nigris; dorso uropygio caudâ et ano albis; alis niveis cum speculo lato virescente, brunneo marginato; pennis longis aterrimis; rostro et pedibus, aurantiacis."

These birds are very common in the Straits of Magalhaens, and every where on the west coast between the Strait and Chilóe; also at the Falkland Islands.

The _Cancania_ (or _Canqueña_) is the _Anas Magellanica_, _Anser Magellanicus_ (Ency. Méth. p. 117). From Buffon's description, and a well-drawn but badly-coloured figure, in the Planches Enluminées, No. 1006, I have no hesitation in assigning it to that kind. The colour of the head, however, instead of being 'reddish purple,' is cinereous with a reddish hue; the feathers of the sides and thigh covers are white, with five black bars, the extremity being white; the central portion of the abdomen is white; the speculum of a splendid shining green. This bird is common to the Strait as well as to Chilóe, and is probably Byron's 'Painted Duck,' and the _Anser pictus_ of the Ency. Méth., p. 117. M. Lesson considers _Anas leucoptera_, Gmel. as the male of _Anas Magellanica_, which may be doubted. The 'Barking Bird,' as our sailors called it, was first brought to me by Capt. Stokes, having been shot during the Beagle's visit to Port Otway, in the Gulf of Peñas. It was an imperfect specimen; but Mr. Tarn afterwards obtained for me several others. It seems to have a great affinity to the genus _Megapodius_; but no specimens of that genus being in England when I was last there, and the Barking Bird differing in essential points from M. Tenminck's description of the genus, and from the figured specimen of _Megapodius Freycinettii_;--particularly in the length and form of its wings, which are rounded, and so short as not to reach beyond the base of the tail;--also in the emargination of the upper mandible;--I have been induced, by Mr. Vigors' advice, to form it, provisionally, into a new genus, termed _Hylactes_. (See Proc. Zool. Soc., vol. i. p. 15.) There is another specimen in our collection (now in the Zoological Society's Museum), which will probably be placed in this genus, but there existed some uncertainty in essential points, which prevented my describing it before I left England.

[156] Among the numerous testaceous productions is a small shell, which constitutes a new genus. _Marinula_, nob. in Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 343. It was found on the wooden piles which support the mole in the bay of San Carlos, below the wash of the high water. The mole stands out into the sea, and there is no fresh water near it, save a very little rill, which discharges its tiny stream more than fifty yards off. This shell was named _Marinula Pepita_, Zool. Journal, l. c. No. 43. The following is its generic character:--'Testa ovato-producta, sub-solida; apertura ovata, integra; columella bidentata et basin versus uniplicata; dentibus magnis sub-remotis conniventibus, superiori maximo; operculum nullum.'

[157] Zool. Journal, vol. v. p. 333.

[158] Some have since been found on the north-east side of the Guaytecas Islands.

[159] Chaura. Una murta que no se come. Febres, Dict. of the Chileno language. It is, however, edible, and has rather a pleasant flavour.

[160] The small-pox was introduced into the island, in the year 1776 by a ship from Lima; but it was confined to San Carlos, and was soon eradicated. The measles also were introduced by similar means, in the year 1769; but did not re-appear after once ceasing.

[161] See orders to Captain Fitz Roy, in the Appendix.

[162] See orders to Lieut. Skyring, in the Appendix.

[163] Phil. Journal, and Annals of Philosophy, for March 1831 (new series x.), 220.

[164] Juan Fernandez is called 'de Tierra,' because it is nearer the mainland than another adjacent island, which is called 'Mas-a-fuéra' (farther off, or more in the distance).

[165] Anson's Voyage, p. 118.

[166] Arca angúlata. See Zool. Journal, vol. v. p, 336.

[167] Trochilus Fernandensis, nob. _Troch: ferugineo-rufus; capitis vertice splendento-coccineo; remigibus fuscis._ Long. 5 uncias.

Trochilus Stokesii, nob. _Troch: corpore supra viridi-splendente, subtus albo, viridi-guttato; capite supra, guttisque confertis gulæ lazulino-splendentibus: remigibus fusco-atris; remigum omnium, mediis exceptis, pogoniis internis albis._ Long. 4½ uncias. Proceed. Zool. Society, vol. i.; also Phil. Magazine, for March 1831, p. 227.

[168] Pinoleo (from 'Pino,' pisando; and 'leo,' rio; or, pisando sobre el rio, living close to the banks of a river), is the Chief of a small tribe, whose territory is near the River Imperial; but he generally lives in the confines of Concepcion. He has four wives in the interior (la tierra) and three in the town.

[169] Hall's Extracts from a Journal, vol. i. pp. 316. 322.

