Chapter 15

While we were talking, a message came up to say that the young men of the cabinet were all coming up to say good-bye to me. I had seen the directors earlier in the day, so Madame de Zuylen took her leave, promising to come to my Christmas tree in the rue Dumont d'Urville. The young men seemed sorry to say good-bye--I was, too. I had seen a great deal of them and always found them ready and anxious to help me in every way. The Comte de Lasteyrie, who was a great friend of ours as well as a secretary, went about a great deal with us. W. called upon him very often for all sorts of things, knowing he could trust him absolutely. He told one of my friends that one of his principal functions was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the charity sales, carrying a package of women's chemises under his arm. It was quite true that I often bought "poor clothes" at the sales. The objects exposed in the way of screens, pincushions, table-covers, and, in the spring, hats made by some of the ladies, were so appalling that I was glad to have poor clothes to fall back upon, but I don't remember his ever carrying my purchases home with me.

They were much amused when suddenly Francis burst into the room, having escaped a moment from his Nonnon, who was busy with her last packing, his little face flushed and quivering with anger because his toys had been packed and he was to be taken away from the big house. He kicked and screamed like a little mad thing, until his nurse came to the rescue. I made a last turn in the rooms to see that all trace of my occupation had vanished. Francis, half pacified, was seated on the billiard-table, an old grey-haired huissier, who was always on duty up-stairs, taking care of him. The huissiers and house servants were all assembled in the hall, and the old Pierson, who had been there for years, was the spokesman, and hoped respectfully that Madame "would soon come back...." W. didn't come with us, as he still had people to see and only got home in time for a late dinner.

We dined that night and for many nights afterward with our uncle Lutteroth (who had a charming hotel filled with pictures and bibelots and pretty things) just across the street, as it was some little time before our kitchen and household got into working order again. The first few days were, of course, very tiring and uncomfortable--the house seemed so small after the big rooms at the Quai d'Orsay. I didn't attempt to do anything with the salons, as we were going away so soon--carpets and curtains had to be arranged to keep the cold out, but the big boxes remained in the carriage house--not unpacked. We had a procession of visitors all day--and tried to make W.'s library possible--comfortable it wasn't, as there were packages of books and papers and boxes everywhere.

I had a good many visits and flowers on New Year's day--which was an agreeable surprise--Lord Lyons, Orloff, the Sibberns, Comte de Ségur, M. Alfred André, and others. André, an old friend of W.'s, a very conservative Protestant banker, was very blue about affairs. André was the type of the modern French Protestant. They are almost a separate class in France--are very earnest, religious, honourable, narrow-minded people. They give a great deal in charity and good works of all kinds. In Paris the Protestant coterie is very rich. They associate with all the Catholics, as many of them entertain a great deal, but they live among themselves and never intermarry. I hardly know a case where a French Protestant has married a Catholic. I suppose it is a remnant of their old Huguenot blood, and the memories of all their forefathers suffered for their religion, which makes them so intolerant. The ambassadors had paid their usual official visit to the Elysée--said Grévy was very smiling and amiable, didn't seem at all preoccupied. We had a family dinner at my uncle's on New Year's night, and all the family with wonderful unanimity said the best wish they could make for W. was that 1880 would see him out of politics and leading an independent if less interesting life.

