Part 2
July _1st_.—In the early part of the day the gale abated by degrees, and towards evening we had fine sunny weather. Wind still in the N. W. quarter; consequently we have made way to the S. W. since yesterday, about 67 miles. Latitude at noon this day, 59°. 10′. N.
July _2d_.—In the morning, we saw the _Lewis Islands_; and the wind chopping round to S. W. we tacked, and stood off shore to the N. W. At noon, as the wind continued to blow steady in the S. S. W., we steered W. N. W. Many Solan geese flying about: these are nearly the size of a tame goose, but the neck much shorter, and the wings longer, tipped with black; all the rest of their plumage being perfectly white. At night-fall, the weather misty, but not cold.
On taking our last departure from the land this morning, it is necessary to observe, that, in my narrative of the voyage, I shall merely state, on each day, the course and distance run by the ship in the preceding day, without making a dull account of latitude, longitude, bearings and distances, allowances for lee-way, currents, &c. &c.; as all this farrago of nautical calculation, however necessary it may be to mariners, cannot fail to tire out the patience of a general reader; and the object of this publication, is not so much to point out the track of the _Rosamond_, in her voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, as to describe the manners and customs of the different tribes inhabiting the shores of that immense gulf.
July _3d_.—Course run, W. by N. 66 miles. Thick, foggy weather. During the morning we frequently lost sight of our convoy, but saw them again on its clearing up. Light winds from the S. W. Ship standing to the north. Observed great quantities of a peculiar kind of sea-weed, in the shape of stars. Numberless sea-birds round the ship, particularly Solan geese.
July _4th_.—Course run, W. by S. ½ S. 79 miles. In the middle of the night we had a fair wind, which held during the day, accompanied by a thick fog; ship going generally about five miles an hour. Perhaps it is deserving notice, that, since our departure from _Orkney_, we never had a night so dark as not to be able to read and write.
July _5th_.—Course run, W. by N. ¼ N. 101 miles. During the night, lost our fair wind, and got a westerly breeze, with sunny weather. Towards noon, the wind again veered to the S. W. This day we obtained an observation of the sun, for the first time since our leaving _Orkney_, and found ourselves in latitude 59°. 8′. N. We saw neither Solan geese nor sea-weed.
July _6th_.—Course run, W. by S. ½ S. 90 miles. A fair wind all day, variable from N. E. to S. E., ship steering W. N. W. at about four miles an hour. Noticed the air to be getting much colder, probably occasioned by the wind shifting to the N. E. The sea-birds and weed appeared now to have taken their final leave of us; which certainly agrees with the great Cook’s opinion, that when met with in vast numbers, they are a certain indication of the proximity of land. In the evening, we saw a large _finner_ or two. Ship going about seven miles an hour.
July _7th_.—Course run, W. ¾ S. 121 miles. In the middle of the night, we lost our fair wind. Early in the morning, saw a strange vessel to windward, and made all sail after her: continued in pursuit the whole day, with light winds, varying from North to East. Every person on board was highly elated with the thoughts of a prize. All notion of the strange vessel’s being a friend was scouted; and it was carried _nem. con._ that she could be no other than a rich _American_ from _Archangel_, homeward bound.
July _8th_.—Course, W. by N. ¼ N. 79 miles. At one A.M. spoke the vessel that we were in pursuit of. She was a light brig from _Copenhagen_, bound to _Davis’ Straits_, where the _Danes_ have some settlements. Early in the morning we rejoined our convoy, and shortly afterwards perceived another brig to windward: we immediately made all sail in pursuit of her, but soon relinquished the chase, as we were apprehensive it might lead us too far from our convoy. Wind about N. by W. Ship standing to the westward. No birds to be seen, excepting one or two solitary sea-gulls, which are to be met with at any distance from the land.
July _9th_.—Course run, S. W. ¾ W. 107 miles. A gloomy day. Wind blowing fresh from the North. Towards evening, the wind abated; and it fell calm, which continued through the night.
