Part 14

The French lay great stress upon two essentials in making soup successfully. First, it must not go below the boiling point, just a gentle bubbling, and, second, after once started, no water should be added. In making soup always use cold water to start with. Do not use salt or any seasoning, and heat slowly, keeping the pot closely covered.

Protein, which is the chief constituent of meat, is drawn into the liquid, making it very nutritious. Rapid boiling destroys the fine aroma and volatile oils, which escape in the steam.

Soups are divided into three classes: First, stock; second, cream; third, fruit soups.

Soups made from meat and bone are called stock; those without stock are called cream, such as cream vegetable, clam and oyster soups, and, lastly, those made from meat and bones, cooked by long and slow boiling, which dissolves the soluble elements of the meat and bones into the water and makes a very rich soup.

THE STOCK POT

This should be a deep pot or kettle with a tight-fitting lid. This is important, so that none of the steam may be lost by evaporation. The steam contains the aroma or fine volatile oil and essentials which pass into the air. In a fairly large family little meat need be purchased for the stock pot if the housewife insists that all portions of bone and trimming be sent with the purchased meat. The French women look with horror on the American women leaving all the scrap and trimming to the butcher.

TO MAKE THE STOCK

A soup bone from the shin, beef, which is full of nutriment, will have nearly one-half pound of meat on it. Take one pound of the scrag end of the neck of veal and four quarts of water. Wash the bones and add the cold water and bring slowly to a boil. Skim and then cover closely and cook for four hours. By this time the meat will have fallen from the bones. Strain and set aside to cool. Let stand overnight. This is best.

Then remove all fat from the top. This stock is the basis of all soups, sauces and gravies. It is rich in mineral matter and gelatine. The meat can be taken from the bones and run through the food chopper and used for meat loaf, croquettes and meat biscuits or sausage, and it will make mighty tasty hash when combined with potatoes and onions for breakfast.

You now have a delicious and nutritious broth, without seasoning of any kind, which will keep in cold weather four or five days. In warm weather it must be returned every second day to the pot, brought to a boil and skimmed and then left to cool and finally put in the ice box. Small portions of meat, ham, any trimming and bones that have accumulated may be added. Chicken feet, scalded in boiling water to loosen the outer skin, which must be peeled off, together with the giblets of fowl, may be added to the stock pot. Seasoning and the addition of vegetables cause it to sour. Many varieties of soup are possible with the use of this stock.

OYSTER GUMBO

Mince two medium-sized onions very fine and then place in a saucepan and add

One pint of hot water, One pint of oyster liquid, One pint of milk.

Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now add

One-half cup of flour dissolved in One-half cup of milk.

Stir well until it reaches the boiling point, and then add

Twenty-five oysters, One tablespoon of file (gumbo powder), One ounce of butter.

Cook for five minutes and then pour the gumbo into a tureen and add three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley. File, or gumbo powder, is made by the Choxtaw Indians from young sassafras leaves. The Indians gather the leaves, spread them upon the bark to dry and then grind them into a fine powder, put it through a fine sieve and then pack it into pouches or jars. It is sold in the French markets in New Orleans and in all high-class importing groceries. The Indians use the sassafras both medicinally and in cookery, and the Creoles quickly discovered this and appreciated it when making their famous gumbo or file.

VEGETABLE SOUP

One pint of stock, one cup of tomato pulp, made by scalding the peeling of tomatoes, or the canned tomatoes, may be used, and

One-half cup of diced potatoes, One-half cup of mixed vegetables; cabbage, turnips and peas, may be added One-half carrot cut in dice, One tablespoon of parsley, Two tablespoons of flour, Salt and pepper to taste, Portion of bunch of potherbs.

Take a bunch of potherbs, divide into small bunches and tie each with a string and then use one of these in the vegetable soup. Put the remainder of the herbs in a fruit jar until needed again.

Put the herbs in the stock, add the tomatoes and let simmer. Cook the vegetables in one pint of water until tender and then add water and all to the stock and add the seasoning and flour, mixed with a little cold water, and cook for five minutes.

TO MAKE NOODLES

One egg, One tablespoon of water, One-half teaspoon of salt.

