Chapter 18

To prepare the bread, soak stale bread in warm water until soft. Place in a cloth and then squeeze until very dry; then rub through a colander to remove the lumps. Fish cutlets are served with a menu, as follows:

SALMON CHARTREUSE

Open a can of salmon and then drain. Remove the skin and bones and flake with a fork. Soak three tablespoons of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water and then place in a saucepan

Two tablespoons of finely chopped onion, Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley, Two tablespoons of carrots, Faggot of soup herbs, Two cups of water.

Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Strain and then add

The juice of one-half lemon, One and one-quarter teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika,

and the dissolved gelatine.

Mix thoroughly and then cool and add the prepared salmon.

One tablespoon of grated onion, Three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley.

Pour into a mould that has been rinsed with cold water and chilled on ice. Set in a cool place to mould. When ready to serve unmould on a bed of lettuce and serve with Russian dressing. This may be prepared Saturday afternoon.

BROILED SALT MACKEREL, FLEMISH STYLE

Soak the mackerel overnight in plenty of cold water to cover, keeping the skin side up. In the morning remove the head and then wash and parboil. Drain and then place on a baking dish and spread lightly with bacon or ham fat and dust lightly with flour. Place in the broiler of the gas range and broil until nicely browned. Now, while the mackerel is cooking, prepare a Flemish sauce as follows:

One onion, One green pepper, Two branches of parsley.

Chop very fine and then place in a saucepan with three tablespoons of butter. Cover closely and steam until the vegetables are soft. Now add:

One tablespoon of vinegar, One teaspoon of sugar, One-half teaspoon of mustard, One teaspoon of pumpkin, Two tablespoons of boiling water.

Bring to a boil and pour over the fish. Garnish with cress.

SALT COD, VERMONT

Select a thick centre; cut and soak for one hour in warm water. Wrap in a piece of cheese-cloth and plunge into boiling water. Boil for fifteen minutes and then drain. Divide into four individual baking dishes and cover with cream sauce. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and a little grated onion, and bake for ten minutes in a hot oven.

MEATS

In order to purchase meats intelligently so that we will receive the best value for money expended, it is necessary to know the nature of the cuts, and especially the proportionate amounts of lean meat, fat and bone that they contain; also the approximate food values of the meat obtained from various parts of the carcass.

HIND QUARTERS

Loin steak average 57 per cent. lean, 33 per cent. visible fat, 10 per cent. bone. Sirloin steaks in general contain a larger percentage of lean meat and a smaller amount of fat than the porterhouse or club steaks.

Rib cuts contain 52 per cent. lean meat, 31 per cent. fat, 17 per cent. bone. The greatest percentage of lean meat is found in the sixth rib, and the smallest in the eleventh and twelfth rib cuts.

Round steaks are meat cut from the round. They average 67 per cent. lean meat, 20 per cent. fat and 16 per cent. bone. The round steaks contain 73 per cent. to 84 per cent. lean meat.

The rump contains 49 per cent. lean meat, the round as a pot roast contains about 86 per cent. lean meat; the largest percentage of fat is found in the rump roast. Soup bones contain from 8 per cent. to 60 per cent. lean meat.

THE FOREQUARTERS

The forequarters of beef contain the chuck, the shoulder, clod, neck and shank. The chuck contains 67 per cent. lean meat, 20 per cent. fat and 12 per cent. bone. Chuck steak varies from 60 per cent. to 80 per cent. lean and from 8 per cent, to 24 per cent. fat.

The clod or bolar cut contains 82 per cent. lean meat and 5 per cent. bone.

Relatively more lean and less fat meat is found in the chuck rib roast than in the cut from the prime rib roast.

The navel, brisket and rib ends average 52 per cent. lean meat, 40 per cent. fat and 8 per cent. bone. The brisket and navel cuts are similar in proportion, while the rib ends slightly higher in percentage of bone and less lean.

Flank steak contains 85 per cent. lean meat and 15 per cent. fat. Shank cuts or soup bones from the shank vary from 15 per cent. to 67 per cent. lean meat and from 25 per cent. to 76 per cent. bone, while the boneless shank, used for stews, goulashes, hashes and minces, contain 85 per cent. lean meat and 15 per cent. fat.

