Part 2

Description of the mountains round the valley—water descends from the desert, 194, 195.

Further difficulties in obtaining a boat, 195.

Curious incident by which the boat was obtained, 198.

Trial respecting the boat, and decision in favour of the author, 199, 200.

Works recommenced in Gournou—embark the colossal bust of Memnon, 205.

Preparations for departing to Cairo—Ophthalmia—leave Thebes for Cairo, 208, 209.

Arrival in Cairo—leave Cairo for Alexandria, 209, 210.

Arrive in Rosetta—Bogase—and in Alexandria—landed and lodged the colossal head in the Bashaw’s magazine ready to be embarked for England—farther proposal to ascend the Nile, 210–212.

Return to Cairo—account of Captain Cabillia’s operations at the Pyramids, 213.

SECOND JOURNEY.

Left Cairo for Thebes, 219.

Stopped at Tabeen and Boorumbol, 220, 221.

Description of an Arabian dance—arrival at Minieh, 222.

Arrival at Eshmounein, and sudden departure for Luxor, 224, 225.

A forced march to Thebes, 226.

Account of Bedoween horsemen and their tents, 227.

Disagreeable consequences occasioned by the interpreter omitting to send a letter to the Defterdar Bey, 229.

Another interview with the Cacheff of Erments—miracles performed by a Santon, 233.

Further proceedings in Luxor, 235.

Description of the temple of Carnak, 236.

Further proceedings in Thebes, 239.

Description of the natives, and tombs of Gournou, 241.

Observations on the mode of discovery of the tombs, 242.

Further account of the natives—manner of the Fellahs making their researches, 248.

Purchase two metal vases from a chief of the Fellahs, 250.

Further operations and discovery of lion-headed sphinxes in Carnak, 252.

Iron sickle discovered under one of the sphinxes, 252.

Further knowledge acquired on the discovery of tombs—Herodotus’s description of mummies, 257.

Observations on the various classes and descriptions of mummies, 260, 261.

Of animal mummies, 261.

Of mummy priests, 265.

Mummies discovered in their original position, 266.

Further account of mummies, 266, _et seq._

Their decorations—linen manufactures—enamelling, gilding and other arts, 268.

Art of painting, 271.

Sculpture, 272.

Architecture, and knowledge of arches with a key-stone, 273.

Sculpture, 278.

Uncover the foundation of a temple in the waste of Gournou—curious manner in discovering a tomb, 279, 280.

Description of a night’s lodging in the tomb, 281.

Happiness of the natives of Gournou, 282.

Their preparations for a wedding, 284.

Proceedings in Carnak—discovery of a colossal head—accumulate various articles, 286.

Arrival of the Defterdar Bey at Gamola, and his orders—receive information from the Sheik of Gournou, 287, 288.

Present a letter from the Bashaw to the Defterdar Bey, 288.

The Bey visits Thebes, 288.

He visits Medinet Aboo, 290.

His barbarous conduct towards the Sheik of Gournou, 293.

He ascends the Nile, and returns to Thebes, 296.

Interview with the Bey on his return from Deraou, 297.

Arrival of two of the fathers of the Propaganda at Thebes, 299.

Description of a whirlwind, 303.

Mirage, 304.

Locusts—deception of Defterdar Bey in issuing a firman for men to work, 305–307.

Preparations for and departure to the island of Philoe—further account of its monuments, 308, _et seq._

Preparations for Ybsambul—arrival of Captains Irby and Mangles, 314.

Celebration of the birth-day of his Majesty George III.—leave Philoe, and arrive at Ybsambul, 315, 316.

Proceed to the second Cataract—combination of the natives and boatmen to extort money, 317.

Return to Ybsambul—arrival of the Cacheffs, Daoud and Khalil—displeasure of Khalil—preparations for opening the temple, 318, 319.

Commence opening the temple, 320.

Works stopped by the Ramadan—resolve to work ourselves, 322.

