Part 3

The pure pink gills running considerably down the ringless stem, and the fresh and fragrant smell of meal, at once distinguish this species from all others. It grows in and near woods in the autumn, evidently giving a preference to the open places and borders; the solid stem and the very fleshy top are white, or some shade of very pale grey. Dr. Badham and some other authors refer to our plant under the name of _A. orcellus_, and some botanists consider the true “orcellus” and the true “prunulus” distinct but closely allied species. There is also a vexatious confusion between this species and fig. 19, St. George’s Mushroom (_A. gambosus_). This latter is a spring plant, and is frequently and erroneously called _A. prunulus_. They have no characters in common, and, in fact, more distinct Agarics do not exist.

Returning to the true Plum Mushroom (fig. 15), I have only to say that, however prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour; and whether broiled, stewed, or however prepared, it is a most delicious morsel. I have never seen it in very large quantities; it is scattered over the woods north of London, but not in profusion.

=Curled Helvella.= Fig. 16.

(_Helvella crispa._) 1673.

This singular-looking plant is nearly allied to the true Morel, and closely resembles it in flavour. It is hardly possible to mistake it for any other species, unless it be the next, which has a black top, and is rarer (_H. lacunosa_), 1674, and also esculent. _H. crispa_ generally grows on shady banks, or on the edges of pastures and lawns, and amongst dead leaves, under the shade of trees. I have only once seen it near London, and that was in the neighbourhood of Caen Wood, Hampstead; sometimes, however, I have found it in immense quantities (numbering hundreds of specimens) on rich sloping banks. The stem is full of wrinkles and holes, and the top lobed and deflexed in a very singular and irregular manner.

If stewed slowly and with care, this species will prove very pleasant eating, and will exude a delicious gravy. The flesh is firm and crisp, and greatly resembles the Morel. It may be easily dried for future use in a current of air, or in a dry place; in this state, specimens are at times kept threaded on strings, ready to impart their truly delicious flavour to stews and gravies. (See description of fig. 20.)

I once saw a batch of specimens which had suddenly sprung up close to some ants’ nests, and thousands of the ants were swarming over and examining the fungi, and running in and out of the holes in the stems in the most amusing manner.

=Oyster Mushroom.= Fig. 17.

(_Agaricus_ [_Pleurotus_] _ostreatus._) 179.

I have always found this far from uncommon species growing on old _elm_ trunks, although it is not at all particular as to its habitat, often appearing on laburnum, apple, ash, &c. It usually grows in large masses, one plant above another, forming a very handsome object on old tree-stems. The gills _and spores are white_, the former running down the stem, and the top dingy—sometimes nearly white; at others, full brown. An allied species, _A. euosmus_, with pale lilac spores, and a scent like that of Tarragon (_Artemisia dracunculus_), is “not esculent,” and is said to grow in the spring. I commonly find the former growing in spring, although it is said usually to grow late in the autumn, or winter.

Perhaps a taste for this species has to be acquired; but though it is without doubt edible, I have never thought well of it. The flesh possesses a certain amount of firmness, and produces an abundant and savoury juice; but I am inclined to place it as the species of least value for culinary purposes. It has, however, been highly recommended by some; and a dish of this species stewed before a very hot fire has proved as enjoyable and nourishing “as half a pound of fresh meat.” Tastes are allowed to differ; and perhaps the opinion of some of my readers may differ from mine if they try this species, which, from its peculiar appearance, there is little chance of mistaking for any other.

=Lilac-stemmed Mushroom.= Fig. 18.

(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _personatus._) 65.

Although this plant at times appears in pastures near London, it is not very common. It is very nearly allied to and extremely like the next species (fig. 19), from which it is principally distinguished by its growing in the autumn, and having a lilac band round the upper part of the stem. This lilac stain, however, is not invariably present; and a species that is altogether (stem and top too) lilac, or full violet, should be avoided (_A. nudus_). The Purple Cobweb-Mushroom (fig. 12) is easily distinguished by its rust of iron gills. In _Agaricus personatus_ they are white—sometimes dirty white; the solid ringless stem is rather rough; and the top is smooth, and exceedingly firm and fleshy; the plant grows late in the autumn, on downs, and in rich, short pastures.

