CHAPTER XIX.
Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
I had visits yesterday from all the Fezzanee traders. These people, as at Zinder, and everywhere at Soudan, sell their goods at a high price to the Sultan, and then are obliged to wait six or seven months for their money, eating up all their profits. No wonder the poor fellows rarely get rich, but remain, on the contrary, always miserably poor. The same is the case throughout all Soudan. To-day my tent was thronged with visitors, before whom I am obliged to exhibit myself, or show my curiosities. Among others, I had a visit from some people who came from Gobter, distant four hours south, on purpose to see me; and, moreover, had a call from some ladies nearly related to the Sultan. They all wanted medicine, but for what they could not tell; so I gave them each a taste of Epsom. This made them relish a bit of sugar, which I distribute to them afterwards, and which appeased their grimaces and disgust. I am pestered to death for medicines, and have visitors without number.
The Sultan sent word this morning to know if I had anything to sell, any fine things from the Christian countries, for he wished to buy them. Our people returned for answer that I was not a merchant, but belonged to the Queen. He then begged me to give him a small quantity of my medicines, for he had heard I had most wonderful drugs;--would I favour him with some of every kind, that he might be prepared for all possible complaints which might attack him hereafter, when I was gone? For the present he is suffering from pains in all his joints; and requests, in the first place, to be relieved from them. Compliance with these demands was, of course, necessary. I therefore packed up small quantities of emetics, acetate of lead, worm-powders, and Epsom, and also a little camphor, and a little sticking-plaster, with a small bottle of Eau de Cologne. With these I went to pay my respects. We found the Sultan in a small private apartment. He was in an inquisitive mood, and began by asking me all manner of questions, the subjects ranging from the affairs of kings and princes down to the handkerchief round my neck. I should observe that the Sultan requested Yusuf to taste the medicines before he delivered them up to him, to see that there was no blood in them. So he tasted the salts and the jalap; but I told him that the acetate of lead was poison, and we wrote _sem_ upon all the packets. It surprised him that we should administer poison to the eyes.
After the interview his servants showed me his horses. They were but ill-formed animals, some heavily built, and others miserable-looking creatures. Yet these are the pick of the whole country, and some have been lately brought from Sakkatou, as the best which could be exported from that quarter.
In the afternoon another slave of Haj Beshir arrived from Zinder, seeking for me. He had brought a letter, but had orders if he did not find me to return it to Kuka; so that I shall be without news until my arrival. He, however, just knows that a caravan came from Mourzuk in thirty-nine days, bringing this letter, which was forwarded to me. It comes direct from Tripoli. There are three letters for me!
This evening my new interpreter came with a long trumped-up story, as to what the Sultan had said respecting my quarrel with Yusuf. His highness was represented to have expressed a strong desire that we might be reconciled before we arrived at Kuka. I cannot tell whether this be true or false. Probably they have attempted to get the Sultan to speak to me about Yusuf. This is always the case. These people do you as much injury as they please on the road, and when they are near a place which makes them afraid, they get a number of people to come and persuade you to say that they are very good fellows. It is quite clear that Yusuf has stolen several things on the road. The last thing missed is a large quantity of cloves. It is difficult to know how to act on these occasions.
_17th._--I took Epsom, and feel better.
The architectural ornaments of the palace of Gurai resemble those of the houses of Ghat. The walls are covered with little recesses, of various shapes; the moulding consists of a series of lozenges; the pillars by which the ceiling is supported are of immense thickness. In these large halls, on a level with the ground, there are always raised seats of earth, on which are spread carpets, and lion and leopard skins.
By the way, this country seems clear of animals. They are all either hunted down, or driven into thicker shades and forests.
All these provinces have their histories preserved traditionally. The father of the present Sultan of Gurai, named Ibrahim, was a most determined fellow. He slew no less than seven sultans appointed to take his place. The Sheikh, in the first instance, sent a large army to dispossess him. Before superior forces he retired to a mountain, where he was unattackable. The new Sultan was installed, and the troops of Bornou returned to Kuka. As soon as they were gone, Ibrahim descended the mountains with his slaves, and fell upon the new prince, butchering him and his people. Then he wrote to Kuka: "I am under God and you." The Sheikh, enraged at this conduct, sent another force against him, as before. Ibrahim once more retired to his stronghold, and after the Bornou forces had returned to Kuka, again descended from his mountain, and butchered the new prince as before. And this he repeated seven times, so that at last the Sheikh, seeing the impossibility of continuing the war with such a vassal, allowed him to have quiet possession of the province of Minyo. His son Goso, now sultan, is also a very spirited fellow; but he is on good terms with the Sheikh, and observed to me, "What Kuka (the Sheikh) does, I do; as what Stamboul does, so does Tripoli." Goso, or Gausau, is certainly a very polite prince, and a very accomplished man. To him the Sultan of Zinder is a mere slave.
There is some news about the Sultan of Zinder. It appears that Sarkee Ibrahim feels himself weak, and unable to conduct the government of the province prosperously, i.e. "to go on razzia;" so he wrote for his brother to come and undertake the command of the slave-hunts. The brother spoke to the Sheikh, who said "Go." But the brother said, "No, I will not go, unless you will give me the province to govern." The Sheikh replied, "Your brother will give you some town." "No," was the answer; "I will not go unless you will give me the whole province." This is now the great news in Zinder and Gurai, and was carried to the former place by two horsemen, who galloped from Kuka to Zinder in six days.
I now write the names of the sultans of the province in Arabic, before them, with a black-lead pencil. This greatly astonishes them: first, that I am able to write their names and that of the countries which they govern; and secondly, with a black-lead pencil, which they call wood.
_Names of several sorts of Fish (Buni) in Bornou._
Yogari, a large flat fish, four or five feet long, and as many broad.
Kagwi, a fish like a cod or ling.
Haik, one foot and a half long, three or four inches broad.
Kamudee, one foot and a half long, thick as the lower arm, and quite black.
Karwa and Kagia, species of small plaice.
Labun, of the size of a locust.
Kadikadi, large thick eel.