An interesting life it certainly was, hearing so many questions discussed, seeing all sorts of people of all nationalities and living as it were behind the scenes. The Chamber of Deputies in itself was a study, with its astounding changes of opinion, with no apparent cause. One never knew in the morning what the afternoon's session would bring, for as soon as the Republican party felt themselves firmly established, they began to quarrel among themselves. I went back to the ministry one afternoon to pay a formal visit to Madame de Freycinet on her reception day. I had rather put it off, thinking that the sight of the well-known rooms and faces would be disagreeable to me and make me regret, perhaps, the past, but I felt already that all that old life was over--one adapts one's self so quickly to different surroundings. It did seem funny to be announced by my own special huissier, Gérard, and to find myself sitting in the green drawing-room with all the palms and flowers arranged just as they always were for me, and a semicircle of diplomats saying exactly the same things to Madame de Freycinet that they had said to me a few days before, but I fancy that always happens in these days of democracy and equalising education, and that under certain circumstances, we all say and do exactly the same thing. I had quite a talk with Sibbern, the Swedish minister, who was very friendly and sympathetic, not only at our leaving the Foreign Office, but at the extreme discomfort of moving in such frightfully cold weather. He was wrapped in furs, as if he were going to the North Pole. However, I assured him we were quite warm and comfortable, gradually settling down into our old ways, and I was already looking back on my two years at the Quai d'Orsay as an agreeable episode in my life. I had quite a talk too with the Portuguese minister, Mendes Leal. He was an interesting man, a poet and a dreamer, saw more, I fancy, of the literary world of Paris than the political. Blowitz was there, of course--was always everywhere in moments of crisis, talking a great deal, and letting it be understood that he had pulled a great many wires all those last weeks. He too regretted that W. had not taken the London Embassy, assured me that it would have been a very agreeable appointment in England--was surprised that I hadn't urged it. I replied that I had not been consulted. Many people asked when they could come and see me--would I take up my reception day again? That wasn't worth while, as I was going away so soon, but I said I would be there every day at five o'clock, and always had visits.

One day Madame Sadi Carnot sat a long time with me. Her husband had been named undersecretary at the Ministry of Public Works in the new cabinet, and she was very pleased. She was a very charming, intelligent, cultivated woman--read a great deal, was very keen about politics and very ambitious (as every clever woman should be) for her husband and sons. I think she was a great help socially to her husband when he became President of the Republic. He was a grave, reserved man, didn't care very much for society. I saw her very often and always found her most attractive. At the Elysée she was amiable and courteous to everybody and her slight deafness didn't seem to worry her nor make conversation difficult. She did such a charming womanly thing just after her husband's assassination. He lay in state for some days at the Elysée, and M. Casimir Périer, his successor, went to make her a visit. As he was leaving he said his wife would come the next day to see Madame Carnot. She instantly answered, "Pray do not let her come; she is young, beginning her life here at the Elysée. I wouldn't for worlds that she should have the impression of sadness and gloom that must hang over the palace as long as the President is lying there. I should like her to come to the Elysée only when all traces of this tragedy have gone--and to have no sad associations--on the contrary, with the prospect of a long happy future before her."

W. went the two or three Fridays we were in Paris to the Institute, where he was most warmly received by his colleagues, who had much regretted his enforced absences the years he was at the Foreign Office. He told them he was going to Rome, where he hoped still to find some treasures in the shape of inscriptions inédites, with the help of his friend Lanciani. The days passed quickly enough until we started. It was not altogether a rest, as there were always so many people at the house, and W. wanted to put order into his papers before he left. Freycinet made various changes at the Quai d'Orsay. M. Desprey, Directeur de la Politique (a post he had occupied for years) was named ambassador to Rome in the place of the Marquis de Gabriac. I don't think he was very anxious to go. His career had been made almost entirely at the Foreign Office, and he was much more at home in his cabinet, with all his papers and books about him, than he would be abroad among strangers. He came to dinner one night, and we talked the thing over. W. thought the rest and change would do him good. He was named to the Vatican, where necessarily there was much less to do in the way of social life than at the Quirinal. He was perfectly au courant of all the questions between the Vatican and the French clergy--his son, secretary of embassy, would go with him. It seemed rather a pleasant prospect.