July _10th_.—Course run, S. W. by W. ¾ W. 36 miles. At 2 A.M. the ship was so surrounded by myriads of porpoises, that it appeared as if they had some intention of taking us by _storm_. It is an opinion of the sailors, that those fish generally precede a smart gale, and make towards the point whence the wind will arise. These swarms were proceeding in a North-east direction. During the fore-part of the day we had light variable winds from the southward; and at noon were taken aback, with a stiff gale from the N. N. W.: it continued to blow hard in squalls.
July _11th_.—Course run, S. W. 32 miles. During this day, the wind blew a pleasant breeze from the N. W. At 10 A.M. we put about ship, and stood to the North. It is worthy of remark, that the sky had been so continually overcast, since we quitted the _Orkneys_, that we had been only able to procure the meridian altitude of the sun twice. Thus we had been twelve days already on our voyage, with only two good observations. It ought also to be mentioned, that we found ourselves much retarded by the bad sailing of the _North-west_ ships; but the _Moravian_ brig sailed very well.
July _12th_.—Course run, N. W. by W. 62 miles. It blew strong all night; but we had a fine day; and towards noon, the wind shifted round, and blew fair at South. We got a peep at the sun this day, and found we were in latitude 57°. 15′. N.
July _13th_.—Course run, W. ½ N. 76 miles. In the morning, the wind changed to N. by E. and blew a moderate breeze. After night-fall we had a faint appearance of the _Aurora Borealis_, in the shape of a _rainbow_, which rendered it peculiarly interesting.
July _14th_.—Course run, S. W. by S. 71 miles. At 9 A.M. we tacked about; and the wind coming fair, we steered N. W. by N. Our ship this forenoon was completely surrounded by innumerable flights of sea-gulls. I should imagine that they had been attracted hither by some unusual assemblage of fish, as they were all busily employed in attacks on the finny tribe.
July _15th_.—Course run, W. by N. 106 miles. This morning we were going five miles an hour, with a fair breeze and thick weather. It is to be observed, that, with a wind from the South-east or East, we have always had a fog; and I have also noticed this to be the case as far to the southward as the Banks of _Newfoundland_; although I am utterly incapable to account for it satisfactorily.
Since our departure from _Stromness_, the variation of the compass had been gradually increasing. We this day allowed for a difference of four points westerly, between the magnetic and the true needle; whereas at _Orkney_ there is only a difference of two points and a half, or 28 degrees. Thus it continued increasing until we arrived within about 300 miles of the settlements in _Hudson’s Bay_; when it decreases much more suddenly; falling away, in that short distance, to half a point, or five degrees, West—this being the ascertained variation at _York Factory_. I should think that no subject could exhibit to an inquisitive mind a more astonishing matter of inquiry, than the singular phenomenon which I have just noticed. Can any thing be more surprising, than that the variation should increase but eighteen degrees, in a run of upwards of 2000 miles to the westward; and that it should then begin to turn; and, in the short run of 300 miles on the same course, that it should suddenly decrease 41 degrees? An officer belonging to one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships attempted to account for this astonishing attraction of the needle, by supposing the contiguity of metallic mountains; but he could state no facts in support of his hypothesis: and, although the interior of the N. W. part of _America_ has doubtless been explored, and is even actually colonized, owing to the enterprising spirit of a _Selkirk_, yet I cannot learn that any metallic mountains have been discovered, with a sufficient profusion of ore to cause such an aberration in the compass, and at so great a distance[7].
Our latitude this day was 56°. 35′. N.; longitude 38°. W. Towards noon, our fair breeze died away, and we had light winds from the westward: in the evening, we exercised the men with the great guns, in firing at a cask in the water.
July _16th_.—Course run, N. W. ¼ N. 35 miles. Light winds and vexatious calms all this day. We now considered ourselves to be distant from the entrance of _Hudson’s Straits_ about 840 miles. I know not what reason could have induced the first discoverers of the northern regions to give such intimidating names to all the most conspicuous capes, promontories, bays, creeks, &c.; unless they were originally bestowed with a view of preventing others from visiting those countries; and at the same time to enhance the public opinion of their own courage:—for instance, we passed, in our voyage to _Hudson’s Bay_, _Capes Resolution_, _Comfort_, _Farewell_, _Discord_, and _Desolation_; also, _Icy_ and _Bear Coves_, and the _Islands of God’s Mercies_.
