Part 7

On the 20th we passed Elethias with a strong wind, and therefore did not stop till we arrived at Edfu. This temple may be compared with that of Tentyra in point of preservation, and is superior in magnitude. The propylæon is the largest and most perfect of any in Egypt: it is covered on all sides with colossal figures of intaglio relevato, and contains several apartments in the interior, which receive light by square apertures in the side. We have here one of those curious subjects of inquiry, which, in my opinion, have never yet been explained. These square holes, or windows, viewed from the inside of the chambers, appear to have been made for the purpose of giving light to these apartments, or to hold some particular ornaments or emblems, placed in them occasionally on festival days; consequently, it might be concluded that they were made at the same time with the building. Yet, on the outside, these very windows come in contact with the colossal figures which are sculptured on the walls; and part of these appear as if cut off where the windows have been made: so that, from the appearance on the outside, it is to be inferred, that these apertures were formed after the building was finished. For my own part, I think they were cut long after that period, and made to give light to the apartments, which were inhabited by people of a different religion from those who built the temple. The pronaos is very wide, and is the only one to be seen in Egypt in such perfection, though completely encumbered with Arab huts. The portico is also magnificent; but, unfortunately, above three-fourths of it covered with rubbish. Through some holes in the upper part of the sekos I entered the inner apartments; but they were so obstructed, that I could not proceed far. The Fellahs have built part of their village on the top of it, as well as stables for cattle, &c. The temple is surrounded by a high thick wall, which extends from each side of the propylæon, so as to inclose the whole building. Not only the temple, but every part of the wall, is covered with hieroglyphics and figures. On the side wall of the pronaos I observed the figure of Harpocrates which is described by Mr. Hamilton, seated on a full-blown lotus, with his finger on his lips, as in the minor temple at Tentyra; and on the west side of the wall is the figure of an unicorn. This is one of the few figures of beasts I observed in Egypt. The elephant is to be seen only in the entrance to the temple of Isis, in the island of Philoe: the horse, as a hieroglyphic, is on the northern exterior wall at Medinet Aboo; and the camelopard is on the wall of the sekos of the Memnonium, and on the back of the temple at Erments. On looking at an edifice of such magnitude, workmanship, and antiquity, inhabited by a half savage people, whose huts are stuck against it, not unlike wasps’ nests, and to contrast their filthy clothes with these sacred images, that once were so highly venerated, makes one strongly feel the difference between the ancient and modern state of Egypt. The minor temple is but of small dimensions. It had a portico in the front; nothing of which is to be seen but fragments of columns buried in the rubbish. Some say this temple was dedicated to Apollo: but I do not know why there is not as much reason to suppose that it was dedicated to Typhon, as that the temple at Tentyra was dedicated to Isis. The square capitals on the columns at Tentyra are adorned with heads of Isis; and this is one of the principal circumstances, that indicate the deity to whom the temple was dedicated. In the temple at Edfu the figure of Typhon is placed on the capitals in a similar manner; and though there are representations of the beneficent deeds of nature on the walls, these may have been placed there by way of contrast, to elucidate the destroying power of the cruel god. Farther on to the south is part of a building, which no doubt was a second propylæon, as it faces the one now standing. Farther still is a small temple, almost unnoticed by travellers, which has an avenue of sphinxes leading in a right line towards the great temple. The sphinxes, several of which I cleared from the surrounding sand, have a lion’s body and female head as large as life. There are vast heaps of ruins all round these temples, and many relics of antiquity may be buried there.

On our passing by Djebel Cilcilly we did not stop, as we had a fair wind; and I deferred visiting that place till our return. On the 22d we arrived at Ombos. The ruins that are now left give a clear idea of what it has been. The columns of the portico form one of the richest groups of architecture I have seen: the hieroglyphics are well executed, and some still retain their colours. On the water-side are the remains of a smaller temple, part of which is fallen into the Nile. The stones of this little temple are not so large as most of the rest; which proves, that the Egyptians paid great attention to the proportion of masses, as one of the principal points in the effect they were intended for. The aspect of this little temple is somewhat graceful; and some of the figures retain part of their colours, though exposed to the open air. In this temple the same state of decay was apparent as in various others. The altar is fallen down, and may be seen when the water is low. It is a piece of gray marble, without hieroglyphics. Close to the water-side are some landing places, with covered staircases, leading up to the temple; but these are quite filled up with sand. We have reason to suppose this little temple to have been dedicated to Isis, as there are the heads of that goddess on the capitals of the two pillars, like those on the columns at Tentyra.

