Part 21

It will be recollected, that, when we left Thebes for the island of Philoe, we could not obtain any labourers, in consequence of the orders of the Bey. Supposing the same would be the case at this time, I sought the Cacheff of Erments, to obtain an order to allow the men to work. I found that the old Cacheff had fallen into disgrace with the Defterdar Bey, and was displaced and gone; consequently I applied to the Cacheff of Ghous, who had become ruler over the great city of a hundred gates. He was well aware, that to allow us to engage men to work would not please the Defterdar Bey; but reflecting on the firman we had from the Bashaw himself, and the barefaced distinction made in favour of the opposite party, who had many men at work, he could not well refuse me a small number of Arabs. I accordingly obtained from him a firman to the Sheiks of Gournou, to furnish me with twenty men, with whom I began my operations in the valley above mentioned. Here I entered upon an undertaking, that appeared rather presumptuous, when I recollected, that many travellers had been there, and many had inquired as to the possibility of discovering more tombs, than were already known, even from the time of Herodotus and Strabo. The former speaks of the tombs as being above forty in number. In the time of Strabo not half so many were known to exist. Having found by experience, that the reports of ancient authors are not always to be depended upon, particularly when they speak from hearsay, I put them out of the account, and proceeded entirely on my own judgment to search for the tombs of the monarchs of Thebes.

I began in the valley to the westward of Beban el Malook, near the same place where I discovered the tomb the year before. Here I must acquaint my reader, that the only guide I had in these discoveries was the knowledge I had acquired in the continued researches for tombs I made in Gournou. In these I found that the Egyptians had a particular manner of forming the entrance into their tombs, which gave me many leading ideas to the discovery of them. Besides, the supposition that many of these tombs must have been buried under the stones and rubbish, which continually fall from the upper parts of the mountains, the great quantity of materials cut out of the tomb accumulated in considerable heaps in different parts of the valley, might give various suggestions of the spots where the entrance to the tombs was to be found, as is justly observed by Mr. Hamilton. But all these striking reasons it appears were insufficient to lead any traveller to persevere in the attempt, or to make the attempt at all; and indeed it would have been the same with me, had I not been acquainted with a more secure mode of proceeding.

After a long survey of the western valley, I could observe only one spot, that presented the appearance of a tomb. Accordingly, I set the men to work near a hundred yards from the tomb which I discovered the year before; and when they had got a little below the surface, they came to some large stones, which had evidently been put there by those who closed the tomb. Having removed these stones, I perceived the rock had been cut on both sides, and found a passage leading downwards. I could proceed no farther that day, as the men were much fatigued, and we had more than four miles to return to Thebes. The next day we resumed our labour, and in a few hours came to a well-built wall of stones of various sizes. The following day I caused a large pole to be brought, and by means of another small piece of palm-tree laid across the entrance, I made a machine not unlike a battering-ram. The walls resisted the blows of the Arabs for some time, as they were not Romans, nor had the pole the ram’s head of bronze at its end; but they contrived to make a breach at last, and in the same way the opening was enlarged. We immediately entered, and found ourselves on a staircase, eight feet wide and ten feet high, at the bottom of which were four mummies, in their cases, lying flat on the ground, with their heads toward the outside. Farther on were four more, lying in the same direction. The cases were all painted, and one had a large covering thrown over it, exactly like the pall upon the coffins of the present day.

I went through the operation of examining all these mummies one by one. They were much alike in their foldings, except that which had the painted linen over it. Among the others I found one, that had new linen apparently, put over the old rags; which proves, that the Egyptians took great care of their dead, even for many years after their decease. That which was distinguished from all the rest, I observed was dressed in finer linen, and more neatly wrapped up. It had garlands of flowers and leaves, and on the side over the heart I found a plate of the metal which I have already described, soft like lead, covered with another metal, not unlike silver leaf. It had the eyes of a cow, which so often represents Isis, engraved on it; and in the centre of the breast was another plate, with the winged globe. Both plates were nearly six inches long. On unfolding the linen, we still found it very fine, which was not the case with the other mummies; for, after three or four foldings, it was generally of a coarser kind. At last we came to the body, of which nothing was to be seen but the bones, which had assumed a yellow tint. The case was in part painted; but the linen cloth covering it fell to pieces as soon as it was touched, I believe owing to the paint that was on it, which consisted of various devices and flowers. The cases were sunk four inches into the cement I have already mentioned. Some of the painting on the inside of the cases appeared quite fresh, as if recently done; and there was generally a coat of varnish, whether laid on over the colours, or incorporated with them, I do not know. For what purpose this tomb might have been intended, I cannot pretend to say: perhaps it was originally designed for one of the royal blood. It appeared by the entrance to have been commenced on a scale similar to those of the kings; though it seems to have been finished for a more humble family.

