Part 9
As we proceeded up the stream, we met several canoes of _Indians_, deeply laden with venison for the factory. After receiving from us a small present of tobacco, they continued their course.
At 3 P.M. we had reached a large circular island on the south side of the river, called _Rainbow Island_. The view from this spot was delightfully picturesque. The northern shore was bounded with high clay banks, covered with dark forests of the spruce-pine tree. Above us, upon the southern banks, five or six remarkable mounds of earth rose majestically from the river. At the termination of a long view upwards, the stream was lost in a sudden bend to the northward; and the vista in that direction was bounded by a noble grove of poplars, that stood on the declivity of the green sloping bank; and their bright yellow colour formed a fine contrast with the sable hue of a frowning forest in the back ground. Directly opposite to the place where we stood, several _Indian_ canoes lay scattered about the shore; and the natives sat regaling themselves, around a blazing fire upon the beach. The river, glittering with the golden tints of the sun, ran smoothly beneath our feet; and a little farther down, foamed, in distant murmurs, over a shoal-bed of pebbles. Whilst we stood contemplating the varied objects in this interesting scene, a flock of wild geese flew screaming past; and a gentleman, who knew the country well, immediately observed, that we should have an “_early fall_;” thereby intimating that the winter would soon make its appearance. Our admiration of the fine view before us instantly gave way to other sensations; and we could not avoid wishing ourselves speedily out of a country where the transition is so instantaneous, from the most oppressive heat to intense cold; where the ground is bound up in frost eight months of the year; and the miserable inhabitants are tormented to madness by heat and mosquitoes during the remaining four.
Upon leaving _Rainbow Island_, we approached the spiral mounds of earth before mentioned. Their formation was so regular, that an enthusiastic antiquary might easily have believed them to be antient _Indian_ Tumuli; but upon a close inspection, we plainly perceived that they had been separated from the body of the bank by the ices in the spring; and they had probably assumed a circular form owing to the washing of the great floods which follow the breaking up of the rivers, and melting of the snows, at that season of the year.
About 5 P.M. we reached a place called _Poplar-fall_; and observing an _Indian_ wigwam on the north bank, we crossed the river, and encamped within pistol-shot of it. We had pitched our tent within the wood; and from it we could discern the river, at intervals, through the openings of the trees. Although we were but a short distance from the _Indian_ wigwam, yet the wood was so intricate, that we found it difficult to find our way thither. We, however, paid the natives a visit, and sat familiarly down in the wigwam. It contained one old and two young men, one old and one young woman, and five or six children of both sexes, besides two infants. The wigwam was a circular tent, constructed with three or four poles, lashed together at the top, and covered over with an inferior kind of leather, made of tanned deer-skins. In the midst of the tent was a blazing fire; and in the smoke above, a quantity of deer’s flesh was suspended, after the manner of bacon in _England_. On the outside of the hut, there were several stages, on which their strips of venison were exposed in the sun to dry, for the winter’s consumption. After sitting a short time with the natives, and inquiring at what part of the river the rein-deer were crossing, we were at length about to depart, when the old _Indian_ presented Captain _Stopford_ with eight deers’ legs, which, when roasted, are considered a great delicacy, on account of the rich marrow they contain. The young woman then gave another of our party a deer’s heart and tongue; and the old squaw, whose aspect was sufficient to give any man a dis-relish to the whole sex, kindly tossed into my lap a head and a brisket. Laden with these presents, we returned to our tents, and dined heartily off a tongue and heart, _ponasked_. But our kind _Indian_ neighbours had not been so exceedingly munificent without entertaining strong expectations of an adequate remuneration: accordingly, the visit was soon returned by the whole horde; and the old _Indian_ brought a kettle in his hand, which was intended as a _gentle hint_ that he wished for a liquid equivalent. We therefore gave him about a quart of rum, mixed with three quarts of water, and a trifling supply of tobacco. Extraordinary as it may appear, this small donation was amply sufficient to intoxicate every member of the wigwam; and their voices resounded, in song, through the woods, for many hours after we had retired to rest.