[170] In Febres 'Arte de la lengua de Chile' they are thus described "Ahujas grandes con una plancha redonda de plata como una hostia, ò mayor, con que prenden las mujeres sus mantas--Certain large bodkins, with a round silver plate, as large as, or larger than, an oyster, with which the women fasten their mantles."

[171] The ornament on the forehead, which is worn only by unmarried women, is called Trare-lonco, from the old Chilian words trarin, to fasten, and lonco, the head. The bracelet is called Anello curo; the anklets, Anelleo.

[172] From 'Mari,' diez, and 'loan,' huapo: whence Mariloan means 'huapo como diez,' or, 'equal to ten men.'

[173] The same comet was seen at the Mauritius; and its orbit calculated. See Ast. Soc. Proceedings, and Phil. Journal.

[174] They are deposited in the Museum of the Geological Society.

[175] The Marine Islands were so called, in remembrance of the four marines who were put on shore from the Wager's boats, and left behind. See Byron's Nar., p. 85.

[176] Mr. Kirke, who examined them, says, "There are two openings opposite Xavier Island, on the mainland: the northernmost runs through high land, and is terminated by a low sandy beach, with a river in the middle, running from a large glacier; the southern inlet is ended by high mountainous land."

[177] On the west shore Mr. Kirke noticed what appeared to be a channel, about twelve miles N.W. of Halt Bay, in the mouth of which was a considerable tide-ripple; an almost certain indication of such an opening. "I thought the inlet about twelve miles north-west of Halt Bay much like a channel. I also noticed a distinct tide ripple, which I did not remark near any other opening. To me this appeared the southernmost inlet, of any depth; or at all likely to be a channel."--Kirke MS.

[178] At the request of Lieutenant Mitchell, of the Adventure.

[179] Iron pyrites.

[180] _Phal: capite cristato, collo posteriori, corporeque supra intensè purpureis; alis scapularibusque viridi-atris; remigibus rectricibusque duodecim fusco-atris; corpore subtus, fasciá alarum maculâque dorsi medii sericeo-albis; rostro nigro; pedibus flavescentibus. Staluria Phal. Carbonis._ It was found in the Inner Sounds, within the 'Ancon sin Salida.'--Proceed. of the Zool. Society, vol. i.; also Phil. Magazine, for March 1831, p. 227.

[181] _C. albus remigibus primariis ad apicem nigris, rostro pedibusque rubris, illo lato subdepresso._ Molina describes a Chilian duck thus. Anas Coscoroba--_A. rostro extremo dilatato rotundato, corpore albo_, but I do not think it is the same as my specimen; certainly it is not _Anser Candidus_ of Veillos, the ganso blanco of D'Azara, which the author of the Dict. D'Hist. Nat. (xxiii. 331.) supposes to be the same as A. Coscoroba (id. p. 332). Molina's description is very short, and does not mention the tips of the primary wing-feathers being black.

[182] Mate, lent to the Beagle, from the Adventure.

[183] A small vessel may moor between the islands, instead of lying in the outer road.

[184] The three peaks, in-shore of Cape Kempe, are very remarkable.

[185] Specimens of the rock at the summit are in the collection at the Geological Society, numbered 184 and 188.

[186] Geological Society, Coll. No. 197.

[187] Geological Society, No. 238 to 240, (perhaps clay-slate. P. P. K.)

[188] Name given by sealers to a thick rushy kind of grass, which grows near the sea, in these latitudes.

[189] A high mountain at the N.W. end of London Island.

[190] I carried two tents from the Beagle, theirs having been cut up for the basket.

[191] It afterwards appeared that we had taken the families of the very men who stole the boat from Mr. Murray.

[192] Adventure Passage.

[193] Gilbert Islands.

[194] Doris Cove.

[195] So called in remembrance of the basket-like canoe by which we received intelligence of the loss of our boat.

[196] The man I took out of the canoe.

[197] It had formerly belonged to H.M.S. Doris, which was condemned at Valparaiso; being unserviceable.

[198] Mr. Murray had some bottles of beer in his boat--besides those in which the men's allowance of spirits was kept.

[199] In the lost boat were several pieces of spare line, 'King's white line,' quite new.

[200] False Cape Horn, or Cape False.

[201] A rushy kind of coarse grass.

[202] The mercury in the barometer fell to 28,94, and the oil in the sympiesometer to 28,52; the thermometer ranging from 40° to 48° (Faht.)

[203] In longitude 69.20. W.

[204] The stuffed skin is now in the British Museum.

[205] The powder and shot expended here procured four meals of fresh provisions for all hands.