The trimmings from the loin, in steaks reduce their weights about 13 per cent. and these trimmings average 4.6 per cent. fat and 2 per cent. bone. Round steak is reduced about 7 per cent. in weight in trimmings, principally in fat; chuck steaks about 6-1/2 per cent., principally bone.

Rump, shoulder, pot roast and neck are all materially reduced in weight by fat and bone trimmings, the size and condition of the animal determining the actual amounts. The actual proportion of lean meat, fat and bone in the various cuts, their relative values of economy, fixes the prices to the consumer.

Taking the cuts of meat in their right order we have:

First, the neck for soup, stews and corning. The cost is very low and the waste is considerable.

Second, the chuck. This includes the entire shoulder and contains five ribs. The first two ribs are usually sold as shoulder, roast and steak, and while they are about the same quality as No. 9, they cost considerably less.

Third, the shoulder clod. This is part of the chuck and can be purchased in almost all markets. The price is low and there is no waste. It is used principally for steaks and pot roasts. When used for steaks, score the meat well.

Fourth, shank. According to the market price, this is the cheapest part of the beef. However, it contains 54 per cent. to 57 per cent. waste and requires long cooking. It is used for soups and stews.

Fifth, ribs. Contains eight ribs; five of these are the prime cuts and used for roasting exclusively.

Sixth, sirloin. The loin, some cuts contain as low as 3 per cent, waste. The sirloin is tender; therefore, quickly and easily cooked. For this reason it is one of the most popular cuts.

Seventh, porterhouse. This portion of the loin contains the choicest steaks, excellent and nutritious and easily cooked. The fillet or tenderloin forms a part of the loin and averages about 13 per cent. waste.

Eighth, rump. This cut is very nutritious, but requires careful cooking to render it tender; it contains slightly more waste than the round. Good steaks are obtained from the rump; it is also used for pot roast braising and coming.

Ninth, pin bone, the middle portion of the loin. It is of excellent quality, tender and of good flavor and quite as popular as the loin. It is the face cut of the rump.

Tenth, round. An inexpensive cut, containing only 7 per cent, waste. It is nutritious as tenderloin, but not as tender. The first essential in cooking is to sear the outside in order to retain the juices and then cook slowly until tender.

Steak and roast are cut from the round and the back or heel and is used for pot roast and stews.

One factor in helping to keep up the high prices of food is that the average woman, _when she goes to market, has in mind_ fancy price and choice cuts for roast, steaks and chops. The choice cuts represent about 26 per cent. of the whole carcass, leaving about 74 per cent. to be disposed of. Now, if this becomes difficult, the fancy cuts must bear the additional cost and so become proportionately high in price.

Take a cross cut of beef, weighing about six pounds and wipe with a damp cloth, and one-half cupful of flour patted into it and then brown quickly on both sides in a frying pan and then place in a fireless cooker or a moderate oven together with

Two medium-sized onions, One carrot, cut in quarters, One and one-half cups of boiling water,

and cook slowly, allowing one-half hour for the meat to start cooking and then twenty-five minutes to the pound. Baste frequently. If baked in the range it should give a delicious, well-flavored roast, that will supply the most finicky family with a good substantial food.

The bolar cut from the shoulder may be prepared the same way.

Meat from the neck and shin may be used for stews, goulashes and meat loaves.

POT ROAST OF SHIN BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE

Have the butcher cut a piece of beef from the upper part of the shin, with the bone in. Wipe with a damp cloth and then pat in one-half cupful of flour. Brown quickly on both sides and then lift to a deep saucepan and add

One large turnip, cut in quarters, One large carrot, cut in quarters, One faggot of soup herbs, One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram, Two cups of boiling water.

Cover closely and cook slowly until the meat is tender, allowing one-half hour for meat to start cooking and twenty-five minutes to the pound, counting the time when it is put into the kettle.

The plate and brisket may be used for soups, stews and goulashes and for corning. The brisket makes a splendid pot roast when boned and rolled. Also the plate or brisket may be used for à la mode.

The flank steak is a choice piece of lean, boneless meat that lies close to the ribs and weighs from one and three-quarters to two and one-half pounds. It may be used for steaks, if cut in slanting slices or for mock fillet or rolled or for hamburg steak.