The Sultan is very anxious about my personal history, and hearing that I had my wife in Tripoli, inquired if I intended to take another in this country.
I have had numberless visits all day long. The people display an intense curiosity to see the Christian, and would stop here for ever, gazing before my tent. Four sisters of the Sultan gave me a call. I taught them the use of pins, and pinned three of them together, which produced great merriment amongst the people. A Fellatah horse-dealer gave me two routes to-day; one from this (Gurai) to Sakkatou, and another from Sakkatou towards the west.[22]
[22] See Appendix.
A quarrel has sprung up between the Kashalla and Said, Haj Beshir's slave, about the road we should take from this to Kuka. The north-eastern, or direct east, is the shortest, but there are three days without habitations: this is Said's road. The south-eastern is the longer route, and is the Kashalla's, but there are people every day. The latter is probably the better route for me. It is decided that we leave the day after to-morrow.
This evening the Sultan sent me a camel, as a present. Not having experienced the difficulty of riding a horse, I had sold all my camels. The gift camel is a very good one.
When the moon rises, about an hour after dark, the beating of the drums is heard, calling the people to assemble for the dancing--young men and maidens. In ten minutes, some hundred people are collected. The dancing then commences in full and grand style. This evening I went out to see the performance, and found it the most animating I had yet seen in Africa. The young men and maidens separated into parties, the maidens near the drummers, and the young men at a distance of some twenty paces around them. A circle is then formed. The ladies here choose their own partners, instead of waiting to be chosen. A maiden skips up awkwardly to the drummer, then glides off to the side of the young men, and touches the gentleman with whom she wishes to dance, and returns. The young man does not immediately accept, for two or three minutes elapse after he has been touched ere he starts off to join the lady who has honoured him in the presence of a hundred admiring or jealous spectators. They join, turning first face to face, then back to back, then face to the drummers, in the most lively style. The young men are dressed in their tobes, and throw them up and round so as to produce a moving circle, as women might do with their petticoats; but not moving their bodies so much as their circling tobes: this is the grand grace of the dance. Then there are parties of men and women dancing together; but the men with men, and women with women. The women trip up awkwardly, but modestly, to where the men are placed, and then fall back; upon which the men pursue them violently, overtaking them before they get to their places, and throwing their tobes around them: but there is nothing indelicate in all this. On the contrary, the whole dance is quite a pattern of modesty to the Europeans, the Arabs, and the Moors,--to these latter especially, whose dance, as introduced here, is of the most lascivious and beastly description. This entertainment takes place every night; it is the great solace and delight of the people: they have no other amusement. They are all passionately fond of the drum, which certainly makes a great noise, and stirs them up to exhibit their dancing powers.
The whole population have suddenly become sick, and all want Epsom salts: a camel-load would not suffice. One old fellow wants a medicine to enable him to get children. I tell him he is now old, and must be satisfied with the strength God has given him in his past life.
The Sultan has made presents to our people,--to the Kashalla, Yusuf, and others.
_18th._--I was so beset with people that I could not use my thermometer this morning. The weather is fresh, with the wind from the north-east. I am obliged to give tea as medicine: everybody now pretends to be sick, from the Sultan to the meanest slave.
In all these villages the people burn up the stubble in the evening, just outside the village, on the dung-heaps. They like to see the flame which whirls up from the dirty hay or straw; but, of course, they make their fire at some distance, to prevent its catching their huts. The mortar and pestle have disappeared: the people use here, for grinding their grain, two stones, as in some places on the north coast.
The insects are beginning their depredations upon me, biting me all over, and raising on my flesh small ulcers.
I have obtained from Nammadina, the Fellatah horse-dealer, a detailed account of the route to Yola, the capital of Adamaua, passing through Boushi.
The Moors represent the latter place to be like Mourzuk and Tripoli; but they say the greater part of the inhabitants of Adamaua are infidels or pagans. The rulers are, however, Fellatahs, and therefore Muslims. Adamaua is a rocky country: a small quantity of grain is found here, with abundance of sheep, oxen, horses, goats, fish, samen, honey, and onions. The rivers of Adamaua have always some water in them.
In the territory of Boushi will be found the celebrated name of Yamyam, where the Moorish and Arab merchants place the residence of the Ben-Adam eaters, or cannibals. I was greatly amused to hear my Fellatah informant most strenuously deny this calumny on the African race; he asserted that he had been in the country, and never had seen anything of this sort. The Moors as boldly affirmed that such cannibals exist, although they were obliged to confess they never saw the people of Adamaua or Yakoba (name of the sultan) eat human flesh. The whole story of the Yamyam is of the remotest antiquity, and has come down to us with many embellishments; but, if once true of the people hereabouts, it can no longer be authenticated by present facts, for as I have said, the Moors themselves represent Boushi to be like Tripoli.
The people from Fezzan and Tripoli, the traders and all, complain of the liver complaint; most of them have been ten or fifteen years in this country, travelling through Bornou and Soudan. I gave them small doses of calomel. All people at this season, blacks and strangers from the north, are full of rheumatism, which they describe by saying they have pains in all their joints and all their limbs. The presence of a Christian having medicines heightens and multiplies these diseases; there is, however, in reality, a good deal of rheumatism, arising from the cold winds of the north-east.
This evening we had again our drummers and the dancers, as on every preceding night. The girls have a laughable game amongst themselves, the boys, however, sometimes joining--that of throwing one another up and forwards by the arm-pits; the girl thus thrown forwards is expected, if she play her part well, to light firmly on her feet. If not, she rolls about and over, and the accidents that then occur are probably considered a great part of the amusement.
_19th._--We were hurried off this morning early by the Kashalla, and I had no time to go and take leave of the Sultan. The weather is fresh. I mounted my gift camel; the second grand gift from the princes of Africa. We made a long day, from morning till after dark, about ten hours, through an undulating country. Some of the hollows were very deep, and enclosed stagnant reedy pools, of generally bad water, remaining from the past rains. For the first three or four hours of this march we had a scattered forest of dwarfish trees, mostly dwarf tholukhs. These are succeeded by small forests of the doom-palms, lining the pools and swamps in the valleys, and looking very fresh and pretty. I was astonished to see so few animals; indeed, we only observed now and then a small bird. What was the more strange, no water-fowl was seen in the pools.
