Part 2

We left the old road in the morning and took Bryans. After about two hours' march we reached Lodge Pole Creek and forded it, our course then lying through the valley of the creek. There was good grass all through the valley, and myriads of flowers, but no wood. We were obliged to burn buffalo chips.

_June 13_ (Sunday). We marched to-day, as the Colonel wishes to get to a pine country about a hundred miles ahead. We went nineteen and three-quarter miles, this being the second camp on Lodge Pole Creek.

An order was published prohibiting dogs running at large, either on the march, at a halt, or in camp--hard on the canines, but they find no sympathy. Two other orders were published, one obliging the sick to attend all roll calls--no man has a right to be sick on a campaign!--the other stating that the Company should fall in at reveille _under arms_, so that on days when we do not march our weapons may remain stacked outside, to give the rain a chance to wash them and to allow the sun to better season the stocks.

_June 14_ (Monday). We marched nineteen miles along Lodge Pole Creek, the valley of which is one of the most beautiful portions of this country, requiring only the presence of trees to make it perfectly charming. Two chains of sand-bluffs skirt the valley, one on either side, and, toward the close of our march these bluffs began to assume a rocky appearance.

A curious and interesting novelty was seen by us to-day, an Indian dead lodge. It was a wigwam, built in the usual manner, the poles covered with buffalo hides, hair side in, and the opening of the lodge sewed shut with rawhide thongs. A pole was planted in the center of the tent and projected through the covering, about eight feet higher than the door; to the pole was suspended the distinguishing badge of the chief buried within, composed of painted eagle feathers, ornamented in a very neat manner with horsehair and beads. The ground around the lodge was ditched, and the sods piled around the bottom of the skins. About ten feet from the lodge, in front of the door, was a square patch of earth, dug up and carefully smoothed, and behind it a small mound of earth and sods, on top of which were placed two buffalo skulls, bleached white with the rains; they were arranged facing the lodge, as like two silent sentinels watching the repose of the dead, and the forehead of each bore ten red stripes, signifying that the defunct dignitary had borne his share of the perils of ten war-paths.

Although our curiosity was under the reins of respect for the deceased, yet we could not resist the temptation of getting just a peep at the internal arrangements; drawing one or two pegs from the bottom of the skins, we bent our straining vision into the solemn depth of darkness that reigned within. Needless to say, the olfactory nerves were first gratified, but as our eyes became accustomed to the uncertain light we could discern a shapeless mass, elevated upon crotched poles, and lying upon a bed of twigs, closely wrapped in skins. From the poles were suspended the quiver of arrows, the bow, the tomahawk, the pipe, and the ammunition pouches of the deceased. We carefully closed the lodge and left the dead to his solitude.

But, sad to relate, when our train had passed, not only the curiosity of some of the men was excited, but their cupidity also; in less than five minutes the before sacred resting place was, by heartless and relentless hands, left in desolate ruin.

_June 15_ (Tuesday). We did not march to-day, on account of an express being sent to Fort Laramie, about fifty miles from here, to ascertain if any orders are there for the command, to carry our mail matter, and to procure a guide to pilot us from Bridgers Pass to Fort Bridger. Having found that pine wood is available, a wagon was sent out, with a detail of men, to cut and bring in a load.

The Company was indulged in the luxury of a drill to-day, and notwithstanding the uneven nature of the ground, and the fact of our having been so long on the march, our men went through the movements and maneuvers with remarkable precision.

_June 16_ (Wednesday). We took up the march and went on a distance of nineteen and a half miles. We encamped again on Pole Creek, which we crossed once on the march. At one point we reached two high, rocky bluffs, covered with pine timber, the road ascending about half way to the top of the bluff on the right of the valley, and forming sort of a ledge along its almost precipitous side. Some large trees grew over the road and threw a shade across it. On the left of the road was a deep chasm, in which, about sixty feet below, ran the creek, thickly shaded on either side by dense shrubbery. This beautiful spot possessed such charms for us, coming as we did from the bleak, uninteresting prairie, that we stopped to rest, and thought ourselves transported into the regions of fairyland. But our pleasure was short-lived, for this oasis of the wilderness continued for only a half-mile, when the country again relapsed into the monotonous sky and prairie, relieved only by the scanty shrubbery which grew along the creek.