The result of my researches gave me all the satisfaction I could desire, of finding mummies in cases, in their original position: but this was not the principal object I had in view; for, as I was near the place where the kings of Egypt were buried, I thought I might have a chance of discovering some of their relics.

The sacred valley, named Beban el Malook, begins at Gournou, runs toward the south-west, and gradually turns due south. It contains the celebrated tombs of the kings of Egypt, and divides itself into two principal branches, one of which runs two miles farther to the westward, making five miles from the Nile to the extremity. The other, which contains most of the tombs, is separated from Gournou only by a high chain of rocks, which can be crossed from Thebes in less than an hour. The same rocks surround the sacred ground, which can be visited only by a single natural entrance, that is formed like a gateway, or by the craggy paths, across the mountains. The tombs are all cut out of the solid rock, which is of hard calcareous stone, as white as it is possible for a stone to be. They consist in general of a long square passage, which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery at each side of it, and other chambers. Advancing farther we come to wider apartments, and other passages and stairs, and at last into a large hall, where the great sarcophagus lay, which contained the remains of the kings. Some of these tombs are quite open, and others encumbered with rubbish at the entrance. Nine or ten may be reckoned of a superior class, and five or six of a lower order. Strabo may have counted eighteen, as may be done to this day, including some of an inferior class, which cannot be esteemed as tombs of the kings of Egypt from any other circumstance, than that of having been placed in this valley. For my part, I could distinguish only ten or eleven that could be honoured with the name of the tombs of kings, nor do I suppose when Strabo was told by the Egyptian priests, that there were forty-seven tombs of the kings of Egypt, they meant to say, these tombs were all in the place, now named Beban el Malook. In confirmation of this I would observe, that similar tombs, and perhaps even more magnificent ones, are to be found out of this valley, which are open to this very day. I do not mean the tombs in the western valley, that forms the other branch of Beban el Malook; but those in Gournou, which the traveller seldom fails to see. There are various tombs at that place, which are worthy to be compared with those in Beban el Malook; and I will venture to say, that there is one in Gournou far superior to any in that valley, being more extensive, and, from the fragments that remain, apparently of greater magnificence. But the frequent exposure to all sorts of injury from the various visitors, owing to their being nearer to the Nile, has reduced the tombs at Gournou to a state of the greatest dilapidation. From the besmoked and defaced walls it is easy to see, that they have been frequently visited and perhaps inhabited by herds of Arabs at a time, who retired to these recesses to escape the violent hands of their pursuers. If we add the tombs in the valley above mentioned to those of the superior class at Gournou, I will allow, that the Egyptian priests were right in their reports; otherwise I must say, it is my firm opinion, that in the valley of Beban el Malook, there are no more than are now known, in consequence of my late discoveries; for, previously to my quitting that place, I exerted all my humble abilities in endeavouring to find another tomb, but could not succeed; and what is a still greater proof, independent of my own researches, after I quitted the place, Mr. Salt, the British consul, resided there four months, and laboured in like manner in vain to find another. I think therefore I may venture to assert, that the whole forty or forty-seven tombs of the kings of Egypt could not be in this valley, but some of them were in various other places.

One argument more I shall offer on this subject. If the tombs of Gournou above mentioned, which are superior to those in the valley of Beban el Malook in size, in variety of apartments, consequently in number, and I will add, from what now remains to be seen, in the excellence of the sculpture, were not for the kings of Egypt, what other person in that country could aspire to such high honours, and presume to have tombs superior to those of the kings? If I maybe permitted to give my humble opinion on the subject, I should conclude, that the tombs in the valley of Beban el Malook were erected subsequently to those in Gournou; for I could scarcely find a spot in the latter place adapted to the excavation of another of the great tombs, and it may be supposed, that when all the best spots for large tombs in Gournou had been occupied, the Egyptians went over the rocks to seek another situation in which to deposit their kings. Certain it is, that the tombs in the valley of Beban el Malook are in far better condition than those in Gournou.

Under these circumstances, reflecting on the possibility of discovering some of the tombs of the kings, I set the few men I had to work.