The ship was now continually surrounded by a species of sea-gull, which, on the water, looked very much like wild-ducks. Those birds appear to be spread in great multitudes quite across the mouth of _Davis’ Straits_, from _Cape Farewell_ in _Greenland_ to the coast of _Labrador_.
July _17th_.—Course run, W. by N. ¼ N. 20 miles. The light variable winds still continued through this day.
Towards evening we were highly entertained with a combat between a whale and two or three of that species of fish called _Finners_. The fury with which they engage is surprising. The whale, slowly lifting up his enormous tail, lets it suddenly fall on his opponents with a most tremendous crash; thereby throwing up foam to an amazing height. Although the Finners have incomparably the advantage in agility, yet in size and strength they fall but little short of the smaller whales. The Finners derive their name from an immense fin, which they use with great effect in their attacks on the whale. Sometimes they lift up this enormous fin, and let it fall upon their antagonist, in the manner of a thresher’s flail; at other times, they run their whole body perpendicularly out of the water, exhibiting a beautiful view of their snow-white bellies. In this position they have the singular power of turning round; and thus they contrive to fall sideways on the whale, with a shock that may be heard at a considerable distance.
The sea was this day covered with an oily appearance; and some old _Greenland_ fishermen, who were on board the ship, gave a marvellous account of its being occasioned by the sperm of the whale.
July _18th_.—Course run W. ¾ N. 65 miles. Early in the morning we had a fine breeze from the N. E. Latitude at noon, by an observation of the sun, 57°. 24′. N.; longitude, by our account, 41°. 17′. W. According to some charts, we considered ourselves this day to be in the longitude of _Cape Farewell_ in _Greenland_. Nothing can exceed the uncertainty that prevails, in almost every chart and book of navigation, respecting the longitude of the Cape in question. In proof of this, I shall quote an extract from the accompanying Memoir to Mr. _Purdy’s_ Chart of the _Atlantic_:—“Both the Requisite Tables, and _Connaissance de Tems_, state the latitude of _Cape Farewell_ at 59°. 38′. N., and longitude, _per_ chronometer, at 42°. 42′. W.; but the _Danish_ charts place the Cape _two degrees_ more to the West. We know not which is right, or if either; and have, _doubtingly_, placed it in 43°. 40′. W. as a mean between the two. This is a point on which further information is particularly required. The old books and charts place it from 44°. 30′. to 44°. 45′. W.”
Nothing can be a more serious inconvenience to mariners than this uncertainty respecting the latitude and longitude of places; and it is scarcely to be credited, that so little pains have been taken to ascertain the longitude of _Greenland’s_ southernmost extremity.
We experienced sharp cold this day, and ascribed it to the winds having blown over the mountains of _Greenland_, on their way towards us. As the next three days furnished no remarks worthy an insertion in this narrative, I shall barely notice the course and distance run by the ship on each day; and the reader may thus pass on to the _22d_.
July _19th_.—Course run S. W. by W. ¾ W. 60 miles.
July _20th_.—Course run W. by N. ¼ N. 68 miles.
July _21st_.—Course run W. 67 miles.
July _22d_.—Course run N. W. ½ N. 47 miles. As an indication of our drawing near to some land, we this morning picked up a broken tree, about eighteen feet long, of the yellow pine species. Although we could not have been less than three hundred miles from the nearest land, it certainly had not been long in the water. After night-fall, we were gratified with a most brilliant display of the _Aurora Borealis_.