Opinions vary a little regarding the value of this species for gastronomic purposes; but I think, if young plants are gathered, in _dry weather_, and carefully broiled or stewed, few fungi will prove more truly delicious. From my own experience, I have the highest opinion of it; but the plant readily absorbs moisture, and during wet weather is heavy and of little worth.

As these pages are passing through the press, my friend, Mr. Thomas Moore, of the Botanic Garden, Chelsea, informs me that this autumn (1874) he saw large quantities of _A. personatus_ exposed for sale in the markets of Nottingham, under the name of “blue-bottoms,” the vendors stating the fungus to be “as good as mushrooms.”

=St. George’s Mushroom.= Fig. 19.

(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _gambosus._) 62.

The St. George’s Mushroom is fit for any saint in the calendar. It comes up in the spring, near St. George’s Day, when few other species are to be found. It is in every part almost white, or with a slight inclination to ochre; but sometimes the colour is a little fuller. The stem and top are singularly firm, fleshy, and solid, and the latter, in hot weather is inclined to split. It grows in rings, on rich lawns and pastures, and has a strong, fragrant, enticing odour.

It is a little like _A. crustuliniformis_ (fig. 24, Poisonous Sheet), which, however, differs in various ways, principally in discharging _brown spores_ instead of _white_, as in _A. gambosus_. The poisonous plant has an odour like the flowers of laurel, and _grows in woods in the autumn_.

Few species are more substantial and delightful for the table. I (with many others) look upon it with unusual favour, as one of the rarest delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. Like the last, it is absorbent of water, and should be gathered in dry weather. I think it is local, and certainly uncommon near London.

It is sometimes erroneously referred to under the name of _A. prunulus_.

=Edible Morel.= Fig. 20.

(_Morchella esculenta._) 1668.

I know a wood in Bedfordshire called “Morel Wood,” where, in the spring, this rare and delicious fungus _abounds_. It is generally far from common, and occurs, perhaps, in greater abundance in the south of England. It appears, however, to be pretty well known and in general request amongst housewives, north and south, for the truly exquisite flavour it imparts to gravies and made dishes; and being readily dried, it can be kept for immediate use at any season of the year. The figure shows exactly what the Morel is like; the honeycombed pitted top is _hollow_, and the almost smooth stem partly so. It yields a delicious ketchup; and the hollow top, well stuffed with minced veal, and dressed between slices of bacon, is a dish of rare and exquisite flavour.

This notice of the Morel would not be complete without reference to the “Giant Morel” (_Morchella crassipes_) found a few years ago in this country, for the first time, by my friend Miss Lott, of Barton Hall, South Devon. This species, which attains enormous dimensions, is not quite so crisp or rapidly dried as the last, but, as an object of food, is fully as exquisite for flavouring sauces, and other purposes.

=Liver Fungus.= Fig. 21.

(_Fistulina hepatica._) 716.

This singular fungus is not always _common_. It generally grows on the trunks of old oaks. I have seen it in immense quantities on the ancient oaks of Sherwood Forest, whilst at times oak districts appear to be singularly free from its presence. It externally resembles a very large tongue or a huge piece of liver lolling out from the tree, and when incised a red juice plentifully exudes. It is truly “a vegetable beefsteak,” for the taste resembles meat in a remarkable manner. A good way of preparing it is to cut it up in thin slices and broil it with a steak, and dress with butter, salt, and pepper. There is a slight but very perceptible _acid_ flavour with it, which gives considerable zest and piquancy to a dish of the “vegetable beefsteak,” as it is called, rendering it a “treat for an epicure.”

It rarely grows on any tree but the oak, but I have seen it on the ash, beech, and other trees.

=Spine-bearing Mushroom.= Fig. 22.

(_Hydnum repandum._) 718.