When boiling or stewing meat, keep this in mind: Meat to be palatable and juicy must contain nutriment; it must be plunged into boiling water to seal the surface, by coagulating the albumen in the meat; and then it should be cooked just below the boiling point until tender, allowing one-half hour for the meat to heat and start cooking and then twenty-five minutes to the pound. Add salt just before removing from the fire.

Keep this fact in mind, that salt will, if added when the meat is just starting to cook, extract the juice.

For pot roast and braises, etc., it is necessary to quickly sear over the surface of the meat for the same reason that the meat was plunged into boiling water and then cook slowly, allowing the same proportion of time as for boiling or stewing.

The real object in cooking meat is to retain the juices and make it sufficiently to eat and increase its flavor.

BEEF STEW

Cut two and one-half pounds of stewing beef in two-inch pieces and then roll in flour and brown in hot fat; then add three pints of boiling water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for one hour; then place in a saucepan

Two cups of flour, One-half teaspoon of pepper, One teaspoon of salt, One tablespoon of baking powder.

Rub between the hands to mix and then add three-quarters cup of cold water to form a dough. Make into balls between the hands and then drop into the stew. Cover closely and boil fast for twelve minutes. Now remove the lid and cook for three minutes longer. Then season and serve.

TO PREPARE FISH FOR FRYING

Remove the head, fins and bones, using them for the fish stock. Place fillets in a dish and marinate for one hour in

Three tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar, Two tablespoons of salad oil, Two tablespoons of grated onion, One teaspoon of salt, One teaspoon of paprika.

Then roll lightly in flour and dip into beaten egg, then in fine crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat.

GRILLED FISH

Sea trout, striped bass or other fish may be used. Clean and bone the fish and then place in baking dish and spread freely with salad oil. Broil for twelve minutes in broiler of the gas range or bake for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve with a fish sauce prepared as follows:

Chop fine

Four onions, Three large tomatoes, Two green peppers.

Now chop two ounces of salt pork or fat bacon very fine and place in a skillet and cook until nicely browned. Add the finely chopped onions and tomatoes and green pepper and cook slowly until the vegetables are soft. Then season with

One-half teaspoon of sugar, One teaspoon of salt, One-half teaspoon of white pepper, Juice of one-half lemon.

Mix thoroughly and serve with the fish.

FISH LOAF

Prepare a sauce as follows:

Place in a saucepan

One cup of milk, Five tablespoons of flour.

Stir with a fork until the flour is dissolved and then bring quickly to a boil. Cook three minutes and then remove and pour into a mixing bowl, and add

Two cups of cold-boiled fish, One cup of cold-boiled rice, One cup of stale bread, prepared as for fish cutlet, Four tablespoons of shortening (finely chopped salt pork if desired), One large onion, One large green pepper, Six branches of parsley, minced very fine, One tablespoon of paprika, One-half teaspoon of mustard, One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram, One egg.

Beat hard to thoroughly mix and then pour into a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Place this pan in a larger one containing hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Serve with a sauce made as follows:

Two cups of stewed tomatoes, Four onions, chopped fine, One green pepper, chopped fine.

Cook until onions and peppers are soft and then rub through a coarse sieve. Now add

One-half cup of water, Three tablespoons of cornstarch, Two teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of sugar, One-half teaspoon of pepper, Pinch of cloves.

Mix well and then pour into tomato mixture. Stir well until the boiling point is reached and then cook three minutes. Add two tablespoons of butter and serve.

BROILED BASS

Have the fish dealer split the bass for broiling, then wash and pat dry with a paper napkin and cover the cut surface of the fish with salad oil. Place on a baking sheet and broil in the broiler of the gas range until nicely browned; then set in the oven for five minutes to finish cooking.

CREAM FINNAN HADDIE

Cover the fish with cold water and then bring to a boil. Drain and cover with cream sauce. Now add:

One green pepper, chopped fine, One onion grated, Five tablespoons of finely chopped parsley, Two tablespoons of butter.

Simmer slowly for ten minutes to cook the herbs; then lift to the toast.

LONG ISLAND SOUND COCKTAIL

Place in a bowl

One-half bottle of tomato catsup, One tablespoon of grated onion, Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley, One tablespoon of finely minced green pepper, One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, One-half teaspoon of mustard.