Before our arrival at Assouan, we landed on the western bank of the Nile. Here the country has a more pleasing aspect than any we had passed since the Chained Mountains. There are palm-trees in great abundance, on each side of the river, and some cultivated spots of ground, which extend from the Nile to the mountains. The distant view of Assouan presents a very gratifying aspect, perhaps increased by the barrenness of the preceding lands. The old town of Assouan stands on a hill, which overhangs the Nile. On its left is a forest of palm-trees, which hides the modern town; and on its right a distant view of the granite mountain that forms the cataract. The island of Elephantine seems to interfere with the barrenness of the western bank, and fills the ground with picturesque groups of various trees; and the high rock on the left, with the remains of a Coptic convent nearly on the summit of it, forms a view, to which travellers in Egypt are not accustomed; and this may be the cause of their describing it with so much partiality. We landed at the foot of the hill on the left of the Nile, and went to see the ruins of the convent, where I observed many grottoes, which had served as chapels for the Christian worship. The convent is formed of several small arched cells, separate from each other; and commands a very pleasing view of the cataract, Assouan, and the lower part of the Nile. One of the Arabian traditions relating to this place, I think worth notice.

There is in this spot, say the Arabs, great treasure, left by an ancient king of the country, previous to his departure for the upper part of the Nile, on a war against the Ethiopians. He was so avaricious, that he did not leave his family any thing to live on; and he was in close friendship with a magician, whom he appointed to guard his treasure till his return. But no sooner was he gone, than his relations attempted to take possession of the treasure: the magician resisted, was killed in the defence of his charge, and changed to an enormous serpent, which devoured all his assailants. The king is not yet returned, but the serpent still keeps watch over the treasure; and once every night, at a particular position of the stars, he comes out of the caves, with a powerful light on his head, which blinds all that attempt to look at it. He is of an enormous size; descends to the Nile, where he drinks; and then returns to his cave, to watch the treasure till the king returns.

The 24th, on our arrival at Assouan, I made application to the Aga for a boat to proceed to Nubia; but, it being the last two days of Ramadan, none could be had, for every body was feasting. I went the same evening to the old town of Assouan, and found it more extensive than it appeared from an external view. It stands on a granite rock, and its situation is extremely pleasant. The higher part commands a view over the cataract, the Elephantine, and the New Town. The granite quarries of the ancient Egyptians are to be seen every where. From this spot we have a full view of the cataract, which, when the water is high, scarcely deserves the name; for it consists merely of several rapids, where the river is divided in its course by various granite islands scattered about, and ascending gradually to the island of Philoe, distant from Assouan about three hours’ journey by water, but two only by land. When the Nile is low, the cataract has a different appearance, as I shall have to describe in my subsequent excursions. Above the New Town are the remains of a small Egyptian temple, so buried in the rubbish and stones, that it has escaped the notice of many travellers.

On my return to the boat, I found the Aga and all his retinue seated on a mat under a cluster of palm-trees close to the water. The sun was then setting, and the shades of the western mountains had reached across the Nile, and covered the town. It is at this time the people recreate themselves in various scattered groups, drinking coffee, smoking their pipes, and talking of camels, horses, asses, dhourra, caravans, or boats. The Aga came on board, with as many of his followers as the boat could hold. We treated them indiscriminately with coffee, and a small portion of tobacco each. As a present to the Aga, I sent to his house about a pound of tobacco, some soap and raw coffee, which he gladly accepted. His manners were pretty free; and, from motives of self-interest, he proposed to furnish us with a boat of his own. This I preferred, because I supposed we should be the more respected by the people of Nubia, whither we were going. He promised, that I should see the Reis of the Nubian boat the same evening, but he did not appear. Showy as the appearance of the Aga was, the inside of his house was not in conformity with his dress, which by no means corresponded with that of many persons in Cairo employed by the Turkish government; who dare not make the least show of riches, lest they should incur the suspicion of having defrauded their master. This proves, that the fear of the Turks has in a great measure lost its influence here. While remaining with our boat, Mrs. Belzoni took an opportunity to visit his harem, or seraglio, which consisted of two houses; for the old Aga had separated the old wives from the young, though he still visited them.

Next morning early I went to see the island of Elephantine, named by the Arabs El-Shag. As I could get no boat from the shore where we were, we went to the old town, and crossed in the ferry-boat, which is made of branches of palm-trees, fastened together with small cords, and covered on the outside with a mat pitched all over. There were nine of us in this boat. Its length was ten feet, its breadth five, and it might weigh about fifty pounds. It cost, when new, twelve piastres, or six shillings.