But the country to-day was all desert--no grain cultivating, which perhaps may account for the absence of birds and fowls. Said prevailed over the Kashalla, and we have taken the desert route, being five days nearer. There are, besides, but few trees, comparatively, which makes it easier to transport the boat.
The Kashalla vexed me very much by taking my camel to transport a portion of baggage, his own camel knocking up. At first I refused to go on, but on the promise that he would get a bullock at the nearest place I mounted upon the luggage. Fortunately, my gift camel is a good one, not like the horse, and can carry a large weight. I cannot grumble much, as the Sheikh's camels are transporting many of my private things. Nevertheless you must show a stern resistance to all these liberties, otherwise you will never be able to get through Africa.
No tent was pitched, but I made myself comfortable by drinking the remainder of a bottle of port wine, which I began yesterday. I felt a little queer, and fancied I had injured myself by drinking so much milk; so I took to a bottle of port wine, and finished it in three times. I have felt much better since. I could very well drink a bottle a-day, and believe I should be much stronger for it. However, such wine should be kept for convalescence after fever. I have still a bottle, and some Cyprus wine--very good wine.
_20th._--We started as soon as the day broke and the sun showed himself, and made five hours south-east over country the same as yesterday. But the forests of doom-palms were larger and thicker, and valleys also were more extensive. What is strange, no wild animals show themselves, not even in these sedgy, reedy swamps. I could only see scattered on the ground the feathers of the guinea-fowl. One or two black-and-white crows were noticed. Our people say that all the crows are of this colour in Bornou. In Ashen there are both species, the black, and the black-and-white. Our people also tell us, that on the other route, which the Kashalla wished to travel, there are numbers of elephants, and much water. Here is water enough in the rainy season for all such animals. We had still the tholukh, as well as the doom, and a tree like a large sea-shore plant cropped by the camels.
We saw no ghaseb cultivation, or any sort of grain, till we arrived at Gusumana, where we found wheat, cotton, and pepper in the gardens. The village of Gusumana is situated on a hill, overlooking a steep broad valley, full of the doom-palm. This village has therefore its houses constructed partly with the branches and trunks of this tree, which serve very well. I am housed in a most comfortable little hut made of this material, and nicely thatched; the door is composed of some thin strips of the leaves of the palm, which, as you enter, give way, and then return to their place, just as would a curtain. In this way the air always plays freely into the hut, murmuring sometimes between these fragments of leaves.
I have felt much less fatigue since I mounted the camel, although I have made the longest day upon it that has been made since we left Zinder. I recommend to all travellers the camel in the desert, or in Soudan. I believe the ill-health of the former expedition was much increased by always riding horses. Thank God, my strength still keeps up.
Taking Gusumana as a centre, we have around it several towns and villages. Thisi, one hour west; Gajemmi, one long day north-west; Parum, one hour east-south-east; Kadellebua, two hours south-west; Garua, one hour east; Gogora, two hours east; and, finally, in our road, Kanggarua, two days south-east. The town of Gajemmi is inhabited by the tribe of Duggera; but the Kaid of this village pretends they are not Tuaricks. He means, probably, not the same as the Tuaricks of Ashen. It is quite clear that these Daggera inhabit all the northern line of Bornou, from Zinder to Kuka; skirting, in fact, all the left of our route. They join the Damerghou territory, and thus extend from that province west to Kanem, and the route of Bornou east. The Tuaricks are ever located on the confines of the desert. Here they roam free, and rob and plunder where they have opportunity, or when the princes of Bornou and Soudan cannot check them.
Our people gnaw the doom fruit, but it is just like gnawing the bark of a tree, slightly flavoured with some aroma. They begin to eat them from childhood, and so keep on, as the gour-nuts are chewed by children; and so the taste is sucked in with their mother's milk. The gour-nut, however, is something, whilst the doom fruit is mere wood. The tree, nevertheless, is green, and in waving forests delightfully relieves this hot, burning, African landscape.
The portion of the caravan consisting of bullocks is always much later than the rest; to-day they were four hours after us. I consider that the hours we now go are at least two and a-half or three English miles in length, as we advance at a speed quite equal to a horse walking at a good pace; nay, I might say, some hours we make three and a-half English miles.
The following are the names of the brothers of the Sultan of Sakkatou, obtained from my Fellatah informant of Gurai. A difference of pronunciation will be observed in the Arab names, as they are transmitted through the Fellatah language. Aliu (for Ali), name of the Sultan himself and one of his brothers; Mallaidi; Amadu (Ahmed), Omeru (Omer, two of this name), Mahammedu (Mahammed), Mogari; Amadu Bedai; Alhattu; Moho; Isa (two of this name); Amadu el-Fai; Musa; Abd-el-Kaderi, and Abd-el-Walli. These are the names of all the brothers which he has heard. The first minister is called Galladima. The Kadi is El-Hali el-Haj; Inna is the generalissimo; Mohammed Wuddeggen, Muddebri Ali, Bu Beker, Manuri, and Gudundi, are names of other grandees and generals. The horse-dealer speaks of them with great familiarity, for he sells to them all. His own country is called Kabi, situated to the south-west of Sakkatou. He gave me the particulars of the route.[23]
[23] See Appendix.
_21st._--This morning the weather was cool, the thermometer standing at 56 deg., with a fresh wind. We had a visit early from the Kadi. I asked him why he did not plant date-trees in the fine valley under the village. He replied, "From whence shall I procure them?" I answered, "From Tungari (a place west, three days distant)." At this he looked very stupid. These Minyo negroes have no idea of improving their condition. His reply may serve for all the country hereabouts.
Minyo and its large province is called by its aboriginal names Manga. It extends south-east to a river, on the other side of which begins Bornou Proper. But the people of Manga speak the same language as the Bornouese. Zinder belongs to the circle of Soudan, and its province is called Damagram.