_June 17_ (Thursday). We are again encamped on Lodge Pole Creek, our day's march amounting to sixteen and three-fifths miles. The valley was somewhat more rolling than usual to-day. We crossed many ravines and hills, and once more crossed the creek. No timber is within sight yet. Antelopes are very numerous here, but so wild that it is almost impossible to kill any.

_June 18_ (Friday). We marched nineteen and a half miles, and again encamped on Pole Creek. A small party of men were detailed this morning to cut wood and bring it to the side of the road where the wagons could take it up. About the middle of the march we passed two more pine bluffs, one on each side of the valley, and afterwards emerged upon a long, level plain, where we came to a full stop before an ominous looking bog. Two or three wagons tried to cross; but wagons, mules and all settled down into the soft, black mud; the mules to their bodies and the wagons to the axle-trees. As the mules could not pull out, and the men failed in swearing them out, we were obliged to have recourse to what one of our party termed "main strength and stupidity." By the use of a little force two of the old settlers were extricated; the other proved more stubborn in its affection for "mother earth," and as the mules sat down disconsolately in the mud, we had to send ahead for the assistance of two or three more teams. We hitched on all the mules, and ourselves pulled on ropes attached to the wheels--and our labors and perseverance were finally rewarded with success.

When we reached camp we found an old guide named Duval waiting for us. He was sent over from Fort Laramie, and had been waiting a day or two for our appearance. Duval had shot a fine buck antelope, which he presented to us, and evening found us busily engaged around our camp fires, cooking our steaks.

_June 19_ (Saturday). We marched eighteen and three-quarter miles, passing over a level prairie throughout the march. We crossed the creek once more--we had the pleasure of crossing it seven times yesterday--and are encamped upon it again, also. As we are now rapidly approaching its source the creek is growing quite shallow, but the water is, if anything, purer and colder. Near the close of the march two or three white clouds were on the horizon, in front and a little to the left of us. All the firmament, except this one spot, was perfectly innocent of anything like a cloud, and the objects themselves kept such a stubbornly immovable position that we began to doubt whether they were clouds after all. As we approached camp they changed their appearance not in the least, except that they grew somewhat larger. When we were encamped a party ascended a bluff nearby and satisfied ourselves that we were actually in sight of the Medicine Bow Mountains. This was a new and grand sight to many of us. On our right, far in the distance, could be descried a long range of mountains, stretching away as far as the eye could see. Compared with the color of the rolling prairie, that fills up the expanse between us and the mountains, they are a dusky black--hence the name, "Black Hills." The appearance is owing to the density of the pine timber with which the hills are covered.

Our men shot two antelopes, of which achievement we were all very proud.

_June 20_ (Sunday). We are now nearly six hundred miles from Fort Leavenworth. The day was spent in domestic occupations. Groups might be seen sitting in the shade of the wagons, the only objects which here afford a shade, engaged in mending the breaches in their breeches and other clothes. Others were busied in the laundry department. Others, again, were deep in the mazes of correspondence.

A most magnificent sunset was seen by us this evening. The God of Day was retiring from our vision, majestically robing himself in the dark, threatening thunder-clouds which were rapidly spreading over the heavens. The storm soon interposed its black curtain between us and the grand spectacle, and darkness reigned where before everything was bathed in a flood of silvery light.

_June 21_ (Monday). We marched twenty miles, and once more camped on Pole Creek. Our whole course lay along valleys, so that we obtained but one view of the mountains.