[206] From the Adventure's deck, the eye being thirteen feet above the water, they were seen on the horizon at the distance of fourteen miles.

[207] If from the Second Narrow, N.E. ¼ E. will be the compass course; but I should recommend a ship to haul up to the northward until abreast of Cape Gregory, and then to steer as above.

[208] The Tide begins to set to the Southward at Noon, at Full and Change.

[209] In the Appendix to the second volume these alterations are discussed.--R. F.

[210] 2,600 Ang. R. F.

[211] This is derived from the observations of Captains Duperrey and Fitz-Roy at the Bay of Islands, in Lat. 35°. 16'. The interval is short; but the indication receives confirmation from the observations of Captains Cook and Vancouver at Dusky Bay, New Zealand, in Lat. 45°. 47'.

Cook 1773 70°. 06' } 1'.4 annual decrease. Vancouver 1791 69. 43 }

[212] Or _Mephitis Americana_?

[213] _Elminius Kingii_, Gray in Zool. Miscell. from a specimen collected during the voyage.--Ed.

[214] Whilst this sheet was printing, the September number of the Annales des Sciences made its appearance in England, containing a description of the above shell by M. Sander Rang, accompanied by an excellent figure (Annales des Sciences Naturelles, September 1831, p. 55, pl. 3, f. 1). It is there named _Helix multicolor_. In my description I have considered it to be a _Bulinus_, but its specific name has been altered to that given to it by M. Rang.

[215] There has existed much difference of opinion as to the correct mode of spelling the name of this celebrated navigator. The French and English usually write it Magellan, and the Spaniards Magallanes; but by the Portuguese, (and he was a native of Portugal,) it is universally written Magalhaens. Admiral Burney and Mr. Dalrymple spell it Magalhanes, which mode I have elsewhere adopted: but I have since convinced myself of the propriety of following the Portuguese orthography for a name, which to this day is very common both in Portugal and Brazil.

[216] During our examination of this part, our boats ascended the river San Tadeo, and endeavoured in vain to find any traces of the road; an almost impenetrable jungle of reeds and underwood lined the banks of the river, and time was too valuable to admit of further delay, in search of an object comparatively of minor importance.

[217] Agüeros, Descripcion Historial de la Provincia y Archipielago de Chilóe, 1791, p. 229.

[218] The precise situation of the wreck of this vessel had hitherto been very vaguely marked on our charts: a careful perusal, however, of Byron's narrative, and of Agüeros' account of the Missionary Voyages in 1779, sufficiently points out the place within a few miles. It is on the north side, near the west end of the easternmost of the Guaianeco islands, which we named, in consequence, Wager Island. At Port Santa Barbara, seventeen miles to the southward of this group, a very old worm-eaten beam of a vessel was found, which there is reason to think may be a relic of that unfortunate ship. It was of English oak, and was found thrown up above the high-water mark upon the rocks at the entrance of the port. No other vestige was detected by us;--the missionaries, however, found broken glass bottles, and other evident traces of the wreck. At Chilóe I saw a man who had formed one of this enterprising party, and obtained from him a curious and interesting account of those voyages.

[219] Agüeros, p. 205, et seq.

[220] Ibid. p. 181, et seq.

[221] Ibid. p. 237.

[222] Living plants of the above trees, and other vegetable productions from the Strait of Magalhaens, were introduced into England upon the return of the expedition, and have since thriven exceedingly well.

[223] Near Falcon Inlet, seven miles up the eastern side of Sir George Eyre Sound, are some large 'rookeries,' or breeding-haunts, of fur-seal. Many thousands of these animals were congregated together, which probably had been driven from the sea-coast by the activity of the seal-fishers; and perhaps, for many years, if not ages, have been breeding undisturbed in this hitherto unknown, and therefore safe and quiet recess. Two seals that were killed appeared to be of the same description as the species which frequents the sea-coasts.

[224] Hawkesworth, Voyages, i. 38.

[225] The stems of both from six to seven inches in diameter.

[226] This bird, although not rare in several English collections had never been noticed until I forwarded it to England in the early part of the year 1827, when my friend Mr. Vigors described it in the Zoological Journal for the month of November 1827 (vol. iii. p. 432), under the name of _Mellisuga Kingii_. Shortly afterwards, M. Lesson published it in his Manuel d'Ornithologie (vol. ii. p. 80), as _Ornismya sephaniodes_, as a discovery belonging to the Coquille's voyage, in the illustrations of which it is figured at plate 31.

[227] Sarmiento, p. 180.

[228] Narborough's Voyage, p. 78.

[229] Except gun-room, second and third messes.

[230] Except cabin, fourth and fifth messes.

[231] Except cabin, sixth and seventh messes.