Mohammed, my interpreter, pretends he saw elephants to-day at a considerable distance, looking like black trees. Probably to-morrow we may fall in with some animals worth seeing. I observed two or three swallows, the first this year. We stop here to-day to rest. The animals are knocked up, and the Kashalla has lost a horse.
It is from this Manga province that many of the villages of Damerghou are populated. Formerly the Tuaricks of that province made razzias on these out-lying provinces, with the produce of which they increased the number of their subjects.
An European must needs show off in this country. Yesterday I was obliged to exhibit to all the village,--about a hundred people,--and to-day to as many more. It is very fortunate if you are not detestably ugly, and can pass muster; for if you are, you will have all sorts of faces made at you; and, besides, you will be considered to represent a whole people as an ugly race. I walked round the village. There may be two hundred huts, and about six hundred inhabitants. The sun burns at four P.M. most fiercely. I begin to be afraid of it; but the days are uncertain, and sometimes the weather is quite chilly.
According to my interpreter, Mohammed Ben Ahmed Bu Saad, there is no money in Bornou, and the Sheikh could never obtain a strong army. We certainly find considerable difficulty all along to get an extra camel or bullock, and those to be obtained are very bad ones. The people cultivate very little, and have no resources to fall back on. They have just a little grain for themselves. The Sheikh of this place is a respectable man, and has been very civil to me. He, however, requires from me a medicine to procure him a good reception wherever he goes. He says he is frequently called to Minyo and other large places, and he wants a medicine to procure him the smiles, good-will, and friendship of all the people whom he meets. Especially he wishes always to have the favour of the Sultan. I had numbers of other patients all day; my Epsom is fast going. Thermometer at sunset, 82 deg.; weather very troublesome to-day, blowing hot and cold with the same breath.[24]
[24] Here ends Mr. Richardson's journal, with words which already hint the cause of the lamentable accident that speedily followed. Spring was advancing with its uncertain temperature in Central Africa. The thermometer varied nearly thirty degrees between the morning and afternoon. Doubtless, however, the unusual fatigue of horse-exercise during the days that succeeded the departure from Zinder may have contributed its share in breaking down Mr. Richardson's strength. Something of a desponding tone may be observed in the journal for many pages; but we do not find that there was any cessation of industry. In addition to what is found in the regular diary, a good many notes were left written in pencil. Among the principal of them are the following:--
"In Kanem, north of Bornou, it rains a month earlier in the season than in that province; in Bornou, one month earlier than in Kanou; in Kanou, one month earlier than at Niffee. The heat of to-day, under a thatch hut, at one P.M., same as yesterday, 96 deg.. Sugar dissolved into a wash is a common remedy in Soudan and Bornou for bad eyes; but, perhaps, it is made an excuse for getting sugar from us."
"In the evening we marched two hours and a-half in an E.S.E. direction. We were met by the Sheikh of the place, with some fifteen horse, and a mounted drummer. No wild animals are seen, on account of the fires in the desert (made, however, by the people on purpose to catch them). No water-fowls swim in the pools, probably because there is no cultivation. But this is the real country of the elephants. I saw the dung some two days before, and could not make out what it was. These days the dung was more abundant, and the people told me what it was. The people about here do not hurt them, their spears being useless against the hide of this great quadruped; the hunters, however, entangle the smaller animals--gazelles, &c.--by means of a great wheel made of cane. The animals put their feet in the middle, which gives in, and holds them, whilst the top is secured by strong cords."
"Mandemnia.
"Kangarwar, half the size of Zinder. First day, evening march, seven hours, pitched in open country; course, S.E. Second day, pitched in open country; course, E. Third day, six hours, E.N.E. Fourth day, half-an-hour's morning march. Mandemnia village people occupied in making salt."
I believe Mr. Richardson was sometimes in the habit of jotting down observations in this way on loose pieces of paper previous to inserting them in his journal, which he evidently wrote in great part with a view to its being sent to the press, though at others he breaks away into a series of disconnected memoranda. We have no further account of what happened between the 21st of February and the 4th of March, than what is contained in the letter written by Dr. Barth, Mr. Richardson's fellow-traveller, so often mentioned in the foregoing pages (see Preface).--ED.
APPENDIX.
LIST OF ROUTES, &c.
_Route from Zinder to Kanou._
From Zinder, starting S.S.E., Kankandi, one hour.
Baban Tabki, a quarter of an hour.
Dunai, four hours: large place, or village.
Guna, one hour: large place.
Karaiai, four hours: large village.
Washa, seven hours: town and residence of a sultan.
Kakibarai, three hours. This place consists of three villages; one upon the rocky hills, one on the slope, and one under the rocks. At Washa there are also rocks; the rest of the route is flat. From Washa to Kakibarai there is a most copious supply of water.
Gordo, ten hours: large village.
Eshkakato, two hours: large village.
Tumbi, two hours: town and residence of a sultan. Omitting one place, the name of which was not remembered, then follows:
Maidabara, one hour.
Gumel, two hours: town and residence of a sultan.
Tukkenzuru, one hour.
Bermanaua, one hour: large village.
Elladi, one hour. Here terminates the territory of Bornou.
Garki, two hours: a very populous place, and said to be the residence of seven sultans (or governors). Here begins the territory of the Fellatahs.
Dago, three hours.
Kuka Maifurra, two hours.
Kuka Mairua, one hour and a half.
Gubbasaua, two hours.
Souk (name not remembered), two hours.
Gaizaua, two hours: a large place.
Sharo, one hour. Here are three running streams, each separated by about a quarter of an hour's ride.
Zango, a quarter of an hour. From Sharo to Kanou there are no less than thirty small villages.
Kanou, a quarter of an hour. The whole of the route, with the exception of the rocks of Washa and Kakibarai, is flat, and trees are scattered along all the road. From Gumel to Dogo there is a forest, and from Kakibarai to Gordo the country is covered with the doom-palm. In all the towns and villages above enumerated is found a good supply of water. The portion of Bornouese territory is sandy, and that of the Fellatah's good earthy soil.