Visits from strange Cacheffs, said to be from Ibrim, 324.

Their conduct, 325.

Works continued—entry into the temple—description of the interior, 327–330.

Description of the exterior, 331.

Leave Ybsambul, 333.

Arrive at Tomas—return to Deir, 334.

Arrive at Almeida—return to Kalabshe—opposition of the natives to our entering the temple, 336.

Arrival at Hindau, 337.

Arrival at Debod, and return to Philoe—descend the cataract to Assouan—visit the granite quarries and the Latin inscription, 338, 339.

Departure from Assouan—pass Edfu—landed at Elethias—description of it, 339, 340.

Return to Luxor, 342.

Return to Erments to obtain a firman for labourers to work at Gournou—the Cacheff is displaced by the Bey, 343.

Commence searching for the kings’ tombs, 345.

Description of the valley of Beban el Malook, 349.

Number and description of the tombs, 349.

Further discovery of tombs, 352.

Arrival of travellers, 355.

Their visit to a newly discovered tomb, 355.

Recommence operations, and point out the spot where the great tomb is found, 357.

Further proceedings, 358.

Enter the tomb, 359.

Further entrance, and description of its various apartments, 361, _et seq._

Discovery of the sarcophagus of alabaster, 366.

Description of the entrance into the tomb of Psammuthis, 367.

Description of the various representations in the tomb, and figures in sculpture on the walls, 368.

Painting—method taken for procuring a _fac simile_ of the tomb, 371.

Description of the various figures, 372.

Dr. Young’s discovery of the name of the tomb, 375.

Continuation of the description of the figures, 376, _et seq._

Mahomet Aga visits the tomb, 381.

Unfortunate fate of the stones prepared to be taken from the isle of Philoe, 384.

Arrival of a noble family and the consul at Thebes—set off for and arrive at Boolak, 386–388.

Meet with Count de Forbin, 389.

Despatches arrive from India, 391.

Farther account of Count de Forbin, 392.

Transmit to Europe, by the Count, on account of his proceedings, 393.

Visit the Pyramids—reflection on the possibility of penetrating that of Cephrenes, and motive which induced the author to undertake it, 395.

Difficulties encountered, 397.

Observations on the Pyramids, 399.

Mode of obtaining permission for the operation, 400.

Caution observed not to let the proceedings be known, 401.

Begin the undertaking, 403.

Foundation of a large temple discovered, 404.

Tedious operations without any prospect of success—first discovery of an entrance, 406, 407.

Disappointment, and determination still to persevere, 411.

Calculation by which the true entrance was discovered, 412.

Again resume the work—Arrival of Chevalier Frediani, 413, 414.

Discovery of the blocks of granite belonging to the true entrance—discovery of the true entrance, 415.

Difficulties in entering—description of the portcullis, 416, 417.

Description of the interior—the sarcophagus found in the great chamber, 418–420.

Arabic inscription observed on the wall of the chamber—translation of it, 421, 422.

Bones found in the sarcophagus—place from whence the stones have been taken for building the Pyramids, 426, 427.

Accounts of the Pyramids, 428, _et seq._

The supposed purpose for which they were erected, 430.

Their dimensions, 432.

Opinion on there not being hieroglyphics on the Pyramids, 432.

Their coating—on their being surrounded by the Nile—operation on the third Pyramid, 433, 435.

Preparations for a third journey to Thebes, 436.

Set off for Thebes, 438.

RESEARCHES AND OPERATIONS

IN

EGYPT, NUBIA, &c.

FIRST JOURNEY.