On my arrival at the island, I went to see the temple, supposed to be dedicated to the serpent Knuphis; and, I may truly say, the only antiquity in it worthy of mention. It consisted of one chamber, with two doors facing each other, and a gallery of square pillars all round. The walls are adorned with hieroglyphics, and it has a staircase in the front. I could not see the pedestal with Greek inscriptions, mentioned by Mr. Norden. There was a subterraneous staircase leading from the temple to the river; and, a little above it, two lateral parts of a gateway, made of square blocks of granite, sculptured with hieroglyphics. Several large pieces of granite are lying about, apparently as if there had been a building of some magnitude. Towards the centre of the island is a kind of gallery, built of several square pillars of sandstone, full of hieroglyphics. The rocks of blue granite, that project out of the earth, serve as foundations. Not far from this temple, I saw a statue of granite, I believe of Osiris, about double the size of life. It is sitting on a chair, with some hieroglyphics on it, and its arms crossing the breast: but it was so mutilated, that it did not appear worth taking away.

I crossed the island, and on the west bank found it to contain many trees of cassia and sycamore. The ground is well cultivated, and altogether it is pleasant enough; but it has not those beauties, which have been ascribed to it by some travellers. In crossing the river, I saw the rocks of granite, with the hieroglyphics and the Nilometer cut on them. I returned to our bark, and prepared for our departure.

August 25, in the morning, I waited to see the Reis, whom the Aga had promised to send to me the night before; but no one came. In the afternoon I went to the Aga, who repeated, that I should see the Reis in a few minutes. I waited patiently some time; at length the Aga himself came on board. After the usual ceremonies and protestations, he gave me to understand, that we must make an arrangement about the money to be paid for the boat. I told him, that I should be very glad to see the Reis himself on the business. He answered, that if I agreed with him, it was the same thing. He added, that the bark was ready: but he demanded so exorbitant a sum, that I told him I never would pay it, and that I would contrive to provide myself with a Reis, who knew the cataract, and would draw up our own bark. He seemed very much dissatisfied with my answer, and said, that the Reis of the Shellal could agree with no sailors but their own.

I went with my Janizary and the interpreter to the upper part of the cataract at Morada, which is two hours distant. Two soldiers of the Aga offered to accompany us, but I told them we were not afraid, as we were well armed. They almost insisted on coming, but I would not permit them; for I was aware, that they wanted only to see what we were doing, and to interrupt my plans if possible. When we arrived, we found the boat not ready, without a mast, and the Reis not there. On inquiry we met with a man, who undertook to pilot our bark up the first cataract, and as far as the second, and back again, for twenty pataks, which are equal to forty-five piastres, or four dollars and a half. As we were returning, the Reis of the first boat came, and protested, that his boat would be ready early next morning. I asked him about the price, but he said, that this was left entirely to the Aga. I was now certain of the Aga’s tricks, and felt pleased that I had a Reis to pilot our own bark; but I found myself much mistaken. While I was absent on this expedition, the Aga had threatened our Arab Reis, if he proceeded any farther with his bark; and he was glad to obey, for he thought I should leave him and his bark to wait at Assouan till my return, and pay him his monthly money during the whole time. I had scarcely arrived on board, when the Aga came with great speed, attended by his whole train of courtiers, in their rags and finery. They were all clad in their gala attire, as this was their grand feast of the Ramadan.

I cannot describe the motley confused manner in which this great divan was decorated: one had a new tunic of their brown cloth, and a ragged turban: another had a fine turban, and a ragged tunic: a third, without turban or tunic, had a fine red woollen shawl round his body: the Aga himself was uncommonly dirty and showy, being dressed in green and red, and without a shirt on his back. He came on board with all his suite. I observed the Reis, whom I had brought from Morada, advance to kiss the hand of the Aga; but he refused with an angry look, saying to him, “Do you dare to hinder me from letting a boat?”—I then told the Aga that, if my taking a boat from any one but himself would cause a disturbance, I would rather return back, as I was not anxious to see a country, where there was nothing to interest me, and which would occasion me such enormous expense. At this he became all at once very mild; and still more so when I told him, that I was determined to return, and not go any farther, as my patience was worn out with the number of obstacles thrown in my way. The result was, that he offered me his boat at the price a Nubian would have paid; and with the positive condition, that it should be entirely at my disposal, to stop where I pleased, go where I pleased, and take us to the second cataract and back again; that it mattered not how long I should stay in a place, even a fortnight if I liked it; that the Reis should be obliged to bring on board four other sailors besides himself, supply them with provision, and give us all the assistance and information in his power; and for all this accommodation I was to pay the sum of two hundred piastres, or twenty dollars, which was less than I should have had to pay, if I had kept the former boat from Cairo, as I incurred no extra expenses. The first demand of the Aga was fifty thousand paras, equal to about a hundred and twenty dollars. Our luggage was to be sent on board the next morning on camels, and we ourselves set off in the evening.

