Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the important fact that the remains
of unknown animals are buried together with the shells in the crag of Suffolk; but does not mention the nature of these remains. Since these pages have been at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex and Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me that the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the diluvial gravel, including the remains of the elephant, rhinoceros, stag, etc.)
(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the formation of recent limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the bottom of lakes in Scotland, have been read before the Geological Society by Mr. Lyell, and will appear in the volume of the Transactions now in the press. See Annals of Philosophy 1825 page 310.)
Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is continually going on at the present time, and has probably taken place at all times, the stone thus formed, independent of the organized bodies which it envelopes, will afford no criterion of its date, nor give any very certain clue to the revolutions which have subsequently acted upon it. But as MARINE shells are found in the cemented masses, at heights above the sea, to which no ordinary natural operations could have conveyed them, the elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some other agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their great quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same places, make it more probable that they lay originally in the situations where we now find them, than that they have been transported from any considerable distances, or elevated by any very turbulent operation. Captain de Freycinet, indeed, mentions that patellae, worn by attrition, and other recent shells, have been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the top of a wall of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought up by the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in the breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights too great, and their preservation is too perfect, to admit of this mode of conveyance; and to account for their existence in such situations, recourse must be had to more powerful means of transport.
(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such situations may often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on their inhabitants. At Madeira, where recent shells are found near the coast at a considerable height above the sea, the Gulls have been seen carrying up the living patellae, just taken from the rocks.)
The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent appearance, at considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts of New Holland, Timor, and several other islands of the south, was justly considered by M. Peron as demonstrating the former abode of the sea above the land; and very naturally suggested an inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to which this change of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar appearances at Pulo Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of Sumatra, Dr. Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island must at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating, that by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the transition must have been effected with little violence or disturbance to the marine productions at the surface,** he concludes, that the phenomena are in favour of a HEAVING UP OF THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable nature of this force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated, by the phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen hundred miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the clearest evidence, that after formidable shocks of earthquake, repeated with little interruption during the whole night of the 19th of November (and the shocks were continued afterwards, at intervals, for several months) IT APPEARED, on the morning of the 20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED ABOVE ITS FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known to exist there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation was about four feet. "When I went," the narrator adds, "to examine the coast, although it was high-water, I found the ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry, with beds of oysters, mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on which they grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had been raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner; several ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH SHELLS, extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the height of fifty feet above the sea." Such an accumulation of geological evidence, from different quarters and distinct classes of phenomena, concurs to demonstrate the existence of most powerful expansive forces within the earth, and to testify their agency in producing the actual condition of its surface, that the phenomena just now described are nothing more than what was to be expected from previous induction. These facts, however, not only place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show that, even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable to conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same character have been produced by the same cause, though we may not at present be enabled to trace its connexion with the existing appearances so distinctly; and though the facts, when they occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may have taken place at periods beyond the reach of historical record, or even beyond the possibility of human testimony.
(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to 183.)
(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 403, 404.)
(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are those of Mrs. Graham, in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has been published in the Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is supported and illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of this latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot of the Andes to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the greatest rise being at the distance of about two miles from the shore. The rise upon the coast was from two to four feet: at the distance of a mile, inland, it must have been from five to six, or seven feet, pages 40, 45.)
M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern breccia of New Holland to the large proportion of calcareous matter, principally in the form of comminuted shells, which is diffused through the siliceous sand of the shores in that country;* and as the temperature, especially of the summer, is very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by the percolating water, may possibly render its formation more abundant there, than in more temperate climates. But the true theory of these concretions, under any modification of temperature, is attended with considerable difficulty: and it is certain that the process is far from being confined to the warmer latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of a modern formation of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;** where a large surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the rocks of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen, resemble those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological Society, from the shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this concretion, not to the agency of the sea, nor to an excess of carbonic acid, but to the solution of carbonate of lime itself in water, and subsequent percolation through calcareous sand; the great hardness of the stone arising from the very sparing solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual formation of the deposit--Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present a great variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less complicated, and often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and which appear to be analogous to those of King George's Sound and Sweer's Island: And he mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in sand, in different parts of England (the sand above the fossil bones of Norfolk is given as an example) long cylinders or tubes, composed of sand agglutinated by carbonate of lime, or calcareous stalactites entangling sand, which, like the concretions of Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have been ranked improperly, with organic remains.