We sailed from Malta on the 19th of May, 1815, and arrived at Alexandria on the 9th of June following; Mrs. Belzoni, myself, and James Curtain, a lad, whom I brought with me from Ireland, formed our party. The principal cause of my going to Egypt was the project of constructing hydraulic machines, to irrigate the fields, by a system much easier and more economical than what is in use in that country. On entering the harbour of Alexandria, the pilot informed us, that the plague was in the town. To an European who had never been in that country, this was alarming intelligence. As I wished to have some information concerning the state of the disease, we did not land till the next day, when two European gentlemen came alongside in a boat, and informed us, that it was rapidly diminishing. We accordingly landed, but with much caution, as in our way to the French Occale, where we were to perform quarantine, we had to pass through the town. Fortunately, St. John’s day, which is the 24th of June, was not far off; and on that day the plague is supposed to cease. Some superstitious persons attribute this to the power of the saint himself; but it is too well known, that extreme heat checks the plague in the same manner as the cold season; and I observed myself, that when the heat of summer was not so great as usual, the plague lasted longer; while, on the other hand, when the cold season lasted longer, the plague came later.

The necessity of putting ourselves into a voluntary prison; the caution we were obliged to take, not to touch any person, or suffer any one to touch us; the strict order to be observed in receiving any thing that came from out of doors; and the continual perfumes with which we were regaled, to prevent the plague, as they say, were extremely strange to a novice in the customs of the country. We were confined to our apartment, and for three or four days no one came near us. We were really sick, but I took the caution not to let it be known; for the plague is so dreadful a scourge, and operates so powerfully on human fears and human prejudices, that, during its prevalence, if a man be ill, he must be ill of the plague, and if he die, he must have died of the plague: no inquiry is made, no examination takes place. Accordingly, had the people of the Occale come to the knowledge of our being indisposed, and particularly that we vomited, they would have concluded, though it was merely the effect of a new climate, that we had caught the pestilence in passing through the town; and the whole Occale would have been struck with terror, thinking the enemy was within the gate.

The Occale is an enclosure of several houses, so disposed as to form a square. There is no entrance to the area of the square but by the great gate, leading to a common staircase, above which a gallery takes you to every house. In plague time, the people of these habitations must communicate with each other without touching: no provision can enter without being passed through water, nor must bread be touched whilst warm. The disease is so easily caught, that a piece of thread blown by the wind is quite sufficient to infect the whole country. Had it been known that we were ill, no one would have come near us, except the Arabs, who go in case of sickness indiscriminately to every one; and are thus likely to spread the plague, by giving it to those who had it not. Many die the victims of neglect, merely because every disease is taken for the plague: others are victims of a different kind, of the atrocious, interested views of their relatives, who, profiting by their death, may take what advantage they please, even by poison, as no investigation takes place in any instance. “He died of the plague” is the general cry, whatever may be the disease; and as several hundreds perish daily, they are all carried away without distinction.

After the 24th of June, called the great St. John, the plague nearly ceased; and as my principal view was to reach Cairo, we hired a boat, in company with Mr. Turner, an English gentleman, who was going up the Nile. We sailed on the 1st of July, but, owing to contrary winds, were brought back the same evening. The next day we re-embarked, and were then obliged to land at Aboukir, in consequence of high winds. We visited the place, where many a brave fellow had fallen a sacrifice to the war, and to the glory of his country. Human bones were scattered here and there.

Continuing our voyage the same day, we entered the mouth of the Nile, and landed at Rosetta; four days more brought us to Boolak, within a mile of Cairo. Though our eyes began to be accustomed to the sight of the Arabs in Alexandria, the bustling scene here was still more striking. The majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various costumes, without regularity or discipline, Arabs of many tribes, boats, canjeas, camels, horses, and asses, all in motion, presented a striking picture. I landed, and went immediately to Cairo; and as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta could not receive women within their walls, we were accommodated in an old house in Boolak, belonging to Mr. Baghos, to whom I was recommended. He was the principal interpreter of Mahomed Ali, and director of all foreign affairs: a man of great acuteness of understanding, and so well disposed towards strangers, particularly Europeans, that it was soon arranged, that on such a day I was to be presented to his highness the Bashaw, to make my proposal. The house we inhabited was so old and out of repair, that I expected every moment it would fall on our heads; all the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was in so wretched a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door was fastened simply by a pole placed against it, having neither lock nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in it, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state. The whole furniture consisted of a single mat in one of the best rooms, which we considered as our drawing-room. We had mattresses and linen with us, otherwise we must have adopted the Arab method of sleeping: as no chairs are to be had in this country, we sat on the ground; a box and a trunk served as a table: fortunately, we had a few plates, as well as knives and forks, which we had provided to use in the boat; and James, our Irish lad, bought us a set of culinary utensils, of pottery. Such were our accommodations.