Beat together until well mixed and then add sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Knead until elastic--about two minutes--and then roll out on a pastry board until as thin as paper, dusting the board lightly with flour to prevent sticking. Permit it to stand for fifteen minutes to dry and then cut into strings, thick and thin. Do this by rolling up loosely, like a jelly roll, and then cut. Lay on a dish to dry. When thoroughly dry they may be kept in a fruit jar. Part of the paste may be stamped with small vegetable cutters and cooked in the soup same as the noodles.

Vegetables cut in fancy shapes, macaroni cut in small rings, hard-boiled eggs in slices, cheese balls, slices of lemon, also rice and barley, may be added to the soup.

To make brown coloring: One-half cup of sugar cooked ten minutes in an iron pan until burned black; then add one-half cupful of water. Let come to a boil and then strain and bottle for use.

The principal points to keep in mind when making soup are:

First, draw out all of the juice and soluble flavors into the water.

Second, retain that which we have drawn out by using a pot with a tight-fitting lid.

Third, use cold water with which to extract meat juices and flavors.

Fourth, long, slow cooking.

Fifth, flavoring and vegetables added after making stock prevent its souring quickly.

Sixth, do not use stock pot for other than it is intended. Care and accurate judgment and measuring will give successful results.

If most of the work is done in the morning while attending to the kitchen duties, the stock-making will take little of your time. Delicious gravies may be made by using stock instead of water.

CLEAR SOUP

Use two tablespoons of fat and fry one onion until brown. Add two tablespoons of flour and brown well and then pour in one pint of stock and cook for five minutes, and then add seasoning, salt and pepper to taste. Strain into a soup tureen and sprinkle with one tablespoon of finely chopped parsley. Serve with bread cut in finger lengths and toasted.

CELERY PUREE

Use one pint of diced celery and cook in one cup of cold water until tender and then put through a sieve and add one cup of stock,

One cup of milk, Two tablespoons of flour mixed with a little milk, Seasoning, Salt and pepper, One tablespoon of chopped parsley and serve.

To the clear soup may be added macaroni, noodles or any vegetables. This is a good way to use left-over portions of vegetables that are too small to serve alone.

FISH SOUP

Use six slices of cod, hake or flounder. Mince four onions very fine and then place the onions in a saucepan with

Three tablespoons of cooking oil.

Cook until tender, but not brown; then add

One cup of tomatoes rubbed through a fine sieve, One bunch of potherbs, Three pints of water.

Bring to a boil and cook slowly for twenty minutes and then add the fish. Cook gently for thirty minutes and then add

Six tablespoons of flour dissolved in One-half cup of water, One and one-half teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, Juice of one lemon, Grated rind of one-quarter lemon.

Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now lift the fish on slices of nicely toasted bread and strain over this the soup. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and one tablespoon of grated cheese.

FISH SOUPS

The bouillabaisse of France and New Orleans is most delectable and may well be served upon our tables frequently. The French and our Southern cooking, especially the creoles, excel in the preparation of delicious cream soups and purees. They are made entirely from vegetables. These good folk have preserved an old-world custom; namely, the daily plate of soup. The creoles have introduced a new variety of their own called gumbo.

Vegetables and milk are the basis for these soups. The vegetables are cooked in water and then rubbed through a sieve. Equal parts of milk are added and then thickened slightly and seasoned. When it is desired to give additional food value, eggs may be added.

OYSTER BROTH

Drain twenty-four oysters, saving the liquid. Wash and carefully look over the oysters to free from bits of shell. Chop fine and place in saucepan and measure the oyster liquid, adding sufficient water to make two cups. Simmer slowly for fifteen minutes. Let boil up once. Strain, season to taste with salt, pepper and then the broth is ready to serve. Equally good hot or cold.

PUREE OF OYSTER

Prepare two cups of thin cream sauce and add

Twenty-five oysters, chopped fine, One and one-half cups of oyster liquid, One tablespoon of grated onion.

Simmer slowly for twenty minutes and then bring to a scalding point. Strain, season to taste with salt and pepper, adding two tablespoons of finely minced parsley.

Clams may be used to replace the oysters.