(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page 116.)
(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society of Cornwall volume 1 page 1 etc.)
(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance, etc. Quarterly Journal Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16 page 79 to 83.)
The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New Holland, is very nearly the same with that of the cement by which they are united, the difference consisting only in the greater proportion of sand which the fragments contain: and it would seem, that after the consolidation of the former, and while the deposition of similar calcareous matter was still in progress, the portions first consolidated must have been shattered by considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist, the unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and even the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the paste which surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by some process analogous to what takes place in the preparation of the compound of which the ordinary earthenware is manufactured; where, though the ingredients are divided by mechanical attrition only, a sort of chemical action produces, under certain circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.* And this explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the paste in which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from conglomerates of mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a difficulty in geology. What the degree may be, of subdivision required to dispose the particles to act thus upon each other, or of fluidity to admit of their action, remains still to be determined.
(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are combined for the use of the potter, by being first separately diffused in water to the consistence of thick cream, and when mixed in due proportion are reduced to a proper consistence by evaporation. During this process, if the evaporation be not rapid and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to act on each other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of the manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which, I believe, is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend Mr. Arthur Aikin. And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar change takes place in recently precipitated carbonate of copper; which, if left long moist, concretes into hard gritty grains, of a green colour, much more difficultly soluble in ammonia than the original precipitate.)
6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than three-fourths of that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded as unknown,* any theoretic inferences, from the slight geological information hitherto obtained respecting this great island, are very likely to be deceitful; but among the few facts already ascertained respecting the northern portion of it, there are some which appear to afford a glimpse of general structure.
Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of islands on the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel's, the English Company's, and Bromby's Islands, remarks, that he had "frequently observed a great similarity both in the ground plans, and the elevations of hills, and of islands, in the vicinity of each other, but did not recollect another instance of such a likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands."* The appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of so much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must probably have been very remarkable; and, combined with information derivable from the charts, and from the specimens for which we are indebted to Captain King and Mr. Brown, they would seem to point out the arrangement of the strata on the northern coasts of New Holland.
(*Footnote. The following are the proportions assigned by Captain de Freycinet to the principal divisions of the globe. Voyage aux Terres Australes page 107.
COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE. COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE. COLUMN 3: PROPORTION.
Asia : 2,200,000 : 17. America : 2,100,000 : 17. Africa : 1,560,000 : 12. Europe : 501,875 : 4. Australia : 384,375 : 3.
The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to which the late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has never yet been examined in any other quarter) are not above 500 miles, in a direct line from the sea; the average width of the island from east to west being more than 2000 miles, and from north to south more than 1000 miles.)
(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates 14 and 15. King's Charts, Plate 4.)
Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders' notice (see the Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that which includes the Red Cliffs, Mallison's Island, a part of the coast of Arnhem's Land, from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce, and Bromby's Isles; and its length, from the mainland (3) on the south-west of Mallison's Island, to Bromby's Isles (7) is more than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from south-west to north-east. The English Company's Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the general trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233) is nearly North-East by East, parallel with the line of the main coast, and with Bromby's Islands. Wessel's Islands (1, 1, 1, 1) the third or most northern chain, at fourteen miles from the second range, stretch out to more than eighty miles from the mainland, likewise in the same direction.
It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the English Company's Islands which were examined, slope down nearly to the water on their west sides; but on the east, and more especially the south-east, they present steep cliffs; and the same conformation, he adds, seemed to prevail in the other islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or two instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it obtains in so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of the ranges, it is not improbably of still more extensive occurrence, and would intimate a general elevation of the strata towards the south-east.
(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.)
Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the lines of the coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, between Limmen's Bight and Cape Arnhem--from the bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point Dale--less distinctly from Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 129 degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20 minutes, longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry, have nearly the same direction; the first line being about one hundred and eighty geographical miles, the second more than three hundred, and the last more than four hundred miles, in length.* And these lines, though broken by numerous irregularities, especially on the north-west coast, are yet sufficiently distinct to indicate a probable connexion with the geological structure of the country; since the coincidence of similar ranges of coast with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very frequent occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the different places in this quarter of New Holland which have been hitherto examined; sandstone, like that of the older formations of Europe occurring generally on the north and north-west coasts, and appearing to be extensively diffused on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, where it reposes upon primitive rocks.***
(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast of Timor, the nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of about 300 miles, is also nearly straight, and parallel to the Coast of New Holland in this quarter: part of the mountainous range, of which that island consists, being probably more than 9000 feet high; and its length, from the north-eastern extremity to the South-West of the adjoining island of Rottee, about 300 miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain of islands immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a right line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO WEST. This chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including those of Sumbawa, the eruption of which, in 1815, was of extraordinary violence. See Royal Inst. Journal volume 1 1816 page 248 etc.
At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the north-west coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West: their direction consequently is from South-West to North-East; and the rise towards the high land of Timor. The intervening sea is very shallow.)
(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which has not, I believe, been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean; and is conspicuous in the new chart of that sea, by Captain W.H. Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica and Sardinia, for a space of more than two hundred geographical miles being nearly rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and, Captain Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or, at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges in the interior of England furnish several examples of the same kind, on a smaller scale.)
(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to those above-mentioned--from the South-East of the Gulf of Carpentaria to Limmen's Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker, and from Cape Domett to Cape Londonderry--have also a certain degree of linearity; but much less remarkable, than those which run from South-West to North-East.)
The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of Australia, and may possibly have some connexion with the structure just pointed out. The western shore of this horn, from the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour Straits, being very low; while the land on the east coast rises in proceeding towards the south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude 12 degrees 30 minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain King's specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in so many places along this line as to make it probable that primitive rocks may form the general basis of the country in that quarter; since a lofty chain of mountains is continued on the south of Cape Tribulation, not far from the shore, throughout a space of more than five hundred miles. It would carry this hypothesis too far to infer that these primitive ranges are connected with the mountains on the west of the English settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port Stevens, about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37 degrees, and as succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue Mountains, by sandstone, and this again by primitive strata:* But it may be noticed that Wilson's Promontory, the most southern point of New South Wales, and the principal islands in Bass Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur extensively in Van Diemen's Land.
(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June 1824.)
The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some other quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that of the principal openings, has a general tendency to a course from the west of south to the east of north. This, for example, is the general range of the south-east coast, from Cape Howe, about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees; and of the western coast, from the south of the islands which enclose Shark's Bay, latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22 degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to Cape Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs nearly on the meridian. The two great fissures of the south coast, Spencer's, and St. Vincent's Gulfs, as well as the great northern chasm of the Gulf of Carpentaria, have a corresponding direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart 4) represents a high ridge of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of Spencer's Gulf, as continued, nearly from north to south, through a space of more than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees 7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this ridge, about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the distance of twenty leagues.
The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a general parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of the existence of primary ranges of mountains on the east of Australia in general, from the coast about Cape Weymouth* to the shore between Spencer's Gulf and Cape Howe. But it must not be forgotten, that the distance between these shores is more than a thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as from the west coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance between the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will be supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by Mr. Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to explain it) to be established by geological observation in so many other parts of the world, that the outcrop of the inclined beds, throughout the stratified portion of the globe, is everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of mountains, towards which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed. But in the present state of our information respecting Australia, all such general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that the desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the best excuse that can be offered for having proposed them.
(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great Australian Bight, the coast of which in general is of no great elevation, with the deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending, as it were, to a division of this great island into two, accords with this hypothesis of mountain ranges: but the distance between these recesses, over the land at the nearest points, is not less than a thousand English miles. The granite, on the south coast, at Investigator's Islands, and westward, at Middle Island, Cape Le Grand, King George's Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very wide of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its relations.)
(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes. Philosophical Transactions 1760