Though my principal object was not antiquities at that time, I could not restrain myself from going to see the wonder of the world, the pyramids. I took an opportunity of going with Mr. Turner, who obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw to accompany us. We went there to sleep, that we might ascend the first pyramid early enough in the morning to see the rising of the sun; and accordingly we were on the top of it long before the dawn of day. The scene here is majestic and grand far beyond description: a mist over the plains of Egypt formed a veil, which ascended and vanished gradually as the sun rose and unveiled to the view that beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids on the south marked the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn, endless spectacle of the desert on the west inspired us with reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile lands on the north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descending towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo, and its numerous minarets, at the foot of the Mokatam mountain on the east; the beautiful plain which extends from the pyramids to that city; the Nile, which flows magnificently through the centre of the sacred valley, and the thick groves of palm-trees under our eyes; all together formed a scene, of which very imperfect ideas can be given by the most elaborate description. We descended to admire at some distance the astonishing pile that stood before us, composed of such an accumulation of enormous blocks of stones, that I was at a loss to conjecture how they could be brought thither; and presently we entered the pyramid: but I must reserve for some other time the more minute account of this wonderful work. We went round the second pyramid, examined several of these mausoleums, and returned to Cairo with the satisfaction of having seen a wonder, which I had long desired, but never supposed I should have the happiness to behold.

A few days after we made a party of Europeans, to go as far as Sacara by water, and after visiting the pyramids of that place, the party returned to Cairo, except Mr. Turner and myself, who went to see the pyramids of Dajior. These are considerably smaller than the large ones, I believe in the proportion of about one to six. One of them is of a different form, as it has a curve in the angles, which brings it to a perpendicular near the ground. This, and those at Sacara, which appear like hanging galleries, differ from the generality in point of shape; but the two of Dajior are in better preservation than any of the rest. I observed also near Sacara and Betracina, which I believe to be the central part of Memphis, the remains of other pyramids, which, by their dilapidated state, induced me to suppose, that they are of an earlier date than any of the rest. At this time I had no opportunity of visiting the pits of the embalmed mummies of birds; but a Fellah brought us one of the earthen vases that contained a bird, which I believed to be a hawk by the shape of the bones. The vase was so perfect, that we laughed at the Arab for his attempting to impose on us. Seeing that he could not sell his piece of antiquity, and that he was laughed at besides, he broke the vase before us, to show what connoisseurs we were of antiques. We overshot the mark this time; for the caution that had been given us, never to credit what an Arab says, made us disbelieve the truth. On our returning towards the Nile, we passed by the broken pyramid of sun-baked bricks; and it appeared to me, on examining it afterwards, that it did not decay gradually, like the other pyramids, but by large masses of the bricks separating at a time from the rest.

