Part 1
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My Knitting Book.
By Miss Lambert, (Authoress of the Hand-book of Needlework.)
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1843.
PRICE EIGHTEEN PENCE.
Richards, 100, St. Martin's Lane.
PREFACE.
The examples of knitting, contained in the following pages, have been selected with the greatest care,--many are original,--and the whole are so arranged as to render them comprehensible even to a novice in the art.
Knitting being so often sought, as an evening amusement, both by the aged and by invalids, a large and distinct type has been adopted,--as affording an additional facility. The writer feels confident in the recommendation of "MY KNITTING BOOK," and humbly hopes it may meet with the same liberal reception that has been accorded to her "HAND-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK."
The numerous piracies that have been committed on her last mentioned work, have been one inducement to publish this little volume; and from the low price at which it is fixed, nothing, but a very extended circulation, can ensure her from loss. Some few of the examples have been selected from the chapter on knitting, in the "HAND-BOOK."
_3, New Burlington Street_, _November 1843._
CONTENTS.
EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED IN KNITTING 9 THE STANDARD FILIERE 12 SIBERIAN CUFFS 13 A KNITTED SILK CUFF 13 OPEN STITCH FOR CUFFS 14 VERY PRETTY CUFFS 14 MUFFATEES WITH TWO COLOURS 16 GENTLEMEN'S MUFFATEES 17 PLAIN RIBBED MUFFATEES 17 ANOTHER PAIR OF MUFFATEES 18 KNITTED CUFFS, SHELL PATTERN 18 DOUBLE KNITTED CUFFS 20 A BRIOCHE 21 FRINGE PATTERN KNITTING 23 AN OPERA CAP 24 A SONTAG, OR CEPHALINE 26 A BONNET CAP 28 DOUBLE KNITTING FOR COMFORTERS, ETC. 29 KNITTED LACE 29 KNITTED INSERTION 31 CORAL TRIMMING FOR A MUSLIN DRESS 32 BARLEY-CORN STITCH 32 A MUFF, IN COLOURS OF SABLE 33 ANOTHER MUFF 34 CLOSE STITCH FOR A WAISTCOAT, ETC 34 LONG SLEEVES TO WEAR UNDER THE DRESS 35 TWELVE PATTERNS FOR D'OYLEYS, TIDIES, ETC. 36 I.--LEAF AND TRELLIS PATTERN 36 II.--ROSE-LEAF PATTERN 40 III.--POINT PATTERN 42 IV.--GOTHIC PATTERN 43 V.--SCOTCH PATTERN 44 VI.--CHEVRON PATTERN 45 VII.--VANDYKE PATTERN 46 VIII.--LACE PATTERN 47 IX.--FISH-BONE PATTERN 49 X.--GERMAN PATTERN 49 XI.--DIAMOND PATTERN 52 XII.--SHELL PATTERN 53 CABLE KNITTING 54 A PURSE 55 PRETTY STITCH FOR A PURSE 55 A PENCE JUG, OR PURSE 56 A STRONG PURSE 59 A PRETTY OPEN STITCH FOR A PURSE 60 OPEN STITCH PURSE WITH BEADS 61 A PURSE IN FINE SILK 62 HERRINGBONE, OR SHETLAND STITCH FOR A PURSE 62 FIVE PRETTY PATTERNS FOR BAGS 63 I.--DIAGONAL CHECK PATTERN BAG 63 II.--LOZENGE PATTERN BAG 64 III.--HEM-STITCH PATTERN BAG 65 IV.--SPIDER PATTERN BAG 68 V.--STRIPE PATTERN BAG 69 A BAG, WITH BLACK OR GARNET BEADS 69 KNITTED FRINGE 70 VANDYKE BORDER 71 A WARM HALF-SQUARE SHAWL 73 A WARM DOUBLE KNITTED SCARF, IN TWO COLOURS 74 A BORDER FOR A SHAWL OR QUILT 75 RAISED KNITTING FOR A SHAWL 76 A RUSSIAN SHAWL, IN BRIOCHE STITCH 77 A LIGHT STITCH FOR A SHAWL 77 STAR PATTERN SHAWL, IN TWO COLOURS 78 BAREGE KNITTING FOR SHAWLS 79 A SHETLAND KNITTED SCARF 80 SHETLAND PATTERN FOR A SHAWL 82 OTHER PATTERNS FOR SHAWLS 83 DOUBLE DIAMOND STITCH FOR A QUILT 83 A QUILT 84 A LIGHT AND WARM COUNTERPANE 85 CROSS STITCH PATTERN FOR A QUILT 86 ANOTHER QUILT 88 A QUILT, OR COUVRE-PIED, IN SQUARES 89 A COVER FOR AN AIR PILLOW 92 A BABY'S HOOD 92 A BABY'S SOCK 97 ANOTHER BABY'S SOCK 99 A BABY'S STOCKING 100 A CARRIAGE BOOT 102 A DOUBLE-KNITTED NIGHT SOCK 104 A FRILEUSE OR NECK TIPPET 106 WHEEL PATTERN FOR TIDIES, ETC 106 KNITTED CORAL 107 HINTS ON KNITTING 107
MY KNITTING BOOK.