* * * * *
_Routes from Zinder to Kuka: first route, via Minyo._
From Zinder to
Zarmu, half a day; village. (The half day is from four to five hours.)
Ginnewa, half a day; village.
Majia, seven hours; village.
Minyo, half a day; town and residence of a sultan of considerable power and influence.
Alkammaram, seven hours; well.
Kadalafua, seven hours; large village.
Birribirchi, seven hours; well.
Kagarwa, half a day; large village.
Karragu-fillai, three hours.
Gurrutua, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
Zangairi, name of a river and a village, three hours. Here is a large river, which, however, is dry in summer. Most of these rivers are dry during the two or three hot months.
Miggeba, four hours; a village.
Zaggatur, half a day; a village.
Bua, four hours; a village.
Bagusu, half a day; a village.
Kuka, four hours; town.
This route is usually reckoned at fifteen days' journey: trees are abundant on all the route, especially the doom-palm. There are, besides, many streams of water, on the banks of which are seen animals of every description.
* * * * *
_Second Route, via Mashena._
Miria, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a small lake, where palateable fish are caught. Abundance of corn is also found here.
Gushi, eight hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
Gijemu, three hours; village.
Zubaggeru, eight hours; large village.
Funokam, three hours; village.
Mashena, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
Karimairi, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
Zorikulo, eight hours; village.
Kafi, three hours; village.
Ganaua, half a day; village.
Wadi, half a day; village.
Gurrutua, eight hours; village.
Miggeba, half a day; village. A river, in which water is found three feet deep during the summer.
Fataganna, three hours; village.
Dumrua, half a day; village.
Shilaua, half a day; a village.
Basher, half a day; a village.
Kuka, three hours.
This route abounds with trees, water, fruit, corn, and many animals.
* * * * *
_Route from Gumel to Kuka._
From Gumel to
Shafoa, half a day; large village.
Taganama, half a day; large town, and residence of a sultan.
Mashena, six hours; town, residence of a sultan.
Gumsi, seven hours; large village.
Zirku-Kura, ten hours; running water and wells.
Enki-Kura (i.e. large water), twelve hours; a large lake, stagnant, having no communication with other water.
Lauwanri, ten hours; large village.
Diru, ten hours; large village.
Chilumwa, ten hours; large village.
Burburwa, twelve hours; a large walled town, and what is called _Biad-es-souk_, i.e. where a market is held.
Daboko, twelve hours; small village, near a large river.
Limbua, ten hours: this place consists of fifty or sixty little villages.
Binaua, eight hours, comprising many small villages.
Kamis-Ali, five hours, or place where a market is held.
Basher, eight hours; village.
Kuka, four hours.[25]
[25] In the former route, Basher is given as only three hours from Kuka. In the next route, Bagusu is made eight hours from Kuka, whilst a little back we have it set down at only half that distance. These discrepancies, of course, set geographers on their guard against placing any absolute dependence on native reports. I remember once questioning the inhabitants of a village in Egypt about the distance of a particular place. One said, five or six hours; others said, a short day; and others, a long day. However, by comparison of various statements, perhaps something like the truth may be reached.--ED.
* * * * *
_Route from Kanou to Kuka._
From Kanou to
Gaizaua, six hours; a large place.
Kuka-Mairua, eight hours.
Gerki, nine hours.
Gumel, half a day; town, residence of a sultan.
Ungua-Kalu, eight hours: this place includes two villages.
Gullairi, ten hours; large village, or town without walls.
Mashena, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
Karremeri, four hours; a town, three times as large as Zinder.
Zolikulo, eleven hours; village.
Kafi, eight hours; village.
Ganaua, nine hours; village.
Dellella, half a day; village.
Kashimwa, ten hours; large place, and a river.
Miggeba, eight hours; village.
Kassachia, five hours; villages: large river, dry in summer.
Ura, eight hours; village.
Kinchakusko, ten hours; village.
Bagusu, ten hours.
Kuka, eight hours.
* * * * *
_Route from Kuka to Mourzuk._
From Kuka, north, to
Urutua, half a day; small village.
Karillewa, half a day; a well.
Yau, half a day; walled town, large river.
Burwa, twelve hours; walled town.
Wuddi, twelve hours; stream, running into the Tchad (great lake).
Gaigomai, four hours; small villages and rivers.
Bir-Hamam, twelve hours; well.
Kufai, nine hours; one tree; resting-place, formerly a well.
Kibbu, fifteen hours; a well.
Bel-Kashefferri, three days, and arrive the fourth day after six hours.
Agdem, one day and a-half; well, large rocks and sandhills.
Dubbula, two days; well, large rocks and sandhills.
Zau, one day and a-half; well, large sandhills.
Musguatin, seven hours; well, rocks.
Bilma, four hours; large walled town.
Shummenduro, eleven hours; town upon the rocks.
Dirku, two hours; walled town, and residence of the Sultan of the Tibboos (capital).
Ashennema, half a day; village and rocks.
Amchumma, ten hours; village and rocks.
Anai, two hours; village and rocks.
Yuguba, twelve hours; a well.
Sigdem, twelve hours; well and rocks.
Maffarus, one day and a half; well.
Lahmer, one day and a half; well and rocks.
War, three days; well, and mountains of great height and magnitude.
Meshru, two days; well and rocks.
Oma, twelve hours. Here the traveller at length sees a forest of date-palms; and the first district of Fezzan begins.
Tajerrhi, eleven hours; walled town.
Kazraua, twelve hours; village.
Mudrusai, half a day; village.
Gatron, two hours; village.
Hafari, twelve hours; well and date-palms.
Mustutai, fifteen hours; well and date-palms.
Bithan, twelve hours; village.
Sidi Beshir, half a day; village.
Mourzuk, three hours.
_Obs._--All the Tibboo districts, like those of Fezzan, have forests of date-palms. Between Maffarus and Oma there is no herbage during seven days. The greatest quantity of sand in this route is found between Agdem and Zau.
* * * * *
_Route from Kuka, to Mandara._
From Kuka, south, to
Manguno, nine hours; a large town.