Mix well and then take the clam shells and scrub them clean. Fill with a mixture as follows:

One cup of cold-boiled fish, One onion, chopped fine, One green pepper, chopped fine.

Mix well. Make a well in the centre and fill with a sauce. Dust with paprika and serve ice cold.

FILET FISH, SOUTHERN STYLE

Clean, wash and drain fish. Do not dry. Have fat smoking hot. Place fish in pan, reduce heat and cook slowly until brown and crisp.

FISH CAKES

Boil fifteen large potatoes and then mash fine and add

One-half pound of prepared shredded codfish, One egg, Lump of butter the size of an egg, One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix thoroughly and then form into balls. Roll in flour and fry until golden brown in hot fat.

COLD SPICE TONGUE

Select a medium-sized tongue without the gullet and wash well; then soak for four hours in warm water. Place in a deep saucepan and cover with warm water and add

One carrot, cut in dice, Two onions sliced, One faggot of soup herbs, Two bay leaves, Two allspice, Four cloves, One cup of strong cider vinegar.

Cover closely and bring to a boil; then simmer and keep just below the boiling point for three hours. Let cool in the liquid and then, when cold, chill in the ice box before slicing.

The coarse left-over parts of the tongue may be used for meat loaf, croquettes or hash.

PICKLED TRIPE

Cut one pound of cooked honeycomb tripe in pieces one inch by three inches. Place in a casserole dish and add

One cup of vinegar, One-half cup of water, One onion, cut fine, One teaspoon of salt, One-half teaspoon of white pepper, One bay loaf, Eight cloves, Ten allspices, One small red pepper pod.

Cover and bake in hot oven for thirty minutes and then cool.

BAKED HAM, VIRGINIA

Scrub a small ham and cook until tender. The fireless cooker will prevent the ham from wasting while cooking. When tender, lift and remove the skin. Trim to shape and then place in a bowl

Three-quarters cup of brown sugar, One-quarter cup of cinnamon, One teaspoon of nutmeg, One teaspoon of cloves, One teaspoon of allspice.

Mix thoroughly and then pat and rub into the ham. Place in a hot oven and bake for forty minutes, basting frequently with one-half cupful of water and one-half cupful of vinegar.

CORN BEEF HASH

Cut the cooked meat into one-half inch cubes and place in a saucepan and add to each cup of meat

One and one-half cups of pared and diced potatoes, One-half cup of finely chopped onions, One cup of boiling water.

Cover closely and steam until meat and potatoes are tender and the water is evaporated; then season. Now melt three tablespoons of shortening in an iron frying pan and when hot turn in the hash, forming an omelet shape in half the pan. When nicely browned, turn the hash with a cake turner, still keeping the omelet shape, and brown. Turn on a hot platter and garnish with finely chopped parsley.

BROWN POT ROAST OF SHIN BEEF

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and then pat into it one-half cup of flour. Now heat the bacon fat left from cooking the bacon for breakfast in a saucepan and place in the meat. Brown quickly, turning frequently until every part is nicely browned; then add two cups of water and cover closely and cook slowly for one hour. Now add

Four medium-sized carrots, Four medium-sized onions.

Season and cover again and cook slowly until the meat and vegetables are tender, usually about thirty-five minutes. Now add sufficient water to make one and three-quarter cups of gravy.

Prepare the dumpling as follows: Place one quart of boiling water in a saucepan and add one teaspoon of salt. Place in a mixing bowl

One and one-half cups of flour, One teaspoon of salt, One-quarter teaspoon of pepper, Two teaspoons of baking powder, One onion, grated, One teaspoon of shortening.

Mix thoroughly and then add one-half cup of water. Form to a dough and drop by the teaspoonful into the boiling water. Cover the saucepan closely and cook for fifteen minutes; then lift on a warm dish and place the dumpling as a border around the platter. Lift the meat and vegetables in the centre and pour the gravy over all.

VIRGINIA SAUCE

Strain the liquid from the pan in which the ham was baked and add one-half cupful of flour. Brown well and then add

Two and one-half cups of the liquid from the pan, One cup of vinegar, One-half cup of syrup, Two teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, One-half teaspoon of nutmeg.

Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Now strain into a gravy bowl and serve.