W. went once or twice to the Senate, as the houses met on the 12th or 14th of January, but there was nothing very interesting those first days. The Chamber was taking breath after the holidays and the last ministerial crisis, and giving the new ministry a chance. I think Freycinet had his hands full, but he was quite equal to the task. I went late one afternoon to the Elysée. I had written to Madame Grévy to ask if she would receive me before I left for Italy. When I arrived, the one footman at the door told me Madame Grévy was un peu souffrante, would see me up-stairs. I went up a side staircase, rather dark, preceded by the footman, who ushered me into Madame Grévy's bedroom. It looked perfectly uncomfortable--was large, with very high ceilings, stiff gilt furniture standing against the wall, and the heat something awful,--a blazing fire in the chimney. Madame Grévy was sitting in an armchair, near the fire, a grey shawl on her shoulders and a lace fichu on her head. It was curiously unlike the bedroom I had just left. I had been to see a friend, who was also souffrante. She was lying under a lace coverlet lined with pink silk, lace, and embroidered cushions all around her, flowers, pink lamp-shades, silver flacons, everything most luxurious and modern. The contrast was striking. Madame Grévy was very civil, and talkative,--said she was very tired. The big dinners and late hours she found very fatiguing. She quite understood that I was glad to get away, but didn't think it was very prudent to travel in such bitterly cold weather--and Rome was very far, and wasn't I afraid of fever? I told her I was an old Roman--had lived there for years, knew the climate well, and didn't think it was worse than any other. She said the President had had a visit from W. and a very long talk with him, and that he regretted his departure very much, but that he didn't think "Monsieur Waddington was au fond de son sac." Grévy was always a good friend to W.--on one or two occasions, when there was a sort of cabal against him, Grévy took his part very warmly--and in all questions of home policy and persons W. found him a very keen, shrewd observer--though he said very little--rarely expressed an opinion. I didn't make a very long visit--found my way down-stairs as well as I could--no servant was visible either on the stairs or in the hall, and my own footman opened the big doors and let me out. We got off the first days of February--as, up to the last moment, W. had people to see. We went for two or three days to Bourneville--I had one or two very cold tramps in the woods (very dry) which is quite unusual at this time of the year, but the earth was frozen hard. Inside the woods we were well sheltered, but when we came out on the plain the cold and icy wind was awful. The workmen had made fires to burn the roots and rotten wood, and we were very glad to stop and warm ourselves. Some had their children with them, who looked half perished with cold, always insufficiently clad, but they were quite happy roasting potatoes in the ashes. I was so cold that I tied a woollen scarf around my head, just as the women in Canada do when they go sleighing or skating.

We had a breakfast one day for some of W.'s influential men in the country, who were much disgusted at the turn affairs had taken and that W. could no longer remain minister, but they were very fairly au courant of all that was going on in Parliament, and quite understood that for the moment the moderate, experienced men had no chance. The young Republic must have its fling. Has the country learned much or gained much in its forty years of Republic?

INDEX

Adams, Sir Francis, school friend of M. Waddington Aisne, deputies and senators of Department of the Alexander of Battenberg, Prince Alexander of Russia, Grand Duke (Emperor Alexander III), interview with Alexandra, Queen Ambassadors, treatment of, in Russia Americans, violation of rules of court etiquette by; good-natured tolerance of, in European circles; Lord Lyons's opinion of women of Andrassy, Count, at Berlin Congress; personality of André, Alfred Annamites as dinner guests Aosta, Due d', in Paris at opening of exposition; author's impressions of Arab horses presented to M. Waddington Arco, Count Arnim, Count, German ambassador in Paris; succeeded by Prince Hohenlohe Aumale, Duc d', president of Bazaine court-martial; at ball at British embassy Austria, description of Empress of, when in Paris; stiffness of court etiquette in

Baden, Grand Duchess of, M. Waddington's meeting with Bazaine, Marshal, court-martial of Beaconsfield, Lord, at Berlin Congress Bear as a pet at German embassy Begging letters received by persons in public life Berlin Congress, the; French plenipotentiaries named to the; M. Waddington's account of doings at Berlin Treaty, signing of Bernhardt, Sarah Beust, Comte de, as a musician Bismarck, Count Herbert, story of telegram from; welcomes M. Waddington to Berlin Bismarck, Countess Marie Bismarck, Prince, account of, at Berlin Congress; anxiety of, over French advance in radicalism; suspicions of sincerity of, in anxiety for France; surprise of, over speedy payment of war indemnity by France Bismarck, Princess, M. Waddington's account of Blowitz, M. de, present during meeting of Berlin Congress; M. Waddington's distrust of; Prince Hohenlohe's high opinion of; at Madame de Freycinet's Borel, General Bourneville, days at; a winter house-party at; a winter visit to Breakfasts, political Bridge, remarks on Broglie, Duc de, cabinet of; unpopularity of; break-up of cabinet Brown, John, retainer of Queen Victoria Bunsen, George de Bunsen family