July _23d_.—Course run, N. N. W. ¾ W. 23 miles. Early in the morning we saw five _Greenland_ ships, returning to _England_ from the whale-fishery; and shortly afterwards we perceived two ships of war, in the N. W. quarter. At noon we spoke with His Majesty’s ships the _Victorious_ and _Horatio_. They had been to _Davis’ Straits_, for the purpose of protecting the whale-fishery; and the former vessel exhibited a melancholy proof of the ill effects likely to result from the extreme state of ignorance in which our best navigators are placed, relative to the exact situation of the Northern lands. The _Victorious_ had struck on a rock, in latitude 66°. 21′. N., longitude 53°. 47′. W.; entirely owing to the coast of _Greenland_ having been laid down _four degrees_ wrong in the _Admiralty Charts_. The consequences likely to result from the loss of a seventy-four-gun ship, in such a situation, may be easily imagined; allowing every man to have been safely conveyed on board the _Horatio_. The frigate must herself have been short of provisions at the moment; and in what possible way could the captain have provided for the subsistence of nearly six hundred people in addition to his own ship’s company, in a part of the world where he could not have formed the most distant hope of receiving a supply?—Fortunately, they were not destined to experience the horrors of so dreadful a situation; the _Victorious_ was got off the rock again, without much difficulty: yet that her danger had been imminent cannot be doubted, as she was obliged to get a topsail under her bottom; and at the time when we met with her, there were some apprehensions that she might not reach _England_ in safety; the leak being so bad, that the crew were compelled to labour incessantly at the pumps. The _Horatio_ of course remained with her until she reached a _British_ port.
After all that has been said respecting the erroneous state of even the _Admiralty Charts_ for the Northern Seas, yet I do not imagine that the smallest imputation of neglect can be charged to Government upon that account. It has never yet been thought an object of sufficient national importance, to warrant an expenditure of the public money towards defraying the great expense that must necessarily be incurred in surveying thoroughly those frozen coasts which border upon _Davis’_ and _Hudson’s Straits_. The _Greenland_ mariners are notorious for paying so little regard to the situation of the places they visit, that they are incapable of giving any correct information: and the officers of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships have a motive in concealing the knowledge which they actually possess: this I shall notice more fully hereafter.
July _24th_.—Course run, N. W. ½ W. 34 miles. This morning some slight indication appeared of a lasting fair wind. The fine mild weather that had prevailed for the last fortnight was far from affording satisfaction to the commanders of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships; as they prognosticated much more difficulty in getting through _Hudson’s Straits_, the natural consequence of so much calm weather. It would have pleased them better to have encountered a few gales of wind, even if they had proved foul; as it requires strong winds to carry the drift ice out of the _Straits_, which is very likely otherwise to choke the passage. Entering _Hudson’s Straits_, it is a necessary precaution to keep close in with the northern shore; as the currents out of _Hudson’s_ and _Davis’ Straits_ meet on the south side of the entrance, and carry the ice with great velocity to the southward, along the coast of _Labrador_. We had seen, lately, a number of the kind of birds called, by the sailors, _Boatswains_: they are so numerous to the southward of the Tropic of _Cancer_, that they are called _Tropic Birds_. I cannot say whether they are accustomed to seat themselves upon the water or not; because our visitors flew at a great height over the ship, and we could plainly hear their melancholy screams by night as well as by day. Some amongst them have long feathers, like spikes, projecting from their tails; whilst others in the same flock, and evidently of the same species, are without them: perhaps these remarkable feathers may serve as distinguishing marks between the sexes. At noon this day we were in latitude 58°. 35′. N. longitude 49°. 10′. W. In the afternoon, the _Moravian_ Missionary brig asked, and obtained permission, to part company: she then quitted us, and steered more away to the westward. During the stay of our ship at the _Orkneys_, I had visited the brig in question, and had there met with an old _German_ Missionary; from whom I learned, that the difficulty of first getting on terms of intimacy with the _Esquimaux_ was almost insurmountable. This Missionary had himself been one of the first who succeeded in so dangerous an object, which could only be accomplished by placing an entire confidence in this wild race of people: he therefore remained alone with them, conforming to their loathsome habits, and mildly endeavouring to gain an ascendancy over their minds. It was a considerable time before he dared to attack those established customs which, to him, appeared most exceptionable. Habit had sanctioned polygamy amongst them; although the nature of their climate, and the difficulty of procuring sustenance, had confined that privilege almost exclusively to their Chiefs. Passion was allowed to be pleaded successfully, in extenuation of murder. It was, therefore, with a trembling, but a resigned heart, that the Missionary first ventured to point out those practices as offences against the Great Spirit. “The Almighty,” said the good _Moravian_, “assisted my humble efforts, and my endeavours were crowned with success.” I shall also quote his own words as to the result:—“On the bleak and rocky coast of _Labrador_, a temple is now erected to the worship of God, in which the wild _Esquimaux_ raises his voice in songs of praise to the Most High. Thirty years of my life have been dedicated to this employment; and I am now on my return, to finish my days amongst the flock which has been so manifestly entrusted to my care.”