Very shortly after the first dawn of day, we were awakened by the old _Indian_: he came to inform us, that several herd of deer had already crossed the river, and that it was high time we should repair to our stations, to intercept any more which might attempt to follow; as it is an ascertained fact, that these animals, during their periodical journeys, are accustomed to follow each other’s footsteps.
According to the old _Indian_’s advice, we proceeded about two miles farther up the river, until we reached a place called _Twenty-mile Island_; so named from its distance from _York Factory_. Still pursuing the directions of the friendly _Indian_, we hauled our canoe close to the beach, on the north side of the river; as, at this season of the year, the rein-deer, in pursuance of their northern journey, cross all the rivers from the southward. The _Indian_ proceeded with his canoe higher up the stream, and took his post opposite to the spot from whence he had seen the before-mentioned herds crossing in the morning: he then concealed himself in the high grass, by the side of his canoe; and we also followed his example. After lying thus in ambush for a short time, a small herd, consisting of five deer and a fawn, appeared on the south bank of the river, exactly opposite the old _Indian_’s canoe. The timid and wary animals stood for some time on the bank of the river, casting an inquisitive glance across the water. We all crouched closer than before, in the grass; and we had soon the satisfaction to see the whole herd leap boldly from the shore. The _Indian_ above us immediately pushed across the stream with his canoe, to intercept the retreat of the deer; and this he was enabled to do unobserved, as he was also a considerable distance above the deer; and the animals neither looked to the right nor to the left, but kept their eyes anxiously fixed on the shore which they were endeavouring to reach. As our lurking-place was about half a mile lower down than the place from whence the deer had taken to the water, and the rapid current of the river naturally drifted them downwards, they would have attempted to land close to us, had not a shoal in the river arrested their progress, upon which they mounted; and by their superior height they immediately discovered us. The deer now stood hesitating what they should do; and so in fact did we: but our _Indian_ co-adjutor having by this time succeeded in gaining the opposite shore, called loudly on us to rise and advance. As soon as we sprang from the grass, the affrighted herd replunged into the river, and attempted to gain the shore which they had quitted; but we pursued them across the stream with such activity, that only one effected its landing, and the remaining four again turned their heads to gain the northern bank. From this moment their deaths were considered inevitable, as the chief skill then lay in continually turning the weary animals from the shore, which we were easily enabled to do, by the superior speed of our canoe. The _Indian_, meanwhile, followed close behind a large buck, until it approached the bank; when he deliberately speared it in the haunch; and as it emerged from the water, he fired a bullet into its body: yet the animal ran with speed into the wood, and we all naturally concluded it must have escaped;—but the skilful hunter smiled at the idea: “No, no,” said he; “I have it safe:—now for another;” on which, he wheeled about his canoe, and instantly speared to death an amazing fine doe. My gun being loaded with goose-shot only, I discharged it into the rump of the surviving doe, which bled profusely; I also again fired, and struck it on the nose, when my ramrod unfortunately fell overboard: however, we still kept turning the animal from the shore; and having now no weapon in the canoe wherewith we could kill it, I was obliged to halloo for the _Indian_ to bring us a spear; accordingly, he paddled towards the deer with all his might, and, on reaching our canoe, tossed me the spear. Following the native’s example, I made a deep thrust into its haunch, which soon put an end to its existence; and putting a cord over its head, we towed it on shore in triumph.
As the _Indian_ had predicted, he soon found the carcase of the wounded buck, lying about ten yards within the wood. Thus we succeeded in obtaining _three_ out of the original _five_: and with respect to the other two; one, as above-mentioned, made good its escape in the first instance; and the fawn also landed, whilst we were engaged with the doe.