TO PREPARE A STEW

Wash and look over the twenty-five stewing oysters carefully to free them from bits of shell. Place in small stewing pan and heat until the edges begin to curl. Then add

Three cups of scalding milk, Two tablespoons of butter, One teaspoon of salt, One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Let the mixture come to the scalding point and then remove at once and serve.

Clams may be used to replace the oysters.

FISH SOUP

One red beet, Three medium-sized onions, One carrot, Three leeks, Six branches of parsley, One and one-half cups of finely chopped cabbage.

Chop fine and then place in a saucepan and add two cups of cold water. Cook gently until the vegetables are very soft and then add

Three cups of fish stock.

Stock made by cooking the head, fins and bones of one and one-half pounds of fish. Season with

Two teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, Juice of one-half lemon, Two tablespoons of butter.

Simmer slowly for fifteen minutes and then place the prepared fish in a tureen and pour over the broth. Sprinkle with paprika and finely chopped parsley and then serve at once.

DEVILED CRABS

Make a cream sauce by placing in a saucepan

One cup of milk, Five level tablespoons of flour.

Stir with a wire spoon or fork until the flour is dissolved in the milk and then bring to a boil. Stir constantly and cook for five minutes after it reaches the boiling point. Then add

One cup of crab meat, One tablespoon of grated onion, One tablespoon of finely minced parsley, One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, One and one-half teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, One-half teaspoon of mustard.

Mix thoroughly and then fill into the crab shells, filling the shell slightly above the level. Dust lightly with flour and then brush with beaten egg and cover with fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. The crabs may be prepared earlier in the day and then reheated for serving.

CELERY SOUP

Wash and thoroughly cleanse the celery and then chop fine. Place one pint of finely chopped celery in a saucepan and add three cups of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until the celery is very soft. Rub through a fine sieve and then measure, and add

One cup of milk, Two tablespoons of flour.

to every cup of the celery puree. Dissolve the flour in cold milk and then add the celery puree. Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Season, adding one teaspoon of butter for flavoring. A faggot of soup herbs may be added to the celery if desired.

CREAM SOUPS

Cream soups are a combination of vegetables, puree and milk. Almost all of the green vegetables will make delicious soups. Clean the vegetables well and then cut into small pieces. Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook slowly until tender and then mash well; then rub through a fine sieve. Use this vegetable stock with equal parts of milk to make the soup.

Carrots, peas, tomatoes, turnips, corn, beans, celery, lettuce, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, asparagus, all these afford a splendid variety.

Allow one level tablespoon of flour for thickening and dissolve the flour in cold water before adding. Bring quickly to a boil and then season. Add two tablespoons of butter for flavoring and then serve.

French, Swiss and Italians serve grated cheese and paprika with all cream soups.

CREAM OF ONION

Place two cups of thinly sliced onions in a saucepan and add one cup of cold water. Cook until soft and then rub through a fine sieve. Measure and return to the saucepan, and add one cup of milk for every cup of onion puree and two level tablespoons of flour to every cup of milk. Stir to dissolve the flour, then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Season, using salt and white pepper. Serve, then add one tablespoon of butter to every quart of cream soup. Croutons or toasted strips of bread make a delicious accompaniment to cream soups.

How to prepare croutons: Cut slices of bread into one-inch blocks and place in a baking sheet and bake until golden brown. Place in a tin box or jar and seal. When ready to use just reheat to crisp and then serve. Stale bread may be used for this purpose.

CREAM OF TOMATO

Place two cups of stewed tomatoes in a saucepan and add

One onion, chopped fine, One faggot of soup herbs, Pinch of cloves.

Cook gently for ten minutes and then run through a fine sieve. Now place in a saucepan

Two cups of milk, Five tablespoons of cornstarch.

Stir until dissolved and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add to prepared tomato, beating well to thoroughly mix. Now add

One teaspoon of salt, One-half teaspoon of pepper, One tablespoon of butter.

The making of the cream sauce and then adding the prepared tomato prevents curdling.

TOMATO PUREE

One pint of stewed tomatoes, Two onions chopped fine, One carrot cut in dice, One faggot of soup herbs, One pint of water.

Cook slowly until the vegetables are soft, rub through a sieve and then dissolve

Four tablespoons of cornstarch in Five tablespoons of cold water.