Several more antelopes were shot to-day. Either game is getting more plentiful, or else we are improving in the quality of our hunters. The Infantry are very successful in their hunting excursions.

_June 22_ (Tuesday). We made seventeen miles, and encamped for the last time on Pole Creek. The Chief Engineer was in a short-cut humor, when we started out this morning, moved thereto by the guide. We were marched around three or four bluffs, followed by the entire command, train and all; and this species of countermarching gave rise to many forcible expressions of disapprobation. We soon found the proper road, however, and started anew.

We are encamped this evening within the Cheyenne Pass, at the foot of the Black Hills. When within about four miles of camp we encountered a numerous party of Cheyenne Indians, who stood a respectable distance from us and surveyed us with great timidity. This tribe has given the Government considerable trouble by its hostile demeanor, and it has been but a short time since its members were taught one or two wholesome lessons; hence their caution in approaching United States troops. However, they followed us to camp, and, seeing nothing threatening in our behavior, gradually mingled with us and opened the business of "swap." Before tattoo they became quite sociable, and some of them entertained us by their dexterity with the bow and arrow, and showed us the leaves that they mix with their tobacco, to render it milder and to increase the quantity. We, in return, amused them with the curious workmanship of our Colt's revolvers and showed them the mechanism of a watch, which struck them with amazement.

A good joke was circulated this morning, at the expense of one of the sons of the "Emerald Isle." It appears he was on post as a sentinel, and the officer of the day, visiting his post in the early hours of the night, was promptly challenged, "Who comes there?" "Officer of the Day," was the answer. As that appeared to be the end of the matter, and as the officer was kept standing, he inquired why the countersign, which was "Scott," was not demanded. The sentinel replied that he did not know the countersign was the same for both guards. "Oh, yes," rejoined the officer, "the countersign is general throughout the camp." A short time after, the sergeant of the guard visited the sentinel and inquired whether the officer of the day had been there. "Yes, shure," said Pat, "and he told me that the countersign was 'Gineral' throughout the camp, and not 'Scott.'"

_June 23_ (Wednesday). We marched seventeen miles to the highest of the Black Hills, and then encamped. This has been the most interesting march we have yet had; the road ran through rich, luxurious valleys, over high hills, through cuts, in deep, dark ravines, winding among immense rocks and boulders or burying itself in the shady depths of dense pine woods. In the valleys we saw, long, rich grass, decorated by countless millions of flowers and wild rose bushes in full bloom. And upon the hills we beheld curious specimens of nature's skill in carving, many fantastic figures among the large sandstone rocks furnishing ample proof of it. Here, too, might be seen the unusual sight of wild flowers, in all the glory of summer, elevating their gorgeous heads above a bed of pure snow. The snow we considered such a novelty, it being the latter part of June, that we indulged in a set-to with snowballs.

From our camp upon the summit a most magnificent view can be had. On one side there is a steep descent for about a quarter of a mile, then, by crossing a stream, one ascends a very steep mountain, thickly covered with pines. As many of the giants of the forest lie upon the ground, in decay, as are standing, and the ground is covered by decomposed vegetable matter to a depth of three or four feet. On the side from which we came the hills may be seen, one below the other, some red with sandstone, some white with clay, some green with grass and shrubbery, and others black with pines. On the third side rough, ragged, toppling crags are piled, one upon the other, in the wildest and most picturesque confusion. The fourth side is more charming, if possible, even than the others; the whole immense valley stretching far, far away to the Medicine Bow Mountains, the Laramie River winding across it like a silver thread. This was our advent among the mountain scenery, and with it we were delighted.