On our arrival at the Nile it was quite night, and we had to pass several villages to come to a place where we could embark for old Cairo. Our road was through a cluster of palm-trees, which by moonlight had a most solemn effect. Some of the Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes on the tambourines; and, forgetting perhaps the slavish condition in which they are held by the Turks, were happy for a while. We took a small boat, and arrived in old Cairo before day. Two days after I was to be presented to the Bashaw on the subject of my hydraulic project; and accordingly I went to the house of Mr. Baghos, where I first became acquainted with the late Mr. Burckhardt. This acquaintance was a fortunate circumstance for me, as the various and important information I acquired from him proved to be of the greatest service to me in that country, and I shall ever remember it with the deepest gratitude. Going to the citadel with Mr. Baghos, we had to pass through several of the principal streets, which are always crowded with people, and for this reason a stranger supposes the capital to be very populous; but except these streets and the bazars, the rest of the town is quite deserted, and a great number of falling houses and much rubbish are to be seen every where. We were mounted on our asses, the most convenient and only mode of travelling for Franks in that city. We met a soldier on horseback, who, when he came near, gave me such a blow with his stirrup upon my right leg, that I thought he had cut it in two. The stirrups of the Turks, which are like shovels, cut very sharp; and one of the corners, catching the calf of my leg, tore off a piece of flesh in a triangular form, two inches broad, and pretty deep. After this he swore two or three oaths at me, and went on as if nothing had happened. The blood ran out copiously; and, instead of seeing the Bashaw, I was taken to the convent of Terrasanta, as the nearest Christian place I could go to. It is to be remarked, that, at this time, there was a great discontent among the soldiers against the Bashaw, for having given orders, that they should learn the European military evolutions; and, as I was in a Frank’s dress, I suppose the fellow paid me for what he had learned of European fighting. From the convent I was taken home to my house in Boolak, where I remained under cure for thirty days, before I could stand on my legs.

During my confinement in this house, I had an opportunity of observing at some distance the manners of the Arabs, who passed under our window. Our house stood in a good situation, where we could observe all the landing from the boats that came from Alexandria and Rosetta. All the goods which went or came passed our residence; and the caravans of the Moors from Mecca halted for several days in this place. It was a strange sight for us, to observe these people in their tents, living in separate families, while their chief occupation was sitting on the ground, smoking, singing, and saying prayers, which I observed lasted sometimes three or four hours, besides the ceremonial prayers, repeated standing and kneeling. I did not make any minute observations, for, as I have said, my first occupation was with a different view; nor did I expect at that period, that I should ever have any thing to do with these people, as a traveller.

When I recovered, I was presented to Mahomet Ali Bashaw, who received me very civilly. Seeing that I walked lamely, and being told the cause, he said, such accidents could not be avoided where there were troops. I made an arrangement with him, and undertook to erect a machine, which would raise as much water with one ox, as the machines of the country with four. He was much pleased with my proposal, as it would save the labour and expense of many thousands of oxen in the country; a matter of importance, since these animals are scarcely of any other use than working; for, though they are in pretty good condition, they are seldom killed for food, the Turks eating mutton, and the Arabs buffalo’s flesh, when they can afford it. The Bashaw was just returned from Arabia, where he had conquered some of the Wahaby tribes, and delivered the holy cities of Mecca and Medina from the Infidels. He himself conducted the war till lately, when his son Ibrahim Bashaw conquered some of the great chiefs, who were taken prisoners, and sent to Constantinople, where they were executed. Notwithstanding this, I am of opinion, that Mecca will be to the Turks, what Jerusalem is to the Christians; for unless a strong army be kept there, the of Mahomet Ali will have no better effect than that of our Godfrey of Bouillon.

During the time that I was engaged in preparing my hydraulic machine, one morning I went on the road towards Cairo, and, to my surprise, found a perfect silence, instead of the continual confusion of noise and bustle of every description. The boatmen were getting their boats ready, as if to set off immediately. No camels appeared to carry water to Cairo; no ass-drivers were seen; no shops open; and no person in the streets. I could not conceive what was the reason of this singularity, nor could I inquire of any one, as no person was in the way; but, being Friday, I concluded it might be some particular holiday with the Mahommedans. I went on, and still met no one. The distance from Boolak to Cairo is about a mile through an open country; and midway is a bridge, near which I found a group of soldiers. I continued my walk without noticing them; one of them, however, levelled a gun at me, and all the rest laughed at the idea of frightening a Frank.