Add to the tomato sauce mixture with

Two tablespoons of butter, One and one-half teaspoons of salt, One-half teaspoon of pepper.

Cook slowly for ten minutes.

VEGETABLE PUREE

Pare and cut in dice

Six medium-sized turnips, Four medium-sized carrots, Six medium-sized onions.

Chop fine

One small head of cabbage, Four branches of celery, One bunch of potherbs, One teaspoon of thyme.

Place in a saucepan and add seven pints of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for two hours. Mash through a fine sieve and then return to the kettle and add

One-half cup of flour dissolved in One cup of milk, One and one-half tablespoons of salt, One teaspoon of pepper, Two well-beaten eggs, Butter, size of large walnut or one ounce.

Stir to thoroughly blend and then add one-quarter cup of finely chopped parsley. Serve with toast.

CABBAGE SOUP

Two quarts of water, Three onions, chopped fine, One faggot of soup herbs, Two slices of salt pork, cut into dice, One and one-quarter pounds of soup meat, with bone in it, Two and one-half cups of finely shredded cabbage.

Place in a saucepan and cook slowly for one and three-quarter hours. Now add two tablespoons of flour, dissolved in one-quarter cup of water, and season with

One tablespoon of salt, One teaspoon of pepper, One-half teaspoon of thyme.

CREAM OF CUCUMBER

Pare and grate one large cucumber, and then place in a saucepan and add

One cup of cold water, One tablespoon of grated onion.

Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Rub through a fine sieve and add

Four cups of milk, Six tablespoons of flour.

Stir to dissolve the flour, and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add

One teaspoon of salt, One-half teaspoon of paprika, One quarter green pepper, chopped fine, One tablespoon of butter,

Beat hard to mix.

CREAM OF CORN, SUPREME

Use a corn scraper and then score and scrape the pulp from four large ears of corn, and rub through a sieve into a saucepan. Now add

Four cups of milk, Six tablespoons of flour, One tablespoon of grated onion.

Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Season to taste and add

One tablespoon of butter, One tablespoon of finely minced parsley.

BAKED PRUNES

Wash and soak the prunes and then place in a casserole dish and add one-half pound of fruit,

Paring of lemon rind, Juice of one-half lemon, Four tablespoons of brown sugar and just barely enough of water to cover.

Bake for thirty minutes.

FRUITS

BAKED PEARS

Select pears of uniform size and then pare and cut in half. Place in a baking dish and add

One-half cup of syrup, One-half cup of water, One-quarter teaspoon of nutmeg.

Bake until pears are tender. Baste frequently with the syrup.

PEAR TARTS

Line pie tins or tart pans with plain pastry. Fill with stewed pears and then dust with cinnamon and bake in a slow oven. Top with fruit whip.

PEAR BREAD PUDDING

Place a layer of broken stale bread in the bottom of a well-greased pudding pan and then a layer of thinly-sliced pears. Season each layer of bread and pears slightly with nutmeg and cinnamon. When the dish is full pour over

One cup of syrup, One-half cup of brown sugar, One cup of water.

Stir until sugar is dissolved and then bake in a slow oven for one hour. Serve with custard sauce.

PEAR SAUCE

Pare and then cover with just enough water to cook. Cook until tender and then mash and put through a fine sieve or colander. Sweeten to taste, adding

Juice of one lemon.

One tablespoon of either cinnamon or nutmeg to each quart of the pear sauce. This may be used and served with roast duck, chicken, or as a side dish, and in pear shortcake and as a spread for bread and hot cakes.

BAKED PEARS AND CRANBERRIES

Pare eight pears and then cut in half, removing stems and seeds. Place in a baking dish with the cut side up. Sort over and wash one cup of cranberries and then add the berries to the pears and

One-half cup of raisins, One cup of syrup, One-half cup of brown sugar, One cup of water, One-quarter teaspoon of nutmeg.

Bake in a slow oven until the pears are soft.

NOTE.--This dish may be cooked upon the top of the stove in a saucepan.

DRIED FRUIT

Oranges and grapefruit are high-priced and the dried fruits may be substituted to advantage. If these fruits are nicely prepared, the family will hardly be able to distinguish between them and the fresh fruit.

