VOLUME II

MY FIRST SUMMER IN THE SIERRA

BY

JOHN MUIR

BOSTON AND NEW YORK

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

1917

COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY JOHN MUIR

COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

TO

THE SIERRA CLUB OF CALIFORNIA

FAITHFUL DEFENDER OF THE PEOPLE’S PLAYGROUNDS

CONTENTS

I. THROUGH THE FOOTHILLS WITH A FLOCK OF SHEEP 3

II. IN CAMP ON THE NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED 32

III. A BREAD FAMINE 75

IV. TO THE HIGH MOUNTAINS 86

V. THE YOSEMITE 115

VI. MOUNT HOFFMAN AND LAKE TENAYA 149

VII. A STRANGE EXPERIENCE 178

VIII. THE MONO TRAIL 195

IX. BLOODY CA—ON AND MONO LAKE 214

X. THE TUOLUMNE CAMP 232

XI. BACK TO THE LOWLANDS 254

INDEX 265

ILLUSTRATIONS

THE YOSEMITE FALLS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK _Frontispiece_

The total height of the three falls is 2600 feet. The upper fall is about 1600 feet, and the lower about 400 feet. Mr. Muir was probably the only man who ever looked down into the heart of the fall from the narrow ledge of rocks near the top.

_From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_

SHEEP IN THE MOUNTAINS 8

Since the establishment of the Yosemite National Park the pasturing of sheep has not been allowed within its boundaries, and as a result the grasses and wild flowers have recovered very much of their former luxuriance. The flock of sheep here photographed were feeding near Alger Lake on the slope of Blacktop Mountain, at an altitude of about 10,000 feet and just beyond the eastern boundary of the Park.

_From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason_

A SILVER FIR, OR RED FIR (_Abies magnifica_) 90

This tree was found in an extensive forest of red fir above the Middle Fork of King’s River. It was estimated to be about 250 feet high. Mr. Muir, on being shown the photograph, remarked that it was one of the finest and most mature specimens of the red fir that he had ever seen.

_From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason_

THE NORTH AND SOUTH DOMES 122

The great rock on the right is the South Dome, commonly called the Half-Dome, according to Mr. Muir “the most beautiful and most sublime of all the Yosemite rocks.” The one on the left is the North Dome, while in the center is the Washington Column.

_From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_

CATHEDRAL PEAK 154

This view was taken from a point on the Sunrise Trail just south of the Peak, on a day when the “cloud mountains” so inspiring to Mr. Muir were much in evidence.

_From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason_

THE VERNAL FALLS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 182

_From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_

THE HAPPY ISLES, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 190

This is the main stream of the Merced River after passing over the Nevada and Vernal Falls and receiving the Illilouette tributary.

_From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_

THE THREE BROTHERS, YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 208

The highest rock, called Eagle Point, is 7900 feet above the sea, and 3900 feet above the floor of the valley.

_From a photograph by Charles S. Olcott_

MAP OF THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 264

_From the United States Geological Survey_

FROM SKETCHES MADE BY THE AUTHOR IN 1869

HORSESHOE BEND, MERCED RIVER 14

ON SECOND BENCH. EDGE OF THE MAIN FOREST BELT, ABOVE COULTERVILLE, NEAR GREELEY’S MILL 14

CAMP, NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED 38

MOUNTAIN LIVE OAK (_Quercus chrysolepis_), EIGHT FEET IN DIAMETER 38

SUGAR PINE 50

DOUGLAS SQUIRREL OBSERVING BROTHER MAN 68

DIVIDE BETWEEN THE TUOLUMNE AND THE MERCED, BELOW HAZEL GREEN 86

TRACK OF SINGING DANCING GRASSHOPPER IN THE AIR OVER NORTH DOME 140

ABIES MAGNIFICA (MOUNT CLARK, TOP OF SOUTH DOME, MOUNT STARR KING) 142

ILLUSTRATING GROWTH OF NEW PINE FROM BRANCH BELOW THE BREAK OF AXIS OF SNOW-CRUSHED TREE 144

APPROACH OF DOME CREEK TO YOSEMITE 150

JUNIPERS IN TENAYA CA—ON 164

VIEW OF TENAYA LAKE SHOWING CATHEDRAL PEAK 196

ONE OF THE TRIBUTARY FOUNTAINS OF THE TUOLUMNE CA—ON WATERS, ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE HOFFMAN RANGE 196

GLACIER MEADOW, ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE TUOLUMNE, 9500 FEET ABOVE THE SEA 204

MONO LAKE AND VOLCANIC CONES, LOOKING SOUTH 228

HIGHEST MONO VOLCANIC CONES (NEAR VIEW) 228

ONE OF THE HIGHEST MOUNT RITTER FOUNTAINS 240

GLACIER MEADOW STREWN WITH MORAINE BOULDERS, 10,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA (NEAR MOUNT DANA) 248

FRONT OF CATHEDRAL PEAK 248

VIEW OF UPPER TUOLUMNE VALLEY 252

MY FIRST SUMMER IN THE SIERRA