ADDITIONAL NOTES BY ROBERT FITZ-ROY

(a) By Nassau Island is meant the land forming the south shore of the Second Narrow.--R. F.

(b) A kind of gun.--R. F.

(c) While the 'current' runs eastward for many days in mid-channel, or along one shore, it often happens that the 'stream of tide' either sets in a contrary direction, along each side of the Strait, or that it follows only the shore opposite to that washed by the 'current.'--R. F.

(e) Or the animal called by Molina 'Huemul.'--R. F.

(f) Thomas Sorrell, now boatswain of the Beagle (1837). He was boatswain of the Saxe Cobourg, when wrecked in Fury Harbour.--R. F.

(g) Campana, or Bell Mountain.--R. F.

(h) I do not think the bay adjacent to Cape Horn is that which was named by D'Arquistade 'St. Francis,' and, if my supposition is correct, Port Maxwell is not the place which was called 'St. Bernard's Cove.' See Second volume.--R. F.

(k) Sharp frosts sometimes occur.--R. F.

(l) This was a remarkable instance of what I often observed afterwards in those regions, a kind of 'ignis fatuus,' which sometimes was stationary, like the light of a lanthorn, and at others suddenly flitting, like the flashes of pistols, at a distance. It was only seen upon the lower hills.--R. F.

(m) Each officer and man, when detached from the Beagle during a night, carried a blanket, or large poncho (sewed up, and with a drawing-string, like a large bag), in which he slept, and found much comfort and warmth.--R. F.

(n) Like a roebuck; supposed to be the 'Huemul' mentioned by Molina.--R. F.

(o) Black-necked swan, noticed elsewhere by Captain King.--R. F.

(p) Noticed previously by Captain Stokes.--R. F.

(q) At the western entrance of the Strait the water is said to be generally a few degrees warmer than at the eastern.--R. F.

(r) Por milagro (miraculously); as the inhabitants told me.--R. F.

(s) I do not think that there is any opening at the bottom of Keats Sound; which lies at the base of a chain of snow-covered mountains, whose southern side I have closely traced.--R. F.

(t) A kind of beech, found every where on these shores. The literal meaning of Roble, is oak.--R. F.

(u) Native of Chilóe.--R. F.

(v) When moderately laden they are stiff under sail; and are not such very bad sea-boats, if properly managed.--R. F.

(w) Not since the first Spanish conquest, perhaps.--R. F.

(x) I believe that the natives who have canoes of the kind described above, do not go near the Hermite Islands, on which Cape Horn is situated.--R. F.

(y) For evidence that Indians have been thereabouts, see Byron's account of the cave entered by the surgeon of the Wager. I believe that curious place was either in, or close to, Port Otway.--R. F.

(z) Could 'Plasta' refer to Alexander Campbell?--R. F.

(a) Pedro Osorio died at San Carlos in 1832.--R. F.

(b) Or by an earthquake wave.--R. F.

(c) During much of this cruise, Lieutenant Skyring was so ill that he was unable to leave the Adelaide; and for a month he was confined to bed. His illness was caused by fatigue, and by sitting too long while constructing charts.--R. F.

(d) Mr. Kirke was rather short-sighted, and therefore unable to discern distant objects clearly. From the natives of Ponsonby land, between the Otway and Skyring Waters, I procured, and gave to Captain King, some short straight horns, and parts of the skins of animals, which were probably deer of the kind seen by Mr. Kirke, and, since that time, by Mr. Low, when he followed my track into the Skyring Water with his sealing vessel, the Unicorn schooner.--R. F.

(e) In Otway Bay, not far from Landfall Island, is a rock on which Mr. Low found Fuegians living among a number of (apparently) tame seals. See second volume.--R. F.

(f) And thence to the Strait of Le Maire.--R. F.

(g) See second volume for further remarks on this subject.--R. F.

(h) Mr. Sorrell, formerly with Mr. Weddell, and since that time with Mr. Brisbane.--R. F.

(k) Five fathoms only were found in one spot during the Beagle's last voyage.--R. F.

* * * * *

Corrections made to printed original:

Errata et Corrigenda:--"443", printed as "----" in original.

Page 23 (in "These wigwams are thus constructed:"):--"constructed", printed as "constucted" in original.

Page 240 (in "to the best account"):--"account", printed as "acccount" in original.

Page 512 (top of column 2):--"1834", printed as "1831" in original.

Page 538 (Chionis alba):--"46.", printed as "44." in original.

Page 554 (Achatina Donellii, in "Mus. nost."):--"Mus.", printed as "Must." in original.

Appendix header page (in "Royal Geographical Society"):--"Society", printed as "Sociely" in original.