Dikua, half a day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
Gasa, ten hours; a village.
Quondega, seven hours; a large village.
Gamergu, five hours; a large village.
Karaua, twelve hours; first country of Mandara, of great height.
Izgai, four hours; village and rocks.
Dulo, four hours; villages and rocks.
Mora, three hours; a walled city, and capital of Mandara, a small city, containing not more than ten thousand souls. The Sultan has five hundred cavalry and one thousand eunuchs. These poor devils are made here. The Kerdies or pagans upon the neighbouring mountains are called Matacum. These mountains are said to be of considerable altitude.
According to Omer Wardi there is no difficulty in going to Muzgu, south of Mandara, and seat of the nearest pagans.
* * * * *
_Route to Mandara from Kuka: Second Route, Eastern._
TERRITORY OF BORNOU.
From Kuka, south-east, to
Gornu, half a-day; a walled town, larger than Zinder.
Gulum, three hours; small village. Here is a river.
Yaidi, four hours; large walled town.
Martai, four hours; large walled town.
Ala, three hours; large walled town.
Diwa, eight hours; large walled town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a river.
Abagai, two hours; small village.
Kuddaigai, one hour; small village.
Sokoma, one hour; a large walled town.
Millehai, two hours; a small place.
Magarta, three hours; a large walled town.
Dellehai, half a day; a large place.
TERRITORY OF MANDARA.
Muddebai, a long day; a large walled town.
Dulo, eight hours; a large walled town.
Mandara, three hours; a city about the size of Mourzuk.
A day's journey from Mandara is sufficient to make a razzia of slaves. Muzgu, a great Kerdi country, is three days' journey from Mandara.
* * * * *
_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
From Kanou:
Dal, three hours; several small villages, where tobes are dyed with indigo.
Zalia (Zaria?), a walled town, containing some 20 or 30,000 souls, and residence of a sultan; one long day.
Lariski, half a day; a small village.
Gaia, eight hours; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
Kafela, half a day; small village.
Yakuba, five hours; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
Mukubi, three hours; a small town on the banks of a river, in which there is always water.
Keskaua, half a day; a small village.
Gala, eight hours; a walled town, and about the size of Zinder; residence of a sultan.
Kusuri, one long day; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan. A river, having always water.
Lokoui, one long day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan. The same river as at Kusuri.
Sakkatou, eight hours. This journey is reckoned at twenty days.
* * * * *
_Route from Taghajeet to Tuat._
From Taghajeet, on the northern frontiers of Aheer, to
Asaiou, two days and a-half; water-station. (All the following names are water-stations, i.e. places where there are wells.)
Logsur, three days and a-half; well: and so of the rest.
Gharghar, three days; tents of wandering tribes of Tuaricks, principally Hagar and Maghatah.
Yaizair, two days. From Gharghar to Tuat there are tents of Tuaricks along all this line of route.
Aifak, one day.
Tamaghaset, one day.
Outur (or Utur), one day.
Tairagin, one day.
Tailak, two days.
Ennimgal, three days.
Tahalai-Oget, two days.
Tisnu, two days.
Minneat, two days.
Tagajert, two days.
Amasir, two days.
Arak, two days.
Tajmut, two days.
Tegtamin, one day.
Agmamar, two days.
Loknaig, two days.
Shab, two days.
Hash-Lugwaira, one day.
El-Gesser (Tuat), one day and a-half; a village.
Ain-Salah, an hour or two.
On this route there are no oases, no date-palms; the road lies through valleys and over plains, lined with rocky mountains, like those of Asben or Aheer. There is no region of sand, but now and then the earth assumes a sandy character. My informant is a Tuatee, who has travelled this route; in fact, no other persons but people of Tuat, unless Hagars and Maghatah, can do so in safety. I could not succeed in extracting more information from my informant. He was a mere barbarian, and pestered me, whilst writing the route, with demands for all sorts of things. Though a resident of the town of Tuat, he was in grain and mould a thorough Targhee bandit.
THE DIFFERENT RACES IN KUKA.
_Resident or Strangers._
1. Shua (the first Arab settlers in Bornou). 2. Arabs Bengazi. 3. Arabs Misratah. 4. Arabs and Moors of Aujilah; Mujabri, from Jalu, or Aujilah. 5. Fezzanee, or people from Fezzan. 6. Walad Suleiman, now domiciled in Kuka, and Wady Gazalahs. 7. People from Tripoli; a very few. 8. People from the west; a very few.
_Belonging to the Sheikh._
9. Bornouee, bulk of the population. 10. Kanembu, north-east from Kuka. 11. Qaiyam, around Kuka, within a few hours. 12. Manga, west from Kuka. 13. Baddi, west from Kuka. 14. Kairi-Kairi, west from Kuka. 15. Lari, west from Kuka. 16. Gizzem, south-west from Kuka, twenty days. 17. Gizzerai, near Gizzem. 18. Engezer, south of Kuka, ten days. 19. Kaiauri, south of Kuka, five days. 20. Babur, south of Kuka, nine days. 21. Figa, south of Kuka, fifteen days. 22. Margi, south of Kuka, seven days. 23. Kobchi, south of Kuka, seven days. 24. Mulgwai, south of Kuka, ten days. 25. Massafai, south of Kuka, fifteen days. 26. Bogwai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26] 27. Umbum, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26] 28. Fali, south of Kuka, thirty-five days.[26] 29. Umbai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26] 30. Koua, south of Kuka, twenty-five days.[26] 31. Butai, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26] 32. Maudraui, south of Kuka, eight days. 33. Begarmi, east of Kuka, twenty days. 34. People of Logun, near Begarmi. 35. People from Wadai; travellers. 36. Sara, a province near Begarmi, with its own sultan. 37. Fitri, a province belonging to Wadai. There is water in the lake of Fitri. People of this province do not come to Kuka.
[26] These countries seem very far south, and yet are said to be under the Sheikh. More information is required on this point.
* * * * *
_Route from Tuat to Wadnoun._
From Tuat, or from Ain-Salah, in Tuat, westward, to
Timmemoun, a small oasis of Tuat, two days; date-palms, &c.