I have been more particular in relating this expedition, because it will serve as a specimen of the general manner in which the _Indians_ procure their supplies of venison and deer-skins. There have been instances of taking the rein-deer alive, by throwing a rope about the antlers; but this can only be attempted by a boat, as the sudden plunges of the animal, when thus entangled, is very likely to upset a slight bark canoe.
From the continual crossings that we had made athwart the stream, whilst in pursuit of the deer, the current had drifted us down about two miles below our encampment, which we did not regain until towards evening; and our _Indian_ neighbour soon paid us a visit, to talk over the day’s sport. Having received another present of _Scutee Wapper_[36] (rum) and tobacco, he wished us a good-night; and their songs shortly afterwards began to swell on the air; giving to us a sure indication of the liquor having had its due effect on their senses.
To conclude my account of the rein-deer of _Hudson’s Bay_, I must observe, that they are evidently the same species with those of _Lapland_; although the _Indians_ have never attempted to render them in any way useful for domestic purposes: but Lord _Selkirk_, with his usual perseverance, has procured people from _Sweden_ to train the rein-deer in _Hudson’s Bay_; although they have not yet been a sufficient time in the country to ascertain the practicability of such a scheme[37].
If the _Indians_ be so fortunate, during their hunting journeys, as to kill a rein-deer in the woods, they eat of it until they literally cannot cram another mouthful. When their meal is finished, they erect a high stage, on which they lay the remainder of the carcase, so as to secure it from the wild beasts; and then cover it with branches of trees, to defend it against the birds of prey. All this trouble is taken, that the food which they are compelled by necessity to leave behind them may be of service to some wandering tribe of hunters like themselves, who may not have been so fortunate as to have met with any deer in their journey.
When, therefore, in traversing the immense plains or forests of the interior, a half-famished _Indian_ descries at a distance one of those charitable stages erected on high for his relief, he hails the cheering sight with the same feelings of delight that is experienced by a tempest-tost and bewildered sailor, when he descries, through the dark clouds of a stormy night, the cheering fire-beacon which denotes the situation of a sheltering port. Whenever an _Indian_ has satisfied his hunger at one of the stages in question, he marks the supporting poles with the character peculiar to his tribe; so that those to whom he is indebted for relief may perceive, on their return, whether their friends have benefitted by their humane intentions. And it is a singular point of honour amongst them, that if, by the characters before mentioned, they should discover that the stage had been erected by an hostile tribe, they will rather suffer the severest pangs of hunger than be obliged to their enemy for relief.
Upon our return to the factory from the deer-hunt, we found much anxiety prevailing respecting the safety of a small schooner, which had sailed hence, on our arrival, to bring the furs from _Churchill River_, and had not yet returned. There was the more foundation for such apprehensions, as it blew a heavy gale on the day after her departure, and she must consequently have been overtaken by it before she could have possibly reached her destined port. However, it was determined to wait her return until the 28th of _September_, when prudence dictated our departure, to avoid the risk of a detention for the whole winter. In the mean time, we occupied our time in procuring a stock of fresh provisions against the day of sailing. Accordingly, a party of _Indians_ were despatched in pursuit of game; and in a few days they returned with eleven hundred wild geese, which they had shot in the marshes to the southward of _York_; and several other parties of the natives poured in a copious supply of venison and wild duck.
Nor were we idle ourselves, as we constantly drew the _seine_ in the mouth of the river; but the supplies of fish thus obtained were exceedingly trifling. Of those we caught, the principal part consisted of mullet, and _tittameg_, a small delicate fish peculiar to the rivers of _Hudson’s Bay_.
Before I quit entirely this almost unknown country, I shall insert an extract from an author whose observations will serve materially to illustrate my own[38].