Explanation of Terms used in Knitting.
_To cast on._--The first interlacement of the cotton on the needle.
_To cast off._--To knit two stitches, and to pass the first over the second, and so on to the last stitch, which is to be secured by drawing the thread through.
_To cast over._--To bring the cotton forward round the needle.
_To narrow._--To lessen, by knitting two stitches together.
_To seam._--To knit a stitch with the cotton before the needle.
_To widen._--To increase by making a stitch, bringing the cotton round the needle, and knitting the same when it occurs.
_A turn._--Two rows in the same stitch, backwards and forwards.
_To turn._--To change the stitch.
_To turn over._--To bring the wool forward over the needle.
_A row._--The stitches from one end of the needle to the other.
_A round._--A row, when the stitches are on two, three, or more needles.
_A plain row._--That composed of simple knitting.
_To pearl a row._--To knit with the cotton before the needle.
_To rib._--To work alternate rows of plain and pearl knitting.
_To bring the thread forward._--To bring the cotton forward so as to make an open stitch.
_A loop stitch._--Made by bringing the cotton before the needle, which, in knitting the succeeding stitch, will again take its own place.
_To slip or pass a stitch._--To change it from one needle to the other without knitting it.
_To fasten on._--The best way to fasten on is to place the two ends contrariwise, and knit a few stitches with both together. For knitting, with silk, or fine cotton, a _weaver's_ knot will be found the best.
_To take under._--To pass the cotton from one needle to the other, without changing its position.
_Pearl, seam, and rib-stitch_--All signify the same.
N.B. The _sizes_ of the _needles_ are given according to the _Standard Filiere_.
* * * * *
The following engraving represents the _Standard Filiere_, or knitting and netting needle gauge, an instrument invented some time since by the authoress, and now in general use, by which the different sizes of knitting and netting needles can be ascertained with the greatest accuracy.
It is necessary, in giving or following directions for knitting, to caution knitters to observe a medium in their work--not knitting either too loose or too tight.
Siberian Cuffs.
Nine shades of German wool, used double, will be required.--No. 8 needles.
Cast on sixty-four stitches with the darkest shade;--knit three plain rows.
_Fourth row_--bring the wool forward, knit two together.
Repeat these four rows, (which form the pattern), nine times,--taking a lighter shade of wool each time.
A Knitted Silk Cuff.
Coarse black netting silk.--Four needles, No. 22. Cast on twenty-eight stitches on each of three needles:--knit two plain rounds.
_Third round_--bring the silk forward, slip one; knit one; pass the slipped stitch over it; knit one; pearl one.
Repeat the third round, until the cuff be of the depth required; then,--knit two plain rounds to correspond with the commencement.
Open Stitch for Cuffs.
With coarse silk.--Four needles, No. 22.
Cast on any even number of stitches, on each of three needles.
_First round_--knit two together.
_Second round_--bring the silk forward, knit one.
_Third round_--plain knitting.
Repeat from the first round.
Very Pretty Cuffs.
Two colours are generally used--say red and white. They are prettiest in four-thread embroidery fleecy, or German wool.--Two needles No. 16, and two No. 20, will be required.
Cast on forty-six stitches. } Bring the wool forward, knit two together. } white. Knit six plain rows. }
Knit six plain rows. } Bring the wool forward, knit two together. } red. Knit six plain rows. }
Knit six plain rows. } Bring the wool forward, knit two together. } white. Knit six plain rows. }
Knit six plain rows. } Bring the wool forward, knit two together. } red. Knit six plain rows. }
Knit six plain rows. } white. Bring the wool forward, knit two together. }
Take double wool, and needles double the size.
Knit one plain row. } Pearl one row. } Knit two plain rows. } white. Pearl one row. } Knit one row. }
Knit one plain row. } red. Pearl one row. }
Repeat these two red and white stripes, alternately, four times, and finish with the two stitches together, as at the commencement.
The cuffs, when finished, roll over at the top.
Muffatees with two Colours.