Early in the morning the Aga came again to our boat, begging for a bottle of vinegar, which I gave him, accompanied with a trifling sum of money for his trouble, to induce him to take care of the baggage we left behind till our return. He was well satisfied, and promised to do all in his power to expedite our departure. The boat I had from Cairo was to go back; and I embraced the opportunity to write to the consul, informing him of my scheme of ascending the Nile to the second cataract, during the interval required for the arrival of the boat from Cairo, which was to convey the colossal bust.

We arrived at Morada in the evening, and accommodated ourselves in the boat as well as we could for the night.

In the morning of the 27th, long before the rising of the sun, I stood at the stern, waiting the light to unveil that goodly sight, the beautiful island of Philoe. My anxiety to see the ruins was as great as my expectations; but, when I beheld them, they surpassed every thing that imagination could anticipate. We crossed the water, and three hours elapsed, which appeared to us as so many minutes; but, as I intended to inspect these ruins minutely on our return, I only took a hasty view of the island. I observed several blocks of stones, with hieroglyphics on them in great perfection, that might be taken away, and an obelisk of granite about twenty-two feet in length, and two in breadth. I thought this also might easily be removed, as it lies in a good situation, and not far from the water-side. On our return to the boat we set sail, and in about three hours arrived at Debod: but I would not go to see the temple there, as the wind was so favourable I did not like to lose the advantage of it. This, therefore, I also deferred to my coming back. We stopped near the shore above Sardeeb el farras.

28th.—We passed several ruins this day on the western bank of the Nile, which I shall mention hereafter, and about noon we stopped at a village on the eastern bank, I believe to take in provision for the crew. The Reis, the Janizary, and the sailors went on shore; Mrs. Belzoni, the interpreter, and myself, remained on board. Some time after, a few natives came to our boat, and seemed anxious to see what we had in it; but as it was covered with mats, they could not look into it so well as they wished. After one of them had approached, and examined every thing with attention, they all retired; but a few minutes had scarcely elapsed, when we saw several of them returning armed with spears and shields of crocodile skins. As they came straight towards us, and were joined by some others, their appearance was rather alarming, and I thought it was time to be on our guard. Though we were well armed, we were only three in the boat: accordingly I took a pistol in each hand; Mrs. Belzoni also seized one, and the interpreter another. They approached us in their boats, as if with intention to come on board. We asked them what they wanted; but, as they had no knowledge of the Arabic language, they did not understand us. I made signs to them to keep off; but they appeared indifferent to all we said or did. I then stepped forward, and with my right hand prevented the first of them from entering the boat, while I held the pistols in my left. He began to be rather rough in his manner, but kept his eyes on the pistols, while the others behind were urging him on. At last I pointed a pistol at him, making signs, that, if he did not retire, I would shoot at him. On this he drew back, and remained with the rest for some time, apparently in consultation. The Reis, the crew, and the Janizary, now came on board. I told the Reis what had happened to us, and he talked to the men in their own language; but, at the same time, untied the boat, and we went from the shore into the middle of the Nile. On my expostulating with him upon the impropriety of leaving the boat without any one who could speak the language of the country, he said, that these people had a dispute with their neighbours, which was the reason of their being armed; and that they only wanted our boat to go to another island, to fight with the inhabitants, their adversaries. Whatever might have been their intention, whether to attack us, or to fight others, neither would have been a pleasant adventure to us.

Proceeding on our voyage, we passed Taffa, and entered the rocks of granite above that place. Here the Nile seems as if a passage had been cut for it through a chain of high mountains, which rise nearly perpendicular on each side of the river, and open gradually to the south, into another country. According to late observation, this place is calculated to be under the tropic of Cancer. As we advanced forward, the view extended more and more. On the right of the Nile there are several groups of palm-trees, and a distant view of the ruins of Kalabshe; and in the centre, the island of the same name, which has a formidable appearance at a distance, owing to the ruins of some Saracenic houses, which give it the resemblance of a castle. We arrived at this island the same evening.