_June 24_ (Thursday). We marched eight and a half miles, descending the hills to the Laramie River, where we were obliged to make a temporary halt, this stream being too rapid and deep to ford. It was found necessary to gain a crossing with our wits and the little paraphernalia that could be found in the train. Operations were commenced by unloading some of the wagons and inflating five or six of the pontons, or cylindrical floats, all that we had. This done, we had to get a rope across the river. Tying a sash-cord to the end of a two-inch rope, and enough twine to reach across the stream being tied to the other end of the cord, a volunteer from the infantry swam over with the end of the twine in his mouth. The rope was then drawn over, and the tools were tied to a cord, which ran on the rope with a slip-knot and was drawn over by the twine. A strong pile was driven into the ground and the ferry rope made fast to it. We then constructed a raft by lashing the pontons together, holding them with the wagon tongues and covering those again with the tailboards for a flooring. Another and heavier rope, being ready to send over, one of our men, Murphy, taking the end of the rope itself in his mouth, swam across with it. Tackling was rigged with blocks on the ferry rope, and to the side of the raft, and the raft made its first passage, with signal success, the current being the motive power.

So transportation commenced in earnest, a crew for the raft being selected from our men and First Sergt. F. W. Gerber taking command. Throughout the day the voice of the Sergeant could be heard above the din and uproar of this exciting occasion, shouting in the most impressive manner, as though implicit obedience could be obtained only by unheard of severity, "Haul away on the bow!" "Shlack on de shtern!" "'Way 'nofe!" "Fent off!" and similar incomprehensible expressions.

To-night we are on one side of the river and the Infantry on the other, our train having been the first to cross.

_June 25_ (Friday). We arose early in the morning and resumed operations, the Company being divided into parties and distributed around wherever of the most service. Sergt. James E. Wilson took a party of the Infantry and rigged up another rope ferry, which did very valuable service throughout the day, ferrying over the loads of the wagons, while the wagons themselves were sent over on the first ferry.

An attempt was made to draw the wagons across the stream by a rope; one was thus launched, but before it reached the middle of the river it overturned and filled. Only a small portion of the wagon was visible above the water, and to get it out it was necessary to move the rope from the tongue to one of the wheels. Four of our men volunteered for this service (Sergeant Pierce, Artificer Jordan, McGill, and Pat Murphy) and these worked indefatigably for nearly two hours, in cold water about five feet deep, their labors being finally rewarded with success.

Evening found us all safely encamped on the west side of the Laramie River.

_June 26_ (Saturday). A very beautiful day. Every day since we have been here the forenoon has been warm and sultry, but at noon a strong breeze springs up from the south and continues until sunset, when it ceases.

The Company was again divided into parties to-day, one bringing over the ropes and rigging upon the raft, and another coiling the ropes and repacking the wagons. It required the whole day to get things into marching order again, and night finds us all prepared for an early start upon the morrow.

Another metallic wagon was added to our train to-day--the Quartermaster, finding that we can handle pontons with such dexterity, thought it best to give us the care of them in order to facilitate matters in case of emergency. The Quartermaster informed us that it had been his intention to treat the Company with a little of the _aqua ardente_, but, owing to so much having been expended, both lawfully and surreptitiously, during the day, the liquor was almost "played out," and he could not afford the contemplated treat.

_June 27_ (Sunday). The Eight Fork of the Laramie River was reached and crossed, and we encamped upon the farther side, after marching sixteen miles. The country passed over was a level valley, almost barren of vegetation; small knots of sickly looking grass grew at remote intervals, and found but a miserable support among the stones and sand. We soon came to the fork of the river. It is here divided into several streams, the first six or seven being somewhat shallow and the ground between soft and boggy; but the last two streams are deeper and more rapid, the water exceedingly cold, and rushing over long, sharp stones with alarming rapidity. We had a great deal of trouble getting our train across, every team having to be doubled. The shouts of the teamsters, and the struggles of the mules in the mud and water, could be heard long after darkness had settled upon the busy camp.

We beheld another concourse of Cheyenne Indians assembled upon the hill, patiently awaiting our arrival. They continued all the afternoon hanging about the camp, trying to "swap" their goods for lead and powder. But very little ammunition could they obtain from us; we knew their hostile, treacherous character too well, and our duty to the Government better. We traded with the Indians for moccasins, rifle-covers, knives with bead-worked scabbards, etc.