Frequently the dried fruits are so prepared that they are anything but inviting. Much will depend upon the selection of these fruits. Purchase only the best grade. This fruit should be bright and waxy and not too dry. Soak for fifteen minutes in warm water; this loosens the dirt before washing. Now wash in plenty of water. Cover with water and allow to stand until the fruit has plumped out; each piece of fruit will only absorb just the amount of moisture as it originally contained.

This will require from six to twelve hours, depending entirely upon the dryness of the fruit. Be sure that the water covers the fruit at least one inch. Now, when the fruit is ready, add sugar to sweeten and place in the stove to cook. The slower this fruit is cooked the better. Remember that hard, rapid cooking not only spoils dried fruits, but fresh fruit as well.

When cooked tender, drain the liquid from the fruit and measure. Allow one-half cup of sugar to every three cups of juice. Place this juice and the sugar in a separate saucepan and boil until thick; then pour over the fruit.

Dried fruits prepared this way will be found to be delicious. Apricots will require very little cooking, so drain them free from the liquid in which they are soaked and add the sugar. Boil the syrup until thick and then pour over the apricots and cook gently for ten minutes.

Remove the skins from peaches, after soaking them, and before cooking add a little piece of thin orange peel for flavor.

To prepare dried pears soak them for twelve hours and then place in a casserole dish and add to one-half pound of fruit

One cup of brown sugar. Juice of one lemon, One cup of raisins.

Cover the casserole dish and bake slowly.

STEWED PEARS

Three-quarters cup of syrup, One-half cup of water, Six cloves, Piece of cinnamon and piece of lemon peel,

Peel and then cook slowly until tender, chill and serve.

CHICKEN AND GREEN PEPPER SANDWICHES

Remove the seeds from two green peppers and add one small onion and chop very fine. Mince one cup of chicken meat fine and add to the green peppers and onions and then season with

One teaspoon of salt, One-quarter teaspoon of mustard, One-half teaspoon of paprika, Two tablespoons of melted butter.

Mix well and then spread between thin slices of buttered bread.

BROILED CHICKEN, VIRGINIA STYLE

Select a plump broiler, weighing from one and a half to two pounds. Singe and then split with a sharp knife down the back. Draw. Remove the head and feet and then wash and parboil for eight minutes. Now flatten well with a rolling pin. Rub with shortening and broil for ten minutes. Garnish with bacon. Bacon or ham fat will give the bird a delicious flavor.

CHICKEN A LA KING

Cut the breast of cooked chicken into one-inch pieces and then place one and a half cups of thick sauce in a saucepan and add one cup of mushrooms that have been peeled and cut in pieces and then parboiled for six minutes in boiling water, and also

One green pepper, diced fine and parboiled,

Add

Yolks of two eggs, Juice of one-half lemon, One-quarter teaspoon of mustard, One and one-half teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika,

in the cream sauce. Also add the prepared chicken, the mushrooms and then green pepper. Heat until the boiling point is reached and then simmer slowly for ten minutes and serve on toast.

BREAST OF GUINEA HEN, TERRAPIN STYLE

Cut the breasts of two cooked guinea hens into one-inch blocks and place in a chafing dish and add

Three cups of thick cream sauce, One well-beaten egg, One-half teaspoon of mustard, One teaspoon of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, One large onion chopped very fine, Three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley, Juice of one large lemon, Grated rind of one-half lemon.

Stir to mix thoroughly and add the prepared breasts of the guinea hens and heat slowly until very hot. Serve on toasted waffles.

GUINEA HEN--POT PIE

Draw and singe the pair of guinea hens, removing the wings, thighs and legs and leaving the breast whole. Break the back of the carcass and then place in a deep saucepan and add seven cups of boiling water and steam slowly until tender. Add

A piece of carrot, One small onion, One branch of celery

for flavoring and then lift and set the thighs and breast aside for future use. Pick the meat from the back of the carcass and add to two and one-half cups of the stock. Season and thicken slightly. Now place the legs and wings in a casserole dish and add

One cup of peas, The prepared gravy, Four boiled onions.

Cover with a crust of plain pastry and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.

FRICASSEE CHICKEN