PART IV

XXII. A RURAL RAILROAD . . . . . . . . . 273

XXIII. ADVENTURES IN A BATH AT KAMOGAWA . . . . . 284

XXIV. A NIGHT AT AN INN . . . . . . . . . 295

XXV. PRETTY GEN TAJIMA . . . . . . . . . 306

XXVI. SUPERSTITIONS AND YUKI'S EYES . . . . . 315

XXVII. "JAPANNED ENGLISH" AND ART . . . . . . 321

XXVIII. SAYONARA . . . . . . . . . . . 335

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

At the top of the temple steps, above Lake Biwa _Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

Peasants of the region speak of Fuji as _O Yama_, the "Honourable Mountain" . . . . . . . . 6

With his drum and his monkey he is Japan's nearest equivalent for our old-style organ-grinder . . 22

The Japanese is not a slave to his possessions . . . 38

Sawing and planing are accomplished with a pulling instead of a driving motion . . . . . . . . . 38

The bath of the proletariat consists of a large barrel . 54

While Yuki's fortune was being told I photographed her . 70

You cannot understand Japan without understanding the Japanese woman . . . . . . . . . . . 86

A laundry on the river's brim . . . . . . . 94

Digging clams at low-tide in Tokyo Bay . . . . . 94

Cocoons--Five thousand silk worms make one kimono . . 118

No one without a sweet nature could smile the smile of one of these tea-house maids . . . . . . . . 118

Family luncheon a la Japonaise . . . . . . . 134

Kimi-chiyo was at almost every Japanese-style party I attended . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

It takes two hours to do a geisha's hair . . . . 162

Mrs. Charles Burnett in a 15th-Century Japanese Court costume . . . . . . . . . . . 170

A teahouse garden, Tokyo . . . . . . . . 178

Viscount Shibusawa . . . . . . . . . . 190

Viscount Kentaro Kaneko . . . . . . . . . 190

The film was not large enough to hold the family of this youngish fisherman at Nabuto . . . . . . . 214

Tai-no-ura . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

The theatre street in Kyoto is one of the most interesting highways in the world . . . . . . . . . 246

The gates of the Tanjo-ji temple . . . . . . 246

Nor could a _grande dame_ in an opera box have exhibited more aplomb . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

Pretty Gen was between the shafts . . . . . . 278

The middle-aged coolie hurriedly seated him on the bank . 294

Asakusa, the great popular temple of Tokyo . . . . 310

Saki, the housekeeper, obligingly posed for me . . . 326