“The animals of _Hudson’s Bay_ are, the moose-deer, stags, rein-deer, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, lynxes, martens, squirrels, ermines, wild-cats, and hares; of the feathered kind, geese, bustards, ducks, partridges, and all manner of wild fowl: of fish, whales, morses, seals, cod, sea-horses, and sea-unicorns: and in the rivers and fresh waters, pike, perch, carp, and trout. There have been taken in one season, at _Nelson River_, 90,000 partridges, as large as hens; and 25,000 hares. Every thing changes white in winter; even _European_ animals after being a short time in the country.
“The inhabitants shew great ingenuity in kindling a fire, in clothing themselves, and in preserving their eyes: in other respects, they are very savage[39]. In their shapes and faces they do not resemble the _Indians_, who live to the south: they are more like the _Laplanders_ and _Samoeids_ of _Europe_, from whom they are probably descended. Those on the sea-coast are dexterous in managing their kiacks or boats[40]. The other _Americans_ seem to be of a _Tartar_ original.
“In 1670, a Charter was granted to a Company, which does not consist of more than nine or ten persons, for the exclusive trade to this Bay; and they have acted under it ever since, with great benefit to themselves. The fur and peltry trade might be carried on to a much greater extent, were it not entirely in the hands of this exclusive Company; whose interested, not to say inquisitive spirit, has been the subject of long and just complaint. The Company employ four ships, and 130 seamen[41].
“The _French_ destroyed the forts in 1782, valued at 500,000_l._ The Company export commodities to the amount of 16,000_l._ and bring home returns to the value of 29,340_l._ which yield to the revenue 3,734_l._ This includes the fishing in _Hudson’s Bay_.
“This commerce, small as it is, affords great profits to the Company, and is advantageous to _Great Britain_ in general; for the commodities we exchange with the _Indians_, for their skins and furs, are all manufactured in _Great Britain_; and as the _Indians_ are not very nice in their choice, those things are sent of which we have the greatest plenty, and which, in the mercantile phrase, are _drugs_ with us.——Though the workmanship, too, happens to be, in many respects, so deficient, that no civilized people would take it off our hands, it may nevertheless be admired by the _Indians_. On the other hand, the skins and furs we bring from _Hudson’s Bay_ enter largely into our manufactures, and afford us materials for a lucrative trade with many nations of _Europe_. These circumstances tend to prove incontestably the immense benefit that would redound to _Great Britain_ by throwing open the trade to _Hudson’s Bay_; since, even in its present restrained state, it is so advantageous. The exclusive Company, it is probable, do not find commerce so advantageous now as it was before we got possession of _Canada_. The only attempt made to trade with _Labrador_ has been directed towards the fishery.
“From the journeys of _M^cKenzie_ and _Hearne_, a complete confirmation has arisen, that there can be no northern communication between the _Atlantic_ and _Pacific Oceans_, except at so high a latitude that it must be impeded by perpetual ice.
“The mouth of the _Copper-mine River_, as ascertained by Mr. _Hearne_, lies in latitude 72° N.; longitude, 119° W. of _Greenwich_.”
Since the _British_ have had possession of _Canada_, a strong competition has arisen between the people of that country and the _Hudson’s-Bay_ traders. It is therefore doubtful whether the opening of a free trade into _Hudson’s Bay_ would be productive of those very advantageous results which Mr. _Pinkerton_ has supposed: the indefatigable _Canadians_ have contrived to carry their mercantile expeditions into almost every part of the N. W. continent of _America_; and it can be of little political consequence to the mother country, whether the peltry trade is made to pass through _Canada_ or _Hudson’s Bay_; except, indeed, that the opening of a free intercourse with the Bay might operate as a stimulus upon the _Esquimaux_, to animate their exertions in the seal and whale fisheries; as they would be then certain of finding an adequate market for their oil, whalebone, and seal-skins.