The Missionary shewed me a _Testament_, _Creed_, and _Lord’s Prayer_, in the _Esquimaux_ tongue: but it will be easily imagined that many deficiencies must have arisen in the first instance; consequently, whenever the _Esquimaux_ were at a loss for words to express any new idea, or the name of any article that they had not before seen, the Missionary supplied them with a corresponding _German_ expression; as the _German_ language, of all others, is most easily pronounced by an _Esquimaux_.
An _English_ frigate had been on a cruize in _Davis’ Straits_; and returning thence, along the coast of _Labrador_, she put into a little bay, for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water. The affrighted _Esquimaux_ flew to their beloved Missionary, and pointed out the strange vessel as the cause of their fear: they were, however, soon pacified, and returned quietly to their occupations. Nothing, then, could equal the astonishment of the officers, on landing; when, instead of a wild race of savages, prepared to oppose them, they found a small village, inhabited by an inoffensive people, peaceably employed in their daily duties; and the little children going quietly to school, with books under their arms. Their surprise, however, must have been greatly increased, when they were given to understand, that all this had been accomplished by one man, zealously actuated by a wish of serving his God, in the services he had rendered to these poor _Indians_[8].
July _25th_.—Course run, W. by N. 35 miles. Light variable winds from the southward. We were this morning visited by an officer from one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships; an intelligent man, who had _thirty_ times performed the same voyage. It was his opinion, that the sharp cold, which we had experienced on the 18th of this month, must have been occasioned by the vicinity of ice; and we should doubtless have met with it on that day, had we not fortunately tacked about in time to avoid it. Our latitude at noon, this day, was 58°. 46′. N., and longitude 50°. 16′. W. Towards nightfall, the wind freshened to a fine steady breeze from S. S. W.; and we could plainly discern a bright appearance in the sky, towards the North; this was believed by every person on board to be a certain indication of ice in that direction.
July _26th_.—Course run W. by N. 128 miles.—A fine fair breeze all this day; the ship going about seven miles an hour. In the forenoon, we took on board the chief-mate of the _Prince of Wales_, (one of the _Hudson’s-Bay_ ships,) to act as pilot, or rather to instruct us in the management of our ship, amongst the ice in the _Straits_. He immediately advised us to raise our anchors, lest the shocks of the heavier masses of ice should break the stocks: we also rove smaller braces to all the yards, that we might be able to manœuvre the ship with the greater facility. At noon, we were in latitude, by account, 50°. 11′. N., and longitude 54°. 20′. W. We now kept our course more to the northward, to prevent the possibility of our falling in with the ice to the southward; as there are always large quantities drifting out of _Hudson’s Straits_, along the coast of _Labrador_. Ships do well, therefore, to keep to the northward, until they reach the latitude of _Cape Resolution_; and when that is attained, they may haul in N. W. and keep close in to the North shore; thus making a semicircle round the ice: but they should be particularly cautious not to keep too much to the North, until they reach the longitude of 54° W. and are consequently quite clear of the coast of _Greenland_.
July _27th_.—Course run N. W. by W. 182 miles. As we were now getting well to the northward, the air began to feel quite frigid; and the wind drawing round to the East, we hauled up North. Latitude, at noon, was 60°. 54′. N. Longitude, 59°. 19′. Our distance from _Cape Resolution_ we computed to be about 171 miles. In the afternoon we saw the first _iceberg_, which was an immense mountain of solid ice, in the shape of an English barn[9].
Towards evening, we passed another _iceberg_. It had a complete chain of floating fragments on the lee-side of it, through which we butted our way. We continued to run in for the land, all night, with a fair wind, although it was a very thick fog, and there were numberless _icebergs_ in all directions; indeed, it appeared to me almost miraculous, how we escaped being dashed upon some of them.