Canrobert, Marshal Capel, Monsignor Cardinals, incidents attending naming of Carnot, M. Sadi Carnot, Madame Carvalho, Madame Casimir Périer, dislike of, for office of president; mentioned; story of Madame Carnot and Cataldi, Monsignor Catholics, views of, concerning Protestants Chanzy, General, appointed ambassador to Russia Châteaux in France Children interest of Frenchwomen in good treatment of, by French of all classes Chinese ambassador, experience at dinner with Cialdini, General, Italian ambassador in Paris Clarence, Duke of, love affair of, with Catholic princess Comédie Française, finished style of artists of the Compiègne, a scene at, during the Empire Conciergerie Mr. Gladstone at the interest of American visitors in the Conservatoire, Sunday afternoon concerts at the marriages made at the change effected in dress of chorus of the Monsignor Czascki at the Convent of the Soeurs Augustines in the rue de la Santé Corti Italian plenipotentiary to Congress of Berlin feeling of, over establishment of Tunisian protectorate by France Costumes, national, seen in Paris during exposition year Country people lack of interest of French, in form of government attitude of, in election of 1877 enthusiasm of, aroused over Republic Croizette, Théâtre Français artist Cyprus, cession of, to England Czascki, Monsignor, papal nunzio

Deauville, a vacation at Décazes, Duc appointed to Foreign Office advice on social etiquette from Duc de Broglie contrasted with Denmark, Crown Prince of in Paris during exposition at ball at British embassy at ball at the Quai d'Orsay Desprey, Monseigneur, created a Cardinal Desprey, M. a plenipotentiary of France at Berlin Congress quoted on treatment of ambassadors in Russia named ambassador to Rome Diplomatists antagonistic attitude of, toward the Republic anomalous and mistaken behaviour of superficiality of majority of Dufaure, M. appointed Président du Conseil now cabinet formed by Dufferin, Lord

Election of 1877 Elysée, ceremonies attending naming of Cardinals at English, Monsignor English visitors to Paris in 1879 Eugénie, Empress at Compiègne description of, and reminiscences concerning Exposition Universelle of 1878 closing of good moral effect of

Fan, an autographed, as souvenir of Berlin Congress Farmers, usual indifference of French, to form of government enthusiasm of, over the Republic Ferry, Jules Fitz-Maurice, Lord Edmond France, astonishing rapidity of recovery of, after Franco-Prussian War Frederick-Charles, Prince French people self-centred attitude of conventions in dress of girls interest of women in their children lack of regard for, on part of Northern races defence of fine qualities of difficulties of interpreting conversation, cramped lives of middle-class women religious question among Freycinet, M. de appointed Minister of Public Works ability displayed by, as a Republican statesman excellent qualities of succeeds M. Waddington as premier official changes made by Freycinet, Madame de author's visit to, at Quai d'Orsay

Gambetta, Léon, manners and appearance of force of oratory of, in campaign of 1877 mentioned appreciation by, of value of Tunisian protectorate comparison of Grévy and General amnesty, discussion of the. Germans, want of tact characteristic; position of women among; advance in comfort and elegance among. Germany, feeling in, over radicalism in France, Gérôme, J. L., as a table companion. Gladstones, visits from the. Glynn, Admiral, school friend of M. Waddington. Gortschakoff, Prince, quoted on death of Thiers; at Berlin Congress; a diplomatist of the old-fashioned type. Grand Opera in Paris. Grange, Chateau de la, home of Lafayette. Grant, President and Mrs., in Paris. Greek national dress. Grévy, election of, to presidency; good figure cut by, in society; hats bestowed upon two Cardinals by; disappointment of, in the Republic; rivalry between Gambetta and; Queen Victoria's meeting with; feelings of regard for one another held by M. Waddington and, Grévy, Madame; unknown to society upon husband's election to presidency; first reception held by; question of necessity of presence of, at the Elysée; receptions held by; author's last visit to; Grévy, Mademoiselle, at Prince Hohenlohe's reception.