That nothing serves so effectually to deaden the spirit of mercantile application as an unjust monopoly, is evident, from an old record of the year 1742; which runs thus:—
“When the _Indians_ came to the factory in _June_ 1742, they could get but a pound of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a pound of shot for one beaver, an ell of coarse cloth for fifteen, a blanket for twelve, two fish-hooks or three flints for one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a pistol for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, an axe for four, a hedging-bill for one, a gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt for seven; all which was sold at the monstrous profit of 2000 per cent. Notwithstanding which discouragement, the _Indians_ brought down to _Port Nelson_ that season 50,000 beaver skins, and 9000 martens; these beaver skins being worth five or six shillings a pound; whereas those which the _English_ purchase at _New York_ are not worth more than three shillings and sixpence a pound.
“Besides these skins, the _Indians_, during the same year (1742), brought to the factory, at _Churchill_, 20,000 beaver skins.”
If the _Indians_ were industrious at a season when their labour was so miserably repaid, they would consequently become, at this moment, much more diligent; because, owing to the competition before noticed, they are certain of meeting with something like an adequate return for their commodities.
To this increased activity of the natives is probably owing the late very visible diminution in the staple article of their commerce, the beaver skins; as it is evident that those animals are becoming much more scarce, in consequence of the perseverance with which their haunts are sought out and invaded.
The 28th of _September_ having at length arrived, and the mercury in _Fahrenheit_’s thermometer having sunk to 20°, we gave up all hopes of the schooner returning from _Churchill_; and came to the melancholy conclusion, that she must have perished on her voyage. We therefore weighed anchor from _York River_, and steered our course towards the north, with an intention of touching, if possible, at the former place, to seek information of the schooner, and to get the furs from that factory; but a brisk gale springing up from the N. W. which was immediately against us, we gave up our design of visiting _Churchill_, and bore away for _Hudson’s Straits_. From henceforward we had one continued gale in our favour, until we reached the _Orkneys_, after an unparalleled quick voyage of nineteen days. In passing through _Hudson’s Straits_, we could perceive none of the drift-ice or _Esquimaux_, which were so plentiful in our voyage outwards: the former had been carried away to the ocean, by the prevalence of the southerly currents; and the latter had most probably retired to their winter habitations.
We saw, however, many _icebergs_ of enormous magnitude in the _Straits_; but, after leaving _Cape Resolution_, we reached the _Orkneys_ without noticing any more of those dangerous islands[42].
We remained at the _Orkneys_ nineteen days before the other _Hudson’s-Bay_ ship arrived from thence; but she had experienced much bad weather, and made a much longer passage than ourselves.
A few straggling remarks, made during our stay at the _Orkneys_, will conclude this Journal.
Entering _Stromness Harbour_, by the _Hoy Passage_, the view on either hand is extremely awful and sublime. _Hoy Head_ is a tremendous height; and it appears doubly so from a ship sailing near to it, as the western side of this craggy mountain is nearly perpendicular; so much so, indeed, that it obtained the appellation of _Hoy Walls_. At a particular part of this awful cliff, an immense rent has torn a large fragment from the wall; and this huge disjointed mass is now washed, on all sides, by the most terrific breakers. It stands however erect, repelling all their shocks; and it has assumed so completely the human form, as to be styled the _Old Man of Hoy_. This gigantic figure may be about five hundred feet high.
If the lowness of the eastern shore gives it a less grand appearance, yet the ledges of sunken rocks, on which many a gallant vessel has perished, together with the horrid breakers roaring mountain high above them, do not fail to inspire a spectator with equal awe and terror.
The Cathedral of _St. Magnus_, at _Kirkwall_, is built of a reddish kind of stone, in the shape of a cross; and it looks, at a short distance, much like a brick edifice. It is of very large dimensions; and appears to a stranger in a more imposing light, because it is erected on an eminence. The square tower issuing from the top of the cathedral, in the centre of the cross, was formerly surmounted by a magnificent spire; but being shattered some few years ago, by lightning, a mean brick substitute has since been erected. There is an amazing number of windows; many of which have been lately broken; and there are two in the shape of a rose, exceedingly antique and beautiful.