One of the Indians espied a set of artificial teeth when one of our men, Horace Sexton, laughed, exposing the gold clasps as he did so. A group of curious Indians gathered about, peering into his mouth and chattering to one another, wondering that a white man should have gold teeth. In order to amuse them, Sexton took the teeth out of his mouth, whereupon the whole group of redskins retreated from him in terror; nor could they be induced to approach again, deeming him too familiar with black art to feel safe in his company.

One of the non-commissioned officers, Sergeant Gerber, wished to purchase a beautiful white pony that an Indian was riding. He offered him a handful of silver half dollars (the Indians are very eager to get hold of silver coins, out of which they make ornaments), but the Indian shook his head in the negative. Some biscuits and red chalk were added to the tempting pile of silver, but, after some hesitation, the Indian still declined the "swap." A new uniform coat was then offered also. This pleased the Indian wonderfully; turning it over and over, he surveyed it in every light, admired the yellow chevrons, laughed and betrayed great eagerness to get possession of the gaudy garment. But looking once more at his faithful pony, he declined the bargain. Suddenly, a bright idea seemed to strike him--he wanted the coat, and proposed to give the owner a squaw for it, which generous offer was of course declined, amid loud peals of laughter from the bystanders.

A group of Indians had gathered about the forge, gazing at it with reverential awe. One of them, making a quick motion of his hands, out from his body, and making an explosive sound with his breath, to represent the report of a gun, exclaimed, "Smoke wagon," meaning a cannon. At this moment, Bourcey, the blacksmith, who was fitting on a mule's shoe, returned with the shoe at the end of the tongs, and, thrusting it into the fire, began blowing the bellows. It was laughable to see the stampede among the redskins when they saw this ominous maneuver--they thought he was going to fire the "smoke wagon."

_June 28_ (Monday). We encamped on Coopers Creek, having marched fourteen miles. Our road to-day extended along the chain of mountains, and lay over a hard, gravelly surface, thickly covered with small, argillaceous stones. We passed a pond this morning, the shores of which were encrusted with a white, crystallized substance, which, upon inspection, proved to be magnesia and nitrate of soda. Antelopes were seen in great number during the march, and two were shot.

At the conclusion of our march we suddenly found ourselves upon the brow of a high hill, overlooking a magnificent valley about two miles in length and a mile or more in width. The ground was covered with rich, luxuriant grass, mingled with patches of wild flowers of every hue. Two limpid mountain streams meandered across it, their banks skirted by graceful shrubbery and noble trees. We encamped in this Eden, and the calm peace that always pervades the mind when amidst the quiet beauties of wild nature came upon us weary pilgrims. The only drawback to this beautiful spot was the presence of that little demon--the mosquito. These insects annoyed us excessively; not a moment could we rest, but were obliged to keep our bodies continually in motion, and to burn tarred rope and buffalo chips in the tents.

A bog was discovered here which it was thought would have to be crossed in the morning, so the Company was turned out to repair it. We were sent about a mile to cut and carry logs and brush; but after we had completed the crossing a better and shorter road was found, and our labor amounted to nothing more than a proof of the powers of endurance of the invincible sixty-four.

_June 29_ (Tuesday). We marched thirteen miles, to Medicine Bow Creek. We passed safely over four creeks, and were congratulating ourselves upon our success when we were stopped short upon the banks of Medicine Bow or Rock Creek. Here was a doleful sight; the creek was about thirty yards wide, with a current which rushed over the large boulders on the bottom with fearful impetuosity. Where it struck a large rock the water would dash up to a height of five or six feet. A stone, weighing about thirty pounds was thrown in, and finally rested on the bottom about three yards downstream from where it first touched the water; and it would not then have stopped in its onward career had it not been arrested by coming into contact with a larger stone on the bottom.