Ourara (Urara), five days; an oasis of Tuat larger than Timmemoun. Between Timmemoun, and Ourara, date-palms and wells in abundance.
Taffilelt, five days. Between Ourara and Taffilelt there are a number of small villages.
Dra, nine days. From Tuat to Dra, passing through Taffilelt, the route is lined with forests of palms, and water everywhere abounds. Dra consists of some one hundred towns and villages.
Weled Omer Ben Melouk, a tribe of Arabs, numbering some five thousand souls, and having maharees and horses. The whole tribe are notorious bandits. From Dra to the tents of this tribe there are some seven days' journey.
Barraber, twenty days, consisting entirely of plains, with here and there wells. This is another tribe of Arabs, wandering in tents, and all bandits. They chiefly mount horses; they have, however, camels and flocks; the tribe consists of about two thousands souls.
Tajakant, ten days; plains, with the mountains of Sous on the north. A tribe of pacific Arabs (i.e. not bandits), numbering about three thousand, having both horses and camels.
Shurfa, or Weled Seba, three days; a tribe of Arabs, all Shereefs, numbering some four or five thousand, having many horses and camels, and flocks, and a few bullocks. Not bandits.
Sakia Hamara, two days; a large walled, town, situated in a wady under a mountain: Shereefs and Marabouteen.
Wad-Noun, three days.
_Ain-Salah._
South, from this point of departure we come to the
Walad Bahammu, at a distance of one day; an oasis of two villages; all Tuatee bandits, riding maharees, wearing turkadees, like Tuaricks. One of these villages is called Akobli, known in the route to Timbuctoo.
North, from Ain Salah are mentioned the
Shellah, a tribe living in tents, speaking a Berber dialect; two days. My informant knows no more.
East, from this point there is only desert towards Ghadamez.
West, from the same, Timmemoun and Ourara.
The person who gave me this information is one Haj Mohammed Ben Welid, a native of Ghadamez. Besides the above route from Tuat to Wadnoun, I am indebted to him for the Niffee route. Six years ago he was at Niffee, and saw there a large American vessel trading for slaves and other merchandise.
* * * * *
_Route from Kanou to Niffee._
From Kanou, south, to
Baibaishi, five days; walled town, and residence of a sultan; about the size of Zinder, situate amongst rocks: a river of continually running water.
Zaria, two days; an immense walled town, of the size of Kanu: residence of a powerful Fullanee sultan.
A wady, with continually running water, one day; no town.
Agoi, three days; a number of small villages, situate under rocks of great height: a stream of running water.
Agoi-Karama, one day; a small village, under lofty heights of rocks: a stream of running water.
Kurmi-Wia (i.e. Difficult River), one day; a running river amidst dense forests; no town: here are immense bamboos, like ghaseb.
Jangaru, three days, amidst forests of trees; a walled town, not quite so large as Zinder, having a Governor or Kaid. Here the route divides into two branches: one west, going to Raba, in seven days; and the other south, to Gorji, one day, on the banks of the Niger; and on to Niffee.
Gorji, one day, on the Niger; a large town.
Ladai, two days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan, called Masaba.
Lori, five days and a-half; a large city, capital of Niffee: the Sultan a Fellatah, called Sita.
From Jangaru, west, Akarri, one day; and from Akarri, seven days; then we come to Raba, passing through all sorts of country.
* * * * *
_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
From Kanou, west, to
Tofa, one day; small village.
Kalenya, one day; small walled town.
Sabonkashi, four days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
Kanya, three days; small village.
Sabokafi, four days; a small village.
Kogo, two days; a large walled town, situate between rocks; a small stream.
Rafi, one day; a large walled town.
_Zanfeirra._
Kauralamoda, two days; a large walled city, and residence of a sultan: a running stream in winter.
Gora, one day; a small village.
Bakura, three days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan: streams in rainy season.
From Rafi to Bakura extends the province or kingdom called Zanfeierra, of which the capital is Bakura.
Between Bakura and the city of Sakkatou, which comes next in order, after two days, there are a number of small villages. Before you reach Sakkatou from Kanou, distant an hour, is a large river, in which is found water during the dry season.
On this route there are not many forests, but there is a good deal of grain and other cultivation, with very few rocks. The road is usually good, only now and then infested by the freebooters from Maradee. This route is travelled in from ten to twelve and fifteen days,--not above fifteen,--with anything like good travelling.
* * * * *
_Route from Zinder to Gomel._
From Zinder, west, to
Gogai, one day; a cluster of villages.
Zerma, one day; a small village.
Azbenaua, one hour; a small village.
Kamai, one hour; a small village.
Gomel, two hours; a large place, and residence of a sultan.
* * * * *
The Kashalla has been so good as to give me the names of the towns and villages between Kuka and the capital of Begarmi; viz, from Kuka to Gornu, one day, but a very short day, three or four hours, and all the days following the same, three or four hours only.
Gornu, one day.
Mardai, one day.
Yaidi, one day.
Digua, one day.
Mozzenai, one day.
Sabala, one day.
Gala, one day.
Mabadai, one day.
Wilgi, one day.
Abadai, one day.
Ngelbai, one day.
Kutheri, one day.
Logonai, one day.
River Chari, one day.
Mudba, or Dar-Begarmi, one day: first town of Begarmi. All the countries hereabouts are called Dar.
After Mudba, in Begarmi:
Gaui, one day.
Joadai, one day.
Derejebany, one day.
Abuger, one day.
Mazanya, one day; capital of Begarmi.
* * * * *
_Gurai to Sakkatou._
From Gurai, westward, to
Tungari, four hours; large place.
Bonai, three hours; large place.
Mashena, four hours; large place; residence of a Sultan.
Alamaiko, eight hours; large place.
Kakori, one long day; small place.
Murma, one long day; large place.
Muddechi, half a day; large place.
Hadayi, half a day; large place.
Jafun, one long day; large place.
Kadawauwa, half a day; large place.
Gunfia, half a day; small place.