There is little fear of mistaking this for any other species, as the awl-shaped spines on the under surface are a characteristic feature of the small genus, _Hydnum_. All the species of any size enjoy a good character; _Hydnum repandum_ being the only _common_ plant of the genus.

It is sometimes most abundant in the few woody places remaining at the north of London, and may often be found on shady roadsides in the humid weather of autumn.

Its taste is slightly pungent when uncooked; but after being submitted to the culinary processes of the kitchen, it affords a charming addition to the table. Its flesh is very firm and delicious; yet, being somewhat dry (like fig. 11), the addition of some sauce or gravy lends an additional relish to the stew.

The colour of the fungus is exactly like that of a cracknel; the smooth top is frequently irregular, and the pure solid stem often out of the centre. The top sometimes partakes of a warmer, almost sienna, colouring.

=Viscid White Mushroom.= Fig. 23.

(_Hygrophorus virgineus._) 470.

This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom. It is essentially waxy, and feels and looks precisely as if made of the purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and the gills (singularly distant from each other) run far down the stem; it changes colour a little when getting old, at which time it is unfit for culinary purposes.

A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be obtained when other species are not to be had.

Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably _H. pratensis_ and _H. niveus_; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has eaten, and speaks favourably of, _H. psittacinus_—a highly ornamental yellow species, with a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich pastures (and generally _said_ to be very suspicious).

=Clouded Mushroom.= Fig. 24.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _nebularis._) 78.

Common (in certain places), but rare near London. This species appears late in the autumn and generally grows on dead leaves in moist places, principally on the borders of woods. The top is lead-colour or grey, at first _clouded_ grey,—hence its name; the stem is stout, elastic, and striate, with the _white_ gills running considerably down the ringless stem, in the manner shown in the drawing.

The gastronomic excellences of the species are well known. When gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when cooked, the firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and palatable taste.

=Giant Puff-ball.= Fig. 25.

(_Lycoperdon giganteum._) 930.

This species of puff-ball is not always a “giant,” and may frequently be found no larger than an apple. It is somewhat local, and I think only attains gigantic proportions in certain situations. I have, for instance, seen specimens growing in rich pastures in Nottinghamshire, so much larger than the specimen figured that the latter would appear a perfect _dwarf_ beside them. It may be found, in some of the meadows near Highgate and Hampstead, quite as big as our figure; but indeed there is little fear of a mistake, if attention is paid to the smooth skin,—like white kid leather.

Young specimens must be chosen for cooking, such as are firm and snow-white, inside and out; for when the fungus is getting ripe and yellowish, and dusty inside, or when it is saturated with rain and the interior is a mass of yellow decomposition, of course it must be rejected.

It is known by its large size, its pure white colour, and its _smooth skin_.

To cook this species satisfactorily and well, cut the specimens up into slices of half an inch in thickness, remove the skin or bark, dip the slices into yolk of egg, and fry in fresh butter. It will then eat with a delicate and delicious flavour; or served with jam or jelly it is an excellent substitute for pastry.

=Pear-Milk Mushroom.= Fig. 26.

(_Lactarius volemum._) 508.

This species is recognized by its very rich coloration, firm flesh, mild taste, white milk (changing to a dull dark umber-colour where the plant is bruised or broken), white gills becoming warm yellow-buff, and the full sienna top; the stem is solid, and the plant grows in woods.

The taste of this plant, when fried, has aptly been compared to lamb’s kidney, and resembles in flavour the only other edible Lactarius—viz. _L. deliciosus_, fig. 11. It is a rare species in this country.

=White Fir-wood Mushroom.= Fig. 27.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _dealbatus._) 80.

This pretty little fungus commonly grows in, and about the neighbourhood of, fir plantations, but will occasionally come up elsewhere. Its top is white, smooth, and _exceedingly like ivory_. It is shining, waved, fleshy, and inclined to be irregular; the gills are thin, white, and run down the stem.

When clean, young, and fresh specimens are broiled with butter, it is a delicacy of the very highest degree,—at once tender, juicy, and delightful. Its charming flavour is exceeded by very few other fungi.