On the 6th of October I began my excavation, and on the 9th discovered the first tomb: the apparent arrangement of the entrance indicated it to be a very large one; but it proved to be only the passage of one that was never finished. The Egyptians, however, would not lose their labour, for they used it as a tomb notwithstanding. Though it is not extensive, they plastered it very finely with white, and painted some very fine figures on it in the most finished style. This passage is ten feet five inches wide, and seventy-five feet from the entrance to the part where we come to evidently the unfinished work. From the appearance, as it stands, it is plain, that they intended to proceed, and that some particular event caused the work to be stopped. The painted figures on the wall are so perfect, that they are the best adapted of any I ever saw to give a correct and clear idea of the Egyptian taste. This tomb lies south-east from the centre of the valley, and quite at the foot of the large rocks, that overlook Gournou. As I had several parties of Fellahs at work in different directions, I hoped to make farther discoveries; and indeed this first success gave me much encouragement, as it assured me, that I was correct in my idea of discovering the tombs. On the same day we perceived some marks of another tomb in an excavation, that had been begun three days before, precisely in the same direction as the first tomb, and not a hundred yards from it. In fact, I had the pleasure to see this second tomb on the same day, the 9th. This is more extensive, but entirely new, and without a single painting in it: it had been searched by the ancients, as we perceived at the end of the first passage a brick wall, which stopped the entrance, and had been forced through. After passing this brick wall you descend a staircase, and proceed through another corridor, at the end of which is the entrance to a pretty large chamber, with a single pillar in the centre, and not plastered in any part. At one corner of this chamber we found two mummies on the ground quite naked, without cloth or case. They were females, and their hair pretty long, and well preserved, though it was easily separated from the head by pulling it a little. At one side of this room is a small door, leading into a small chamber, in which we found the fragments of several earthen vessels, and also pieces of vases of alabaster, but so decayed that we could not join one to another. On the top of the staircase we found an earthen jar quite perfect, with a few hieroglyphics on it, and large enough to contain two buckets of water. This tomb is a hundred feet from the entrance to the end of the chamber, twenty feet deep, and twenty-three wide. The smaller chamber is ten feet square: it faces the east by south, and runs straight towards west by north.

Several days before we received news, that there were some English people coming up from Cairo, and we were anxiously expecting them, as we knew by letter from that place, that they were three English gentlemen. Early on the morning of the 10th they reached Beban el Malook, accompanied by Mr. Beechey, who was at Luxor, where they arrived the evening before.

Early on the next morning, the 11th, we began the tour of Thebes. We went to see the tombs in Gournou, and the little temple in the valley behind the Memnonium. About twelve o’clock word was brought me, that a tomb discovered the day before was opened, so that we might enter it. On this we took the road over the rocks immediately, and arrived in less than three quarters of an hour. I found the tomb just opened, and entered to see how far it was practicable to examine it. Having proceeded through a passage thirty-two feet long, and eight feet wide, I descended a staircase of twenty-eight feet, and reached a tolerably large and well-painted room. I then made a signal from below to the travellers, that they might descend, and they entered into the tomb, which is seventeen feet long, and twenty-one wide. The ceiling was in good preservation, but not in the best style. We found a sarcophagus of granite, with two mummies in it, and in a corner a statue standing erect, six feet six inches high, and beautifully cut out of sycamore-wood: it is nearly perfect except the nose. We found also a number of little images of wood, well carved, representing symbolical figures. Some had a lion’s head, others a fox’s, others a monkey’s. One had a land-tortoise instead of a head. We found a calf with the head of a hippopotamus. At each side of this chamber is a smaller one, eight feet wide, and seven feet long; and at the end of it is another chamber, ten feet long by seven wide. In the chamber on our right hand we found another statue like the first, but not perfect. No doubt they had been placed one on each side of the sarcophagus, holding a lamp or some offering in their hands, one hand being stretched out in the proper posture to hold something, and the other hanging down. The sarcophagus was covered with hieroglyphics merely painted, or outlined: it faces south-east by east.

Next day, the 12th, the party could not proceed on their voyage, the wind being foul. On the 13th I caused some spots of ground to be dug at Gournou, and we succeeded in opening a mummy pit on that day, so that the travellers had the satisfaction of seeing a pit just opened, and receiving clear ideas of the manner in which the mummies are found, though all tombs are not alike. This was a small one, and consisted of two rooms painted all over, but not in the best style. It appeared to me that the tomb belonged to some warrior, as there were a great number of men enrolling themselves for soldiers, and another writing their names in a book. There are also several other figures, &c. In the lower apartment we saw the mummies lying here and there, without any regularity. To all appearance therefore this pit had been opened by the Greeks, or some other people, to plunder it.

The same day we visited another mummy pit, which I had opened six months before. The construction is somewhat similar to what I have just described, a portico and a subterraneous cavity where the mummies are. Here the paintings are beautiful, not only for their preservation, but for the novelty of their figures. There are two harps, one with nine strings, and the other with fourteen, and several other strange representations: in particular, six dancing girls, with fifes, tambourines, pipes of reeds, guitars, &c.