Gammoji, half a day; small place.
Gaia, one long day; large place.
Birni-Kanou, nine hours; a great country.
Karaue, half a day; large place.
Dangani, half a day; large place.
Kafi, one long day; large place.
Waunakka, half a day; large place.
Katturkoshi, half a day; very large place; river and rocky hills.
Gaukisa, half a day; large place; river.
Kauramoda, eight hours; large place; river.
Pianchi, two hours; a sultan; river; large place.
Kassara, half a day; small place; rivers.
Gora, half a day; large place; a sultan.
Bakura, half a day; a sultan; a river; large place.
Wangara, one hour; large place; river.
Danshaura, half a day; large place; the same river from Katturkoshi to this place.
Sakkatou, half a day.
* * * * *
_Route from Sakkatou, westwards, to_
Wurmu, one hour; large place.
Kaiua, half a day; large place.
Kalmalu, half a day; large place.
Maranu, half a day; large place.
Kussub-Buni, one long day; large place.
Chinaka, half a day; large place.
Dawakari, half a day; large place.
Laka, half a day; large place.
Gauasu, half a day; large place.
Bodinga, half a day; large place.
Sifaua, half a day; large place.
Danchadi, half a day; large place.
Dinkadi, half a day; large place.
Rekina, eight hours; large place.
Chifaua, half a day; large place.
Chuni, half a day; large place.
Wababi, half a day; large place.
Dankai, half a day; large place.
Kajiji, half a day; large place.
Chagari, half a day; large place.
Salaha, half a day; large place.
Zuondu, half a day; large place.
Tamboel, half a day; large place.
Kallamfaina, half a day: large place.
Saiyinna, half a day; large place.
These half days are about five hours. All that I could learn of this route is, that it goes westwards. The Fellatah tells me there is a good road from Sakkatou to Timbuctou, on which caravans are always going in great numbers.
* * * * *
_Route from Kanou to Adamaua._
From Kanou, south, to
G.[27] Akwa, half a day, i.e. equal to about three or four hours.
G. Del, half a day.
S. Garwai, half a day.
S. Tabti, half a day.
G. Sabongari, half a day.
G. Waram, half a day.
G. Zarranda, half a day.
G. Garu, capital of Boushi; name of the sultan Yokaba; half a day.
S. Kaddara, half a day.
S. Mankaiama, half a day.
S. Yanyam, half a day.
G. Serken Kuddu, half a day.
G. Jab Jab, half a day.
G. Bumanda, half a day.
G. Jennowai, half a day.
G. Kadduna, half a day.
G. Binnoi, half a day.
Zungwan-dunia, half a day; resting-place; not a town.
Zungwan-Kano, half a day; resting-place.
Zungwan-Mageria, half a day; resting-place.
Chikaji, half a day; resting-place.
S. Akam, half a day.
Yungwan-Bauna, half a day; resting-place; no town.
S. Gangomai, half a day.
Kogimagurji, half a day; resting-place.
Koginbaba, half a day; resting-place.
G. Rumji, half a day.
G. Kwancha, half a day; river. Here begins Adamaua.
G. Laro, half a day; river.
G. Chamba, half a day; river.
G. Turwa, half a day; river.
G. Gurrin, half a day; river.
G. Maiyabatta, half a day; river.
G. Yola, half a day; river; the capital of the territories of Adamaua; residence of the sultan, called Mohammed Lauel.
The route is reckoned seventeen days from Kanou to Kwancha, and three days from Kwancha to Yola.
[27] G, large place, or town; S, small place, village. Dictated by the Fellatah horse-dealer, Nammadina.
* * * * *
_Route from Sakkatou to Kabi, S.W._
Silami, 5 hours; large place.
Quaido, 5 hours; large place.
Ugi, one hour; a very considerable town.
Argungu, 5 hours; large place.
Gullema, 5 hours; large place.
Sena, 5 hours; large place.
Birni Kabi: large place.
* * * * *
_Names of Places about Sakkatou, westwards._
Jeka, half a day.
Alieru, 3 hours.
Maddadi, 4 hours.
Margai, 4 hours.
Magagin Kada, 2 hours.
Gommu-gommu, 4 hours.
Binji, 2 hours.
Kandai, 2 hours.
Silami, half a day.
Yabo, 5 hours.
Dundaai, half a day.
Quallai, 3 hours.
Dagga, one long day.
Indaba, half a day.
Assara, one long day.
Zaia, one long day.
Manni, half a day.
Durgalai, 2 hours.
Killarai, 2 hours.
Fadaita, half a day.
Kotuturu, half a day.
Tofa, half a day.
Gidan Majibta, 2 hours.
Maikujaira, half a day.
Kundus, 1 1/2 hours.
Quaquara, 2 hours.
These are all considerable towns and villages. As to their relative position, I have merely written down how distant one is from the other.
The following is a list which I have obtained of the Tibboo nations (or tribes):--
1. Etteri, two days north of Kuka or Bornou. 2. Gunda, seven days north from Bornou. 3. Arinda, one day from Gunda. 4. Yurimma, two days from Gunda. 5. Wandala, three days east from Yurimma. 6. Gaidua, four days east from Wandala. 7. Mussaui, seven days east from Wandala. 8. Sakkarta, seven days east from Wandala. 9. Madema, two days east from Sakkarta (country of Kanum). 10. Choiokkera, four days east from Madema. 11. Tumbela, two days north from Gunda. 12. Masella, eleven days north from Bornou (a country of dates). 13. El-Wudda, one day from Marsella. 14. Dummeya, thirty days east of Bornou (in Borgu). 15. Zuaeda, the Tibesti people. 16. Tamara, country of Bilma, &c. 17. Tauwia, two days north of Bilma. 18. Etmada, one day north from Bilma. 19. Addubocha, fifteen days east of Bilma. 20. Fuktua, one day east from Addubocha. 21. Abuya, two days north from Fuktua. 22. Belguda, eight days east of Bilma. 23. Nuazma, three days east of Belguda. 24. Karrai, three days east of Kameru, near the Chada.
THE END.
LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.