PORK TENDERLOIN

One and a half pounds of pork tenderloins will make eight nice-sized fillets. Place on a platter and baste with

One small onion, minced fine, Three tablespoons of lemon juice, Two tablespoons of salad oil, One teaspoon of salt, One teaspoon of paprika.

Turn the fillet to marinate and when ready to cook lift and roll lightly in flour and then dip in beaten egg and then into fine bread crumbs. Cook until golden brown in hot fat.

ROAST FRESH HAM

Select a small baby pig ham and have the butcher bone and then leave space for the filling. Wipe with a damp cloth and then prepare and fill with highly seasoned bread crumbs. Tie into shape and then dust with flour and place in a baking dish and put in a hot oven to brown. Then reduce the heat and baste frequently with hot water, allowing the ham thirty minutes to start and the meat cooking thirty minutes to the pound after that. When ready to serve, lift to a warm platter and garnish with parsley or water-cress and serve with Virginia sauce. Place one medium-sized apple in with the ham to bake.

BRAISED ROLLED FLANK STEAK

Have the butcher score and trim the steak. Now soak sufficient stale bread in cold water to soften. Press dry and then rub through a fine sieve. Measure and place two cupfuls in the mixing bowl and add

Four tablespoons of shortening, One cup of finely chopped onions, One bunch of potherbs, chopped fine, One level tablespoon of salt, One level teaspoon of pepper.

Mix well and then spread on a steak and roll. Tie securely with a stout string and then pat three-quarters cup of flour into the meat. Melt four tablespoons of shortening in a deep saucepan and when smoking hot add the prepared meat. Brown the meat, turning frequently, and then, when nicely brown, add one cupful of boiling water and simmer slowly, allowing the meat one-half hour to start cooking and thirty minutes to the pound. Add four large onions and when ready to lift one cup of boiling water for gravy. Usually this gravy requires no thickening.

PLANKED STEAK

Have the butcher cut the steak in two and one-half inch thicknesses from the large end of the sirloin. Remove the flank end and then the tenderloin, also taking out the bones. The butcher will do this for you. Now, when ready to prepare the steak, soak the plank in cold water for one hour. Heat the broiler and then place the plank in the oven. Cook the steak until quite rare in the broiler and then lift to a hot plank. Prepare a border of mashed potatoes and put them in a pastry bag, forced out around the edge of the plank. Garnish and smother with onions and minced green peppers. Place in a hot oven for ten minutes. Use the tenderloin for minute steaks. Hamburg the flank and serve hamburg steaks.

LIVER AND BACON, CREOLE

Have the butcher cut the liver in thin slices. Wipe with a clean damp cloth and then roll in flour and brown in hot fat. Now add

One cup of stewed tomatoes, One and one-half cups of thinly sliced onions, Two green peppers, chopped fine.

Cover closely and cook for five minutes, then add

Two tablespoons of cornstarch, One and one-half teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, One-quarter teaspoon of mustard, One-half cup of cold water.

Dissolve the starch and spices well and then bring the mixture to a boil and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Now place mashed potatoes on a large platter, shaping them flat on top. Lay the slices of liver on and then pour over them the sauce and garnish with nicely brown strips of bacon. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve.

CHOP SUEY

Slice sufficient meat from the cold roast of pork. Now cut in half-inch blocks and place in a pan and add

One cup of celery, cut in dice, One green pepper, minced fine, Four onions, minced fine, One cup of finely shredded cabbage, One and one-half cups of thick brown sauce, Two teaspoons of salt, One teaspoon of pepper, One teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce.

Heat slowly to the boiling point and cook until the celery and cabbage are tender and then make a border around a large hot platter of cooked noodles and lift on the chop suey. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and serve.

NOTE.--Make the brown sauce from the left-over gravy and bones making a stock.

DELMONICO ROAST BEEF

Have the butcher cut the seventh and eighth rib from a roast, removing the chine bone. Now have him remove the blade and meat between it and the skin, cutting off the top of the ribs. This gives you a heart-shaped piece of very tender beef. It is really the eye of these two ribs. Place the roast in a pan and dust lightly with flour, and then place in a hot oven for thirty minutes to start cooking. Now reduce the heat and cook, allowing twenty minutes to the pound, counting the time from the minute you reduce the heat.