Halanzier, director of the Grand Opera. Hatzfeldt, Count, story of Liszt and; personal charm of, Hélène d'Orléans, Princess, love affair of Duke of Clarence and. Hoare, Sir Henry. Hohenlohe, Prince, German ambassador to France; pleasant manners of; at Berlin Congress; reception given to President Grévy by; reports by, concerning feeling in Germany over French radicalism. Hohenlohe, Princess, striking personality of; at Madame Grévy's first reception. Holland, Lady. Holland House, London, 236. Hôtel de Ville, ball at the, in 1878. Houghton, Lord. Humbert, King.

Ignatieff, General. Isabella, Queen, at Marshal de MacMahon's reception; Description of, and account of audience given author by; Dinner given Marshal and Madame de MacMahon by. Italians, author's doubts concerning.

Japanese, reported intelligence of. Jockey Club, Paris, political talk at the.

Karolyi, at Berlin Congress. Kellogg, Clara Louise, with the Waddingtons. King, General Rufus. Kruft, chef du matériel at Quai d'Orsay.

Lafayette, Marquis de, interest of American visitors in things relating to. Lasteyrie, Count de. Layard, Sir Henry. Leo XIII, election of. Liszt, meetings with, and stories of. Longchamp, review of Paris garrison at. Lord Mayor of London at the Grand Opera, Paris. Louis Philippe, memories of. Lutteroth, M., uncle of M. Waddington; information concerning Royalist circles from; interesting friends of. Luxembourg, Palace of the; gardens of the. Lyons, Lord, lesson in diplomatic politeness from; ball given by, during exposition year; at Madame Grévy's first reception; memories of Washington ministry by.

MacMahon, Fabrice de. MacMahon, Marshal de, President of French Republic; at the Longchamp review; receptions of, at Versailles; attitude of, toward cabinet of 1876; official dinner given by, to diplomatic corps and the Government; dismissal of cabinet by (May 16,1877); dislike of, for the Republic and the Republicans; official receptions and dinners of; Mrs. Grant and; visits M. Waddington at Deauville; dislike of, for office of president; preference of, for his military title; fete given by, at Versailles during exposition year; resignation of; delight at resumption of private life. MacMahon, Maréchale de, description of visit to; visit to Madame Waddington from, upon dismissal of cabinet; chilly attitude of, toward things Republican. Madeleine, service at the, for King Victor Emmanuel. Marguerite de Nemours, Princesse, author's visit to. Marquis, anecdotes of a dictatorial. Marriages, made at the Conservatoire or the Opéra Comique; Favourable criticism of arranged. Martin, Henri, senator of the Aisne. Mathilde, Princesse, meeting with; salon of. Mendes Leal, Portuguese minister. Molins, Marquise, Spanish ambassadress. Mollard, Introducteur des Ambassadeurs. Mommsen, Theodor. Morny, Duc de, a founder of Deauville; famous entertainments of. Morocco, mission from. Murat, Princess Anna (Duchesse de Mouchy).

Napoleon III, Emperor, at Compiègne, Napoleon's tomb, interest of American visitors in. National Assembly, description of sittings of. New Year's day reception at the President's. Ney, Marshal, execution of, recalled. Nuns, the life of.

Oliffe, Sir Joseph, a founder of Deauville. Opera Comique, making of marriages at the; artists of the. Opposition leader, joys of position of, Orléans, Due d', at Countess de Ségur's salon, Orléans family, members of, at official reception given by the Waddingtons; members of, at Lord Lyons's ball. Orloff, Prince, Russian ambassador; attractive personality of; at Prince Hohenlohe's reception to President Grévy,