Several allied species are very good, notably _Agaricus odorus_, which exhales a most delicious odour of melilot.

I used to eat all sorts of things for this species before I properly knew it, and never felt the worse for the mistakes I made. It would be useless to enumerate them all here, without figures and descriptions, but one was the common _Agaricus subpulverulentus_.

=Fairy-ring Champignon.= Fig. 28.

(_Marasmius oreades._) 553.

If possible, this species is better than the last, and no recommendation can be too strong for it. The exquisitely rich and delicious flavour of this plant when broiled with butter must be tasted to be understood. It is firmer than the meadow mushroom, and, whilst having its peculiar aroma, it possesses it in a concentrated form. Even Mr. Berkeley, who would be the last man in the world to subscribe to a doubtful species, says, “_it is the very best of all our fungi_.” It may be pickled, used for ketchup, or dried for future use.

_Marasmius oreades_ grows in rings in short pastures, on downs, and by roadsides everywhere (_but never in woods_). It is somewhat tough, the solid stem particularly so, the gills wide apart, and cream-coloured.

This species has no downy hairs at the base of the stem. Certain other species of _Marasmius_, frequently found growing on dead leaves in woods, and possessing this hairy down, are to be avoided. There is a poisonous plant sometimes found in similar situations, and often _with_ the Fairy-Ring Champignon (_M. urens_), fig. 30, Poisonous Sheet. I once tested its qualities (by accident). See description.

=Truffle.= Fig. 29.

(_Tuber æstivum._) 1916.

The truffle is a subterranean fungus, invariably found under trees, often just appearing above the surface of the ground, and occasionally exposed for sale in our markets, where it will realize at times as much as 5_s._ per pound. The truffle is esteemed by many as the most delicious object of food in the whole vegetable kingdom, and by others it is looked upon with aversion or positive disgust. The odour is very powerful, and is relished by some individuals, and very much disliked by others. It is looked upon as a great delicacy boiled, or simply roasted in hot ashes.

Besides the truffle sold in Covent Garden Market, there are many other species found in this country, of various forms and qualities. _T. æstivum_ varies much in size, is irregular in shape, black, rough, and warted.

I must confess that, at first, I regarded the truffle with loathing; but now I have learned to greatly esteem it. It makes a capital ingredient for gravies, stuffings, and meat pies.

It is frequently referred to under the name of _T. cibarium_.

POISONOUS MUSHROOMS.

=Bundled Stump-mushroom.= Fig. 1.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hypholoma_] _fascicularis._) 331.

This species occurs everywhere at the bases of old stumps, always in groups. The stem is hollow, and the gills are greenish and sub-deliquescent. There is a heavy odour attached to it, and the taste is bitter and repulsive.

=Red Juice-Mushroom.= Fig. 2.

(_Hygrophorus conicus._) 482.

This truly handsome fungus is common in pastures and roadsides. It turns purple-black when bruised, broken, or old, and it has a strong and very forbidding odour.

It is of a succulent substance, and is not unfrequently a brilliant yellow or deep orange, in place of crimson or scarlet.

=Trellised Clathrus.= Fig. 3.

(_Clathrus cancellatus._) 917.

I am indebted to the late Mrs. Gulson, of Eastcliff, near Teignmouth, Devon, for the original plant from which this figure was taken. It is of extreme beauty and rarity, seldom occurring in this country, but common enough in the south of Europe.

The fetor exhaled from this species is highly disagreeable, and can be compared with nothing but itself. It is so horribly repulsive and loathsome as to make a mere examination of the plant a matter of the greatest difficulty. In the young state the odour is less strong, or altogether absent.

=Fetid Leather-fungus.= Fig. 4.

(_Thelephora palmata._) 760.

This soft fungus bears a distant resemblance to some species of Clavaria. It is uncommon, grows upon the ground, and possesses a very disagreeable odour.

=Olive-gilled Mushroom.= Fig. 5.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hypholoma_] _sublateritius._) 328.

This plant is allied to fig. 1, and, like it, grows upon old stumps in woods, and has, too, a disagreeable smell.