German wool,--three needles, No. 25. The prettiest colours are cerise and brown;--commencing with the brown. Cast on eighty-eight stitches, viz.--thirty on each of two needles, and twenty-eight on the third.--Knit four rounds,--two stitches of each alternately pearl and plain.
Knit one plain round.
Pearl three rounds.
The above is all with one colour,--the brown.
Take off two stitches without knitting; knit six with the cerise.--Repeat, alternately, to the end of the round.
The next nine rounds are the same.
Knit one plain round with the brown.
Pearl three rounds.
Commence again with the cerise,--knitting four stitches only at the beginning of the round;--then take off two stitches, and knit six, alternately, as before.
These cuffs may be worked to any desired length, finishing off the same as at the commencement.
Gentlemen's Muffatees.
Cast on fifty-four stitches, in double German wool.--No. 14 needles.
_First row_--bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two together.--Repeat.
Every row is the same,--the first and last stitches being plain. When finished they are to be sewn up.
Plain Ribbed Muffatees.
Four needles will be required.
Cast on each of three needles, eighteen or twenty-four stitches, according to the size desired.
_First round_--knit three; pearl three;--alternately.
_Second and succeeding rounds_--repeat the first.
Another Pair of Muffatees.
Three-thread fleecy, or Zephyr wool.--No. 13 needles.
Cast on thirty-six stitches.
Knit twenty plain stitches, and sixteen in double knitting.
When they are sufficiently large, knit or sew them up. The double knitting comes over the hand, the plain knitting setting tight to the wrist.
Knitted Cuffs, Shell Pattern.
These may be made either with silk, cotton, or fine wool.--Needles No. 22.
Cast thirty stitches on each of two needles, and forty on a third;--knit one plain round.
_Second round_--pearl one; pass the silk back, knit one; pearl one; bring the silk forward, knit one, by which you make a loop stitch;--repeat this five times, which, with the loop stitch, will make thirteen from the last pearled stitch. Commence the pattern again, as at beginning of round.
_Third round_--pearl one; knit one; pearl one; slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit nine; knit two together.--Repeat to the end of the round.
_Fourth round_--same as third, except that there will be only seven plain stitches to knit.
_Fifth round_--same as third, with only five plain stitches.
There will now be the same number of stitches on the needles as at the commencement, viz.--seven for the shell part of the pattern, and three for the division.
Knit one plain round, except on the three division stitches, which are to be knitted as before.
Commence again as at second round. When the cuffs are of sufficient length, knit a plain round to correspond with the beginning.
The prettiest way of knitting these cuffs will be to work the first pattern in cerise;--the next five in white; the next five, alternately in cerise and white; then five in white; and finish with one in cerise.
Double Knitted Cuffs.
These cuffs are prettiest in single German wool; two colours are required,--say claret and white. They will take sixteen skeins of white wool and eight of claret--No. 13 needles.
Cast on forty-six stitches in claret,--pearl four rows. Pearl one row white; in the next--bring the wool forward, knit two together:--repeat these two rows of white, twice,--making altogether six rows. The four rows of claret in pearl knitting, and the six rows of white, are now to be repeated, alternately, until six stripes of each are worked. Then,--
Pick up seventy stitches in claret, on the right side, at one of the narrow ends, and pearl one row. Repeat the six rows of white,--finishing with the four rows of claret, and cast off.
Repeat the same at the other end of the cuff,--observing that the knitting of the frill is to be on the wrong side.
Sew up the cuffs, and double them, so as to allow the frill, at the one end, to appear above that at the other.
A Brioche[A].
The _Brioche_ knitting-stitch is simply--bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two together.
A Brioche is formed of sixteen straight narrow stripes, and sixteen wide stripes, the latter gradually decreasing in width towards the top or centre of the cushion. It may be made in three-thread fleecy, or double German wool, with ivory or wooden pins, No. 8.
Cast on ninety stitches, in black, for the narrow stripe; knit two turns;--then, three turns in gold colour, and two turns again in black. This completes the narrow stripe.
The conical stripe is knitted as follows:--bring the wool forward, knit two together, twice, and turn; knit these two, and two more of the black and turn; continue this,--taking each time two more stitches of the black, until within two stitches of the top, and turn; the wool will now be at the bottom or wide part of the stripe. Commence again with the black, as in the former narrow stripe, knitting the two black stitches at the top. It may be also as well to diminish the narrow stripes by turning when within two stitches of the top, in the centre row of gold colour.
By a _turn_ is meant one row and back again.