On the 16th I recommenced my excavations in the valley of Beban el Malook, and pointed out the fortunate spot, which has paid me for all the trouble I took in my researches. I may call this a fortunate day, one of the best perhaps of my life; I do not mean to say, that fortune has made me rich, for I do not consider all rich men fortunate; but she has given me that satisfaction, that extreme pleasure, which wealth cannot purchase; the pleasure of discovering what has been long sought in vain, and of presenting the world with a new and perfect monument of Egyptian antiquity, which can be recorded as superior to any other in point of grandeur, style, and preservation, appearing as if just finished on the day we entered it; and what I found in it will show its great superiority to all others. Not fifteen yards from the last tomb described, I caused the earth to be opened at the foot of a steep hill, and under a torrent, which, when it rains in the desert, pours a great quantity of water over the very spot I have caused to be dug. No one could imagine, that the ancient Egyptians would make the entrance into such an immense and superb excavation just under a torrent of water; but I had strong reasons to suppose, that there was a tomb in that place, from indications I had observed in my pursuit. The Fellahs who were accustomed to dig were all of opinion, that there was nothing in that spot, as the situation of this tomb differed from that of any other. I continued the work, however, and the next day, the 17th, in the evening, we perceived the part of the rock that was cut, and formed the entrance. On the 18th, early in the morning, the task was resumed, and about noon the workmen reached the entrance, which was eighteen feet below the surface of the ground. The appearance indicated, that the tomb was of the first rate: but I did not expect to find such a one as it really proved to be. The Fellahs advanced till they saw that it was probably a large tomb, when they protested they could go no farther, the tomb was so much choked up with large stones, which they could not get out of the passage. I descended, examined the place, pointed out to them where they might dig, and in an hour there was room enough for me to enter through a passage that the earth had left under the ceiling of the first corridor, which is thirty-six feet two inches long, and eight feet eight inches wide, and when cleared of the ruins, eight feet nine inches high. I perceived immediately by the painting on the ceiling, and by the hieroglyphics in basso relievo, which were to be seen where the earth did not reach, that this was the entrance into a large and magnificent tomb. At the end of this corridor I came to a staircase twenty-three feet long, and of the same breadth as the corridor. The door at the bottom is twelve feet high. At the foot of the staircase I entered another corridor, thirty-seven feet three inches long, and of the same width and height as the other, each side sculptured with hieroglyphics in basso relievo, and painted. The ceiling also is finely painted, and in pretty good preservation (See Plate 2). The more I saw, the more I was eager to see, such being the nature of man: but I was checked in my anxiety at this time, for at the end of this passage I reached a large pit, which intercepted my progress. This pit is thirty feet deep, and fourteen feet by twelve feet three inches wide. The upper part is adorned with figures, from the wall of the passage up to the ceiling. The passages from the entrance all the way to this pit have an inclination downward of an angle of eighteen degrees. On the opposite side of the pit facing the entrance I perceived a small aperture two feet wide and two feet six inches high, and at the bottom of the wall a quantity of rubbish. A rope fastened to a piece of wood, that was laid across the passage against the projections which form a kind of door, appears to have been used by the ancients for descending into the pit; and from the small aperture on the opposite side hung another, which reached the bottom, no doubt for the purpose of ascending. We could clearly perceive, that the water which entered the passages from the torrents of rain ran into this pit, and the wood and rope fastened to it crumbled to dust on touching them. At the bottom of the pit were several pieces of wood, placed against the side of it, so as to assist the person who was to ascend by the rope into the aperture. I saw the impossibility of proceeding at the moment. Mr. Beechey, who that day came from Luxor, entered the tomb, but was also disappointed of advancing any farther.

The next day, the 19th, by means of a long beam we succeeded in sending a man up into the aperture, and having contrived to make a bridge of two beams, we crossed the pit. The little aperture we found to be an opening forced through a wall, that had entirely closed the entrance, which was as large as the corridor. The Egyptians had closely shut it up, plastered the wall over, and painted it like the rest of the sides of the pit, so that but for the aperture, it would have been impossible to suppose, that there was any farther proceeding; and any one would conclude, that the tomb ended with the pit. The rope in the inside of the wall did not fall to dust, but remained pretty strong, the water not having reached it at all; and the wood to which it was attached was in good preservation. It was owing to this method of keeping the damp out of the inner parts of the tomb, that these apartments are so well preserved. I observed some cavities at the bottom of the well, but found nothing in them, nor any communication from the bottom to any other place; therefore we could not doubt their being made to receive the waters from the rain, which happens occasionally in this mountain. The valley is so much raised by the rubbish, which the water carries down from the upper parts that the entrance into these tombs is become much lower than the torrents; in consequence, the water finds its way into the tombs, some of which are entirely choked up with earth.