=Astringent Mushroom.= Fig. 6.

(_Panus stypticus._) 582.

Is very common on old dead trees and stumps in woods, and had better be avoided.

=Matrix-bearing Mushroom.= Fig. 7.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _Phalloides._) 2.

Common everywhere in woods; this handsome Agaric is known to be highly dangerous. It is allied to fig. 8, as will be seen by glancing at the figures.

All parts are nearly white, excepting the top, which generally takes some pale shade of subdued yellow or green.

=Poisonous Spring Mushroom.= Fig. 8.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _vernus._) 1.

Belonging to a very suspicious group, this Agaric is supposed to be very poisonous. It grows in woods, _in the spring_, and is white in all its parts.

It is rare, but I have found it close to London.

=Magpie Mushroom.= Fig. 9.

(_Coprinus picaceus._) 379.

This, too, is equally rare, though in some places, as in the Herefordshire woods, it is by no means infrequent. It is a very handsome but suspicious-looking plant, with the top broken up into large patches of black and white. It grows on roadsides, and has a disagreeable odour.

=Gloomy Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 10.

(_Boletus luridus._) 607.

This is one of the handsomest ornaments of our woods and woody places. The prevailing tint is umber, relieved on the under surface by bright red, sometimes approaching crimson, or even vermilion; when broken or bruised it rapidly changes colour to blue. It is very common in all places where there are trees, and often comes up early in the year. It is probably more or less poisonous, though I have known it to be eaten without _fatal_ effects.

Mr. Penrose once found a specimen as large as a milking-stool, exactly three feet in circumference.

=Griping Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 11.

(_Lactarius torminosus._) 488.

This dangerous fungus is at once known by the hairy margin of the top, which is rolled inwards. The milk that exudes when the plant is broken is acrid and biting, and does not change colour as does fig. 11, Edible Sheet, and figs. 20 and 28, Poisonous Sheet.

Though said to be common, I think it is somewhat rare; it now and then occurs in solitary specimens in the woods and open places near London.

=Ruddy Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 12.

(_Lactarius rufus._) 512.

This is one of the most deadly of all British fungi, and generally grows in fir woods; the white milk is singularly acrid and corrosive, which is perhaps its best distinguishing mark. It bears some resemblance to fig. 26, Edible Sheet, but the milk of the _L. volemum_ is mild, and changes colour to dark brown when exposed to the action of the air; whilst in _L. rufus_ it remains white, and the milk is highly pungent.

=Fly Mushroom.= Fig. 13.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _muscarius._) 3.

Few fungi can exceed this well-known species in beauty. It is somewhat local, and loves birch woods, where it sometimes makes the very ground almost scarlet with its profuse growth. Sometimes the top is deep yellow or orange, but it is usually brilliant scarlet; if the top skin is stripped off, the flesh just beneath is seen to be bright yellow, and the rest of the flesh white. It is allied to fig. 1, Edible Sheet, but the flesh of the latter is not yellow under the skin; and _A. rubescens turns reddish_ in every part as soon as bruised or broken.

=Poisonous Forest Mushroom.= Fig. 14.

(_Agaricus_ [_Entoloma_] _sinuatus._) 212.

Without doubt, this is a very poisonous plant, for I once cooked a very small piece of a specimen for luncheon, and was very nearly poisoned to death thereby.

I did not eat a twentieth part of the specimen gathered—I am sure not so much as a quarter of an ounce—and the taste was by no means disagreeable. But mark the result. (It must be borne in mind, too, that though I fell so dangerously ill, I never till the last moment _suspected the fungus_. Such a confirmed toadstool-eater was I, that I laid my symptoms to anything but the true cause.)

About a quarter of an hour after luncheon _I left home_, and was immediately overtaken by a strange nervous, gloomy, low-spirited feeling quite new to me. Soon a severe headache added its charms to my feelings, and then swimming of the brain commenced, with violent pains in the stomach.

I had now great difficulty to keep upon my legs at all; my senses all appeared leaving me, and every object appeared to be moving with _death-like stillness_ from side to side, up and down, or round and round.