The colours for the conical stripes may be any two or four colours, which assort well together; or each may be different. When the last conical stripe is finished, it is to be knitted to the first narrow stripe.--The brioche is to be made up with a stiff bottom of mill board, about eight inches in diameter, covered with cloth. The top is drawn together, and fastened in the centre with a tuft of soft wool, or a cord and tassels. It should be stuffed with down or fine combed wool.
[A] So called from its resemblance, in shape, to the well known French cake of that name.
Fringe Pattern Knitting.
Cast on any even number of stitches, in German wool--No. 10 needles.
Turn the wool round the needle, bringing it in front again; knit two together, taken in front.
Every row is the same.
An Opera Cap.
No. 10 needles--Double German wool, or three-thread fleecy.
Cast on eighty stitches,--white.
Pearl one row, } white. Knit one row, }
Pearl one row,--coloured. In the next row,--
Bring the wool before the needle, and knit two stitches together.
Pearl one row, } white. Knit one row, }
Pearl one row, } white. Knit one row, }
The above forms the border.
_First division_--coloured.
Pearl one row.
Knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit one row.
Knit a fancy row, by bringing the wool forward, and knitting two stitches together.
_Second_--white.
Pearl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end.
Knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit a fancy row as before.
_Third_--coloured.
Pearl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.
Knit one row, _without_ decreasing.
Knit the fancy row as before.
_Fourth_, _Fifth_, _Sixth_, _Seventh_--
The third division is to be repeated, alternately with white and coloured wool.
_Eighth_--white. _Ninth_--coloured.
In these two last divisions, only two stitches are to be decreased in each; this is to be done in the row after the pearl,--decreasing one stitch at each end.
N.B. There should be forty-six stitches left on the needle in the last row.
Pick up thirty stitches on each side, and make the borders at the sides and back like that in front.
Make up the cap by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it all round: it is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbons or plaited wool, with tassels of the same.
A Sontag, or Cephaline
The border for this cap is worked the same as the preceding,--casting on one hundred and two stitches;--single German wool;--No. 15 needles.
Knit one row in white, to bring the pearl on the right side. Then,--
With the darkest shade, bring the wool round the needle, pearl two together; pearl one.--Repeat to the end of the row.
In the next row--bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit one.--Repeat to the end of the row.
Knit forty-two rows in the same manner, taking in one stitch at the end of almost every row, so that the number of stitches in the last row is reduced to seventy-two, taking care to keep the pattern regular, and changing the colour every two rows.
Take up forty stitches, on each side, and knit one row of white round all the three sides: knit another row to make the pearl, and finish the border with white and coloured wool, as in the preceding cap. Finish with ribbons, or cords and tassels.
The border is knitted in white, and the middle shade of whatever colour is used in the head piece. This is prettiest in five distinct shades of any colour, with one or two rows of white between each division of shade.
A Bonnet Cap.
Cast on ninety stitches, in hair-brown German wool, for border.--No. 16 needles.
_First, second, and third rows_--plain knitting.
_Fourth row_--bring the wool forward, knit two together. Then,--
Commence with another colour--say white.
_Fifth, sixth, and seventh rows_--plain knitting.
_Eighth row_--bring the wool forward, knit two together.
Repeat these last four rows seven times: then the brown border as before. They form a band of about four inches wide, which is to be drawn up at the two ends, and strings attached to tie it close to the chin.
Then, cast on forty stitches and commence another band with the brown border as above,--three rows of the pattern in white, and repeat the brown border. This is to be sewn or knitted on to the head piece, and forms the band for the back. A ribbon is to be run through it, to tie it close to the head.
Double Knitting for Comforters, etc.
Large-sized needles, No. 1, and four-thread fleecy, will be required.
Cast on any even number of stitches.
_First row_--bring the wool forward, slip one; pass the wool back, knit one, turning the wool twice round the needle.--Repeat to the end of the row.
Every succeeding row is the same.--The stitch knitted in one row, is the slip-stitch in the next.
Knitted Lace.
Cast on twelve stitches with very fine cotton, or thread.--No. 25 needles.
_First row_--slip one; knit two; pearl one; knit two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit two; pearl one; knit one; turn the thread once round the needle, knit two, taken together at the back.
_Second row_--slip one; knit one; turn the thread twice round the needle, knit two; pearl two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit one; pearl two together; turn the thread twice round the needle, pearl two together; knit one.
_Third row_--slip one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; turn the thread once round the needle, knit two together, taken at the back; knit one; knit two together; knit three.
_Fourth row_--slip one; turn the thread once round the needle; pearl one; knit two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit four; pearl two together; turn the thread twice round the needle, pearl two together; knit one.
_Fifth row_--slip one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; knit two together; turn the thread twice round the needle, knit three; pearl two together; knit one.